 Hello and welcome back to the Sewalong for McCall's 8-1-2-1, this cute little moto jacket that we've been sewing together this week really for sure sewing, but we've also been working on it for quite some time because we had a lot of prep work that we had to do together as well. If you're just now joining us, I've got a list in the description box of all the videos that you've missed so far. We are doing Friday's checklist, which today is all about the collar, the lining, facing, yeah all of those things. So it's going to be a big day. We're going to get lots of different elements put together and then the jacket's really going to start shaping up. We're even hemming the jacket today so there's a lot to do. I've got the chapters so you can pick up where you left off. You don't have to skim through the video, just go through the chapters and find the one that's closest to where you left off. So let's get to working on this collar, head over to the work table and get sewing. All right so kicking things off today with a little bit of collar construction and installation, our first step is to stay stitch the jacket neck line between the large circles. So remember, stay stitching from like our very first step of this sew along. We're going to do the same thing there and while we're at our machines we're going to be taking our collar pieces, which are numbers 16 and 17 and we're going to be placing them right sides together and we're going to be stitching around all three sides but not this inner curve, just the outer curve. Trem seam allowances, we're going to clip the corners, all that kind of stuff, turn it right side out, press it and baste the raw edges together. So kind of a lot of steps there. Also if you're top stitching after that is when you will top stitch. So I'll meet you back here after I have this sewn together and I'll show you about pinning it to your neckline. Okay before we sew the bottom like the outer curved edge of the collar, I want to point out that they are not the same length. The what are they calling the upper collar, number 16 is a little bit bigger than number 17, the under collar. So you just kind of have to pin every so often and you're going to be stretching this under collar ever so slightly to get everything to lay flatly. Now we're not trying to get them to lay exactly the same at the raw edge, we're mostly concerned about the seam line. The seam lines will match even if the raw edges do not. Okay so put those together, match your centers, match your the notches that are provided and you will be rocking and rolling. Just take your time when you sew, you know stopping every so often to make sure everything's laying nice and flat. All right and after you've got it turned right side out you're going to match these raw edges and again when you do that it is going to create a little bit of a bubble on the outside to where the outer fabric is going to be rolling to the inside ever so slightly. This is a beautiful color construction and it's going to create such a stunning rolled collar when we're done. I'm really excited to see that in a McColl's pattern. Now we're replacing attaching the collar to the jacket. It is going to be your instinct to do these right sides together and that is wrong. So I'm going to take a lot of time and I'm going to repeat myself 45,000 times to make sure that you do not do this incorrectly because full disclosure, this is the third time I'm attaching this collar because I keep doing it backwards because my brain is telling me that things go right sides together but not this time. They are going to go wrong side of the collar to the right side of the jacket. That way when you sew these and you turn the collar under that's what you see. So wrong side of the collar to the right side of the jacket. Now go ahead mark your center and before you do anything else we're stopping again triple checking. Do you have the lining touching the outer part of your jacket? Do you only see pretty fabric? You should not see any lining. If you see lining it's upside down. Okay we're good. Okay let's move on. We're going to get it. We're going to get it. Okay so now we need to match big dots like so. Then there should be a little notch. There's one there and the one on our lining is here. Okay little notches those get matched up and then we should have a big triangle on the collar piece that gets matched up with our shoulder seam. Pulling that around. Okay and you were going to have a bigger jacket than collar and I am wondering if mine is so big well probably because I've sewn the collar three times now but also because we stay stitched the neckline on step 34. I think if I were doing this again I would stay stitch all of the neckline pieces in step one. Just go ahead and get that out of the way. We are working with this a lot. We've done tried it on you know all of that. So if you're doing this not with me or kind of just watching and following along for whenever you can get to sew yours go ahead and stay stitch in step one. Write that in the instructions or in your workbook that'll save you a lot of trouble but for those of us that are here now with various states of stretched out necklines just do what you can. We're going to make it work. The collar is going to cover up a lot of this. Okay so it's not like this is going to you know look terrible in the end no matter how it comes together. Just do the best you can. Through here through the shoulder and the center or shoulder to shoulder actually it should be pretty good because that part is flatter. It's not on as much of a curve like the shoulder seam is so you can pin that like that come around to the next shoulder and do this like so and make sure that whole shoulder seam is kind of flattened and then pair it together like that. That'll be a lot easier. We're trying to like curve the collar around and make you know make this more of a curved situation than it is flat currently but again we do not care what's happening at the raw edge. Okay I'm going to keep saying that. All we care about is what's happening at the seam line at this stays stitching line. If that looks flat then it doesn't matter what's happening anywhere else. Pull this down just a smidge. Okay and then come around and finish off your big circle and your small dots or small notches. I'm going to say it one last time. Do you only see pretty fabric? In all of that easing in did you somehow get your collar turned upside down? You should only see pretty fabric neckline all the way down. Okay if you sew it on upside down at this point that's on you. I've done all I can. I've done all I can. All right so we are basting this guy down all the way around basting stitch. Go nice and slow and that will help the feed dogs distribute the gathers. Even paint this down if that helps you not go fast. How did we do? Now at this point when you turn this up you should see the lining. That way when you fold this back all you see is pretty and you can see how that seam is completely covered. So again try not to stress about it too much but we do want to try and do a decent job of removing puckers. Like that's a very big one so I'm going to go in and fix that one but all of these through here well that one's kind of big too so I'll get that one. This looks good. Looks good. Looks good all the way around and then all of this there's one big one there so I'm going to get that one as well but honestly if you can't get them out this is what our collar is going to end up looking like. Let me get it on there correctly and you can see you genuinely cannot see that seam so don't stress about it too much. Where is my shoulder seam way up here? Okay so this is what the jacket is going to end up looking like. That seam is completely concealed okay if you do have big puckers though like that big one I showed you that's why I'm going to take that out because you will see that one but all of these little small ones guys I promise you're not going to see them at all but can we not just like take a minute especially me because I've done this freaking collar three times. Okay it looks great. It's worth it. The construction of this collar is amazing. All of that easing in all of that like things aren't matching up 100% and we have to make them fit is what is creating this beautiful rolled neckline and it is going to lay so beautifully around our necks. I'm so impressed that McCalls has a collar like this. Love love love love love this construction so much this is giving me a lot of good feelings that this jacket is going to turn out amazing. All right so I'm going to finish my picking out my puckers and fixing those and that's it we're not going to do any more stitching to the neckline we're just going to leave it with just the basting stitch and then move on to our lining and facing. All right so lining and facing we are going to be taking piece number 19 which is the right front facing which should be one of our interfaced pieces. Yes so number 19 here it's going to be your main fabric interfaced and we are stitching that to oh no we're ease what are we doing? We're e-stitching right front lining number 18. I skipped a step so this is number 18 it's our lining we should have one of them right so there is a dedicated right side so pin to mark the right front we mark the right side we do not have to mark this one number 19 because there's obviously right side and the wrong side. All right so number 18 and number 19 what we're working on we are me taking number 18 and ease stitching between the two notches so there's a notch here and then about four inches down there's another knot. Okay and while we are over at our machine we're going to go ahead and stay stitch the right side here so an ease stitch is gathering stitches long length 5.0 on my machine the longest stitch that your machine has that's an ease stitch stay stitch is your regular stitch length both of them are done at the seam line okay ease stitch the lining here stay stitch the lining over here once that's done you're going to be laying number 18 and number 19 on top of each other right sides together with this long edge okay so you should have an arm hole looking thing arm hole looking thing this whole long edge is what we are going to be stitching next using that ease stitching to ease in in this little baby curve that we have I'm going to show you on this one in detail and then you can apply the same exact technique to the other side so I'm matching up my shoulder seam I am matching up my notch my first notch matching up the lower notch not paying any attention to what's happening to this lining underneath okay we actually don't have to match all the way to the lower edge we need to go to within four inches of the lower edge on both okay so that means this guy here four inches one two three four so we just need to make sure to stitch past this point and not anything below it okay and then through here this like I said is not that extreme on this one but you were going to pull up these gathering stitches this ease stitch and you were just going to make sure that it's nice and flat we're not carrying what's happening at the raw edge if you guys learn nothing else from today's sew along it should be that okay and then go to your machine start sewing sewing here um and so all the way up this way and then we're going to be pressing the seam allowances toward the lining all right so once we have all that done so we've got our piece number two side panel we've got dedicated right sides so I am going to pin the right side of the fabric and then again like we did on the front or on the main part of the jacket too there is a right way and a wrong way to attach this so we have a single notch here and we want to make sure that that matches up with not the double notches but rather the single notch so this is the wrong piece if I try and put this down right sides together it's a double notch matched up with a single notch which we don't want so we're going to be matching this up like this matching our single notches our hems all the way up here just like we did in step well I don't know the first day whenever we were assembling the outer part of the jacket okay okay so then you're going to have that done then we're going to set this aside number two for the other side we're setting it aside we are grabbing piece number 20 which is our left front lining and just like we just did we are going to be ease stitching and stay stitching so it gets ease stitched between the two notches here it even says ease so that's your long stitch length and then stay stitched here which is your regular stitch length so you're going to do both of those to piece number 20 once you get that done then again these long edges opposite the arm curve get stitched together so and this one you can really see how different I mean we have got a con cave curve and a con vex curve if I've ever seen one whereas with this these kind of matched up pretty easily they look very similar so the ease stitching through here is going to be paramount so that you were able to get these two things to go together beautifully okay and then once we have that and then this will be on here like so and then you guessed it we take our other piece two and we lay that on here and again we should have a single notch matching up with a single notch all right so we have our fronts our front linings and facings gorge setting those aside grabbing our back piece and you can see on the tissue paper that there is information about a stitching line at the center back is not on the fold yada yada that is because we are creating this little um plate that is going to create a lot of wearing ease but not affect the way the lining fits in the neckline shoulders him all of that but all through here we're going to be able to like move our shoulders forward and this is going to spread and come back together um as we do that you see it a lot in like men's jackets but not for us women for some reason but that's all about to change today so um i'm going to put a pin down here just to make sure that i can keep all of this in line and then as you can imagine we're going to our sewing machine we're going to stitch down here back stitch we're going to start stitching here back stitch and come down to the raw edge sometimes they will have you do a regular stitch length here and then change to a basting stitch um just to help you get that accurate crisp uh pressing line so if you want to do that go ahead you just change to a longer stitch here and then come back to your regular stitch line here but then press all that to the left and then stay stitch your curved side edges and then as you can imagine we are attaching this seam to the little nugget here matching up double notches as you go and then right it's getting exciting we're putting our lining on okay so we are going to again stay stitch the lining between the large circles so go to your machine stay stitch just like we did a few steps ago and then this whole thing gets placed right sides together and we are going to be going all the way from the hem well i should say not the hem but the small dot so there's a small dot on the facing and there's a small dot on your jacket and so that's where you're starting your lining and then it comes all the way to the top encasing your zipper and then all the way around your neck edge and then back down the other side and the other sides get matched up the hems of the other ones get matched up exactly so then trim everything clip your corners turn it right side out and then baste your arm size so here all that is step by step all right we're gonna do a quick little hem and we are done for the day so the hem is one and a half inches and i have shared this little trick before but if you've missed it this is how i mark my hems so the hem is one and a half inches and then i take my little ruler and i measure up three inches because if you were to mark the one and a half inch mark and then you go to turn this up well you can't see your mark anymore so i always mark three inches up so that i get that perfect one and a half inch every single time so i'm gonna do that all the way around we are gonna press that up we're gonna baste close to the folds we're gonna baste through here and then we're gonna sew the hem in place now there are times because this is on a curve where we might need to do some more easing i know you guys are probably like i never want to use anything ever again in my life i feel you um but this is the last little bit so we're gonna do that and let's meet back here after that all right so now we are going to be catch stitching the facings to the hem which means this little thing i'm a jig here that's hanging over the bottom part of your hem is going to overlap your facing and so we need to make that nice and pretty so this gets turned up and then kind of folded over your facing and then all of that gets hand stitched down i mean i guess you could do it by machine but then obviously you would see it on the right side so it's completely up to you how you want to finish that oh but it has to be within this little lining situation if it sticks out like this then obviously you're gonna have a raw edge so turn it all the way back it's more of like a diagonal yes there we go that way when we stitch our lining down it will conceal this and you will have a really pretty finish there so again you can do it by machine if you want um but do it by hand guys it'll be so much prettier on the right side you know then they don't actually show us the other side so i'm kind of like making it up but i think what happens is you turn all of this flat and then this gets turned up along the five eights and then gets folded back over again yeah that looks pretty i feel like we could have done that by machine when we when we did the like so the lining to the thing right can't you just go like this was i supposed to do that i don't know what happened okay so i think if i undid all of this stitching that i already did you could easily i don't know how i missed that um but we're just going to do it this way just as easy i'll have my hand stitching stuff out anyways so we get this little number i did stitch across that but it didn't catch the hem i don't know i don't know what happened something something happened there um okay so now we have that done we're going to assume that this has all been hand stitched down looks nice and beautiful this gets turned under and then the actual lining itself also gets turned under five eighths of an inch so again if we're doing my little special math thing i am going to do um but it gets turned under this way okay so turn all of this lift this up out of the way so we've got the wrong side of the facing facing up and two five eighths five eighths times two is one and a quarter so i'll mark one and a quarter all the way around and then i'll have my perfect five eighths inch hem i will press that all the way around and then pretending that we've done that here is that marking pretending we've done this all the way around all of this gets slipped stitched that's hard to say slipped stitched down but it doesn't get slipped stitched slipped stitched down um in line with the hem okay so your raw edges the raw edge of the hem up here is actually what gets met up with the raw edge of the lining and when you do that it creates this fold at the bottom of your jacket again for wearing ease so if you're lifting your arms up moving around this is going to be able to shift up and give you that little bit of extra wearing ease down here at the hem so all of this gets hand sewn um there is a process called like bagging aligning i don't love it um it's just not a personal preference of mine i think it always turns out a million times better when you just do it by hand so put on a good movie the oscars are on this weekend like a lot of good movies out and go ahead and just slip stitch this down all the way around so how are we feeling at the end of this video by now you should have what looks a lot like a vest it should look like a moto vest which probably is super cool in and of itself depending on what fabric you use me however though i want to put the sleeve on that's what we're going to do tomorrow um but yeah i'll meet you back here tomorrow i'm going to post on saturday um so i'll meet you back here tomorrow where we're going to sew the sleeve and then you'll have the whole weekend to kind of finish this up on your own time