 Hey guys, welcome to rotor riot and today we're gonna be doing some basic beta flight configuration It's been a while since we've done this and new versions of beta flight have come out So today we're gonna be using the latest version, which is beta flight 3.5 if you're watching after a new version has already come out there should still be a lot of similarities So stick around with us because today we are gonna be configuring our newly built CL1 build if you haven't seen the build video for this check the link in the description We built this using a lot of our new components including the 2207 acro hype train motors and our hype train riot control flight controllers So let's get this plugged into beta flight. So with any new flight controller I like to just have a look at the setup page and make sure that everything is kind of responding correctly And yeah, we've got movement here. So looks good. Let's go ahead and flash this with the latest firmware So I'm gonna exit out of the configurator and we're gonna go over here to firmware Flasher the riot control flight controller is based around an omnibus f4 target So we are going to select omnibus f4 and grab the latest version Which as I said is three point five point zero. So we grab that load firmware from online Oh, and I always like to make sure that I've selected full chip erase up here And that's just gonna undo any settings that come on the board. All right We're just gonna do everything from scratch. So make sure that's checked and then hit flash firmware and wait All right programming successful So we have the latest firmware version flash to our flight board Let's go ahead and connect double-check the I am user responding and all right everything is looking good So we are just gonna run down the different tabs on the left side of the screen So this first tab setup is just to like I said check that everything is working properly You can calibrate the accelerometer if you need to you can check The battery voltage if you have one plugged in or anything like that But there's not much to do here. So we will just move on down to the ports tab now This is where we tell the flight controller everything that we have hooked up to this So now if you watch the build video, you'll recall that we hooked up an RXSR receiver And then we also hooked up a smart port telemetry and then we hooked up a Run cam camera control adapter then we also hooked up video transmitter telemetry from our VTX Now those are four items and as you'll see here We only have three available you arts most f4 flight controllers only have three Configurable you arts and a you art is the the component that allows your flight controller to talk to another component So how do we resolve this? Well, let's start with the receiver. So there's two functions of that There's the s bus input. So we hooked that up to you art one RX inverted because s bus is an inverted signal and we made sure to do the Sotter bridge to connect the B-pad and the s bus pad so the the flight board will receive that inverted signal properly So what we're gonna do is we are going to check serial Rx for you art one the S port telemetry that needs its own you art and it needs the Transmitting pin of a you art and it needs an inverted you art so we soldered the s bus signal to the inverted You art one receiver pad and what we did is we soldered the smart port wire to you art one TX now normally you can't use a single you art for two different functions So we're actually gonna set up a soft serial and we'll come back to that in a little bit now Why didn't we use one of the other you arts? Well, there's two reasons for that The first reason is because we are hooking up of four different functions So we only had three you arts and we're hooking up four functions already There's one issue and then additionally the the other you arts don't support Inversion and when we were designing this flight board We had to decide how many of these these you arts did we want to invert and we decided just to to make the you art One receiver have an accessible inverter because s bus is the most commonly used function and for smart port The only other thing that you might require inversion for there's a work around that recover So what I'm saying is we're gonna circle back around to smart port and move on So another thing that we hooked up is the run cam camera control adapter Now if you recall from the build video, we hooked that up to you art three So what we're gonna do is we're gonna go into the you art three row. We're gonna find this under peripherals So in peripherals, we're gonna look down here and here we have run cam device We will click that and now moving on to the last component that we have hooked up That is our video transmitter We have video transmitter telemetry hooked up and that's going to allow us to use our flight board to configure the video transmitter So within the on-screen display, you'll be able to navigate through and change your your video Transmitters channel and band and power level and all that good stuff. So we hooked that up to you art six So you art six, we're gonna go over here to peripherals again And we are gonna select the the protocol that's appropriate for your given video transmitter My video transmitter of choice is usually the immersion tramp So I'd be selecting IRC tramp for this specific build We use the race day quads Mach 2 which I believe uses smart audio protocol So we're gonna select that and now we will save our settings and get back in here So moving on from the ports tab We're gonna get into the configuration tab a quad X with normal prop direction if you want to run Counter-rotating props. I have the props spinning outwards rather than inwards relative to the camera You can click that here and then make sure to adjust your BL heli settings to to mash up with that But I'm just gonna leave it normal now getting down into system configuration We're going to set our our loop frequencies So we already have the gyro updating at 8k, but we can because we have high-speed D-shot capable ESC is hooked up. We're gonna be able to run the PID loop faster as well So we are gonna select eight kilohertz for the PID loop So now we're running 8k 8k and now here we can see the list of sensors that may or may not pertain to us the riot control doesn't even feature a barometer or Magnometer and there's just no use for those sensors in acrobatic freestyle flight So I'm gonna turn off the magnometer. I'm gonna turn off the barometer now We're left with the accelerometer on some people like to just turn that off because they they only ever fly in rate mode And that makes perfect sense Personally, I leave it on because I do like to have auto level available on a switch just for random diagnostics or in case of failsafe for Whatever use you might have for it if you look down here I mean my CPU load is down at 6% and and as we add on more features It's gonna raise a little bit, but as long as it's it's not getting too high We have more than enough headroom to to run our accelerometer as part of the loop So I'm gonna leave the accelerometer on if you want to turn it off to get a little bit more CPU performance out of it That's that's fine, too. This area right here. You can input the the angle of your FPV camera Now the only use for that is if you wanted to have the flight controller automate some of the roll and yaw mixing I really don't recommend doing that. So I just leave it at zero. It doesn't matter We're not gonna use any functions associated with that. So moving on here. We have the receiver section now We need to pick the receiver type now remember back to the ports section We selected you art one to serve as a serial RX Well to correspond with that we need to select serial base receiver now that creates another drop-down and we can Select the protocol associated with the receiver that we use. We are using an RS XR Free-Sky receiver, which is S bus protocol. So I'm gonna hit this drop-down and I'm gonna hit S bus moving on to other features here's where we can turn on some things the first thing we're gonna hit is Soft serial. This is what's gonna enable us to do the the work around to get smart port telemetry Input into our flight board and give us essentially a fourth UART. So I'm gonna turn on soft serial The next thing I'm gonna turn on is telemetry just going on what we were saying We're trying to get telemetry to work with the receiver. So I'm gonna turn on telemetry now moving on Here we hit air mode You may or may not choose to turn on air mode all the time and air mode is kind of a modifier to the the PID functionality that Affects how the i-term behaves at low throttle a lot of people just click on air mode and have it run at all times again My personal preference is to not turn on air mode as a feature But rather I will set it up on a switch so that I can turn it on and off using my transmitter The reason that I like to be able to turn it off is that if I want to do a skid or other contact move like a wall bonk air mode can Create some bouncing that you may not want So I like the ability to turn it off even though 98% of the time I fly with it on So I'm not gonna check air mode on-screen display looks like it comes checked on by default Which is good We do have on-screen display supported by the URIA control ESC sensor if you've hooked up ESC telemetry to one of your UARTs we're gonna use it for that. That's where you would turn it on I found no performance benefits to using ESC telemetry in Betaflight. I don't even really bother with it. The next item is anti gravity this similar to air mode is a is a modifier to the PID loop that also affects i-term relative to Fast throttle changes. I haven't found any reason to want to have that on a switch So I just turn it on as a feature so it's always active and it comes on like that by default So we'll just leave it and the last option is dynamic filter Which again is on by default and you definitely want that dynamic filter is an awesome function of Betaflight It's constantly looking at the gyro signal and looking for noise and filtering that out So that your flight controller is only responding to the movement and not to vibration. It's not a perfect science But it does a really great job. Okay, we have another column. So I'm gonna go back up here to the top ESC motor features. Here's where we're gonna pick our ESC motor protocol The default is brushed for some reason and no we don't want that. What we want is D shot 1200 because again, we are using BLHeli 32-bit ESC as it can support that if you're not using a 32-bit ESC you might want to run D shot 300, D shot 600 But we'll get away with 1200 just fine and here is where you will set your motor idle throttle value The default of 4.5% is fine. Maybe you want to lower maybe a little higher I'm just gonna leave it for now if if when you looked at the setup page if Roll or pitch was reversed or if you've had to mount the board upside down or at an angle or whatever Using this area here board and sensor alignment. That's reading compensate for that But we mounted the board with the arrow pointing toward the nose as it should be so there's no sensor alignment required So we're just gonna leave all those zeros Jumping down here to arming default is 25. I highly Recommend you change this to 180. This is going to allow you to arm your quad no matter what angle it's at So say you get stuck in a tree and you're upside down You're gonna still be able to arm the motors and try to shake yourself out Whereas if you left it at the default 25 degrees unless your quad is pretty much flat You're not gonna be able to arm your quad. So it's a safety thing So just be be extra precautious that you are only hitting your arm switch when the quad is on the ground ready to take off And that's gonna give you the ability to maybe shake yourself out of some trees RSSI single strength of using analog output. You can use it for that, but we're not doing that We're not doing 3d. We're not doing GPS. We already covered the other feature section. So now we're at the D-Shot beacon configuration You can select one of five different tones. Sometimes I've honestly found that Beacon tone number one doesn't work for some reason. I always just like pick three I think stinger swarm uses five doesn't matter. It's personal preference It just changes the the pitch of your if your motor beeps Because with D-Shot you have D-Shot commands available things like turtle mode and beepers So we don't hook up beepers the more you don't need to hook up a beeper You can actually use your motors as a beeper, which is really cool And I'm going to check both of these functions Which is going to ensure that our motors are able to serve as a beeper when we hit the AUX channel for it and that the motors will beep in the case of a failsafe So just check both of those now this last long section for beeper This just applies to an actual beeper if you solder it to your fly controller, which again We're not using so it doesn't matter what I check or don't check and that concludes everything We're gonna do on the configuration page. So I'm gonna save and reboot. All right So finally, we're gonna resolve the whole free sky telemetry with smart port thing. So remember what we did in configuration we Enabled soft serial. So now what we need to do is we need to assign a Soft serial UART to a pin. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna jump all the way to CLI So what you're going to need to type in here is resource Serial underscore TX 11 A zero nine and then hit enter and this is going to assign the soft serial functionality to the UART one TX pin which is where we soldered this smart port wire again Reference the build video if you want to check that out and the last thing we need to do is type save and hit enter That's gonna reboot our fly controller once again Now we are going to return to the ports tab and look down here We now have an additional UART called soft serial one What we're gonna do is we're gonna go to the telemetry output column and we're gonna select smart port Hit save and just like that We will now have all of the functions that we hooked up to our fly controller the receiver Smart port the run cam camera control adapter and the video transmitter telemetry So that's a great little hack to get your flight board doing lots of different things now We can move on to the power and battery Section in this section is where you can type in numbers to To calibrate your voltage and current sensor out of the box. It should be fine I've got a hypo battery here that is fully charged and you can tell because it lights up green I'm gonna go ahead and plug it in and I can see that my battery voltage is 16.9. I know the batteries charged to 16.8 I honestly I just call that good enough if I really wanted to fix it I could knock down the scale by one point here and that's down to 16.8 That's fine and then as far as calibrating the current That's a little bit more involved and is gonna require you to to fly a battery and measure the Capacitance that you've pulled out of it and recharge it and Joshua Bartle has a great video on that It's a little bit more advanced of a thing that I want to cover in a basic beta flight setup So link in the description to check out Bosch with Jardwell's tutorial on that if you're more interested But again out of the box It's it's gonna be really close close enough for you to be able to fly around and get usable information on your on-screen display So I'm gonna go ahead and move on and now here. We have Pids filters and and other Performancey things so I'm actually gonna start with the rates because For the most part your rates are fixed values that are dependent on your preference as a pilot So I have rates that I enjoy flying and and you can you can fly the stock rates and adjust things as needed you can think of the RC rate as drawing a linear relationship between stick input and quad Response and then you can curve that relationship using either super rate or RC expo Super rate will bump up the end of the stick response meaning that toward the end of your stick travel It will increase the drone's response and you can think of exponential is dampening the the response closer to center So closer to center it'll reduce the quads response. I I actually don't use any RC expo I just use super rates. So I mean here are my rates. I set an RC rate of 1.2 for Roll and pitch then I set my roll to 7.4 So that's gonna give me a little bit more snap ability on the roll and then my pitch I decrease a bit just my flying style. I don't do a lot of fast pitch maneuvers So I I just decrease that again personal preference a lot of people do like fast flip So just whatever you want y'all I do Totally differently y'all I will jack up the RC rate a lot. I'll set that to like 1.75 And then I'll drop the super rate down to like point four leave that And now if you look over at the rates graph What you'll see is the the red and green lines which are roll and pitch have a good curve to them So I've got some soft response in the center of the stick and then more snappy fast flip as I get to the end Of the stick travel whereas y'all the blue line is pretty linear I've got a little bit of a curve to it But for the most part y'all is a linear response And that's because y'all is is just a lot more passive on quad copters and and a linear y'all response is pretty common for Helicopter setups and I used to fly helicopters. So again personal preference I like y'all to feel linear and my pitch and roll to have more of a curve to them No real right or wrong way whatever suits your flying style Now we've got the P the I the D and the F which is a New thing kind of so you got your proportional integral your derivative and your feed forward feed forward Essentially affects your stick response. It's related to your PIDs, but it's more going to affect how your rates feel So regardless of how I set up my PIDs, I have a pretty stand I have a pretty much go-to setup for feed forward set up 80 And 80 on roll and pitch and then y'all move up to a hundred Again trying to make y'all feel as responsive as I can despite the fact that y'all is very passive on quadcopters And then while we're on the subject of feed forward down here in PID controller settings You've got a feed forward transition and that sets the point at which you meet that feed forward value I just I use point five. So at half stick travel That's when I attain the full value of 80 feed forward for roll for example again It's all personal preference. You're gonna have to play with it and find what works exactly for you This is what I use now your PID values totally dependent on the components you use on your quad It's gonna take tuning to your exact quad that being said sometimes I kind of cheat my PID tuning I found that you can just kind of bump up all the values a little bit and it flies pretty much fine I mean honestly stock values on modern firmwares fly so good. You can totally fly the stock PIDs It's gonna fly great. It's just tuning out little issues like prop wash and bobbles and things like that So you can use the stock PIDs as a baseline or you can do what I do and just bump things up a little bit So I'm just gonna do like 50 if Maybe not roll that. I'm just gonna do 50 55 I'm gonna bump the derivative of 35 Pitch I'm do 60 We'll do 55 on them. We'll drop this down to 50 over here We'll do derivative 35 again a way pitch needs a little more 37. Maybe derivative come down a bit Y'all make that 70 There's 15 now we'll leave it at 45 dude. That's total guesswork I mean, I'm gonna have to tweak things a little bit But I'm pretty confident that'll fly good if you're building a similar quad go ahead put these numbers in It'll fly it's gonna fly good You're gonna want to tweak it but I'm just saying the next whole section down here for angle Slash horizon that's if you're flying with auto level modes for acrobatic freestyle You don't want to be using a lot of levels. So there's no there's no real sense in tuning that the stock values are gonna be fine PID controller settings the throttle boost is a new thing. I don't really know what it does Same with absolute control. I don't I don't say I don't really use those settings at this point They're new features to beta flight. You can play with them Find whatever whatever you prefer for it for your tune and for your stick feel but again, it's a basic setup video I'm just gonna leave them stock But there are some features down here that I want to turn on so I term Rotation again, I'm not even sure what that does, but it's on by default and Joshua told me I should use it So we're gonna use it. So just leave that on V-BAT PID compensation this one actually know what it does. I can get smart again V-BAT PID compensation scales up your PID values as Your battery voltage drops so as you are discharging your battery and the average voltage is going down Your quad would get less responsive because it would have less power to work with but because your flight controller knows your battery Voltage it can scale up your pit and give you back some of that responsiveness. So good thing to have on Smart feed forward again preference thing new feature your call. I haven't played with it much So I'm just not even touch it. I term relax again a new feature Don't fully know what it does, but I know Joshua Bartlett home way to use it. So it's on It's what it is for anti-gravity. So anti-gravity is a great feature. Remember we left that on earlier Anti-gravity boosts your eye term as you move the throttle stick rapidly a Common behavior that you if you've been flying for a while that you may have tried to combat with your tune before is the tendency of the Drone to bobble on the pitch axis as you move the throttle Anti-gravity does a great job of getting rid of that the stock value of five is fine You might find you want a little bit more you want a little bit less Just gonna tune that dependent on the quad There's different algorithms that I can use I found that the new smooth version works Really well So really there's nothing we're gonna change there, but it's a great feature. So thanks beta flight for having it And that's everything we're gonna do for our Pids and rates before we move on over here to this other sub tab for filters I'm gonna hit save just to make sure we don't lose any of the work. We've done even though most of my work was just Blindly falling barred well. Anyways filter We're in our filter setting So the good news is there's not a whole lot that you have to do the new defaults on the newest version of beta flights They're they're great The only reason I even wanted to open it up is say that you might want to Reduce the filtering or even turn off the the second stage low-pass filter on the gyro just because on our riot control board we designed in a Soft-mounted gyro as well as having the board itself soft mounted So there's a lot of vibration filtering built into the hardware of the board itself So you can you can get away with removing some of the gyro low-pass I would probably fly it with the stock filter settings as is and then play with it tentatively You know changes setting them and test Harvard see if the motors are hot and kind of do it like that But I guess what I'm getting at typically when using a riot control I can get away with turning off this second stage gyro low-pass filter with no problems So I'll turn it off, and I'll just keep an eye on things the first time I fly it and we'll hit save And now this brings us to the receiver tab. So for this I'm gonna have my transmitter turned on We got to get powered to our receiver so we're gonna plug in our battery again And now we can see the response of our receiver on our screen we can move around the sticks And the first thing we want to check for is channel mapping and what we want to see is for our sticks to be corresponding to the correct bars on the receiver tab and Yeah, it's all over the place. So we're gonna check a different channel map Try the one label for free sky Nope, that doesn't work. Do the one for spectrum. You know it is free sky and Throttle is throttle yaw is yaw pitch is pitch all right looking good So what we want to see is that when throttle is down the bars to the left throttle up bar to the right cool Yaw to the left puts the bar to the left cool pitch down puts bar to the left nice and roll Left bar to the left Everything looks good. The other thing that we need to do while we're in here is Follow the note that they're providing us which is to make sure that the end points and the dead bands are set correctly So from stick end to stick end we need to see travel of a thousand to two thousand So let's start with throttle and we're seeing that it goes from nine eighty eight to 2011 so we need to adjust our travel in the radio. We're just gonna raise our minimum up to where it's at Thousand and then we'll raise throughout all the way and we'll lower our maximum down Until it's at two thousand like when they match, but on a lower quality radio like this You're not always gonna get them to match Just depends on your radio So we've made all the adjustments needed in the tyrannous to ensure that when our sticks are centered They're giving us a reading of fifteen hundred and at the end points they go from a thousand to two thousand The next thing that we're gonna do is change the threshold You're gonna want to set your stick low threshold and this is for throttle as low as possible What we can see is we're every time I hit the throttle all the way down. I'm hitting a thousand So I don't need to run as high as ten fifty, which is the default I can run Ten oh five you want to get that low because everything from zero Which is thousand to the setting that you define is kind of a dead band You don't get any throttle response So I mean I'd like to set it at thousand but just in case I lower this stick and I don't get all the way down to a Thousand I'll give myself a little bit of wiggle room similarly for this stick high threshold We don't need to give up power. So we'll set that to 1995 now RC dead band. This is good to take out any kind of jittering or an accuracy at stick center typically if I'm using a higher quality transmitter and my sticks all hold a signal of 1500 very reliably I'll run zero or maybe a very low value like four Just to soften up the center sticks just a little bit more but on this particular transmitter I'm having some trouble with the roll channel. I'm not sure sure what I could keep going through the settings But if you run into something like I'm having where you can't quite get it to hit 1500 reliably you're seeing here. It's outputting 1505 you take care of that using dead band So for RC dead band, I'm gonna use at least five plus a little bit extra So I'll type in seven, you know, I'm gonna type in eight just just because it's being Really annoying. Yeah, now it's stuck at 18 I think there's a bad gimbal in here honestly, and then you can set y'all independently if you need to Now down in this setting you've got RC smoothing you can set a different smoothing type Interpolation is the default. I think the Betaflight devs recommend filtering but I like interpolation I'm just gonna leave the default and We'll hit save Moving on we've still got our battery connected so that our receiver is powered and we're gonna set our mode So what we're gonna be able to do is as we go down for each mode We'll just move the switch that we want associated with it So for arm, I'm gonna hit add range and I want my arming switch to be this one So I move this switch and now it's assigned to Auxiliary channel three depending on exactly how I've assigned my switches and then I'll set the range So I know a cool thing to do with arming is on a three position switch set the arm to the center position That makes it really easy to disarm in case of emergency So yeah when this stick is in the center, I'm armed up is out of that range down is out of that range good to go Now for angle mode. That's a flight mode. I want my flight mode switch to be over here So I'm gonna flip that I'm gonna set it up so that when the I'm gonna do when these switches all the way away from me That's angle mode because that should be all the way away should be like the gummiest or the safest scenario So if angle mode is kind of more beginnery, I'll put that the switch away from me as angle mode Fine the next thing here is horizon mode beta flight. Please remove horizon mode is awful. Don't ever use it It's so unpredictable. It's basically auto level mode that when you move this stick enough lets you flip over It's so unpredictable. I think it's not safe Don't use horizon mode if you want an auto level mode use angle mode moving on We've got no need for head-free fails also head-free. That's maybe something you'd want for some weird line of sight stuff But no fail safe. That's for testing had adjust. I don't maybe that's for head tracking. Don't even know what that is Beeper we did set up our ESC's with D shot so that we can use our ESC's as a beeper So I want my beeper switch to be this thing. So I'm gonna hit save and now I believe so now when I flip this switch I Get the motors beeping so I don't have to add any additional hardware and I have a beacon so if I lose my quad I can Look for it. All that good stuff pretty cool stuff Moving on air mode as we covered. I like to leave air mode on It's a switch. So I've got my flight mode switch. So all the way away for me is angle mode, which is auto level in The middle position. I'll have that be kind of standard acro mode So I'll just assign nothing to that acro mode. It's kind of the default and then for air mode I'll have that I'm gonna push that toward me be all the way toward me. So on the ox one channel I've got it set up that all the way away from me is auto level mode I eat angle mode in the center position. It's no mode Which means acro mode and then all the way toward me is air mode All right moving on FPV angle mix I mentioned that I don't use it Don't recommend you use it. We've got some modes here toward a camera functionality That's not actually the the camera thing that we have hooked up That's for if you have like a run cam split that can do HD recording So we're gonna ignore all those and now that brings us to flip over after crash That's what we typically call turtle mode I like to put that on the same switch as my beeper because they're both things that I would use after a crash So all the way away from me is no functionality The middle is beeper and then I'll say all the way toward me That's my turtle mode save cool another great feature you can have but The way I've got my transmitter set up. I think I've run out of channels and switches, unfortunately Oh, you know what I could use part of this because I want to show you here's what I'm gonna do I'm gonna just set it up on the same switch as my arm switch So if I'm not armed it will enable this last mode, which is VTX pit mode that is an awesome thing that you can set up if you have a video transmitter capable of telemetry and pit mode What you can do is with the flip of a switch put your video transmitter into pit mode that will essentially power down your video Transmitter I love having this on a switch because when I'm flying with other people when I come in for a landing I flip that switch it cuts out my video and I'm not gonna be interfering with them Or if I need to plug in and do something and I interfere with them I can use that really great thing But it really only works if you want to have the mode set up and to have a high quality video transmitter That gets in and out of pit mode reliably and the last things available to us are paralyzing acro trainer Some cool features, but we're not gonna be using them. So save The motors tab this is where with the battery plugged in and the props off keep your props off We can raise our motors a little bit We've got them spinning up here and this is gonna let us check motor direction and Later we're gonna go into be all helly and we're gonna fix motor direction. So we've got one is spinning correctly Two is backwards. I'm gonna guess three is backwards and yes, it is and I'm gonna guess four is correct And yes, it is so we're gonna need to go into be all helly and change the directions of motors two and three If you want to set your motor idle low as possible Here's where you can figure out how low you can set it the motors are jittering at 1006 and if I raise them up to 1008, they're spinning reliably I would still add a little bit more So 10010 that means if the motors are spinning reliably at 10010 You could go back to the configuration tab and lower your idle as low as 1% I don't recommend that your PID performance isn't gonna be as great So I would stick with something closer to the default. That's 4% even though we're seeing that the motors are spinning at 10010 which translates to 1% Now I can unplug the battery We can jump into the OSD here's where we can configure our on-screen display the first thing I would recommend doing is setting the video format appropriately. So depending on your camera You will either have a PAL or an NTSC camera. Most of them are NTSC. This camera is so I'm gonna hit NTSC and what you see there is that it cropped the preview window in which we will be dragging and dropping Our OSD elements and that's really important because if you don't select that and you don't have that area cropped And you put something down toward the bottom of the screen It's gonna crop it out when you actually look through the camera So now with the crop in place as we need we can grab the items that we actually want to look at My personal preference is I like to keep an eye on my main battery voltage. So I'm gonna put that over Nya, I also like to see current draw I'm gonna put that right there. I like to see my Ma my milli amp hours drawn Because I usually fly 1300 or 1500 batteries. So when I see that that's reading like a thousand It's probably time to land soon. And the last thing I like to see is timer 2 which is total armed time So that can give me an idea of efficiency. So I just like to have the things down at the bottom The warnings element is on by default. I recommend leaving it on it'll yell at you if something is going on that you need to Be warned of like low voltage or whatever. Oh, and of course our SSI let's get that turned on Receiver signal strength indicator Got him. All right, I'll put that up in the upper corner here That's good thing to keep an eye on because that starts getting too low You should probably turn back and start heading back toward yourself because you are gonna fail safe and save All right, and with our on-screen display setup that really concludes everything we need to do in the beta flight configurator So I'm gonna go ahead and disconnect And I'm gonna fire up windows boot camp because the last step that we need to do is as we mentioned fix the motor direction in BL heli and Unfortunately, there isn't a BL heli 32 suite for Mac. So we've got to get into windows, which is really annoying. All right We're in windows getting our BL heli suite open to get our quad connected We've got our ESE is connected to our BL heli suite using beta flight pass through All right, our ESEs are already on the latest firmware. So we're not going to flash them We know we need to change the motor directions of motors two and three So I'm gonna right-click motor two. I'm gonna select Reverse and I'm gonna hit right setup Then I'm going to right-click motor three reverse right setup Now there's a few little things I'm gonna do to all the ESEs. I'm gonna get them all selected together What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna turn on a little bit of current protection So these ESEs are rated for 35 amps So I'm gonna set the current protection to 35 amps and theoretically that should make the ESEs more resilience to potential fires because even if your Your your your prop gets bound up in some leaves or something you're trying to shake yourself out You're not gonna draw so much current through a particular ESE that you can catch it on fire and 35 amps through four ESEs It's like over a hundred and forty amps I mean it's more than enough power that you're ever gonna get out of one of our lipo batteries So you're not gonna actually limit your power, but you should give your ESE some additional protection There's this other option over here called motor timing. You can set that to auto. Yeah, drag it all the way to left to get it to auto I couldn't fully tell you why that's an advantage, but Oscar Leang told me to do it I also saw that over here for PWM frequency if you're running PLA32 and AK-8K you should drag that up all the way to 48 Hertz write that and I think we're done. Oh wait. No, how could I possibly forget to turn on the LEDs? Yeah, most BLHeli 32-bit ESEs feature some LEDs so we can go ahead and pick our color We've got our red, G, green and B, blue since we've already got purple props covering up the ESEs We'll make them shine pink. So we're gonna turn on the blue and the red LEDs Right set up. Look at that. We've got some pink lights coming on here. Anything else? Oh, I almost miss break on stop. Turn that up to a hundred percent it's gonna Disarm your motors bring them to a stop quicker. The only other thing we could do in here is we could go into the music editor and get Your ESEs to play a different custom startup tone, but we're not gonna mess with that But while we're in here, let's triple check motor direction Spool them up a little bit. One is good. Two is good. Three is good. Four is good. All right. We've got Betaflight configured. We've got our ESEs Configurated so that concludes everything we need to do with the computer This quad should be flying really well. I can't wait to get out and get it in the air and Crash it as we often do. So thank you guys for hanging out Hope you learned something if you haven't seen the build video for this yet. Check it out link in the Description and also check the link in the description for store dot rotor riot dot com where you can purchase everything You need to build a quad just like this. I stay tuned for more episodes. I'm Ledrib and I'll see you again soon