 Two things that we'll test for today is we'll test for total home infiltration, so that'll give us our natural air change of the house, meaning basically how tight is this house constructed. And that's when we put a number to that, and that's what we're going to come up with today. And then the other thing that we're going to test for is actually the amount of air that's lost through the ductwork to the outside of the home. So in this house it's not a big deal, but if you have say like a slab on grade or if you have a lot of ducts that's above your ceiling or even below ground or that sort of thing, then you may be concerned about how much air we're actually conditioning outside of the thermal barrier of the house. Okay, one of the things that we'll look at when we're doing a duct blaster test is that we need to seal off the return air grills. And what we typically do is we'll use a duct mask tape, which is actually an eight inch roll of tape. It's kind of like floor mask, except it's just clear and it doesn't peel off paint or anything like that. It's kind of temperamental to work with, but it's nice to have something like this to tape over the grill. So we tape over the return side and we'd actually tape over the supply grills. I don't know if you can see that or not, but we tape off the grills on the front there so that when we do pressurize the house, we don't have air going back up into that boot. Okay, so we're going to start out at a .7, so we're at a positive .7. And now our fan is actually blowing air. Just to start spreading those turbo blowing air into the house. With all the registers being taped off, all the return and supply and that sort of thing, then we can go back and we can look at the duct blaster downstairs to see how much air we're actually losing from inside the house through the duct work to the outside. Right now we've got this on a five second average along with the blower door. It's a five second average. So we're reading at 25 pascals, positive pressure on the house. And with everything taped up, the air that's actually moving from the house to the outside of the building is now being monitored through this duct blaster. And so when we turn on our duct blaster, when we get to a negative reading here, we should be able to just touch it up. And right now it's showing that it's losing about 10 CFM. And like I said, it's going to jump around a little bit. Right now we're seeing about 25 to 28 CFM to get us back to a base pressure of zero in the house. But that done, that's really all we need to do with this. The rest of it is all blower doors, so it's all infiltration testing, which means the next step would be on an energy rating for houses to depressurize the house down to a negative 50 pascals. And so we'll go up and do that next. So right now our fan is working, so it's blowing air from inside the house to the outside. You let a blower door run for five, 10 minutes, then you can actually walk around the exterior of the building, all the exterior walls. And that's when you're going to start seeing some leakage come in that you can pick it up with a thermal camera. If we were going to look at depressurization, we can look at the ceiling. And we can see that the ceiling is nice and warm. We can see all the trusses in the ceiling right now. You can move down to the walls, and you can see actually the studs in the walls. Studs in the walls don't actually, wood doesn't hardly have any r-value to it. So what happens on this thermal image is that you'll see the cold coming through transferring through that wood stud. And then in between each stud is where we have the batting, the fiberglass insulation. And you can see that that area is warm, and then each stud has that cold thermal bridging come through it. So, and that's just heat transfer basically. Probably has a little bit of infiltration, but that's typical on a sliding glass patio door. All in all, the house looks really good.