 I got a heat pump here that was freezing up so they tell me. Just briefly looking it over here. They've got a low ambient kit. All right so we've got to come in with our power from the board also paralleled on with the pressure switch going through the normally closed contact to the common of the fan. You've got the other side of the fan cycle switch coming through the normally open. So you're feeding power in this way and this way and the end result capturing it here is the fan motor. So the fan motor is either going to be powered through the pressure switch basically leaping from here down to the switch back again through here. This is going to be powered shut when it's called for cooling which is always energized and cooling and otherwise it'll come in the normal closed so that the fan runs in the heat mode. All right got the probes on there with these Bryant's carriers basically there's an orifice in there for you new guys so when this comes back through you can't go off of the traditional high side here for your high side pressure when it's running the heat mode because their meeting device is right there it's a fixed orifice so you've got to go on your traditional suction line which is now going to be your high side when you're in a heating mode then use your dedicated suction line there for the compressors. This is set for 90 minutes I will use that on dual fuel systems with a gas furnace but sometimes I use 60 especially where this is going to be all electric. Got our return dock and supply dock checking the temperature we're running a 101 with a 75 in so we've got a 26 degree temperature rise now that could potentially include the electric strip elements that are in there our pressures themselves are right up there by what we were saying they should be at so far everything's looking pretty good all right I shut the unit off and grab my booklet we're going to double check this out and see see if it's wired up right everything looks like that's set correctly you get a picture from the people that are working here and this thing was like four inches of ice on the outdoor coil so we're going to put it into a defrost to make sure that the defrost is working should have done it now my freaking meters downstairs I need to check that switch okay defrost termination is a normally open switch I don't feel like walking downstairs and back up again so go into our defrost switch pull it off short those pins together got the official official jumper on there to make it happen and she is not happening it's got issues or potentially the reversing valve isn't working suppose anything's possible first thing valve is right here we're going to jump R over to O which will put it into cooling mode uh-oh we're going to get in there and see if it's connected to it went ahead and tested the defrost termination switch it is closed which is what we need for it's cold went ahead and disconnected the reversing valve streak going down to the solenoid and I had about 14 and a half 15 ohms so hook it directly to R in common nothing happens check voltage to see if it's there and I don't have it so I need to go back downstairs and see if I can clone a fuse or what's going on just got checking and we've got power to the thermostat R here's a lone ranger red one going to the outdoor unit and somebody wire nutted it off so the next question is are we just picking up back voltage is how the outside unit was running without it I also noticed that the thermostat is still calling and the fan's not running so I've got some issues going on there so I'm gonna have to check our g terminal calling for g nothing's happening bypass the thermostat and the thermostat that's been damaged okay now now it works so we're gonna re-hook all of our stuff together and it's looking like a thermostat's bad and then I'm gonna test the defrost board again okay got it back together even though the thermostat I believe is calling the board here's got to build in delay because these were built back when they didn't have digital thermostats very often I'll probably help hook this back up too there we go yeah that makes a difference okay so that's running now we should be able to put it into the test mode hopefully a bad defrost board because we know the reversing valve at least energizes now don't know if it switches we'll jump this defrost termination switch defost thermostat whatever you want to call it whatever so it's not dead there freezing up already so it should my next use just leave it on there and it go into it and then come right back out of it or you removed it if it's kicked into it try to do something and just shut off and just came back on it doesn't want to go into defrost so we're gonna jump o to r and that also tests out that relay so the relay shut down the fan so the reverse valve does work we got us a bad defrost board as we originally thought that's the reason why the fan stopped because it's going through the pressure control there and the pressure control obviously is low right now at least until it builds enough head pressure here so it went into defrost after I cycled that reversing valve all right basically this thing's shutting off and turning on shutting off turning on I think your fan downstairs quit running again it's going off of high pressure so we're going to order a new defrost board and new thermostat for it and come back and get that on but otherwise equipment wise it seems to be working good so it's going to wrap this one up all right we're back to the heat pump with the bad board and bad thermostat so we've got the new honeywell thermostat on there we've got o wired up y g auxiliary are in common we've already went through and set the thermostat up so what we've done is going on through make sure that our r for the thermostat and the outdoor units connected together here common for outdoor unit and thermostat is here on brown auxiliary heat from thermostat and from the outside unit is on there you have o which is a reversing valve from the thermostat to the outside unit g which is to your fan for the fan to run when there's a call for heat or cool very elementary but just pointing it out since most of these videos are pretty well situated around the new guys that haven't done it so go ahead and figure out might as well mention that what they've done to this also they've added a free stat to this so they've strapped it to the suction line they put it in line here and then they broke why go into the outside unit so then basically this one here probably could have been staged for two different sets of banks but it's only 10 kw so they're just going to go ahead and run the whole thing at one time so basically one one bank or at least that's what they're saying is one bank looks like it's probably a little more than that maybe that's what it was originally you can also see that the transformer here has been replaced everything else looks fine so basically our original problem was one of the wires had pulled out from in here and that was not powering our outdoor board even when we did wire it back up it still didn't run anyhow so we got that done then we had a random g-terminal here that wasn't wanting to work every time so to get them by I wired r to g to get it going and basically today we're back to get this back in so we got a new thermostat new outdoor board the refrigerant charge was already checked and it's fine far as that and the electric strips and stuff work so basically I'm going to run it through a quick test here just to make sure that everything's working I went ahead and went with another Honeywell 8000 series it was one of the newer ones which is kind of cool we're going to go ahead and put this thing into auxiliary heat just to make sure that it's working boom auxiliary heat crank her up that should kick right on check our amp draw make sure all of our elements are good about the time you don't swim you're going to be coming back all right checking that element there right in there 21 amps jumping over this one 21 amps all right that's our total amp draw right there's 45 amps they've doubled these breakers up to feed them both and they probably unhook one element to justify it so there's obviously a reason why they've done that you go up and over air handler one checking the fuses they're 60s so that is all you're going to get out of that if you're running 20 amps per leg which really is about 21 you're over so it's not capable of doing all three so I'd say that's probably why they unhooked it and that's why we're running just two can't overdo what your wire is rated for it's tightened up all my lugs there they tend to loosen up over time so I always like to make sure they're tight basically everything's coming on now got the defrost board replaced nice and easy little deal one screw and it comes out got her running gonna see if she'll go into defrost this time finally I'm used to the Linux defrost board it usually kicks right in within seconds and you just leave it on there it's gonna run until the termination switch meets which it's located down there at the bottom yeah this sensor here is just hanging right there with the wiring harness they don't actually mount theirs on the refrigerant lines like some of the manufacturers I'm used to so basically it's in heat pump mode fans off because the board breaks the power to it as I've always said in the past anytime I'm getting into the electrical section don't do this at home so there's your disclaimer it kicks out of defrost that's great so I mean she's running good I've got it set for 90 minutes of accumulative runtime and that should be plenty we've got our wire nuts back on there for that sensor and got them taped just in case so they don't fall off everything's going to be cleaned up here in a second we're gonna put her back together all right I put it back into a defrost again this time I bypassed the defrost switch because I wanted to see if I open it up if it terminates immediately and it does so the switch is opening up instead of sensing it on the coil they're actually sensing it in the air stream which is kind of different than what I've ever seen it's going to be the time or temperature generally is how it's always been for any of them that I've ever seen which means you know maximum about 10 minutes which I know my linux stuff better than I do my carrier so I mean we sold it where I was at before so I'm going to wrap this one up you guys like the video please like share and subscribe check out the links description down below for links to all my tools I use in my videos and until next time catch you on the next one