 What's up guys, today I'm going to be showing you guys how to value your Yu-Gi-Oh cards to tell if you are sitting on a gold mine or if you would just have trash. So a lot of people have been asking me recently, ever since Yu-Gi-Oh has gotten more expensive, people have been flooding into the hobby probably because of Pokemon as well, there's been a lot of people going back to Pokemon. So people are trying to figure out do I have expensive Yu-Gi-Oh cards, they're also wondering are my cards fake or they don't know their cards are fake. So when they ask me I tell them they're fake and they're like why are they fake? So I'm going to show you guys how to tell if you do have rare cards, if you have valuable cards or if your cards are fake, also I'm going to be showing you guys how to assess the condition of those cards which will help you value your cards. And a giveaway for this video, we'll be giving away, it's not going to be too good here but we're going to try and show you guys, Acid Trap Hole, Cyber and Dragon and Elemental Hero, Wild Wingman, all you have to do is like this video, be subscribed and leave a comment down below about anything you want. So let's get into the assessing condition. The first thing you have to do when you're valuing your Yu-Gi-Oh cards is you have to assess the condition of the card. So before you can decide if it's a $5,000 card or whatever, even if you know what set it's from, it could be from 1st Edition L.O.B., you need to figure out what condition your card is in. So you're going to look at your card, let's start with this, I'm going to use a few examples. So we have Shinado, this is from my original 6th grade deck. When we assess this card's condition, we look at a few things. First of all, obviously we have a large crease down the middle and that is automatically in my opinion going to make the crease of this magnitude is going to make it a damaged card. So no matter what the rest of the card looks like, it's going to be damaged. I just wanted to use this one as an example first because even if the rest of the card is pristine, like the edges are sharp and there's nothing on the surface, this will make it damage. No matter what, if you have this kind of crease, let's say it only went to, let's say the crease ended like right here and it's like that, then maybe you could put it as heavy play, even mod play if the rest of the card is really nice if you just have a very tiny crease, but one that goes in this far or one that goes all the way across, automatically damage. Our next example, a Cyber Barrier Dragon also from my 6th grade deck. If I was assessing this, let's say I just got back into Yu-Gi-Oh like I did a couple years ago and I'm like, oh, look what I have, I have Cyber Barrier Dragon. And I noticed, oh look, it's an Ultimate Rare, which at first I didn't. It took me a while, but Ultimate Rare, maybe it's worth something. Let's see what conditions then. So if you look at it, you're like, okay, it looks okay. You can see up here at the top, there's some whitening up here. So that's going to take away from the condition. There's some on the side. If you flash in the light, this is very important for when you're assessing card condition. You need to flash it in the light to get all the scratches, all the slight bends. You see this here? You can't really see this straight on. If you hold it like this, it looks like a good card. If you hold it like this, you can see it's bent on that corner. You also cannot assess a card condition if it's in a sleeve. A lot of people send me pictures and they're like, hey, can this grade a PSA 10? And I'm like, I can't tell you unless you show me under light, you show me all the angles, you know, you see the back here. You see all that stuff? If you look at it like this, this card looks pretty clean. If you look at it like this, you're like, oh, that's not very clean. So overall for this one, I would say it's like mod play, maybe even heavy play because there's a slight bend. There's a lot of scuffing on the back. There is whitening. I would call this probably closer to heavy play. Finally, I don't have an example of mod play right now. For mod play, it would probably be similar to this except it wouldn't have like the bend and it was horrible whitening like this kind of scuffing on the back. Now I would say it's pretty close to mod play, something like that. Finally we're going to check out the blue eyes white dragon that I pulled out of the 2002 10s. If we're looking to grade this card, let's say because I just pulled it, you're like, hey, maybe I should grade it. Why should or should I not grade it? Centering. A lot of you guys ask, what is centering? Can you please tell me what centering is? And I've typed it a lot, but typing out is just, it takes a long time. So I'm going to show you guys in this video. Are the borders symmetrical? What are the borders you asked? This gray line on all four corners is the borders. Are they symmetrical? What does symmetrical mean? I'll pop up the definition on the screen if you don't know. Basically are they even? Is this even with that? Are they the same size? So if you look at the top and the bottom, they are not symmetrical. You see how off centered it is? There's a huge, huge border up top, tiny border on the bottom. And then you go from left to right. So left and right looks pretty decent. Looks like they're almost the same. So you can say the centering on this card is not good. Because if one way is way off and the other one's good, that's still off centered. So not too good there. We're going to look at the condition on the surface like this. You can't really see any scratches. If you see a little bit of a, it's not wavy, but there's a little bit of a, you know, texture to it. That is just how the card normally is for an older card. So that's not damage. Then if you come to the back, you can assess this card like this. You don't see too much. There might be a little, little bit of a dimple right there or something, but nothing too crazy. Stuff like that could possibly take off a grade. Then if you look down here, you see that corner looks a little bit white. That corner being a little white won't necessarily take off from the grade. But if there is some like chips coming off of it, then that probably would. So that's what you got to check for on all the edges and the corners because those are potential downgrade. However, overall, this would be considered near mint. So if you're looking up the price on like TCG player or if you're looking in eBay, you want to look for a near mint copy, maybe even mint for this guy. He looks pretty good. I would say near mint would be something similar to this. It could have like a couple of scratches on the back. Not too many though, because if you get to a lot of scratches, that's when you get to the light play category. Light play I would consider to be no like bins, no creases, but can have some scratching on it. So let me know if you guys have any questions regarding how to assess condition. But that is how you tell really when you look at a rock card, you got to look corners, edges, scratching on the back, look at it in the light. Don't just put it in a sleeve and say, oh, that looks pretty nice because that's just not going to work. A couple of tools you can use if you want to assess the value of your cards. First of all, you can use TCG player. It's a trading card marketplace online that is mostly in the United States. I believe I think maybe Canada is it's available there as well. So if you are not in the United States, you probably use like card market or something like that. I think you can also look up on TCG player values anyway. So it might be a little bit different if you're foreign, but you can use TCG player as well as eBay. So I'm going to show you guys, we're going to try and value the cards that I showed you. Let's say we're going to go value the Shinado. So we're going to go to TCG player, we're going to Shinado, King of the higher plane. You see this option here, it's going to bring up all of the options for Shinado. So Shinado is not just available in one, you know, he's not one card. There's multiple options. So the one we have, I showed you guys earlier was dark revelation one. I didn't actually show you the code, but down in the bottom right here, there's going to be a set code. I'll try and show you guys. So we find dark revelation volume one, hashtag DR1-EN178. That is in the bottom right, right below the picture. So we're going to click on that and you see, oh, look, 646. That's what it's worth. Right? No, that's a near mint. If you guys remember, we value this at damage. So we're going to go down. There's no first edition for dark revelation one. So we know it's unlimited. There was no first edition stamp. So we see I have near mint already filtered. So let's give it off there. Let's go to damage. We're going to click damage. The only available copy is at 399. So does that necessarily mean it's at 399? Not necessarily. You probably want to look at other ones like, let's see what heavy play. There's one at $3. So heavy play is better than damage. So you know, it's going to be lower than the lowest listing. I usually use lowest available. You can, some people like to use like higher than lowest, but to me, if it's available at the lowest and no one's bought it, then it's probably not fair to say it's worth more than that. We have moderate play, moderate play at 350. So what I would say, looking through all this, just from TCG player, the damage copy is probably worth about two bucks. So just from TCG player, that's what we've gathered. We can also go to eBay. We can put in Chinato, King of the higher plane. Then you want to put DR1 or Dark Revelation 1, something like that. And you can get like a near mint value. The thing with eBay is they have to be available or have sold at, in that condition. So damage, we might not be able to find. You can look at all these different ones. You can also go, the best tool about eBay is right here, the sold items. So you can see what one's sold for. Here a near mint to mint one sold for $2, but it was with $4.70 shipping that comes about to about the 67680 we saw earlier. This is a first edition, so over 20, but that doesn't matter because that's dark crisis. So you can't really gather anything from eBay. So you can look at eBay, it may or may not help you. A lot of times it won't, but sometimes it can be really useful looking at the sold listing. So for a card like this, I would just go with an estimate of about $2 because there is a heavy play available for $3. If you want to add the shipping, you could say $4, so maybe like $3 for the damage. So something like that. The next card I would look at would be the Cyber Barrier Dragon. That's the one. We just looked at Cyber Barrier Dragon. We see this stands for Ultimate Rare. We have an Ultimate Rare. So you need to assess what your rarity is. If you search for the Super Rare, it's going to be all wrong. You need to figure out if it's an Ultimate Rare or not. If you don't know how to tell if it's an Ultimate Rare, then I should make a different video for them. So let's look at all the conditions. Right now we had what? Heavy play. So we're going to click on heavy play. See if there are any available. There are no heavy plays available. So we're going to have to make an estimate here or look on eBay. There's near mint, light play. The cheapest is near mint. So we know that that's probably the near mint price, about $70 plus $1.49 shipping. So we're not going to get too much data out of TCG Player because they don't show sales. They only show available. So sales are better than available because available, you can put like a $5,000 card and if nobody else puts one up, then you're the only one. That doesn't make it $5,000. So let's get into eBay, put Cyber Barrier Dragon, SOI, first Ultimate Rare. So SOI is Shadow of Infinity. That's the set code, first edition and the rarity ultimate. Put all those in. So we're on the sold listing. So we can go to sold 72. We have a PSA eight. That's about near mint condition that sold for a hundred. You got to be a little bit careful with some of these. Sometimes the, they accepted an offer through their messages or something. We have a $25 one. You can look on here. What does the condition look like? So the condition on this one looks. You can't really tell. The pictures are not good. So I'm not going to help there. So PSA nine sold for supposedly $200 near mint for $40. You got to look at the dates as well. So white play sold for $35. It was about a month ago. So that's, that's fairly recent. A lot of times you're going to end up, you know, not finding a price. And that's when you kind of have to guesstimate just based on what you have. Here we see a moderate play sold for $30. So a moderate play for $30, ours is probably like heavy play. This was also September, so it was two months ago. So I think that may or may not have changed. You're going to have to do a little bit guesstimating for what it is. So I would say probably just based on the very small data you got, we know it's worth less than $70. So that's what a near mint is available for. If you go down to like light play, knock a few dollars off than moderate play. We see a moderate play two months ago, so for $30. So I would say it's safe to say this card is worth $30 or less. So probably worth about $25. Normally we have a blue eyes, white dragon and the thing with blue eyes, there are a lot of different versions and this is where it is important. If you have a blue eyes, white dragon or any sort of card, you need to make sure you have the right version. So search out blue eyes, white dragon, there's going to be a lot of different listings are going to pop up. So there's blue eyes, shining dragons that we're looking for. So the set is from Legend of Blue Eyes. You saw that LOB in the bottom right of the card. Click on that. So LOB, blue eyes, white dragon, that's what we're looking for. Click on that. We had what we thought was a near mint card, right? So we're going to click on near mint and see what's available. We have one available for $117.17. This is from a seller with only 19 sales. So that is the thing you got to watch out for. Only 19 sales is like, they do have 100% so that's a good sign, but very low amount of sales. So you're like, I don't know if that's legit or not. If you see somebody like one sale or like terrible feedback, usually what I like to do is bump it up to the next one. So like, let's say this person had 80% feedback, I would not consider this the real price. I would bump it up to 139 being the next available. And that would be one aspect of the price. So let's say we did that and they have a gold star, which is usually a good sign. So it's about 139 from TCG player. And because we're looking at vintage card, we definitely want to check eBay as well to kind of average out the prices or figure out if that's correct. Blue Eyes, white dragon. I'm going to type in LOB. This is not a first edition. This is unlimited. So we have light play ultra rare. So you see this one sold for less. When it comes to blue eyes, you're going to have a lot of different versions like the reprints because this is an original. You want to try and find an original that soul. PSA 9s are apparently selling for crazy prices, which is mint condition. Ours is near mint to mint. So you have to factor that in because if it gets graded, it could be worth a lot more. Here we have a blue eyes. This is definitely a reprint one, but this one sold for $110. So because we have an original, we're definitely going to be worth more than $110 as this is an original and it's near mint to mint as well. Here's more reprints. Most of the time you're not going to see too many originals. $166. Let's see if this is an original or reprint. OK, this one. OK, first of all, this one doesn't look like a PSA 10 like they like they question, but it looks pretty good. It doesn't look like a reprint when I can tell. Oh, yeah, they see that corner. Yeah, not great, but that one's sold for $166. So it would be safe to say that mine is worth more than that because it's in better condition. So that was also sold a few days ago. So it's pretty recent sale. It is not perfect condition. So now you have this data you have. OK, $166 that that car was like very light play, maybe near mint. That's a little bit better than that. It's an original. I have low of $117 with low feedback or low sales. And then we have $139 with a little bit more sales. But this is probably a reprint. So you're not totally sure. So you can get to make maybe this card's worth, you know, you could say anywhere from $139 or $117 up to $200, you know, anywhere in there. That's the thing. When you are valuing your vintage cards, there's going to be a range. There's not going to be a specific price. You get an idea of what it could possibly be worth. And then when you put it up for sale, if somebody offers you a certain amount, then you would say, OK, well, then that's probably a good valuation of it because someone's, you know, willing to pay this. And I didn't get offered higher than that, especially with raw cards. There is definitely not an exact value to some of the vintage cards. But the new cards, you're going to be able to get a value easily because you go on there. TCU 5 is going to be a hundred listings. You can easily tell what it's worth with old cards. There's not going to be many listings and there's not going to be many available in the right condition. So you're going to have to do a little bit of a guesstimation, a little bit of assessment of the condition versus sales in recent times, stuff like that. When it comes to PSA cards, if it's a popular card, you'll be able to find a sale at that grade. But when it's not as popular for card like a blue eyes, PSA 9, you'll find a sale. But if you look up Celtic Guardian, PSA 8 or something, you might not find a sale for that unlimited or something like that. So that's when you have to do a little bit of guesstimation as well. I've gotten a lot of messages recently asking, hey, is my card valuable? You know, I've mentioned that earlier. I'm getting a lot of questions like, is my card valuable? How much would you value this? And a lot of times recently, ever since we've had a lot more people coming to UEO, they're sending me pictures of fake cards. And I have to say, well, those are fake. And they say, why is it fake? You know, I don't understand why it's fake. So I'm gonna make this video, I'm gonna show some fakes. I'm gonna show you why it's fake. There are a few different fake cards that you'll see in people's collection or on the market. Mostly you're gonna see this in someone's collection that was collecting in 2002 to like 2005, and they just have a bunch of old cards and they don't really know what they have or what they're looking at. That's where you're gonna see a lot of these fakes. Cause back early 2000s, there was a lot of these fakes out there. The main fakes I'm talking about, I'm gonna show you guys right now, they look kind of like real cards, but not really. If you know a lot about Yu-Gi-Oh, you won't fall for it. So this here is the kind of card you're gonna see a lot in people's collection. You're gonna see a card with the correct name, they're gonna have the correct number of stars, attack points, everything's gonna be right when it comes to the stats of the card, the name of the card, but it just doesn't look right. So if you look at this card, if you guys have, you know, if you're into Yu-Gi-Oh, you know this right away is not a real card. But if you're coming back to Yu-Gi-Oh, you don't know right away this is a real card. So let's compare this to a real card. Let's grab that LLB blue eyes back. So if you look at these two cards, there is a significant difference in a lot of different things. If you guys look at the text here, the text on these two cards is a lot different. So this blue eyes is an ultra rare, so it has gold text. First of all, the thing wrong with this, another thing wrong with this metal raiders, Harpy lady, is Harpy lady sisters only comes in super rare. So that is something I did get a message about when the rarity or the set number is wrong. It's not an error. Some people thought, oh, but maybe it's an error. That did not happen. They didn't have Harpy lady from, you know, Ferro servant. The only time that did happen is if you have a Euro card from like LLB, then it's gonna be in their spell ruler or magic ruler set. So something like that could happen if it's Euro, but if it's North American and it says it's from a different set, like this says Ferro servant on it, it's automatically fake. It's just not gonna be real. Second of all, they have the wrong rarity. Third of all, the gold on blue eyes, this is a gold letter blue eyes because it's an ultra rare. This, you see this gold versus this gold. They're not the same. They're much different. This one's super dark, super puke-ish looking, I would say. Then another thing, I'm gonna have to use this option. You see the text on the first edition? It is much different. You see how much thicker it is on the Harpy lady? That is not real text. The text for first edition always looks the same. So we have super dark and just big. It barely even fits in that little space they have. Versus here, it's a lot thinner, a lot easier to see. The same goes for the set number. The set number for metal raiders. You see metal raiders, that's why that eyes up pretty close, but it's a little bit bigger there. And the attack and defense just looks way off. The attack and defense text doesn't even look the same. It's much different. You can tell there. So for these, they are pretty close in terms of everything besides the rarity. The rarity is off. But other than that, they're pretty close. Then there's another, you know, the other fakes. They're just kind of memes. These most people don't think are real. Some people do, but most people don't. They might think, wow, I have a super rare card. I can't find it online. The reason is because it's a mega fake. You know, their secret murderer, our favorite from that fake starter deck, it doesn't even have the right name. It has some, a secret murderer holding a Secondo sword and reaching Devildom. You know, it's just some crazy thing. The tax in like the 12,000. So these are definitely not real. The backs are, I mean, just the crazy Yu-Gi-Oh. I shouldn't show the back on this one. The back on these is pretty good, this harpy lady. That actually looks really real actually. It's really glossy though, which they were not like this for the most part. Finally, the most real of the fakes. They're from LOB. They're only from LOB like this are here. So these, I can definitely see even someone into Yu-Gi-Oh falling for. I have seen a lot of people fall for it before. Really, when you look at the back, that's most of the giveaway. You see how orange it is on the back? It's pretty, it's kind of a giveaway there. But when you look at the front, this card looks really good. So let's compare it to another, a real first edition Curse of Dragon. You guys can maybe see the difference. Some of the same things we showed on the last one. The first edition text, if you look closely, is way off. I mean, look how thick it is. It is super bold. It's like somebody hit the bold key on word and just made it super dark. Same thing up there in the text for the name. It's a little bit off there. And then if you look at the set number, those are slightly off as well. Those are slight giveaways. And then when you get to the back, it's just, I mean, it's pretty clear and obvious. That was, that's just, John kind of know what that is, but see that orange compared to the real orange of the regular Yu-Gi-Oh card, it's just way off. So if you ever see any like face, you're like, oh, it looks a little bit off. Just make sure you look at the back. You know, if it's in a sleeve, make sure you take it out and look at it. Because the back's pretty much a dead giveaway. It's super orange. Anything that orange is not real. And they also have, you know, they have whole sets. They got, you know, I got a fake pot of greed here. So that's pretty much how you tell the difference between fakes from 2002 and the real cards. From then on, there wasn't too many fakes after that. Like people asked me if there was fake ultimate rears. I have rarely seen a fake ultimate rare. The only thing you'll see is like the counterfeit UDE Flame Wingman and Aqua Nios. Those were counterfeit. They were not actually fake. They were made by UDE, but they weren't actually allowed to make them. So you'll see those. They have a silver stamp on the ultimate rare. That's pretty much it for ultimate rears. Anything else is going to be real. They're not going to have any fakes. They might have a Euro print, which looks a little different, but it's not fake. I hope that helped you guys assess the condition of your cards as well as figure out the value. If you do have any questions, you can leave comments down below and I'll try and respond to them and help you out with anything you are confused about or struggling with. So thank you guys for watching. See you guys later. Peace. Elements of Hero. Dark Bright. Boom! Oh! Boom!