 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video and today we're gonna talk about Citadel's new Shades now I got a clean of a mess. All right, let's get into it Let's strict techno man sir. That is Vinci V. Let us get to the technique and learn it Vinci V now It's no secret around here If you've been a fan of this channel for a long time that I'm not a big fan of GW's paints That is to say the regular Citadel paint line that being said Citadel's shades have long been a very useful product There's something that I regularly use in my painting routine Even if it's only for things like bases or fur or highly textured surfaces that you can't really Establish normal volumes on so when Citadel invited us over and said that they were going to have us experiment with their brand new Reformulation of the entire shade line. I must admit. I had some trepidation these products are time tested. We all love them We all use them. They were probably the first miniature We ever painted that we thought looked even decent probably involved shades of some kind as we magically Applied them or the older versions of them and then all of a sudden there was depth and we were like, oh my gosh I can paint So today we're gonna sit down and take a look at these new Citadel shades Reformulated with contrast medium effectively to see how they hold up So can we you know, how do we use them? Can we use them to paint whole miniatures? Maybe What's the comparative difference between them and the original and the most important question the one we're gonna save for last How do they look over? Metallics. Oh goodness. Goodness. Let's get over the painting desk. We've got a lot of experimentation to do So to begin with here We're gonna use some plague bearers and this guy's actually primed in Korax white the new primer This isn't a review of that but as white primer goes out of a rattle can it's actually pretty nice. So I like it And we're gonna start with I'm this first part is gonna be all about all the new shade colors. So We're gonna basically apply them in different ways But on these white plague bearers of this one plague bear see if we can get a reasonable looking plague bearer using just the shades and I also want to talk to us a little bit about how to apply these This is something I think not enough people talk about oftentimes when I see people apply shades they just sort of slap them on and Really just leave it around notice how when I apply it I constantly am moving my brush Sweeping it up and down and around moving the brush I'm using a big brush with a big belly and I'm moving it around a lot And this is really the key to using both the existing shades But also these new ones especially these new ones these new shades have been reformulated with contrast medium as such They want to flow into the recesses They want to flow together as they dry it draws together draws off of the flat surfaces Which makes sense for these this shade line Contrast and shades really are basically the same product now. It's just about the intensity of the actual tone and so I'm always sweeping the brush moving in a circular motion and Making sure that it's all the potential pools of paint are spread all around the miniature Now as I move into this color here, you'll notice this is way more intense So some of the new shade line is a much more saturated color than some of the others This was always the case, but here it's really pronounced especially with these new tones This pox walker flesh being I think the most intense out of the whole lot As we continue to just layer on these colors what I do like is how well they sort of work well together There's never any issue of reactivation or anything like that as I'm applying Our you know red burgundy color here again. It's rather intense It goes over the other colors no problem and really doesn't give me any issue for doing things like these boobos and welts It's really very easy because the way it's it as you can see it draws around the space Finally, I wanted to get some more yellow in there So this crope green I think is actually better than the pox walker green for things like pox walker and Nurgle flesh This is probably a better base tone for it, but this one I really like it has a wonderful yellow green tone it's not too intense and it retreats to the shadows nicely and These shades as long as you're moving your brush keeping it flowing and running around You will get a lot of different Variation and value from running them over top of each other now the blue and the gray I didn't really have a place so I guess this guy is a blue sword blue fingernails and blue horns This blue shade is really interesting because it's really intense I actually don't think it would shade much of any blue maybe a very bright blue color and The gray one here. I put it on the base It seems fine if you're just looking for a soft subtle shade to a near pure white That's basically as near as I can tell the use for it Here's our finished plague bearer now. He's certainly not winning any painting competitions But not bad for shades only in about I don't know 15 20 minutes of work Certainly something if you've got to paint a whole bunch of these guys I think it has a nice effect So just throwing a lot of the shades together layering them over top of each other and you can get some good-looking minis So I know it wouldn't be normal that you would paint an entire miniature using just shades But I thought it was important to show this here because some of these new shades do have just as with the old line very different levels of sort of Impact saturation and intensity and I thought it would be good to show that off as well I think this is a perfectly reasonable looking plague bearer Like you could put this guy on the table and I think feel pretty good about it so I do think that these open up a good range of possibilities because the the Colors are now wider and we have access to more shades that are in slightly different tones I do think it expands those who really want to get to painting fast and use that new Corax white and just work your way down. But of course, there's still more to do So for my next test, I wanted to go ahead and put these over both different primes one pure white one Zenithal I'm using Ryklin flesh a because it's traditionally been one that I think you can put sort of a layer or two over Just kind of a bright white or every color and get a good interesting looking result that kind of looks like skin and The first thing I noticed immediately here when doing this was that the Zenithal really does wildly impact how this color acts and that's because as it's drying here And you notice I'm still doing my best as I move the brush around to sweep over it constantly been moving pick up the excess So on and so forth, but as it dries as you'll see here Because it pulls away from the recess is so much on the white you get basically a filter over the highlights Very little coffee staining or bad effects. It mostly goes down into the recesses on The Zenithal one where I didn't have as much of a bright color It really in fact ends up being you know barely moving the color of the tones at all So if you are going to use these with a Zenithal, especially as a primary color You want to make sure you do a pretty heavy Zenithal leaning a lot more into the very light grays and whites So that way the filter will work Final test here is going to be around the metallics and this is a big one for me Zenithal shades have long been something I never Advocated putting over metallics a lot of people wash their metals to me It is a fast road to making your metals look bad or at least making them look dingy Now if you're going for something like Nurgle and you want dingy rusty crusty old metals then by all means They were fine however a lot of us were just trying to get a good clean metal that still had some amount of you know depth to it and Reset shading and the problem was it would leave a lot of even if you cleaned it and so you didn't really get coffee stains It would still leave a filter Sort of scummy layer over the metals So this is going to be the real test Putting these over a high gloss metal surface. Do we get a cleaner application and does the color retreat more to the shadows? Let's find out So for our metallic test, of course We're going to use some primary space marines and we're gonna use the holy trinity Null oil agrax and seraphim sepia Basically the left side of all these marines is going to be done in the new Contrast shade over the metallic and the right side is going to be done over the traditional with the traditional Shades the existing ones that are on the market as of you know, basically right now the important thing to note here is that these are all airbrush Painted with Vallejo metal color steel and then Vallejo metal color silver from above so as per sort of my standard zenithaling and These are high high gloss metallic So the shade sweeps over them very easily and as you can see here. I really think you get a nicer result from the left side Then you do from the right side, but in the end I'll let you be the judge of that I will say that overall I was quite impressed with how these things how the Null oil Came out especially just producing some very soft black lines But nothing that was too bad. No coffee staining. No anything like that as we move to agrax obviously here now we start incorporating some brown tones so we're going to be making these metals look older and The Color shift if it's left in the highlights will become much more readily apparent. So once again We are very much keeping that brush moving and once again left side is old and Right side is new I will say the feel of these two even as you apply them is different You actually notice it a lot when you're going in between the two The contrast medium one just feels a bit different in how it smooths around the miniature Then the traditional You know acrylic thinner one Probably just because of the chemical mix. It's it's hard to really explain, but there is a tangible difference there Once again, I think that this really does show it pretty well When you look at the left side versus the right side There is a lot more shine. I think that is still coming through a little bit less of that patina That's left on the large flat areas and over the metallics with the new style shades Finally Sarah from sepia, which should have the biggest effect Because this is just more or less pure brown. So If we're giving it a light, you know wash of this one would expect that it will still Tint a lot of things brown and how much it pulls away from the recesses will be very very very obvious And right away there you can really see the application of the traditional old Sarah from sepia How much more yellow it makes the metal look almost immediately even as I start moving the brush around And I think you'll see this through into the the final picture The I think with these kinds with this color is where I notice the biggest difference So there's our final shot and I think as I said, this is where you can really see it When we look at the left side of the new Sarah from sepia a lot more of it is pulled away And you don't really see that yellow patina in the highlight near as much Whereas with the old school Sarah from sepia, you can really see how it's left that film throughout There we are. So all in all I have to say I like the new shade range. It is an evolution over the last one I wouldn't call it a revolution. They're still basically the same product that do basically the same thing But they are really good the metallics and especially did particularly impress me. There was more shine visible It's hard to perhaps see that in the photos just given the amount of light I need to shine on the managers to take their picture But here in reality, I can say that the half that was done with the new one was noticeably different more shiny than the half that was done with the old recipe Either way, I really like the new colors that have been added to the shade line So I think those are going to be highly valuable And I do think overall they're a very good product They continue to be everything you love before but there it is Give it a like if you liked it subscribe for additional hobby cheating in the future If you've got a question about the new contrast range Of shades that I didn't answer drop that down in the questions below. 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