 Hey you guys welcome back to week five of the royal wedding sew along. Today we are going to be talking all about the skirt. So the skirt pieces are the same no matter whether you're making view A, B, C, or D. It just depends on the length. So I have prepared mine for the shortest length which is technically the cutting line for view C. But if you're making any of the other views just use the cutting line for whatever view you want. You remember we talked a couple weeks ago about the pattern layout. So all of my bodice pieces were cut out from here and then I moved all the fabric up and I've got my three skirt pieces on the fabric now. So we have the skirt front which is placed on the center front then we have the skirt side front placed kind of toward the edge and then down here we have the skirt back. And you really need to pay attention to the grain lines. Remember if you're not using a border print fabric you can pretty much ignore the grain lines for view A and B and do like I have and only follow the grain lines for view C and D. And you can see here that the grain lines for view C and D are not necessarily parallel to either edge of the pattern piece. What's going to happen is this edge here is going to get sewn on here so it's cut that way so that the pattern kind of continues up and around your body. It's really actually a well designed pattern layout for a skirt and then the skirt back is here. And again I'm kind of ignoring the grain lines for view A and B and only using the ones for view C and D. But it is a very large pattern piece and if you're making one that's any longer than this one then you are going to need to cut your fabric on a single layer and you're not going to be able to cut it folded over like this. You'll have to cut it two times each on a single layer just to get it all to fit. Alright so I've got all my skirt pieces cut out and now I need to transfer all of these markings to the fabric. These are going to tell us where our pleats go. Each of the skirt pieces have them so the easiest way I find to do it I mean there's like a ton of ways to do it but I like this tracing paper so you can see here it's like blue and you fold it around your fabric so that the blue side is facing the wrong side of the fabric on both sides and then it comes with either a flat I'm sorry flat um little rotary tool or one that's like serrated so that you can just press gently along the line and it will transfer the mark to the pattern piece for you nice and simple so I'm going to do that transfer all the marks to the skirt pieces um and then I also need to clip all the notches um you guys know how to clip notches and then you're going to want to transfer these um circle the large circles to your fabric as well in the same manner that we did for the bodice pieces in the two previous videos this is where our pocket is going to go so that's why you have to mark that and then once we get all this stuff transferred we ready to sew the skirt together so I'll be back for that all right so here are all of our gorgeous skirt pieces and remember the skirt on this pattern is not lined um so we have to take a few minutes tedious tedious minutes and finish all of the raw edges so you can surge them you can zig zag stitch on the edge you can turn them under and stitch um there are lots of options for you there but you have to do all of them now um because we're getting ready to attach the um pockets and once you attach the pockets to the side seams it's very very difficult to finish the raw edges at that point so I like to go ahead and just get it taken care of so yeah you're going to finish this edge you're going to finish this edge on all four pocket pieces I know I warned you it's tedious um both raw edges here both raw edges here both raw edges here both raw edges here and then thankfully this one's on the fold you can skip that but both raw edges here it is a lot so obviously if this is not for you and quite honestly if I didn't have a serger I definitely wouldn't do it this way um but you could in theory create a lined skirt you just cut out all of these same pieces out of your lining fabric um and then sew the skirt and the lining the same way um attach the lining to the lined bodice and attach the main fabric to the main bodice and attach them together as you normally would but I'm staying true to the pattern in this regard and I kind of like an online skirt it's hot humid here so as much you know airflow as we can get um the better so I am going to go tackle all of that I'll be back in 14 days three hours and 22 minutes okay I've got all my side seams surged say that five times fast um as well as the pocket bags all surged on all sides except for the top um and now I have also um attached the side front to the front and pressed that seam open very beautiful um because our our um raw edges are already finished okay so now we are going to start making our pleats and we have some solid lines from when have we traced um from our pattern pieces and we also have some broken lines and so you're going to on the right side of the fabric basically I'll need two hands to do it so you'll have to just kind of work with me here but basically you're going to find that solid line and you were going to pinch it up um on the right side and you're going to match it up to the um dotted line and you're going to do that on every occasion that there is a solid and a dotted line like on the back pieces there are two so there's another one somewhere around here um and I'll do this obviously more precisely when I'm not filming but and then you want to pull it up and over to the um dotted line and then once you've got those in place something similar to that you need to take um some pins and you're going to pin down vertically um down the pleat that you have just made so you'll have some pins stuck in vertically there boop boop boop um all the way down that line and I like to use these all metal pins that don't have a um like a plastic ball on the end because that way when you take this garment um to your ironing board you can press over the pins and there won't be any issues of melting or anything and you can press everything beautifully in place um and so like a basting stitch along this line to hold everything down so pleats are all done I love this part they are really really gorgeous I did want to mention that on the center front pleat you're actually going to overlap them ever so slightly so that at your seam line the two pleats match up perfectly and then flow from there so there isn't like a little gap in between them um you have to overlap it within the seam allowance um so that that point is perfect at your seam line okay um so now that we are done with all of that pleating my back pieces are done too we are going to start attaching the pockets and so remember I told you that I like to do two of the pocket pieces in lining fabric and two of them in self fabric um so you have to pay a bit of attention um when you're attaching them because you want to make sure that you don't see the lining part so the lining part has to be attached has to be attached okay um has to be attached to the front pieces and the self fabric part has to be attached to the back pieces and that is if you can visualize with me um when you attach your um back pieces here and you know you've got your side seam and you go to put your hand in your pocket um the part that is going to be touching your body needs to be the self fabric if that's hard for you to visualize don't worry I'll show you as we continue getting this made but um it's very simple to attach these pockets um I'm just following the same instructions in the instruction booklet so you can refer to that but basically you're going to you know stitch these to all four side seams and then you're going to place the back pieces right sides together on top of the um front pieces um and at that point your pockets will be pressed out like so and so then you'll just sew around them like this all the way down and that will create your side seam but leave your pocket opening so just follow the instruction super simple all right she's all sewn up isn't it beautiful um okay so this is what I was talking about with the pockets so when you attach the self fabric to the back piece and the lining to the front piece when you go to put your hand in you will see the self fabric and not the lining fabric so that's all I was trying to say I guess technically this would be like a lot this would be a pocket facing I don't know if you want to look at it that way or not but just remember to put the um back piece the what am I saying um just remember to put the self fabric on the back piece and the lining on the front piece and then you'll never have any like peek-a-boo moments with your lining okay so now we've gotten all this I'm gonna do something a little unconventional and I'm gonna go ahead and hem the skirt too um simply because this is a very full skirt and we've got a lot of bodice going on especially the pleated version so just to have like a little bit less fabric at the machine trying to handle it I'm gonna go ahead and hem it um I only recommend this if you are very confident that the length of your skirt is where you want it to be if you made a muslin um with the skirt or if you used the um information on the back of the pattern that says link from base to base of neck um if you measure that and you know that that's a good length for you then go ahead and hem it also if you're making the one with the border print you can shorten that at this point you're stuck with how long it is so you can go ahead and hem it too so I'm gonna go ahead and do that I'm gonna play around with my blind hem foot um this is quite a bit of a circle though and it is like you know this edge is curved so I'm not 100 confident I'm gonna be able to get it that way but I'm gonna try so I will report back on the best method to hem this gigantic 15 mile long skirt hem okay there we have it our skirt is completely assembled um including the pleats that are gorgeous the inseam pockets which are great and I was even able to do the blind hem on the skirt it's not that rounded at all you shouldn't have any issues doing any hem you want um either turning under twice um or surging and turning under whatever you want um but can you even see my stitches I hemmed and hawed about changing the thread to red but I don't know I just thought that there was still some white and I didn't know if the red would show more on the white than the white would show on the red so I left it out so you guys tell me I mean obviously no one's going to be that close to me or my hem I hope not um anyways so but I mean full disclosure if you want to see there's like millimeters of it um I will I will say on a solid color fabric blind hem foot all the way and this is what it looks like on the inside so I did end up surging the hem and flipping it under um and then those extra stitches are what makes up the blind hem one more small detail is that I just wanted to point out that I did not sew up any of the center back um we'll talk more about this when we go to install the zipper but for me it's easier to install the zipper um when when it's not sewn together at any point um so I'll show you the method that I prefer for the zipper in a couple of weeks but for now we've got a bodice um and we've got a skirt so next week we will get to work on the linings oh did I already say this I can't remember what I've said and what I haven't the skirts are the exact same for both versions so whether you're making ab or cd you'll use this method to make your skirt okay so next week is the linings and we'll go over both linings in one video in one week so I'll see you all back here then thank you bye