 Hey everybody, welcome back to part two now of the Sony PVM 2030 Restoration. Today we're actually going to be working on the recap and that's replacing capacitors and then calibration for geometry specifically. And then I'll go through some other adjustments that are available at the end of the video. But just so you know, if you want to know how to tear this monitor down and clean it up and look at some other repairs. I do have an initial video part one for this. If you haven't seen it already, I'll tag it right here. But let's go ahead now and get started. First thing is if you are working on a similar monitor to this, meaning if you're working on a Sony PVM 2030 or a 2130 and that could have a Q or a QM and then a 2730 Q or QM 2530 Q or QM or just 2530, 3230. If you have any of those monitors, then you may have a similar process to this to calibrate those monitors. Now, this monitor here was, I showed a lot in the first video about how we made some adjustments but it had some major geometry problems, specifically pin cushion problems on the corners and the edges of the monitor. And so to make these adjustments on this PVM and this family or variant of PVMs, you have to again get inside of the back of the monitor and you'll need to access the circuit board to the right where the flyback is and that's this board right over here on the right hand side that I have opened out for geometry specifically. And here's the backside of this board. This board is accessible by swinging it open a little bit. We went into that a little bit in the prior video. But in order to get this recapped, I'm not actually going to remove the board. I'm going to leave the board hanging in place but I will disconnect all these little wire connection points here where they have these plastic connectors. There is a marking on the circuit board for which cable set goes into that port. So I went and I had to manually write on the clip, the plastic clip individually, which speed, which spot it plugged back into because it wasn't written on the plastic and some of those did seem a little bit more similar and I didn't want to connect them in properly obviously. So I went through and removed all these capacitors and that is a look right there, pretty much the after job. The only one I haven't removed as of this point is this two-sided capacitor here, which you've got down here in the bottom corner. But you see these potentiometers, those are what's going to control our geometry settings. You have to manually turn each one of these yellow potentiometers and that will actually control your screen geometry. So you have to do all this while it's running. But this is a look at the circuit board with all the capacitors removed and then the spots under the capacitors have been cleaned. So I went ahead and installed all the capacitors now. So every capacitor on this entire board for the most part has been replaced. So that was, I think, I want to say it's about 40 capacitors and all, but there was one that was a dual polarity or didn't have a negative side. So that was the only single capacitor I did not replace. However, we can use the back side here and I'm going to go ahead and send a composite video signal in with some test patterns using the 240p test suite. I'm going to go in here and make my adjustments by sticking a screwdriver with a flat head tip that fits inside these little holes. You'll see each one of them is labeled in white and then there is a rectangle next to them that says what they control. So the first one we're going to adjust on here is this top right hand corner and that is horizontal size. So actually we're going to move over and do horizontal center first. I'm sorry, not size. And that's going to just move the screen left and right. As we turn that left or right while we're watching the screen, our geometry will go left or right. So now we're going to walk through some of these additional settings that are on here on this backboard and it's the same process we just did there where we'll be sticking that screwdriver in and turning. Now you want to just be careful when you do that. Don't stick it in there hard and damage the potentiometer on the other side. This next one is horizontal size. So that one should be pretty much self-explanatory too where you're actually expanding and contracting the size of the horizontal picture. Now there are two pin cushion settings and that's right under horizontal size. You see the arrows here. These are both just pin cushion. So we're going to walk through both of those. There's one that is pin phase right here in the middle and then to the right we've got pin amp. So let's see. First we're going to look at pin amp and that is going to be the adjustments on our corners so that we can straighten out those corner sides and make it look less globe or you can expand it out and make it look the other way. But that's what pin amp controls. It controls that sweeping of the screen where again you're going to make it look like this or it's going to expand out like that in the corners and there's only that one pin amp control on this monitor. Then after that we're going to take a look at pin phase and pin phase is when you're actually tilting the screen either the top or the bottom towards or away from you. I'll show you that on the screen here but it's kind of hard to show but if your screen looks like one side is closer to you than say the bottom or the top so when I turn it it's just going to tilt the screen from top to bottom either towards or away from you so you want to try to land that right in the middle of the screen. Next we have our vertical center potentiometer and that one is just like horizontal center. It's going to help us center adjust our vertical orientation on our screen so that's the up and down. We want to get that right in the middle and then use vertical size over here to expand that out a little bit and finally expand the top and bottom so that we won't see the top or bottoms of the picture. We'll have it blocked out and we'll over scan it slightly. I recommend you use this monitor slightly over scanned. Now there's a second horizontal center adjustment called horizontal frequency towards the bottom and it works pretty much just like the other one but I recommend only using this if you can't get it centered using the first one. Use that first adjustment before you go to that horizontal frequency adjustment. Next we have screen bow picture bow adjustment and that's just going to be the adjustment on kind of the vertical angle of our screen here. We're going to see how it bows if we turn it one way or the other so we'll want to try to straighten that up using that potentiometer and again you just stick that screwdriver in there and turn it slowly and that's how I adjust it. It takes a lot of time of just going back and forth and sometimes resetting but one of the other things you'll want to check is the linearity and there isn't actually a linearity adjustment potentiometer on this monitor but you'll still want to check it and try to use the other controls to get to it. Now I'm going to be putting back this monitor putting it back together you know securing some cables that have been pulled out and cleaned for the prior video but while I'm doing that I want to show you just a couple things that I will not be going over and you can see them right here in this picture. First off we've got horizontal stat convergence and that is right on this black piece of plastic right here on the neck board and the potentiometer is on the opposite side of that so it's parallel to the CRT gun and that's really kind of tricky to get in there and adjust so it's very difficult to get in there and adjust that kind of without grounding your hand to get some of the metal in this it's really compact in there so that's how you adjust that though if you need to get in there and adjust that convergence you can do that right there and then towards the top right hand of the screen you'll notice on the recapped board we've got the flyback right here and on the back top of the flyback there is an adjustment there for focus and then screen brightness and if it's not sometimes it's not up there anymore for that you can find that over here too on the neck board where my cursor is there's a potentiometer hole there that will help you adjust your g2 screen brightness now don't want to you don't want to turn that one up too much unless your tube's really dying because that can really crank the voltage up actually going into your tube sometimes and it'll it'll cause it to wear out sooner if it's but if it's already wearing out sometimes you do have to go up a little bit on that voltage and it's safe to do so they're rated to go higher than the 6.3 to 6.1 volts it's usually fed into those tubes so the rest of this job is pretty much me reconnecting these wires or double checking that they're all connected this is a closer look at that horizontal static convergence adjustment you could see there briefly that little white hang on that little white thing right here that's the potentiometer that you have to turn to make the adjustment so it's right in there and then the next bit is just reattaching those boards making their seat sure they're seated back in there properly and screwed back in and then I'm going to finally remove all the composite video input cables and then put the shell back on but I just want to let you know again I had to calibrate this monitor for composite video use because it's going to be used by a museum for composite video specifically and if you use a monitor like this you definitely will notice there's a difference between the there's a difference between the calibrations when you switch between inputs and it also varies heavily between you know the different types of consoles you use and your picture will often be left or right shift heavily depending on what type of game you use and especially if you're changing between like s-video and composite and rgb or computer as it's labeled on this monitor so the best thing to do is set it up for whatever input you're using the majority of the time so if I actually calibrated this to rgb everything that would be displayed in composite would look shifted over to the left too far and that's why I have to use it from or usually I'm just testing it primarily for composite video use that way when it shows up that the client who gets it will be happy so this one works really well now I recommend recapping that board if you're capable of doing it it's something that you shouldn't probably have to remove that chassis board out of the monitor since it opens up like it does it's pretty easy to get in there and remove the capacitors and then replacing them it's just a simple job and as long as you have some experience and decent tools that shouldn't be an issue but these older monitors are definitely going to need some of those capacitors because this specific monitor would continuously drift if I recalibrate it it would just drift back out of calibration an hour or two later and look bad again and then I'd go recalibrate it and it wouldn't stay calibrated because the capacitors in it were bad and I had to replace those and once I did then it would actually stay calibrated I had to test it for many hours but this is pretty much after those tests it looks really great so that's about all you need to know I think for this 2030 and the family of 2030 monitors and if you have any questions please leave them below I'll do a follow-up Q&A for mostly questions on this series of videos but I do have some more repairs coming so again thank you for watching please make sure you subscribe and definitely hit the bell notification because just like everyone on YouTube we have no idea how anybody gets notified of our new videos coming out but I'm Steve thanks again for watching I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content