 I'd like to welcome you to the Wednesday weekly webinar. This is the eighth of ten webinars and just so you know, we archive all of the webinars so if you miss one, you will be able to watch it later. And usually these are posted within a few days of the event. So all the preceding ones have been posted. The speaker will be Caitlin Krueger and I'll give you a little bit more information about her shortly. Next week's speaker will be Clifford Hall. He's a professor in plant sciences and he's going to talk about how to can low and high acid foods. And our last speaker of the season will be Todd Wyman, who's a horticulture agent for the NDSU Extension Service in Cass County. And he will be talking about introducing youth to gardening. So everyone will be in listening mode, but you can certainly type your questions in the chat pod. And I think I'll give us some practice by asking all of you what county are you in right now? County and state. Well, let's see where you are. All right. We're around the state here. So anyway, that is where we will be taking your questions. At the end of the webinar, our Caitlin has indicated to me that she's willing to take questions along the way as well. So use your third eye to keep an eye on the chat pod, Caitlin. At the end of the webinar, we'll have plenty of time for questions. And we also have a short survey at the end of the webinar that will be emailed out to you. And your responses are really important. I'm in the process of applying for more grand funding and it's always great to provide some feedback to the funder. So that is how we use that information to see what you want in the future and to find out how we did along the way. So watch for that. It'll only take you a couple minutes to finish that survey. So as I said, today's speaker is Caitlin Kruger. And it may have said Esther McGinnis, but this is Esther McGinnis' student. Caitlin is being advised by both Esther McGinnis, our horticulture specialist, and also Jan Knodl, who's an entomology specialist. Caitlin is a PhD student in the NDSU Entomology Department, and she is currently researching spotted wing drosophila. Caitlin earned her undergraduate degree in biology from South Dakota State University and her master's in entomology from the University of Minnesota. So we thank you for being here today, Caitlin, and telling us about spotted wing drosophila invasion and management. Thanks, Julie. Hey, I'm glad to be here. This is my very first webinar, so bear with me just in case I do things wrong. But I'm very excited to be here today to talk about an insect near and dear to my heart, the spotted wing drosophila, which all of you who happen to encounter or raise fruit are probably going to run across if you haven't already. Just to give you a little background on this insect, just in case you haven't seen the guides before, this is a small little yellow and brown fruit fly. It's got these gorgeous kind of jewel red eyes, and it gets its name from these big black spots, one spot on each wing on the males. And as you can see in the upper right-hand corner, it's pretty well visible. The females don't have this spot that they have what I like to call a chainsaw on their back end. And it's their ovipositor, as you can see on the lower right-hand picture. It's very serrated, toothy blades help it cut into fruit and lay eggs. And this is where it becomes a major problem for you and me. The females are also usually a little bit lighter than the males, but not always. And it depends on the morph, so I'll talk about that a little bit later on. As far as fruit crop damage goes, this is something that you see quite a bit as you're growing fruit anywhere in the United States these days. The females will come across a piece of fruit, they'll pierce it with their back end and lay an egg. They typically lay one to three eggs per fruit, but they're not territorial, so multiple females can lay in the same piece of fruit, and you can get population jumps very quickly. Unfortunately, what happens is these eggs are going to hatch out into larva, they're going to tunnel into the fruit, and you'll often see an exterior collapse of the fruit structure. As you can see in the bottom images on the left-hand side is Juneberry, the right-hand side is sour cherry. And on top of that, if it wasn't bad enough that they were eating your fruit out, the damage that the egg laying process and the tunneling process due to the fruit often leads to sour rot and other diseases. These flies also live in symbiosis with a mutualistic yeast, so as they're laying these eggs as they're piercing this fruit, you may also see various yeast-related diseases coming through. So just to give you a little background, this is a very new insect pest. It's originally from Southeast Asia. They think Japan, but we really don't have records going far enough back to confirm that. In the last couple of decades, it spread basically to production regions worldwide. It was first found in the United States and Hawaii in the 1980s. It really hasn't become an issue over there. We don't know why. However, it made a landfall in the continental U.S. in 2008 in California. And by 2012, it had made its way all the way over to Florida. So this has been spreading very quickly. It's made it as far north as southern Canada. It's found in various portions of South America, and it's in Europe too. So it really has gotten around very, very quickly and very rapidly become a problem. Just to give you an idea, it was first detected in North America in Strawberry and Caneberry, which is the Raspberry Blackberry. But as I'll talk about later on, it's not very picky. We don't know for sure how big of an issue this is going to be, but a publication from this year has actually been taking data and plugging it into a mapping system to try and guess how widespread this is going to be. So just to give you an idea, every colored region is a region where SWD may eventually make its home. The reason that the Midwest on this map is largely blank, and my opinion inaccurately blank, is that the original data that they input into this mapping system didn't include any of the recent data from captures in the Midwest. So I think you can just kind of comfortably fill in a lot of that with green, and that may be true for other portions of the planet here, but if it's fruit and it's not frozen, I would say there's a good chance you're going to see SWD there at one point or another. As far as the invasion in North Dakota, this has been very recent. It was first detected in 2013 in Foster County, and it was found on a sample of sour cherry. To date, it's been confirmed in 15 different counties. However, I suspect it's in most, if not all, portions of the state. We've got no formal trapping or detection system. All of our data is coming in from homeowners and fruit growers who are sending us in samples of infested fruit, and as there's no way to actually positively identify SWD in its juvenile forms, that egg larval pupil stage, you actually have to rear it out to adult, which is what our diagnostic lab has been doing, and then making the final call from there. So no widespread trapping, no widespread confirmation. We don't have any grant in place or person in place to do that, but I suspect it's probably everywhere. Just to give you a map of which counties for sure we know where they're at. Stard County, looks like my star got bumped over a little bit. Stard County should be Foster where our original landfall was recorded, and of course all of the dark blue counties are where it has been officially confirmed. Light blue counties are suspected, but we don't actually have the final say from rearing out samples to be sure. So we're dealing with a pest that's very hard to control, and it's very hard to control for several reasons. One of the primary reasons is that it's got an exceptionally wide host range. There's actually some researchers right now who are dedicated to nothing more than walking the woods and walking through various communities and recording what plants are finding these insects using. I think at last count from a meeting I was at last December, there were over 64 known hosts in the US. The ones you're most likely to run across, I've kind of thrown up on the board, especially fruit crops that are typically grown in North Dakota, often in association with either hobbyists or our growing winemaking industry. So definitely sour cherry, grape, raspberry, strawberry, and the Saskatoon berry. I've also heard reports for sure on plum. I've seen them on Aronia and Elderberry. I've seen a lot of reports that they're using buckthorn and dogwood. Basically, the list is much shorter to list what they won't use, which is usually very thick skin fruits like citrus. However, the exception is if those fruits are broken open and easily accessible, they'll still make use of it. So they're very not picky as far as insects go. However, there is kind of a preference list as to what they like to use first. If they have no choices and it's use something or die, they'll use it. But preference list on the right-hand side, they really, really, really love cane berries, raspberries at the top of their list. So I haven't helped you. If you have raspberries, I almost guarantee you're going to have SWD at some portion in your season. Strawberry, blackberry, and cherry are all up there. They will use blueberry even though we don't happen to grow it in any quantity in the state. And kind of lowest on their totem pole is grape, and wine grape is really on the lowest pole of the grape totem pole. Fortunately, they'll still use it. And we've got recorded evidence of them using wine grapes as far north as southern Canada. So there's really no escape, but there are some preference exceptions. So we think these flies are going through a specific yearly cycle here in North Dakota. And part of my research is to try and get an idea for sure if this is what they're doing or not. As far as we know, they're not typically overwintering, but they may overwinter if the conditions are right. As conditions get very cold, these flies get or develop into what's called the cold morph. So if you chill pupa, what comes out of it is a bigger, heftier fly that will typically shelter under snow, under leaf litter. It's looking for an above-freezing layer to hug her down over the winter. And if it does have that cover throughout the season and doesn't encounter below-freezing temperatures while it's under this cover, it will survive into the spring. However, that's probably not something we're typically seeing up here, especially this year where all of our snow melted and we're still getting very deep frosts, very cold conditions. There's no shelter, so we're probably not seeing overwintering this year. Instead, what's probably happening are these flies are overwintering or continuing an unbroken yearly cycle in the southern states. They get population build-ups and they're doing what ACE is another insect typically do, which is what they get onto these low-level jet streams, typically 5 to 1,500 feet above the ground. And they're active flyers, but they're going to ride these jet streams and save their energy, and they're typically deposited by storm events in farther northern latitudes. We typically don't get reports from our extension agents that these have arrived before the first week in July. However, once they get here, they're not shy about doing what they do, which is finding your fruit and reproducing on it. So these females will immediately go to work, and they typically lay between 3 and 600 eggs each. And as I said before, they're laying multiple eggs per fruit, and multiple females might be using the same piece of fruit. So your fruit quality is going to go down very rapidly. I've seen an instance last year of a gentleman who was raising sour cherry in his backyard, who I checked on his fruit on one day and one week. And a week later, he calls me back and says, I think I've got SWD. And I said, you know, I didn't see anything last week, but let's have a look. And when I went over to his place, he had SWD on every single piece of his fruit. And he had 100% crop loss at that point. Everything he hadn't picked up into that point was basically rotting on the vine, and it just looked terrible, and there were flies everywhere, boy, howdy. The other issue is not only do these have rapid reproduction and a wide host range, they reproduce very rapidly. You can get an egg to adult turnaround in these flies in as quickly as seven or eight days in the laboratory. In the wild, or rather field conditions, you're probably seeing turnarounds in a little under two weeks. These eggs are hatching as quickly as one to three days. And of course, you get these cycles going so quickly that you have overlapping generations, which is why we see these growing population booms that are so quick to rise is because you've got four or five generations of flies all hanging out in a field. These flies can live a month or more. So you've got prolonged activity, high reproductive activity in these organisms. And unfortunately, as soon as one food source runs out, they're not shy about switching on to whatever fruit is ripening next. So you're finished with your raspberries and something else comes along later season. Let's say you've got some sour cherries up after that, they'll immediately move on from that raspberry to that sour cherry. What can you do when you're faced with such an overwhelming challenge that these are rapidly becoming? Well, the first thing I recommend is that you start building traps for detection. So it's very easy to build homemade traps, although commercial traps are available. Your homemade trap, everything you can get either at your local garden center and grocery store or online at Amazon and they'll deliver right to your door. All you need are some belly cups, a whole punch. And as you can see in your right hand side, this is the trap I'm talking about. There's a mini yellow sticky trap and then some apple cider vinegar. So if you hang that up in your garden, preferably at the bush level next to the plants that are getting ready to ripen or the fruit that's getting ready to ripen, you will see these traps are bringing in these flies. They really like the volatiles that are coming off the apple cider vinegar. They'll go through the holes and they'll either drown in the apple cider vinegar or get stuck in that sticky trap. And at that point it's really convenient sticky trap-wise that you can just pull it out, look closely at the card, look at that magnifying glass and look for either those wing spots, which are your automatic tell if you've got males, or you have to start looking at fly butts with your magnifying glass and see if they've got that buzz saw. Because if they've got that buzz saw, then of course you have female flies. If you really don't want to build your own or if you've got a lot of area to cover and it's more convenient to buy pre-made traps, there are plenty of companies on the market that are selling either liquid bait traps or solid bait traps. And they are often found in the, as you can see the lower left hand corner, I'm sorry, they've got a red coating to them or red paint because the fly finds that particularly attractive. Usually you put water in the base with a little bit of detergent to break up the surface tensions so the flies will drown in there. Or you can buy a bait attached to a yellow sticky card as you'll kind of see on the right. So you don't even need the apple cider vinegar, you can just hang up scented sticky cards. My caution to people is you want to change out liquid baits fairly frequently. If you're using these solid bait traps, what you'll need to be aware of is that they're very, very, very smelly. They smell like rotten pickled jalapenos and the smell will stick until, onto your hands until basically those skin cells fall off. So you want to wear gloves when you handle these. They're not toxic but they smell the high heaven. So there are also some other measures you could take for cultural control. One of the most highly recommended things you can do is if you've got a garden next to a windbreak full of buckthorn or another fruiting plant, remove those potential wild hosts. Boy, howdy, I know nobody likes to hear that they've got to go in and burn out all that buckthorn or cut down all that buckthorn. But that's something to consider is if you remove those potential wild hosts, you'll remove these places where these flies shelter. And what happens is they're finding out more and more that these flies are only on fruit from typically the early morning hours and the early evening hours. And then the rest of the day during the heated day and the night, they're hanging in these sheltered windbreaks, these areas of scrubland and canopy, and they don't like the heat. So they're just hanging out in these areas. And if you have hosts on there that they can use when your fruit's not ready, they're going to be reproducing and building populations on these hosts. And then they're going to move right on to your fruit as soon as it's ready and you're going to wonder where all these flies came from. So cultural control as far as removing these potential wild hosts, that's something you can do. When your fruit is ripening, daily picking is also going to help. You want to remove as much fresh ripe berry as you can so that you're leaving nothing for them to use. You also want to remove any fallen and damaged fruit because they're going to use that to reproduce. It doesn't matter if it's on the vine. It doesn't matter if it's ugly or bruised. If it's there, they're going to use it. So you need to remove that from your garden. The best thing you can do with the fruit that you're removing that you're not planning on consuming is you need to bag it or burn it. Or my favorite is a lot of good feedback. People are seeing that if they're feeding infested fruit to their chickens, not only are their chickens happy because suddenly they're getting all these high protein berries, but you're not going to have anything emerging from those berries and going back onto your garden. If you've got a compost pile that you're throwing the fruit into and you're worried about emergence out of the fruit that you've thrown in this compost pile, I have gotten feedback from Kathy Wederholt, who's an extension agent in Carrington on our research site there, that she's been spraying those piles down with safer soap, which is a non insecticidal insect control agent. And she's been seeing population control out of that, that she's not getting SWD coming out of that. If you're picking fruit that appears to be good, but you're still worried that you might have infestation on there, you can basically halt any maturation of the flies out of that fruit by immediately refrigerating it. These flies don't really perform well in lower temperatures, 50 or below. And so if you just throw it in the fridge, you might have some eggs in there, but don't worry about them hatching out. Either that you're convenience, they're certainly not going to hurt you. If you really want to do some testing to see if this fruit has any fly in it or any larva or eggs, what you can do is a salt float test where you take one gallon of water to one cup salt, you dissolve the salt in there, and then what you'll do is take your fruit sample, throw it in the salt water, leave it for about five minutes, and if you have anything in there, it's going to float to the top and you can have a good look at it. And believe me, if you've got fresh ripe fruit and you've got a little larva floating up out of it, chances are really good it's SWD, so we might not be able to confirm that from just looking at a larva, but just their very presence makes it very likely that's what they are. Overall, if you do have infested fruit, it's completely safe to consume, it's not going to hurt you. You, of course, won't want to eat it if it's got visible bacterial, you know, like rotting, but if you just have a regular piece of fruit that has a little hole in it, totally fine to eat. And it's also high protein berries, so just remember that when you're eating it. Another thing you can do is switch crop varieties, because of course here in North Dakota, we're really seeing that they're not really showing up most years until that first week in July, so if you have anything maturing before that point, you don't need to worry about any treatments, cultural controls, because you're going to have all those berries out of there before they even show up, so you're getting to those berries before they can. Late maturing fruit varieties, and we're especially seeing that in grape up here, seem to also avoid damage. These flies are pretty much done in late August, early September, especially as those colder evenings set in, they just don't seem to do well. Most of their reproduction seems to halt, and just from working with grapes last year, we really weren't seeing any use of grapes at all from anything that we had harvested. We're also looking into berries with tougher skins, so thicker skin varieties, which have higher penetration force needed to basically get that ovipositor through, get those eggs in. They appear to be less preferable hosts. We're starting to see more research on that, and we're doing that ourselves, and so it seems to be less susceptible to infestation. So we'll hopefully produce more data on that in the coming years. We're just trying to get a feel for that, but if you know something has a thicker skin, you're probably better off doing that. So then we get into the tricky part. Most of our control measures for this fly happen to be chemical, and what most growers are doing, especially if their larger operations is a once a week spray, because to control these insects, you have to get to them before they're actually inserting eggs in your fruit because, of course, once those eggs and larvae are in the fruit, any topical spray is not going to hurt them, not going to damage them, so you have to get them right away. So as soon as you see something appearing on the traps and your fruit is ripening so you know they're going to target it, that's when your spraying needs to start. You've got a fair number of sprays that are registered for use on SWD, in North Dakota, as far as the unrestricted, you don't need a sex side application license. This is your starting point right here. One of these sprays, the Pyganic, is registered for organic use, so if that happens to be something that you're doing, we got you covered. However, keep in mind that this is a very rapidly reproducing fly. If you're spraying throughout the season and you're spraying multiple weeks in a row, be sure to change your mode of action in your insecticide to avoid the development of resistance, especially because you've got those overlapping generations. If somebody survives, they're going to be having all these resistant babies and you're going to be in trouble if you're halfway through your season. So remember to switch it up, change everything from your spray once a week, do those different IRAC classes. Also keep in mind that all these sprays have a different pre-harvest interval. If you're planning on harvesting something in the next one or two days, there's only a couple sprays that are going to meet those requirements. A lot of these sprays, you need to wait a few more than, or typically like four or five days before you want to pick that and eat it. So keep that in mind. Plan ahead because you want to make sure that you're not a consuming fruit that's sprayed before that pre-harvest interval is passed. If you're working with larger areas and you've got your restricted use pesticide applicators license, I've thrown together just a basic list of what you have available. We'll probably be creating a formal, basically a list of this that we're going to be publishing in an extension paper so that everybody has access to it later on this year. Nothing formal yet. So this is just the basic list I threw together through North Dakota's Insecticide Registration System. And once again, you actually have a couple more organic options so that Intrust, the Intrust SC, and the Grand Devo are all organic and safe to use in organic systems. Another technique that's just coming down the line, you won't see it available commercially yet, is attractocidal baiting for control. What this is is they're basically taking wax spears impregnated with a bait, which is often sugar. Sometimes it's a sugar yeast mix. And an insecticide, usually a knockdown insecticide that's going to kill your insect within 24 hours of ingestion. They're hanging these up throughout the fields. The flies are coming to them because they like that that bait attractant. And they also like that red color. As you can see, kind of in the lower right hand corner, the flies feeding on that. And that's the point where an ingestion insecticide, contact insecticide, and it's going to die right there. However, we're seeing a lot of mixed results in the field as an individual control. They're seeing very little impact on anything other than the low populations of SWD. So if you already have a large population buildup, this isn't going to be an option. However, other systems are looking at this in association with either widespread insecticide spraying. So this is just an add-on. Or other systems are looking at putting this into high tunnels or into greenhouses and nets. We don't have any solid data on that yet, but that is appearing to be more viable control. So you've already walled off most of your insects, and this is just a system for attracting these couple stragglers that sneak in. Hopefully more on that in the next couple of years as more research gets in. So as far as netting, netting is the new big thing that's just coming down the line that is commercially available for both large and small-scale crops. You can net entire berry operations. We've actually got an extension service in New York that's developed a very nice netting system in conjunction with a UPIC operation called the berry patch. And the person who runs the berry patch worked with them for several years and was using high-tunnel frames with a very fine mesh netting. It's an 80-gram tech net. She was basically attaching that to her frames after fruit had set but before ripening and built a double-door entry system to keep the majority of insects out as people were entering and leaving the UPIC. And what they found was that this was really effective. They were able to get the population of flies down quite a bit and eventually as they refined the system and made sure that they had gotten rid of all the gaps in the netting and had built that double-door entry system, they were getting a 1% or less infestation rate on the fruit and were able to go to a no spray. So they were not spraying for SWD or any other insect as soon as they had gotten that netting up. It can be installed over the high-tunnel hoops or you can build your own custom frame. It is recommended you do that double-door entry system so as you walk in you can check make sure you're not bringing in any insects with yourself and going through again. The cost is about 11.7 cents per square foot when you start buying in bulk. And the nice thing about this netting is it lasts about 7 to 12 years. So you put it up, you take it down in between seasons. But the nice thing is it also protects against wind, storms, hail, other insects. So it really cuts your losses as far as the fruit goes. And the netting itself lasts 7 to 12 years. So it's a larger upfront investment but if you've got a large operation that you're trying to protect, it may help keep you safe in the long run and reduce your overall costs. What you can buy large-scale right now is really limited. Unfortunately, the Berry Protection Solutions, the company that was started by the Berry Patch Person is the only company that imports this netting large-scale. So she has agreed to be the importer. However, she runs this Berry Protection Solutions site. You can buy quite a bit of netting in bulk. So a few in your neighbor are running operations. This is an option that you could save yourself some money, get this netting, and they actually have instructions on the site as to how to build these frames, how to secure the netting, and they'll walk you through it so that you don't have to figure this out yourself. They've got a system in place to help you. And just to give you an idea of what this looks like, so you can see kind of on the right-hand side the high-tunnel frames that they were using, and then on the left the securing mechanisms so they were using basically plastic snaps to hook it onto the frame and reduce abrasion. And then on the lower right-hand corner, you can see the double door frame they had built. And it was really slick. They built in basically a zipper door system onto both of those doors so you could zip your way in and zip your way out and make sure everything was nice and contained. And before I talk about Researcher 2017, I don't have a slide for it, but if you're just trying to protect a couple of bushes in your backyard, you also have some options. There's a company called the Bug Dorm. All one word, and it's out of Taiwan. They'll sell you pre-made netting sleeves that you can either fit over just a couple branches or they've got larger sizes that'll fit over smaller bushes. And these are really slick. You can just put them over your plant, cinch it shut. However, since this is such a small insect, I do recommend that what you do is after you cinch it shut, you also tie it shut with twine so that there's no gap between the net and the branch. And that'll protect your plant for the whole season. So if you put it on after fruit set, when you're ready to harvest, you just lift it off. If you don't want to harvest everything at once, they do sell models that actually zip open and close down the side. So you can just zip in, grab your snack, zip it shut, and remain protected against insects. If you've got larger bushes that you want to protect but you don't want to buy, you know, 26 feet of netting at a time, you can actually go to a company that's called Bioquip. They're a big insect research supplier. They sell the netting, and they'll sell you however many yards you want on their website. So they've got various different types, but you'll want to go with a very fine mesh weave because these insects are only two or three millimeters long. They're very, very tiny. And you can actually sew together your own netting that you can just throw over your plants. So it's kind of a pain up front, but that netting will save you in the long run just because no other insects are going to bother your plants. It's going to protect your plants from that storm damage. And it's probably what we're looking at switching to in a lot of production as the years go by and you can't get this insect under control by other means, you're going to see a lot more netting systems popping up. So just to talk a little bit about my research, how I'm going to serve you as the customer here, the extension service agent or the grower, we're trying to work on actually pinging down what varieties of fruit are the most resistant, as in which varieties have the thickest skin. So we're funded by a North Dakota Specialty Crop Block Grant. And we're taking this machine that you can see on the right, we're taking fresh fruit samples and running it through this giant kind of crank. And at the bottom of the crank is a pressure sensor that has a sewing needle attached to it. So you crank it down on the fruit until it pierces through and it tells you in how many newtons of force it takes to actually get through that fruit. And we're seeing differences in various cultivars. Last year we did it on grape and I'll talk about that in a minute. This year we're doing grape, currant, Aronia, house cap, Juneberry, and cherry varieties. So we're actually trying to peg down which of these varieties might be more resistant just because we're seeing more of this grown in North Dakota, especially just as far as hobbyists in the wine industry are going, they're looking into generating more and more of this fruit. So we want to know which varieties are going to be best for them. So on top of that we're also doing, we're taking fruit samples and running them through what's called a no-choice study. We're in, we're actually seeing how far these insects can go if they can actually use certain varieties of this fruit. So we'll artificially infest it, we'll put the adults in with the fruit samples, and then once those adults are removed after a couple days, we're letting the fruit sample sit and seeing if we get those eggs all the way to adult out of that fruit sample. And in addition, we're also going to try and get a, try and get a handle on when these insects are coming in when their populations are building up from year to year. So starting from last year and going on for the next couple of years, we're putting sticky traps at various sites including Carrington, Absaraka, and Fargo. I think we also had a couple of traps. Somebody else had put up for us in Williston last year. We may have that again this year. And we're going to associate this with weather data and see if there's a regular pattern of population arrival, build up, and what they're building up on throughout the season. So just to talk a little bit about that penetrometer data, that fruit-pusing data I got from last year, we were taking it from grapes in September last year during the period that they're normally harvested. We were selecting random berries from a bunch and we were basically running them through the poking test of doom and just checking to see what force was needed on average from those 10 berries for each variety to pierce them. And we were actually seeing a very, very wide range of piercing force between the different varied varieties anywhere from about a half a Newton to almost three Newtons worth of force. So we're thinking that this is going to change their susceptibility to SWD. And as you can see, La Crescent was really our synth in the berry. It really couldn't take it, couldn't deal it out, and it couldn't take it. So the flies would probably very easily use this variety. More common varieties, kind of like the St. Croix, the Marquette, the Petite Pro were a little bit higher on the Newton force. They'd probably be a less preferred host, but the SWD would probably still use them if they needed to. And then, of course, our highest variety was one that's still in testing. It's MN 1258. So I don't think that's commercially available, but don't quote me on that. And so we're seeing a big difference just in grape and we think we're going to see some similar results when we look at those other fruit varieties. And it may make or break somebody's season if they've got nothing but thin skin varieties of fruit in their yard versus thicker skins that the SWD are a little less I used to using. If you want more information and you don't want to listen to this lecture again, we do already have an extension publication out. It's Integrated Pest Management of Spotted Wing Drosophila in North Dakota. Not only does it have that non-restricted use pesticide list, it's got some tips and tricks for how to manage this pest and just more contact information. And if you've got samples, if you've got questions, we are, of course, here to serve you. So don't hesitate to ask if there's more information you want, but this is a good starting point. I suppose, just to give you an idea, there's plenty of research out there and more coming out all the time. I want to give a special thanks to Dr. Esther McGinnis, Dr. Jen Knodl, my other professors who are helping out, Harleen Haderman, Valenti, Kathy Reeder-Holdover and Carrington, one of my students who has helped me quite a bit, Taylor Sanger, Department of Ag and the USDA, and, of course, the Specialist Crop Block Grant crew who were happy enough to give us this money. Please give us more. And with that, I'll open it up to questions. Please don't hesitate. Hello? Hi. I have pheromones specific to each insect. The pheromones for the Spider Wing Drosophila specialty baits are. So you may still see other insects attracted to it. Once in a while, I do see other species of Drosophila, other species of fruit fly. And, of course, those picnic beetles, seed beetles, they love getting in there as well. So for the most part, when I've used these traps, I've seen Spotted Wing Drosophila. Are you able to buy the pheromones for the Spotted Wing Drosophila in the nursery stores? I don't think I've seen it in nursery stores before. You'll probably have to go with an online specialty store, a common one that I highly recommend is called Great Lakes IPM. And they carry several different brands of these baits. So you can either buy a jug of liquid bait, or you can buy basically little packets of liquid or solid bait that you can attach to a trap. Thank you so much. Yeah. Looks like you have a question, Caitlin, on the number of the NDSU publication. Oh, let me pull that up. It looks like it's E1715. If I'm reading that correctly. So the easy way to find our publications on our websites, you can just go in the search box, type that number in it. That will usually bring up our publications. Or you could type in Spotted Wing Drosophila. I would probably do it, too. Oh, I've got a good question. Does it attack any vegetables? I have not seen it use anything vegetative as it were. It does just prefer fruit. However, I know some people refer to tomatoes as a vegetable versus a fruit. And I have seen reports of them on tomato. I have not seen it here in North Dakota yet. But we may eventually, as populations become more and more common, see them utilizing that. Any other questions for Caitlin? Caitlin, it looks like you're off the hook. Well, that's great. If anybody happens to have questions they think of later, feel free to contact me. Or any of the researchers here at NDSU research is ongoing. We're still learning a lot about this insect worldwide. And hopefully next year we'll have some more information to present for you. Well, thank you very much. And thanks to all of you for attending. And please come back the next two weeks. And you'll hear more about other topics. Thank you so much.