 FreeSalonEducation.com invites you to join us every Wednesday morning at 10 a.m. Eastern Standard Time for live and interactive classes from your favorite FreeSalon education educators. So grab a mannequin, get set up, and make sure to share your results using the hashtag FreeSalonEducation. FSE live starts now! You didn't hear my air guitar brush? Hey guys, this is Matt Beck from FreeSalonEducation.com and we're here with episode, or what is this? What show are we doing? FSE live number 11, which I've already messed up this morning, so this is our 11th one. We're gonna do a little regrouping, so we called it the season finale, but that doesn't mean it's over. It just means we're going to take a little break and regroup. I want to schedule out these classes so that you guys know exactly what's coming up when they're coming up and maybe we'll move them to once a month instead of necessarily once a week because what I want to do for FreeSalonEducation now is focus on putting out more content more often instead of just once a week. So we're gonna do shorter videos and get back to the old way that we were filming before. So just kind of mixing it up. I don't like to do the same thing for a long time if anybody knows me. I switch it up a lot. So we have a live model today which I'm really excited about. We have Teresa. She actually works next door to us. She wants to cut all of her hair off, so I think it's gonna be a fun experience. She also showed me a photo of kind of like a disconnected undercut bob, but what we're gonna do is we're gonna tweak that because Teresa's hair is she's got a low density of hair. So if you shaved off any of the hair it's it's gonna be too weak and it's not gonna have it's gonna fall really flat. So we're gonna go through some different techniques with cutting fine hair which I think will be really fun. So if you guys have any questions on the internet make sure that you post those. We got the whole crew here that can show them. We got cameras on this time too. So we have the whole crew and they'll be answering questions as well. They'll be typing in and they'll let me know if you guys have any questions also. So few things. I want to go through a couple things I like to do before I cut hair. This wet brush is amazing because Teresa hasn't had a haircut in three years. So it's a little tough to brush through typically, but with a wet brush and we're not affiliated with this company, but I love the way that this brush works on wet hair. So I use that to really just get the hair combed back. And then what we like to do is I'm gonna use a wider tooth comb just to I'm gonna work some product through. So right now I'm loving the brocado hold on gel for cutting with and I like the active serum as well. So I mix those two together. I start at the ends, get to the base. So let's work that through. I'm actually gonna need a smaller comb like 339 comb. Do we have that anywhere? So unprepared. Alright, I'll work that through with the wet brush a little bit. Then we'll go through with our YS Park 332 comb to work it through even more. Thank you guys. Team work. Oh geez, stabbing her in the head. Alright, so we're working the hair straight back and this is where I'm gonna start planning out my sectioning. So because we're working with the lower density of hair, I want to make sure that I'm cautious of the width of my sectioning. So before if she had thicker hair, I would probably take smaller panels. But because we're working with the lower density, I'm gonna take a little bit more off my top section. So we're gonna work the parietal. We got our first question, Matt. Yep. Melissa's asking, cutting with a gel, won't that gunk up your shears? No, it won't gunk it up. If you're cutting with a gel, I mean, you should be maintaining your scissors every time. So cutting with a gel is not a big deal. Will your shears have gel on them at the end? Yes, but you would want to wipe them off, but it will not affect. So hair shouldn't be dripping with gel anyway? Right, yeah. I didn't put a ton in. I probably about a quarter size in my palm. A couple pumps of the serum and that's it. So her hair is gonna be so healthy when we're done. Random side note that I learned yesterday about the wet brush. Yep. Apparently it's also really great to use on dry hair when you have extensions. A friend of mine, she uses clip-in extensions for like her whole life. Okay. And she said she just loves using the wet brush to get through it when they're dry. She's gotta be real careful and it just glides right through. Yeah, because the bristles are just so soft and flexible. So anytime it hits something that's gonna tangle it, it bends, so it doesn't mess up the hair. So you can see, let's go to this. Yeah. So right through here, let's see if I can put my comb behind it and see. The density is so low. This section, you just have to be very careful when you're building. Because if I start layering this right away, it's gonna be too weak. So I wanna build a pretty solid baseline and then we're gonna go through and layer the top. So that's what we're gonna do first. Even the back section here from the crown down, I can still see through that. So that's how I know that with the lower density, I need to be really careful of how I go about cutting the structure in. So I got my Mizzatani DV-20 scissor, which I love. And I'm gonna go in here. I'm in a section of vertical parting straight down the back. And the great thing about this haircut is you can, what we're gonna do, Theresa wanted the undercut feel to the haircut. And what we talked about is she loved the outcome of what the undercut looked like. And that's because it has the longer layers and tucks under. Her hair is already because of the low density. We don't have to shave this off to get that effect. But we wanna build up some weight underneath it so then this top can fall over. It's still giving it that stronger feel. So we're gonna cut two types of graduation. We're gonna cut a shorter graduation underneath. And then we're gonna let the layers fall over top. And we're gonna cut more of a blunt feel through the top of the haircut. So the bottom will be much shorter than the overall haircut will feel. It's weird. I'm so used to using a cutting school at this point. Do you like one? I tried to talk and it just didn't come out. You know what? Can you? Yeah. Yeah, let's get that. It's already warm for you. I know. That's real warm. It's real warm. Okay. Just for you, Matt. Warm, warm heart. Appreciate it. All right. Can we see? A cold heart. Yeah, Thad, do you wanna go to that? All right. So we're gonna start. And even as I go into this haircut, I'm looking at the width here and the hairline. So the hairline is weaker on this side and a little stronger. It grows kind of over and down on this side and grows straight down on the other side. So even when you comb it down, you're gonna see some of those things and you're gonna want to not use a lot of tension because you want the hair to kind of do what it's gonna do. So I may even just like tap it to her neck. So it'll do what it's gonna do on its own. And then go in and cut it after that. And I want to just see after I cut that, I want to see what it's gonna do first before I move on. Because this is kind of, you know, this is where you base your entire haircut. So I want to make sure that it is at the length that I want before I go and do the rest. And not only am I doing that, but I want to lift her head up and see how it falls against her neck there. And to me, working with this finer texture, I can take that even a little shorter just so that when I cut the top and I bring the top a little longer, they're not sitting right on top of each other. So all makes sense later. So we're cutting in strong line. We go in backhand, cut the other side. And the reason for that is I do not, I don't want to, if I'm cutting and pushing the hair this way, then I need to be cutting and pushing the hair the other way. Okay, I'm going to go high occipital bone horizontally and section the rest of this out. And we're going to work diagonal back, still working on a graduation. Can't see. How's that? That looks like it's going to be perfect. So we're still going to build up a graduation and I'm cutting short to long this way. So think of this as the line. So we're still pushing some weight forward. As we cut, we just, the key here is to make sure that your elevation this way is where you want it. So as I'm working through, that's going to be a traveling guide. Just taking a little bit of what we previously cut and elevating it a little bit higher. Same angle though. So it's pushing the heavy weight right behind the ear. And Matt, you want to just clarify where you're directing all that hair? Are you going to the center of the section you're working in or to the center of the head? I am going straight out. I'm going straight out. The only change is my finger angle. So my finger angle is shifted out from the head. So with that, if you could show the overview. Yeah. So typically around graduation, I would just follow the round of the head, but we're going to give it a little bit more of a forward kind of triangular feel because even though I'm taking a diagonal back section working with the round of the head, my finger angle is what changes everything. So as I get this hair back, my finger angle shifts back to leave that weight. So the weight's getting longer as we go through and cut. And the guide's really coming from the bottom of the hair. So you could really start this wherever you wanted to because I'm looking at my guide right here and just keeping that finger angle steady and off of the head that way. Traveling guide so everything is coming into my hand and straight out from the head. What this is going to do is it's going to give, when I blow this out, it's already starting to build up her occipital bone. And that's really what we want to accomplish with a finer fabric of hair. I don't want to just shave this because then this is just going to fall flat. I want to build up the weight right in here so that when this longer layers fall over it, this hair pushes it out and drops it back down to the neck. So that's ultimately the goal for us. So I'm going to do one more section the same way because I just want to make sure that it's nice and strong right around that occipital bone. So we'll go low crown, high occipital, right about level with the ear. Now it's going to change with the different guests you're working with, different densities. But for this hair type, we're going to go right there. All right, same thing. So I'm going to comb the hair back, diagonal back formation, directing the hair straight out from the head. There's not much to cut back the other way. Cutting round graduation is one of my favorite things because it's like it's easy, it's comfortable with your partings and your body position. So I seem to be more consistent with cutting around graduation than I am anything else. So this will basically cross over and meet the other side and that's when we'll be complete. Is there any questions or anything? No, not yet. All right. People are just excited to see the shape building as are we. Obviously, Sase Demayo leaves it kind of quiet in the chat room. Oh yeah. So yesterday we decided for Cinco Demayo we were going to go have margaritas. That's a dumb idea. There was a line of cars for three blocks waiting to get into the restaurant because I guess there's only one Mexican restaurant. There's only one Mexican restaurant that I think serves alcohol. Okay, so we had pasta and martinis. All right, so now you can see through this but I love how the shape starts to build out and you can see underneath here as we peek at it. It's not affecting anything. I didn't want to have like a strong forward feel to the shape already because that's how we're going to take the rest of our hair. So I want it to be nice and light. So I didn't want to push too much of this weight. So you can see because we're cutting the round shape it does have a weight line in here but it's not too heavy and this will tuck back nice because of the round graduation that we cut in there. Now also because of the graduation that we already put in the shorter one you could see how this will tuck underneath as long as we cut it at the right length. So what I like to do is just comb it down and then and with this we're going to just cut blunt all the way around the head at the line that we want. So if we want angled a little bit more we'll angle it but because we're working with a low density we can kind of have some freedom with just using our scissor to create that line instead of using a lot of over direction. So I'm going to go through grab and then we're going to sit on a cord comb it down. I'm just going to push with my fingers again against the neck because that will kind of show me where that hair will tuck in. So once I have it there I'm going to go through and make my cut. If she had a heavier density then I would definitely take this in you know multiple sections but again we can see through the section so it's okay. We're going to cut this square back so now I go from having the hair cutting it right against the skin to going in my fingers because the neck starts to move away so now it gives me room to have my fingers in there so that I'm not elevating the hair too much but I'm also I want to over direct it back a slight bit because we're going to cut this square square back there back hand a little bit and then once that hair starts to leave the neck then I put it in my fingers. Square back means basically I'm cutting this in line with my chair back and we're only bringing it from about the ear back to me because I don't want too much over direction. There's really no point to pull back more than this because you're going to cut it all off anyways. Now I noticed how you just worked your hand would you mind just sort of going over that to make sure that that stuff from right behind the ear doesn't get over directed to another spot like you kind of you brought it back and then just sort of shifted your hand to keep it in that straight line because I know I see sometimes people will comb that back and end up over directing it around the head into a completely wrong spot and just break that line. Yeah so this all comes straight back you don't want to change your finger you don't want to shift anything if we're trying to cut it square so all of this gets cut in line here so it's all coming back to you and we did a video in the past where we tape off around the mannequin stand so square would be everything is coming back directly to me I'm not moving at all. I think a big mistake that a lot of people make is they shift into this corner so they can see better and then they start to cut it and as soon as you cut that corner now you've rounded the entire shape so it's not a square shape anymore so I go to about the ear mid ear here and that's all I over direct back but like Brian's saying I don't just come down here all this hair comes back to me and in front of me and in line with my eyesight that way so that's what creates that square feel it's not too far forward it's not triangular triangular you know would be bringing all of this back here and really pushing that weight forward so now to continue this square feel we're going to cut this square because I'm not going to over direct it but I am going to change my finger angle a bit to give it a little bit more length in the front so we're just combining a couple techniques so my finger angle you can see here I want to comb it over top of the ear kind of push it in and just see where I want that hair kind of look at the line in front of our face so I really want that hair to sit right about here because I feel like that's going to be the most flattering for Teresa so let's go right here slight angle with my fingers not too crazy we're not trying to take this back 10 years Matt when you hold the hair with your hand compared to the comb are you holding it with more tension then I'm very lightly holding this so my my fingers are not even tight right now they're just there just to hold the hair in place but not there's not a lot of tension and then Stuart asks is cutting your graduation first cause a different result than if you were to cut your length first and then cut the graduation I don't know if I know what he means I think how like you determined your length by cutting the graduation like you went straight into rather than lopping it all off because it was so long and then doing the graduation you know what I mean okay um yeah it doesn't make a difference to me I don't think it does I like taking all the hair off at the same time because I would I would want to go through and do that entire haircut and then to do like the one length like I wouldn't just chop it all off I would want it to be like cut so that would be to me doing two haircuts right so this allows me to just you know do it all at the same time so personal preference I like just doing it all at the same time but you could definitely just cut the shape you want it you just got a ton of questions I know a ton of them yeah okay now if someone had thick and heavy hair would you just shave it underneath or would you continue with that you could definitely just shave it underneath if you want it but you just have to be careful of where like you'll notice um when people do it well most of the time they're not going above the occipital bone and the reason for that is they're building up that weight line just like we kind of built a fake one in here they're building up they're shaving it to the occipital so the hair still flies over top um you'll notice as I'm going through to cut the now the top portion of this haircut it's going to wrap right into the neck of her head because the neck of her head you know the neck of her head awesome um it's going to wrap right in because of the fact that we already cut that graduation so the graduation is basically telling the top of the hair what it should do when it falls so she wears it curly it's going to give it that kind of fullness to it which is how we're going to style it today um and if she wore it you know poker straight still going to have that silhouette of uh kind of a graduation feel and then tucked in towards the bottom I think a lot of our guests they get frustrated with uh even when they have a graduation uh haircut because they're always complaining about it flipping out or doing weird things the undercut takes all that away because the undercut is where all that stuff flips out so if you just take it away then they don't have to worry about it the haunches the haunches take it away from the neck of their head um right we have a question uh hey matt you seem to be elevating the hair with the first section on the side please explain sure about that one just how you were elevating the length a little bit like you held it out on the sides yeah I held it out a little bit but I also had her head tilt really far over so if you guys couldn't see that it was still me keeping it here but it looked like it was elevated out because of the tilt the tilts yeah so and real quick I actually like this question they said if they have larger ears is there anything you can do to add more volume so the ears don't stick out um like if she had some serious ears with that texture what would you do to make sure that the ears don't pierce through that fine hair with what you're creating well that's why I'm leaving a lot of weight you know like you want no matter what you need the weight in there um but you want to make sure that uh I think as we add in some of these layers that we're about to do that's what's really going to give it the fullness because we cut this blunt all the way up to the parietal ridge so that gave us as much weight as we could possibly have there um and if I left the top and left it all flat one length it would just be too heavy so we need to cut in some layers here to give it that movement but we've already cut a strong base so I think um that's going to be your best bet in that situation is to just leave as much weight and then layer throughout the top all right trees so which side do you like to right to left and the good thing about putting the product in before the haircut is we have been combing the product through the entire head the whole time so when we go to blow it dry it's going to have really nice even saturation of product on the hair now we're going to work in the back again thinking I'm allowed to change my mind I'm going to take it a little bit shorter because I can still see through so here's the situation so I can see through the hair so you can see uh the first graduation line which is our undercut part then you can see the second line I want to make that second line about half uh as short as it is right now so I want it to be just underneath of our current graduation which is a very simple thing to do um and you don't really know it till you comb that top over but I definitely want the uh the length to look right cutting through I'm doing the same thing this is what I would have done anyways so still cutting square in the back the reason I don't do the whole back in my fingers is because there would be um a slight bit of elevation and you'd see it start to kind of layer up and you want it to really lay nice and blunt along the neckline yeah I like that length more Matt what factors do you need to take into consideration when creating an undercut um I think I mean I think we've kind of gone over all the factors you need to look at hair density to base how short you're going to take the undercut and where you're going to section it so um that's definitely the key thing to worry about I wouldn't wouldn't think there's much else you know um they even with an undercut they can still wear a ponytail they can still do a lot of things so I don't think it really affects their daily styling um in a negative way I think it makes it easier um so I would just really focus on the density and and go from there all right now we're going to start working this line here I can see so here's my from my cut before let me take out hey Matt does this look like a good angle I'm going to turn you a little bit now it does yeah so here's where you can see just from cutting it blunt on the neck that's the angle that you get so I want to work off of that I don't want to cut all that weed out um so my I'm going to go from the shortest length or the longest length I guess not shorter so we'll comb this up I'm working on a diagonal back section that if you can show the top so we're working diagonal back here so here's her part and then I'm just taking a triangular section out of the top right at the crown and we're working from that longest length over and I'll show you now that we can go to the cutting angle here so I want to continue following that to push that weight forward so that angle again we're working diagonal back but changing our finger angle to push weight forward I'll take another diagonal back section and I'm combing it to my previously cut section and this is going to push a lot of weight to the front which we will cut into that dry so don't you guys worry about it don't you worry don't you worry that someone asked does the shape of the undercut really matter yes so shape of the undercut is really important especially with fine hair and that's what we're really going over today um if you don't focus on the shape of the undercut and you just shave the undercut you'll see but you're not going to get how how this looks nice and full right now if that were shaved underneath it would just be flat it would be laying there and it would look really skinny right now because of this the fullness of this undercut it it adds that depth and shadow into the haircut and then also elevates the texture and layers out so it's really really important to focus on the shape of the undercut trust me if it didn't matter I would just shape it off I'm not trying to do more than I have to you know what I'm saying working with the same line I'm just working on the opposite side but my body position is staying in the same place because I want to cut short to long so I was pushing the hair here and cutting now I'm pulling the hair the same spot and cutting just and you have ferocious typing fingers slam those keys aggressive lifestyle so everything seemed pretty pretty clear at this point on the on the chat yep feel over directed everything back so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to blow dry I'm going to power dry it and then I'm going to use a wand iron to give this a nice kind of wave feel to it and then we're going to go in and dry cut it so I want to I'd like to cut it more with the wave in it rather than just so I can see the shape how and how it's going to live on her head so all right let's get started here I do a little bit of spray first this will just help helps with the drying and it helps with the frizz gives us a little hold do we have a wand it's another thing I didn't so to keep the volume in Teresa's hair I want to just use my hands power dry this work in the front or the top back and forth you could use a round brush too if you want but I don't think you necessarily have to but I love already you can see how that underneath just pushes the longer hair out that's good thank you thank you guys thank you thank you teamwork don't worry Ray we got so I'm just going to quickly go through here what I like about this type of haircut is it can be really undone I think the more undone it is the better it looks so we'll go through and just take some big sections just some wave to it I think this is something you know simple that you can teach any client to do as well you know just grabbing some hair and wrapping it around the the iron just to add a little bit of wave and movement to the hair if you want more volume on top would you have to cut some layers there's and there are more I did cut a lot of layering actually so and we're going to cut a little bit more as it dries so you don't want to overlay her but as long as there's structure in the haircut you're going to get a nice amount of volume so just really make sure that your elevation makes sense for where you're out in the head you don't want to collapse anything really on fine hair if you're looking for volume so if you end up in a point where you're really layering or even concave layering the haircut it's going to collapse too much so everything we did was really building up weight barely removing any weight within the haircut so just kind of shifting it to where we wanted it so so places that we removed weight were you know the important spots like underneath here we took this weight out but we shifted it anytime you take weight from somewhere you push it somewhere else in a haircut so we took the weight from here from the bottom and pushed it up to the occipital bone and then on the top here we removed it from the crown area um but pushed it to the front and to the sides so that's really you know anytime just remember that anytime you remove weight from somewhere you're just pushing it somewhere else so it's you want to know where you're pushing it to and ask why you're curling it before you dry cut it um because i'm pretty much done so uh i'm not really worried about any of the structure i'll probably just lighten up some areas that look too heavy when it's curly um but for the most part i'm done so if i had a lot more to cut then i would blow a dry smooth and cut it so i could see you know the lines or whatever but at this point i'm pretty much done with the haircut pretty much the only parts i can see that i'm even going to cut is right in the very front some of this i don't want it to be as as long as it is how many people do we have joining us this morning okay three in the salon or in the chat room in the chat room cool and i just love i mean she has pretty fine hair and you can see it how much that builds out that's why the undercut works but like we were just saying it's really important to focus on the shape of the undercut to give it that lift in the back now matt can you explain the difference between when you are doing dry cutting on curly hair or with some texture and when um you're doing it on straight hair why sometimes you flat iron it so it's as straight as possible but in this instance it's okay to do it on curly hair for dry cutting yeah so like i said i'm done with the haircut um if i if i wasn't done for the most part then i would blow a dry straight when you see me do that it's usually because i haven't cut the top at all i haven't done anything this haircut is going to be worn with some texture um you know and we wouldn't want treisa to flat iron this every day because it's going to look smaller so there's no reason for me to cut it that way because it's not how she's going to wear it so i just wanted to curl it up and then all i'm going to put the feather in the ends i think once you guys see me cut this dry you'll realize that i'm not really going to do much so it'll make more sense pretty much all i'm doing uh in the dry cut today is removing we over directed everything to here to this point so it pushed a little extra length into the front so all i'm going to do is remove a little bit of that extra length and that is all and i'm not even going to use a comb for it so i'm going to tilt her a little bit i'm just going to work the ends pop some of that like that so it's just softening the ends of the haircut a little spray all right then you take somebody that had very fine fabric of hair and you can totally make it full of volume soups fun let me uh we'll stand you up tree so we'll examine the end result here so if you see first off this is a huge change it's a really good yeah much needed good thing we uh did it before and after right but so so awesome a lot of you can see it in the camera what do you think kind of see it i know right and this is where she cries on national television now but we uh so i think it is such a good change for her because it it just makes her taller and you know it it brings out if we would have left this when i went back in and i cut it even shorter you guys can see it would have sat here so it wouldn't have been as flattering so this really um gives it that volume gives it the lift i think the big thing with fine texture is the shorter you go with it the more volume it will have because a fine piece of hair stretched out you know this far is just going to fall flat but if it's this short it's going to have a little bit more strength to it so just be sure to if you're going to do the undercut just make sure that you can see the shape under there make sure that you put the weight where you want it so that it builds the rest of the hair cut up so anybody have questions no the chat room's going nuts about how good she looks oh good looks fantastic awesome all right guys well thank you so much for watching enjoy your salon day we'll see you guys tonight hopefully on splitting hairs live at 7 30 eastern standard time this is we're going to do these live classes but i'll be putting out a schedule for you guys so that you can check it out on uh freesaloneducation.com so make sure you subscribe to our channel uh right here on youtube if you haven't already and follow all of these guys on instagram hairstyle dry day 2289 i am justin scott bad bonus and follow us at freesaloneducation thank you guys so much for watching and we'll see you guys on the next video thanks