 All right, here we go. I'm gonna try it now Good morning Jeep lovers Today, Julie and I are going to try to reinstall our engine that was recently rebuilt And she's gonna unbag it right now. We just got it home on the trailer not too long ago there it is the 1962 F-head and we have a Come along that's hooked up to a chain between these two trees. We're gonna lift it off the trailer Pull the Jeep forward and hopefully drop it in the engine bay without too much complication So let's get started We've got a short chain attached to a block and an exhaust bolt on one side and over here on the block on this side So just keep working the engine down you're gonna have to maneuver a little bit to get around certain things Spin left to right while you're lowering it. So the idea now is to get a couple of bell housing bolts in here That we can use as a guide We'll get them Whichever ones we can we'll get some guides and the two top ones are still in there But you need those to kind of line up your holes as you attempt to push it back onto the Transmission shaft You can see that we've got a bolt started up here. It's gone all the way through The bell housing through the block of the engine Same thing down here. I've got a clamp. It's kind of a skew But I wanted to be able to see that this is lined up nicely We've started our motor mounts just Set them in there and put the top bolt on so the Transmission shaft is engaged now because I've I can turn this and it'll move the Jeep say yeah So that's all good. So now all we have to do is a little more finagling We got to get the weight a little more weight off of this get it down onto the motor mounts And then we'll tighten up the the bell housing bolts. Look at Julie go She's putting the engine back in the Jeep She's doing a tightening the bell housing to the block bolt You don't get it too tight till we get the other ones going though That's a good start. So we have all of our bolts back in our bell housing and we have them all snugged up We have one bolt on each side and our motor mount We have all the weight off of our Come along so we can take that off now and then we're going to continue to torque our Bolts into the bell housing and we'll finish putting the motor mounts in so we've got both the motor mounts in There's one there's two and the other bell housing bolts are all in over here They're pretty tough to get a hold of some of them the top ones especially And so the next step is we're going to move it from this area We're going to switch places with our other Jeep over here and a little closer to the shop They're left to my little shop where that shed is and that's where all the rest of the Jeep parts are So we'll probably pick up on this again later and move the Jeeps around and we'll finish putting this together We've torqued our bell housing the engine block bolts to about They're supposed to be 30 to 40. We went around 35 Some of them it's hard to get the torque rinse on so you have to kind of guess at it The next thing we've done is we've put our carburetor on Because we wanted to route our fuel lines. They get a little funny down underneath the Water pump and around the fuel pump and involved with this oil line, too So we put the fuel pump on also And we've run the run the gas lines from the fuel pump to the carburetor and made sure everything Could be routed because that's a little tricky The next thing we're going to do is we're going to put on the Linkage for the carburetor because that goes behind the exhaust manifold and it's easier to do now So let's do that next Can we have our carburetor linkage put back together? Make sure you take some pictures of this Because it's a little tricky to get back together if you don't Remember how it goes. So that's all set to go now. We can put our exhaust manifold on there which goes over this piece of linkage There are two gaskets that are just single gaskets and There's another one. That's the Double for the middle part So this gets manifold gets torque to a 15 to 20 pounds. It's not very much There it was Okay, so we hooked up our exhaust pipe To the manifold It's got a gasket a metal reinforced gasket in there Which we used so that's done So we need to finish up our Engine mounts don't forget your ground strap it goes from one of the bolts on the engine mount to the Looks like the alternator bracket and then you can also tighten up to three-quarter the main Not on the engine mount Okay, a little update. We got rained out for a Half a day there yesterday, but we're back at it today. I Can't remember exactly where we left off, but we have put on the starter. We haven't done the wiring yet We just bolted on the starter We bolted on the alternator and the bracket that was a little bit of a chore I hope you take pictures of yours if you have a bracket like that We also put on the air filter The next thing we're going to do is the distributor which is right here and To do that you need to locate The number one piston in the firing get it in the firing position So this is the number one piston the front of the engine we need to get that at In the compression stroke and we're going to do that by we put a little cardboard insert in there when that pops out That's going to be the compression stroke. So let's do that now. I got a Ratchet on the crankshaft turning the engine Okay, so that's the compression stroke that flew out. Okay, I turned the engine by hand with a ratchet on the crankshaft Until we got to the compression stroke of the number one cylinder And now I've got my pulley set at five degrees before top dead center. There are marks on the Timing cover and there's a mark on my pulley So we've got that set to where we want it and now we can go over to the distributor and Get the rotor pointing at the number one plug and we can install our distributor Okay to install the distributor you want to have that number one cylinder at The top at the firing position have your Marks lined up to five degrees before top dead center Then you can have your just rotor Pointing at the number one spark plug which should be in the five o'clock position four or five o'clock position Then you want to put a little oil on your distributor where it meets the block So with my rotor pointing at my number one Pin on the distributor or the number one plug wire I'm going to install you the distributor and this should be lined up correctly and I put a little oil on the Body where it meets the the block Then you can install your bolt from underneath under the bracket that holds your distributor in place Now my Jeep for some reason happens to be a Hundred and eighty degrees out of phase. It's the number one Wire or pin in the distributor is supposed to be down here at about the four o'clock position if you Adjust the distributor till the points just start to open this will also time your engine to five degrees before top dead center Because that's where we have our pulley set. See there. They're open Right there. They're just starting to open. So that's where we're gonna lock the distributor down Now that we have a distributor on we can attach the vacuum-advanced line to the bottom of the carburetor Pretty basic. So we've rewired the starter the solenoid and the coil the the main red power wire from your battery and from your alternator go to the heavy lug on your solenoid and The blue wire goes to the top of the solenoid The green wire goes to the positive side of the coil and the black wire from your distributor goes to the negative side of your coil So we've reinstalled our spark plug Wire carrier or holder and I remember that I just numbered these Plug wires one two three four starting from the front of the engine to the back So I'm gonna reinstall those Next we're gonna put on three hoses. We have a short. I believe this is a crankcase ventilator the main breather for the air filter to the carburetor and then one from the water pump I'm gonna bypass my Heater core, so I'm going from the water pump to the back here where the re-enters the engine block back here Next we'll put this on This I custom made out of a radiator hose since the original one was shot and the one that they sold me for a replacement lasted about three months before it cracked There was poor materials in there So we've replaced our grille radiator Assembly all in one piece making sure to get the big rubber washer underneath on top of the crossmember frame Now I put my shroud on behind my fan. I'm just letting it sit there So I'm able to fairly easily access these fan bolts I could have waited to take the hole put the whole unit in until I had the fan bolted up, but there's still plenty of room in there So we've put on the upper radiator hose. We finished screwing on the shroud Now we're putting on the lower radiator hose and this has a little bit of a protective Wrap around it right here Because it wants to hit the it wants to hit the Engine mount bolt So we're running out of parts. We have a couple fenders left. I'm leaving off the Heater core for now because we don't use it in the winter and it was just rattling around and So we put the fenders on and wire up. This is the lighting all this stuff is lighting But that has to go on to the fenders. Okay. We're really running out of parts now. We have two fenders left And these just Very simply bolt up the way you took them off I think there are four bolts there and three up going into the radiator to the grille Next we're going to replace the grille support rod pretty basic. I think you can figure it out yourself Pretty easy So we're rewiring our little block here for the lights. There are three posts And I had numbered my wires my post one two three and I put my numbers on my wires So I'm just replacing them the way they were It's for the lights one goes across to the other light. Here's the big test. All right. Here we go I'm gonna try it now. It's running great weeks that developed Two head bolts ended up leaking. They go through to the water jacket. So I removed them one at a time and put on a tea paste with Teflon And re-torque them And it worked great. They're not leaking at all now Also, we had an oil leak Crank shaft pulley not the main seal not the front main seal But the it was coming through the keyway on the crankshaft pulley. So I removed the pulley Put some permatex right stuff inside the pulley reinstall the pulley and Put the key back in and then leak was gone. It was just a drip that was Spraying from the fan. It was slinging around. It was different than a main seal leak. So so the right stuff fixed that Now the Jeep is running great. I'm going to fire it up and we'll listen to it for a second We're pretty happy with the way it's running So I hope you guys enjoyed the video. I hope you get your Jeep engine fixed up if you have to reinstall it or Whatever you're doing with it and uh appreciate you watching the video. We'll see you on the next one