 In today's tutorial I am going to focus on washes, both commercially produced and self-made washes from all paints. Adding washes is a technique of the painting models with very thin mix of paint. It is used to enhance the surface details, create artificial shadows and add depth. Washes can be mixed from oil, enamel or acrylic paints. I start with washes made by Tamiya, namely panel line accent color. Tamiya produces several shades, but I prefer the simply black one. I think the dark brown color has a very weak tone, it is hardly visible after coating model with varnish. The advantage of these washes is excellent fluidity, which creates a symmetrical coating, dry fast and you can easily wipe the wash off with wet thinner. Tamiya wash is not suitable for surface coating, but it is great for panel lines and small recesses. It can happen that it doesn't reach all the places when coating large areas. Now the dark brown wash. Shades is suitable for white or very light camouflage. You wouldn't even notice it on the dark one. Wash is going to dry in 10 minutes. How to wipe the dried wash off? I use Tamiya X20 thinner or less aggressive thinner for washes from reproduction. You can also use trepantine. Here is the result after wiping the wash off. If you have sprayed your model with gloss varnish properly, then you can wipe the wash off without problems. Wash will stick on the surface coated with flat clear or semi-gloss varnish and it will be difficult to wipe it off. Acrylic varnishes provide to be the most useful because they are very resilient. I use Ganza Mr. Color Super Clear 3 and Classic Glossy Mr. Color. Tamiya varnish is not bad either, but is necessary to apply in two or three layers. Then I use Alcat Aquagloss varnish for metallic surface. Now a demonstration of Tamiya Wash on the small Star Wars X-Wing model. The model has a lot of raised sections and details. Tamiya Wash is going to work really great here. Afterwards, I can nicely remove it from wings, so it will stay only in chinks and on the edges. When I building aircraft models, I use Tamiya Wash for cockpit, chassis and wing flaps. Now other washes or rather shades, it is not possible to wipe them off and they are applied on the flat surface. I usually use them when I painting scale figures to create artificial shadows. They change the tint of the base color, so they act as a color filter too. This is how it looks after drying. It would require too much work to create similar shading with common paints. Yet one more demonstration on the model. If you try to wipe the wash off, you will remove the underlying color too. Now finally let's look at the oil washes. It really does not matter which oil paint you buy. The important thing is that they must be fully opaque. So you can simply buy cheap umptown or uptie lung paints. Expensive paints for professional artist could cost even 20 euros for a piece. And they are great for painting scale figures, but I think they are too good just for common washes. And you can as well as work with cheaper ones. At the beginning you will need only three colors, black, brown and white. You can use white wash to soften black or very dark camouflage colors. That was just a short introduction. It is not good work with paint extruded straight away from a tube. As you can see it contains a lot of oil that you don't want to have in the wash. Therefore I squeeze out the paint to a paper napkin and leave the oil to soak in. The less oil we have in the wash, the faster it dries. And you don't have to wait a week until it's fully dried. I use thinner for washes for thinning oil paints too. I coat the entire model with wash using a standard brush. The wash makes the base color a little darker. And it is therefore necessary to take this fact into consideration when you mixed paints for a base coat. Do not apply wash on the whole model at once, but progress rather gradually. One wing first, then the second, bottom, fuselage. Some people leave the washes to dry for up to 6 hours. But if you use a hairdryer then you can wipe off the dried wash just after 10 minutes. You can use a common dried paper towel. I am wiping it off in fly direction. This way I can create a very subtle effect of weathering. I suggest using surgical gloves when you wiping off the other parts of the model. Wash properly dries after 3 or 4 days. And without gloves you could leave fingerprints on the model. A little summary at the end. If you are beginner, then you are probably only need Tamiya panel line accent color and tarpan tie. I mainly use oil washes because I create rivets by hand on the majority of models. And then I cover the whole surface with wash to get the paint into the all rivets holes. Tamiya wash is not good in this case because you can wipe it off with a dry paper towel. I usually use oil washes on the surface of the model. Wings, fuselage. And then I use Tamiya panel line accent color for gear and details in the cockpit. It is not in my power to show and describe all existing washes. So please consider this video only as a brief guide. What you could use and what provide useful to me personally.