 Okay, so a couple of things I'm going to bring awareness of too are as you get into the cover crops and prevent plants, if that's your first experience with it and you like what you're seeing and you want more information, we have the soil science podcast and then also this new subdivision I guess of soil science coming out in mid June called field check and it's going to be a question and answer type podcast session that are only 10 minutes. So I'm excited about that coming up and it'll be a great way to ask a question and get a specialist or another farmer or consultant will find the perfect person to answer your question. So that'll be pretty cool and keep your eye out for that. Let's see. So when we talk about cover crop benefits, we know that there's all kinds of benefits with breaking, compaction, catching nitrogen, improving seed beds, creating a better environment for our living soil. But what we're going to talk about is the benefits of cover crops for water management and obviously if we have some PP issues, we're looking at managing water on these fields. We need to get something growing out there if we don't have a full season crop. So cover crops are a great option. We can do cheap, we can do expensive, we can custom tailor the mixes to your goals, which is really the exciting flexible part of this, taking a tough situation and making it making it a little bit better. Some of the things, I just want to show you some of these root structures and Marisol is going to laugh because Dwarf estix rapeseed is or was, I don't know if it still is, one of my favorite cover crops just because I really like the roots on this sucker. So you can see some of the fine roots and then the thicker roots to go through compaction. But it can over winter and it does flower in early spring. So I can't see Joe's video anymore to know, see if he's shaking his head going, Abby, don't ever plant that or not. But I do, it's, it's, he's struggling now. But it is a nice, it's nice to think about the different root structures for your cover crops. And sometimes that's how I pick the cover crops. I put it at mixes based on the type of roots I'm going to get. So here was, this is a PP field last year that was just radish turnip and peas. And this is down the southeast corner. And I think it, I think it turned out great. I mean, look at all this biomass that could be grazed. So that was, that was a really nice mix. I don't know what these lines are that just showed up, but anyways, here's another full season mix. You can see some, has that sorghum Sudan in their Marisol and have some other different species in the understory. This one wasn't PP, but it was a full season mix intended to be grazed on a high water table sandy soil over by Leonard. So again, another example of using something full season to, to burn up some moisture and manage moisture. We did, let's see, back in, I think this is in 2014, we had some plots that we had set up with where we looked at different mixes and then also a bare soil, which would be this light blue line over here. And we just had a full season mix, which are these ones. And then we had a bare, bare plots that we just measured moisture content at at one point in time. This was a broadcasted, these are plots were broadcasted in mid July, we ran a drag over them. We had four weeks of no rain. So we didn't get much establishment early on, but then later in the season, you can see the establishment we got as far as, as water use. You can see that, you know, don't necessarily look at these percentages up here, but look at them relative to each other. When we had a diverse full season mix, we had quite a bit of moisture usage all the way down through the soil profile. Whereas with the tillage system and managing that soil, we had, you know, some evaporation at the surface here, but then you had this bulge of moisture still right down below and it didn't dry anything out with depth. So, so that's where we get in trouble with PP is, is, you know, relying on tillage and evaporation and not having a plant there to actually use it, use the moisture so we can keep, so that will keep some of that moisture in that, just in that subsoil, which makes it more difficult to get into next year. As far as nitrogen capture, you can see all the cover crops did, did capture some, some nitrate in, whereas with just the bare soil surface, you can see that the nitrate was still there. So another great benefit of having cover crops is to save some of your, some of your nitrogen that may be out there. Going into the, into the winter, this is how it looks, which actually when you compare it just to some barley residue over here, it really isn't much different. In my opinion, as far as coverage, you know, really dense, lush stand during the growing season doesn't amount to much when it gets to winter and then into spring and everything just kind of decays and, and breaks apart. So, so if anyone's concerned about the next year or into the winter, it's really not that much different from something like barley stubble or wheat stubble, in my opinion. This is, I've seen fields where the cover crops after the full season have been worked up or chisel plowed and this can be, excuse me, this can be actually more challenging for decomposition of the cover crops because they do much better decomposing in the soil versus on the surface. So we also look at, excuse me, whether you do a mix or monocultures, and I think that really can depend on the weed pressures in your field and what you want to accomplish. But here's a side by side of a monoculture versus a full season mix. So here's another example of full season mix. And I would say if you're going to do a full season mix, make sure your field is clean. Make sure the ruts are worked out of the fields prior to seeding it. You don't want to seed a cover crop into a weedy mess because then you just have cover crops and weeds. So make sure that you're doing what you need to do to control the weeds prior to seeding of the cover crop because once you have all these grasses and broadleafs in the mix, you lose your herbicide options without taking out part of the mix. But you can see here you can do this for 20 bucks an acre and still get good coverage in these fields. And here's an example of just cereal rye that was seeded in mid-summer and about 40, 50 pounds for 10 bucks an acre and that provided a really nice stand. The farmer did this on a field where he had more higher weed pressures. So it gave him the option to do a herbicide pass mid-summer for broadleafs. And I think that was a good move on his part. It left him some management tools and also helped him get some coverage out there. So that's what I have for just to get us thinking. Does anyone have some questions they want to start with or some thoughts? So I'm going to make a comment, Abby, to have the discussion going. I'm really glad to see that you tried full-season cover crop. So me personally, when I look at full-season cover crop, especially with Langdon in mind, if most years, most years if people wanted to plant cover crops after harvesting a regular annual crop, they won't get good growth. So I think full-season cover crop meets the objectives. It benefits the soils greatly. And in my personal view, again, depending upon the system, if a full-season cover crop becomes a part of the rotation, grazing it and haying it is wonderful. Then you get your profit or money back in the same year. But even the soil health benefits, if you include it in the rotation, again, is strictly talking from the perspective of not having a lot of livestock in Cavalier County, but I think it's a very good rotation for the soils. And it will help increase the yield for the crops in the future years. Yeah, it seems like your options are pretty endless if you want to do full-season cover crops. So we have the two extremes where you have a pretty diverse mix where you're trying to bring some diversity in. You're trying to get some different root structures in there. And then you have the monocultures, which to me are totally fine, too, because they're getting cover on that field. And they're helping to manage the moisture and manage the weeds. Joe, are there any things we need to think about as far as herbicides and planning for weed management prior to cover crops on prevent plant? Or what do you? I mean, for me, whether it's planning of cover crops or throughout the season, one of the main goals is to really just keep it as cheap as possible since no one's making a whole lot of money off of these acres. The other thing to consider, though, so there's some things you could put some residuals down, potentially, if you get that cover. But the issue is how diverse that cover is going to be. So if you're just going sort of in Sudan, I'd have to check some things. But I'm pretty sure that's tolerant to atrazine. So you could put some down if you wanted to. But if you're putting other things in the mix, and I wouldn't recommend that. In general, I'd keep it as cheap as possible. If you don't have glyphosate-resistant weeds, just a quart of some glyphosate, this is cheap as it gets to take out the weeds that are there before you plant. Otherwise, grimoxone would be another good option. But as something broad-spectrum, keep it cheap. If you're going with a grass cover crop, and then we can use Gicambler 24D, it's not labeled ahead of some of our crops. For instance, our small grains. That's just because of some potential injury year in and year out. In many regards, I don't care if the cover crops are really injured because they're going to come through it. It's just when that injury is also related to grain yield and triggers a complaint that the companies tend to lean conservative on the way the labels are written. So we can get a little more creative than we can with some of our crops. But still, if you're going a mix of grasses and broadleafs, keep it simple, keep it something like glyphosate or grimoxone, just as far as seabed preparation for planting the cover crops. I think you're muted, Abby, if you're trying to talk. Yeah, I am because my son came out. So I didn't want everybody to hear what he had to say. So the question came up. Last year, corn was the talk about a cover crop on prevent plant in South Dakota. So is corn a viable cover crop? And if corn would be considered a cover crop, what population should be planted? Marisol, do you have any thoughts on that? I don't. Well, it depends what they want to do. Are they going to graze the corn as a cover crop? Because you said the corn is a cover crop, right? Can you read me question again? Yeah, or if Chad, if you just want to unmute yourself and ask it, it would be go ahead and do that, too. I think grazing the cover crop will be dependent on the RMAs' determination of September 1st or November 1st. Yeah, that makes sense. But so you want to use corn as a cover crop? That was the talk in South Dakota last year, yes. Yeah, I don't see why you couldn't. It's an expensive cover crop to use. But you have a lot of herbicide alternatives. I don't see why you can use it. You're going to use it alone or in mixes? Alone. Alone. Just like sorghum, that one's corn is going to take a lot of water. So I don't see what is the problem. I just see that it could be an expensive thing. And the other thing is you use it as a preventive plant. You're not allowed to harvest it. You won't be able to use the grain, even if you want to. You'll have to just use it for biomass or for grazing after November or whatever the date is. But you won't be able to harvest it for grain. Does that answer your question? Do you have an idea for that? Recommended population for a cover crop? Hmm. I don't know. I would say you say about the same as you use it for a crop. I don't know. So Mary, if he wants to graze it, I think the more biomass would help. Yeah. Correct. So population, because you're not looking at the grain quality now, you just want to use it for grazing. So more biomass, I think, so more, I think slightly more plant population than compared to what we are used to having for crop would be slightly better in this case. That would be my view. But I think it depends on the date. For the May, if the date is November 1st, you're just going to have a very dry corn that's not going to have pretty much any wheat quality. So I don't know if it's worth to spend the money, because you're going to use herbicides for wheat control anyway. So I don't think it changes. Now if they change the day by September 1st, then it's a different story because then you will have still a green crop that you can graze. And it will be better for that. So I guess it'll depend on that too. So if we include the, sorry, go ahead. Liz mentioned that RMA does not allow corn as a cover initially and does not normally. So maybe you would have to mix something in with it to prove that it's part of a cover crop and not just that there wouldn't be any chance of harvesting it. And then Jeff, oh my gosh. And then this is, I love working at home with kids. And then Jeff mentions that plant corn at a higher seeding rate than normal, like 40,000 seeds per acre are greater and narrow rows are 22 inch row spacing are less. And this will promote canopy closure and result in better erosion and wheat control. Yeah. And I was just thinking to Marisol's point, it is true. For example, we assume that the date is going to be November 1st, there would not be a lot of green in that corn. So if you wanted to add a legume, you could mostly leave corn. But if you add a legume, that would add some green material. It'll be slightly more greener. And it may add to the quality of the grazing. I think that was the issue with doing a solid seeded oat cover crop mix. I think that came up last year maybe that if you had just a monoculture of oats in that field and by chance, you got to the fall and you could take it for grain. That army didn't like that because there was a chance that you could. Yeah. And then I want you to plan anything that you could harvest for grain because that's not allowed. And so that's where cereal rye became something that you could use as a monoculture because it needs to vernalize to produce a head. So I think that's why we were going a lot of cereal rye last year was because there was no chance you could harvest it in the fall. And it truly was would be considered a cover crop. What's the rationale of trying to use corn as a cover crop? Because it would be an expensive thing to add. Compared to a mix of cover crop seeds, what would cost more? You're using a corn hybrid, right? So the seeded will be expensive. What would cost you for acre to use corn compared to a mixture? I don't know. I'm just asking. Is it because, is this something because people have extra seed they couldn't plant as a crop? So they just want to use it as a cover crop? Is that the reason? Because I don't see buying corn seed to plant as a cover crop because how much is the seed of corn cost per acre? $80, $100? Chad, do you remember what the thinking was last year on corn as a cover crop? I'm not exactly sure. I think it was mostly for the value of cutting up for silage for the cattle. OK. So cutting it after the deadline? Well, again, yeah. But I guess you could use it without being going to prevent the plant to crop. And then you can use it as a silage. The thing is, yeah, if the day is over first, you won't be able to take as a silage. It's going to be too dry. Because you've got to take it as a silage for a mixture. It must be the first week of September or last week of August, so it depends a year. But if you don't need to prevent the planted payment, maybe it's just planted as a corn silage. I just don't see, and I might be completely wrong, is what is this, what do you gain? If you can't have as a corn silage, of course, because you have animals, so you have that, they're used for that. And maybe you don't have grazing. Is that the reason why you would prefer something like this than a mixture? Because a mixture, you're probably going to have to graze it. Is that the thinking? It's just something that was easy, I think, for people in South Dakota. That's where they were used to planting corn. They planted, they wanted to plant corn late June and cut up the silage. And that was after the announcement of the September 1st date versus the November 1st date. Yeah, in that case, it makes sense. Because if you planted late, Lucas put a message there that if you're going to graze, you could put a grazing corn variety. He says 1.38 pounds, dollars per pound, is a BMR variety. BMR is a brown mid-rib. That means it exists in both sorghum and corn, and it is for reducing, you know, reducing lignin content and increased adjustability. So they're BMR corn and sorghum varieties. And then Liz also mentioned using just a way to discard corn seed and hoping for the feed value when they change the forage dates. So I was looking at the, I talked to Fray and Olson yesterday about the prevent plant payments. And the way I understood his explanation that for example, the last planting date is the first date to get the full prevent plant payments. But if you planted and you don't have to, say for example, plant a cover crop. So if you waited for the prevent plant period to end, then you'll get a full prevent plant payment. And whatever you plant, you could then graze it or hay it at any time. Would that be correct or no? No, you'd have to wait until after November 1st to be able to hay or graze without a penalty to your prevent plant payment. Even if you planted it after the whole prevent plant period is finished. That is correct. Okay. As you, you have the late plant period for most crops, which is 25 days after their final planting date. Yep. So they have to wait until they can plant a cover crop anytime after the final planting date. But they can't hay or graze until after November 1st as of right now. So say for example, your last planting date and if you wait for 25 more days and then plant prevent plant acres, it'll still be the same. The rule would be the same. It would be the same rule, yes. Okay. Yeah, I'm just, I don't know much about it, but I'm just worried about the cost versus the quality you're gonna get if you graze or that corn after November 1st. Because the feed value is gonna be very low at that time. I agree. So I think we might have to wait until what the army says. They change the date or not. If they don't change the date, I don't know if I would recommend that because it's gonna cost you, unless you're using this car seed, by this car seed of a hybrid corn, you're gonna get all kinds of plants or world collars and fights and, you know, because it's gonna segregate. I don't know if somebody planted this car seed and see what you get. You're gonna get nothing like your corn look before. So. So Luke, have you ever tried that grazing corn? Let's see. You're off mute, but we can't hear you. You might not have a microphone on the computer. Sorry, Luke, we can't hear you. Sorry, my computer's being dumb. Oh, man. Yeah, I know how that goes. So what about, yeah, go ahead. Can you hear me? It's Jason Hansen. Yeah. Okay. One thing I, if I could get as a request, I think you have a chart and had to deal with salinity by crop. If you remember that, there's gonna be some of the ground that I'm dealing with is people are just wondering based on the type of soils they have around salinity, what crops they can look at. So if you could post that Twitter or to your website, I'd like to have access to that. I got it somewhere in my notes and I can't find it. So that'd be one thing. People are, I've been hearing the last couple of days, 25 to 35% up in my area, they think are gonna be preventive plants. So people are getting ready to think about what crops, what situations would I use, people got barley in the bin. So that's kind of a first chief option, but what if I want to do other things? Then they think about at what seeding rates do I put these on? And I know you've had some notes there. And then probably when's good timing to do this? Those are probably the three things right now is what people are thinking of. When should I do this? At what rate should I seed it? Because they're trying to secure, if you want to, you've got guys that want to do turnip and radish, sure, there's guys that just want to pull barley out of a bin. And then that's salinity chart, I guess. Okay, yeah, I can definitely post that salinity chart. There have been some changes to it because we've since found that oats are a little more tolerant of salinity than we thought originally. So that's nice that that gives a little more options. And so I'm sure everybody knows you, Jason, but he's in the Devil's Lake area. So I think, so with barley in the bin, what crops would they be mostly going to next year? What would be the main? Because I think that's the first consideration is what farmers are gonna go to the following year. Yeah, I think most of our corn ground is going to be not touched. And then it'll depend on how wet it is. We have a lot of crop that is a stubble. So wheat in particular, anything that was barley or wheat, this in 19 is going to be very tough to get into. So I think people are going to let that drought as much as possible. And they want something that's going to give them some flexibility as to what they're gonna put in for next year. So personally, I'm sitting in my truck, looking at a field with my brothers that I think it's gonna be very tough to seed the soybeans into and it's wheat stubble. And I think that's the case there, where there's gonna be a lot of that. So maybe looking for something that's flexible as possible, it'll probably be, if it's barley, seeded barley for cover crop, it will probably go back to soybeans next year. I think there'll be a lot of the same intentions, just trying to dry the ground out, just the main reason I'm looking at it, is where most people are. So it seems like anything that's gonna go to soybean, having some kind of winter annual in there, like rye, would be a good thing. Now, if you included, would you wanna include that marisol in a mix now? Would you put the rye in? Or would you wanna do a mix and then come in and seed the rye later? Which unfortunately that's two steps, but I don't know how rye would compete in a mix. No, I think what you're saying, this one is, the problem is there's a lot of straw left from the cereal slash it, right? Yeah. Yeah, so it's hard to put anything in there. So is that the wheat then being a harvest or harvest laden? Because I know there are a lot of acres that being a harvested or lost or something. Yeah, it was, it's harvested. It's rather short stubbled, so that then there's a mat. So that's the problem is you're such a mat of straw on the ground that it isn't letting anything, even in our windy warm days. So I would anticipate that like a lot of fields, they're gonna wanna do like Joe says and spray it out and keep it clean for weeds. Give it a period of time and then go in and probably do something around seeding into it. So. Yeah, if you know, I know you have salinity or maybe sorghum, because sorghum is the one that will move the most water out of it. Because that's why you worry that it's still very wet under that mat, right? And so, sorghum that's the way some salinity, right, Abby? It's not the worst. It's not the worst. I mean, we've put it on some reddish effect salinity areas and it'll grow fine where it's very low. It doesn't do well where it's higher. So you kind of see it established by the road and then it dies out and then it comes back up where the salts are lower. So I wish it were more salt taller, but I don't think it's... I would put some, the thing is, I know I'm not gonna grow that well, but it'll move a lot more water than barley. You know, barley will do good in the salinity, but it doesn't move as much water as sorghums do. And you need to move water out of the soil so you get it, you know, good for next year. Because otherwise you're gonna keep on for the planting, you know, situations, because you can't get that water out of the soil. I don't know, that's what I do, but I'm not sure you have to, if you're really there, I think sorghum should do okay. I mean, if I do put in parts of the field, I mean, the whole field probably isn't saline, they're probably patches where the barley would do better if you had that in the mix. And then with sorghum, you only need two pounds, right? I mean, so it wouldn't be a huge... Two or three pounds that you can put in the mix with the barley. And if you wanna throw some, what else will move a lot water? Some flowers, some flowers are not very salinity or are they? I'm just thinking on crops, they have a deep tap root that they can't move a lot of water out of the soil quickly. Beets can also, they're salt tolerant. And yeah, they can help infiltrate. Like turnip and radish could do that on okay ground, but they're not salt tolerant. Beets are salt tolerant. The only thing I would say about beets is that when you're planting them in a mix, you have to kind of like increase the seed rate because they don't really compete well. And in the mat of straw, I don't know how well they're gonna come up. Yeah, but that's not a bad idea. Is there a cheap sugar beet seed available of the old types, multi germ and not the expensive beet stuff? Is there a crop beet seed? I bought it in a mix. So to be honest with you, I don't remember the price of it. Okay. Yeah, but it's a big seed too, so. I will go with, you know, you don't want to spend that much money, but I will go with something with barley and barley and sorghum, you know, mix. And if you have some other stuff that's very cheap and your cabbage just throw it in there. Well, if not everything comes, that's fine. You know, you didn't spend that much money. You put some broadleafs in there. I don't know, Joe, you know, sorghum is really good with weeds too, if it grows. It really competes well. Suppresses the weeds around it, so. I mean, if you want, I could quickly share an Excel sheet. Go ahead. Yeah, we can do that. So if I share my screen. So Marisol, a quick question with the barley in that sorghum mix, what do you think would be a good seeding rate for that, just at least a starting point to adjust from? Yeah, I would put a 15 pounds of barley and five of sorghum. I would put a little more sorghum because since it has some salinity in some spot, at least you can get a little more. I like to put some broadleaf, you know, to make it a more diverse mix. I would throw some one pound of sunflowers if you have some. Like you said, now the whole field is saline, right? So in the areas there's no saline, some sunflowers will come up. Sunflower is really good at moving water out of the soil. Can you guys, sorry. Yeah, go ahead. Can you see my screen? Yeah. OK, so I just was playing with this yesterday for our call today. So we have a huge club root issue, say for example, in Cavalier County. So this mix, the top mix is for saline areas. So I included forage barley, forage oats, which are very good salt tolerant crops and sweet clover. Just wanted to have a legume in that to have some green. And this is the percentage of the seed event width in the mix. So 30% each for barley and oats and 40% sweet clover. You could play with that, change it. And these are the full seeding rates. And then based on your percent of each plant type in the mix, these are the, Jason, that was your question, what should be the percent of each crop and the seeding rate per acre in the mix? If you do not have club root issues, which would be true for say Ramsey County, then I was trying to white brassicas in the first mix, because if you have that, you don't have the club root issue in Ramsey County, for example, then you could have forage barley, oats, sweet clover, and then sugar beets to improve the infiltration of water. It should be susceptible to club root because sugar beets is not a rathica either. Sugar beets, whatever I've heard from or plant pathologies is it's a brassica, so you should white it. It's not a rathica, sugar beets not a rathica. Okay, sorry, then I'm mixing it up. Sorry, can I turn it from reddish? Okay, turn it from reddish and kale. Okay, sorry. Yeah, sugar beets not a rathica. Yeah, and then grazing and haying, if you have late frost, then it's oats, peas, and now I'm talking about land which doesn't have any salt issues. So oats and peas and millet, and then chickpeas. We tried cow peas last year. It didn't work out good. In the areas where you have early frost, we found out that kale is very frost tolerant. So I replaced chickpeas with kale in there. And this is a journal mix, forage barley, millet, forage peas, and sugar beet. But after hearing you, Marisol, that sorghum would use more water, I probably would replace millet with sorghum. Yeah, sorghum, so for preventive plant situations, I like sorghum, because you need to move water. And I know some people don't like sorghum because of toxicity for grazing, but really when you have sorghum in a mix, the chances of toxicity for the animals is very low. So it's more people are really scared of sorghum, but really it is a great crop, and in a mix, it will do a lot for moving water. That's why I was thinking on sunflower and sorghum, because so the type of roots that in the biomass they produce and they move a lot of water. And sorghum is also really good with wheat suppression. I have a student doing a research on that, and where all the mixes they had, two to five pounds of sorghum, there was no wheat. No wheat. Regardless of what else was in the mix. I think sorghum will take over the mix. My student analyzed all these mixes with sorghum, up two pounds or three pounds. And in all the mixes, sorghum end up being 60 to 70% of the biomass independently. What else you put in there? A millet is a lot shorter and less competitive, but it's a good forage and doesn't have toxicity. That's why people like it too. And I think sorghum has a good use for prevent the planting. So then Joe, let's ask you a question on, are there any cover crop species that really concern you as far as becoming a weed or things that you would like people to stay away from? Well, millets on my hit list after last year. Yeah, I was gonna say. They brought the polymer amaranth. Yeah, so I'm sure most people, the names I recognize on this call are aware, but we did have several fields last year in the South Central part of the state where polymer amaranth popped up in millet. I don't know the investigation parts on the Department of Ag, so I don't know if they figured out if it was a certain company, a certain variety, any of that I don't know. But it all seemed to be the fields I walked were foxtail millet fields, which is consistent with where Palmer popped up in Indiana and Delaware last year in millet fields were some foxtail millets. Now, how contaminated they'll be this year compared to last year? It's hard to tell. I'm always more concerned when there's a large national demand for cover crops like last year when the I States were very high on cover crop or prevent plant and cover crop acres, but it could also be regional. So if we're gonna have high regional demand, it's really difficult to tell the quality of the seed. So millet is a little concerning because of the potential for Palmer, but you can, I think there are some certified varieties out there that should be screened for the presence of noxious weeds. As far as contaminants, that would be high on my list. Other ones to avoid just because they can become a bugger in subsequent years. I'm not a fan of annual ryegrass or even some of the betches. Betches are okay as long as you terminate them, but if you miss that termination window, then you've got a new weed to deal with for the next 10 years. Like this winter, you know, I have saw my plots of cover crop. This winter we had a snow right before the cold. So it survived completely. It's flowering and it's gonna be seeding. No plant, you know, this year is the first year and I think I only just saw the plots. I've never had so many crop surviving this winter, you know, crimson clover survived, even turnip survived in their flowering. You know, I've never had that before, but it's not so bad, but it's a mat, a green, and a flowering, so they're gonna set seed. So for a farmer, that would be dangerous. That would be dangerous because once that seed is in the soil, it will have a flower. So I agree with you. Yeah, I don't know what happened. The problem is with foxy amelid is the seed production area is in the south where they do have problem. And since this amelid seed is small, then they have trouble separating it. And so I don't think it's a problem in the southern because the southern production in the southern is so much taller. The head, when they harvest the seed, they also produce it in the south, but the panicle of the sorghum is much higher above the ground. So let's just get wheat seeds into the harvest. Like you know, the panicle is kind of bent down and they're only like two feet, two and a half feet from the ground. So I think it has to do with that too. You know, the way they produce watermelon seed in the areas they produce it, makes the highest of getting wheat seeds in the seed. It's very unlikely because of the way it is produced. So I see Emily is on the call from Pulse. Emily, do you know what the demand is right now for some of these different cover crops as far as is millet and high demand and gonna be a concern? Commute it. Okay, can you hear me? Yes. Okay, sorry, I had to just unmute really quick. Yeah, so not quite yet. So usually a lot of the different millets, whether they're using them for cover crop purposes or grazing systems, a lot of the demand really starts to come around June 1st. So that should pick up within the coming days. And then normally continues through like the 15th to the 20th of June. So we're not quite there yet. We've, I would say in a more normal year, we would have had more interest at this point, but I just think with the way things went last year with crops not being harvested, spring getting laid to a lot of different areas that the normal demand that there is for cover crops and some of these warm season forage or grazing mixes is a little bit delayed compared to normal. We do definitely have, I would say kind of just in line with what Joe was mentioning as far as the concerns with weed seeds in millet, that that's a very real thing. And that's definitely something that's just so important for producers to be thinking about when they're making their buying decisions, if they're deciding that they wanna go with millets. And one thing that I don't really think that a lot of producers maybe realize is, they can ask for samples of seed before they buy. There's very, very, very few people that do ask that. A lot don't even ask for the seed tags, but they can do both of those things. They can request to see a seed tag, review it, see if it looks fine, and then they can take it a step further and ask for a sample. And they can take that sample and send it in for the state if they wanna do their own testing. And I really, really would encourage people to do that, whether it's their first or their 15th time buying millet. It's just, it's important to know what you're buying, especially after everything that went on last year. Yeah, I did that with all my seed last year. I just got a sample and then sent it off. I think it was like 50 bucks to North Dakota State Seed and got the results back in a day. And it was really easy to get a sample. Yeah, I just, I felt better about it. Yeah, definitely. It's a great idea. And I know that some people maybe just aren't giving themselves enough time when they're finally deciding how I'm gonna do this. They might not have that seven days or up to 10 days if they're wanting to read German as well. So it's just one of those things that maybe a person needs to just get in the habit of doing that sort of stuff, but you're gonna need to think about things a lot earlier than at that point and make sure that you give yourself enough time to actually get the sample and send it in. But I would say like for just on the cover crop side, not necessarily if they're looking at grazing it. I think that the interest in millets is a little bit down compared to what it was last year. And I do think that a lot of that is just correlated with the concerns that are out there with the quality of the seed because you've got people that are thinking about using cover crops for preventive plant situations right now. But when it comes to them wanting to use grasses, they're thinking about things like even oats still and it's kind of late for that. But some of your cool season grasses people are still looking at. And then once we get a couple more weeks out here, it'll really heavily switch towards the warm seasons. But so far we're seeing just more interest in the sorghum sedans, some of the maybe smaller acreage millets like some of your prosos that people don't have as much concerns about. But every year is always a little bit different. So the tooth like supply of cereal rye or winter rye seed is that we have a question from Adam about how early if you're planting on rye should we plant it? And is that gonna be kind of a question of when the seed is available or is that pretty available now? So actually there has been, there's definitely a lot of carry over winter rye out there about three, four years ago. There wasn't really a whole lot of seed production going on a winter rye. And so everything, pretty much everything that would be produced in a year would get sold that year. So one thing that was really tricky at that time about the winter rye is you were waiting for new crop. So you were waiting for it to get harvested, conditioned and tested before you can move it. So that was happening really quickly. And at that time there was definitely some situations where people would run out of time and they couldn't get it planted. But right now this year, I mean there's thousands and thousands of bushels of winter rye sitting out there on farm seed grade. Past certified seed standards that's carry over from last year, probably even some carry over from 2018 that is sitting and ready to go. So no matter what your timeframe is on when you're wanting to plant it, I know that there's definitely good quality seed out there. It's just not new crop. And so then on timing of seeding, I mean I think we've gone in in June and seeded that mid June and been okay. Is that what everybody else has experienced or Marisol? Is that? I think you can. You know, winter crops don't like you and you put in too much in the summer, too hot. So the later you wanna wait, if you can, the better. You know, winter crops. But rye, you know, still that's okay even if you put it in the summer. But I would try to put it at the end of June if you can. The later you put in the summer, it's gonna do better. You can say winter crops don't like heat and they tend to lose some of the winter hardiness. So you might lose some of the standard rye you planted to work. But it's observation. We don't have the data, but we observe that. And that's a lot worse than the brassicas. Like Camelina and Canola, you do not want to plant them early because they will lose their winter hardiness because of the heat of the summer. But June is okay, I think. But I would go towards the end of June. You're gonna put it right. See, so Jason says, another request is a list of cover crops and their relative moisture uptake comparing barley to sorghum to turnips, et cetera. Cause farmer are gonna wanna compare that to tillage. Yeah. Is there anything out there that exists like that? I remember hearing a thing from NRCS maybe. I don't know, I haven't seen that. I think they are for some crops. And we were measuring a spring uptake, but I don't think I've seen something like for preventive planting ability of moving moisture. I'll look for it. I see if there's something like on the sorghum system. But I don't think this been like, and that's a really great idea that maybe we should measure the ability of moving water, sorghum versus millet versus turnips in the summer. Cause I think a lot of the work is done on measuring water is in the spring with rye and with other crops, because we're worried that we'll remove too much moisture and leave the next crop like sowing without enough to get started. So I think the water things that we calculate has always been like spring. But I don't think we've done a good, I don't think I've seen a good comparison of cover crops, you know, numbers of how much water do they take in the summer when they're growing in the summer. That's something we could think about, maybe evaluating Abby or Naeem just to calculate that, take so, gravimetric soil samples and calculate how much water is moving. That would be good, it'll be a good thing. When I say the sorghum's going to move water, it's an observation thing we've seen, but I don't have the numbers, I don't have the numbers. Well, and I do know, I mean, everything that we talk about soil physics, you know, and tillage, it really, the heat transfers through that tillage zone, it doesn't go any deeper than that. So you're always going to have that bulge of moisture below the tillage zone. So really for drying it out throughout the profile into a deep level, you need some kind of roots to get down there. So like Aaron Day will talk about that with warming in the spring. The reason that like no till systems are slower to warm in a lot of cases is not just because of the residue, but because when the heat cycles through that soil, it doesn't just go through a tillage layer, it actually goes deeper into the profile. And so it has more volume of soil to warm at a given time versus like in a tillage layer, it's pretty shallow and it's just the heat is cycling and it's warming up faster. So I think really to encourage Jason that if they want to remove soil at depth and not just at the surface, then they need to be looking at whatever cover crop it is to be doing that. So deep rooted, like Marisol was saying with the sunflowers, high water use, just trying to get something down deeper to that profile to move that moisture. Maybe this like Marisol said this year if we collect some data and come up with a publication or a fact sheet because we could find the data for say, salt tolerance or other things. And I think I probably have seen some comparison of water usage, but if we could provide a comprehensive table for people, that would be wonderful. And it's hard to find like while we were talking, I was going through a lot of other stuff, checking if I could find something to show it to all of you. So it's difficult for people to go to different website to find one piece of information. So if we could collect whatever is already there and then whatever is not there, try to come up with that. It'll take probably this year for us to... I have my students are already evaluating 12 mixtures of sorghum base. I'll have them take gravimetric moisture to the, at least two times in the season, see if we can have some numbers for that since the experiment is already there. And we can take also a sample outside on the fallow area with no crop and see, and we have it in the Fargo clay. So that will be a good place to see water movement. You know, and so we're in prosper, prosper's really wet this year too. So I'll have, I'll talk to my student and see he can take at least two samples over the summer on each mixture and see we can see a different of how much water the plants are taking. Well, and I think too, as far as that website too that you're talking about Naeem where we post everything, we have a, I don't think it's a tab but it's on the homepage for prevent plant and cover crops. And so people can click on that. And I put a bunch of information from like Martin Sennag on RMA and planting dates and things like that. There was a nice document that was put together in South Dakota on why use a cover crop on PPE acres. And we could certainly put some of these other tables there too, Jason that you're mentioning cause I think these are good information to have. And Naeem, if you come across anything too just send me the links and we'll just post all those links on there and hopefully make it a one stop shop for the information. Cause you're right. I mean, you could search around for forever trying to find what you need with little success on trying to pull it all together. So at least I think the information that we'll put on that webpage will be stuff that we've vetted and that we agree is reasonable information and correct information. So you can look for that on the NDSU soil health webpage. Jason has had another good comment that he threw in the chat box. Yeah. So even just grouping the plants by low, medium or high moisture uptake to get some perspective. A lot of farmers feel if they worked their fields this fall, things would have been better this spring. I can see that. But when you're wet, you're wet, right? There's, it's so, I can't imagine what they're feeling, but I mean, a lot of that too. I mean, with water management, especially in these situations where you may not be able to do tillage in the fall like you've done in the past. You know, when you're doing tillage, you're not as cautious about the residue management coming out the back of the combine. And especially this year with as hectic as it was, I'm sure that a lot of residue was unevenly spread that, you know, I just think that there was a lot of, I mean, people just had to get the crop off the field. And so taking the time to do a lot of that was probably a challenge. And if you're not used to being in a reduced till system, then it's hard to know what to think about. But I have a feeling that, you know, a lot of those fields, if they were, if the residue was managed in a different way, it probably, you know, it would be different. But everything would still be wet though, I think in your area, Jason, I'm not sure that any of it would be dry regardless of tillage or residue or... I would agree, yeah. Yeah, another comment too. I know on the weed guide on page 115, you've got some stuff there and residuals and cover crops and things like that. I think I've also dug out some stuff that was on the wide world of weeds. It might have been in Joe's or Kerkowit's presentation. And then I found a link that Greg Endress had, I think that went back to 2016 in, I think it was in minor crop study. I think if you got, I think just from NDC Extension to also highlight some of those other things on your website would be good because there's just gonna be a lot of questions. And it kind of goes, just shows the research that you have done. So, because people don't read it as much as they should, but if it's not in this book, they don't find it at all, unless you're like a nerd like me that digs around and finds stuff. So, and Joe, I do have a question for you. Over your left shoulder, is that a lead zeppelin poster on your wall? That is a lead zeppelin cloth with a tapestry over my left shoulder. And that is why you are my favorite weed scientist, okay? Get the lead out, baby. I know, I like your logo, Jason, but I kind of miss all your album covers on your Twitter account. I love doing that, but boy, I'll tell you what, that was the highest stress point of the week at the after a year, it gets pretty tough. Found out one thing, if you have a consistent Twitter logo, you get a lot more traction. If it changes every week, people don't know what's going on, but yeah, I like doing that myself, but it isn't getting any more moisture out of my field, but it's still fun. So, we had another question come up from Adam. If I remember right, Flax is good for maybe adding organic matter, any others to look at? Not expecting huge changes just better. So, I'm guessing you're Adam, you're talking about your sandy fields and trying to get some more organic matter in those fields to improve, well, improve water holding capacity in some cases. So, trying to think organic matter, when does it build organic matter? To me, I think green manure crops, anything legume would be better than we are trying to build organic matter through crops. And Adam, you could also, I understand it, I don't know where your fields are, because I was about to say, if you could apply some manure, but if you're in Pembroke County and if you're planting potatoes, I know there are some issues there. You cannot probably, I heard from farmers, you cannot plant potatoes for three years. If that's the restriction, then you cannot apply the manure, but generally, if you wanna improve your, okay. Generally, if you wanna improve your organic matter through crops, legumes or green manure crops are the best. Yeah. I was gonna say too, you have to think, the reason you probably heard this about flax is because flax is a fiber crop. So, the fiber is very lignified. So, it's very resilient to microbial decomposition. So, if you incorporate flax straw or in there, it's gonna take a lot longer to degrade. So, it's actually not stabilized organic matter in the soil, but you can see that the straw, it is organic matter. So, and the other thing, flax also has a very good association with Macriza. And then, so it can move quite a bit of phosphorus from a larger area. So, it's an interesting crop to include in mixtures. Now, if you're gonna raise too, I wouldn't just do flax, because flax, if you produce a seed, you can't have the animals graces because of the oil on the seed is negative for the rumen. So, you have to watch how much flax you have if it's gonna be raised. So, I think flax has a place, but it's a small plant too, it won't produce as much. Now, all grasses, the fibrous root of the grasses incorporates a lot of carbon in the soil. So, organic matter too increases that way. So, I agree that legumes are good because you're putting a lot of nitrogen. And in the green manure, like name says, the reason is you activate a lot of microbial biomass because they have carbon and nitrogen to degrade. So, they will incorporate increased organic matter because you're getting a movement, right? Micro microbes are just like gas. They don't eat just salad, right? They need the protein too. They need the carbon and the protein. And that's why when you have legumes and grasses, they allow to decompose all that and put it on a more stable organic matter into the soil. So, I think green manure is interesting, but I'm more for mixes with grasses than just green manure. And especially too, like you're saying for potatoes or other crops, legumes carry a lot of diseases that my problems do too. So, you gotta watch for that, you know? They carry some of the same diseases. But, you know, I would say the soil scientists won't agree with me. I think there's a lot of talk about increasing organic matter, but to me that's not as important as increasing your microbial biomass. And that is a lot faster than organic matter. Organic stable organic matter in the soil takes years to change. You know, increasing one percent of organic matter might take five or six or 10 years for some soils. I don't know, maybe Naima and Abby don't agree with me, but I think it has more emphasis on making your microbial biomass to start working and be more active. It's really gonna make changes because it's going to help with soil aggregation. Organic matter is nice, but it's a big word and it doesn't change very fast. You can decide it with me, both of you if you want, in my opinion. Well, I think organic matter is as multiple pools. So, for me, the microbial biomass can actually be a pool of organic matter because it's organic material. So, I like to think of organic matter in terms of, I don't know, like 10 different pools. So, you're good with being aerosol. Yeah, that's good. And I think people think, okay, if I got one percent of organic matter, so I want to be in two, but that organic matter, they're talking about more of a stable one, you know? And like you said, there's a lot of pools. Even the straw, flax is not degraded, that's organic matter too. I think in your soils, Adam, since I've been in your fields, that I think are at least one of your fields. Some of the things I've seen working really well is when you grow peas or something like that as a cash crop and then follow it with oats as a cover crop. So, getting in that really nice fibrous grass root, but you still have a legume in there, a short-season crop and giving yourself plenty of opportunity to grow a cover crop after to build some organic matter. And you know, I mean, for me, I don't even look at the numbers. I just think you can look at the color of the soil and so if the color of the soil is getting darker, relative to another field, maybe where you don't have, have the cover crop being used, then I think you can be fairly certain that you're increasing your organic matter and probably increasing some of your ability to hold water in that soil too. I think it's definitely getting better already. I don't know if you saw on Twitter, I was combining last night and Dad started planting in the field at the same time, no-tailing beans right into the corn stocks and even for that 70-year-old Stoic Norwegian, that was a good testimonial from him when I asked him how those wet spots do it and he said, yeah, I'm floating right through it, no problem, must be this no-tail stuff. So that was a good sign. And that was, we had harvested about two-thirds of the field last year. It was going good on the stuff we had harvested. Those stocks were broke down a little bit more. The freshly harvested corn, he was just getting to that point last night and I had filled up the trucks that we had and it was going to town anyway, so I had to quit, but we'll see if we can finish that off today. But yeah, we're definitely seeing waters sitting in different areas in our fields versus where they have in years past and I think part of that is we're getting probably some better infiltration. We've got some fields are three years now, some are two, but the one field I've got about 48 acres that there's still water standing in the soybeans that were unharvested last year. That one's looking probably to go Pp the way it's ended up here, but that one dad had worked a couple of times and that one's just staying wetter. So I think that having that wet, that tillage is kind of keeping some of that moisture hanging on versus not getting that infiltration. Well, that's good. I'm glad that your dad said that about that no till, so. Might be working. Might be working. Marisol, coming back to your point, when I think about increasing organic matter, you're very right, it's going to take a long time. The first thing I think about is microbial population and diversity and activity. So you add organic material and microbes work on that, thrive on that, their population increases. So every time we add any residue to regular crops, grain manure, crops or manure, what I'm thinking about is increasing microbial activity. And building soil organic matter is long-term objective and it's going to take time, so you're right. To me, I actually consider them the same thing. Even though building organic matter will come later, but the whole objective of adding these things, manure, compost, more residue, which have slightly lower CN ratio, is to stimulate the microbial activity. So you're right. Like I found out that you could improve your soil water infiltration quite rapidly, say for example, versus fighting the pH, for example. So to me, microbial activity and organic matter material are not a separate thing. I just bunch them in the same bucket. Yeah, good. There's a question on using cobalt crops for remediation. I haven't got that one before, so... I just replied to it, because, Emil, I think I used to work with that kind of stuff 10 years ago and as far as cobalt crops to remediate organic and inorganic contaminants and dredged soils. That was 10 years ago, though, so I'd have to look at a list. But most of those species that are used aren't used for agriculture. I would add one comment to this question that I don't know about the plant types. And there are certain plant types which take at least, for example, some plants take up a lot of salts. And if you harvest them, cut them and remove them from the field, they would remove the salts with them. I'm not sure about the contaminants, but bioremediation is another way to break down those contaminants in the soil. So there are certain types of microbes which work best on, say, certain contaminants. So bioremediation could be an option for you, Samuel. First of all, thank you very much for joining us from Nigeria. So you could also look at solving that problem not just through plant types, but microbes. And I think microbes may give you faster remediation than plant types. Plants would take up those contaminants, you have to remove them, for example, from the field. And it may take years. There's microbes can just work wonder, break down those contaminants from, say, toxics to slightly non-toxic in the very same soil and then those can leach out from the fields. Sam, there is a lot of work on the energy crops, like grasses, as used for bioremediation. So they've used like things, I mean, sand dust and switchgrass, and it actually works very well. And since the biomass in that case is going for energy, whether it be burned or transformed, there is not a problem of having those toxins into the grass. Here, we might know why you see if you're gonna raise the cattle, you know, if you take the metals. Also, the other one has been used to people who don't know this is alfalfa, alfalfa is from data crops to bioremediate soils. You can take all kinds of contaminants, heavy metals, and a lot of contaminants. Of course, you don't wanna feed it with the cattle, you just need to get rid of biomass. But there's a lot of work showing that alfalfa is taking work really well. And they use it in many places to clean industrial sites of heavy metals and other organic transformations. So they add on those crops, the more cover crops that we use usually probably won't. And usually you need a crop with a large biomass production ability and numbers like alpha or some of these energy grasses. They produce a lot of biomass. If you look in journals like the Bioenergy and Biomass, you're gonna find a lot of work on bioremediation with energy crops. But I don't know, is there anybody who works on bioremediation issues? I wonder if Tom, we only have about 15 minutes left on this call, so I wanna make sure we get other questions answered too. And Samuel, we can talk with you about bioremediation at another point, but does anybody have any other questions that they wanna ask in the last 15 minutes of you can even bring up a field you have that you wanna come up with some options for? I think there's more questions. Or information that you need that you want us to post somewhere or bring to the next online cafe talk. So if there's something you want us to look into, let us know and we can bring it to the next week if you wanna log in again. Well, I think we have a, we have a pretty good list at least from Jason. I'm putting in a link maybe to the lead guide to some of Kirk Howard's information that he's produced. Let's see, I think Chad sent me a link to the RMA 2020 handbook that has the last four pages are really helpful for cover crops. Chad is saying exhibit four would be good to show from a crop insurance side, exhibit four. Why am I missing something, exhibit four? Hey, Abby, I just thought of a question that might be something worth thinking about or looking at in the near future. We get this question a lot and we don't really have the resources, I guess that we've done to be able to answer them very well. So when we get farmers calling in about cover crops, more specifically maybe on the talk of prevent plant, a lot of them do have concerns about the nutrients in the field if they decide that they're gonna plant a cover crop and they're wondering, okay, if I go ahead and plant this, obviously it's gonna help me with the moisture issue that I'm having, but what kind of effect could that have on putting more nutrients into the soil or taking nutrients away? I don't know if there's any way to say, if you plant this type of mixture that you could expect these types of nutrients to be put back into the soil, I don't know how hard it would be to kind of correlate, like this would be the quantity that would be put back into the soil as far as nitrogen or whatever it might be, but we definitely get that question a lot just with people maybe being a little bit apprehensive of, I know that I want to plant a cover crop but I don't wanna hurt myself on the nutrient side by the cover crop taking up some of these nutrients that could maybe be left there if I didn't do anything, which I'm not saying that that's right or wrong, but I just, I mean, that's definitely a question we get a lot is what's gonna happen to the nutrients in my soil if I plant something for preventive plant, whether it's a single species, a couple species that are mixed. Also, I think more so when they're asking that question, they already understand that things like legumes are gonna fixate nitrogen, so it's usually on the aspect of if I'm gonna go in and plant a few different grasses or if I'm gonna plant some of the different radishes and turnips that soak up a lot of water and nutrients, what kind of impact that could have on that field following year. Yeah, that's a good question. I feel like we're starting to get at some of that work, at least for the nitrogen dynamics that Franzen's doing with not a full season cover crop but with cover crops after wheat or interceded into corn. And we are finding that those cover crops are taking up, I mean, they are capturing those nutrients but we don't know when they're releasing them. So I know that for people putting cover crops into a prevent plant situation, I mean, in a lot of ways, not having the fall fertilization for corn going to this year has helped in some ways because you don't have to capture all that nitrogen now that's in the field because it just never got put down. But I think it's the long-term benefits. So anybody looking for nitrogen to be released the following year or concerned about their nutrients, the following year, they got to think longer term. They don't know what they want to hear, but... Right, yeah. No, that's kind of where the question comes from because some people want to see like, well, what are the immediate results? And it's usually that's really not the case is you have to come into it with an approach of okay, this is gonna be something I'm gonna work on for several years and try and improve it and a lot of people understand that, but... Yeah, Matt Rorkin, Wisconsin, he's worked a lot on this with the nitrogen and he gave a recommendation that if you have cover crops, you are not going to get a nitrogen credit for your next corn crop, you know? It's like Abysses, the nitrogen in the biomass of the cover crop that you see in the fall is not going to be available, it's going into the soil, so it's a long-term effect. And even he changed the recommendation like for farmers in Wisconsin, they have a lot of areas, so they apply manure. They say, you apply manure, you know, you apply manure and no cover crops, you can get some credit from the manure to the corn. If you put manure and cover crops, you don't get any credit because the cover crop takes the nitrogen from the manure and does not release it to a corn. So his new extension recommendation is, you have cover crops, you don't have any nitrogen credit for the corn. And that's what's happening, I don't know the audience, but it looks like it takes a while for the nitrogen on the cover crops to come back, you know, release the next crop. That's what impressed and is finding the same thing about Abysses. Anything else anyone can think of for the last couple of minutes? I can tell you've had a very exciting 45 minutes because I had a frog that my son captured yesterday that he released in my bedroom. Got it again. You know, Abby, I may be six feet tall, but frogs freak me out. I would be jumping on the bed. Hi, Wiley. Hi. Meeting, so thanks so much everyone, but I have to leave. Hey, you got a frog there. There's a frog, it's in the cage again, thankfully. Well, we'll do this again next week and Marisol, if you're gonna join us, that'd be great, but if you can't, I know you got other, lots of other things to do. I'm gonna cry, I'm gonna try to join. This is really interesting. There's one last question. Mixed data out there for that question. Adam, and just to make note of it. Sorry, go ahead, Joe. Oh yeah, the little pathic effect, it's kind of mixed data out there. It's kind of like with herbicides. It's a little pathic compound by species effect, but I think we can just let Adam's last comment float there on the chat box as we fade into the day. I think he's just digging on Hanson, but who knows? See now, we're coming back. Deep down, Adam does like Canola. Gosh. Well, we really appreciate everybody joining us today. I think this was great. I went a lot better than I thought it would. I wasn't sure what to expect for an online cafe talk, but Jason, thanks for encouraging us to do these for a leaper. We're looking at mid June to start these and I'm really glad that you brought it up to do it now. So thank you for that. And Joe for emailing to say, let's do something. That was good. And Naeem for jumping on to help us up in the northeast corner, because I think things are looking pretty wet up there too. So yeah, if anyone has any questions in the meantime, email any one of us or give us a call, but we'll be back here next Wednesday morning. And I usually, I think today I started the Zoom call by seven. So honestly, if you needed to get on earlier and had a couple of questions as follow-up for something you're thinking about, you can always log on early and somebody will probably be here. So anyways, good luck and thanks for joining us. And we'll see you next week maybe. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.