 So, you want to create a landscape but you don't know how. Not a problem. If you go to selection mode and change it to landscape, you will now have the option to generate an environment. Usually the defaults are fine, but at the bottom you can change the size of the landscape with the variables down here. 63 by 63 means that each grid is going to be 63 squares long and 63 squares wide. If you change it to something like 7 by 7, then each grid will be 7 squares long and 7 squares wide instead. It defaults to 1 by 1 as section size, but you can quadruple the section size by setting it to 2 by 2 if you want. The number of components essentially determines the overall X and Y size of your landscape. And you can see the total size of everything here. When you're happy with your dimensions, just hit create. Now, once you've created a landscape, you will now have access to sculpt mode, which will function virtually identical to most 3D sculpting software. If you're coming from Blender or especially ZBrush, you will probably find this mode to be extremely basic and simple. But it's everything that you need it to be. The camera controls are exactly the same as they always have been. You might need to change your camera speed though to be able to move optimally through your scene depending on how big it is. Left click sculpts out, but if you hold shift, it will carve in the opposite direction instead. Ctrl Z and Ctrl Y are undo and redo. The shape of your brush is controlled under brush type. It defaults to a standard circle, but if you click on the star and upload your own image, you can make the brush apply itself in any shape that you want. And if you click on the checker board and upload your own image, it will instead apply your pattern across the entire board and bring it out when you left click. This landscape mode works when you already have another landscape asset to play with, but for now, since we don't have any, we're just not going to worry about it. Falloff shape basically determines the shape of your brush effect. Smooth is the default, but you can see that as we change the target falloff to something like sharp, when we left click now, the detail of the sculpt is now sharper and more similar to the falloff shape. Same thing goes for the other shapes like spherical, which makes your detail look more round, and tip is more sharp and narrow. Strength is how powerful your brush is if it's set to zero when you left click, nothing will happen. If it's set to max, then even the slightest left click will reshape the entire world. Brush size obviously controls the size of the target area your brush can affect. Falloff in general is the area that your brush is most powerful. If you change this, you will notice the inner circle of the brush starts to change size. The way this basically works is the outer circle is the edge of your brush's influence. Anything on the outside of the big circle will not be affected by your brush. The inner circle, however, is where your brush is most powerful. If you make this small, it's going to apply most of your sculpting changes to the small, tiny part in the middle. But if your falloff is bigger, it will apply your sculpting to the entire radius of the brush. When the clay brush is activated, it's basically a much more aggressive version of the standard brush, so it's great for blocking out quick details. The layered tab is where everything you sculpt is stored. If you set it to zero, your work will revert to before you started sculpting on this layer. If you set it to negative, your work will literally become inside out. If you right click, you can create a new layer and lock them as you can in any other traditional layer system in other software. You can also use the height map, but we'll talk about that more in the landscape management tutorial later. As for the rest of the brushes, the erase brush will revert the target area back to the base level altitude. This makes it really easy to carve valley areas into mountains. The smooth brush rounds out and makes all the sharp details in your target area softer. The flatten brush takes the altitude of whatever your brush is hovering over and stretches it evenly as you left click and drag. If you want things to flatten at the slope, then just check this box and you'll be able to slope your transitions no problem at all. The ramp brush is what you use when you need a slope to go exactly from one area to the next. Just left click on a height point, then left click again where you want the ramp to end and press enter. You can change the width of the ramp here and how steep the falloff is here. The erosion brush is when you want your landscape to look like the shape has slowly been eroded over time. If it's set to lower, the more erosion, the smaller and flatter your details will be. If it's set to raise, the taller and higher your new erosion details will be instead. The hydro brush is when you want to carve lake and waterfall looking features into your landscape. The more you use this brush, the more similar it will look like to a mountain that has rivers and streams carved into it. The noise brush is if you want to quickly add random details and features to your environment. Just left click, drag and watch your environment do whatever it wants. The retopo brush helps align the X and Y vertices of your landscape more evenly, but it's generally not available in landscape and it's kind of really processor heavy. So I only recommend doing it if absolutely necessary. If you want to make parts of your environment invisible, you can use the invisibility brush. If you have your own custom brush made with blueprints, then you can use them under here. The mirror brush will separate your environments into two halves. You can change the direction and the rotation of the halves by adjusting the different values here. And once you have what you like, just press apply. The select brush should really have been called the mask brush because that's essentially what it is. If you left click, then it will mask certain areas which protects those areas when you're trying to sculpt around them with other brushes. And if there's an area that you just want a straight copy, use the copy brush and just move and scale it until it encompasses everything you want. Then copy values to the gizmo and then when you have the gizmo to another area, left click and it will start to adapt to the environment and fit the copied information that is now stored in the gizmo area. And that basically covers most of the landscape brushes you will need. I hope that helps and as always I hope you have a fantastic day and I'll see you around.