 on a beer cooler. Basically it's not running. Complaint 60 degrees in there. Got here. Check the thermostat it's calling. The solenoid is warm so it's receiving power. We got 25 pounds suction and she's not coming on. So it's kind of checking to see where our loop pressure switch is to see if that's the issue that's keeping it from running. We're not in a defrost. The fans down stairs are running just not calling for the contactor here. Coming in, going through the low, coming across, go to the coil. The other side is coming through the high pressure control over and around to the L1. So we got a problem with one of our pressure switches. One of them is tripped either the high or the low. Not at the scene, 112. I did just check voltage on my coil from my contactor. It is not receiving voltage. There's the gray wire going to the low pressure switch coming off of one of the legs of power. Disclaimer, do not mess with electricity if you're not a trained technician or electrician. I'm not responsible for you hurting yourself. Do not try this at home. So anyhow, coming down there, coming back. One power leg there. Need to find the high. High is the yellow one. There's the yellow. Not overly impressed with the capacitor like it is. That's interesting. We're going to kill that so we can dig in. Alright, so we got the wire ties replaced. That holds our start and run capacitors in there a little better now. Did a little investigating. So the orange wire here is the high pressure switch. It's going from the coil to the switch, comes back and connects to the top of L1. The low pressure switch comes off L2, goes to switch, comes back and goes to the other coil. Anyhow, I turned the power off. It kicked on for a moment and then kicked out on low pressure. So either we've got an issue with that solenoid not opening even though it seems to be warm or basically it's just in time delay. So we may just have a faulty solenoid valve down there. Alright, scratched that. Went ahead and checked from the coil to L1 there and it is shown the 211. So we've got an open low pressure switch. So I'm going to go down there and see if that thing's calling. Alright, it's calling. Take a look at that solenoid. Alright, you can always put your key or a little screwdriver on there. Another thing you can do is put your amp clamp on the edge of that. And if you get an amperage, you've got a magnetic field. You can always try clamping it, but it's going to be kind of smaller. So it's not opening up. Of course, we don't have possibly the right solenoid on there because we've got wire ties and stuff on there. So I'm going to have to try the magnet. I'm going to put the power to it first. I don't want to burn my coil up. It sounds to me like it should be opening because it's got a good click. I'm going to go up on the roof and see what's going on up there, see if it's opening up now. I may have just joggled it loose or I may have something plugging it up, restricting it. We've got up here checker switch. Low pressure switch is open. We're at 28 pounds. The thing's not adjustable. If this is running 404, which I believe it is, yes it is. It's an evaporator of about five below. So that switch could be a little higher. Switch is right up there and I'm going to peel it off because I couldn't read it. It looks like 80. I'm going to go ahead and jump that thing out and make it run, see if it pumps down to zero or if it just runs low. That ain't good. Sure appears we're low on refrigerant or we're pumping down. Interesting. So we're still annoyed clicking like it is. One thing it could be is our TXV. I know it's always said it's the TXV. I'm going to try to see where my stem's at, maybe even try to warm it up a little bit. There's a lot of sweating going on there and generally sweating means metering. That would make more sense than that clicking like it does. There's no screens or anything like that and if it was just low on charge the pressure would rise up and then it would kick back on. The pressure is not rising up. So first we tried warming it up a little bit with a hand torch just a little bit. We didn't get stupid hot on it just got it warm enough that you know you didn't really want to leave your hand on it but so you're probably maybe 140 or something like that. 150. Nothing stupid. That didn't do anything. So I went ahead and cranked it all the way in until it stopped. I didn't crush it into it or anything else. I counted it in. I had 80 turns in. I backed it all the way back out 114. I divided that in half after about 57. She's actually working now. So my feeling is we need to replace the valve. Something's either in there or whatever the case but I didn't do anything more to the solenoid and all of a sudden you could feel it as soon as I started to crank it in a little bit. All of a sudden you could feel it break loose and this is hot now and that's nice and cold. So we've got a TXV. Finally find a TXV that's actually bad that we can actually show and that's what we've got going on. Generally from what I've read on Sporlin and a few others is usually the valve is sitting about the halfway mark so that's usually the starting point from what I've read. If you've heard differently you can always leave it down below so that's what we've got. I'm going to see what the customer wants to do. So it's coming down in temperature. We have to try to find a new valve. I tried the locals by house and nothing matched up so we have to call the manufacturer. So we're double checking a few things out here. It's a little warm out. Things look pretty normal. Cyclists are a little yellow. I'd like to see that TXV change and that filter dryer change. Should be good to go after that. I've got one on the truck. It's good for a half ton to a one ton. We've got our pump down. Our service valve left this open. Took the trader out. Valved it off here. That's going to isolate our suction. We'll be able to purge the nitrogen through the TXV. We'll embrace it in and pull a vacuum downstairs at the suction port for the at the TXV and then we'll put that straighter corner before we pull the vacuum obviously. But we've got to change that filter dryer next after that after we change the TXV. We've got our valve ready to go. Went ahead and cleaned it up. Got some of the last leftovers out of there. We got the strainer here. It's going to go up into here. I'll be ready to go. It'll be on place and then I just got to get her burned in. Okay, got her ready to go. Everything's prepped and ready to roll. I go to yank the Shrader core out of there. Look at that thing. It's all collapsed in there. That's great. Hopefully we can get it out. If not, we're going to put a brass cap on it. Got a little bit bigger dryer in there too. Got a no 83 in there. There goes the rest of it. We're going to let this thing stabilize. See if we can get down to box temperature. Double check the super heat. So we're flashing, which is probably causing us some issues with our super heat. We're running about four degrees. So we need to get that solid and let her come down to temp before we can make an accurate assumption of what's going on. But we're on the right track. Ended up at about a pound, 10 ounces area calculated. Comes out about nine extra ounces for the winter charge. So I went ahead and added it. So we're about two pounds, nine ounces. Staying solid. Super heat's a little low. Pretty much nothing. But we got to tune that TXV possibly in. We're running a warm box. We can't adjust it until it's colder. So we're running a 38 degree of temp right now. Kind of looking at the coil. It actually does look clean. See right through it. So head pressures came down a little bit. Plus that was the analog gauge. It must be off by a little bit. It's about 85 out I think. So 95, 105. They're 20 to 25 degree over ambient. So we're not too far out of line. All right. So we had no room in here at all. I really don't want to put the bulb way over here. Chances are the tube would end up getting hit. The best spot would have been right here. They got a solder joint there. They got a solder joint here. There's no room there. Back to vertical here. You don't want to do that on a trap anyhow. So you've got your equalizer tube there. You only got one coming into the side. So I've got the TXV bulb. It's far out as I can get it and still keep it nice and tight up against it. So it's not where I want it at. But right now, according to what I'm seeing, it's holding pretty good. It's 48 in here. It's dropping. So it's feeding much better. I will admit I forgot to hook that up. So that's why it was such a low super heat originally. So we're going to have to recheck the refrigerant level and make sure everything's still okay. But everything's looking pretty good so far. It's holding right in there about 10 degrees super heat. I've had a heck of a time getting that thing insulated. It is in there and not too bad. So double checking it up there. Everything seems to be fine. It's going to probably wrap this one up here. We need a coil in the back. Looks good. Like I was saying, I had about 10 degrees super heat down there. So we're real close to that up here even. Wrapping everything up. The sight glass is still somewhat green. It's cleaning up on that. So we'll put it into a pump down real quick. Make sure it pumps down. I just realized too, this is an electric defrost because it's beer cooler. So I'm going to switch that back to 30 minutes max. Put that into defrost, which didn't do it. So that's not good. Is it not cold enough? What's the story here? All right. So obviously it weren't cold enough. So I hooked the X terminal. It's just termination. She shut off when the defrost pumped down. She's holding there. Her head pressure didn't rise. So we can go ahead and put this back to normal and say we're going to wrap this thing up. That's the end of the story. If you guys like the video, please like, share, and subscribe. If you want to see more like it, please give it a thumbs up. And until next time, we'll catch you on the next one.