 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools, essential support. So we've got quite a few cases here that are warm all the way up to about here. Coming in, I found one of the solenoids. And you can see, coming in there warm liquid, it's the solenoid and it doesn't continue forward. That solenoid is not on. And you can see that it's not happening. And this whole length of cases all pretty much are warm. One, two, three, total four cases. I need to go back and see. I haven't done much at this store. I know this one's like a really old one. Yeah, you go to the back wall, you're 50 degrees back here. You come up here to the air bands, which we've got two sets of air bands on this thing. Alright, so I'm going to go and see if we can find the compressor room and take a look back here. It says here, T-stats are all into canopies. We want A8, so we want rack A, circuit A, rack A. So coming over here, it says AS. That looks like V. Some amazing stuff. A8, there you go. There's eight. This thing basically don't tell you a whole lot of anything. It tells you the compressors are running. It tells you some basic facts about it. So here's eight. It's on a sort valve. We are energized, and it's not really coming back cold. That's cold. That's cold. So we're working on the sort, or on the sort valve is open from what I see. And far as eight, you look down at all the angles, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. Here's eight. So here's this one. It feels warm there, so it's trying to go out. There's no liquid line valves on any of those. It's going to be timed off Pfrost. These here are actually hot gas. See how the hot gas can come in after the sort valve. This slams shut. Hot gas goes into there, goes to the suction line, comes out around the TXV, comes back on the liquid header, and dumps back here onto this thing right here, which is a liquid header. I think our problem's going to be out there. We've got sight glass that looks a little shoddy. Not a real surprise. That's generally how these racks are ran. They're ran as low as you can get them. That way if they go, get a leak, you'll know right away. So I don't believe we've got an issue with the refrigerant. I think it's an issue with the thermostat. Here's defrost clocks. Replaced that motor back in 2029. All that does makes everyone of these turn. Each one of these are timers, just like a regular defrost clock. Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding. So you've got a total of whatever there is here, 15. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Go figure, right? We'll end up erasing that with just one or two little boards. Make sure we're not in the defrost. Find number 8, which you would think that suction stop would be potentially closed. Kind of hard to tell. It's not real good at this part here. This kind of sucks. All right, there we go. That's 10. So obviously, there's 8. It's about 4D frost. It does not look like we're in it. So let's go out there and see if we've got an issue with the solenoid not getting power. All right, so we're back over here and you follow that wire. Wire goes all into the next case. We just got unchecking voltage. I do not have voltage. So it is not energized. I pulled the lights out, looked up there. I don't see it. So this thing's going across there. I really don't want to get into those eggs, but we might have to do it. I'm going to grab my camera and see if we can see in there. Until we find it, I'd love to get this refrigerant flying because we're pretty warm. We've got macaroni salad and stuff like that that could spoil. Let's see what happens. I'm not hearing the usual click. There's a stem to manually do it. Warm, warm gas is coming through. We're going to go ahead and let that flow like a river and get some temperature going down. I guess we need to find out where that solenoid's at. We got this right there in there just in case it kicks on. That way it doesn't burn up the coil. It is getting cold. So that was one solenoid for the whole thing. Also, I ended up pulling this over a little bit and used my mirror and I can see this comes up down in here. I don't know if it's, God, it's going after that. We're going to yank this off and see if that thermostat's going to be hidden down in here. Right there's the trap door to the pit. So coming across here, lift this up because there's wires dangling. And the wire comes through that wall right there and it ties into some other wires. I don't know if this is even on thermostat. It makes me wonder if you can see the color it used to be. Okay, so one wire goes to that bundle and there's a blue wire. It kind of goes right there. It goes all the way down there. I'm wondering if that blue wire goes to the thermostat that might be maybe in the middle. I don't know. I mean, really, you wouldn't need a thermostat if you're using a sword valve because the sword valve, you set your evaporator pressure temperature that you want to run at and that maintains it usually just fine. You would think we'd have it up here somewhere. The guy that usually does it is on vacation and not many of the others now. So it's quite a treat. All right, I went through here and numbered us to make it a little easier for next time. Eight is that one, which also says it's a gray. Gray is eight. If you look here, one and three should be together under normal operation. So we come up here to one and three and we check voltage and we have nothing. So we flip eight the other direction and now we have two hundred and eleven, or yeah, two hundred and eleven if I can get the thing to hold right. You know that it's working off the clock, clock is working, it's changing position. My thought was maybe we weren't getting power out to the solenoid from here if that's where it's wired at. You don't really see anything in here. I don't know what they were up to, why they did it the way they did it. I don't know why we can't find a freaking thermostat because I don't think there is one. I think it's powered off of the rack back here and they might shut it down when it goes into a defrost to conserve refrigerant possibly into the rack. Hard to say. So we have some clocks over there. I just grabbed one or left over from other stores we've updated to the YouTube controllers. So I got one here. I think it's going to work okay. When you rotate this thing, you can see the wheel there kicks it forward, kicks it one way, boom, click, a little further, it kicks out. Goes to the next spot again, pushes it over, clicks it in, kicks it out. This one here, kicks that way and when you get around to it, it just won't act like it was kicking back and forth. There it did it, there it did. See how long it is before it does it again? So, clicks on, off, rotate, rotate. See it should have kicked back on. It's still rotating bunches and bunches. It should be on longer than it is in defrost. There it was quick on it to pick off. But here, it's like it's missing. There must be a nub. The nub here looks like it's a little war on one side over the other. So I'm going to copy it from this one here to see if we can get that thing wired up. So as long as this works it should be good. As you can see here it's a little bit easier to see. This is your coming minutes. It's got a little prong there and it's got a prong there. So it comes up, picks it into defrost. Bam. This rotates 40 minutes, triggers it again, kicks it out. This little one right there, that copper one seems to be the one that was wore out. As you go a little further it boom, as you come down, boom. So the copper one would be the one that's wore out. You can see it's a pretty good size chunk right there. You look at this one, looks like a big chunk but something's wore out. I'm not sure what. So when you watch this one go, boom. Sometimes it does, sometimes it don't. I don't, I don't know. It just wasn't hitting. We're going to try it and see what happens. So we got it back together. You got to make sure you get this little piece in between there, connected in there. Otherwise it won't continue to clock on a cross. This is before my time. I didn't get a lot of experience with that. Let's go down there and see now that we have power on A if it's running like it should. So we are feeding through there but unfortunately, our solenoid still does not have any power. We have at least dropped some of our case temperatures. We've got some places that are definitely cooler than others. So back here, I mean this product's all nice and freaking warm now. It's getting there but it's still, I mean it's colder. You can tell we're getting cold all the way back to here. So we're definitely getting cold now. I'll tell you what, this thing's freaking amazing. Compared to what I had before, day and night difference. You can see such a definition that man, you can just tell that one's colder than the other, plain as day. You can kind of tell if the fans are not doing as good as they should. Interesting. One more time I'll tell. I finally found it. It's right here. Who would have ever seen that coming, right? After yanking all these out, pulling every square ballast spot, finally found it. Now how that's going to come out of there I'm not really sure. Alright, so I rotated it down there and it's pulling nice and hard on that so it's working. It's definitely going to do a thermostat. Alright, so we got the top piece out. There's the control. It goes into that little spot right there. Can I show you what it is? It comes down throughout hole and eventually ends up right there. All of that case with the thermometer there. That thing is silver. I've never seen a sensing bulb silver. That thing's three years old at least. Yep, good deal. I'm going to go ahead and chop that and I'll pull it through with the bulb, tie it to it pull it into position. Alright, so we got that across there. This is the biggest pain in the butt I've ever seen in my life. So I was able to hook the old wire on the back of that, tape it up really good and pull it through. Total pain in the hind end. So we're back at 40 there. I mounted up there about the same place as the other one. Had to get a little destructive with some of that insulation. But I don't see anything on the thermal imager that I was picking up any heat. Figuring we've set it about 10 degrees colder than what the design temp is. So at 35, it'd be 10 below at a 10 degree T.D. Down here we're at 35 area. 30. Depending on what you're looking at, if you look at the center center spot there we're at 53 supposedly. Go to the white back here in the back and we're 27. Got my old fashioned traditional here. So I checked one of the other ones and they were set warmer than that. Okay, I just turned the kick on. I got up to 40-ish. We may have to set it a little lower. You can remember the product was warm. So I don't know. Let us toss up. Monitor from further away. They just don't have any of that here. We're at 42. Might go a little bit colder. These stats, I'd rather have that on there, but I'm afraid they'd have that off of there for a reason. I could steal this one here and put it over it. We're at 40-ish there. I mean the whole thing is, it's got an EPR on it, back of the rack. I don't know why they're even using this. No sense to me. But you would think you'd want to keep a constant temperature. Whatever. So anyhow, that's going to wrap this one up guys. If you enjoyed the video and you want to see more like it, hit the thumbs up button. Until next time, catch you on the next one. Later.