 Bonjour et bienvenue, this is Lamotte Elise and welcome back again to my channel. In today's tutorial, we are about to embark on a style adventure as we recreate the patterns for a chic little black dress inspired by the latest ready-to-wear collection from the prestigious house of Schiapparelli. So grab your materials and let's get started. Before diving into the pattern making process, let's take a moment to dissect the intricate details of this dress. Extended Shoulder Slope The shoulder slope is extended to create a broad look, drawing heavy inspiration from the 80s silhouette and style, measuring between 6.5 inches to 7 inches. Large Arm Hole Extending the shoulder slope results in a larger arm hole. This adjustment also allows for the incorporation of shoulder pads contributing to a stiff and sharp look. V-neckline design, folded or pleated bust dart. Instead of sewing, the darts are folded or pleated in place. Empire or Empire Waist We will heavily use the Empire Waist Technique for the dress which result to under-bust and waist seam lines. Princess Seamline for the skirt? Well, pockets with flap at mid-hip level. Miniskirt The miniskirt is measured from the waist ranging between 13.5 inches to 14 inches. Longer Sleeve Length Extending the slopes also result to a longer sleeve length. And lastly, Jacket Zipper Closure For this dress, a jacket zipper is used for the closure. To start off, I will use my basic torso block or sloper. And if you have noticed, I'm using a torso block with two darts on the back and front waist. By the way, guys, comment down below if you want me to demonstrate this torso pattern block on a separate tutorial. And if ever you don't have a basic torso block, I have separate tutorials for the basic torso foundation on my channel. First, I am going to trace the front torso block on my paper. And don't forget to establish these important lines. Next, let's transfer the value of the second dart to our first dart. Firstly, take the measurement of the second dart to determine how much value we will transfer. And I will mark out half centimeter each side on my first dart. And redraw the first dart until the bust point and until the dart at the hip. And erase or disregard the second dart. Next, from the side seam, I will mark in 0.6 centimeter or twits of an inch to decrease the waist. From this mark, I will redraw the side seam like so. Next, let's work on the mini skirt. First, extend the center front line going down. And from the waist mark down 13.5 inches or 34.2 centimeters. And square a line like so. And square in the one fourth width of the hip like so. From the end of the dart at hip, square down a line for the princess seam. Next, I will trace off my back torso block on my paper. And don't forget to establish these important lines. Same with the front block, I will transfer the value of the second dart. But this time, I will transfer only half of the second dart value on the back side seam. And redraw the back side seam like so. And disregard the second dart. Next, extend the center back line going down. And from the waist mark down the skirt length. And square a line like so. And square in the one fourth width of the hip like so. And from the end of the dart at hip, square down a line for the princess seam. Next, from the bus point, I will use my compass to draw in the bus radius minus two eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And square a line like so for the under-bus line. From the previous first dart at under-bus or radius, mark out two eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And from these marks, square in lines towards the bus point. And square in lines blending towards the waist. And cut off the mid-riff at the waist and under-bus lines. Next, combine the patterns making one whole pattern for the front mid-riff. And mark to notch the mid-riff pattern for sewing references. And label the pattern. From the back bust line, mark down the under-bus seam as front. And square in a line like so. From the back dart at under-bus line, mark out 0.3 centimeter or one eighths of an inch each side. From these marks, draw in lines blending toward the waist. And toward the end of the back dart. And cut off the mid-riff at the waist and under-bus lines. Next, combine the patterns making one whole pattern for the back mid-riff. And label the pattern. And these are the back and front mid-riff patterns. By the way, if you're not familiar with embarking toward waist, I have a separate tutorial available on my channel and please check it out. And for the skirt, I'm going to cut through the princess seam lines, making two pieces for the front skirt. And label the front skirt panels. And do the same thing for the back skirt. And these are the back and front skirt panels. Next, from center front at under-bus, mark in 0.3 centimeter or one eighths of an inch. From neck tip, mark in 4 eighths of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And connect these two marks creating a V neckline design. From neck point at center front, square in a slant line towards bust point. Mark in or mark out 2 eighths of an inch or 0.3 centimeter from this line. And from this mark, square in a line towards the bust point. From the bust line, mark in and mark out 0.3 centimeter or one eighths of an inch. From these marks, square in slant lines toward the bust point. And slash the bust dart until the bust point to open. Next, close the contour lines by slashing and taping each contour lines in place. Next, mend and blend the neckline by using a curved ruler. And cut off the pattern from the paper. By the way, I also have a separate tutorial for basic contouring principles and if you're not familiar with it, better check it out on my channel. And this is initially how the front patterns appear on my dress form. Next, for the back, mark in 4 eighths of an inch or 1.27 centimeter from the neck tip. And mark down 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter from center back at neck point. And redraw the back neckline. And cut off the pattern from the paper. Just to be sure, match the shoulder slope of back and front patterns and check if they are correct in measurement. Next, cut through the front and back patterns making 2 pieces. And label each panels. Next, get another piece of paper. And square in a horizontal line at the bottom part of your paper. Get the first front panel and place right exactly at the line. And tape the panel in place. From panel 1 at princess line, mark out 3 inches or 7.6 centimeters. And place panel 2 right exactly at the line and at the mark. And tape panel 2 in place. From the neck tip, square out a line like so. Best to use an angle ruler for this one. And from the neck tip, measure out the new shoulder slope measurement. From the side seam at under arm, mark down 2 inches or 5 centimeters. And mark in for 8.7 inch or 1.27 centimeters. And redraw the new front arm hole using a ruler. And from panel 2, fold the princess line towards panel 1. And now you have this triangular shape at the under bust. So this is how the front pattern appears on my transform showcasing the folded bust start. As you can see, the arm hole is larger, reflecting the extended shoulder slope. For the back, get panel 1 and place right exactly on the line. And tape panel 1 in place. From panel 1 at princess line at under bust, mark out 3.48 inches or 8.8 centimeters. And place panel 2 right exactly at the mark and at the line. From the neck tip, square out a line like so. And from the neck tip, measure out the new shoulder slope measurement. From the side seam at under arm, mark down 2 inches or 5 centimeters. And mark in for 8.7 inch or 1.27 centimeters. And redraw the new back arm hole using a ruler. And from panel 2, fold at the princess line towards panel 1. Cut at the under bust while panel 2 is still folded. And now you have this triangular shape at the under bust. And here is how the back patterns look on my dress form. Because I think the slope is too wide, I will decrease this by 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And because the arm hole is big for my liking, I will add 5.8 of an inch or 1.5 centimeters from the under arm at side seam. Next, I will get the arm hole measurement from my back and front patterns. So here's a tip. When getting the arm hole measurement, start from the shoulder tip and pause at the chestline and record the upper arm hole. And continue getting the lower arm home from chestline until under arm at side seam and record. And please pause the video to get the formula on how to get the bicep weave and the arm hole depth for the sleeve. Next, face the side seam of both back and front patterns together. And from the under arm, measure out the arm hole depth until the tip of the shoulders. And record the arm hole depth. To start off the frame for the sleeve, drop perpendicular lines on your paper. On the top line, mark down the sleeve length and square a line. And mark out the bicep weave for the sleeve and square a line to complete the frame. This is the sleeve length and this is the bicep weave. From the top line, mark down your arm hole depth from your own calculations. For me, I'm using 7 for 8 inches or 19 centimeters. And square in a line to complete the arm hole depth line. Next, divide the sleeve length and mark in the half from the top line. This is the elbow line. And next, divide the bicep weave by four. This is the elbow crown line, center or grain line, and the armband line. From the arm hole depth line at side seam, mark in 3-1 inch or 1 centimeter each side. Next, divide the armband line at the arm hole depth by 2 and mark. And get the upper one-third of the elbow crown line at the arm hole depth and mark. Next, connect the marks at side seam to elbow crown and armband marks. And square in slant lines. Next, connect the elbow crown and armband marks to the center line and square in slant lines. And divide each slant lines by 2 and mark. For the lower front arm hole, mark down 6-8-7 inch or 2 centimeters. For the upper front arm hole or cap, mark up 4-8-7 inch or 1.2 centimeters. For the lower back arm hole, mark down 3-8-7 inch or 1 centimeter. And for the upper back arm hole or cap, mark up 3-8-7 inch or 1 centimeter. And next, I'm going to connect all marks using my curved ruler as demonstrated. And now the sleeve cap is complete. For the hem, mark in the half of the wrist measurement from the center line and do this on each side. And connect the wrist marks to the side seam with a slant line. And now the basic sleeve for the dress is complete. And this is how the sleeve looks like on my dress form together with the back and front patterns. Anyway guys, I hope this pattern making tutorial gave you enough tips on how to recreate this Gabrielle little black dress. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. And if you're not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel Lama Del East, make it sure to hit that subscribe button. And if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up. And I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. Abiento!