 Hello boys and girls, welcome to part 10 of the EJ25 build for the 06 STI. In today's video, the engine and transmission meet yet again, after being separated quite some time. It's a sad story. But not without issues, I actually forget something, as always, and I actually finish installing the Cylinder 4 cooling mod by Dominic, Giradam cooling mod. So stay tuned, as always, subscribe, like, comment, and enjoy the video. So you see how the engine tilts forward, and the transmission kind of would not align with the engine. There's a little bit of difference, I mean, I can see it. It's almost the same, but to make my day easier, I do have to raise and jack up the transmission up a bit, because it's resting on the recon pinion, I believe, right now. So let's do that. Okay, let me show you what's going on. See that long bolt? It's almost where it needs to be. Needs to go into that hole there. Same thing on the other side, it's very close. The engine is tilted a bit to the right. See that's why it's important to, once you hang it, to get it perfect. Perfectly leveled. So now I have a little issue, gotta use some muscle to align it and push it in. Here we go. So I took the engine out, while it was never in all the way. See I noticed, I knew about it, about these two pins. See there's one pin, and there is another. These are two guide pins. When I took my engine out, the original block, remember this one is from a WRX. The engine took one pin in one state, so I was missing a pin on the transmission. And this block, the WRX block, did not have any pins. And I just, I knew about it, but I forgot about it. I thought, I had to take the one from my old block. I'm thinking I'll do it later, later, later, I put it away, and I forgot about it. So I took it out of my old block, and I put it in here. And I put grease on it, as you can see. So next time, if I ever do have to take it out again, it's gonna be much easier. They can give you a hard time to split the block from the transmission. I think the splines, that shaft that goes into the clutch plate, that's really tight, it's gotta be just right for it to go in. So I'm gonna push it in and turn the crank at the same time. I just, yeah, I gotta take it out. Look what I did. I just noticed, like a dumbass, I have to switch the engine mounts. These bolts should angle out. See what I mean? This one's like that. This one's like that. So now I gotta remove the thread bearing. I hope I don't have to take the pressure plate off, put it back in the, back on the shaft, and switch those engine mounts. We'll be right back with your regular scheduling. Okay, a little update. See other angle now. They were on its good side, but I didn't know, I didn't wasn't paying attention. All I had to do was flip each one. Mission accomplished. So not many bolts, one not there, here bolt, bolt. Another nut down there, and then the two bolts that will hold up the starter. Okay, we're gonna pop in the thread bearing. That's it. Slave cylinder. We'll do that later. Now, time to drop the engine. Right there are the engine mounts. All right. All right, now that the engine is in, the gap is gone. I did tighten up most of the bolts. Now it's time to finish up this area here. I'm gonna install this boot. Okay, I'm gonna need two both hands for this. So that goes like that inside, obviously inside the transmission. Then the starter, then this bolt with this bracket goes on top, and a regular bolt. Let's see, I'm gonna figure out which one, is it the shorter one or the longer one. Probably the longer one goes on the bottom. Then reinstall the slave cylinder, and then move on to the turbo. All right, let's take care of the pitch mount here. This is a cart, boy. This one, I've been in this car for 12 or 13 years, ever since it was new. So probably back in 07, the original one actually broke. That's why I bought this one. As you can see, it's in perfect shape. Get a dam cylinder for cooling mod. Let me show you what I mean for those who don't know. So what you do is you remove this plug. Now I've done this in, I don't know, part three maybe. You remove, this is the driver's side cylinder head, and this is literally in the back of the engine facing the firewall. So you remove this plug. This is only for the 0607 STI. The only really difference between newer STIs is that you have to shorten up the holes, which I'm going to show you in a minute. So you remove that plug, install RTV on the fitting provided, but that's pretty much all I did. I just installed it with the holes. So this is what I'm talking about. This guy here, okay, that's the mod, and you can see the fitting right there. This kind of copper yellowish looking one. Okay, so that's the plug in the back. So this comes up, what you need to do on the 0607s, you need to shorten up this hose a bit so it doesn't hit the steering shaft here. This part of the T goes here, so the flow, kind of looking at this T, the flow will go this way. It's kind of a smooth flow, it needs to remain a smooth flow. And that hot coolant from cylinder 4 will go in here and continue going out this way. You need to connect this part into the return from the heater core, which is this guy here, which is the bottom hose. And I removed this upper one to show you how you can tell. See this orange guy here? That's an arrow pointing out. So this is the upper hose and you can see a green arrow, kind of, you know, this, most of it was under the clamp, but you can see this arrow pointing in. So that's your feed and that's your return. So the return goes into the black pipe here and this is your output. The silver one is out, black one is in. What you do is, you basically cut this one here, shorten up this pipe here and what's going to happen is, I mean you can do it however you want, you know, you can put this T, whatever you want, as long as it will reach, but I'm going to just cut it right here. And this bottom part will go into the cylinder 4 cooling mat hose. And obviously this goes back on the black pipe and this, not cut at all, you don't got to do anything to this, you're only able to remove it. I just removed it to show you those arrows. The proper way to identify the return and feed, that will just, the feed will just go on. So that's what I'm going to do right now and I'm going to show you the result. So this is what's going on, basically, this is how it should look. I put these clamps, the bolts of the clamps on the other side away from this hose here, so they don't rub. It's not really touching this one. As you can see, I did shorten up this bottom hose here coming out of the head by maybe two inches. So it stays away from the steering shaft. That's basically it. That's how it should look. So the flow goes this way and from the bottom up that hot coolant will exit sooner and go back into the system, back to the water pump. So this one goes to the water pump here. That's pretty much it for the cylinder 4 cooling mat. Very easy. I know obviously I don't have the inner cooler installed, so it will make your life much easier if you remove the inner cooler. Some guys do it from the bottom. It's much easier. It's not many. It's, I don't know, five bolts or so to remove the inner cooler. So it's up to you. You can remove the inner cooler and make your life easier. It's not really difficult to remove the inner cooler or you can go through the bottom like some of the guys do. Let's fix this mess over here. Basically a few plugs, the pressurized cooling tank, some vacuum lines go into the turbo and I'm most likely going to remove the post solenoid and just clean it up because I had oil coming out of it when the engine broke down. That's it for this one. Like, subscribe, hit the bell button. See you soon.