 Seven, six, five, four, three, two, one, go. You'll never have a decent. What's up guys, welcome to today's vlog. I'm feeling very strong on the vlogs lately. I got three days in a row, so I hope you guys are enjoying them. I'm gonna try to keep that ball rolling. Today what we're gonna focus on is concave layering. We did a nice medium length haircut. I love it because it's got a nice shattered feel to it. The other great thing about this haircut is that we did some shorter layers in here so it stacks up, let's see if we can show you. It stacks up nice and tall in the crown area and then shatters out towards the bottom. So lots of layering. I also show you guys a new technique on this fringe, how to create kind of a shattered fringe in there as well. So let's get started with the video. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Here we go. All right guys, so this is the transformation that we're gonna have. So the thing I like about this video is that instead of taking a fresh manic and we actually have one that has already been cut in a longer haircut, she's got a bang, she's got a lot of layers. So how do you transform that into a medium length haircut? That's what we're gonna go through now. So I'm gonna start off by sectioning right down the center of the haircut. Because I'm gonna do a straight kind of fringe or a shattered fringe across the front, I can part it right down the center and section off each side. So then I go mid crown down to right above the temple area, right at that parietal ridge point and I create kind of a triangle on the top of the head. Then I go straight down center back from that. And then what I'm gonna do is something a little bit unique because I like to find the corners of the head. We've talked about this before. I kind of lay the comb across the crown and then I run the comb down just to see where that occipital bone starts. So you can see that parting, how it goes right down behind the ear, basically creating another triangular section with a diagonal forward line. And then I do the same thing on the opposite side. So I'm sectioning this haircut into three parts. I'm gonna start by collapsing the bottom. Then I'm gonna work into the mid part of the haircut and then we're gonna work on the top later on. So the thing I like about this technique and as we're gonna go through the haircut, what we're gonna do is we're gonna create the concave layer. So we start off, I go from high occipital bone down, creating that small vertical parting and then elevating my elbow up. And this is cutting true concave, really collapsing the shape. If you guys don't know what concave layering is, it's above 90 degrees. So it starts to collapse the shape. So we shift our elbow up, give it a really extreme kind of feel to it. So it's gonna create a nice short layer towards the top of the occipital bone and then it's gonna get longer towards the end. In a lot of concave layering that I do, I'm leaving the baseline of the haircut a lot longer than it's actually gonna be in the end of the haircut, which I'll show you guys when we get there. But I'm gonna start off just by creating that interior shape that I'm looking for. So I'm really focused on how long that layer is right at the top of the occipital bone, not so worried about the length that I'm pushing towards the bottom. Everything's being over-directed into the center. We talked about this in the previous video that we did. So if you look at the center as six o'clock, we're taking everything all the way over to nine o'clock, which is right behind the ear and we're over-directing it all to six o'clock. What that's gonna do is push extra weight towards the front. It's also gonna preserve length and it's gonna create the shortest point in the center back of the head, which is a nice strong point where we want that layering, but we don't want it short all the way across. It can get a little mullity looking if you do that. So depending on what the guest wants, you know, you go from there. So we're gonna do the same thing on the opposite side. Difference is, like always, I'm combing the new hair towards the guideline. So you can see now instead of pulling towards my body, I start pushing towards the center. What that's gonna do is keep the consistency. The hardest thing about haircutting is staying consistent with your combing. The cutting part is the easy part. So I just go through, I'm using my YS Park 339 comb. It's my favorite comb. You guys see me use it in pretty much every video. The reason for that, it's got great tension. It's not too big. It doesn't get in the way of everything that I'm doing. I just work my way through the head shape. So now we've created that concave feel. So now I went through in my head a couple different ways of how I wanted to go about. That being comfortable, cutting this part of the haircut. And palm to palm was my choice because it just felt the most comfortable. The more you put your elbow up in the air, the harder it is to stay consistent. So I just tilt the head back towards me a little bit, which makes it a little more comfortable and I work palm to palm. Everything's gonna come back to that point again, but a little more of a traveling guide in the back across the crown. And then as soon as I got to that nine o'clock position, then I start over directing everything just straight back to me, not straight over to six o'clock. So let's say that nine o'clock is going back to eight o'clock and just being over directed straight back. What that's gonna do is almost like cutting a graduated bob on top of a haircut. So I like this because we left it a little bit longer. You can see that kind of forward feel to it, how it starts to move forward. That's gonna be great when we go in and we cut that base part of the haircut off, which will make sense in a minute. So now I'm gonna work over top of my fingers. This was the most comfortable choice for me. Again, haircutting is all about being comfortable. That's what's gonna make you consistent. So working on top of my fingers was the best choice for me working through. Still traveling guide all the way through the background, when I hit that nine o'clock point, then everything just comes straight back to that, which becomes a stationary guide at that point. So I'm gonna work my way through the head shape. You can see nice vertical sections, slight diagonal back, not too much. That doesn't really matter, but I try to keep my partings pretty much similar to the angle that my finger is going to be, just for reference. So now you can see the layering that works through there. You can also see that there's a long kind of tail hanging off the back. That is the extra length that we pushed and kept at the bottom. So now I'm gonna go through with my Donald Scott Twist razor, and I'm gonna go through and just use a heavy stroke with the razor, but also just to shatter the bottom and create the length that I'm looking for. Yes, you could go through with the scissor also and cut the bottom. Sometimes I like to use multiple tools to get a different effect. This is an easy way to get a shatter bottom. Sometimes when you point cut, it doesn't really turn out the way that I want it. It seems a little bit more thick if I try to cut it with a scissor. So just going through with the razor real quick. If you have the tool, you might as well use it as well. So now I'm gonna go through blow dry the hair. I'm using the Ergo Paddle Brush Dyson Blow Dryer. If you guys have questions about the Dyson Blow Dryer, I did do a review on it. I am really enjoying the blow dryer, but it's also a $400 dryer. So if you don't have every tool that's nice, if you don't have nice scissors and you don't have nice combs and all that, I don't recommend that that's the first thing you go out and purchase. But it is a really cool tool and I love new technology. So I'm actually really enjoying using the blow dryer. So we're gonna go through Ergo Round Brush as well. So I used the paddle brush just to get a little bit of movement. But the cool thing about this cut is I wanted to have that volume created with the round brush. So I go through and I create that volume on the sides just at the base and then I go through the top. I don't want all that volume on the top. I think sometimes what separates when you're doing a haircut or styling a haircut, what separates it from being modern looking is that we do too much round brushing and then it becomes too big of a helmet look to it. So this I just go through, polish off the top, round brush the sides, get that kind of volume going in there. And now I'm gonna go through using my Mizutani Puffins which is my dry cutting scissor and I use the tease cutting technique to blend the top. So you know how we left that triangle shape on the top so I blew that dry, I didn't cut it at all and then I go through and I cut it dry just to give it a nice blend. The top to me is a roof. It's sitting over top of the foundation that you created. So as I go through it, I can use my dry detail work to really just soften that roof and lay it over there and give me that detail I'm looking and really the texture that I'm looking for in the haircut. So I use the Mizutani Puffin here. This is the dry cutting scissor. Through the rest of the haircut before when I did the precision cutting, a lot of you guys ask questions about what tools I'm using. I use the Mizutani Pen Slim Scissor. It's a brand new, it's the newest scissor that Mizutani has. It's Nano Powder Metal and I use that for my precision cutting. It was the six inch version of that. So now just finishing up. If you're wondering how to do that texturizing technique on the top of the hair, I really, it's just a half open, half close. So as you push into the hair, you half close the scissor and then you release it. So you're teasing into the hair and then you release it. That allows that texture to be built up and for it to only cut a little bit of the hair. So now I use the round brush. You can see how it gave that fullness and body in the haircut. Now I go through with my Vibra Straight Iron and I polish the ends. So I don't like to just use one tool. One tool doesn't fit everything. So we go through and I use the Vibra Straight Iron to smooth out the ends to really kind of make this look happen. And then at the very end, I finish off the fringe. She already had a fringe, but now I'm gonna go through and I'm using my Dual Texture Scissor by Mizutani. This thing's cool because it's texturized on both sides. So there's gaps in between the blades. So as soon as you cut, you can slide that scissor right out and it doesn't pull the hair, which is really nice. So I just work it back and forth until the hair is completely cut off. So I could do this with a scissor and then I would go through a point cut or I try to use it with a razor. It's just another technique that you can do to create that shattered fringe without it being too shattered and really allowing you to customize it. You can see how I'll take the Texture Scissor and I'll go a little bit higher, maybe about an inch in. But the key thing in that is the elevation. So I don't lift the hair too high because the higher you lift the hair, the more layered it's gonna get and then you're not gonna like the outcome. Finish off with a little Bercato Carve. This is a Texture Cream Paste. Just use that just to add that texture in there and piece out all those layers that I created in the haircut. I really like this cut. You could wear it curly if you wanted to. You could wear it straight. I like the straight kind of textured feel to it but you could also use a wand iron on it as well if you want to, but you can see that shape. I really love that build up of weight in the crown and then how it just slims out in the bottom. So hope you guys like it. Let me know in the comments below. Thanks for watching. All right guys, like always. If you like this video, then make sure you share it with your friends. Also, hit the like button below and if you haven't subscribed to this channel yet, you have to subscribe to the channel. Also, check out freesaloneducation.com. We have one of the biggest deals of the year going on, so go check it out if you want new scissors, combs, clips, brushes, carving combs, all the tools that you see on these videos are available for purchase on freesaloneducation.com. So I appreciate the support, guys. Let me know if you have any video ideas below in the comments as well because I love hearing your ideas and also if you made it this far in the video, you made it all the way through. I love to hear that as well. Thank you guys for watching. I'll see you on the next video, next. Right now we have one of the biggest deals.