 Chapter 12 Part 1 of How I Found Livingston This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Read by James Gladwin, Somerset, November 2007 How I Found Livingston Travels, Adventures and Discoveries in Central Africa including Four Months Residence with Dr. Livingston by Sir Henry M. Stanley Chapter 12 Part 1 Intercourse with Livingston at Ujiji Livingston's own story of his journeys, his troubles and disappointments If there is love between us, inconceivably delicious and profitable will our intercourse be. If not, your time is lost and you will only annoy me. I shall seem to you stupid and the reputation I have false. All my good is magnetic and I educate not by lessons but by going about my business. Quotation from Emerson's representative men I woke up early next morning with a sudden start. The room was strange. It was a house and not my tent. Ah yes, I recollected I had discovered Livingston and I was in his house. I listened that the knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the sound of his voice. I heard nothing but the sullen roar of the surf. I lay quietly in bed. Bed? Yes, it was a primitive foreposter with the leaves of the palm tree spread upon it instead of down and horsehair and my bearskin spread over this serving me in place of linen. I began to put myself under rigid mental cross-examination and to an analysation of my position. What was I sent for? To find Livingston. Have you found him? Yes, of course. Am I not in his house? Whose compass is that hanging on a peg there? Whose clothes? Whose boots are those? Who reads those newspapers, those Saturday reviews and numbers of punch lying on the floor? Well, what are you going to do now? I shall tell him this morning who sent me and what brought me here. I will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett and to give what news he can spare. I did not come here to rob him of his news. Sufficient for me is it that I have found him. It is a complete success so far, but it will be a greater one if he gives me letters for Mr. Bennett and an acknowledgement that he has seen me. Do you think he will do so? Why not? I have come here to do him a service. He has no goods. I have. He has no men with him. I have. If I do a friendly part by him, will he not do a friendly part by me? What says the parrot? Nor hope to find a friend but who has found a friend in thee. All like the purchase, few the price will pay, and this makes friends such wonders here below. I have paid the purchase by coming so far to do him a service, but I think from what I have seen of him last night that he is not such a niggered and mishandthrog as I was led to believe. He exhibited considerable emotion, despite the monosyllabic greeting when he shook my hand. If he were a man to feel annoyance at any person coming after him, he would not have received me as he did, nor would he ask me to live with him, but he would have surly refused to see me and told me to mind my own business. Neither does he mind my nationality, for here, said he, Americans and Englishmen are the same people. We speak the same language and have the same ideas. Just so, doctor, I agree with you. Here, at least, Americans and Englishmen shall be brothers, and whatever I can do for you, you may command me freely. I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll along the Tanganika before the doctor should rise, opened the door, which creaked horribly on its hinges, and walked out to the veranda. Hello, doctor. You up already? I hope you have slept well. Good morning, Mr. Stanley. I'm glad to see you. I hope you rested well. I sat up late reading my letters. You have brought me good and bad news, but sit down. He made a place for me by his side. Yes, many of my friends are dead. My eldest son has met with a sad accident—that is, my boy Tom. My second son, Oswell, is at college studying medicine and is doing well, I'm told. Agnes, my eldest daughter, has been enjoying herself in a yacht with Sir Parafin Young and his family. Sir Roderick also is well, and expresses a hope that he will soon see me. You have brought me quite a budget. The man was not an apparition then, and yesterday's scenes were not the result of a dream. And I gazed on him intently, for thus I was assured he had not run away, which was the great fear that constantly haunted me as I was journeying to Ujiji. Now, Doctor, said I, you are probably wondering why I came here. It's true, said he, I have been wondering. I thought you at first an emissary of the French government in the place of Lieutenant Lausanne, who died a few miles above Gondacoro. I heard you had boats, plenty of men and stores, and I really believed you were some French officer, until I saw the American flag, and, to tell you the truth, I was rather glad it was so, because I could not have talked to him in French, and, if he did not know English, we had been a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji. I did not like to ask you yesterday, because I thought it was none of my business. Well, said I, laughing, for your sake, I am glad that I am an American and not a Frenchman, and that we can understand each other perfectly without an interpreter. I see that the Arabs are wondering that you, an Englishman, and I, an American, understand each other. We must take care not to tell them that the English and Americans have fought, and that there are Alabama claims left unsettled, and that we have such people as Finians in America who hate you. But seriously, Doctor, now don't be frightened when I tell you that I have come after you. After me? Yes. How? Well, you have heard of the New York Herald. Oh, who has not heard of that newspaper? Without his father's knowledge or consent, Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the son of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the Herald, has commissioned me to find you, to get whatever news of your discoveries you like to give, and to assist you, if I can, with means. Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to find me out, and help me? It is no wonder, then, you praised Mr. Bennett so much last night. I know him, I am proud to say, to be just what I say he is. He is an ardent, generous, and true man. Well, indeed, I am very much obliged to him, and it makes me feel proud to think that you Americans think so much of me. You have just come in the proper time, for I was beginning to think that I should have to beg from the Arabs. Even they are in want of cloth, and there are but few beads in Ujiji. That fellow Sharif has robbed me of all. I wish I could embody my thanks to Mr. Bennett in suitable words, but if I fail to do so, do not, I beg of you, believe me, the less grateful. And now, Doctor, having disposed of this little affair, Faraji shall bring breakfast, if you have no objection. You have given me an appetite, he said. Halima is my cook, but she can never tell the difference between tea and coffee. Faraji the cook was ready as usual with excellent tea, and a dish of smoking cakes, dampers, as the Doctor called them. I never did care much for this kind of cake fried in a pan, but they were necessary to the Doctor, who had nearly lost all his teeth from the hard fare of Lundar. He had been compelled to subsist on green ears of Indian corn. There was no meat in that district, and the effort to gnaw at the corn ears had loosened all his teeth. I preferred the corn scones of Virginia, which, to my mind, were the nearest approach to palatable bread obtainable in Central Africa. The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious and rich man when he saw my great bathtub carried on the shoulders of one of my men, but he thought me still more luxurious this morning, when my knives and forks and plates and cups, saucers, silver spoons and silver teapot were brought forth, shining and bright, spread on a rich Persian carpet, and observed that I was well attended to by my yellow and ebon mercaries. This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji. I knew him not as a friend before my arrival. He was only an object to me, a great item for a daily newspaper as much as other subjects in which the voracious, news-loving public delight in. I had gone over battlefields, witnessed revolutions, civil wars, rebellions, emutes, and massacres, stood close to the condemned murderer to record his last struggles and last sighs, but never had I been called to record anything that moved me so much as this man's woes and sufferings, his privations and disappointments which now were poured into my ear. Verily did I begin to perceive that the gods above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men. I began to recognize the hand of an overruling and kindly providence. The following are singular facts worthy for reflection. I was commissioned for the duty of discovering Livingston sometime in October 1869. Mr. Bennett was ready with the money, and I was ready for the journey. But observe, reader, that I did not proceed directly upon the search mission. I had many tasks to fulfill before proceeding with it and many thousand miles to travel over. Supposing that I had gone direct to Zanzibar from Paris, seven or eight months afterwards perhaps I should have found myself at Ujiji, but Livingston would not have been found there then. He was on the Lualaba, and I should have had to follow him on his devious tracks through the primeval forests of Manweima and up along the crooked course of the Lualaba for hundreds of miles. The time taken by me in travelling up the Nile, back to Jerusalem, then to Constantinople, southern Russia, the Caucasus and Persia, were employed by Livingston in fruitful discoveries west of the Tanganyika. Again, consider that I arrived at Ujjaniyebi in the latter part of June, and that owing to a war I was delayed three months at Ujjaniyebi, leading a fretful, peevish and impatient life. But while I was thus fretting myself and being delayed by a series of accidents, Livingston was being forced back to Ujiji in the same month. It took him from June to October to March to Ujiji. Now, in September, I broke loose from the thralldom which accident had imposed on me, and hurried southward to Unkonogo, then westward to Kawendi, then northward to Uvinsa, then westward to Ujiji, only about three weeks after the doctor's arrival, to find him resting under the veranda of his house, with his face turned eastward, the direction from which I was coming. Had I gone direct from Paris on the search, I might have lost him. Had I been enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Ujjaniyebi, I might have lost him. The days came and went peacefully and happily under the palms of Ujiji. My companion was improving in health and spirits. Life had been brought back to him. His fading vitality was restored. His enthusiasm for his work was growing up again into a height that was compelling him to desire to be up and doing. But what could he do with five men and fifteen or twenty cloths? Have you seen the northern head of the Tanganika doctor, I asked one day? No. I did try to go there, but the Ujiji were doing their best to fleece me, as they did both Burton and Speak, and I had not a great deal of cloth. If I had gone to the head of the Tanganika, I could not have gone to Manweema. The central line of drainage was the most important, and that is the Lulwaba. Before this line, the question whether there is a connection between the Tanganika and the Albert Unyanza sinks into insignificance. The great line of drainage is the river flowing from latitude eleven degrees south, which I followed for over seven degrees northward. The Chambezi, the name given to its most southern extremity, drains a large tract of country south of the southernmost source of the Tanganika. It must therefore be the most important. I have not the least doubt myself, but that this lake is the upper Tanganika, and the Albert Unyanza of Baker is the lower Tanganika, which are connected by a river flowing from the upper to the lower. This is my belief based upon reports of the Arabs and a test I made of the flow with water plants, but I never really gave it much thought. Well, if I were you, doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I should explore it and resolve the doubts upon the subject, lest, after you leave here, you should not return by this way. The Royal Geographical Society attached much importance to this supposed connection and declared you are the only man who can settle it. If I can be of any service to you, you may command me. Though I did not come to Africa as an explorer, I have a good deal of curiosity upon the subject and should be willing to accompany you. I have with me about twenty men who understand rowing. We have plenty of guns, cloth and beads, and if we can get a canoe from the Arabs, we can manage the thing easily. Oh, we can get a canoe from Said bin Majid. This man has been very kind to me, and if ever there was an Arab gentleman, he is one. Then it is settled, is it, that we go? I am ready, whenever you are. I am at your command. Don't you hear my men call you the great master and me the little master? It would never do for the little master to command. By this time Livingston was becoming known to me. I defy anyone to be in his society long without thoroughly fathoming him. For in him there is no guile, and what is apparent on the surface is the thing that is in him. I simply write down my own opinion of the man as I have seen him, not as he represents himself, as I know him to be, not as I have heard of him. I lived with him from the 10th November, 1871 to the 14th of March, 1872, witnessed his conduct in the camp and on the march, and my feelings for him are those of unqualified admiration. The camp is in the best place to discover a man's weaknesses, if he is flighty or wrong-headed, he is sure to develop his hobbies and weak side. I think it possible, however, that Livingston, with an unsuitable companion, might feel annoyance. I know I should do so very readily if a man's character was of that oblique nature that it was an impossibility to travel in his company. I have seen men in whose company I felt nothing but a thralldom, which it was a duty to my own self-respect to cast off as soon as possible, a feeling of utter incompatibility with whose nature mine could never assimilate. But Livingston was a character that I venerated that called forth all my enthusiasm that evoked nothing but sincerest admiration. Dr. Livingston is about 60 years old, though after he was restored to health he appeared more like a man who had not passed his 50th year. His hair has a brownish colour yet, but is here and there streaked with grey lines over the temples. His whiskers and moustache are very grey. He shaves his chin daily. His eyes, which are hazel, are remarkably bright. He has a sight keen as a hawk's. His teeth alone indicate the weakness of age. The hard fare of Lunder has made havoc in their lines. His form, which soon assumed a stoutish appearance, is a little over the ordinary height with the slightest possible bow in the shoulders. When walking he has a firm but heavy tread like that of an overworked or fatigued man. He is accustomed to wear a naval cap with a semi-circular peak, by which he has been identified throughout Africa. His dress, when first I saw him, exhibited traces of patching and repairing, but was scrupulously clean. I was led to believe that Livingston possessed a splenetic, misanthropic temper. Some have said that he is garrulous, that he is demented, that he has utterly changed from the David Livingston whom people knew as the Reverend Missionary, that he takes no notes or observations but such as those which no other person could read but himself. And it was reported, before I proceeded to Central Africa, that he was married to an African princess. I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the above statements. I grant he is not an angel, but he approaches to that being as near as the nature of a living man will allow. I never saw any spleen or misanthropy in him. As for being garrulous, Dr. Livingston is quite the reverse. He is reserved, if anything, and to the man who says Dr. Livingston has changed, all I can say is that he never could have known him. For it is notorious that the doctor has a fund of quiet humour which he exhibits at all times whenever he is among friends. I must also beg leave to correct the gentleman who informed me that Livingston takes no notes or observations. The huge let's diary which I carried home to his daughter is full of notes and there are no less than a score of sheets within it filled with observations which he took during the last trip he made to Manweema alone. And in the middle of the book there is sheet after sheet column after column carefully written of figures alone. A large letter which I received from him has been sent to Sir Thomas McLeer and this contains nothing but observations. During the four months I was with him I noticed him every evening making most careful notes and a large tin box that he has with him contains numbers of field notebooks the contents of which I dare say will see the light sometime. His maps also events great care and industry. As to the report of his African marriage it is unnecessary to say more than that it is untrue and it is utterly beneath the gentleman to hint at such a thing in connection with the name of David Livingston. There was a good natured abandon about Livingston which was not lost on me. Whenever he began to laugh there was a contagion about it that compelled me to imitate him. It was such a laugh as hair toiffled rocks a laugh of the whole man from head to heel. If he told a story he related it in such a way as to convince one of its truthfulness. His face was so lit up by the sly finite contained that I was sure the story was worth relating and worth listening to. The one features which had shocked me at first meeting the heavy step which told of age and hard travel the grey beard and bowed shoulders belied the man. Underneath that well-worn exterior lay an endless fund of high spirits and inexhaustible humour. That rugged frame of his enclosed a young and most exuberant soul. Every day I heard innumerable jokes and pleasant anecdotes interesting hunting stories in which his friends Oswald Webb Vardan and Gordon Cumming were almost always the chief actors. I was not sure at first but this joviality, humour and abundant animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria but as I found they continued while I was with him I am obliged to think them natural. Another thing which especially attracted my attention was his wonderfully retentive memory. If we remember the many years he has spent in Africa deprived of books we may well think it an uncommon memory that can recite whole poems from Baron, Burns, Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier and Lowell. The reason of this may be found perhaps in the fact that he has lived all his life almost as we may say within himself. Zimmerman, a great student of human nature says on this subject the unencumbered mind recalls all that it has read all that pleased the eye and delighted the ear and reflecting on every idea which either observation or experience or discourse has produced gains new information by every reflection. The intellect contemplates all the former scenes of life views by anticipation those that are yet to come and blends all ideas of past and future in the actual enjoyment of the present moment. He has lived in a world which revolved inwardly out of which he seldom awoke except to attend to the immediate practical necessities of himself and people then relapsed again into the same happy inner world which he must have peopled with his own friends relations, acquaintances familiar readings, ideas associations, so that wherever he might be or by whatsoever he was surrounded his own world always possessed more attractions to his cultured mind than were yielded by external circumstances. The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be complete if we did not take the religious side of his character into consideration. His religion is not of the theoretical kind but it is a abundant, earnest, sincere practice. It is neither demonstrative nor loud but manifest itself in a quiet, practical way and is always at work. It is not aggressive which sometimes is troublesome if not impertinent. In him religion exhibits its loveliest features. It governs his conduct not only towards his servants but towards the natives, the bigoted and all who come in contact with him. Without it Livingstone with his ardent temperament his enthusiasm, his high spirit and courage must have become uncompagnable and a hard master. Religion has tamed him and made him a Christian gentleman. The crude and willful have been refined and subdued. Religion has made him the most compagnable of men and indulgent of masters. A man whose society is pleasurable. In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits. His gentleness never forsakes him. His hopefulness never deserts him. No harassing anxieties, distraction of mind, long separation from home and kindred can make him complain. He thinks all will come out right at last. He has such faith in the goodness of providence. The sport of adverse circumstances the plaything of the miserable beings sent to him from Zanzibar. He has been baffled and worried even almost to the grave. Yet he will not desert the charge imposed upon him by his friend Sir Roderick Murchison. To the stern dictates of duty alone has he sacrificed his home and ease, the pleasures, refinements and wages of civilised life. His is the Spartan heroism, the inflexibility of the Roman, the enduring resolution of the Anglo-Saxon, never to relinquish his work though his heart yearns for home, never to surrender his obligations until he can write Phenis to his work. But you may take any point in Dr Livingstone's character carefully and I would challenge any man to find a fault in it. He is sensitive, I know, but so is any man of a high mind and generous nature. He is sensitive on the point of being doubted or being criticised. An extreme love of truth is one of his strongest characteristics which proves him to be a man of strictest principles and conscientious scruples. Being such, he is naturally sensitive and shrinks on the integrity of his observations and the accuracy of his reports. He is conscious of having laboured in the course of geography and science with zeal and industry to have been painstaking and as exact the circumstances would allow. Ordinary critics seldom take into consideration circumstances but utterly regardless of the labour expended in obtaining the least amount of geographical information in a new land environed by inconceivable dangers and difficulties such as Central Africa presents they seem to take delight in rending to tatters and reducing to nil the fruits of long years of labour by sharply pointed shafts of ridicule and sneers. Livingstone no doubt may be mistaken in some of his conclusions about certain points from the geography of Central Africa to be as dramatic and positive a man as to refuse conviction. He certainly demands when arguments in contra are used in opposition to him higher authority than abstract theory. His whole life is a testimony against its unreliability and his entire labour of years were in vain if theory can be taken in evidence against personal observation and patient investigation. The reluctance he manifests to entertain suppositions possibilities regarding the nature form, configuration of concrete immutable matter like the earth arises from the fact that a man who commits himself to theories about such an untheoretical subject to Central Africa is deterred from bestowing himself to prove them by the test of exploration. His opinion of such a man is that he unfits himself for his duty that he is very likely to become a slave to theory of a luptuous fancy which would master him. It is his firm belief that a man who rests his sole knowledge of the geography of Africa on theory deserves to be discredited. It has been the fear of being discredited and criticised and so made to appear before the world as a man who spent several years in Africa for the sake of burdening the geographical mind with theory that has detained him so long in Africa doing his utmost to test the value of the main theory which clung to him and would cling to him until he proved or disproved it. This main theory is his belief that in the broad and mighty Luolaba he has discovered the headwaters of the Nile. His grounds for believing this are of such nature and weight as to compel him to despise the warning that years are advancing on him that his former iron constitution is failing. He believes his speculations on this point will be verified. He believes he is strong enough to pursue his explorations until he can return to his country with the announcement that the Luolaba is none other than the Nile. End of Chapter 12 Part 1 Recording by James Gladwin Somerset November 2007 In Central Africa, including four months' residence with Dr. Livingston by Sir Henry M. Stanley Chapter 12, Part 2 Intercourse with Livingston at Yujiji Livingston's own story of his journeys, his troubles and disappointments. Undiscovering that the insignificant scream called the Chambezi which rises between 10 degrees south and 12 degrees south flowed westerly and then northerly through several lakes now under the name of the Chambezi then as the Luapua and then as the Luolaba and that it still continued its flow toward the north for over 7 degrees, Livingston became firmly of the opinion that the river whose current he followed was the Egyptian Nile. Failing at latitude 4 degrees south to pursue his explorations farther without additional supplies, he determined to return to Yujiji to obtain them. And now, having obtained them, he intends to return to the point where his troubles is firmly established what name shall eventually be given the noble waterway whose course he followed through so many sick toilings and difficulties to all entreaties to come home to all the glowing temptations which home and innumerable friends offer. He returns the determined answer. No, not until my work is ended. I have often heard our servants discuss our respective merits. Your master, say my servants to Livingston's, is a good man, a very good man to teach you for he has a kind heart but ours, oh, he is sharp, hot as fire. From being hated and thwarted in every possible way by the Arabs and half-castes upon first arrival in Yujiji he has through his uniform kindness and mild pleasant temper won all hearts. I observed that universal respect was paid to him, even the Mohammedans never passed his house without calling to pay their compliments and to say the blessing of God rest upon you. Each Sunday morning he gathers his little flock around him and reads prayers in a chapter from the Bible in a natural unaffected and sincere tone. And afterwards delivers a short address in the Kiswahili language about the subject read to them which is listened to with interest and attention. Here is another point in Livingston's character about which readers of his books and students of his travels would like to know. And that is his ability to withstand the dreadful climate of Central Africa and the consistent energy with which he follows up his explorations. His consistent energy is native to him and to his race. He has a very fine example of the perseverance, doggedness and tenacity which characterize the Anglo-Saxon spirit. But his ability to withstand the climate is due not only to the happy constitution which with he was born but to the strictly temperate life he has ever led. A drunkard and man of vicious habits could never have withstood the climate of Central Africa. The second day after my arrival the doctor if he did not feel a desire sometimes to visit his country and take a little rest after his six years explorations and the answer he gave me reveals the man, said he I should like very much to go home and see my children once again but I cannot bring my heart to abandon the task I have undertaken when it is so nearly completed. It only requires six or seven months more to trace the true source that I have discovered with Petheric's branch of the White Nile or with Albert Nyaza of Sir Samuel Baker which is the lake called by the natives Chawambi why should I go home before my task has ended to have to come back again to do what I very well do now and why I asked did you come so far back without finishing the task which you say you have got to do simply because I was forced my men would not budge a step forward they mutinied and formed a secret resolution. If I still insisted upon going on with the disturbance in the country and after they had affected it to abandon me in which case I should have been killed it was dangerous to go any further I had explored 600 miles of the watershed had traced all the principal streams which discharged their waters into the central line of drainage but when about starting to explore the last 100 miles the hearts of my people failed them and they said about frustrating me in every possible way now having returned 700 miles to get a new supply of stores for escort I find myself destitute of even the means to live but for a few weeks and sick in mind and body here I may pause to ask any brave man how he would have comported himself in such a crisis many would have been an exceeding hurry to get home to tell the news of the continued explorations and discoveries and to relieve the anxiety of the sorrowing family and friends awaiting their return. Enough surely had been accomplished toward the solution of the problem that had exercised scientific associates of the royal geographical society it was no negative exploration it was hard earnest labor of years self-abnegation enduring patience and exalted fortitude such as ordinary men fail to exhibit. Suppose Livingston had hurried to the coast after he had discovered Lake Benguelo to tell the news to the geographical world then had returned to discover Morero and run away again then went back once more only to discover Camelondo and to race back again this would not be in accordance with Livingston's character he must not only discover the Chambezi, Lake Benguelo Lua Pula River, Lake Morero Lulaba River and Lake Camelondo but he must still tirelessly urge his steps forward to put the final completion to the grand Lacustrine River system had he followed the example of ordinary explorers he would have been running backwards and forwards to tell the news instead of exploring and he might have been able to write a volume upon the discovery of each lake and earn much more money thereby there are no few months explorations that form the contents of his books his missionary travels embraces a period of sixteen years his book on the Zambezi five years and if the great traveler lives to come home his third book the grandest of all must contain the records of eight or nine years it is a principle with Livingston to do well what he undertakes to do and in the consciousness that he is doing it despite the yearning for his home which is sometimes overpowering he finds to a certain extent contentment if not happiness to men differently constituted a long residence amongst the savages of Africa would be contemplated with horror yet Livingston's mind can find pleasure in food for philosophic studies the wonders of primeval nature the great forests and sublime mountains the perennial streams and sources of the great lakes the marvels of the earth the splendors of the tropic sky by day and by night all terrestrial and celestial phenomena are mana to a man of such self-abnegation and devoted philanthropic spirit he can be charmed with the primitive simplicity of Ethiopes dusty children with whom he has spent so many years of his life he has a sturdy faith in their capabilities sees virtue in them where others see nothing but savagery and wherever he has gone among them he has sought to elevate a people that were apparently forgotten of God and Christian man one night I took out my notebook and prepared to take down from his own lips what he had to say about his travels and unhesitatingly he related his experiences of which the following is a summary Dr. David Livingston left the island of Zanzibar in March 1866 on the 7th of the following month he departed from Mekinde Bay for the interior with an expedition consisting of 12 seapoys from Bombay 9 men from Johanna of the Komoro Islands 7 liberated slaves and 2 Zambezi men taking them as an experiment 6 camels 3 buffaloes, 2 mules and 3 donkeys he had thus 30 men with him 12 of whom via the seapoys he had to act as guards for the expedition they were mostly armed with the infield rifles presented to the doctor by the Bombay government the baggage of the expedition consisted of 10 bales of cloth and 2 bags of beads which were to serve as the currency by which they would be enabled to purchase the necessaries of life in the countries the doctor intended to visit beside the cumbersome monies they carried several boxes of instruments such as chronometers, air thermometers and a metal horizon boxes containing clothes, medicines and personal necessaries the expedition traveled up the left bank of the Rovuma River a route as full of difficulties as any that could be chosen for miles Livingston and his party had to cut their way with their axes through the dense and almost impenetrable jungles which lined the rivers banks the road was a mere footpath leading in the most erratic fashion into and through the dense vegetation seeking the easiest outlet from it without any regard to the course it ran the Bacchazes were able to proceed easily enough but the camels on account of their enormous height could not advance a step without the axes of the party clearing the way these tools of foresters were almost always required but the advance of the expedition was often retarded by the unwillingness of the Cipoys and Johannamen to work soon after the departure of the expedition from the coast, the murmurings and complaints of these men began and upon every occasion and at every opportunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance in order to prevent the progress of the doctor and in hopes that it would compel him to return to the coast these men so cruelly treated the animals that before long there was not one left alive but as the scheme failed they set about instigating the natives against the white men and they accused most wantonly practices as this plan was most likely to succeed and as it was dangerous to have such men with him the doctor arrived at the conclusion that it was best to discharge them and accordingly sent the Cipoys back to the coast but not without having first furnished them with the means of substance on their journey to the coast these men were such a disreputable set that the natives spoke of them as the doctor's slaves one of their worst sins was the custom of giving their guns and ammunition to the first women or boy they met whom they impressed for that purpose by such threats or promises as they were totally unable to perform and unwarranted in making and ours marching was sufficient to fatigue them after which they lay down on the road to bewail their hard fate and concoct new schemes to frustrate their leaders' purposes toward night they generally made their appearance at the camping ground with the looks of half dead men such men naturally made a poor escort for had the party been attacked by a wandering tribe of natives of any strength the doctor could have made no defense and no other alternative would have been left to him but to surrender and be ruined the doctor and his little party arrived on the 18th July 1866 at a village belonging to a chief of the Wahayu situate eight days south march south of the revuma and overlooking the watershed of Lake Neasa the territory lying between the revuma river and this Wahayu village was an uninhabited wilderness during the transit of which Livingston and his expedition suffered considerably from hunger and desertion of men early in August 1866 the doctor came to the country of Mpanda a chief who dwelt near the lake Neasa on the road thither two of the liberated slaves deserted him here also Wicotani a protege of the doctor insisted upon his discharge alleging as an excuse an excuse with which the doctor subsequently found to be untrue that he had found his brother he also stated that his family lived on the east side of the Neasa lake he further stated that Mpanda's favorite wife was his sister perceiving that Wicotani was unwilling to go with him further the doctor took him to Mpanda who now saw and heard of him for the first time and having furnished the ungrateful boy with enough cloth and beads to keep him until his big brother should call for him to be achieved after first assuring himself that he would receive honorable treatment from him the doctor also gave Wicotani writing papers as he could read and write being accomplishments acquired at Bombay where he had been put to school so that should he at any time feel disposed he might write to his English friends or to himself the doctor further enjoyed him not to join in any of the slave race usually made by his countrymen upon finding that his application for discharge was successful Wicotani endeavored to induce Chuma another protege of the doctors and a companion or chum of Wicotani to leave the doctor's service and proceed with him promising as a bribe a wife and plenty of Bombay from his big brother Chuma upon referring the matter to the doctor was advised not to go as he the doctor strongly suspected that Wicotani wanted only to make him his slave Chuma wisely withdrew from his tempter from Apandas the doctor proceeded to the heel of the Nyasa to the village of a Bombiza chief who required medicine for a skin disease with his usual kindness he stated the chief's village to treat his malady while here a half cast Arab arrived from a western shore of the lake and reported that he had been plundered by a band of Mazitu at a place which the doctor and Muzah chief of the Johannaman were very well aware was at least 150 miles north west of where they were then stopping Muzah however for his own reasons which will appear presently eerily listened to the Arab's tale and gave full credence to it having well digested its horrible details he came to the doctor to give him the full benefit of what he had heard with such willing ears the traveler patiently listened to the narrative which lost nothing of its portentious significance through Muzah's relation and then asked Muzah if he believed it yes answered Muzah readily he told me true, true I asked him good and he told me true, true the doctor however said he did not believe it for the Muzitu could not have been satisfied with merely plundering a man they would have murdered him but suggested in order to ally the fears of his Muslim subordinate that they should both proceed to the chief with whom they were staying who being a sensible man would be able to advise them as to the probability or improbability of the tale being correct together they proceeded to the Babisa chief the Arab story unhesitatingly denounced the Arab as a liar and his story without the least foundation in fact given as a reason that if the Muzitu had been lately in that vicinity he would have heard of it soon enough but Muzah broke out with a no, no doctor, no, no, no I no want to go to Muzutu I no want Muzutu to kill me I want to see my father, my mother, my child in Johanna I want no Muzutu these are Muzah's words to which the doctor replied I don't want the Muzutu to kill me either but as you are afraid of them I promise to go straight west until you get far past the beat of the Muzutu Muzah was not satisfied but kept moaning and sorrowing saying, if we had 200 guns with us I would go but our small party of men they will attack by night and kill all the doctor repeated his promise but I will not go near them I will go west the doctor and his faced westward Muzah and the Johanna men ran away in a body the doctor says in commenting upon Muzah's conduct that he felt strongly tempted to shoot Muzah in another ring later, but was nevertheless glad that he did not soil his hands with their vile blood a day or two afterwards another of his men, Simon Price by name came to the doctor with the same tale about the Muzutu but compelled by the scant number of his people to repress all such tendencies to desertion the doctor silenced him at once and sternly forbade him to utter the name of the Muzutu anymore had the natives not assisted him he would have despaired of ever being able to penetrate the wild and unexplored interior which he was now about to tread fortunately, as the doctor says with Unction, I was in a country now after leaving the shores of Nyassa which the foot of the slave trader had not trod it was a new and virgin land and of course, as I have always found in cases, the natives were really good and hospitable and for every very small portions of cloth, my baggage was conveyed from village to village by them in many other ways, the traveler and his extremity was kindly treated by the yet unsophisticated and innocent natives on leaving this hospitable region in the early part of December, 1866 the doctor entered a country where the Muzutu had exercised their customary marauding propincities the land was swept clean of provisions and the people had immigrated to other countries beyond the bounds of these ferocious plunderers again, the expedition was besieged by pinching hunger from which they suffered they had recourse to the wild fruits which some parts of the country furnished at intervals, the condition of the hard-pressed band was made worse by the heartless desertion of some of its members who more than once departed with the doctor's personal kit change of clothes, linen, etc with more or less misfortunes constantly dogging his footsteps he traversed in safety the countries of Bambisa, Bombima, Marungu, Baulungu, and Lunda in the country of Lunda lives the famous Kazimbe, who was first made known to Europeans by Dr. Lasserta the Portuguese traveler Kazimbe is a most intelligent prince he is a tall, stalwart man who wears a peculiar kind of dress made of crimson print in the form of a prodigious kilt in this state dress King Kazimbe received Dr. Livingston surrounded by his chiefs and bodyguards a chief who had been deputed by the king and elders to discover all about the white man then stood up before the assembly and a loud voice gave the result of the inquiry he had instituted he had heard that the white man had come to look for waters for rivers and seas though he could not understand what the white man could want with such things he had no doubt that the object was good what the white man was doing and where he thought of going the doctor replied that he had thought of proceeding south as he had heard of lakes and rivers being in that direction Kazimbe asked, what can you want to go there for the water is close here there is plenty of large water in this neighborhood before breaking up the assembly Kazimbe gave orders to let the white man go where he would through his country undisturbed and unmolested he was the first Englishman he had seen he said and he liked him the queen entered the large house surrounded by a bodyguard of Amazons with spears she was a fine tall handsome young woman and evidently thought she was about to make an impression upon the rustic white man where she had closed herself with the most royal fashion and was armed with a ponderous spear but her appearance so different from what the doctor had imagined caused him to laugh which entirely spoiled the effect intended for the laugh of the doctor was so contagious that she herself was the first to imitate it and the Amazons, Cartier-like, followed suit most disconcerted by this the queen ran back followed by her obedient damsels a retreat most undignified and unqueen-like compared with her majestic advent into the doctor's presence but Livingston will have much to say about his reception at this court and about this interesting king and queen who can so well relate the scenes he witnessed and which belong exclusively to him as himself soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda or Landa and before he had entered the district ruled over by Cambese he had crossed a river called the Chambezi which was quite an important stream the similarity of the name with that large noble river south which will be forever connected with his name Miss Led Livingston at that time and he, accordingly did not pay to it the attention it deserved believing that the Chambezi was but the headwaters of the Zambezi and subsequently had no bearing or connection with the sources of the river of Egypt of which he was in search his fault was in relying too implicitly upon the correctness of Portuguese information this error cost him many months of tedious labor and travel to rectify End of Chapter 12 Part 2 Chapter 12 Part 3 of How I Found Livingston This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Read by Beth Ann How I Found Livingston travels adventures and discoveries in Central Africa including four months residence with Dr. Livingston by Sir Henry M. Stanley Chapter 12 Part 3 Intercourse with Livingston at UGG Livingston's own story of his journeys, his travels and disappointments From the beginning of 1867 the time of his arrival at Kazembez to the middle of March 1869 the time of his arrival at UGG he was mostly engaged in correcting the errors and misrepresentations of the Portuguese travelers The Portuguese and speaking of the river Chambisi invariably spoke of it as our own Zambezi that is, the Zambezi which flows through the Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique In going from Kazembe from Nyasa, they said you will cross our own Zambezi Such positive and reiterated information given not only orally but in their books and maps was naturally confusing The doctor perceived that what he saw and what they described were at variance out of a sincere wish to be correct unless he might have been mistaken himself he started to re-travel the ground he had traveled before Over and over again he traversed the several countries watered by the several rivers of the complicated water system like an uneasy spirit Over and over again he asked the same questions from the different peoples he met and was obliged to desist unless they might say the man is mad he has got water on the brain But his travels and tedious labors in Linda and the adjacent countries have established beyond doubt First, that the Chambisi is a totally distinct river from the Zambezi of the Portuguese and secondly, that the Chambisi starting from about latitude 11 degrees south is no other than the most high feeder of the Great Nile thus giving that famous river a length of over 2,000 miles of direct latitude making it second to the Mississippi the longest river in the world The real and true name of the Zambezi is the Dombazi When Lacerda and his Portuguese successors coming to Cazembe crossed the Chambisi and heard its name they very naturally set it down as our own Zambezi and, without further enquiry sketched it as running in that direction During his researches in that region so pregnant in discoveries Livingston came to a lake lying northeast of Cazembe which the natives call Limba from the country of that name which bordered it on the east and south In tracing the lake north he found it to be none other or the southeastern extremity of it which looks on the doctor's map very much like an outline of Italy The latitude of the southern end of this great body of water is about 8 degrees 42 minutes south which thus gives it a length from north to south of 360 geographical miles From the southern extremity of the Tanganyika he crossed Marungu Marou Tracing this lake which is about 60 miles in length to its southern head he found a river called the Lupula following the Lupula south he found an issue from the large length of Banguilo which is nearly as large in superficial area as the Tanganyika In exploring for the waters which discharged themselves into the lake he found that by far the most important of these feeders was the Chambezi so that he had thus traced the Chambezi from its source to Lake Banguilo and the issue from its northern head under the name of Lupula and found it enter Lake Marou Again he returned to Kazembez well satisfied that the river running north through 3 degrees of latitude could not be the river running south under the name of Zambezi though there might be remarkable resemblance in their names At Kazembez he found an old white bearded half-cast named Muhammad bin Saleh who was kept as a kind of prisoner at large by the king because of certain suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay in the country Through Livingston's influence Muhammad bin Saleh obtained his release On the road to Yujiji he caused a regret having exerted himself in the half-cast behalf He turned out to be a most ungrateful wretch who poisoned the minds of the doctors few followers and ingratiated himself with them by selling the favors of his concubines to them by which he reduced them to a kind of bondage under him The doctor was deserted by all but two even faithful Suzy and Chuma deserted him for the service of Muhammad bin Saleh but they soon repented and returned to their allegiance From the day he had the vile old man of his company manifold in bitter misfortunes followed the doctor up to his arrival at Yujiji in March, 1869 From the date of his arrival until the end of June, 1869 he remained at Yujiji whence he dated those lighters which though the outside world still doubted his being alive satisfied the minds of the royal geographical people and his intimate friends that he still existed and that Musa's tale was the false though ingenious fabrication of a cowardly deserter It was during this time that the thought occurred to him of selling around the lake Tanganika but the Arabs and natives were so bent on fleecing him that had he undertaken it the remainder of his goods would not have enabled him to explore the central line of drainage the initial point of which he found far south of Kazembe in about latitude 11 degrees in the river called Chebezi In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Yujiji after his march from the coast near Zanzibar the land to which Livingston on his departure from Yujiji bent his steps was unknown to the Arabs saved by vague report Mr Burton and Speek never heard of it it seems Speek who was the geographer of Burton's expedition heard of a place called Arua which he placed on his map according to the general direction indicated by the Arabs but the most enterprising of the Arabs in their third chapter ivory only touched the frontiers of Arua as the natives in Livingston call it for Arua is an immense country with a length of 6 degrees of latitude and as yet an undefined breadth from east to west at the end of June 1869 Livingston quitted Yujiji and crossed over to Aguja on the western shore for his last and greatest series of explorations the result of which was the further discovery of a lake of considerable magnitude connected with Mero by the large river called the Luallaba and which was a continuation of the chain of lakes he had previously discovered from the port of Aguja he set off in company with a body of traders in an almost direct westerly course for the country of Arua 15 days march brought them to Bambare the first important ivory depot in Manema or at least as the natives pronounce it Manuema in nearly 6 months he was detained at Bambara from ulcers in the feet which discharged bloody icor as soon as he set them on the ground when he recovered he set off in a north lily direction and after several days came to a broad lakustrine river called the Luallaba flowing northward and westward and in some places southward in a most confusing way the river was from 2 to 3 miles broad by exceeding pertenacity he contrived to follow its erratic course until he saw the Luallaba enter the narrow long lake in about latitude 6 degrees 30 minutes retracing this to the south he came to the point where he had seen the Lapula enter like Mero one feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingston's descriptions of the beauties of Mero scenery pent in on all sides by high mountains close to the edges with the rich vegetation of the tropics the Mero discharges its superfluous waters through a deep rent in the bosom of the mountains the impetuous and grand river roars through the chasm with the thunder of a cataract but soon after leaving its confined and deep bed it expands to the calm and broad Luallaba stretching over miles of ground after making great bends west and southwest and then curving northward it enters Camilandu by the natives it is called the Luallaba but the doctor in order to distinguish it from other rivers of the same name has given it the name of webs river after Mr. Webb the wealthy proprietor of Newstead Abbey whom the doctor distinguishes as one of his oldest and most consistent friends a way to the southwest of Camilandu is another large lake which discharges its waters by the important river Loki or Lomami into the great Luallaba to this lake known as Chibongo by the natives Dr. Livingston has given the name of Lincoln to be here after distinguished on maps and in books Lincoln in memory of Abraham Lincoln our murdered president this was done from the vivid impression produced on his mind by hearing a portion of his inauguration speech read from an English pulpit which related to the causes that induced him to issue his emancipation proclamation by which memorable deed 4 million of slaves were forever freed to the memory of the man whose labors on behalf of the Negro race serves the commendation of all good men Livingston has contributed a monument more durable than Brasser stone entering Webb's river from the south southwest a little north of Camilandu is a large river called Lufira but the streams that discharge themselves from the watershed into the Luallaba are so numerous that the doctor's map would not contain them so he has left all out except the most important continuing his way north tracing the Luallaba through its manifold and crooked curves as far as latitude 4 degrees south he came to where he heard of another lake to the north into which it ran but here you may come to a dead halt and read what lies beyond this spot thus this was a further most point once he was compelled to return on the wary road to Eugeege a distance of 700 miles in this brief sketch of Dr. Livingston's wonderful travels it is to be hoped the most superficial reader as well as the student of geography comprehends this grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's river to assist him let him glance at the map accompanying this book he will then have a fair idea of what Dr. Livingston has been doing during these long years with the contributions he has made to the study of African geography that this river distinguished under several titles flowing from one lake into another in a northly direction with all its great crooked bends and sinuosities is the Nile the true Nile the doctor has not the least doubt for a long time he entertained great skepticism because of its deep bends and curves west and southwest but having traced it from its head waters the Chambizi through 7 degrees of latitude that is from 11 degrees south to latitude 4 degrees north he has been compelled to come to the conclusion that it can be no other river than the Nile he had thought it was the Congo but has discovered the sources of the Congo to be the Kasai and the Kwango two rivers which rise on the western side of the Nile watershed is about the latitude of Banguilo and he was told of another river called the Lubilish which rose from the north and ran west but the Lualaba the doctor thinks cannot be the Congo from its great size and body and from its steady and continued flow northward through a broad and extensive valley bounded by the enormous mountains westerly and easterly the altitude of the most northerly point which the doctor traced the wonderful river was a little in excess of 2,000 feet so that though Baker makes it out to be 2,700 feet above the sea yet the bar gazelle through which Petheric's branch of the white Nile issues into the Nile is but 2,000 feet in which case there is a possibility that the Lualaba may be none other than Petheric's branch it is well known that the main stations for ivory have been established for about 500 miles up Petheric's branch we must remember this fact when told that Gondokoru in latitude 4 degrees north is 2,000 feet above the sea and latitude 4 degrees south where the halt was made is only a little over 2,000 feet above the sea that the two rivers said to be 2,000 feet above the sea separated from each other by 8 degrees of latitude may among some men be regarded as a startling statement but we must restrain mere expressions of surprise and take into consideration that this mighty and broad Lualaba is a lacustrine river broader than the Mississippi that at intervals the body of water forms extensive lakes then contracting into a broad river it again forms a lake and so on to latitude 4 degrees and even beyond this point there appears of a large lake again north we must wait also until the altitudes of the two rivers the Lualaba where the doctor halted and the southern point on the Bar-Gazelle where Petheric's branch has been are known with perfect accuracy now for the sake of arguments suppose we give this nameless lake a length of about 6 degrees of latitude as it may be the one discovered by the Italian traveler from which Petheric's branch of the White Nile issues out through reedy marshes into the Bar-Gazelle then into the White Nile south of Gondekoru by this method we can suppose the rivers one for if the lake extends over so many degrees of latitude the necessity of explaining the differences of altitude that must naturally exist between two points of a river to be obviated also Livingston's instruments for observation and taking altitudes may have been an error and this is very likely to have been the case subjected as they have been to rough handling during nearly 6 years of travel despite the apparent difficulty of the altitude there is another strong reason for believing Webb's river or the Lualaba to be the Nile the watershed of this river 600 miles of which Livingston has traveled is drained from a valley which lies north and south between lofty eastern and western ranges this valley or line of drainage while it does not receive the Kasai and the Kuangou receives rivers flowing from a great distance west for instance the important tributaries Lufira and Lomami and large rivers from the east such as the Lindy and the Luama and while the most intelligent Portuguese travelers and traders state that the Kasai the Kuangou and the Lubilish are the headwaters of the Congo river no one has yet started the supposition that the Grand River flowing north and known by the natives as Lualaba is the Congo this river may be the Congo or perhaps the Niger if the Lualaba is only 2000 feet above the sea and the Albert Nyanza 2700 feet the Lualaba cannot enter that lake if the bar gazelle does not extend by an arm for 8 degrees above the Gandakoru then the Lualaba cannot be the Nile but it would be premature to dogmatize on the subject Livingston will clear up the point himself and if he finds it to be the Congo will be the first to admit his error End of Chapter 12, Part 3 Chapter 12, Part 4 of How I Found Livingston this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org read by Beth Ann How I Found Livingston travels adventures and discoveries in Central Africa including 4 months residence with Dr. Livingston by Sir Henry M. Stanley Chapter 12, Part 4 intercourse with Livingston at Ugg Livingston's own story of his journeys, his troubles and disappointments Livingston admits the Nile sources have not been found though he has traced the Lualaba through 7 degrees of latitude flowing north and though he has not a particle of doubt of its being the Nile not yet can the Nile question be said to be resolved and ended for two reasons one he has heard of the existence of 4 fountains 2 of which gave birth to a river flowing north Webs River or the Lualaba and to a river flowing south which is the Zambezi he has repeatedly heard of these fountains from the natives several times he has been within 100 and 200 miles from them but something always interposed to prevent his going to see them According to those who have seen them they rise on either side of a mound or level which contains no stones some have called it an ant hill One of these fountains is said to be so large that a man standing on one side cannot be seen from the other These fountains must be discovered and their positions taken The doctor does not suppose them to be south of the feeders of Lake Banguiolo In his letter to the herald he says these 4 full grown gushun fountains rising so near each other and giving origin to 4 large rivers answers in a certain degree to the description given of the unfathomable fountains of the Nile by the secretary of maneuver in the city of Syes in Egypt to the father of all travelers Herodotus For the information of such readers as may not have the original at hand I append the following from Kerry's translation of Herodotus With respect to the sources of the Nile no man of all the Egyptians Libyans or Greeks with whom I have conversed intended to know anything except the registrar of Nervous Treasury at Syes in Egypt He indeed seemed to be trifling with me when he said he knew perfectly well yet his account was as follows that there are 2 mountains rising into a sharp peak situated between the city of Syene and Thebius and Elephantine The names of these mountains are the one Krofi the other Mofi and that the sources of the Nile which are bottomless flow from between these mountains and that half of the water flows over Egypt and to the north and the other half over Ethiopia and the south The fountains of the Nile are bottomless he said Sametikus king of Egypt proved by experiment For having caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in length he let it down but could not find a bottom Such then was the opinion the registrar grave if indeed he spoke the real truth Proving in my opinion that there are strong whirlpools and an eddy here so that the water beating against the rocks a sounding line when let down cannot reach the bottom I was unable to learn anything more from anyone else but this much I learned by carrying my researches as far as possible having gone and made my own observations as far as elephantine and beyond that observing information from hearsay as one ascends the river above the city of elephantine the country is steep here therefore it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of a boat as one does with an ox and so proceed but if the rope should happen to break the boat is carried away by the force of the stream this kind of country lasts for a four days passage and the Nile here winds as much as the meander there are twelve chonnais which is necessary to sell through in this manner and after that you will come to a level plane where the Nile flows round an island it's name is the chomso Ethiopians inhabit the country immediately above the elephantine and one half of the island the other half is inhabited by Egyptians near to this island lies a vast lake on the borders of which Ethiopian nomads dwell after selling through this lake you will come to the channel of the Nile which flows into it then you will have to land near to this island then you will have to land and travel 40 days by the side of the river for sharp rocks rise in the Nile and there are many sunken ones through which it is not possible to navigate a boat having passed this country in the 40 days you must go on board another boat and sell for 12 days then you will have to land and travel 40 days by the side of the river for sharp rocks rise in the Nile and there are many sunken ones and sell for 12 days and then you will arrive at a large city called Miro this city is said to be the capital of all Ethiopia the inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and Bacchus but these they honor with great magnificence they have also an oracle of Jupiter and they make war whenever that god bids them by an auricular warning and against whatever country he bids them selling from this city you will arrive at the country of Automoli in the space of time equal to that which took you in coming from Elephantine to the capital of the Ethiopians these Automoli are called by the name of Asmak which in the language of Greece signifies those that stand at the left hand of the king these to the number of 140,000 of the Egyptian war tribes revolted to the Ethiopians on the following occasion in the reign of king Samedikus garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the Ethiopians and another at the Pelusian Daphne against the Arabians and Syrians and another at Miro against Libya and even in my time garrisons and the Persians are stationed in the same places as they were in the time of Samedikus for they maintained guards at Elephantine and Daphne now these Egyptians after they had been on duty three years were not relieved therefore having consulted together and come to a unanimous resolution they all revolted from Samedikus and went to Ethiopia Samedikus hearing of this pursued them and when he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments not to forsake the gods of their fathers and their children and wives but one of them is reported to have uncovered and to have said that wheresoever these were there they should find both children and wives these men when they arrived in Ethiopia offered their services to the king of the Ethiopians who made them the following recompense there were certain Ethiopians disaffected towards him these he bade them expel and take possession of their land by the settlement of these men among the Ethiopians the Ethiopians became more civilized and learned the manners of the Egyptians now for a voyage and land journey of four months the Nile is known in addition to the parts of the stream that is in Egypt for upon computation so many months are known to be spent with a person who travels from Elephantine to Odomoli this river flows from the west and the setting of the sun but beyond this no one is able to speak with certainty for the rest of the country is desert by reason of the excessive heat but I have heard the following account from certain Serenians who say that they went to the oracle of Amun and had a conversation with Etarchus king of the Amonians that among other subjects they happened to discourse about the Nile that nobody knew its sources where upon Etarchus said that certain Nazmonians once came to him this nation is Libyan and inhabits the Cirtus and the country for no great distance eastward of the Cirtus and that when these Nazmonians arrived and were asked if they could give any further information touching the deserts of Libya they answered that there were some daring use amongst them sons of powerful men and that they having reached man's estate for many other extravagant plans and moreover chose five of their number by lot to explore the deserts of Libya to see if they could make any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest for as respects the parts of Libya among the northern sea beginning from Egypt to the promontory of Solas where is the extremity of Libya Libyans in various nations of Libyans reach all along it except those parts which are occupied by Grecians and Phoenicians but as respects the parts above the sea and those nations which reached down to the sea in the upper parts Libya is infested by wild beasts and beyond that is sand dreadfully short of water and utterly desolate they further related that when the young men deputed by their companions set out well furnished with water and provisions they passed first through the inhabited country and having traversed this they came to the region infested by wild beasts and after this they crossed the desert making their way towards the west and when they had traversed much sandy ground the journey of many days they at length saw some trees growing in a plain and that they approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on the trees and while they were gathering some diminutive men less than men of middle stature came up and having seized them carried them away and that the Nazmonians did not at all understand their language nor those who carry them off however they conducted them through vast morasses and when they had passed these they came to a city in which all the inhabitants were the same size as their conductors and black in color and by the city flowed a great river running from the west to the east and that crocodiles were seen in it thus far I have set forth the account of a Tarkas themonian to which may be added the sirenians assured me that he said the Nazmonians all returned safe to their own country and that the men whom they came to were all necromancers a Tarkas also conjectured that this river which flows by their city is the Nile and reason so invents us for the Nile flows from Libya and intersects it in the middle and as I conjecture things unknown from things known it sets out from a point corresponding with the Ister for the Ister beginning from the Celts and the city of Pyrenea divides Europe in its course but the Celts are beyond the pillars of Hercules and border on the territory of the Sinasians who lie in the extremity of Europe to the westward and the Ister terminates Europe into the Eugian Sea where a Malaysian colony is settled in Istria now the Ister as it flows through a well peopled country is generally known but no one is able to speak about the sources of the Nile because Libya through which it flows is uninhabited and desolate respecting this stream therefore as far as I was able to reach by inquiry I have already spoken it however discharges itself into Egypt and Egypt lies as near as may be opposite to the mountains of Silesia from Wenz to Sinopi on the Eugian Sea is a five days journey in a straight line to an active man and Sinopi is opposite to the Ister where it discharges itself into the sea so I think that the Nile of Libya may be properly compared with the Ister such then is the account that I am able to give respecting the Nile end of Herodotus account 2. Webb's River must be traced to its connection with some portion of the Old Nile when these two things have been accomplished then and not till then can the mystery of the Nile be explained the two countries through which the marvelous La Custrine River the Lualaba flows with its manifold lakes and broad expanse of water Arrua and Manuema for the first time Europe is made aware that between the Tanganyika and the known sources of the Congo there exist teaming millions of the Negro race who never saw or heard the Nile who makes such a noisy and busy stir outside of Africa upon the minds of those who had the good fortune to see the first specimens of these remarkable white races in Dr. Livingston he seems to have made a favorable impression though through misunderstanding his object and coupling him with the Arabs who make horrible work there his life was sought after more than once these two extensive countries Arrua and Manuema are populated by true heathens governed not as the sovereignty of Karagwa Urundi and Uganda by despotic kings but each village by its own sultan or lord 30 miles outside of their own immediate settlements the most intelligent of these small chiefs seem to know nothing 30 miles from the Lualaba there are but few people who have ever heard of the Great River such ignorance among the natives of their own country naturally increased the labors of Livingston compared with these all the tribes and nations in Africa with whom Livingston came in contact may be deemed civilized yet in the arts of home manufacturers these wild peoples of Manuema were far superior to any he had seen where other tribes and nations contented themselves with hides and skins of animals thrown negligently over their shoulders the people of Manuema manufactured a cloth from fine grass which may favorably compare with the finest grass cloth of India they also know the art of dyeing them in various colors black, yellow and purple the Wangwana or freedmen of Zanzibar struck with the beauty of the fabric eagerly exchanged their cotton cloths for fine grass cloth and on almost every black man from Manuema I have seen this native cloth converted into elegantly made Damaris Arabic short jackets these countries are also very rich in ivory the fever for going to Manuema to exchange twadry beads for its precious tusks is of the same kind as that which impelled men to go to the gulches and placers of California Colorado, Montana and Idaho after nuggets to Australia and diamonds to Cape Colony Manuema is at present the El Dorado of the Arab and the Wamrimi tribes it is only about four years since that the first Arab returned from Manuema with such wealth of ivory and reports about the fabulous quantities found there that ever since the old beaten tracks of Caragua Uganda, Euphipa and Marunga have been comparatively deserted the people of Manuema ignorant of the value of the precious article reared their huts upon ivory stanchions ivory pillars were common sites in Manuema and hearing of these one no longer wonder at the Pallas of Solomon for generations they have used ivory tusks as doorpost and to support the eaves until they had become perfectly rotten and worthless but the advent of the Arabs soon taught them the value of the article it has now risen considerably in price though still fabulously cheap at Zanzibar the value of per facila of 35 pounds weight is from 50 to 60 dollars according to its quantity in Umyam Yembe it is about 1 to 10 per pound but in Manuema it may be purchased for from half a cent to 14 cents worth of copper per pound of ivory the Arabs however have the knack of spoiling markets by their repacity and cruelty with muskets a small party of Arabs is invincible against such people as those of Manuema who until lately never heard the sound of a gun the discharge of a musket inspires mortal terror in them and it is almost impossible to induce them to face the muzzle of a gun they believe that the Arabs have stolen the lightning and that against such peoples the bow and arrow can have little effect they are by no means devoid of courage and they have often declared that were it not for the guns not one Arab would leave the country alive this tends to prove that they would willingly engage in fight with strangers who had made themselves so detestable were it not that the startling explosion of gunpowder inspires them with terror into what country the Arabs enter they contrive to render their name and race abominated but the main spring of it all is not the Arabs nature color or name but simply the slave trade so long as the slave trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar so long will these otherwise enterprising people the Arabs kindle against them the hatred of the natives when they enter Zanzibar into the interior of Africa these acts of cruelty are unknown for the very good reason that the natives having been armed with guns and taught how to use these weapons are by no means loathe to do so whenever an opportunity presents itself when too late they have perceived their folly and selling guns to the natives the Arabs now begin to valve vengeance on the person who will in future sell a gun to a native but they are all guilty of the same mistake and it is strange they did not perceive that it was folly when they were doing so in former days the Arab when protected by his slave escort armed with guns could travel through Yusugaha, Urori Yucanongo Yuffipa, Karagwa Unyore and Uganda with only a stick in his hand now however it is impossible for him or anyone else to do so every step he takes armed or unarmed is fraught with danger the Wusugaha near the coast detain him and demand the tribute or give him the option of war entering Yugo he is subjected every day to the same oppressive demand or to the fearful alternative the Weinyamwezi also show their readiness to take the same advantage the road to Karagwa is besieged with difficulties the terrible Marumba stands in the way defeats their combined forces with ease and makes raids even to the doors of their houses in Unya Mianbei and should they succeed in passing Marumbo a chief Swaruru stands before them and grants tribute by the Baal and against whom it is useless to contend these remarks have reference to the slave trade inaugurated in Manuema by the Arabs harassed on the road between Zanzibar and Unya Mianbei by minatory natives who with bloody hands are ready to avenge the slightest affront the Arabs have refrained from kidnapping between the Tanganyika but in Manuema where the natives are timid irresolute and divided into small weak tribes they recover their audacity and exercise their kidnapping propensities unchecked the accounts which the doctor brings from the new region are most deplorable he was an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed a massacre committed on the inhabitants of a populous district dissembled in the marketplace on the banks of the Lualaba as they had been accustomed to do for ages it seems that the Wenuema are very fond of marketing believing it to be the sumum bonum of human enjoyment they find endless pleasure in chaffering with might and main for the least might of their currency the last bead and when they gain the point when their talents are devoted they feel intensely happy the women are excessively fond of this marketing and as they are very beautiful the marketplace must possess considerable attractions for the male sex it was on such day amidst such a scene that Tagomoyo a half-cast Arab with his armed slave escort commenced an indiscriminate massacre by firing volley after volley into the dense mass of human beings it is supposed that there are about two thousand present and at the first sound of the firing these poor people all made a rush for their canoes in the fearful hurry to avoid being shot the canoes were paddled away by the first fortunate few who got possession of them those that were not so fortunate spring into the deep waters of the Lualaba and though many of them became prey to the voracious crocodiles which swarmed to the scene the majority received their deaths from the bullets of the merciless Tagomoyo and his villainous band the doctor believes as do the Arabs themselves that about 400 people mostly women and children lost their lives while many more were made slaves this outrage is only one of many such he has unwillingly witnessed and he is utterly unable to describe the feelings of loathing he fills for the inhuman perpetrators slaves from Anuema command a higher price than those of any other country because of their fine forms and general docility the women, the doctor said repeatedly are remarkably pretty creatures and have nothing except the hair in common with the negroes of the west coast of a very light color have fine noses well cut and not over full lips while the prognothos jaw is uncommon these women are equally sought after as wives by the half cast of the east coast and even the pure Omani Arabs do not disdain to take them in marriage to the north of Manuema Livingston came to the light complexioned race of the color of Portuguese or our own Louisiana quadrants who are very fine people and singularly remarkable for commercial cuteness and stagocity the women are expert divers for oysters which are found in great abundance in the Lualaba Rua at the place called Katanga is rich in copper the copper mines of this place have been worked for ages in the bed of the stream gold has been found washed down in pencil shaped pieces or in particles as large as split peas two Arabs have gone thither to prospect for this metal but as they are ignorant of the art of gold mining it is scarcely possible that they will succeed from these highly important and interesting discoveries Dr. Livingston was turned back when almost on the threshold of success by the positive refusal of his men to accompany him further they were afraid to go on unless accompanying by a large force of men and as these were not procurable in Manuema the doctor reluctantly turned his face toward Ugg it was a long and weary road back the journey had now no interest for him he had traveled the road before when going westward full of high hopes and aspirations impatient to reach the goal which promised him rest from his labors now returning unsuccessful baffled and thwarted when almost in sight of the end and having to travel the same path back on foot with disappointed expectations and defeated hopes praying on his mind no wonder that the old brave spirit almost succumbed and the strong constitution almost went to wreck Livingston arrived at Ugg October 16th almost at death's door on the way he had been trying to cheer himself up since he had found it impossible to contend against the obscenity of his men with it won't take long five or six months more it managed not since it cannot be helped he had to go to the streets at Ugg and can hire other people and make a new start again these are the words and hopes by which he tried to delude himself into the idea that all would be right yet but imagine the shock he must have suffered when he found that the man whom he entrusted his goods for safekeeping had sold every bell for ivory the evening of the day Livingston had returned to Ugg Susie and Chuma two of his most faithful men were seen crying bitterly the doctor asked of them what ailed them and was then informed for the first time of the evil tidings that awaited him said they all our things are sold sir Sharif has sold everything for ivory later in the evening Sharif came to see him and shamelessly offered his hand but Livingston repulsed him saying he could not shake hands with a thief as an excuse Sharif said he had divined on the Quran and that this had told him that the Hakim Arabic for doctor was dead Livingston was now destitute he had just enough to keep him and his men alive for about a month when he would be forced to beg from the Arabs the doctor further stated that when Spiek gave the altitude of the Tanganyika at only 1,800 feet above the sea Spiek must have fallen into that error by a frequent writing of the Anno Domini a mere slip of the pen for the altitude as he makes it out is 2,800 feet by boiling point and a little over 3,000 feet of water the doctor's complaints were many because slaves were sent to him in charge of goods after he had so often implored the people at Zanzibar to send him freemen a very little effort on the part of those entrusted with the dispatch of supplies to him might have enabled them to procure good and faithful freemen but if they contented themselves upon the receipt with sending to Lytidunji for men it is no longer a matter of wonder that dishonest and incapable slaves were sent forward it is no new fact that the doctor has discovered when he states that a negro freemen is a hundred times more capable and trustworthy than a slave centuries ago Umeas the herdsman said to Ulysses Joe fixed it certain that whatever day a man a slave takes half his worth away we passed several happy days at Ujiji and it was time we were now preparing for our cruise on the Tanganyika Livingston was improving every day under the different diet which my cook furnished him I could give him no sench suppers as that which Jupiter and Mercury received at the cottage of Bacchus and Philemon we had no berries Nerva, pickled cherries, endive radishes, dried figs, dates fragrant apples and grapes but we had cheese and butter which I had made myself new laid eggs chickens, roast mutton fish from the lake rich curds and cream wine from the guinea palm eggplants cucumbers, sweet potatoes peanuts and beans white honey from Ukuranga luscious singui a plum like fruit from the forest of Ujiji and corn, scones and dampers in place of wheat and bread during the noontide heats we sat under our veranda discussing our various projects and in the early morning and evening we sought the shores of the lake promenading up and down the beach to breathe the cool breezes which ruffled the surface of the water and rolled the unquiet surf far up on the smooth and whitened shore it was the dry season and we had most lovely weather the temperature never was over 80 degrees in the shade the marketplace overlooking the broad silver water afforded us amusement and instruction representatives of most of the tribes dwelling near the lake were daily found there there were the agricultural and pastoral wajiji with their flocks and herds there were the fishermen from Ukuranga and Kaoli from beyond Bangui and even from Urundi with their white bait which they called dogra the sillaris, the perch and other fish there were the palm oil merchants principally from Ujiji and Urundi with great 5 gallon pots full of reddish oil of the consistency of butter there were the salt merchants from the salt plains of Yuvinza and Uha there were the ivory merchants from Yuvera and Yusowa there were the canoe makers from Yugoma and Urundi there were the cheap jack peddlers from Zanzibar selling flimsy prints and brokers exchanging bloom attended beads for Sami Sami and Sangomazi and Sofi the Sofi beads are like pieces of thick clay pipe stem about half an inch long and are in great demand here here we found Mima, Uagoma Huavira Waseji Urundi Wajiji Waha Wavinza Wazua Wanguena Wakawendi Arabs and Wazawa Hili engaged in noisy chaffer and barter bareheaded and almost bare-bodied the youths make love to dark skinned and woolly headed felicis who knew not how to blush at the ardent gaze of love as their white sisters old matrons gossiped as the old women do everywhere the children played and laughed and struggled as children of our own lands and the old men leaning on their spears or bows were just as garrulous in the palace D.U.G.G. as aged elders in other climes end of chapter 12 part 4