 9. Departure for Carpentaria, Diary of the Explorers On the morning of 16 December 1860 Mr. Burke assembled the whole of the party at Cooper's Creek, and formally appointed Bratt to remain as officer-in-charge of the depot until Wright's arrival. He then shook hands with the different men, one of whom, Patton, much disappointed at not being taken on with his leader, shed tears, and, indeed, the whole of the party were anxious to go on. But there was no complaining. All were in excellent health and good spirits, and the advance party were accompanied to their first camp, twenty-two miles down the creek, by Bratt, who was decided to await his leader's return at Cooper's Creek, until obliged to leave by absolute necessity. These are the words employed in Mr. Will's last letter to his father. Royal Commission, Question 318 End of Footnote Written and read over to Mr. Burke and King, by whom they were certified as correct, when all three began to feel that their last chance of life was rapidly passing away. Footnote, Question 1069 End of Footnote There can therefore be little doubt that whatever the precise words may have been in which the instructions were given, considerable pains were taken both before Mr. Burke's departure, and during the first day's journey, to impress upon Bratt that he was not to leave Cooper's Creek to return to the Darling, until the return off the exploring party from Carpentaria. It has been stated that although the provisions taken on were only calculated to last for three months, yet a period of four months' absence was alluded to as quite possible. And this was impressed by Mr. Will's upon Bratt, with a request that four months might be allowed to pass before he quitted the depot. In justice to Bratt, it is only right to say that he did actually remain more than four months, though at the same time it was in his power to have waited much longer. On first starting the party were well supplied with food, the following being the average daily ration. One pound of damper, a kind of bread, three-quarters of a pound of dried meat, and a quarter of a pound of salt-pork, besides which about a quarter of a pound of rice for each was boiled every second day. Their entire stock was as follows. About three hundred pounds of flour, a hundred and ten pounds of dried meat, thirty pounds of meat biscuit, ninety pounds of salt-pork, fifty pounds of oatmeal, fifty pounds of sugar, fifty pounds of rice, twelve pounds of tea, five pounds of salt. A few tins of preserved vegetables and some butter. In addition to these provisions it was found that the country through which they travelled supplied them with a leafy and nutritious vegetable called Portulac, which proved a great assistance to the party in eking out their limited supply of rations. King conducted the six camels, Gray led the horse, which he was often allowed to ride after he began to complain of illness. Mr. Burke and Wills walked ahead, steering in turn by means of a pocket compass, and in halting at night the former was always particular in selecting above all things a good place for the camels to feed. The details of the successful journey of these strong men are given as follows in the diary of the party. The diary, written daily with few exceptions by Mr. Wills, was subsequently transcribed under the superintendents of Dr. Mueller, one of the members of the Committee of the Royal Society. Apart from the special interest attaching to the actual writing left by the explorers, the story cannot be better told than in the truthful and graphic language of the amiable accomplished and heroic man who wrote it, under circumstances of the most difficult and trying nature. Coopers Creek to Carpentaria Footnote The omissions in the diary are supplied as far as possible by the information contained in the maps. End of footnote. Field Book No. 1 Sunday, December 1860 The two horses having been shot and our reports finished, we started at 6am for Ayers Creek, the party consisting of Mr. Burke, myself, King and Charlie. Footnote Gray. End of footnote. Having with us six camels, one horse and three months' provisions, we follow down the creek to the point where the sandstone rangers crossed the creek and were accompanied to that place by Bra, who would return to take charge of the depot. Down to this point the banks of the creek are very rugged and stony, but there is a terrible supply of grass and salt bush in the vicinity. A large tribe of blacks came pestering us to go to their camp and have a dance, which we declined. They were very troublesome and nothing but the threat to shoot them will keep them away. They are, however, easily frightened and, although fine-looking men, decidedly not offer war-like disposition. They show the greatest inclination to take whatever they can, but will run no unnecessary risk in so doing. They seldom carry any weapons except a shield and a large kind of boom-rang, which I believe they use for killing rats, etc. Sometimes, but very seldom, they have a large spear. Reed's spear seems to be quite unknown to them. They are undoubtedly a finer and better-looking race of men than the blacks on the Murray and the Darling, and more peaceful. But in other respects I believe they did not compare favourably with them, for from the little we have seen of them they appear to be mean-spirited and contemptible in every respect. Monday, December 17, 1860 We continue to follow down the creek, found its course very crooked and the channel frequently dry for a considerable distance, and then forming magnificent water-holes, abounding in waterfowl of all kinds. The country on each side is more open than on the upper part of the creek. The soil on the plains is of a light earthy nature, supporting abundance of salt, bush and grass. Most of the plains are lightly timbered, and the ground is finer, and not cracked up, like at the head of the creek. Left Camp No. 67 at 10 minutes to 6 a.m., having breakfasted before leaving. We follow the creek along from point to point, at first in a direction of west-northwest, for about 12 miles, then about northwest. At about noon we pass the last water, a short distance beyond which the creek runs out on a polygonum flat, polygonum-cunning-hammy. But the timber was so large and dense that it deceived us into the belief that there was a continuation of the channel. On crossing the polygonum ground to where we expected to find the creek, we became aware of our mistake. Not thinking it advisable to chance the existence of water ahead, we camped at the end of a large but shallow sheet of water in the sandy bed of the creek. The hole was about 150 links broad and blank, feet deep in most places. Footnote, sick in original. End of footnote. In most places the temperature of the water was almost incredibly high, which induced me to try it in several places. The mean of two on the shady side of the creek gave 97.4 degrees. As may be imagined, this water tasted disagreeably warm, but we soon cooled some in water bags. And thinking that it would be interesting to know what we might call cool, I placed the thermometer in a panicin containing some that appear delightfully cool, almost cold in fact. Its temperature was, to our astonishment, 78 degrees. At half-past six when a strong wind was blowing from south and temperature of the air had fallen to 80 degrees. The lowest temperature of water in the hose that had been exposed to the full effect of evaporation for several hours was 72 degrees. This water for drinking appeared positively cold, too low a temperature to be pleasant under the circumstances. A remarkably southerly squall came on between five and six p.m. with every appearance of rain. The sky however soon cleared, but the wind continued to blow in a squally and irregular manner from the same quarter at evening. Wednesday, December 19, 1860 started at a quarter-past eight a.m., leaving what seemed to be the end of Coopers Creek. We took a course a little to the north of west, intending to try and obtain water in some of the creeks that Sturt mentioned, that he had crossed, and at the same time to see whether they were connected with Coopers Creek, as appeared most probable from the direction in which we found the latter running, and from the manner in which it had been breaking up into small channels flowing across the plains in a north and north-northwesterly direction. We left on our right the flooded flats on which this branch of the creek runs out, and soon came to a series of sand ridges, the direction of which was between north-half-west and north-northwest. The country is well grasped and supports plenty of salt-bush. Many of the valleys are liable to be inundated by the overflow of the main creek. They have water-courses and polygonum flats bordered with box-trees, but we met with no holes fit to hold the supplier water. At about ten miles we crossed a large earthy flat, lightly timbered with box and gum. The ground was very bad for travelling on, being much cracked up and intersected by innumerable channels, which continually carried off the water off a large creek. Some of the valleys beyond this were very pretty. The ground being sound and covered with fresh plants, which made them look beautifully green. At fifteen miles we halted where two large plains joined. Our attention had been attracted by some red-breasted cockatoos, pigeons, a crow, and several other birds, whose presence made us feel sure that there was water not far off. But our hopes were soon destroyed by finding a clay pan just drying up. It contained just sufficient liquid to make the clay boggy. At ten minutes to seven p.m. we moved on, staring straight for Ayers Creek, north-west by north, intending to make a good night's journey and avoid the heat of the day. But at a mile-and-a-half we came to a creek which looked so well that we followed it for a short distance. And finding two or three water-holes with milky water, we camped for the night. This enabled me to secure an observation off the eclipse of Jupiter's one satellite, as well as some latitude observations. The night was so calm that I used the water as a horizon, but I find it much more satisfactory to take the mercury for several reasons. Thursday, December twenty-one, in brackets, twenty, end of bracket. We did not leave this camp until half past eight, having delayed to refill the water bags with the milky water, which all of us found to be a great tree to gain. It is certainly more pleasant to drink than the clear water, and at the same time more satisfying. Our course from here, north-west by north, took us through some pretty country, lightly timbered and well-granced. We could see the line of creek timber winding through the valley on our left. At a distance of five miles there was a bush fire on its banks, and beyond it the creek made a considerable bend to the southwest. At two miles farther we came in sight of a large lagoon bearing north by west, and at three miles more we camped on what would seem the same creek as last night, near where it enters to the lagoon. The latter is of great extent and contains a large quantity of water, which swarms with wild fowl of every description. It is very shallow, but is surrounded by the most pleasing woodland scenery, and everything in the vicinity looks fresh and green. The creek near its junction with the lagoon contains some good water-holes five to six feet deep. They are found in a sandy alluvium, which is very boggy when wet. There was a large camp of not less than 40 or 50 blacks near where we stopped. They brought us presence of fish for which we gave them some beads and fishes. These fish we found to be a most valuable addition to our rations. They were of the same kind as we had found elsewhere, but finer, being nine to ten inches long and two to three inches deep, and in such good condition that they might have been fried in their own fat. It is a remarkable fact that these were the first blacks who have offered us any fish since we reached Cooper's Creek. We left Camp 70 at half past five a.m. and tried to induce one or two of the blacks to go with us, but it was of no use. Keeping our former course, we were pulled up at three miles by a fine lagoon, and then by the creek that flows into it, the latter being full of water we were obliged to trace it a mile up before we could cross. I observed on its banks two wild plants of the gourd or melon tribe, one much resembling a stunted cucumber. The other, both in leaf and appearance of fruit, was very similar to a small model of watermelon. Probably muckier, mccranther. The latter plant I also found at Camp 68. On tasting the pulp of the newly found fruit, which was about the size of a large pea, I found it to be so accurate that it was with difficulty that I removed the taste from my mouth. At eight or nine miles from where we crossed the creek, we passed another large lagoon. Leaving at two miles on our left and shortly afterwards, we saw one nearly as far on our right. This last we should have availed ourselves of, but that we expected to find water in a creek which we could see by the timber lining its banks flowed from the lagoon on our left and crossed our course a few miles ahead. We reached to at a distance of four or five miles farther than the splendid waterhole at which we camped. The creek at this point flows in a northerly direction through a large, lightly timbered flat on which it partially runs out. The ground is, however, sound and well clothed with grass and salsalaceous plants. Up to this point, the country through which we have passed has been of the finest description for pastoral purposes. The grass and salt bush are everywhere abundant and plentiful with every appearance of permanence. We met with porcupine grass, triodea pungent's beer and only two sand ridges before reaching Camp 71. Cooper's Creek to Carpentaria Field Book Number 2 Latitude 27 degrees to 25.5 degrees south Station 72 to 73. Saturday December 22. At five minutes to five a.m., we left one of the most delightful camps we have had in the journey and proceeded on the same course as before, north-west by north, across some high ridges of loose sand, many of which were partially clothed with porcupine grass. We found the ground much worse to travel over than any we have yet met with, as the ridges were exceedingly abrupt and steep on the eastern side, and although sloping gradually towards the west were so honeycombed in some places by the burrows of rats that the camels were continually in danger of falling. At a distance of about six miles, we descended from these ridges to undulating country of open box forest where everything was green and fresh. There is an abundance of grass and salt bushes and lots of birds of all descriptions. Several flocks of pigeons passed over our heads, making for a point a little to our right, where there is, no doubt, plenty of water. But we did not go off our course to look for it. Beyond the box forest which kept away to the right, we again entered the sand ridges, and at a distance of six miles passed close to a dry salt lagoon, the ridges in the vicinity of which are less regular in their form and direction and contain nodules of limestone. The ground in the flats and clay pans near has the encrusted surface that cracks under the pressure of the foot and is a sure indication of the presence of saline deposits. At a distance of eight miles from the lagoon we camped at the foot of a sand ridge jutting out on the stony desert. I was rather disappointed but not altogether surprised to find the latter nothing more nor less than the stony rises that we had before met with, only on a larger scale and not quite as undulating. During the afternoon several crows came to feed on the plain. They came from a east north east direction. No doubt from a portion of the creek that flows through the forest that we left on our right. In the morning as we were loading a duck passed over but it was too dark to see which way it went. Sunday December 23. At five a.m. we struck out across the desert in a west north west direction. At four miles and a half we crossed a sand ridge and then returned to our north west by north course. We found the ground not nearly so bad for travelling on as that between Balu and Coopers Creek. In fact I do not know whether it arose from our exaggerated anticipation of horrors or not but we thought it far from bad travelling ground. And as to pasture it is only the actually stony ground that is bare and many a sheep run is in fact worse gracing than that. At fifteen miles we crossed another sand ridge for several miles around which there is plenty of grass and fine salt bush. After crossing this ridge we descended to an earthy plain where the ground was rather heavy being in some places like pieces of slaked lime and intersected by small water courses. Flocs of pigeons rose from amongst the salt bushes and polygonum but all the creeks were dry although marked by lines of box timber. Several gun yards of the blacks were situated near a water hole that had apparently contained water very lately and heaps of grass were lying about the plains from which they had beaten the seeds. We pushed on hoping to find the creeks assuming an improved appearance but they did not and at one o'clock we halted intending to travel through part of the night. About sunset three flocks of pigeons passed over us all going in the same direction due north by compass and passing over a ridge of sand in that direction. Not to have taken notice of such an occurrence would have been a little short of a sin so we determined to go eight or ten miles in that direction. Starting at seven o'clock p.m. we at six miles crossed the ridge over which the birds had flown and came on a flat subject inundation. The ground was at first hard and even like the bottom of a clay pan but at a mile or so we came on cracked earthy ground intersected by numberless small channels running in all directions. At nine miles we reached the bed of a creek running from east to west. It was only bordered by polygon and bushes but as there was no timber visible on the plains we thought it safer to halt until daylight for fear we would miss the water. At daylight when we had saddled a small quantity of timber could be seen at the point of a sand ridge about one and a half to two miles to the west of us. And on going there we found a fine creek with a splendid sheet of water more than a mile long and averaging nearly three chains broad. It is however only two or three feet deep in most parts. Monday December 24 1860 We took a day of rest on Grace Creek to celebrate Christmas. This was doubly pleasant as we had never in our most sanguine moments anticipated finding such a delightful oasis in the desert. Our camp was really an agreeable place for we had all the advantages of food and water attending a position of a large creek or river and were at the same time free of the annoyance of the numberless ants, flies and mosquitoes that are invariably met with amongst timber or heavy scrub. Tuesday December 25 1860 We left Grace Creek at half past four a.m. and proceeded to cross the earthy rotten plains in the direction of Airst Creek. At a distance of about nine miles we reached some lines of trees and bushes which were visible from the top of the sand ridges at Grace Creek. We found them growing on the banks which trend to the north and north northwest. At a mile and a half further we crossed a small creek north northeast and joining the ones above mentioned. This creek contained abundance of water in small detached holes from fifty to one hundred links long well shaded by steep banks and overhanging bushes. The water had a suspiciously transparent colour and a slight trace of brackishness but the latter were scarcely perceptible. Near where the creek joined them is a sand hill and a dense massifying timber. The smoke of a fire indicated the presence of blacks who soon made their appearance and followed us for some distance. Beckoning us away to the northeast we however continued our course to the northwest by north but at a distance of a mile and a half found that the creeks did not come round as we expected and that the fall of the water was direction nearly opposite to our course or about west to east. We struck off north-half west for a high sand ridge from which we anticipated seeing whether it were worthwhile for us to follow the course of the creeks we had crossed. We were surprised to find all the water courses on the plains trending rather to the south of east and at a distance of three miles after changing our course and when we approached the sand hills towards which we had been steering we were agreeably pulled up by a magnificent creek coming from the north northwest and running in the direction of the fire we had seen. We had now no choice but to change our course again for we could not have crossed even if we had desired to do so. On following up the south bank of the creek we found it soon keeping a more northerly course than it had where we first struck it. This fact together with its altitude and general appearance lessened the probability of its being Erse Creek as seemed at first very likely from their relative positions and directions. The day being very hot and the camels tied from travelling over the earthy plains which by the by are not nearly so bad as those at the head of Cooper's creek we camped at one o'clock p.m. having traced the creek up about five miles not counting the bends. For the whole of this distance we found not a break or interruption of water which appears to be very deep. The banks are from 20 to 30 feet above the water and very steep. They are clothed near the water's edge with mint and other weeds and on the top of each side there is a belt of box-trees and various shrubs. The lower part of the creek is bounded towards the north by a high red sand ridge and on the south side by numerous water courses which drain off the water in flood time. The greater portion of the plain is at present very bare but the stalks of dry grass show that after rain or floods there will be a good crop on the harder and well-drained portion but I believe the loose earthy portion support no vegetation at any time. The inclination of the ground from the edge of the creek bank towards the plain is in many places very considerable. It is such a take to indicate that the flooding is or has been at one time both frequent and regular. Wednesday December 26 1860 We started at 5am following up the creek from point to point off the bends. Its general course was at first north by west but at about 6 miles the sand ridge on the west closed in on it and at this point it takes a turn to the north northeast for half a mile and runs around suddenly northwest. Up to this point it had been rather improving in appearance than otherwise but in the bend to the northwest the channel is very broad. Its bed being limestone rock and engerade clay is for a space of five or six chains quite dry then commences another waterhole the creek keeping a little more towards north. We crossed the creek here and struck across the plain to see the liner timber coming up to the sand ridges in that direction. For a distance of 7 or 8 miles we did not touch the creek and the eastern sand ridge receded to a distance in some places of nearly three miles from our line leaving an immense extent of grassy plain between it and the creek. The distinctly marked feature on the lower part of this creek is that whenever the main creek is on one side of a plain there is always a fine billybong on the other side each of them almost invariably sticking close to the respective sand ridges. Before coming to the next bend of the creek a view from the top of a sand hill showed me that the creek receives a large tributary from the northwest at about two miles above where we had crossed it. A fine line of timber running up to the northwest joined an extensive tract of box forest and the branch we were following towards the north. The sand ridge was so abrupt when we came to the creek that it was necessary to descend into its bed through one of the small ravines adjoining it. We found it partially run out the bed being sand and strewed with nodules of lime some of which were one and a half to two feet long. They had apparently been formed in the sand downs by infiltration. Coopers Creek to Carpentaria latitude south 25 and a half degrees to 23 and three quarters degrees. Station 78 to 85. Tuesday December 30 1860. Finding that the creek was trending considerably towards the east without much likelihood of altering its course we struck off from it taking a 10 day supply of water as there were ranges visible to the north which had the appearance of being stony. A northeast by north course was first taken for about seven miles in order to avoid them. The whole of this distance was over alluvial earthy plains the soil of which was firm but the vegetation scanty. Coopers Creek to Carpentaria field book number four camp 85 to 90 latitude 23 and three quarter degrees 22 and a quarter degrees. Fine country tropics. Saturday December 30 1860. Saturday January 5 1861. On leaving camp 84 we found slight but distinct indications of rain in the groves and a few blades of grass and small weeds in the little depressions on the plain. These indications were however so slight that but for the fact of our having found surface water in two holes near our camp we should hardly have noticed them. At a distance of about two miles in a north northeast direction we came to a creek with a long broad shallow waterhole. The well worn paths the recent track of natives and the heaps of shells on the contents of which the latter had feasted showed at once that this creek must be connected with some creek of considerable importance. The camels and horses being greatly in need of rest we only moved up about half a mile and camped for the day. Sunday January 6 1861. Started at 20 minutes to six o'clock intending to make an easy day stage along the creek. As we proceeded up in a northerly direction we found the waterhole to diminish in size very much and at about two and a half miles the creek ran out in a lot of small water courses. At the upper end of the creek we found in its bed what appeared to be an arrangement for catching fish. It consisted of a small oval mud paddock about 12 feet by 8 feet the sides of which were about 9 inches above the bottom of the hole and the top of the fence. Covered with long grass so arranged that the ends of the blades overhung scantily by several inches the sides of the hole. As there was no sign of timber to the north we stared off to northwest by north for a fine line that came up from the southwest and seemed to run parallel with the creek we were about to leave. At a distance of about three miles we reached the bank of a fine creek containing a sheet of water two chains broad and at least 15 feet deep in the middle. The banks are shelving, sandy and lightly clothed with box trees and various shrubs. On starting to cross the plains towards this creek we were surprised at the bright green appearance of strips of land which look in the distance like swamps. On approaching some of them we found that there had been a considerable fall of rain in some places which had raised a fine crop of grass and porchillac porchillaca oleraska L, wherever the soil was of a sandy and light nature but the amount of moisture had been insufficient to affect the hard clay year ground which constitutes the main portion of the plain. The sight of two native companions feeding here added greatly to the encouraging prospects. They are the only specimens of that bird that I remember to have seen on that side of the Darling. Monday January 7 We started at half past 4am without water thinking that we might safely rely on this creek for one day's journey. We however found the line of timber soon begin to look small. At three miles the channel contained only a few pools of surface water. We continued across the plains on a due north course frequently crossing small water courses which had been filled by the rain but were fast drying up. Here and there as we proceeded dens lines of timber on our right showed that the creek came from the east of north. At a distance of 13 miles we turned to the north northeast towards the fine liner timber. We found a creek of considerable dimensions that had only two or three small water holes but as there was more than sufficient for us and very little feed for the bees anywhere else we camped. I should have liked this camp to have been in a more prominent and easily recognised position as it happens to be almost exactly on the tropic of Capricorn. The tremendous gale of wind that we had in the evening and night prevented me from taking a latitude observation whereas I had some good ones at the last camp and at camp 86. My reckoning cannot be far out. I found on taking out my instruments one of the spare thermometers was broken and the glass off my aneroid barometer cracked, the latter I believe not otherwise injured. This was done by the camel having taken it into his head to roll while the pack was on his back. Tuesday, January 8 Started at quarter past five a.m. with a load of water determined to be independent of all creeks and water courses. At a mile and a half found surface water in a small creek and at a mile farther water in two or three places on the open plains. The country we cross for the first ten miles consists of fine open plains or firm agalaceous soil too stiff and hard to be affected by the small quantity of rain that has fallen as yet. They are subject to inundations from the overflow of a number of small creeks which intersects them in a direction east northeast to west southwest. Nearly all the creeks cross trees and trumps in a tolerably healthy state. Of the remains of dead trees there is only a fair proportion to the living ones. After traversing a plain of greater extent than the rest we at ten miles reach the creek proportionately large and important looking. The channel however at the point where we struck it was deep, level and dry but I believe there is water in it not far off for there were some red breasted twos in the trees and native parrots on each side. On the north side there is a part bearing off to the north northwest. Their mirage on the plain to the south of the creek was stronger than I have before seen it. There appear to be sheets of water within a few yards of one and it looks sufficiently smooth and glassy to be used for an artificial horizon. To the westward of the plains some fine sand hills were visible in the direction in which the creek flowed. To the north of the creek the country undergoes a great change. At first there is a little earthy land subject to inundation. The soil then becomes more sandy with stony pans in which water collects after rain. The whole country is slightly undulating lightly timbered and splendidly grassed. A number of small disconnected creeks are scattered about, many of which contain water protected from the sun and wind by a luxuriant growth of fine grasses and small bushes. We passed one or two little rices of sand and pebbles on which were growing some trees quite new to me. But for the sea pods I should have taken them for a species of cassurina. Although the leaf stalks have not the jointed peculiarities of those plants. The trunks and branches are like the sheaoke. The leaves like those of a pine. They droop like a willow and it is small flat in a large flat pod about six inches by three quarters of an inch. As we proceeded the country improved at every step flocks the pigeons rose and flew off to the eastward and fresh plants met our view on every rise everything green and luxuriant. The horse licked his lips and tried all he could to break his no-string in order to get at the food. We camped at the foot of a sandy rice where there was only a tiny pan with plenty of water and where the feed was equal in quality and superior as to variety to any that I have seen in Australia accepting perhaps on some soils of volcanic origin. Wednesday, January 9 started at five minutes past five without water trusting to get a supply of water from the rain that fell during the thunderstorm. Traversed six miles of undulating plains covered with vegetation richer than ever. Several ducks rose from the little creeks as we passed and flocks of pigeons were flying in all directions. The richness of the vegetation is evidently not suddenly arising from chance thunderstorms. For the trees and bushes on the open plain are everywhere healthy and fresh looking. Very few dead ones are to be seen. Besides which the quantity of dead and rotten grass which at present almost overgrows in some places the young blades shows that this is not the first crop of the kind. The grasses are numerous and many of them unknown to me but they only constitute a moderate portion of the herbage. Several kinds of spurious vetchers and porchillac as well as cell salaceae add to the luxuriance of the vegetation. At seven miles we found ourselves in an open forest country where the feed was good but not bad past. Neither had it been visited by yesterday's rain. We soon emerged again on open plains but the soil being of a more clayy nature they were not nearly so much advance in vegetation as the others. We found surface water in several places and at one spot disturbed a fine busted which was feeding in the long grass. We did not see him until he flew up. I should have mentioned that one flew over our camp last evening in a northerly direction. This speaks well for the country and climate. At noon we came to a large creek the course of which was from east northeast to west southwest. The sight of white gum trees in the distance had raised hopes which were not at all damped on a close inspection of the channel. At the point where we struck it there was certainly no great quantity of water. The bed was broad and sandy but its whole appearance was that of the watercourse and the large gums which lined its banks together with the improved appearance of the soil and the abundance of feed in the vicinity satisfied us to the permanency of the water and the value of the discovery. Although it was so early in the day and we were anxious to make a good march yet we camped here as it seemed to be almost a sin to leave such good quarters. The bed of the creek is loose sand it is however sufficiently coarse not to be boggy and animals can approach the water without any difficulty. Thursday January 10 at twenty minutes past five a.m. we left our camp with a full supply of water determined to risk no reverses and to make a good march. I should mention the last evening we had been nearly deafened by the noise of the cicada and but for our large fires should have been kept awake from the mosquitoes. A walk of two miles across a well grassed plain brought us to a belt of timber and we soon afterwards found ourselves pulled up by a large creek in which the water was broad and deep. We had to follow up the bank of the creek in a northeasterly direction for nearly a mile before we could cross when to our joy we found that it was flowing. Not a muddy stream from the effects of recent floods but a small water as clear as crystal. The bed of the river at this place is deep and rather narrow. The water flows over sand and pebbles winding its way between clumps of Malaluca and gum saplings. After leaving the river we kept our old course due north crossing in a distance of one mile three creeks with gum trees on their banks. The soil of the flats through which they flow is a red loam of fair quality and well grassed. Beyond the third creek is a large plain parts of which are very stony and this is bounded towards the east by a low stony rice partly composed of decayed and honeycombed quartz rocks in situ and partly of waterworn pebbles and other alluvial deposits. At about two miles across this plain we reached the first of a series of small creeks with deep water holes. These creeks and holes have the characteristics peculiar to water courses which are found in flats formed from the alluvial deposits of schistose rocks. The banks are on a level with the surrounding ground and are irregularly marked by small trees or only by tufts of long grass which overhang the channel and frequently hide it from one's view even when within a few yards. At about five miles from where we crossed the river we came to the main creek in these flats Patterns Creek. It flows along at the foot of a stony range and we had to trace it up nearly a mile in a north northeast direction before we could cross it. As it happened we might almost as well have followed its course up the flat for a little more than two miles we came to it again. We recrossed at a stony place just below a very large waterhole and then continued our course over extensive plains not so well grasped as what we had passed before and very stony in some places. At eight miles from Patterns Creek we came to another running from southwest to southeast. There was plenty of water in it but it was evidently the result of recent local rains. On the banks was an abundance of good feed but very little timber. Friday January 11 started at five a.m. and in the excitement of exploring fine well watered country forgot all about the eclipse of the sun until the reduced temperature and peculiarly gloomy appearance of the sky drew our attention to the matter. It was then too late to remedy the deficiency so we made a good day's journey. The moderation of the midday heat which was only about 86 degrees greatly assisting us. The country traversed has the most burden and cheerful aspect abundance of feed and water everywhere. Today have a course more or less to east by south. The land improves in appearance at every mile. A quantity of rain has fallen here and to the south and some of the flats are suitable for cultivation if the regularity of the seasons will admit. Cooper's Creek to Carpentaria field book number five camp 92 to 98 latitude 22 and a quarter degrees to 21 and a quarter degrees. Standish Rangers Saturday January 12 We started at 5am and keeping as nearly as possible a due north course. Traverse for about 8 miles a splendid flat through which flow several fine well watered creeks lined with white gum trees. We then entered a series of slightly low sandstone ranges amongst which were some well grassed. Bracket in the main gullies. The more stony portions are however covered with porcupine grass and here and there with mally. Large ant hills are very numerous they vary in height from 2 feet and a half to 4 feet. There was a continuous rise perceptible all the way in crossing the ranges and from the highest portion which we reached at a distance of about 7 miles we had a pretty good view of the country north. As far as we could see in the distance and bearing due north was a large range having somewhat the outline of a granite mountain. The east end of this range just comes up to the magnetic north. To the left of this and bearing north northwest is a single conical peak the top of which only is visible. Farther to the west there were some broken ranges apparently sandstone. To the east of north the tops are apparently higher ranges were seen. The outline of which was so indistinct that I can form no idea as to their character. The intermediate country below us appeared alternations of fine valleys and stony ranges such as we had just been crossing. From here a descent of 2 miles brought us to a creek having a northern course but on tracing it down for about a mile we found it turned to the southeast and joined another from the north. We crossed over to the latter on a north by west course and camped on the west bank. It has a broad sandy channel the water holes are large but not deep the banks are bordered with fine white gums and are in some places very scrubby. There is abundance of rich green feed everywhere in the vicinity. We found numerous indications of blacks having been here but saw nothing of them. It seems remarkable that where their tracks are so beautiful we should have seen none since we left Kings Creek. I observed that the natives here climb trees like those on the Murray etc. in search of some animal corresponding in habits to the opossum which they get out of the hollow branches in a similar manner. I have not yet been able to ascertain what the animal is. Sunday January 13. We did not leave camp this morning until half past seven having paid for the purpose of getting the camel shoes on a matter in which we were eminently unsuccessful. We took our breakfast before starting for almost the first time since leaving the depot. Having crossed the creek our course was due north as before until about six miles we came in sight of the range ahead when we took a north half east direction for the purpose of clearing the eastern front of it. We found the ground more sandy than what we had before crossed and a great deal of even more richly grassed. Camp 93 is situated at the junction of three sandy creeks in which there is abundance of water. The sand is loose and the water permeates freely so that the latter may be obtained delightfully cool and clear by sinking anywhere in the beds of the creeks. Coopers Creek to Carpentaria Field Book No. 6 21 and a quarter degrees to 20 and a quarter degrees Stations 98 to 105 Upper part of Cloncurrie Footnote Called after Lord Cloncurrie's family who were related to Mr Burke Lady Cloncurrie, his cousin had always been particularly kind to him and in the paper written by him in his last moments he mentions her name End of Footnote Saturday January 19 Started from Camp 98 at half past five o'clock a.m. and passing to the northwest of Mount Forbes across the fine and well grass plain kept at first a north by east direction. At a distance of three miles the plain became everywhere stony being scattered over with quartz pebbles. And a little farther on we came to low quartz ranges the higher portions of which are covered with porcupine grass but the valleys are well closed with the majority of quartz and rank herbage. At about five miles we crossed a creek with a sandy bed which has been named Greens Creek. There were blacks not far above where we crossed but we did not disturb them. After crossing the creek we took a due north course over very rugged quartz ranges often or if there is character. Pieces of iron ore very rich were scattered in great numbers over some of the hills. On our being about to cross one of the branch creeks in the low range we surprised some blacks a man who with a young fellow apparently his son was upon a tree cutting out something and a lubra with a pick and inny. The two former did not see me until I was nearly close to them and then they were dreadfully frightened. Jumping down from the trees they started off shouting what sounded to us very like Joe Joe. Thus disturbed the lubra who was some distance from them just then caught sight of the camels and the remainder of the party as they came over the hill into the creek and this tended to hasten their flight over the stones and porcupine grass. Crossing the range at the head of this creek we came on a gully running north down which we proceeded and soon found an open hour into a creek at two or three points in which we found water. On this creek we found the first specimen of eucalyptus which has a very different appearance from the members of the gum tree race. It grows as high as a good sized gum tree but with the branches less spreading. In shape it much resembles the elm. The foliage is dark like that of the light wood. The trunk and branches are covered with a grey bark resembling in outward appearance that of the box tree. Finding that the creek was trending too much to the eastward we struck off to the north again and at a short distance we came on a fine creek running about south-southeast. As it was now about time to camp we travelled it up for about a mile and a half and came to a fine water hole in a rocky basin at which there were lots of birds. Cooper's Creek to Carpentaria Field Book No. 7 Latitude 20.25 to 19.25 Camps 105 to 112 Middle Part of Cloncurry Sunday January 27 Started from Camp 105 five minutes past two in the morning we followed along the bends of the creek by moonlight and found the creek wind about very much taking on the whole a northeast course. At about five miles it changed somewhat its features from a broad and sandy channel winding about through gum tree flats it assumes the unpretentious appearance of a straight narrow creek running in a north northeast direction between high perpendicular earthy banks. After running between three or four miles in this manner it took a turn to the west at which point there is a fine water hole and then assumed its original character. Below this we found water at several places but it all seemed to be either from surface drainage or from springs in the sand. The land in the vicinity of the creek appears to have received plenty of rain. The vegetation everywhere being green and fresh but there is no appearance of the creek having flowed in this part of the channel for a considerable period. Palm trees are numerous and some bear in abundance are small round dates, nuts just ripening. These palms give a most picturesque and pleasant appearance to the creek. Wednesday January 30 Started at half past seven a.m. after several unsuccessful attempts at getting Gola out of the bed of the creek. It was determined to try bringing him down until we could find a place for him to get out at. But after going in this way two or three miles it was found necessary to leave him behind as it was almost impossible to get him through some of the water holes and had separated King from the party which was a matter for very serious consideration when we found blacks hiding in the box trees close to us. Field book number eight Camps 112 to 119 Latitude 19 and a quarter degrees to 17 degrees 53 minutes Lower part of Cloncurry. Field book number nine Sunday February 1861 Finding the ground in such a state from the heavy force of rain that the camels could scarcely be got along it was decided to leave them a camp 119 and for Mr Burke and I to proceed towards the sea on foot. After breakfast we accordingly started taking with us the horse and three days provisions. Our first difficulty was in crossing Bellys Creek which we had to do where it enters the river a few hundred yards below the camp. In getting the horse in here he got bogged in a quick sand bank so deeply as to be unable to stir and we only succeeded in extricating him by undermining him on the creek side changing him into the water. Having got all the things in safety we continued down the river bank which bent about from east to west but kept a general north course. A great deal of the land was so soft and rotten that the horse with only a saddle and about twenty five pounds on his back could scarcely walk over it. At a distance of about five miles we again had him bogged in crossing a small creek after which he seemed so weak that we had great doubts about getting him on. We however found some better ground close to the water's edge where the sandstone rock runs out and we stuck to it as far as possible. Finding that the river was bending about so much that we were making very little progress in a northerly direction we struck off due north and soon came on some table land where the soil is shallow and gravelly and clothed with box and swamp gums. The beaches of the land were very boggy but the main portion was sound enough. Beyond this we came on an open plain covered with water up to one's ankles. The soil here was a stiff clay and the surface very uneven so that between the tufts of grass one was frequently knee-deep in water. The bottom however was sound and no fear of bogging. After floundering through this for several miles we came to a path formed by the blacks and distinct signs of a recent migration in a southerly direction. By making use of this path we got on much better for the ground was well trodden and hard. At rather more than a mile the path entered a forest through which flowed a nice water-course and we had not gone far before we found places where the blacks had been camping. The forest was intersected by little pebbly rices on which they had made their fires and in the sandy ground adjoining some of the former had been digging yams. Footnote the dyschorea of Carpenteria end of footnote which seemed to be so numerous that they could afford to leave lots of them about probably having only selected the very best. We were not so particular but many of those that they had rejected and found them very good. About half a mile farther we came close on a black fellow who was coiling by campfire whilst his gin and piccanini were yabbering alongside. We stopped for a short time to take out some of the pistols that were on the horse and that they might see us before we were so near as to frighten them. Just after we stopped the black got up to stretch his limbs and after a few seconds looked in our direction. It was very amusing to see the way in which he stared standing for some time as if he thought he must be dreaming and then having signalled to the others many haunches and shuffled off in the quietest manner possible. Near their fire was a fine hut the best I have ever seen built on the same principle as those at Cooper's Creek but much larger and more complete. I should say a dozen blacks might comfortably coil in it together. It is situated at the end of the forest towards the north and looks out on an extensive marsh which is at times flooded by the sea water. Hundreds of wild geese, plover and pelicans were enjoying themselves in the water courses on the marsh all the water on which was too brackish to be drinkable except some holes that are filled by the stream that flows through the forest. The neighbourhood of this encampment is one of the prettiest we have seen during the journey. Proceeding on our course across the marsh we came to a channel through which the sea water enters. Here we pass three blacks which are obviously their custom pointed out to us unasked the best part down. This assisted us greatly for the ground we were taking was very boggy. We moved slowly down about three miles and then camp for the night. The horse Billy being completely baited next morning we started at daybreak leaving the horse short hobbled. End of chapter 9 Chapter 10 of Robert O'Hara Burke the expedition of 1860 this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Magdalena Cork Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson Chapter 10 The object of the expedition accomplished Mrs Burke and Wills prepare to return to Coopers Creek particularly furnished by King diary of the return journey arrival at Coopers Creek The incidents related in the preceding field walk number 9 refer to a journey on foot undertaken on the 9th of February 1861 by Mrs Burke and Wills with a view of reaching or at least obtaining a sight of the open sea. In this however they were disappointed in consequence of the swampy nature of the ground near the part of the coast which rendered their progress extremely tedious and difficult. They proceeded however about 15 miles down the Vindus River keeping as near to its banks as possible when finding that the tide ebbed and flowed regularly and that the water was quite salt they determined on returning. They had successfully accomplished the great object of their mission by entirely crossing the Australian continent from south to north. The reduced state of their provisions rendered it absolutely necessary that they should return to Coopers Creek as soon as possible and on the 12th of February having rejoined King and Grey who had been left at Camp 119 in charge of the camels all prepared to commence their glad journey Homewood. They started on the 13th of February the weather was very wet for it had been raining continually and the camels were up to their knees in mud so that their stages for a considerable time did not exceed four or five miles a day. This circumstance no doubt interfered with the regularity of the entries in the diary. Before returning to the diary it may be well to furnish the following particulars given by the survivor King in his evidence before the Royal Commission. Immediately after starting the allowance of provisions became considerably reduced and the party were obliged to rely very much on the Portulac. They had at first five camels and a footnote the camel Gola had been left behind on 30th of January and the horse Billy but were in the course of their journey obliged to kill three camels as well as the horse for the animals became knocked up and the flesh helped to save the party from starvation. Two walked and two rode so as to spare the camels as much as possible. Grey first began to complain and gradually grew worse King was then attacked by some back which he attributed to the fatigue of walking and the short allowance of provisions for they were at last reduced to a quarter of a pound of flour each daily a little dried camel meat and such allowance of Portulac as they could gather. King however recovered himself a good deal Mr Burke was ill for a little time from having eaten part of a large snake which they had killed but he got better Mr Will suffered the least about four days before the party reached the depot at Coopers Creek he had complained of suffering from dysentery although a usual well known symptom of that disease did not appear and this circumstance joined to his accounts of himself as compared with what was felt by the others led them to believe that he was shaming it was also discovered that he was in the habit of secretly consuming more than his fair share of rations when the sufferings of the whole party from famine were very great and for his offence King states that Mr Burke gave him six or seven slaps on the year but the party were all on good terms even after this circumstance and when Grace Illness became matter of certainty his companions were as kind to him as poor fellows it was in their power to be they buried him as decently as they could and it must affect the stoutest heart to know that the survivors were also extremely weak that it was as much as they could do to dig his grave indeed, they were obliged to hold a whole day for that purpose when it is added as will appear hereafter that the delay of this very day caused additional suffering to the party and resulted in the loss of the lives of both Mr Burke and Will's language becomes too feeble to describe the painful sensations to which the mournful reminiscence gives rise Journal of the Return from Carpentaria Coopers Creek Transcribed by Mr James Smith Between four and five o'clock a heavy thunderstorm broke over us having given very little warning of its approach there had been lightning and thunder towards the southeast and south ever since noon yesterday the rain was incessant and very heavy for an hour and a half which made the ground so boggy that the animals could scarcely walk over it we nevertheless started at ten minutes to seven a.m. and after floundering along for half an hour halted for breakfast we then moved on again but soon found that the travelling was too heavy for the camels so camped for the remainder of the day in the afternoon the sky cleared a little and the sun soon dried the ground considering shot a pheasant and much disappointed at finding him all feathers and claws this bird nearly resembled a cock pheasant in plumage but in other respects it bears more the character of the magpie or crow the feathers are remarkably wiry and coarse Friday, February 22, 1861 Camp Seven R People thunderstorm in the evening about 8 p.m. east south east moving gradually round to south the flashes of lightning were so vivid and incessant as to keep up a continual light for short intervals overpowering even the moonlight heavy rain and strong squalls continued for more than an hour when the storm moved off west northwest the sky remained more or less overcast for the rest of the night and the following morning was both sultry and oppressive with the ground so boggy as to be almost impassable Saturday, February 23, 1861 Camp Eight R In spite of the difficulties thrown in our way by last night's storm we crossed the creek we were shortly afterwards compelled to halt for the day on a small patch of comparatively dry ground near the river the day turned out very fine so that the soil dried rapidly and we started in the evening to try a trip by moonlight we were very fortunate in finding some ground along a bellowbong which permitted off our travelling for about five miles up the creek when we camped for the night the evening was most depressively hot and sultry so much so that the slightest exertion made one feel as if we were in a state of suffocation the dampness of the atmosphere prevented any evaporation and gave one a helpless feeling of lassitude that I have never before experienced to such an extent all the party complained of the same emotions and the horses showed distinctly the effect of the evening trip short as it was we had scarcely turned in half an hour when it began to rain some heavy clouds having come up from the eastwood in place of the layer of small cerocumuli that before ornamented the greater portion of the sky these clouds soon moved on and we were relieved from the dread of additional mud after the sky cleared the atmosphere became rather cooler and less sultry the assistance of a little smoke to keep the mosquitoes off we managed to pass a tolerable night Sunday February 24 1861 Camp 9 R comparatively little rain has fallen above the branch creek with the running water the vegetation although tolerably fresh is not so rank as that we have left the water in the creek is muddy but good and has been derived merely from the surface drainage of the surrounding plains the Malalinias continues in this branch creek which creeps along the foot of the rangers Monday February 25 1861 Camp 10 R there has been very little rain on this portion of the creek since we passed down there was however no water at all then at this point at the tea tree spring a short distance up the creek we found plenty of water in the sand but it had a disagreeable taste the composition of leaves and the presence of mineral matter probably iron there seems to have been a fair share of rain along here everything is so very fresh and green and there is water in many of the channels we have crossed Tuesday February 26 1861 Capell tree camp 11 R Thursday February 28 1861 Reedy gully camp 12 R came into the Reedy gully camp about midnight on Tuesday the 26 remained there throughout the day on Wednesday starting at 2 a.m. on Thursday Friday March 1 1861 Camp of the three crows 13 R Saturday March 2 1861 salt bush camp 14 R Bungola he looks thin and miscible seems to have fred at a great deal probably at finding himself left behind and he has been walking up and down the tracks till he has made a regular pathway could find no sign of his having been far off although there is splendid feed to which he could have gone he began to eat as soon as he saw the other camels Sunday March 3 1861 Eureka camp 15 R in crossing a creek by moonlight Charlie rode over a large snake he did not touch him and we thought it was a log until he struck it with a stirrup iron we then saw that it was an immense snake larger than any that I have ever before seen in a wild state it measured eight feet four inches in length and seven inches in girth round the belly it was nearly the same thickness from the head to within twenty inches of the tail it then tapered rapidly the weight was eleven and a half pounds from the tip of the nose to five inches back the neck was black both above and behind throughout the rest of the body the under part was yellow and the sides and back had irregular brown transverse bars on a yellowish brown ground I could detect no poisonous spanks but there were two distinct rows of teeth in each jaw and two small claws or nails about three eighths of an inch long one on each side of the vent Monday March 4 1861 Feasting Camp 16 R Shortly after arriving at Camp 16 we could frequently hear distant thunder toward the east from which quarter the wind was blowing during the afternoon there were frequent heavy showers and towards evening it sat in to rain steadily but lightly this lasted until about eight p.m. when the rain seized and the wind got round to west the sky however remained overcast until late in the night and then cleared for a short time the clouds were soon succeeded by dense fog or mist which continued until morning the vapor having then risen occupied the upper air in the form of light cirrostratus and cumuli clouds Tuesday March 5 1861 Camp 17 R Started at 2 a.m. on a south south west course but had soon to turn in on the creek as Mr Burke felt very unwell having been attacked by dysentery since eating the snake he now felt giddy and unable to keep his seat at 6 a.m. Mr Burke feeling better we started again following along the creek in which there was considerably more water than when we passed down we camped at 2 15 p.m. at a part of the creek where the date trees were very numerous footnote probably liverstoras and a footnote and found the fruit nearly ripe and very much improved on what it was when we were here before Wednesday March 6 1861 Camp 18 R arrived at the former camp and find the feed richer than ever and the ants just as troublesome Mr Burke is a little better and Charlie looks comparatively well the dryness of the atmosphere seems to have a beneficial effect on all we found yesterday that it was a hopeless matter about gola and we were obliged to leave him behind as he seemed to be completely done up and could not come on even when the pack and saddle were taken off Thursday March 7 1861 big tree camp 19 R palm tree camp number 104 and 20 degrees latitude by observation coming down 20 degrees 21.40 minutes there is less water here than there was when we passed down although there is evidence of the creek being visited by considerable floods during the interval but it is abundant and the vegetation more fresh than before Mr Burke almost recovered but Charlie is again very unwell and unfit to do anything he caught cold last night through carelessness in covering himself Friday March 8 1861 Camp 20 R follow the creek more closely coming up than going down found more water in it generally Saturday March 9 1861 Camp 21 R reached our former camp at 1.30pm found the herbage much dried up but still plenty of feed for the camels Sunday March 10 1861 Camp 22 R camped at the junction of a small creek from the westward a short distance below our former camp there being plenty of good water here whereas the supply of specimen camp is very doubtful Monday March 11 1861 Camp 23 R halted for breakfast at the specimen camp at 7.15am found more water and feed there than before then proceeded up the creek and got safely over the most dangerous part of our journey camp near the head of the gap in a flat about 2 miles below our former camp at the gap Tuesday March 12 1861 Camp 20 R Wednesday March 13 1861 Camp 25 R Rain all day so heavily that I was obliged to put my watch and field book in the pack to keep them dry in the afternoon the rain increased and all the creeks became flooded we took shelter under some fallen rocks near which were some feed for the camels but the latter was of no value for we soon had to remove them up among the creek we took shelter under some fallen rocks for we soon had to remove them up amongst the rocks out of the way of the flood which fortunately did not rise high enough to drive us out of the cave but we were obliged to shift our packs to the upper part in the evening the water fell as rapidly as it had risen leaving everything in a very boggy state there were frequent light showers during the night Thursday March 14 1861 Camp 26 R Sandstone Cave The water in the creek haven't fallen sufficiently low we crossed over from the cave and proceeded down the creek our progress was slow as it was necessary to keep on the stony ridge instead of following the flats the latter being very boggy after the rain thinking that the creek must join scratchlies near our old camp we followed it a long way until finding it trend all together too much eastward we tried to shape a cross for the other creek to do so from the boggy nature of the intervening plain Friday March 15 1861 Camp 27 R Saturday March 16 1861 Camp 28 R Scratch List Creek Sunday March 17 1861 Camp 29 R Monday March 18 1861 Camp 30 R Tuesday March 19 1861 Camp 31 R Wednesday March 20 1861 Camp 32 R Beasting Camp Last evening the sky was clouded about 9pm and a shower came down from the north at 10 o'clock it became so dark that we camped on the bank of the creek and we had to wait for the sun to come out of the creek and we had to wait for the sun to come out of the creek and it became so dark that we camped on the bank of the creek in which was a nice current of clear water today we halted intending to try a night journey the packs we overhauled and left nearly 60lbs weight of things behind they were all suspended in a pack from the branches of a shrub close to the creek we started at a quarter to six but were continually pulled up by billa bongs and branch creeks and soon had to camp for the night at the junction of the two creeks which are the three cones which are three remarkable small hills to the eastward Thursday, March 21, 1861 Humoured Camp 33R unable to proceed on account of the slippery and boggy state of the ground the rain has fallen very heavily here today and every little depression in the ground is either full of water or covered with slimy mud another heavy storm passed over during the night almost extinguishing the miserable fire we were able to get up with our very limited quantity of water logged in greenwood having been so unfortunate last night we took an early breakfast this morning at camp 33 which I have named the Humoured Camp from the state of dampness in which we found everything there and crossing to the east bank of the main creek proceeded in a southerly direction nearly parallel with the creek some of the flats near the creek contain the rich as a louvial soil and a clothe with luxuriant vegetation there is an immense extent of playing back of the finest character for pastoral purposes and the country bears every appearance of being permanently well watered we halted on a large billabong at noon and were favoured during dinner by a thunderstorm the heavier portion of which missed us some passing north and some south which was fortunate as it would otherwise have spoiled our baking process a matter of some importance just now we started again at 7 o'clock but the effects of the heavy rain prevented our making a good journey Friday, March 22, 1861 Muddy Camp, 34R had an early breakfast this morning and started before sunrise found that the wet swampy ground had checked our progress last night was only a narrow strip and that had we gone a little farther we might have made a fine journey the country consisted of open well grass pebbly plains intersected by numerous small channels all containing water abundance of fine rich portulaca was just bursting into flower along all these channels as well as on the greater portion of the plain the creek that we camped on last night ran nearly parallel with us throughout this stage we should have crossed it to avoid the stony plains but were prevented by the flood from so doing Saturday, March 23, 1861 Musquito Camp, 35R started at a quarter to six and followed down the creek which has much of the characteristic appearance of the river Burke where we crossed it on our up journey the land in the vicinity greatly improves as one goes down becoming less stony and better grassed at 11 o'clock we crossed a small tributary from the eastwood and there was a distant range of considerable extent visible in that direction on an afternoon in a bend where there was tolerable feed for the banks are everywhere more or less scrubby Sunday, March 24, 1861 Three Hour Camp, 36R Monday, March 25, 1861 Native Dog Camp, 37R started at half past five looking for a good place to halt for the day this we found at a short distance down the creek we discovered that it was close to Camp 89 of our up journey had not expected that we were so much to the westwood after breakfast took some time altitudes and was about to go back to last camp for some things that had been left when I found gray behind a tree eating skilly golly he explained that he was suffering from dysentery and had taken the flower without leave sent him to report himself to Mr Burke and went on King to tell Mr Burke for him was called up and received a good thrashing there is no knowing to what extent he has been robbing us many things have been found to run unaccountably short started at seven o'clock the camels in first rate spirits we followed our old course back south the first portion of the plains had much the same appearance as when we came up but that near Camp 88 which then looked so fresh and green very much dried up and we saw no signs of water anywhere in fact there seems to have been little or no rain about here since we passed soon after three o'clock we struck the first of several small creeks or billabongs which must be portions of the creek with the deep channel that we crossed on going up we being now rather to the westwood of our former course from here after traversing about two miles off the bearish clay plain we reached a small watercourse most of the holes in which contained some water of a milky or creamy description by insult bush and porch like being abundant in the vicinity we camped here at 4.30 a.m. when we started in the evening a strong breeze had already sprung up in the south which conveyed much of the characteristic feeling of a hot wind it increased gradually to a force of five and six but by eleven o'clock had become decidedly cool and was so chilly towards morning that we found it necessary to throw on our ponchos a few serocumulus clouds were coming up from the east when we started but we left them behind and nothing was visible during the night but a thin hazy veil the gale continued throughout the 26 becoming warmer as the day advanced in the afternoon it blew furiously raising a good deal of dust the temperature of air at 4.00 p.m. was 94 degrees in the shade wind trees all day Tuesday, March 26, 1861 Salt Bush Camp, 38R Wednesday, March 27, 1861 Camp, 39R Thursday, March 28, 1861 Camp, 40R Friday, March 29, 1861 Camp, 41R Camels last feast fine green feed at this camp plenty of vine and young polygonums on the small billabongs Saturday, March 30, 1861 Camp, 42R Butchers rest employed all day in cutting up jerking and eating butcher the day turned out as favourable for us as we could have wished and a considerable portion of the meat was completely jerked before sunset Sunday, March 31, 1861 Camp, 43R Mia Mia Camp Plenty of good dry feed various shrubs salt bushes including cotton bush and some coarse kangaroo grass water in the hollows on the stony pavement the neighbouring country chiefly composed of stony risers and sand ridges Monday, April 1, 1861 Camp, 64R Tuesday, April 2, 1861 Camp, 44R Thermometer broken Wednesday, April 3, 1861 Camp, 45R Salt meat camp Thursday, April 4, 1861 Camp, 46R The plant camp Friday, April 5, 1861 Camp, 47R Oil camp Earthy and clayy plains generally sound and terribly grunt but in other places bare salt bush withered Saturday, April 6, 1861 Wild duck camp 48R Earthy flats cut into innumerable water courses succeeded by fine open plains generally very bare but having in some places patches of fine salt bush The dead stalks of portulac and mellow show that those plants are very plentiful in some seasons Towards noon came on earthy plains and numerous billabongs Sunday, April 7, 1861 Camp, 49R Find the water and feed much dried up Nearly all the water we have met with has a slightly brackish taste of a peculiar kind somewhat resembling in flavour potassium tartrate of soda Monday, April 8, 1861 Camp, 50R Camp to short distance above Camp, 75 The creek here contains more water and there is a considerable quantity of green grass in its bed but it is much dried up since we passed before Holted 15 minutes to send back for Grey who gammoned he could not walk Some good showers must have fallen lately as we have passed surface water on the plains every day In the latter portion of today's journey the young grass and portulac are springing freshly in the flats and ridges Tuesday, April 9, 1861 Camp, 51R Camped on the bank of the creek where there is a regular field of salt bush as well as some grass in its bed very acceptable to the horse who has not had a proper feed for the last week until last night and is consequently nearly knocked up Wednesday, April 10, 1861 Camp, 52R Remained at Camp, 52R all day to cut up and jerk the meat of the horse Billy who was so reduced and knocked up for want of food that there appeared little chance of his reaching the other side of the desert and as we were running short of food of every description ourselves we thought it best to secure his flesh at once We found it healthy and tender but without the slightest trace of fat in any portion of the body Thursday, April 11, 1861 Plenty of water and creek down to this point Friday, April 12, 1861 Extensive earthy plains intersected by numerous watercourses Saturday, April 13, 1861 Small watercourses lined with lakes Plenty of salt bush and chrysanthemums on either side Camp on Stony Desert Note by transcriber Up to this point as it appears from Mr. Will's fieldbook the expedition never passed a day in which they did not traverse the banks off or cross a creek or other watercours End of note Sunday, April 14, 1861 Monday, April 15, 1861 It commenced to rain lightly at 5am this morning and continued raining pretty steadily throughout the day owing to the wet and the exertion of crossing the numerous sand ridges Linda became knocked up about 4 o'clock and we had to halt at a clay pan amongst the sandhills In Brackett, the party seems to have crossed a creek near a native camp about 10am End of Brackett Tuesday, April 16, 1861 Wednesday, April 17, 1861 This morning about sunrise Gray died. He had not spoken a word distinctly since his first attack which was just as we were about to start Thursday, April 18, 1861 In Brackett, another creek a native camp were passed End of Brackett Friday, April 19, 1861 Camped again without water on the sandy bed of the creek having been followed by a lot of natives who were desirous of our company As we preferred camping alone we were compelled to move on until rather late in order to get away from them The night was very cold A strong breeze was blowing from the south which made the fire so regular that as on the two previous nights it was impossible to keep up a fair temperature Our general course throughout the day had been south-southeast Saturday, April 20, 1861 No entry appears under this date The ferry traveller strained every nerve to reach their goal and it may readily be imagined with what excited feelings they looked forward to the welcome hour which was to restore them happy and exalting to their home and friends once more We learned from King that they had no provisions except the dried horse flesh for 15 days previously and on this day they were allowed to eat as much as they chose not having the remotest shadow of a doubt to bring them to a full supply of food and clothing and to a happy meeting with the companions they had left behind On the 21st they pushed on 30 miles Mr Burke rode one of the camels Mr Wills and King the other The poor animals, doubtless, did their best imagining that they too were approaching a land of plenty Mr Burke was a little in advance and it is touching now to read how he often said I think I see the tents ahead how he called out the names of his men several times fondly expecting to hear their voices in reply but not receiving any answer supposed that they must have merely shifted to some other part of the creek alas, on arriving in the evening at the depot to their consternation they found it deserted On the morning of that very day the hearts of the men left at Curpus Creek had yielded to fears for their own safety and they were gone End of Chapter 10 Chapter 11 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Magdalena Cook Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson Chapter 11 Disappointment and depression of the party on finding the depot deserted Brass Journal of His Day at Curpus Creek It is not easy to imagine what must have been the feelings of the explorers Here they were just returned from an enterprise of unexampled difficulty and danger which they had brought to a successful termination at the expense of an unheard of amount of privation and suffering Only to find themselves deserted in their greatest need of companions on whom they had implicitly relied for secure Such sudden depression of spirits reacting on a state of high hope and exaltation must have had a withering effect on frames already exhausted by famine and travel worn to the last degree of human endurance Their condition may be better imagined than described The sufferers themselves say comparatively little on the subject but we learn from King that Mr Burke was too much excited to do anything and well indeed he might be After looking round in a state of bewildered astonishment at the Forsaken camp and noticing that some articles were scattered about which would certainly have been taken away if a mere change of station near the spot had been intended Mr Wills noticed that a tree had been marked with the words dig 21st April 1861 and at once exclaimed they have left here today He immediately set to work with King to open the ground beneath and found in a box a few inches below the surface a supplier of provisions which had been left for them by Bra and a bottle containing a note which was speedily handed up to and read aloud by Mr Burke It ran as follows depot Coopers Creek April 21 1861 The depot party of VEE leaves this camp today to return to the Darling I intend to go south-east from Camp 60 to get into our old track near Baloo Two of my companions and myself are quite well. The third pattern has been unable to walk for the last 18 days as his leg has been severely hurt when thrown by one of the horses. No persons has been up here from the Darling We have six camels and twelve horses in good working condition William Bra Now it must be observed that this note did not contain an accurate description of the real state of the depot party. None of them were quite well. Neither were the camels and horses in such good working condition as was represented. Had the explorers known this they would in all probability have decided on following Bra as soon as they could. And if they had done so they would doubtless have been saved. But who could cherish the faintest hope of overtaking a party able to push on with all the vigor of health and strength at the rate of twenty or thirty miles a day under circumstances like these. The camels were completely done up for they had been pressed to the utmost that day and were not able to travel another mile. The explorers themselves were utterly exhausted. King touchingly says it was as much as one of them could do to crawl to the side of the creek for a billiard water. They therefore determined as any man would have done under the circumstances to refresh themselves for a day or two with the provisions that had been left and then endeavour to reach the nearest settlement in the best manner they could. The following entry by Mr. Wills under date Sunday 21st of April 1861 is taken from the diary. Arrived at the depot this evening just in time to find it deserted. A note left in the plant by Bra communicates pleasing information that they have started today for the Darling. Their camels and horses all well and in good condition. We and our camels being just done up and scarcely able to reach the depot have very little chance of overtaking them. Bra has fortunately left us ample provisions to take us to the bounds of civilisation. Namely flour fifty pounds, rice twenty pounds, oatmeal sixty pounds, sugar sixty pounds and dried meat fifteen pounds. These provisions together with a few horseshoes and nails and some odds and ends constitute all the articles left and places in a very awkward position in respect to clothing. Our disappointment at finding the depot deserted may easily be imagined. Returning in an exhausted state after four months of the severest travelling and privation, our legs almost paralysed so that each of us found a most trying task only to walk a few yards. Such a leg bound feeling I never before experienced and I hope never shall again. The exertion required to get up a slight piece of rice and ground, even without any load, induces an indescribable sensation of pain and helplessness, and the general lassitude makes one unfit for anything. Poor Gray must have suffered very much many times when we thought him it is most fortunate for us that these symptoms, which so early affected him, did not come on us until we were reduced to an exclusively animal diet of such an inferior description, as that offered by the flesh of a worn-out and exhausted horse. We were not long in getting out the grub that Bra had left, and we made a good supper of some oatmeal porridge and sugar. These, together with the excitement of finding ourselves in such a peculiar and almost unexpected position, had a wonderful effect in removing the stiffness from our legs. Whether it is possible that the vegetables can so have affected us, I know not, but both Mr Burke and I remarked a most decided relief and strength in the legs greater than we have had for several days. I am inclined to think that but for the abundance of Portulac that we obtain on the journey we should scarcely have returned to Cooper's Creek at all. As for Bra nothing that can be said here can add to the bitterness of his reflection. That if he had stood steadfast for only one day more he would have saved his leader. Seven hours more and he would have had the unspeakable pleasure, the enduring honour of rescuing from suffering and death and restoring triumphant to their country, the brave men who had trusted him. But he was wanting in fortitude. He failed in the determination to affirm in the exercise of his duty in the face of all discouragement. Had he possessed but a tithe of the endurance and devotion of his chief pressed though he was by the entreaties of a sick comrade who would have stood his ground, the beasts he had would have supplied his party with food for many a day. Indeed they were even then far from being at the end of their stock of provisions. However it fell out otherwise. The man-pattern who had been complaining for some time had begged hard as for his life to be taken back to Menindee, and Bra, who as well as the other European, McDonough, seems to have entertained an idea that Mr Burke might not come back that way, at last yielded. The following journal drawn up by himself before the sad results of his conduct became fully known, will show all that Bra felt able to say in his own defence at the time it was written. To the Honourable Secretary Exploration Committee, Melbourne June 30, 1861 Sir, I have the honour to report to you for the information of the committee that on the 16th of December last Mr Burke gave me charge of the depot formed by him at Coopers Creek and started for Ayers Creek en route for the Gulf of Carpentaria at 6.40am on the same day. His party consisted of himself, Mr Wills, King and Gray. He took with him six camels and one horse. The party was provided with provisions for 12 weeks. I accompanied the party for a distance of 22 miles along the water course of the creek. The party remaining at the depot consisted of myself, Patton, McDonough, and Doss Mohamed. My instructions received by word of mouth were to remain at the depot for 30 months or longer if provisions and other circumstances would permit. I left the party at 4pm on the same day and returned to the depot. On the following day, the 17th December we commenced cutting timber for the purpose of erecting a stockade. December 22 Natives about 25 in number approached the camp but I considered it advisable not to allow them near the tents. December 30 On several days during the week were annoyed by a number of natives. On Wednesday they succeeded to steal six camel pack bags which we had washed that morning and spread out on the turf on the water's edge to dry. The thief, by keeping under shelter of the high bank, escaped unobserved. Noticing the loss only late in the afternoon, I did not think it advisable to go in pursuit. During the night of Thursday I observed two blacks within 100 yards of the camp but on my shouting to them they ran off. On the 23rd finished the stockade 20 feet by 18 feet and put up Mr Burke's tent within it. In this tent I kept the ammunition and firearms. From within the stockade we had the other tents and the camels which were kept tied up at night under cover of our guns. December 31 Observe some blacks stealing stealthily along the banks of the creek towards the camp while one of them directed them from behind a big tree. I allowed them to come within 20 paces of the camp when suddenly I called out to them. We, at the same time firing off our guns over their heads. They seemed much frightened and hardly able to run away. Great numbers of blacks camp near us. December 6, 1861 A large number of natives came to the camp whose demeanour roused my suspicions. Got hold of a young native and shoved him off when he fell down. In the afternoon the whole tribe returned. The men armed some with spears and some with boomerangs. Most of them had painted their faces and bodies. I met them at a short distance from the camp and marking a circle round it. I gave them to understand that they entered it. On some of them crossing the line I fired off my gun into the branches of a tree when they retired and did not molest us any more. December 24 I should like to explore the neighbourhood a little but cannot safely leave the camp for longer than three or four hours. One of the men looking after the camels the greater part of the day while the other is away four to five hours daily to prevent the horses from straying. I should have mentioned that I had charge of six camels and twelve horses. Two of the camels very scabby. Grass is getting very dry and scarce near the camp. We are obliged to hang all our stores on boughs of trees to protect them from the rats of which we killed about forty every night for some time. February 26 I rode up a conical hill bearing north-west by north from the depot. It is distant about nine miles and one of a chain of hills running north-east and south-west. From the top of this hill I saw another range distant about fifteen or twenty miles much broken and considerably higher than the one I was on. The country between the two is stony like that between the first range and the depot. March 1 Natives less numerous looking out anxiously for Mr Burke's return. One day I took a ride up the creek which joins Coopers Creek opposite our camp coming from east south east following it up about six miles and found bed and banks thickly timbered with mile. The country in that direction is very stony. From the top of a stony rise I saw a low range running east and west distant about fifteen miles. Blacks passing now and then offering us nets and fish. We made it a rule never to accept the least thing from them but made some of them little presence as left off clothes. March 15 about twenty-five natives with their families passed here last night on their way up the creek offering nets and fish. They gave me to understand that there would be plenty of water in the creek shortly and that we might swim on the flat the stockade was on. April 1 During the first twenty-four days of March the heat has been greater than might be expected for the season and especially the nights were intolerably sultry a great deal more so than the warmest of January. On the twenty-fourth there was a sudden change. It began to blow hard the nights became very cool. On the evening of the twenty-ninth we observed lightning in all quarters and heard thunder in the north. A slight shower of rain fell between eight and nine o'clock p.m. and another on the following morning. Not sufficient however to lay the dust. The Black Stoller Camel Pack saddle from us on the twenty-seventh while I was away from the camp. They carried it about a mile down the creek where Patton overtook them and recovered the saddle but it was torn to pieces. April 1 Patton commenced shooing the horses lest he might become incapacitated by disease as he felt very unwell. April 4 Patton, after shooing two horses, was obliged to take to his bed suffering acute pain and was not afterwards able to move about. April 15 Patton is getting worse. I and McDonough begin to feel alarming symptoms of the same disease. April 18 There is no probability of Mr Burke returning this way. Patton is in a deplorable state and desirous of being removed to the Darling to obtain medical assistance. And our provisions will soon be reduced to a quantity insufficient to take us back to the Darling if the trip should turn out difficult and tedious. Being also sure that I and McDonough would not much longer escape scurvy, I, after most seriously considering all circumstances, made up my mind to start for the Darling on Sunday next the twenty-first. The horses have lately got into the habit of straying, missed five of them a few days ago, and found them about fifteen miles from the camp. Last Monday we had a welcome rain for the first time since the eighth of December, except some slight showers on the 24th and 25th March. The last three days have been fine and cool, but now it again looks like rain, although the barometer is very high, higher indeed than it has been during our stay here. April 21 left the depot at ten o'clock a.m., leaving fifty pounds of flour, fifty pounds of oatmeal, fifty pounds of sugar, and thirty pounds of rice buried near the stockade at the foot of a large tree, and marked the word dig on the tree. I took a hundred and fifty pounds of flour, seventy-five pounds of sugar, about seventy pounds of oatmeal, one bag of rice, four pounds of tea, and a small quantity of biscuits. Taking into consideration that we had to travel slowly on account of Patton, and on account of the scarcity of water which I calculated to have to contend with and would probably be on the road to the Darling at least six or seven weeks, I considered that I could not take less provisions. Patton was placed on a quiet camel. We travelled very slowly and halted at five o'clock p.m., having made about fourteen miles. There can be no doubt that Bra afterwards, when too late, was only sorry for what he had done, and said that had he known the party would have returned the night they did, he would have remained there certainly. Footnote. Royal Commission Question one thousand seven hundred and thirty-two. End of footnote. Of course he would, and it would be hard upon him not to take into consideration the trying circumstances of the case in which he stood. Paras by the earnest pleadings of the dying man, he had no doubt intended to act for the best. And if he failed in firmness of character at this trying moment it would be unfair towards him not to admit that a like misfortune might in a like case have befallen a much better man. End of chapter eleven.