 Section 1 of the Book of Ices, Ice Beverages, Ice Creams and Ices. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org recording by phone. The Book of Ices, Ice Beverages, Ice Creams and Ices by Mrs. H. Llewelyn Williams. The History of Ice Cream As Rome was not built in one day, so was mankind a long while arriving by slow stages to the perfection of summer refreshment enjoyed in our American ice cream. So frankly acknowledged is its excellence that it is welcomed in London where the climate favours its being eaten all the year round. The benighted Europeans, for the most part, have to be content with its paler sisters, the water ice and the old fashioned ice cream. In early times, beverages were called by exposure in porous vessels to currents of air. In the hot countries possessing snow-capped mountains, however, the snow was gathered, compressed, converted into a kind of ice by a saturation with water, which when frozen was cut into blocks as required. The snow is still used in the Neverias of Spain and in Turkey for sherbets, the sorbetti of the Italians and the sorbets of the Parisians. Ice has been known for the table from time out of mind. There are biblical allusions to its use by Solomon and the people of Palestine still use ice and snow from Mount Lebanon. Alexander the Great was so fond of it that a frozen delicacy, the Macedon, is named after him as the chief Macedonian. About 50 years ago, a Bostonian shipped ice to the British metropolis where ices were made fashionable by Gunter, a confectioner. But the supply is now drawn from Norway, augmented greatly by a family named Gatti, making the delicious dainty popular. In Paris, as in India and South America, several reliable ice-making apparatuses suffice for the demand, and freezing mixtures of approved value are elsewhere used. The last are recommended where ice is not readily obtainable, for these machines are not practicable on a small scale or for casual want. While there is a wide variety of iced delicacies, upon excluding such fanciful flights as frozen fruits, glacé aux fruits, two main kinds are found. Water ices and ice creams. The latter, called by the English cream ice, is divided into the American or Philadelphian and the Italian or Neapolitan. The former is more of a cream and less of a custard than the other. The proportion of eggs used differing, but they have a close resemblance in substance. The art of making either sort and the multitude of kindred frozen sweets is to be acquired quickly, with no difficulty, from the instructions in these pages. Abroad, one can revel in ices, without visiting the most fashionable confectioners, as the ever-present Italian vendors sell excellent articles, and at the petty stalls by the portico of the Milan Cathedral, as good ices can be had in clam shells as out of a porcelain at Donys in Florence or at a Florian in Venice. End of Section 1. Recording by phone. Section 2 of the Book of ices, ice beverages, ice creams and ices. This is the LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by phone. The Book of ices, ice beverages, ice creams and ices by Mrs. H. Luhlin-Williams. Ice cream making, appurtences, utensils, etc. Although this list of the utensils required by the ice cream maker may seem formidable, all are not indispensable and most are already in the kitchen. I have also, where possible, indicated how to attain the end by simple means. Absolutely necessary, however, are the freezer with its ice bale, a paddle or wooden spoon, an ice bucket with implements for breaking ice up small, and, common in all kitchen outfits, a Ben-Marie water bath or Farina boiler, strainers and sieves of wire, muslin, hair or silk, lemon squeezer, preferably of wood, as it imparts no flavour as metal might do, mortar and pestle, an egg beater, unless you use silver knife or fork, or hand whisk to beat with, jelly bags, porcelain lined bowls, moulds for cream, an ice cave, etuve, for biscuit lessie. Confectioners for precision use lactometers for the milk, thermometers, saccharometers, areometers, graduated measures and scales. For family use, there are patent machines saving labour and time as they are worked by a crank. The old styles turned by hand is not, however, out of use. Instructions for the machines are generally provided with them. Ours are for the old-fashioned freezing can in a pail. This is a cylindrical vessel of pewter, block tin or tinned plate. The bottom is rather thick and rounded. The lid or cover has a strong handle and fits tightly on its deep lower edge only so that its removal is easy. If this border fitted tightly all its depth, it would pump up the contents and be hard to take off. The outer vessel, or pail, is of hooped wood, somewhat deeper than the freezer and capacious enough to enable ice to be packed between its inner face and the freezer's surface. It is supplied with a drain hole at the bottom and stopping plug to draw off the wastewater of the melted ice. The Ben-Marie, or custard boiler. This is an apparatus to boil cream, sugars, etc., without danger of burning. It comprises two vessels, the inner one for the cream, etc., to be cooked, kept away by hot water from contact with an outer jacket, which is directly exposed to the fire. The inner dish is usually block tin or iron, porcelain lined. The outer of tin plate. Mortar and pestle. These implements in whiteware, as used by drugists, are useful for crushing kernels, bruising fruit, and pounding sugar and spice. Egg beavers. A knife beats even better than a fork. The beavers worked with a crank save time. The large branched whisk is very efficacious, and so is the confectioner's egg whip. The ice pail. The pail should be strong enough to resist the breaking up of ice in it. The pieces of egg size can be reduced as wanted. The paddle, or wooden spoon. Any hardwood, not too heavy, will do, as long as it emits no flavour. If a flat metal spoon or spatula is used, it ought to be silvered or tinned, and even then it is apt to detach metal scrapings from the freezer. The pulper or masher. Fruit is generally mashed with a wooden logger head or potato masher, or with the pestle in the mortar, but some cooks force it through a coarse grater. The flat graters are handy for many purposes, being stronger than round ones. Molds or shapes. These are made in a bewildering variety. The most desirable are a round one, an egg, or oval, cabinet pudding shape, an oblong, popularly the brick, the pyramid, and the rockery, moule au rocher, an irregularly surfaced mound. The size most in request in the family kitchen is the small one intended for single ices. All are made in halves, hinged and shaped to facilitate turning out. The simpler the shape and less irregular the edge, the easier it is to extricate the ice creams, water ices and puddings without breaking. Meters and gauges. Although most housewives and nearly all cooks, not professional, hold scientific instruments in aversion, those for milk, spirit, sugar and heat will be often are employed if once tried without prejudice. The saccharometer shows the degree of sweetness of sugar syrup in any dilution by water, and will serve to test similar liquids. The lectorometer answers for the same, and in testing the water in milk. The thermometer is more commonly known and used. The aerometer tests the density of syrups, etc. Ice and snow. Artificial ice is usually frozen so solidly that it has not the air bubbles caught in it as in that naturally produced. It is not so good as the latter. Snow is good, and after pressing together and adding water, it will be broken ice for the freezing mixture with rock salt. Sea salt is better than rock salt, while the fine is nearly useless as it melts ice too quickly. Coarse kitchen salt can be used. The salt should be crushed into pea-sized lumps. Equal parts of ice and salt is the ice cream maker's mixture. In making biscuit glacé, more salt is used. End of section 2. Recording by phone. Section 3 of the Book of Isis Ice Beverages, Ice Creams and Isis. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Betty B. The Book of Isis, Ice Beverages, Ice Creams and Isis by Mrs. H. Llewellyn-Williams. Materials for Ice Creams and Water Isis. Milk and Cream. For cheap ice creams, milk is frequently used. When frozen, it will not stand firm as long as congealed cream. Another deficiency is the custardy taste, which can rarely be disguised, much less concealed by the tricks of the trait, i.e. the mixture of farinas and gelatin. The cream should be the very best, as it is very susceptible to and absorbent of flavors from the feeding of the cows, the dairy vessels, the vicinity of unpleasant odors in the transportation to town, etc. Cream skimmed off the milk after 12 hours standing is called single. After standing for the same period further, double, and this should be used, as it can be worked up into froth without loss. Cream or Philadelphia Isis. These are composed of perfectly fresh cream or milk, few or no eggs, sugar, and various flavors. There is no cooking of the composition as the mixture is technically called. In a china bowl, porcelain-lined pan or glazed dish, put the eggs in yolk or white or whole, and the sugar of the recipe. With the paddle, mix them thoroughly and gradually add the cream or milk. The bain-marie, or any double pan which prevents scorching during boiling, is to be ready with the water warm in which set the freezer. Pour the mixture into the ladder through a strainer and keep stirring it with the paddle until it runs no more. Take out the freezer and stand in cold water. Now pour in the flavoring. Never cook fruit flavors with the cream. Those who fear to put a pinch of salt in to correct the flat taste of the milk may substitute a little grated lemon peel. As the faintest taste of burning or over-boiling will come out, take particular care in boiling. Get the fire ready and clear. The moment the mixture works smooth, remove it at once. Pour into the glazed dish containing the flavor and cover with muslin or paper, if the perfume or flavor is evanescent. Eggs. Eggs should be fresh. Candle each to perceive the state and break each separately so that a bad one may not taint the rest. Test also by smelling, and in winter, taste for that straw-y flavor which must cause rejection of the suspicious specimens. When eggs are used in preference to cream, more sugar is required in the proportion of one pound to two dozen eggs. Sugar. Sometimes home-powdered granulated sugar is used, but commonly the best and most finely powdered is demanded by the recipe. If what you get is doubtful, powder the finest granulated sort in the mortar. By using syrup, particularly in fruit ices, sugar to water, by weight one part to two, dissolved cold, the finest of the powder does not matter. In very hot weather, an excess of sugar delays the freezing. Standard proportion of cream to sugar is one quart to half a pound. Terms in sugar boiling. A rule till it balls, an expression to show a stage in sugar boiling, when the boiling stuff touched with a wet stick, or the finger dipped in ice water, is found so tough and yet yielding under cold water as to roll up into a ball. The crack. When the boiling sugar cooled, will crack if bitten, and yet be clinging enough to resist a little. A stage beyond the pulling point in taffy making. Caramel. The seventh stage in sugar boiling is described under the name coloring, which see. Fruit. So-called fruit flavorings and essences are used by the unscrupulous, but the real fruit is preferred by the connoisseur. On the ripeness depends the flavor, as fruit, once ripe, turns the point and begins to decay. But if it is immature, the acidity will tend to prevent firmness in the ices. In this case, use a less quantity. All should be fresh, if the small fruits such as cherries, plums and berries are heated by the season, or the journey, cool by dipping them in water in their basket. Or wash them, so briskly as not to wash away the flavor. Fruit with peel or rind, oranges, lemons, melons, should not only be washed, but brushed, to remove impurities in the tang of the box, paper, sawdust, or other packing. The down should be rubbed off peaches, nectarines, apricots, and their kind. Woody or fibrous oranges and lemons are all but useless. The thin skinned are always best, unripe ones are sharper in the juice, and there is less of it than in mature ones. Lemons always improve where an acid is wanted, with strawberries, bananas, and oranges, for instance. The variations in flavoring power of small, unripe fruit, as compared to mature fruit, should be worn in mind. Sugar will correct acidity, but too much sugar hinders freezing, while too little makes water ices granulated. When ices are too much sugared, they become unctuous. Grass, French glossiers say, if too little, they will be sour, agra. Unripe fruit should be mashed in the sieve, and the pulp put in syrup, i.e. already made, or fresh made of sugar and water, which is better than trying to sweeten the fruit by soaking it in water or syrup, a process which kills the flavor. Flavors. As a little goes a long way of the genuine flavors, these only should be used. They will not be found expensive, if properly used, i.e. sparingly, and only after the mixture has cooled. They are much more effective then. When a quantity of ice creams require various flavors, it saves time to put the latter in glazed pots in a row and pour the composition made plain into them. Almond. Only the paper or thin-shelled variety will serve our purpose. Milk of almonds, as the emulsion is called, is yielded most plentifully by the princess sort. It is made as follows. Ammons, two ounces, sugar, one pound, water, one and one-half pound, juice of two lemons. Lanch the nuts and run them through cold water. Pound them and keep them moist with water, so they will not turn to oil. Put this paste into the syrup of the sugar and water and squeeze in the juice of two lemons. Strain. To avoid the expensive almonds, Orgillette syrup may be used. In this case, less sugar will be wanted. Almond essences and syrups, or noyo, are often used instead. Still less expensive are peach kernels. Caramel. Burn sugar at the seventh degree of boiling, four hundred Fahrenheit. It is bitter in taste, deep brown in color, hence used for coloring and crisp, like taffy, toffee. For cream, it is thinned in water and boiled again into molasses, treacle, till it ceases to candy. It is then bottled and kept quarked. For cheapness, candy, off color, is used instead of sugar. Chocolate. Get the best without flavor and flavor to soup, with vanilla or cinnamon, etc. Cinnamon. Drugists keep finer than the grocers. Get the salon sticks, pound to dust, and sift finely. Use sparingly. Coffee. Mocha is superior to Java. Select the small, rounder beans, roast to a rich brown in a very hot oven. The fresh roasted beans are termed white. The ready ground roasted, black, in-cream flavoring. Filbert. Much the same as hazelnut, noisette, which see among ice creams. Fruit flavors. See each in the recipe for its own ice or cream. Also see pages 15, 16, and 17. Hazelnut. The native is used, but the Spanish filbert is preferable. The Barcelona is not so sweet and is ranker than the English filbert. Madeira nut. Same as the English walnut. Mocha. Mocha. French cooks name for coffee, which see above. Pistachio nut. A small Spanish and Italian nut like a filbert and resembling the almond in taste. The latter is used in its stead. The characteristic green tint is imitated with the greens described in coloring hereafter. Milk of pistachios. Follow the recipe for milk of almonds above. Vanilla and lemon are the most popular flavors. The Mexican varieties of vanilla are best and the frosted beans choicest of them. The extracts and essences are not all reliable. In making vanilla syrup or sugar, an ounce will impregnate a pound. Cut up the bean at the last moment to work into the sugar for the savor. Walnut. Our walnut and hickory nut are used in taffy, but for ice cream the English kind must be taken. The skin is strong and only a few fail to blanch or remove it, yet it is used unblanched sometimes. Fruit flavors. Fresh picked fruit is preferred in general, but canned, tinned fruit, though rather acid as a rule, will answer in quarters or pulp. Jellies and jams of homemade will supply a flavor, but they must be heightened by essences. The French fruit syrups are reliable, but often are so spiritous that they delay the freezing. In this case, add them at the last stage of the freezing. French fruit juice. Make a pulp of select fruit, squeeze it out through a fine sieve into a bottle, filling it to the shoulder. Cork tight and fasten the cork with wire. Put in a vessel of boiling water and boil for half an hour. Let the cooling take place in the water and then cork. Wax the corks, keep cool in the dark, when opened use instantly. On account of the acidity, never cook with the creams. Take sugar and make a syrup, which is to be stirred into the chilled cream, or beaten in after the freezing. Fruit juice is the foundation of water, ice, and sorbets. Apple. Do not peel but quarter and slice, letting the pieces fall into water to prevent discoloration. Chop and pulp up, straining out the juice quickly to be mixed with sugar or syrup. Bananas. Heal mash and strain without delay. As bananas alone are tame and mawkish, lemon juice is used to improve the flavor. Cherry. Stones some of the largest, richest kinds, bruise up to a pulp in which mix some of the kernels of the stones, pounded so as to get the characteristic saver. Allow this to stand for a while, then stir again and strain. Rape. Avoid bruising the stones and braying the fruit in the mortar. Strain and blend with sugar to make a syrup. White grapes require color, purples, none. Lemons. Foreign cooks pervert the leventine and African. Nevertheless, Florida or California lemons can successfully compete with these. Choose on account of the thinness and smoothness of the skin. The weight or heft implies plenty of juice. The rind and seeds contain bitterness to be avoided unless wanted for a zest. When this peculiar flavor is wanted, rub off the aromatic oil in a handful of granulated sugar or upon pieces of lumped sugar. Then dissolve the sugar in cold water to make a syrup. If the fruit is wanted, hair off the inmost filmy envelope, quarter and extract seeds and pith. Crush, strain, and in the juice dissolve the sugar. When strained again it is ready for use. Some slice the fruit very thin and smother in the sugar. Nectarines. Peel, stone, mash. They need lemon flavoring. Oranges. The English prefer the Mediterranean kind, others the West Indian, but the Florida, Red River, or California oranges will suffice even for the Epicures. Choose the same as lemons and treat similarly. They require a dash of lemon juice. Peach. The white fleshed peach is preferred to the yellow, as they will spoil very easily, work quickly. Chop and pulp. Strain, mix with sugar or syrup in a glass jar. Keep on ice covered until wanted. Some of the kernels bruised give enhanced savor. Pineapple. Have the finest. Be careful about cutting off the rind and cutting out the core. Mash into sugar, use at once. Plum. Save some of the stones to improve the flavor by making a syrup of their kernels, broken and bruised in sugar. Mash the fruit, etc. Raspberry. Select large ripe clean fresh picked berries. Press them out in a coarse cloth. Let the juice stand a short time. Strain, sugar to taste, strain again and use it once. A little current or lemon juice will improve this. Red currents. In mashing avoid breaking the seeds. Strawberries. Choose the largest and reddest among the ripe fresh gathered berries. Hulp with a potato masher in a little water. Let the hole stand for a couple of hours and then run it through a strainer. Bottle and expose uncorked to the air or put in an oven or before the fire for a while. Cool. It is better to use it immediately. Coloring for Isis and creams. For creams, beverages, ornamental pieces and especially for fruit Isis, the natural colors of the fruits have to be heightened or deepened. The color should be the harmless vegetable ones that are obtainable at confectioner's supply stores or drugists. For amber or gold, see gold. Blue, indigo is rubbed in water. Brown, caramel sugar, which see above. Carnation, see pink. Gold, bright, turmeric dissolved in unscented alcohol. Mirror gold flowers. Green, vervegetal or green carmine. Also spinach, green made from the leaves, mashed, strained, oiled to a jelly, dried and worked into a paste. Again with fine sugar. For leaves in decoration and pistachio nut cream, pink or red. Red sanders and alcohol. Rose, carmine. The freezing operation. The freezer, taken out of its pail, receives the composition to be frozen. This is previously chilled as it might curdle or become granulated, if frozen while warm. In any way, warmth delays the congealing. On the bottom of the pail, put a flat piece of ice, two inches thick, which to rest the freezer. Set the freezer in the pail with the cover on it. Pack ice mixed in equal quantities with salt all around it. Pressing the mixture down with the beater until it comes up to the edge. Protect the pail from the warmer outer air by wrapping it with old towels, cloths, rag carpet or the like. Wipe the freezer with the towel and keep it spinning around steadily until the water melted out of the ice begins to rise. Or in a crank machine until the working is hard. Uncover the freezer and with the paddle, scrape off the frozen flakes just forming and beat them thoroughly into one mass. Close up carefully without allowing any of the salted ice to drop inside. Resume the turning and so continue until the ice water again rises. Run off the brine through the plug hole and use it to saturate the pail wrappers. Fill up again with ice and salt. After a few minutes turning, uncover and once more detach the frozen patches and beat them into the mass as before. Press continue until the whole composition has become of even consistency through the action of the cold. In working it smooth with the paddle, leave off with the rounding of the top from all the sides toward the middle. When completely frozen, cover tightly and let it stand to ripen as the term goes. Draw the excess water whenever it reaches the top, replace with ice and salt, sponge off the freezer, cover the ice with the towel or woolen cloth and cover the freezer with a white one, cotton linen or flannel. Water ices lose their coldness much sooner than ice creams and so must be better protected from warmth and evaporation. To prevent the inconveniences of haste, ices to be eaten in the evening should be frozen early in the afternoon and those for noon be times in the morning after preparation of the ingredients overnight when fresh fruit is not to be used. When thus waiting, the freezer should be looked to every half hour. And a few turns given, a hard crust is likely to form around the freezer, inside at the top, which must be removed. The composition may require a little manipulation to keep it smooth and uniform. When any cream or ices left beyond the demand, dip the freezer in water to make it turn out nicely and pour what is left into porcelain lined pans. These resists the acids in the fruits, store in a cool place to be used again. The French call this refreshing the composition. ices and creams in quantity. As a large hand-worked freezer would be troublesome, a quantity is repeatedly made in an ordinary sized one and then transferred to a sufficiently large container, which is kept cool in a vessel of ice and salt until the ice or cream is wanted. In case of accident, should the ice or salt water spill into the mixture, take out the freezer at once, scoop out the foreign stuff, smooth over the gap and wipe the freezer inside. Pour in pure water several times and sop it out, removing the upper crust as any water left in would turn to ice and spoil the cream. It does not so much affect water ices. End of Section 3. Section 4 of the book of ices, ice beverages, ice creams, and ices. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Betty B. The Book of ices, ice beverages, ice creams, and ices by Mrs. H. Llewellyn-Williams. Ice creams. Philadelphia ice cream. Without cooking the composition, it is put into a freezer and beaten during the freezing. It increases in amount. All the recipes for Neapolitan ice creams hold good for this style, except that the foreign style requires eggs or more of them and more sugar. They are more firm and unctuous and less creamy and light. See the special individual directions for each sort. With cooked cream. Boil the cream in the double boiler, frequently stirring until the outer water boils. Remove and sift in the sugar and sometimes the flavoring. Stir until the sugar has melted and let it rest for several minutes before straining. Cool and then place in the freezer and freeze. The flavoring is often best added at the finish of the freezing. Neapolitan ice cream. Under this title, the recipes of all foreign ice creams are given. Some use whole eggs, others only the yelks, which perhaps one white to five of the yelks. In either case, beat the number stated in the recipe to a smooth stiff cream. Add the sugar by sifting it in. Or if as commonly in the syrup form beat again, strain and whisk up the whole into the firmest of frosts. Mix with the cream and lastly introduce the flavoring. The boiling is to be done over a smart fire with continual stirring until it thickens beyond the running point. Unboiled cream may turn the other seldom curdles when taken off strain into a glazed dish covered to keep the dust out and allow to cool. When cool put into the freezer, which should then be set into its ice pail and packed closely with ice and salt as before directed. Let it stand with the lid off but covered with muslin until ice cold. Freeze. Refer to the freezing operation. The Neapolitan or Italian style differs from the French only in being rather less of an ice cream than a frozen custard and milk is more often used for the cheap popular supply than cream. A la Ren. A la Regina. For this French and Italian ice cream in which cake crumbs are used, see among biscuits glossay. Almond burnt ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of egg six. White of egg one. Lemon peel grated a pinch. Burn almonds two ounces. Burn the blanched almonds in a roaster in the oven or in a pipkin of earthenware or iron over the fire until of a golden brown tint. Pound them fine with a little cream and some of the sugar and put it all into the cream before straining the mixture. Another way is to boil the unskinned nuts with enough of the sugar to make a hard cake when cooled which can be powdered and sifted fine. Add this paste or powder to the cream then boil and freeze. To strengthen the burnt flavor and give a nice color caramel sugar is used. See caramel in colorings. Aniseed or anise set ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of eggs six. White of egg one. Anise set cordial two wine glass falls. Instead of this an infusion of aniseed may be made in hot syrup and strained tasting to keep the flavor in bounds. The cordial is poured in and mixed to the final state of the freezing. Apple baked ice cream. Instead of the mashed raw apple used for apple ice cream. Use the pulp of baked apples rubbed through a sieve flavor with nutmeg cloves or cinnamon or any two or all three. Bay ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of eggs six. White of egg one. Lemon peel etc. Lemon peel grated just by way of a relish and bay leaves for sufficient flavor. An infusion of the latter is put warm into the cream when done. Bisc ice cream. See biscuits glossay. Boston brown bread ice cream. See biscuits glossay. Butter ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of eggs six. White of eggs two. Unsalted butter two ounces. Grated lemon peel instead of a pinch of salt. The butter must be very fresh i.e. with the salt washed out of it. When the cream is cooked to nearly cold work the butter up with it by degrees in a glazed pan till the union is complete. If the cream were too warm it would melt the butter and they would separate. It is thought an improvement by some to mix with the butter the same amount of milk of almonds or of other nuts pounded into a paste with a little cream. The primrose color is obtained from carrot or marigold flower juice or the gold coloring described page 19. Caramel ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of eggs six. White of egg one. Burnt praline. Orange flowers one heaped tablespoon full. Sugar for the caramel three heaped tablespoon fulls. Make the caramel as described under coloring. When it is at the proper hue put in the burnt candied flowers stirring a little. Take off the fire pour a little cream on it to liquefy it and put it into the cooked cream. Instead of orange flowers vanilla or other flavor can be used. Serve with whipped cream which see later if light. Chocolate ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of eggs six. White of egg one. Vanilla chocolate five or six ounces. Grated lemon peel instead of a pinch of salt. Scrape or shave the chocolate as fine as possible. Make a smooth paste of it with warm milk and put this with the eggs and sugar. If cinnamon or other flavor desired is not in the chocolate add it. Chocolate caramel ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of eggs six. White of egg one. Caramel chocolate one full tablespoon full. The flavors added after the cream is frozen. It is made of chocolate in syrup heated to the caramel stage of 400 Fahrenheit. On the point of serving trim with whipped cream which see later. Citron ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Yolks of eggs six. White of egg one. Citrone peel one pound. Make the same as other fruit ice creams. Coffee ice cream. Cream one quart. Sugar three quarter pound. Eggs six to eight or one white and six yelks. Coffee two ounces in powder or one and one half pint strong coffee. Grated lemon peel instead of a pinch of salt. Put the cream or milk, eggs and sugar in a lined dish in the custard boiler and bring to a boil. Then throw in the powdered coffee stirring to mix intimately until it thickens. Then cover and let it infuse for five or ten minutes. Take it out of the water bath and let it stand uncovered in a warm place to settle while making the cream as usual. Instead of the proper boiler and ordinary pan over a good fire may be used and covered when the coffee is put in at the boiling point. In the same way as before directed pour into a glazed earthen or china dish and cover close before mixing with the cream. Serve with whipped cream as finish. This is called we repeat black coffee. The white coffee is when the whole coffee beans are used and the taste and color are not so strong. Corn Indian ice cream. Mix with a quart of custard or cream hot the same quantity of cold baked maze meal. White or yellow pudding and forced through the strainer. A sweet pudding will need no more sugar or very little flavor with your choice and with cinnamon nutmeg or ginger serve after freezing with whipped cream. Cream and fruit. Simply the pulp of fruit mixed with cream a pint to a quart of the ladder and the mixture frozen. Creme blanche see white ice cream custard frozen the same as vanilla ice cream which see instead of the vanilla flavor choose another to taste. Take we say disguised ice cream the same as hot ice cream kisses which see delicacy cream one quart sugar three quarter pound yelks of eggs six whites of eggs to vanilla if this is the flavor chosen one ounce with sugar. Make the cream as usual and freeze. Dissolve the sugar and boil it to the balling point. Bull see sugar boiling or this into the white of one egg frost up and continue to beat the whole until cold enough to be carefully added to the frozen composition. The other flavors as butter coffee maraschino orange flower pistachio etc are imparted in the same way. Filbert ice cream cream one quart sugar three quarter pound yelks of eggs five or six white of egg one shelled filbert's four ounces blanche the nuts and roast them a deep brown in an oven rub them to remove the oil exuding and bray them in the mortar with a little cream and sugar until they become a smooth paste. Mix this with the cream and cook cool and freeze without straining if not a good color tint with caramel. Four flowers catra Fleur ice cream cream one quart sugar three quarter pound yelks of eggs six white of egg one orange flowers jasmine of each a pinch. John calls pinks a little less than a pinch infuse the flowers in the warm cream when it is taken off the fire after being cooked for spices catra a piece ice cream cream one quart sugar three quarter pound yelks of eggs. Six white of egg one ground cinnamon clove and nutmeg a pinch of each make as usual and work in the flavor toward the finish fromage glass a ice cheese. See biscuits glass a frozen custard see custard frozen frozen froth mousse whipped cream frozen without stirring during the congliation presents a novel appearance for serving with ice cream or ice is of a different color as the composition so pleasingly very in texture. Fruit ice cream crystallized iced or candied cream one quart sugar three quarter pound lanched nuts two ounces three or more kinds candied fruit each two ounces. The nuts may be almonds pistachios or commoner ones. The fruits may be chosen from among the French Glossé or crystallized cherries apricots dwarf oranges, chinois, plums, etc. or homemade preserves drain them of syrup chop up small smother and sugar and before serving stir them in if too sweet use a little lemon juice see also frozen fruit. Hazelnut ice cream cream one quart sugar three quarter pound yelks of eggs six white of egg one shelled hazelnuts same as American Philberts four ounces. Blanch the nuts and roast them a deep brown in an oven rub off any oil brought out upon them and break them in the mortar with a little cream and sugar into a smooth paste called milk. Mix this with the cream and cook cool and freeze without straining. If the color is pale deep in with caramel hollow pin ice cream ornament a Neapolitan ice cream when about to serve with pieces of vanilla biscuit inserted lemon ice cream cream one quart yelks of egg six white of egg one sugar three quarters to one pound. Juice of four lemons juice of one orange rated peel of three lemons mix the lemon and orange juice and add some of the sugar boil in a glazed pan strain into a china bowl to let it cool on ice adding the peel. Let this rest an hour before freezing in the meanwhile cook the cream eggs and sugar as before directed and after freezing this composition add the syrup and finish freezing. Three or four whole eggs may replace the above six yelks and one white lemon essence is often used instead of fruit or all fruit is used in strained pulp added after freezing. Massadwan see the several kinds under separate articles thus entitled maraschino ice cream cream one quart sugar three quarter pound yelks of egg six white of egg one maraschino maraschino two wine glass bowls. This cordial has a cherry flavor and consequently may be imitated with that fruit in syrup mixed ice creams the sorbetty misty of the Italians and very on variety of the French ice cream makers pleasing combinations for I am palette are made by placing in contrast in one dish or glass or in bar served in paper envelopes. Not only two or more kinds of water ices or ice creams but an ice or two with an ice cream or two the national colors are thus easily displayed. The simplest and commonest are lemon or strawberry water ice and vanilla ice cream put in a glass or dish beside each other or one above the other when frozen in bars or slabs of alternating colors. They are called Harlequin's rainbows, etc. Harlequin ice cream as the well known Roman hero of pantomime is a man of motley a medley of different colored ice creams was properly named after his coat of many colors. The colors are alternated by shades one light between two dark and then by colors. A further variety is gained by mixing ice creams with water ices. When not served in glasses, the Harlequin's are frozen in bars usually striped across the narrow way, but this is not a rigid rule. Hokey Pokey is a simple cheap Harlequin ice cream or water ice. Josephine, have your freezer ready in its packed pail and put in half vanilla ice cream and half lemon ice cream or water ice. Mix well and freeze in union. Named in honor of Empress Josephine of the French. Marie Louise, into the freezer put one part of vanilla ice cream to three parts of strawberry water ice or ice cream. Named in honor of the Archduchess Marie Louise, the second wife of Napoleon I. Noisette ice cream. Cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yelks of egg six, white of egg one, hazelnuts shelled three ounces, lemon peel grated instead of a pinch of salt. Blanch the nuts and pound them very fine. Then the emulsion with half a pint of the cream to make milk of hazelnuts with the remaining cream make the composition cook and combine the two when the ladder is cooled freeze. Noyo ice cream. Noyo is a liqueur or flavor made from the kernels of peaches, apricots, etc. If not obtainable for this flavoring made by pounding up three or four ounces of blanched peach kernels with a little cream and sugar and put the paste thus made into the ice cream. Orange ice cream. Cream one quart sugar one pound, yelks of eggs eight, juice of eight oranges, grated lemon peel instead of salt, a pinch. Instead of the orange juice, orange jelly may be used. One quart if good, fortify with the juice of two lemons. Cook the cream mixed with half the sugar and put this mixture cooled in the freezer ready for freezing. Put the rest of the sugar into the fruit juice with some grated orange peel and stir into a syrup while boiling. Take off strain and cool on ice before adding to the cream. Freeze all. Orange flower ice cream. Cream one quart sugar one pound, yelks of eggs six, white of egg one, orange flower water one half ounce. Make the cream sugar and eggs into the composition as before directed cool and frozen. Add the flavoring at the finish and finally freeze a little more. As the imparted orange flower water is expensive, you can make it home the following substitute. With four or five drops of oil of neroli in a quart of water, corrected with half a teaspoon full of carbonate of Magnesia, orange flower water for flavoring is inexpensively made. This is used in Orgiat ice cream, the following recipe. Orgiat ice cream. Cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yelks of eggs six, white of egg one, orange flower water one half ounce. White of egg one, blanched almonds three ounces, bitter almonds one ounce to flavor, orange flower water one half ounce. The true Orgiat barley syrup is made of barley sugar, almonds and water. Color a pale green. Make the cream and add the milk of almonds strained before freezing as in the process of making water ices. Part three, page 40. Pineapple ice cream, Philadelphia. Cream one quart sugar one pound. Pineapple pulp one quarter pound or one pint of juice, juice of two oranges, juice of one lemon. Prepare the pulp, add the other juice and sugar, make a syrup and strain. Add this to the cream when frozen and freeze to the finish. With four whole eggs or five yelks and one white, the same will be a Neapolitan pineapple ice cream. Pistachio ice cream, cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yelks of egg six, white of egg one, pistachio nut shelled three ounces. Lemon peel grated instead of salt, a pinch. Blanch the nuts, wash and grind them into a fine paste. If dry, work up a little cream or rose water. Add cold to the cooked cream. Run through a sieve diluting the last portion if slow to flow. Substitute almonds for the pistachios and use essence of almonds to strengthen the flavor. If expense is a consideration, vanilla flavor may be used. Color a delicate green. Cherry cordial, Kirschensfasser is sometimes the dash. Another way is to use Orchillette syrup two to four ounces according to strength instead of the nuts. The plain pistachio or almond ice cream has neither extra flavoring nor coloring. Merely the nut paste. Riviera's ice cream, cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, eggs six, pistachio nuts in paste two ounces, vanilla one pinch, candied peel one quarter pound, burnt orange flowers two ounces, burnt violets two ounces. Make the ice cream as usual. Slice up the blanched nuts and the peel finely and put them with the burnt flowers into the cream when it is nearly frozen. As the whole of the eggs are used, be careful in cooking, less thickening takes place too rapidly. Roman ice cream, a la romaine. Cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yawks of eggs six, white of egg one, whipped cream one third quart, citron two ounces, brown mace, one half teaspoon full, orange flower water 12 drops. Make as before directed. The whipped cream is to be added when the freezing is done. Rose ice cream, cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, extract rose one teaspoon full. Rose water may be used. Four or five drops of real auto of roses in a quart of water will make it deep in the tent with carmine and use a gill. Flavor the cream before boiling, cook and freeze as usual. Rose water ice cream, cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yawks of eggs six, white of egg one, rose water one gill. Make the composition as before directed and put in the flavor at the final freezing. If found too sweet and unctuous, try less sugar next time. Strawberry crushed ice cream, cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, eggs two, mix and stir on the fire while cooking to the boiling point. Strain through a hair sieve into a bowl to cool. When cool, put into the freezer and freeze. Have ready one quart of cleaned fresh ripe strawberries, mash in six ounces of powdered sugar and add this pulp to the frozen cream. Some dash the fruit with a little lemon juice, finish freezing. Tea ice cream, the model for our liqueur, cordial and wine ice cream. Cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yawks of eggs six, white of egg one, liqueur de thé, tea cordial, two wine glasses. The fresh tea flavoring is obtained by infusing two teaspoon fulls of the leaf in warm cream for five minutes and running through the hair sieve. If the liqueur is used, it is added at the finish of the freezing. Vanilla ice cream, cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yawks of eggs six, white of egg one, vanilla one quarter stick, lemon peel one pinch. Vanilla sugar or syrup may be used instead of the bean or stick. Proceed as in other creams. The Philadelphia style excludes the eggs. Variety, very old ice cream, cream one quart sugar three quarter pound, yawks of eggs six, white of egg one, grated lemon peel two ounces, vanilla powdered one pinch. Sliced blanched nuts, preserved cherries, preserved apricots, preserved citron, all minced or sliced thin of each a half ounce. The finely sliced fruit and nuts are added to the frozen cream just before the freezing operation is finished. This is of the Maceduan or composite fruit and ice cream style, which see whipped cream. If the cream is not double C cream, it will not froth up without deposit. Use a large shallow bowl, set in ice and whisk into a stiff firm froth. Skim and put the skimmings into a sieve to drain. Put what comes through back into the bowl and beat up again, and thus continue until all is beaten up. To each quart of cream, allow a half pound of fine powdered sugar, or confectioners red sugar, may be sprinkled on the unsweetened cream. This is used for dressing, finishing off filling and sauce. White ice cream, creme blanche, cream one quart, sugar three quarter pound, yawks of eggs four, white of egg one, grated lemon peel to cover a dime. Make the cream as directed, putting the white with the yawk, or better, whipping both into a froth with a little of the sugar added when almost done. The rest of the sugar is mixed in well when the freezing is nearly finished. This is a good body for mixture with the strongly flavored mixed ice creams, which see the true white cream, or creme blanche, is the Philadelphia ice cream to which refer. End of section four. Section five of the book of ices, ice beverages, ice creams and ices. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org, recording by David Bokoudi. Part three, water ices. Water ices are distinguished from ice creams by the absence of cream and eggs. The French call them glace aux fruits à l'eau, fruit water ices, or fruit flavored ices. Another name is granite, an allusion to their gritty, stony, or granulated taste and hardness, to which the unappreciative object. For them are therefore made unctuous and smooth ices by using an undue proportion of sugar. When ices are perfection, the composition resembles hard snow or sleet, sweetened, perfumed and flavored. The components are water, fruit juices, cordials and wines and sugar. The freezing is done in the ice cream freezer. The same admixture of half and half broken ice and salt is used. Although hard as crystal, water ices will melt quickly, even in the mouth of the freezer. When they are to be eaten alone, they should be more rich with fruit juice and sugar than when served with ice cream. They can be made so plain as to be merely frozen sweet water. In the kinds where it is not desirable that the ice should present a clear, transparent look, one white of egg to a quart of the frozen composition, well beaten up in a teaspoon full of powdered sugar may be added, as for kisses, meringues, which see the process of making water ices. Unless you have your syrup ready, make it by boiling the sugar and water skimming to clear. Strain while hot, through a fine sieve or a doubled gauze cloth, and allow to cool. The flavor is now added before the fruit juice and other ingredients in the freezer, to which the chilled syrup has been transferred. Pack the freezer in its pail with salted ice as for ice cream freezing. Cover and fasten the lid hermetically with a greased cloth. The turning to freeze takes longer than for ice cream by 15 or 20 minutes. To ripen, let it rest for 2 or 3 hours before sending into the table. Frapper is to partially freeze like snow as compared with sleep. Thus are treated wines, absinthe, and some of the ices. The syrups for different fruits vary according to the firmness of their flesh. Pairs, pines, and the citron sort require a syrup of 18 to 25 degrees by the aerometer. Plums, apricots, nectarines 30 to 42 degrees. Roughly 22 to 25 degrees for one and all. All are made by dissolving the sugar and water. Fruit jellies may be used instead of fruit syrups when known to be genuine. They are dissolved in hot water and added, cooled, to the mixture in the freezer. When jellies are used, take double the quantity prescribed for syrups. Fruits differ so much in size and juice yielding that experience alone will teach the quantity required. Three or four average lemons or oranges will furnish a gill of juice. One pineapple, a pint, raspberries or strawberries, three pints of pulp to make a pint of juice, and peaches about the same. The canned pulp is usually rather acid. The French fruit and syrup very sweet. Apple water ice. To one quart of water and one pound of sugar add three gills of apple juice or one and one-half pints apple jelly, strain and freeze. Apricot water ice. Select fruit enough to make one-third of a quart of pulp which may have been mashed with a paddle or a silver spoon through a sieve over a china bowl. Add juice of one lemon after working in one to one and a quarter pounds of sugar according to the acidity of the fruit. With one quart of water, unless syrup is used, sugar to water one pound to one quart. After letting this mixture stand for a minute, strain through a sieve and freeze. Tint with carmine and gold colorings, which see shabli, sugar or thick syrup, one pound, strawberry juice, one pint, wine, one or two small wine glasses. Mix the sugar or syrup and the fruit juice, which together make about a quart and freeze. The wine is added at the finish of the freezing. Some add to the wine a half gill of Kirchenwasser, cherry water ice, sugar five pounds, water seven pounds, of which make a syrup taking one quart, apricot pulp one quart. Having made the pulp by forcing the mashed fruit through a sieve over a glazed bowl with the paddle or silver spoon, flavor with a little lemon juice and allow to stand a little before straining. Freeze. Some of the kernels of the stones are braided in the mortar, rinsed with some syrup and the whole strained to be added to the nearly frozen mixture to give a flavoring. Citron water ice, osedora. Flavor the syrup composed of one pound of sugar to one quart of water with half a preserved citron, candied citron peel, sliced up or boiled up in it. Peel three lemons and squeeze out the juice, letting it stand for a while before straining and add it to the flavored syrup. Strain again, cool and place in the freezer to be frozen. Current and raspberry water ice, mash the fruit one part raspberry to three of currents through the sieve until you have a pint of juice. Mix this with one pound of sugar dissolved in the juice of half a lemon or with the syrup one pound to one quart of water. Coloring with carmine if it requires a deeper tint. Strain through a sieve into a bowl, cool and pour into the freezer and freeze. If you want to color after the freezing, mix the coloring with a little of the composition and work in smoothly. Grape water ice, grapes to make juice, one pint. Sugar, two pounds. Water, one and a half quarts. Mash the fruit and force through a sieve, mix with the sugar and water dissolved into the syrup. If the grapes are very sweet, temper with juice of half a lemon strained, freeze. If you use white grapes, tint a pale green with spinach green or ver vegetale for which see coloring. Lemon water ice, make a syrup of sugar and water, one quart of the latter to one pound of the former or more to taste the lemon is very sour. Make a half pint of lemon juice and half as much orange juice and mix the two or you may use the same quantity all lemon juice fortifying with lemon essence if needed. Mix the juice with the syrup and let it stand an instant before straining through a sieve, cooling and freezing. Some out of gill of cream but it may give a milky or cloudy look though this is sometimes wanted for effect as compared with a transparent yellow like topaz. Lemon peel is added to the syrup. Maraschino, marasquin, water ice. In one quarter syrup made of sugar, one pound to water, one quart. Mash the inside flesh of two or three lemons, strain as you finish into a bowl to be poured cool into the freezer. When the freezing is nearly completed, put in two wine glasses of maraschino. As this is a cherry cordial, it may be imitated with cherries for which see cherry water ice. Nectarine water ice. Mash the fruit up, the stones being reserved and force the pulp through a sieve. Mix with the syrup made of a quart of water and a pound of sugar in the proportion of three pints of the juice or three gills of the pulp, strain and freeze. Instead of this rare fruit, apples may be used for the foundation and flavor given with nectarine extract. Flavor with the syrup made of soaked bruise stones. Nuayo water ice. Make a fruity foundation say of strawberry juice or pulp mixed with syrup and add a small wine glass full of the cordial after straining and before freezing entirely. It has a peachy flavor. Nutmeg water ice. Warm a little of the syrup as before one pound of sugar in one quart of water and infuse a pinch or two of elderberry flowers according to strength. To this infusion add the rest of the syrup flavored with the juice of a lemon tasting carefully before using all in the freezer. Cool, put in the freezer and freeze. Orange water ice. Flavor the syrup of one and one half pounds of sugar to one quart of water with half an orange. Squeeze in the juice of the other portion of the orange and that of two lemons, strain, cool on ice and put in the freezer to be frozen. Grated orange peel may be added to the syrup before straining. Blood orange water ice. Same as orange water ice with a tinge of red produced by carmine. Properly the orange so named should be used. Parfait amour. Perfect love water ice. The same as citron water ice which see tinted with pink or red. Peach water ice. A pint of the pulp is sieved and worked into the syrup of one to one and a half pounds of sugar to one quart of water which is again strained for the freezer. A dash of lemon juice improves one lemon to a pint of pulp. If a pink tint is wanted use carmine. Peche moscades water ice. The same as peach water ice with a little elderberry juice to give the peculiar flavor nominally nutmeg. Pineapple water ice. Carefully core and pair the pineapples to make a pint of juice. Pound up, strain and place in a syrup made of one pound of sugar to one quart of water. Add lemon and orange juice one part to two to make nearly a gill. One lemon to two oranges. And let the whole stand a little while before straining through a sieve. Put into the freezer and freeze. Plumb water ice. Mash and bruise a pound of stone plums and smother in a pound of sugar. Take ten of the kernels, bruise them and put them in a bag which put in the mixture to flavor it. After twenty minutes pour the water on to dissolve the sugar and wash the flavor farther out of the kernels. Take the ladder out and freeze the composition. Raspberry water ice. Mash enough ripe high colored berries to make three pints of juice which strain upon a pound of sugar. Squeeze in a lemon's juice and put in the freezer to freeze it. Enhance the flavor with raspberry extract and then tint with the red coloring which see. Rum water ice. To a pound of powdered sugar three wine glasses of Jamaica or other fine rum. Syrup may be used for the sugar. Cut off the peel of three lemons carefully so that its taste will not get in and squeeze them straining the juice. Having frozen the syrup and lemon juice mixed in the freezer into firmness. Replenish the salted ice melted away, open the freezer and then insert the rum. If not very strong add another glass or half as much but bear in mind that too much spirit will prevent firm freezing. Strawberry water ice. Mash strawberries to make a pint of juice through the sieve and mix with the syrup one to one and a half pounds of sugar and a quart of water until the sugar if used is dissolved. Flavor the juice of half a lemon with orange juice or orange flower water and add it to the other. Color with carmine, strain and freeze. Wine water ice. Strawberry pulp is run through the sieve where the juice one pint is taken and added to a pint of the syrup. Two or three small wine glasses of fine wine are selected and mixed in and the freezing is then done. Tint with red coloring which see. End of section 5. Recording by David Bocuti. Section 6 of The Book of Ices. Ice beverages, ice creams and ices. This is a LibraVox recording. All LibraVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibraVox.org. Recording by Betty B. The Book of Ices. Ice beverages, ice creams and ices by Mrs. H. Llewellyn-Williams. Ice puddings, etc. Nestle Road iced pudding. This is called Nestle Road. Corruptedly la nasa roll after the Russian Epicure in whose honor it was named. Oil and water enough Italian chestnuts to have two ounces of pulp after pressing through a sieve. Add the same quantity by weight of powdered sugar or strong syrup and work them well together with a paddle. Have ready frozen some orange flower ice cream which see or vanilla ice cream which see and mix the pulp and sugar with it. In the pulp may have been mixed fruit such as raisins, currants, citron and other preserved fruits. Or the fruit may be prepared infused as in the Maceduan which see. This pudding is molded as a set piece decorated and dressed with whipped cream. Often spices are used as cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc. Or wines, spirits, liqueurs. As a garnish use marron, glacé, crystallize or candy chestnuts. Roasted chestnuts are boiled in hot sugar syrup and used to stud the pudding or stud its bottom edges. Iced cabinet pudding. Have two or three kinds of dry crisp cakes of the macaroon or French biscuit sort. Pudding fruits such as sultanas, raisins, currants, imperials, citron, peel, etc. And the materials for ice cream. Take a large pudding mold and build up halfway with alternating layers of cakes and fruit. Having well mixed up six or eight eggs add them to one quart of milk and half as much cream. And warm so as to dissolve half an ounce of gelatin. Nelson's Clarks, etc. the best. And boil the whole. Stir in any flavor desired and strain all into the partly filled mold. Cover and stand to cool. Buried in salted ice or put in the cave for four hours. It will freeze in less time in the freezing pail. Finish with sauce or whipped cream and serve with the same. Frozen rice. Cream one gill, rice or tapioca one half pound. Sugar one ounce. Vanilla bean one inch. Lemon peel grated one pinch. Milk one pint. Boil the rice thoroughly and slowly in the milk. Flavor and when done, take off the fire. Remove the pieces of flavoring and allow to cool. Put in a dish for the table. Smother with the cream. Whipped stiff and set on ice to freeze. Frozen jellies. Gelatin jellies already flavored are now to be had in the stores. In our summers they will hardly set in cold water only. And the freezer or at least a box to hold them and be immersed in ice and salt will be found necessary. If you have to make the jelly. Do so with gelatin and water. One ounce to one ounce. Put in a dish for the table. Smother with the cream whipped stiff and set on ice to freeze. Frozen jellies. One pint. The latter hot to dissolve it. If no gelatin use calves foot jelly. Then add three pints of cold water stirring till all is dissolved. Flavor with the juice of fruit and sugar and color with the colorings described to taste. Pour into molds or glasses and place in the ice. Frozen strawberry jelly. Strawberries one quart. Gelatin one half packet. Sugar one half pound. One lemon. Cover the fruit with the sugar in a bowl and cover the bowl with plain glass to stand in the sun for two hours. The gelatin should be thoroughly soaked for about the same time. Strain the berries which should yield one and one half pints of juice. Put on the fire. Bring to the boiling point and stir in the gelatin with the lemon juice. Strain well. Have two molds ready of the same shape but one to hold but one quart to the others too. Place two crushed ice into the bottom of the two quart mold or jelly to cover it half an inch. Set this mold in the ice to freeze this hard. Then upon this layer set the ice filled mold evenly as regards the center of each and pour in jelly to fill the space between the molds. Place both in the ice box or freezer. When the freezing is complete extract the ice from the inner mold and fill it with warm water to detach it. The hollow thus left with fresh-picked strawberries, very ripe and sweet, cemented in place by the rest of the jelly. Freeze the latter and turn out into a low-glass dish, finished with a pink-whipped cream edging. Fromage glacé, iced cream cheeses, being ice cream molded into various shapes like fancy puddings in metal molds with hinged covers. The small molds are held in one hand while the other fills them, knocking the mold on the table in order that the composition shall settle without any air holes which would show. The better to prevent this defect, the molds are overfilled so as to squeeze firm when the lid is closed. The seam should be sealed with a buttered cloth. The ice can be a little more strongly salted than for ordinary ice cream, but still the fromage need not be too hard. They take about two hours to free sufficiently, but try to time them so they will be done in time for serving. Cover with cloth when buried in the ice to prevent the heat striking through the cover. Colored fromage, coloring is used for effect and is obtained by the varying hues of the ice cream, any fancy and mixtures being allowed. Do not use warm water to free the mold as it is apt to make the composition run, but cold water to receive the mold when lifted out of the ice. If the cream sticks after a gentle tap or two, run a knife into it slantingly and thus get a hole to dislodge it while using the thumb to start it in movement. When turned out, take out the knife and serve the fromage on a folded napkin. Fruit imitated in ice cream. The imitation is rather conventional as the shapes used are the confectioners and tinsmiths ideas of a bunch of grapes, a pear, an apple, etc. The molds are in hinged halves, tin or pewter. Hold in one hand while filling with the spoon or paddle in the other. Tightly close and bury the molds in salted ice to freeze firm. A quart of the composition should fill a dozen molds. When a quantity is to be made, several cooks are better than one, as each attends to one portion of the process. Filling, closing, putting in the freezing mixture, etc. Massadwans, called by the Italians, tutti frutti, all kinds of fruit. Formerly and correctly, only fruit was used with an ice cream or water ice in which the pieces were set. But recently, full freedom is given to mixtures of ices and ice creams, varying in color as well as in flavor. The fruit is often soaked in wines and other alcoholic liquors. Besides candied fruits, candied peels, angelica, ginger, mauve, marshmallow, etc. are introduced. As an innovation, our own nuts may be employed as a change from the everlasting almond. Fruit Massadwan, this differs from a Chateaubriand in having a water ice for foundation and no cream. Cut up some fruit, pears, apricots, plums, etc. and candy them in syrup, if not already crystallized. Commonly, no distinction is made between candying, lassé, and crystallizing icing fruits. But there is a difference. In the former, fruit soaked in sweet syrup is dipped in a very thick sugar syrup and left to dry rapidly and harden in the open air. It is thus coated with a transparent deposit. The same syrup is used for icing or crystallizing. But the fruit is cooled and dried slowly in a warm chamber at 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Soak in a mixture of maraschino and Kirschfosser, two kinds of cherry water, which flavor may be imitated without this process, if preferred. Highly acidulate a little of the syrup with lemon juice, which is to be added only just before the final freezing. When to, the fruit is intermixed with the water ice. It is served in a jelly dish as a set piece or on a napkin. Another message one, take a jelly mold and decorate the inside with whole small candied fruits or portions of the large kinds. Fill up with lemon ice cream or lemon water ice in contrast by its acidity to the sweetness of the fruit and bury the mold in salted ice. On the point of serving, stud and emboss the surface with fruit that has not been frozen, but may have been treated to immersion in some of the liqueurs. This will be in contrast to the other fruit in the ice cream. 2D fruity. Cut up into small pieces, half a dozen kinds of crystallized fruits. Add one portion of nuts to make a pound together. Strew this upon a layer of one quart of water ice in the bottom of a mold. Hack over with the same water ice or another kind. Smooth, close and leave in the salted ice to become very hard. Turn out and serve. Fruit medley massadouin. Very on't. The same as the second massadouin above, except at the juice of three lemons is squeezed into the syrup and frozen. The almonds or pistachio nuts are quartered and all are mingled in the cream or isis. Frozen fruit. Choose ripe fruit and firm so as to be shapely and pleasing when in quarters or cut into dice. Hair and so cut up. Mix with syrup of sugar and water with flavoring desired equal ways of sugar and fruit to water one quart to two pounds of the other two. When the syrup has well saturated the fruit or the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, put into the freezer and freeze. Frozen apricots in custard. Apricots or similar canned fruit, one quart can, tin. Sugar, one pound, water, one quart. Milk and three eggs for a custard. Cut the fruit into dice, mix in the syrup of the sugar and water and freeze. When nearly frozen for the cold, then custard over it. Chateaubriand. Cut up some fruit, fresh, preserved or crystallized and infuse it in corgels if so wished. Make a plain ice cream. See white ice cream with vanilla, almond paste or orzat as flavoring. Put in one cold to give an almond flavor. Freeze this hard and firm. When about to serve, work in half its quantity of sweetened whipped cream. Grain the cut fruit and strew in mixing lightly. The cream may be in a mold, set in ice for the stunning process. Mount in a piece on a confectioner's shape, ice, decorate, etc. 10 or 12 ounces of nuts and various fruits will ornament one quart of ice cream. Iced soufflés. All the water ices will suit iced soufflé making using the fruit choose equally by measure to the ice cream. As the fruit is more or less sweet, the proportion of sugar in the cream is altered. One chateaubriand soufflé. This is an ornamental iced dish in which fruit in portions, halves or quarters, slices or dice chosen for color effect is inserted or applied to the ices or ice creams just before freezing. Two ice cream soufflé. This is practically frozen blanche. Mix one quart of fruit syrup, two pounds of sugar and seven yelks of eggs into a harmonious syrup. Then cool. Add an ounce of melted gelatin and freeze. Whip a quart of cream and beat it into the frozen composition. When firm, fill some ice pudding molds and put into the cave. A tube for two hours. A cave or a tube stove is the utensil used in making biscuits glacé, which see further on. If frozen very hard, it would become the pesaduro of the Italian confectioners serve with sauce or cream. Iced kisses. Marine glacé. In a cold bowl, whisk white of egg until firm and smooth. Gradually sift in and beat in some fine powdered sugar until uniform and fit for molding into shapes which are to hold ices or ice creams. Having molded the composition into the desired shapes, put them into a brick oven to be baked to a buff tint and firm enough for light handling. Remove the soft inside and replacing in the oven baked till dry. They are now kisses or ice cakes. But on there being filled with ice cream or water ice or both mixed or a mixture of either sort in its variety of flavor and color, you have meringue glacé. They were brought out in honor of Napoleon's victory at Meringo. Mering Panache. Variegated. When the filling is varied and modeled or striped. Zebrae. Hot kisses. See among biscuits glossé. Biscuits glossé. These are a kind of egg sherbet made of eggs and sugar with or without whipped cream and variously flavored. They are frozen but not in the ice cream freezer. A special freezing case is used called the A2 stove by the French and by us the cave. At once it freezes the whole quantity for the table. But the portions are held in separate paper cases of various shapes. The cave or freezing box is an oblong rectangular case to take in three rows overlying of the biscuits and is supplied with a deep cover having a border ledge for the enclosure of ice to facilitate the conglulation. They hold from two to five dozen the first size suiting a family. Another shape is round with shelves inside and in this the inner layers are as soon frozen as the top and bottom ones. To keep the biscuits apart above and below movable shelves metal plates slide on a ledge or stand on corner feet. This furthers the freezing. Some fill the cave by pouring the composition into paper cases like muffin rings in size and nature laid on the shelves in the cave which is in the ice box. A better way is to take out the shelves and on each arrange the filled paper cases in order with a strip of metal between each on replacing the shelves. The lowest is put in first and the composition leveled off to prevent touching the shelf above. Some of the shelves have metal components on their top surface in which case they are filled direct and the frozen bricks turned out by dipping them in cold water and reversing them. The ice box contains ice and a little more salt than for ice cream making. Keep it properly drained of the water and full of the freezing mixture. When the cave is filled and covered the ice is spread over its cover too. The freezing takes two hours. Glazing the biscuits. The biscuits have to be glazed. The biscuit glaze is composed of white of one or two eggs whipped to a froth to 25 biscuits and added to a little sugar or syrup. This is white glaze. To make red glaze use a little fruit flavored ice cream or coloring which see to glaze uncover the cave. Take out the upper plate or shelf run a small knife between the biscuits to separate them removing the parting pieces or tongues of metal and one after another dip each biscuit in the glaze without squeezing them out of shape. Smoothly level the glaze all around top and sides with the knife while lightly holding them and replace in the plate. Return into the cave and cover with ice to be ready for serving. When frozen in separate tin cases these are immersed in cold water and the biscuits turned out and inverted on the marble slab where they are dusted with red confectioners sugar and put in paper envelopes to go to table after having been frozen for the finish in the cave. Smooth sized paper or thin glazed cardboard is used about an inch deep. Laced paper frills are supplied with each set to set off the cases. French filling make a syrup of a pound of sugar to a gill of water over the fire and let it cool. Mix in the yawks of six eggs and boil till it thickens. Strain into a dish set in ice and beat until it becomes cold. A la Ren Biscuits Glossé Queen Biscuits Glossé the Italian Sorbeti alla Reggina Almond Biscuits Glossé in the syrup before mentioned mix a paste of almonds and the eggs and beat proceeding as last directed cream one quart sugar three quarter pound yawks of eggs six white of egg one grated lemon peel a pinch pounded French biscuits two ounces hook the cream as usual and when done, put in the dried powdered biscuits much the same as our ladyfingers whip the yawks to a froth in a china bowl set in ice at all but a little of the sugar and beat up until the mass ceases to swell froth up the white firmly sprinkling the rest of the sugar gradually into it until firm and smooth some wait till all is strained into the freezer before adding the powdered biscuit cool and freeze serve in the paper cases bisque this takes its distinguishing name from the flavor put into it cream and sugar one quart to one half pound mixed cooked and cool before being put in the freezer two ounces and all of dried sponge cake macaroons and kisses ice cakes or meringues are powdered and rub through a sieve before being stirred into the frozen ice cream color and flavor Boston brown bread biscuits Glossé make an ice cream composition of one quart of cream and three quarters of a pound of sugar to five or six eggs or one white to five yawks and cook and freeze as usual pound two ounces of the genuine Boston brown bread dried into dust which sift and beat into the ice cream if to be in Philadelphia style omit the eggs fruit preserved biscuits Glossé French biscuits Glossé very old o confitour instead of the pistachios in pistachio biscuits Glossé use iced candied fruits one fourth pound German biscuits Glossé cook six to eight yawks of eggs in a pound of sugar strain into a bowl set on ice and stir and melted gelatin whip up a quart of cream and stir it in cool fill the cases place in the cave and freeze dress with a fruit cream or water ice and glaze hot kisses meringue Oh four kisses from the oven said to be a Japanese or Chinese invention any dextrous cook can manage it make a stiff white froth with six to eight whites of eggs in a pound of powdered sugar a meringue paste mold this into shells as the shapes are called and fill these with ice cream and place on a wetted board or tin plate in a very hot oven in 15 seconds the crush should cook a pale brown without the ices having melted even an ordinary oven might be successful or try a hot salamander or shovel macaroon biscuits Glossé cream one quart sugar one pound yawks of eggs eight whites of eggs two macaroons one half pound make is for ice cream the mixture of cream eggs and sugar and cook freeze as usual and at the finish at the cake powdered and any flavoring after the same manner make bitter macaroon biscuits Glossé same weight of macaroons is before flavor with bitter almonds maraschino biscuits Glossé follow the directions for vanilla biscuits Glossé flavoring with maraschino no yo biscuits Glossé same as vanilla biscuits Glossé with no yo flavoring orange flower biscuits Glossé made in the same manner as vanilla biscuits Glossé with the change in the flavor indicated by the name a wine glass full of the orange flower cordial will not be too much pistachio biscuits Glossé very old opistach proceed as for the vanilla biscuits Glossé and mincing the blanched nuts very finely and lightly add them to the composition Royal Royal biscuits Glossé whites of eggs five sugar one pound whipped cream one quart maraschino two wine glasses into a pan with a little water to dissolve it put the sugar and bring it to the boiling point. Meanwhile whip the whites to a froth. If the sugar is already boiling take it off and cover with a damp cloth or sprinkle a little sugar on it to prevent a crust forming which would crystallize in your composition. The froth being stiff pour it into the serve gradually stirring with a paddle until all is in and it is cool. This may be quickened by setting the vessel in ice sweetened two quarts of whipped cream with two pounds of sugar stirring it to keep it from falling to the bottom. Add this to the other and to them the maraschino vanilla biscuits Glossé material for 25 biscuits Yolks of eggs four to five syrup one quart whipped cream three quarter quart powdered vanilla to flavor instead of syrup it can be made with sugar and water dilute the yolks with the syrup in a pan put over a low fire or in a farina boiler better keep stirring until the mixture coats the paddle as in cooking the cream for ice cream take off the fire pour through the sieve into a porous unglazed pan kept expressly for this purpose set this in the ice whip the composition with a white wood whisk until thoroughly frothed and firm sweetened the whipped cream and put in the vanilla mix it lightly and pour the composition into the cases to be put into the cave end of section six section seven of the book of Isis ice beverages ice creams and Isis this is a Libra Vox recording a Libra Vox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit Libra Vox.org recording by Betty B the book of Isis ice beverages ice creams and Isis by Mrs. H. Llewellyn Williams iced beverages part one ice water in decanters carafe frappe frappe French is to freeze and carafe is a decanter in which water is sent to table in Europe frozen within instead of ice being inserted the American double ice pitcher is not known abroad the ice is prepared in a pail with less salt than for ice cream making and the decanters are buried only to two thirds the ice then forms at the bottom first and the displaced water rises otherwise the glass is apt to break wine and bottles is similarly frappe or chilled uncork and leave in the ice for 10 minutes absinthe absinthe one half wine glass full gum gum Arabic syrup one tablespoon full water one wine glass full shake up the ingredients in a large glass with some crushed or shaved ice iced barber rod makes equal parts of coffee and milk and chocolate and freeze in the freezer to the consistency light iced bavouas bavouas are a warm or cold beverage for any time made of a tea like infusion sweetened always with capillary syrup originally made in here fern commonly known as orange flower flavor a almond sweetened milk with or without tea according to taste with or jet syrup and freeze B chocolate make a thin cup of chocolate with milk or cream and freeze see Greek style squeeze out of fully ripe strawberries the juice of which add one part to two of lemon juice and water to make a drink of it sweetened with sugar or fancy syrup cool and serve D or jet barley water prepare or jet with boiling water or pour upon one part of fresh or jet in a decanter six parts of water and cool in the ice pail E or jet and milk to the or jet last directed at the same quantity of milk Bishop see cold punch iced claret cup the model for cups use a bowl or three persons mix claret or any other wine preferred one pint brandy one gill curacao one gill juice of lemons to syrup flavored one half wine glass water one gill sugar to taste the syrup has a fruit or other flavor and a slice or two of lemon orange or lime is floated in the bowl freeze a little or put a block of clear ice in the bowl club claret cup sugar three tablespoon falls claret one quart lemons juice of two club soda one bottle red curacao one sherry glass full cucumber slices several half fill a pitcher with fine broken ice stir in all the above ingredients except the claret which is to be poured in last stir again and garnish each glass with mint and strawberries or other decorative fruit iced cobbler whiskey or sherry two wine glass falls sugar two tablespoon falls syrup flavored a little water one wine glass full make a syrup of the sugar in the water stir that with the fruit syrup current raspberry et cetera and add the spirits fill up with ice and shake well or freeze a little after stirring this is imbibed with straws like juleps claret the home wines or champagne can be used iced brandy cocktail or into a tumbler containing fresh mint and a squeeze of lemon peel some brandy and crushed ice and shake well coffee frozen called in French cafe mousse IE frothed or foaming coffee or cafe frappé à la glace iced or chilled coffee sweetened coffee with syrup one half pound sugar to one quart water and one white of egg mixed put into the freezer and freeze broth up for 10 minutes and serve cold punch Bishop white wine one quart sugar two thirds pound Kirsch Vasser one wine glass full one lemon cut in slices mix all together and frappé chill or more thoroughly freeze the white wine may be shabby or champagne or a red wine as Bordeaux may be used and cognac may be substituted for Kirsch Vasser in this case dash with a little maraschino before freezing cremolata or crepe on a a frappé or half congealed beverage to which fruity or floral flavor and perfume are given the packing for the freezer is less salty than for ice cream making take the lemonade orangeade or whatever the liquor is and put it into the freezer and as with one hand you turn the freezer with the other holding the paddle you detach the freezing formations until you have the mass partly frozen like snow and water all the fruit syrup flavors are used in this way crepe on a C cremolata above iced Krusta brandy one half wine glass full sugar one teaspoon full lemon one half slice the peeled half lemon very thinly smother each piece and powdered sugar and cover the bottom of a champagne glass with them put in some cracked ice pour on gently the brandy whiskey gin et cetera as the case may be flavor with lemon juice and orange bitters stir freeze till there are little congealed patches on the sides of the glass and serve frozen eggnog eggs six brandy one quart sugar one pound rum half pint milk three quarter gallon beat the eggs and sugar thoroughly and place with the other ingredients in large punch bowl to be well mixed freeze in the ice box ornament with red and white sugar sprinkle with nutmeg and serve iced fires spirits brandy whiskey et cetera one wine glass full sugar one tablespoon full syrup flavored juice of one lemon in a large glass stir the ingredients mentioned after filling nearly full with ice deck with a strawberry or two slices of fruit et cetera this is drunk through straws like a Jewel of iced fizz properly speaking fizz is champagne but the name is applied to effort vesting drinks whiskey one wine glass full sugar one tablespoon full juice one half lemon seltzer water one bottle mix the sugar lemon juice and spirits in a large glass add some crushed ice fill up with seltzer water strain quickly and serve iced flip brandy two wine glass fulls egg one sugar one tablespoon full syrup flavored one tablespoon full in a large glass put the above and fill up with cracked ice shake well and strain before serving the flavor is a fruit or vanilla and grated nutmeg may be the finish iced Julep brandy one and one half wine glass full sugar one tablespoon full rum a little water one wine glass full ice crushed one wine glass full this is a model for all Juleps into a large glass with the water and sugar and squeeze a sprig of fresh mint in them taking it out when the flavor is imparted or in the brandy and ice which shake well put in a slice of orange or pineapple or both with the mint to look pretty a spoonful of rum sprinkle with sugar and send to table Juleps are imbibed through straws instead of the crushed ice you can partly freeze them like other frozen beverages iced lemonade rub ripe lemons with a handful of granulated sugar or lump sugar to extract the essential aromatic oil in the rind slice and throw the fruit into cold water varying in quantity as you want a clear drink or a syrup like one sweetened to taste some cut the fruit in half and squeeze out the juice other slice very fine and soak the pieces in water again the peeled fruit may be boiled by which means the juice is most thoroughly extracted if the fruit is sliced with the peel on a marked bitterness is given which is not to everybody's taste it is more agreeable flavored with the sugar rubbed on the rind three lemons should suffice for a quart of water and the juice of a couple of ripe oranges is thought and improvement sweetened to taste some use cooled boiled water in which the fruit and sugar are put or pour on the boiling water or again without any material difference the boiling water is poured on the juice of the oranges and lemons or quickly made glass put powdered sugar in a tumbler squeeze half a lemon juice upon it incorporate them fill nearly full with water add some shavings of ice clap on the metal shaker used by bartenders or another tumbler a little larger in the mouth so as to enclose its orifice and shake violently this may be dashed with sherry or other wine or cordials nearly always lemonade is improved with a little lemon essence iced citric lemonade citric acid in powder three penny weight sugar powdered one ounce lemon essence three penny weight iced water one quart the acid and sugar intermixed will keep in well-stoppered bottles salts of sorrel can be used for the acid as above or for the same amount of sugar oxalic acid 30 grains to moderate the acid gum Arabic syrup can be used with the water or its powder put with the acid and sugar dry the gum sold by foreign liquor merchants is this gum Arabic syrup iced milk lemonade sugar one pound juice of lemon one gill milk one pint water three quarter quart boil the water and dissolve the sugar in it flavor with the lemon juice add the milk and chill in the ice box iced syrup lemonade syrup of lemon lime juice sweetened one ounce iced water one half pint this is not so agreeable as real lemon juice iced tartaric lemonade this is called sherbet in England the compound of tartaric acid and sugar being sold mixed for use this must be kept dry or it will not effervesce tartaric acid cream of tartar in powder one ounce sugar powdered two and one half pound lemon essence one ounce iced water as much as is wanted mix the acid and sugar both very dry and put two teaspoon falls in a tumbler flavor the water with lemon extract and nearly fill the tumbler the acid will effervesce and the beverage must be drunk instantly if allowed to get still it is very flat and mawkish iced lemon squash in a tumbler with or without sugar as you like acidity mash half a peeled lemon on this pour a bottle of iced seltzer or bottled lemonade iced cream nectar sugar powdered or granulated two pounds tartaric acid two and one half ounce whites of eggs two water two quarts boil the water and dissolve the sugar and acid in it beat up the whites of eggs and put into a bottle in which shake it up with a little of the warm syrup add this to the hot syrup in the pan and boil for several minutes skimming all the time till clear flavor with vanilla lemon etc for use put half a teaspoon full of bicarbonate of soda in a tumbler pour on it two or three tablespoons of the syrup fill up with a little crushed ice and cold water or half freeze in the ice box orange aid or orange water peel a ripe orange and slice it thinly into a vessel with water to make a beverage with the following addition squeeze out the juice of two more oranges and one lemon and beat these up together strain and mix the two liquids by tossing them from one tumbler to another if the water be chilled or shaved ice be put in the tumblers for the shaking up it will be a most agreeable summer drink frozen rye and wine in a large glass put rye and wine to half fill it and ice with which to chill it fill up with seltzer water or siphon lemonade or freeze in the ice box before adding the cold seltzer from the ice box Roman punch simple to lemon ice cream add a froth of two whites of eggs slightly sweetened pour in and mix in three wine glasses of rum another to one half pint of rum and as much or twice as much champagne add a froth of ice cream or water ice with no color that would show sweeten the cream with powdered sugar or with syrup oil to the bowl or balling point one pound in one pint of water beating slowly until cold before serving some beat in the champagne or all into glasses cooled to prevent their breaking if pineapple rum be used sharpen with lemon water ice iced rum punch in three parts of good old rum mix one part of lemon juice flavored with lemon peel soaked in it for a while on the mixture pour nine parts of good tea and sweeten to taste put it in an ice cream freezer and freeze to the degree desired the other kinds with east indian arach red wines or champagne are made in the same way iced sanguari sugar one teaspoon full water one half wine glass full brandy one half wine glass ice in a piece according to the flavor desired use a french syrup or fruit color with carmine to a blood tint accept the gin or pale wine sanguari mix the ingredients with a piece of ice in them sherbet properly speaking sherbet is a cool drink more or less effervescent or at least sparkling the turks and greeks use snow instead of ice the italians however term all ices and ice creams sorbeti sherbet's the english give the name to the simple effervescent tartaric acid in sugar mixed with chilled water and also playfully to all liquors the sherbet of italian and peresian confectioners sorbet is a soft water ice rich with sugar a four fruits sherbet in strawberry current or raspberry ice cream put a little ritazia okatrafui b italian sherbet take a quart of peach apple apricot etc pulp and mix it with one to one and a half pounds of sugar and a pint of orange juice flavored with lemon juice strain the mixture put into the freezer cool and freeze color pink or rose with red coloring witch c c maraschino sherbet using the paddle mix maraschino in a dish with an ice cream plain vanilla or white witch c d noyo sherbet same as maraschino e rum sherbet in the same way as above blend a lemon ice cream with rum iced smashes sugar one teaspoon full water one teaspoon full brandy one wine glass ice crushed in a large glass mix the water and sugar and press the mint to give a flavor pour in the brandy whiskey rum or other spirits as desired add the ice shake thoroughly strain but decorate with the mint and a slice of lemon or pineapple may be frozen a little in the ice box iced sours the foundation is half a lemon's juice in half a wine glass full of water a little sugar for it must be tart not sweet and the spirits chosen as gin rum brandy etc fill up the glass with cracked ice strain after stirring end of section seven