 Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noah Reyes. I'm a designer here at Adafruit and join me every week is my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro's creative tech here at Adafruit. And every week we're here to share three printed projects teaching electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody. Welcome to the show. If you'd like to join us during the live show, you can drop some comments down in the Discord chat room. If you'd like to get an invite code to the Discord chat room, the URL for that is discord.gg slash Adafruit. Welcome, everybody. We'll take a moment to welcome everybody to the live broadcast chat room while we get things sorted here, like our audio. Okay. Feel free to add your GIFs and GIFs and your memes in the Discord as we sort through this. All right. We'll start off with Pedro. You want to do any shout outs? Hello, Dew Wester. Good morning, Yanni. Good morning, Andy Calloway. Rosyn and Susan. Good morning to y'all. We're hanging out at discord.gg slash Adafruit. So go ahead and check that out. We're also hanging out on the Facebook, on the YouTube, on the LinkedIn, and on Periscope. Good morning, cup of coffee. I need another cup of coffee. I don't have time to make coffee. Sorry. Wirecast decided that... You're making a robot coffee maker. You disconnect your Bluetooth headphones from them automatically connected to your computer and everything crashes. Don't ever. You have Bluetooth audio. It's like that Jenga piece that you remove and everything just falls. But we got it all back together in a minute. What a great operating system. In a minute. Hello, Dad Batty. Wow, that's cool. Very cool. Is that SLA? SLS? Yeah, very cool GIF. Definitely check out the chat room from that. Cool. Awesome. Let's go ahead and start up the show. We've got a really cool project. Let's go ahead and start off with housekeeping. Sure. Yeah, so you get some free stuff. If you order more things from Adafruit, we'll start off with orders that are $99 or more. You'll get a half size from a Proto. That's that lovely breadboard PCB with three-hole plating and lovely power and ground rails. If you spend $149 or more, you'll get the half size from a Proto plus an Adafruit KB2040. That's that keyboard driver that can run CircuitPython Arduino and more. And if you spend $200 or more, you'll get the KB2040, the half size from a Proto, and free ground shipping. And then we got a new one for orders that are $299 or more. You get the ground shipping. You get the KB2040, the half size from a Proto. And let me catch my breath. The Circuit Playground Express. They're back in stock. I think we got our chips from microchip. We bagged nicely. We asked them nicely. They gave us our Sandy 21 chips. That was amazing. Okay. Headin' over to the jobs board at jobs.adafruit.com. This is where you can see some maker gigs available for folks. If you are a maker looking for some maker gigs and you want to throw up your skills and your profile, it's free to do so, you can make an account and register. Hassle free. I think I can say that. We got a couple of gig listings here. The latest one is a science kit builder from MicroKits in the Charlottesville, Virginia area. That's a part-time gig. So check those out. There's many more here that are still ongoing. So if you are in the market for a new gig or you are a maker looking for more makers, check out jobsadafruit.com. All right. We have a newsletter that's focused on the products that are added on the weekly to the Adafruit shop. You can go to adafruit.com. Slash newsletter and subscribe to that email. Also, check out adafruitdaily.com for daily doses of content. You can subscribe to specific categories such as the Python on microcontrollers newsletter. Shout out to everybody for subscribing to that one and sending your stories to the team. And shout out to Ann Barela for still doing this awesome job of gathering all the weekly news for Python on microcontrollers. Check it out. I also want to give a shout out to Paul Cutler for the Circuit Python Show podcast. This week we have a new guest. So check him out. The Nick Toll who worked on Mew, the Mew editor. So check that one out. If you want to hear more about Nick toll. All right. I think we're all through with the housekeeping. Jump back over and see some gifts. Look at that. DJ Devon 3 has got a nice one. And Yanni's got a nice one too. All right. Let's go ahead and jump into this awesome project for this week. Cool. Yay. This week's project is an IR LED remote. This owl is disguised as a remote. There's a little 3D printed owl. Shout out to Lamar for the idea on this one. I have a TV and I lost the remote. So I wanted to make a remote for my TV. And there is a library in Circuit Python that makes it easy to do so. Shout out to Liz Clark for putting the code together for this one. It uses the IR LEDs to transmit an IR pulse signal. So I'm controlling a TV, but IR LEDs are like this one here from this remote. So this is a little remote that controls this light bar. And we were able to capture the pulses from the remote with this guy here. This is an IR receiver. So we can capture pulses. And let's do a demo. Shall we? Hopefully this works. So I got my LED bar and I'll use the LED arcade button to send a pulse. It did not work. It's working now. It's a line of sight thing because that's how IR LEDs work. I don't know where the IR LEDs is probably approximately. But it worked. Very cool. Turn it off. Turn it on. Turn it off. Turn it back on. So we can, although it's just doing one signal, we're actually kind of doing two. It's toggling between on and off. And if you look at the remote, on and off are very different pulses. So you can, in the Moo editor, you can go into debugging mode and capture a pulse from a remote and then copy that array of pulses and pop it into the code. That's kind of how this is working. So let me talk a little bit about the OWL. So the OWL is a 3D printed no supports required thing. And it's got a couple of features. So we have this little plug here that is removable. And we made this giant openings just so that we can access the components in here such as the LED arcade button. It has a hex nut that gets panel mounted to the top here. And then the case is a snap fit dili. So we have the cover attached to the OWL. The OWL has these built in tabs, these mounting holes. And then we're using screws and hex nuts to secure them together. And there's that we have some JST connectors. This just makes it easy so we can disconnect the various components like the LED from the button and the switch from the button. The LEDs are wired in series and they're also hooked up with these connectors. So the main board here is the QT Pi with the RP2040 chip. It's kind of like the most readily available chip. It can run circuit Python and it's running circuit Python. We have it fitted onto a quarter size from a proto PCB. That way we can share a lot of power and grounds because you get tons of power and ground signals. And it makes it modular so I can actually pop out the QT Pi and use it in another project. Which is a good thing when you have a chip shortage and you're running out of boards you can always salvage your board and take it out and it's not soldered in place. Let me disconnect it from USB and actually show that it comes off like that. So there's your QT Pi RP2040. Very, very small package with a ton of goodies. You also have a stem connector right there so if you wanted to do some ice grid C sensors it's easy to connect to that. And these are those short headers and then we have some female short headers here. So let me put this back in. Cool. The frame is also a snap fit. You can see that the IR LED, I mean the IR receiver is press fitted through this little thing here. So that's how that's working. Everything's pretty modular, nothing's really glued together so you can kind of swap out parts as you need. Yeah, the... What can I say? I'm running out of things to say. Yeah, it's a nice snap fit case. It's not battery powered because it's meant to be plugged into the wall so you have access to the USB-C there. It's a little bit of a process to get your cable in there. It's probably easier to just do it this way. That's why snap fits are great. I didn't want to have this board come too close because there's a screw there. So those are all kind of design considerations when you're making a thing like this. And if it's going to be on your desk or wherever on a tabletop you're probably not going to disconnect it so that's why I kind of did that way. But yeah, it's still accessible. Cool, so that's kind of the project in a nutshell. You can do all sorts of fun creative things with electronics. This was a lot of fun to put together. Again, shout out to Liz and Lamar for kind of coming up with the idea and writing the code for it. But yeah, we have a learned guy. We'll go ahead and take a look at that real quick. But if there's any questions, I'll go ahead and take a look. We have some owl gifts, no doubt. Liz says that owls are not what they seem. This was supposed to be a reference to... Man, what movie was it? Twin Peaks. Twin Peaks. There's an owl that... Is it surveying? I'm not sure. I need to watch Twin Peaks. Post down what the references to that list, please. Sure. Find out. And then someone's saying, did you check the cash cushions for the remote? So when you have kids they somehow figure out how to open up a black hole and your stuff is forever lost. Yeah. The TV was a little bit of a different thing. Oh yeah. So when you're buying a house and it says fully furnished, you know what that means. There's missing remotes. Is it too close or what? Oh yeah. I don't know where the sensor for that actually is. I think what you're looking at here is the PIR. So when you walk close... Hey dude, the battery's finally died. Oh wow. How about that one? That's good for a demo. Yeah. That's awesome. You guys got to see it working. And it's got... Oh yeah. You can charge yourself. Put the thing in. That's not going to work. Put it over here. Quickly grab. Yeah. Here's this. And then the battery. You should have one of those lipstick ones. You could just plug it into my computer. Make it be fine. So there it goes. Recharge when we walk through the leg guide, huh? Oh man. Okay. If we head over to learn.atifruit.com and let it load, you can see the learn guides up. It got published this morning. So check that out if you are interested in building it. Or if you just want to learn more about the QDPI working with IR sensors or learning all about LEDs. We have some pre-requisite guides that will walk you through that. So here's a handful of parts that are used in the project. The QDPI RP2040 is in stock and just about everything else is in stock as well. So yay. That's kind of a challenge to do these days. So yeah. A bunch of other odd bits, such as the rubber feet, hardware kit, you know, for the M3 screws, through-hole resistor for the LEDs. We got everything in stock. So that's awesome. Glad to see that. So that's the homepage. The CAD files are in the CAD files page. You can see a little 3D explosion of all the parts. This owl, we designed it in Fusion 360. It's a bit of a parametric model. You can change it up if you'd like. We have 3D models of the QDPI and the quarter-size promo proto, as well as the LED and the arcade button. All those models are accessible and downloadable from our GitHub repository at github.com.com. You can just search for CAD parts and download them. You can download them. We have them in different formats, such as a step STL in the Fusion 360. But you can download them. They're all hosted here on learn.aidafruit.com. You can download the STLs or the CAD source, such as the step file or the Fusion 360 file. And we also have a link here to that GitHub repo that I was talking about. And here's the QDPI spinning and looking great with all the components populated. Oh, you're going to need a 3D. If you do want to print the owl, you need a minimum build volume of at least 100 by 100 by 120. I obviously upped the, because it says 95 by 95. If you're doing like a bram or a skirt, you always want to have a little bit more extra room. So if you have a printer that's like 100 by 100 by 150, it should be pretty good. So there you go. So the circuit diagram, we put this together with the Fritzing app. We have a library. It has a library of Fritzing parts. If you want to put together your own wiring diagram, you can kind of drag and drop various components and use the wiring stuff to make connections. So it's pretty fun. So check that out. All the wired connections are broken out here for accessibility purposes in text format. So that's cool. I actually usually have this on my phone or print it out on paper and reference it because there's a little bit of wired connections here. And although you could, you know, daisy chain all the grounds together, for example, it's nice to not have to do that. So the Promo Proto really saved it for this one. And I like the modularity aspect of it. And yeah, shout out to this section for that idea. You should probably put it on the Promo Proto. I was like, yeah, that's good. Yeah. Okay, cool. Let's check it out. Circuit Python page walks you through installing Circuit Python on the QDPie RP2040. It's fairly easy to do so. You use the reset and the boot button to get into the bootloader mode. And then you download a UF2 file from the link, this little green button here. And then you literally just drag and drop that UF2 file onto the USB flash drive that shows up when you get into bootloader mode. Automatically flashes it and restarts and you're ready to go. This is just extra code if you want extra documentation on knowing about the LED statuses and entering safe mode and reflashing. So that's really nice. It's very, very thorough. But once you have your QDPie set up, you can get the code. We recommend using the download project bundle. When you click on that, you get a zip file and you get two versions of the code. One in Circuit Python 8, which is the super latest. And then Circuit Python 7, which is stable release. Pick one, whichever one you have, whichever one you've installed. You can just use that one. In this case, we're using Circuit Python 8. But what's cool is along with the zip file, you get the libraries built into it. So that's really nice. You don't have to hunt. You don't have to hunt for libraries. So please use the project bundle and the code will work with those libraries. Because a lot of time I'll install the libraries at a date or not up to date. So it's nice to have the project bundle. Yeah, so shout out to Liz. She did a great job on the code and commenting it out so folks can change it up. Here you can see these are the arrays for all the pulses that we receive. So doing one button press gives you a whole bunch of these arrays. So it's kind of weird like that. But that's how it is. And then for powering off, it's a different set of values. Now if you have something that is just a single array, I guess you could just populate it twice because in the code it's kind of toggling between the two. And then you can change the new pixel colors here. Right now we have red and green, but you can change it to whatever RGB value you want. And you can change the brightness. And what else could you change? I guess it's really all you want to change, right? I mean if you want to do like a little animation or something for each one. Not needed. Yeah, you could do that. That's right. Yeah, you could trigger an animation when you press the button. That'd be cool. Right now we just have it on and off colors. I'm guessing for accessibility type stuff. You know, you have trouble seeing colors or something. Maybe you can see like the flashing animation or something like that. Sure, yeah. Cool. But yeah, it's all there and up on GitHub as well. If you want to view the code on GitHub, there's a link right here. View on GitHub. You can do a PR if you'd like or just kind of copy it. But yeah, it's on GitHub. It's hosted there. Nice. All right. The next section just kind of walks you through verifying that you have all the files installed correctly onto your circuit Python drive. This is pretty much one of my favorite features to circuit Python. It shows up like a flash drive. I kind of forget to say that. And like all the code and assets are just there. And whatever computer you plug it into, it's there. You can't do that with other dev boards like an Arduino code. Like you plug it in and the computer's like, huh, you're something. Oh, you need a copy of that code? Sorry. Code is one to zero. I don't see it. So anyway, circuit Python, it's amazing for that for rapid development and development with accessibility in mind. So you can use whatever text editor to modify the code. There's some more documentation that the list puts together for decoding your pulses. We have a dedicated guide on using the new editor and the serial console. You basically want to walk through this guide and you can capture pulses this way. So this just walks you through step by step using your I remote to decode the values from the remote. And this just walks you through it. And then at some point you get this nice long array of values that you can copy and paste into the code. So check that out. Shout out to Ann for putting this one together. I think Ann did a couple of different guides, too, for a full say over this one's from Lady. Shout out to both of them. Shout outs. Okay. There's a little bit of note on how the code works. So check it out. Yeah. You can read it and change it up as you like. Okay. Next up I'm going to walk through quickly some of the things. When we're doing learn guides, depending on how much wiring there is, we tend to split it up into segments. So originally I was going to just do one big page, but there's a lot of wiring, so I broke it up into sections. So this page will walk you through setting up the headers for your Qtpie and your promo proto. The next page walks you through wiring up the LEDs. You have a resistor as well in line that goes into the ground wire. So we do a little bit of sharing pins here just to kind of make it easier. And then we end up soldering a two-pin JST cable to the two wires that are coming off of those two IR LEDs. And then we solder up the resistor to the ground wire that's coming off of the ground connection. And then we end up with this kind of like spaghetti-looking monster with two IR eyes. The eyes for our owl. All right. Wiring up the button. I'm using two more JST connectors. There's a little bit of a note here just to know which, because there's two sets of terminals. One for the LED and one for the switch. They're separate, so we just walk through wiring that up. So the next page wires up the IR receiver. There's just three wires to it. Follow the circuit diagram for the correct pins. Pin one is signal, pin two is ground, and pin three is voltage. I remembered. And then wiring up the promo proto is the next page. So you just kind of walk through soldering up all those JST connectors and the IR receiver to the various pins. All in two assembly. We got some hex nuts. We got some M3 screws. We attached the cover to the owl. I'm very happy that I made an opening in the owl, because boy, God, it was hard to... With the first owl, I didn't have an opening in the back, and I was struggling with tweezers. It's a ship and a bottle. It's a ship and a bottle, yeah. So with that opening in the back, it really makes it accessible. So there's various... Whenever you have to panel on anything, you always want to have access to your thing. I thought about different things like cutting the head off and then having the head screw in and all these convoluted ideas. And it ended up just being as simple as let's make a giant hole in the back. And then we'll print a little thing to plug it up if you want to cover it up. But yeah, your hand can fit through there and your fingers and everything can fit in there. Just fine. The LEDs are fitted from the inside because of just the way the body of the LED has a bit of a flange. And that flange kind of stops it from being pressed in all the way. So that's what we're doing from the inside. It's quite funny when you take the LEDs out. You have to kind of like... Like you're murdering this owl. It's quite scary. Like you're drilling that? Just pop it. Anyway, the panel mounted button... Gosh, the LED button is panel mounted. That means you have to install it from the top and then you use the hex nut from the inside to secure it in place. I'm really happy with the geometry on the inside. I did a custom revolve around... Man, it's gonna be hard to see it so I might switch to CAD mode. But not really. If only we had a light that we can shine. Let's see if it can... Alright, see that? It's so dark in there. You can't see. Anyway, I made a... So that the lining here is at a 45 degree angle so there's no overhangs going on there. There's a little bit of an overhang here but the printer's able to catch it because it has active cooling. Most printers have active cooling these days. But yeah, all of this geometry is nicely... Nicely drafted. The angle is at 45 degrees. Or maybe it's 30 degrees. Doesn't matter. It's not 90 so that's a good thing. And it makes it so you don't need any support. So, very cool. Yeah, so the rest of the assembly... You're just kind of... Securing the permit product to the bottom cover. Press fitting the IR receiver into its dedicated little spot. Connecting the things and just kind of snap fitting the things together. Which is my favorite thing to do. So that's the learn guide in a nutshell. It's very thorough. Super fun to design. I hope to do a layer by layer on some of the techniques on designing something. That has these really nice details like the triangles and the nose and the eye sockets. And yeah, they all follow the contour of the shape which is pretty cool. That's a really good one to do. Yeah, you can just about see that the LED is in there. If all the lights are turned off, it illuminates pretty nice. So at night time when it's on your desk it looks really good. You can visually see where your remote is. Yeah, and what status it's in. Like is it on mode or off mode? Another interesting bit is I actually used... So inside the Cura Slicing I used fuzzy skin to diffuse the LED. So the part looks like without fuzzy skin. So without fuzzy skin it has like these hot spots. So fuzzy skin just allows it to kind of breaks it up. It breaks it up. Yeah, so it diffuses the LED better. And you can get this really nice kind of texture. I don't know, I just kind of like it. I wonder how fuzzy skin would look like here, you know? That might look kind of good. Maybe. But yeah, that's kind of what's going on. So yeah, that is the owl. I've not designed an owl before and this was a lot of fun to learn how. Alright, looking at some of the suggestions and comments on the Discord. DJ Devan saying it'd be cool to have audio hoot when activated. Yeah, so I was going to say that. Yeah, for sure. There are plenty of pins available. So if you wanted to add a STEMO speaker, you can use any of these digital pins, probably A0. You could also use the I2S audio. It's all supported in Serger Python. You can use Wave Audio Playback or the MP3 Audio Playback. So yeah, you can do all sorts of fun stuff. Let's say you had an escape room. You're working on an escape room. You're working on a haunted, a hunt for whatever. You want to make a cool prop and you have some sort of appliance, like a light. It's a nice little jump scare. Yeah, like kind of a jump scare. You're trying to unlock something in the escape room. Like, I don't know, I'm just trying to think. I'm not good at ideas, but I think this could be better than a TV remote. It could be a little bit more themed and kind of bright. Just set up for this. It was. Eyes. There it goes. I think it's somewhere in this area. It probably, maybe. Yeah. It's like blind, blind its eyes. I think we could see IR signals. Oh yeah. The phone doesn't do that anymore. Oh, it's got the filter. It's got an IR filter. Tari is asking what nozzle and bed temps are you generally using? Four PLA and PLA plus. So this is everyone's galaxy gray, galaxy black, glitter PLA. So just PLA from everyone. And then this is from 3D Solutech. It's natural, clear PLA. The nozzle we're using is, is it a stock nozzle? You probably know more about it. I think he's asking what temperatures we're using. Sure. We like to go a little bit hotter. So 210 to 220C on the, on the nozzle and like 60C on the bed. We use a powder coated PEI Flexi build plate for Creelty. Creelty CR10S Pro. Smart Pro. I think we used on that one. Yeah, the V2 is what I used. Yeah, good questions. And we have a link to the filament. If you want that, you can probably pull it out. Sometimes we link to it. Sometimes we don't because sometimes filament manufacturers are hard to get hold of. And then Dream Controlled is asking, what are the advantages of using USB-C in a project like this? It's just what was on the QDPI RP2040. I think we're moving away. Lamar, I think Lamar Free, Lady Aida, she's moving away from micro B ports on dev boards just because USB-C is reversible, right? You can get more power into it. You can get more power, more data. It's a little bit... It's more standardized. Standardized, okay. They're figuring out what voltages and all that. But really the whole here is like, I could put whatever dev board in here if I wanted to put something else, like a Feather or Itzy Bitsy or Arduino Nano clone. You got that modularity there. So I'm glad I didn't design it in particular to a specific dev board. You don't even need to use the Chroma Proto. You just kind of glue it to the bottom cover. But this giant hole here is going to work for a majority of USB cables or even a jack if you want to do it that way, like a DC jack. You could do that. Done that before. Yeah, that's a little bit of a USB-C. Why? Reasoning. Then a... Dang it. I lost it. You lost it. There's another question. Our audio is okay, I hope. Yep. No complaints there. Sweet. Hoot. Hoot, hoot. Oh, just a comment from Andy Calaway saying it has a Totoro look. Doesn't it? Especially right here in this area. Yeah, totally. I wanted to go with that kind of... Yeah, acute, rounded shape. Mm-hmm. Yeah. Yeah, that's cool. All right, moving on to... I think that's it, right? Yeah, that's the week's project. That's this week's project. Check it out. Let us know what you think. And I hope that as far as you did, make some owls. Make a universal TV remote or something. Yeah, pass comment on from DJ Devon saying that lost their remote, their AC remote, and they were gonna get a replacement if they knew about this project. They would have been happy to do that. Yeah, the only thing though, I'll say, is that you do need the remote to capture the thing from the remote. So how I was able to do it, luckily we had another TV of the same brand and model number. So I was able to use the cable TV remote that the cable provider set up. I think it took them like all day to set up the remote because it turns out that the TV was very particular on off and on. It has two separate things. So you do kind of need a remote. That's why I'm sharing this one. This is how I was able to capture the pulses through the remote. So yeah, a little bit of an I gotcha there. So you do need a universal remote that has some of the codes in there. Yeah, I guess you couldn't buy a universal remote. Like if I didn't have that extra remote, I would have had to have bought a universal remote and then copied, decoded it from there. But yeah, all things to consider. So I might as well let you know. All right, cool. And that's this week's project. Yeah, that's our first kind of RLD project. So it's a lot of fun and we learned a lot. All right, let's go ahead and jump into this week's, what are we prototyping? Yeah, what are we prototyping? I think you started off with this super sweet. Cool, yeah. It's a new enclosure for a wireless project. So we wanted to make like a really themed case that's very tactile and has like a tactile feel to it. So it's a snap fit case and it's three pieces. The covers are symmetrical. So what's interesting, you can kind of press in the center here and then just kind of pop it out. So you'll notice that the snap fit nubbins, normally they're on in the inside of the framing, but in this case, they're on the outside of the framing. So I have these kind of cool drafted angles and the shell follows the contour of those drafted angles. And then the covers themselves have these tabs on the outside and the tabs have nubs. And it's a little bit different than the grabbers that kind of are kind of like a chevron shape. They're just these nubs. And so when you press fit them together, they click in that way. You can either pull it out with your finger now like that or like I said, just squeeze the center and it comes right off. Now, if you notice that there's this flat edge here, this flat edge, all it's doing is it's just preventing the cover from shifting up and down. Yeah, so it lines it up and keeps it in place. And you get this benefited feature that if you press on these edges, this right here and this right here, now you cannot open it. So let's say this was like a piece of a bigger project. Let's say it's a neck and then you have a body here and the neck here. And if you wanted to attach this cover here, you get that out of where the weight is holding it in place. But then if you wanted to still open it, you just squeeze the center and it easily comes undone. So those are just some things to kind of look out for and consider when you're designing something, an enclosure that has these snap fit bits. So I'll probably do a layer-by-layer on this as well because it's got a little bit of a different sketch set up, a little bit of a different recipe. But yeah, this would be a cool enclosure for a kind of a remote control that we're doing for a droid. Nice, more droids. Yeah, and more snap fit stuff. All right, oh, I'm just missing a handle here. Or it's like a hammer or something like that. The, which I'm probably the articulating little handle to hold it would be cool. Here's my magic trick. I like to take both come out. Cool. So that's something that will work on. Speaking of hammers, do you want to show your find? So this is not my design. This is something I got off a thing of risk but just wanted to show how cool it looks. Ah, this is the... Dang it. How do you pronounce the name? Stormbreaker? Yeah, Stormbreaker. Not M-U-N-E-R. Mew-Mew. Mew-Mew whatever. Whoa. This is a good strong print. So just testing out this new darker wood filament. It looks really good. Just checking out how... I don't want to snap fit it yet because there's still more pieces that need to go attached to that. So this is printed at 50% of the scale size. So this is supposed to be like a giant print. But this is just for a time-ups Tuesday. Just wanted to show off how pretty cool it looks with the wood. Did an excellent job on the... It's that same filament, right? Yeah. The every one is glitter black PLA. This is excellent stuff for all the prototyping stuff we do. Just general testing. Yeah. It's readily available. It's not quite silky. It is glittery. And it's pretty tough even for mechanical parts. I'm using it all the time. This is the every one PLA wood, the dark color. So I want to test that out. Fantastic sculpting. Twigs and everything. Surprised how everything fits together. Usually with wood parts, there's like so much... Expansion? No, just the way it's not as strong. It's very brittle. It's very stringy too. It's a good blend here of PLA and wood parts. There was a question about the temperature that we used. For this one, I had to drop it down to 190. Oh, interesting. Just so it wasn't as stringy. And it worked out beautifully. With a bunch of supports that this one had because it prints like that. Right. This is what's like wrapping onto it. It's pretty fair. Yeah, it was really good with that. So I just wanted to show my pleasure with using this filament. And of course this awesome design. I have to go check out a new drawer. Is that the filament to anybody? Yeah, put it in there if anybody's interested. But it's super easy to find on Amazon. Just wood PLA, everyone dark. And the 3D model, where can we find that? I'll post it next week too. Yeah, it'll be next week's time lapse. It's time lapse in the other room. Cool. Just some cool stuff that get printed out. Again, how cool it looks when it's together like that. Just the way that the twigs are all... I would like to reprint my owl with this. Yeah, that's why I'd like to print the base with this. That'd be kind of cool. That'd be really nice. Okay, cool. Yeah, it gives those links. Yeah, wood looks like an old beach wood or sanded wood. Yeah, and you can definitely sand this. You can stain it. You can do all of the things that you can do with wood. It's just like wood sawdust and PLA mixed together. Okay. Let me post a link to that. It looks like just fuzzy skin, but it's just the model texture. I printed it too fast. I'm not sure if this detail was modeled into the STL. No, it's too fast. Okay, drop it down. It's printing at 70 millimeters a second. I should have dropped it down like 60 or 50. Okay, good tips. All right, and that's what we're prototyping, I think, right? Yeah, that's it. That's it. A little bit of a shop talk to there as well. Yeah. Let's jump into this week's community makes. Yeah, every Tuesday we 3D print something and do a little time lapse. This week it's a Flexi Excavator by shred.eu. This is a print-in-place model of the next excavator. It looks like we're using some rainbow filament, some rainbow silk PLA filament. Yes. Was there any supports? No, no supports? No, this is support-free. Support-free and print-in-place articulating. Very, very fun. Look at these joints. Did you have to do any offset compensation or anything? No problem. Straight out. This is a testament to good tolerances in the model built in. Yeah. All right, let's look at overhead. Of course, the very awesome play feature of the flexible extruder arm here. Excavation arm. Excavation. Rotates. Oh, it moves up and down. I can tell this was the bed because you can see here is where it was able to kind of catch the 90-degree overhang. Super surprised with the roof and the little bit of detail inside. You happen to know off the top of your head the name brand of the filament, the rainbow stuff? No, I can find it, though. No name brand. No, I'll find it. Okay. And then we added a little bit of the, what is it, real butter? Oh, that's great. Like inline skate butter lubricant. It's a lubricant. Yeah. And check out that wheel. Yeah. No sanding or anything? No, no sanding. Cool. And really because it's a little bit harder to rotate the wheel on non-carpeted crown. Okay. Of course, when I'm looking at what to time-lapse, one of the overhangs here? Yeah, all over. Yeah, because it catches itself on. Yeah, one of the- See a little bit of a droopy here, but from a distance you don't even notice it. It looks perfect. Can you really look at it? And there's, of course, there's like a little zits and stuff because of the way that it time-lapses. Clever. So with the chair, they've added a drafted angle there to avoid an overhang. So it's really clever. And a lot of the internal here is all drafted edges. Man, drafted edges are the best. The bomb diggity. This is another thing- Oh, you've pinched it twice. Yeah, another reason why to print one of these is to look at how it was actually designed and you looking at how they did all the angles and drafts and where to put all that is super inspiring on how to design something without any supports. Here it is again in rainbow because I know once we're done with this, the kids are both going to- I want one too, Daddy. Yeah, exactly. Me too. Me too. Okay. And here's what you can see the difference with the lubricant without. So that's why I put it on there. So it's super useful for adding to any joints that are always going to be needing to rotate or flex. So super good for that. So you don't like saw down your materials because if I keep doing that, it's eventually going to- Yeah. It's going to scrape against each other and like sand itself. Similarly to the wood PLA, did you change any of the nozzle temperature? This one's 210 for this guy. Cool. And not as stringy as I thought it would be. Yeah. Escavator's battle. That's terrible. This is a different- No, actually no, this is from the same one. You can see that's where it stopped there and it continues. Oh, that's funny. It's a good angle. How funny? So yeah, this is a really cool community make. Very cool. Shout out to shrededu on principles. Let me pull up the printable site so folks can see it. It's a free download from principles, formerly known as Prusables. Check out the 3D object. Does that rotate around it? Right. It is placed on the bed of your printer. Very, very nice here. Very cool. And there are a few minks as well. So shout out to everybody making and posting their minks. That's good stuff. Sweet. We'll have to post a make later. All right. And that's this week's time lapse. Check it out. We'll have links in the doobly-doo. Do we still say doobly-doo? Rope says if the bucket on the tractor is the wrong way. Uh-oh. Oh, that's funny. It's scooping. No, it's scooping. Hey, I didn't design it. I know. That's like when we designed the... Oh, it's like this. The gun blade. Okay, it's like that. Oh, I know. I made the hammer on the wrong side. I've never fired a weapon, so I don't know. All right, so it should go like that. Okay. All right, we post the rainbow filament in here. It's digging. It's excavating. Now I have that song stuck in my head. That's the elevator. Yup. If you have kids, you know what song I'm talking about. Cool. All right, here's the rainbow PLA. And then the wooden PLA. Cool. Pages got all the links. I'm going to get some links together for the rest of community minks. So let me throw up that thing here. These are this week's community minks. We have a little bit to go through, but we have time this week. Excellent. First up, we have a make of the USB 3 button foot switch. Very cool. You know what's really cool about this one? Ooh. So this was posted up by DDRboxman on fingers. Shout out to DDRboxman, because they wrote custom firmware for the RP2040. So you can use this as a real steam deck pedal. Now check out this software from stream deck. You can drag and drop things. So the firmware that they wrote just turns your RP2040 into a recognizable USB device. So he's got the USB descriptor or ID or whatever the firmware needs. And it's just as a native thing. That's very, very cool. Take that out, and you can drag and drop whatever app in the sidebar here. It looks really fun. I got to try this out. They've also added a Neopixel ring for indicating stuff, because I guess the 3 button thing from, I guess is it Elgato or Stream Deck, whoever makes this thing has an RGB LED. So you can add all sorts of LED strip or ring or whatever and make it more integrated so it can light up whatever part of the foot pedal. Here's a quick look at the inside. It's just three Zippy switches, your Pico, your $5 Pico, and whatever ring, whatever Neopixel ring. Very, very cool. I don't recall. I don't remember what I used. What board? Was it on Pico? Yeah, you probably used Pico. I don't know. But yeah, check out their GitHub. And on their GitHub, they have all the code for doing the firmware. You know what? It's also a UF2 file. So you literally just drag and drop the UF2. I did not use a Pico. I used a... PewDiePie. I was just looking at his thing. Well, they built... I know, that's... They made their own bracket for... This is exactly why I did that. So here's Pedro's build, not all the LEDs. Just like the Nintendo Switch. Yeah, you're going for that. So very cool. Oh, this was for accessibility. Yeah, those were for kind of switches. A lot of the AC switches out there use mono jacks, mono audio jacks, TRS jacks. Here's all the buttons. Yeah. They don't just break out there. So very cool. Very good. Very impressive make from DDRbox, man. All right, let me grab that for the next one. What is the goal? I think that's what is always the goal with these. Remix. A Pico DAC, man. That's amazing. Cool. Well, we have a post, a make of our Keyblade. We have a 3D printed screw together Keyblade from the video game series, Kingdom Hearts. Is there a new one coming out? Yeah, I think so. It's like Kingdom Hearts 4. So Keyblades, yet another one. Very cool. This was the full scale of it, I suppose, which is pretty big. It all screws together and has some of it. So this was posted up by... Where's the username? I'm used to Thingiverse. This is Colt3D, so... Ooh. There it is. DudeSweet. Dude underscore sweet. Shout out for posting your make. Pretty sweet dude. They preceded Donna, Ender3Pro, I suppose. But yeah, it's a very, very lengthy blade. Very, very fun. I had a lot of fun building that. No electronics, just 3D printed bits. You can grab the model from any of the sites. So shout out to DudeSweet for posting that up. Next up is InfinityCube. Yeah, somebody made an InfinityCube. Posted up by RP209. Is there a make of the InfinityCube? I don't see any comments on it. So you can just see that it's... I think we did two versions of it, right? I made one version, you made a second version. I think this is my version because I have these little corners here and this base. Cool. Looks great. Yeah, you can cut your own mirrored film, two-way mirrored acrylic, and have the LEDs embedded inside and make this very cool InfinityCube. It looks like that when it's turned on. You can use whatever Neo strips you want. You can use regular LED strips. High density, low density. Whatever fits your budget, whatever you have on hand. So pretty cool. All right. Next up is the Matrix Hourglass. LED Matrix Hourglass. All done in Serpent Python as well. This was posted up by Rudin, the year. Posted this up on Thingiverse and it's the build of the LED arrows. Gosh, it looks gorgeous in that red. That is a beautiful photo of the way it's illuminating and getting all these reflections to on the floor there. It looks fantastic. This uses the 8x8 LED backpack matrices from Adafruit and I think the Adafruit Feather Sense, which has a Bluetooth micro-control chip and an accelerometer. And that's how you're able to turn it up and down and it actually works as an LED hourglass. They're saying they're quite happy with it. Delightful hourglass design from the great people of Adafruit. Easy to print and due to its thoughtful design, a nice addition to any home or office. I've tried the smaller version, but I still have on the larger, two different versions. So it could fit the Max 7219 displays that they already had. And they also use the WiIMOS D1 Mini ESP8266. That's nice. I think they're like a couple of bucks. So it's a nice low-cost dev board that everybody can get. Yeah, and then did it in our Vino. So check that out. And they have links to the display in the WiIMOS D1 Mini. Cool. All right. So shut up to Redden E. Sorry for butchering your name. I apologize. But kudos to you, sir. Okay, next up we have another make. This is like a couple of weeks worth of make, so that's why we're just now getting to them. JackNZ posted upon Thingiverse a make of the Raspberry Pi Zero mount with a Sony NP battery holder. So it has a battery built into the Raspberry Pi case, which is pretty cool. This is a mashup between the Sony NP series battery blank and the Raspberry Pi Pico case. This lets me mount my Pi Zero to the back of an aperture V screen with an NP connection on the back so that I'm not using it. It could use blending of the two parts together. It's better emulate the gap around the beveled edge and probably get around to that in a bit meanwhile for the concept. Very cool, JackNZ. All right. Just a couple more. We have a dark saber build. Looks like this is one slight part that was updated to allow for two speakers to go in. Okay. Very cool. And this is posted by POTTY. POTTY posted that one up. Pooty. POTTY. And then heat set remix. Po-loopy posted this one up. It's their remix of the... I think it's the... Yeah, the roller plate for our heat pressed insert rig. You're ever doing heat set inserts and you want to rig to make it easier. This is a project that helps you do that. And they say... They just made it fit their limited profile so they remixed it so that it works with their stuff. So I like seeing that. And here's the original build. Just to give you a context of what the whole build looks like. It's a piece of 2020 extrusion and some racks and 3D printed parts to mount a soldering iron so that you can do heat set inserts very perpendicular. Very cool. So if you're doing a lot of those, check it out. I think we covered the next one here, the iPhone case remix. Okay. Looks familiar. Well then the last one is a shout out to Remy. Remy posted this up a couple of weeks ago, and they did a little bit of a video that's titled The Story Behind the MIDI Fighter. So it's a really good look, a quick kind of look at the history of the MIDI Fighter. The MIDI Fighter is a MIDI controller that I'm really fond of. And we've had several MIDI Fighter DIY projects. And Remy took it on himself to add some features to our Raspberry Pi Pico project. Raspberry Pi Pico MIDI Fighter project with this one here. So he made it so that the OLED screen displays the MIDI notes as opposed to just the value and some bits where you can turn it off and turn on and it will save the mapping, which is really cool. Wow. So shout out to Remy for putting this together and did an excellent job on that and has this video on kind of talking about the history of the MIDI Fighter that was eventually released as a commercial product by DJ Tech Tools. So check that out. I'll be sure to put a blog post on Remy's video. Yeah. And that's this week's Community Makes. Thank you everybody so much for sending your makes. It makes our day when we see especially a modified design for whatever specific board or specific use case. And with that, I have crashed Safari. It just won't go. I think Facebook went down. Tell me to go live again. But everything else is... No, YouTube's going. Are you folks still with us? Hello. I can't see. We're good. My whole thing is correct. Nope, we're good on everything else. I'm just saying, like, this cord won't load so you can't show folks their comments. I apologize. Nope, we're all good. All right, let's go ahead and close out the show. I can't. It won't go. Just go to the closing out. Can you close out? You're going to have to end the stream for me because my browser has crashed. Yep, I can end it. All right. Thank you. I want to see the comments. There's no comments. Well, thanks everybody for... People are typing though. We're joining us. We're still there. Stop to do the show. We always have audio problems. We have noise outside. Bluetooth destroys the... Way to go, handoff. Yeah. Later tonight, we have some special goodies. We have a 10% discount code tonight on Ask an Engineer. It starts at 8 p.m. Every Wednesday at 8 p.m. Eastern Time. Get a full hour of Marneville. We'll be live streaming tonight in their show called Ask an Engineer. Shortly before then, at 7.30 p.m., we have a show in town. So we invite you to come on the show in town and show us what you might be working on. We also like to see retro gear, maker spaces, hacker spaces. Yeah. Ideas. That sort of stuff. So if you'd like to join us, you can drop in at around 7.20 p.m. We'll paste the link to the stream yard and then folks can join that way through the Discord. So you got to be on the Discord. So this week, yeah, Lamar and Phil are hosting this week. Thank you to them. Tomorrow we have John Park's workshop at 4 p.m. Eastern Time. Tune in with John to build some stuff. On Fridays, we have a live stream with Tim, Foamy Guy, every Friday at 2 p.m. Pacific or 5 p.m. Eastern. You get a full deep dive session with Tim. And then on Sundays, we have from the desk of Lady Ada. She's streaming on the weekends around Sundays at Hacker Hours. Tune in for sneak peeks, secret sauce and more. On Mondays, you have the CircuitPython meeting at 2 p.m. Eastern Time unless it's a U.S. holiday, which will then be on the following day. But you can always check up on the archive to kind of hear it. And you can listen to it on any of your favorite podcast players. But it happens live in the Discord chat room on Mondays at 2 p.m. Eastern Time. Almost done. On Tuesdays, JP's got another show for his product pick of the week. Every Tuesday at 4 p.m. Eastern Time, you can get up to 50% off select picks from JP. This week was a feather wing screw block terminal. And then Wednesdays, we have the 3D Hangouts show that we measure through. Wednesday at 11 a.m. Eastern Time. And then later, we'll have these two shows. So Wednesdays have a lot of shows. The whole week has shows. Every day is a show. Except Saturday. Except Saturday. How funny. Alright, it's gonna be it for us. Good luck with all your maker endeavors. And with that, we'll see you later tonight. But until then, remember to make a great day. Make a great day. See you later tonight. Bye, folks. Music.