 Nunu Nunu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nunu Nunu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nu Nunu! Alright, extended version. Okay, first up. Okay, we've got an update to the 2.13 Tri-Color Ink Display Breakout, it's actually one of our first Ink workouts that we made. It's a very popular size and style, because I like the red highlighting. They've got. So this updated version is the same pinout, same size, same shape, same code, everything except on the back. We now have a iSpy connector at the top. So that means that if you would like to connect to this board without having all those wire soldered or header, there's now a solder free way to do it with the Flex connector. We've been adding iSpy connectors to all of our displays. We got through basically all the TFTs and now we're going to be doing the e-Inx. Next up. Next up, we've got RFM 69 modules in 900 megahertz. And you can see on the back here, different frequencies. And this one is the 433. It's got the red dot. So these modules are not Laura. They are like ISM band, packet radios. That said, if you don't need Laura, these are a lot cheaper because you're not paying the Laura licensing fee, the complexity. They're great for if you want to send messages between different devices. There's an SPI protocol. There's library code for Arduino, for MicroPython, for CircuitPython. Again, the RFM series is super popular. I can do FSK, ASK. People also use these to listen in. You don't have to use them for transmission. They're great for listening because they're also transceivers. That said, whenever people are like, oh, I want to have a board that sends this data over here, send data to another board over there. I don't want to use Wi-Fi or Bluetooth. I just want the packets to be sent. This has CRC management for you. So it does data correction and checking for you. Packetization, addressing, all that good stuff. So the RFM69 series comes in two frequency sets. 900 megahertz, 433. Use whatever is the ISM band in your area. Stop. Next up, we've got two lenses for the Raspberry Pi 12 megapixel camera that we put in the shop a couple of weeks ago. That's the camera at the bottom, and those are the lenses. And there's two lenses. One is the telephoto lens, and one is the wide angle lens. So there's two. This is, I think that's the wide angle. Actually, I don't know which one is which. One is wide angle and one is a telephoto. And the narrow one is a telephoto in the... Yeah, that makes sense. Yeah, this one. That's a telephoto. Yeah. And the other one is wide. The wide is at 120 degree. Telephoto is, I think, 18 degrees. It's very narrow, but it's great for far distances. So one is basically for close-up cats, and one is for far away cats, depending on what you're photographing. So I mean... That pretty much describes it. That's pretty much it. Well, they're both used for, like, you know, you want to take photos of something far away. Let me take this over here a little closer, and I can show the lens. So the lens is screw-out, so this is the wide. And you can see it's got that lens, and it's going to distort stuff on the outer edges, right? But that's on purpose. It's a wide angle. And then you focus it by screwing in and out, and then don't forget this is a raw... Like, you can kind of barely see the... Shh. See if I can... What are you trying to do? Yeah. I want to show the sensor. So there's a sensor inside. So you have to have the lens. This doesn't work without the lens on top. Otherwise, the sensor can be damaged. You can grab one of the slides, too, if you want to. If you want to try to jam the light down there. Yeah, you can go that way. Oh, yeah, that worked. So you can see there's the nice 12 megapixel... Ooh, there you go. The sensor inside. And then... Yeah, again. Whoa, too close. Too many pixels. There you go. You can back it up. So this is the wide angle. And then, as we mentioned, there's also the telephoto lens. Narrower, but the same threading. And again, you know, remove the protector, put it on, and then you can focus in and out by screwing it on, screwing it. That's why there's so many threads. So two lenses. They don't come with the camera. The camera doesn't come with the lenses. So, you know, it's an added expense, but you know, it really takes the camera up a notch. It makes it a lot more usable for this wide angle. Good for like security camera type footage. Telephoto when you want to take photos of far away birds or cats. Alrighty. Next up to start the show. Besides you, Lady Aida, our team, customers, our community is these ATTINES. Yay, ATTINES. We have two more breakouts for the ATTINES series. We already did the ATTINY 817 and this is the 816. And we also have the 1616, which looks very similar, except one says 816 on the back and the front. And one says 1616. These are a much smaller version of the ATTINY, teeny mega core, basically, they're very powerful chips, but they're very small and they're very simple, which is what I like about them. And we use them, you know, for this, I basically design these for my development because I'm making new seesaw breakout boards. Now that chips are finally available again. And it turns out that in some cases, I want a much smaller chip than the seven series. I want the six series, which is a tinier QFN chip. These ones, three volts or five volts, they run with up to 20 megahertz internal clock. They're very easy to program because they use UPDI, which means you can use one resistor, a wire and a USB serial converter of any kind, any kind of cable or breakout, just connect the RXTX pins through the resistor and then wire to the UPDI pin to program them. We use the Spence Condi, ATTINY, teeny mega core that for Arduino to do development for it. This just is our little development board, breaks out all the pins, you get I squared C. Like I said, one is 816, one is 1616. And the 816 has a bunch of ADC, it even has an 8-bit DAC, lots of PWMs, lots of GPIOs, and has eight kilobytes of flash and I think 512 bytes of RAM, or 256 bytes of RAM. And the 1616, I remember has 16 kilobytes of flash and has a whopping two kilobytes of SRAM. So if there's some cases where you want the 1616, it depends on what is available in the market as well. Like right now, I can get some of the one chip and some of the other. So there's cases where you want one of the other and the pricing and the availability may vary, which is why I'm carrying both. And I'm using, again, a seesaw development that comes with seesaw code audit. So you can use it as a GPIO expander. I've got a demo here. Like I just kind of put one together really fast. So the 1616 has a lot of SRAM, which means what I've got here is a Metro Mini, so at Mega328, and it's connected through iSquared C. So this is power. Move the power pins down because they're just power. This is that AT Tiny board. And I have the output of, whoa, it's close. The zero pin is connected to the NeoPixel data and then I have power coming from USB. And this is getting iSquared C commands telling it to set the NeoPixels that it didn't write. So basically it's acting in iSquared C to NeoPixel buffer. And then you can see here, it's driving these NeoPixels and it's doing a little rainbow swirl very slowly because it's going over iSquared C. So remember, it's not going to be very fast, but you want to drive 30 NeoPixels is actually just fine. So this one is the 1616 and I just put code in to make it, it has 2K of SRAM instead of either the 256 or the 512 bytes that the 816 has. And so you can actually drive 300 pixels or something or 200 pixels. It can buffer the memory for that whereas the smaller one can't. But we'll soon be doing some projects that do need a little bit more RAM storage and so that's why I've got the 1616. The 816 will do the job for most seesaw projects where you just want iSquared C to GKL or ADC. And then of course if you want you can always reprogram it with a UPDI pin from within Arduino by using the USB serial converter with a one resistor. And then you can use that as a controller for sensing other iSquared C devices. It doesn't have to be like one way it can be the other. It's acting as a iSquared C peripheral but it can act as an iSquared C controller. I mean it's a 16K 8-bit microcontroller running at 20MHz. You can do quite a few projects with it. It doesn't have USB but we do stick on a regulator so you can run it at 3 volts by default. It runs at whatever you power it with. One thing I get I like about it is it runs 3 to 5 volts just fine. There's ground detects, internal oscillator can run at multiple different frequencies and there's great Arduino support for it. And that's the new product. Just the new products. The lighting turned out really pretty on that. It's going nice. Yeah, it's very good. Alright, and that is the new products.