 This helps if I turn this on what's up guys welcome to today's class super excited to have Brian hair here live with us today Thank you guys so much for tuning in. I'm gonna let him take on the show, but you guys are in for a treat He's gonna show you guys some different blonding techniques, and I'll be watching the chat taking your questions So make sure you guys get involved in the chat if you're an original of watching these live shows make sure you type that in the chat also if you're new type new in the chat and If you have questions just post them the one thing I want you guys to do if you do have a question is type Q Then put your question that way I can see it in the chat easily Otherwise just get in the conversation get involved the more you guys talk the more you share the more people we get in this room So thank you guys so much And here's Brian here That was oh we're ready you're good now. All right, so now hi Good morning. So or yeah, good morning to where I'm at in the world And then I'm seeing people from all over so good whatever time of day. It is where you are So yeah, so I'm gonna be doing some color today. I I feel like I wanted to come up with something that is working for us time appropriate right now with what's going on in the World in the salon So if you're watching this 500 years into the future right now We're coming off of a serious pandemic where a lot of people haven't been able to get to the salon in a long time So this was a technique that I came up with for my guess that I was seeing regularly They love lots and lots of blonde, but for whatever reason I have not seen them in a while So their blonde was super grown out, but they didn't want to they didn't want to lose that they wanted it to make Sense, but they also wanted something soft enough, you know in case it was gonna be a while before they could come back again So, you know a necessity breeds innovation. So I came up with a fun foil technique that's gonna kind of Deliver some energy and excitement in different parts of the head in different ways So we're gonna be utilizing back-to-back foiling. We're gonna be using slicing. We're gonna be using tease highlights We're gonna be using weaves all of it, so What I'm gonna be going over today is not exactly exactly how you should be doing it I'm gonna go over how I want it done on this mannequin. I want you to be able to Take the the components of this and turn it into whatever you need to for your guest So this is gonna be our finish because just a show you're not gonna actually sit there and watch me cook a lasagna I'm just gonna put noodles in a thing and then go hey look. It's done. So here's the done As you can see she's got some nice energy going around the face I'm always a big fan of the the money piece around that face there So that's gonna be where I'm gonna utilize my back-to-back weaves to give that just that nice pop around the face that someone's looking for Down the part we're gonna be doing some tease highlighting that way it has a nice softness to it So that it's not a real harsh grow out in case it is gonna be a little while before they can make it back Also, even if they are coming regularly It's just a cool look to have that a little bit more lived in this doesn't have to be done on someone That you're not gonna see in a while. I am doing this on someone who comes in regularly as well through the sides, I'm going to be mixing it up and doing a little bit of weaving maybe some slices we'll see what the the mood calls for and Because the hair is gonna be darker denser and More solid. I'm gonna be doing some weaves through the back of the head So here's your after and then I'll set up our before head and just like that It's a pot of noodles again All right, so I've got her with a center part The way that I'm gonna section this off. It doesn't really matter where your guest part It's actually great if it's one of those well, but my part links to move That's fine. So what we're gonna do is I'm gonna create my first section with their part being in the middle So because I'm doing the class and I want to make my life easier It's a center part today, but if it's off on the side. No big deal. You're just gonna be creating that With your your part right in the middle So I am going to take this then again Turn so you can see okay So my section for that little mohawk is gonna come back just to the background Get that get that round Because of how the the sectioning is going to work. I do like to follow the shape of the head keeping a pretty consistent Rectangle here because it just makes for cleaner working that looking all right am I in the way? No, you're good. Oh good If you work with nice clean parting, it's gonna make your life so much easier down the road Because we are gonna be starting at the top and then working down So if you work neat, you're not gonna be pushing a whole bunch of messy messy stuff out of the way You're so silky gorgeous Now off of this off of the back of the head Towards the you know right about the corner of my rectangle from the top I'm gonna take that to directly behind the ear creating a Nice panel to work with It's the side of her head and again just take that out of my way I'm gonna mimic it on the other side and Then to finish that off. I'm just gonna divide this last back section just right in half and this sets you up really for many Different color and lightening techniques because this really does section out three pretty important areas That you have to work with because the hair along the part Typically is gonna want to be a little bit lighter It's gonna be a little bit easier to get lighter And you're gonna need to be putting a lot of focus on that your hair through the sides of the head You might want to treat a different way just because Of whatever look you're going for so That's beautiful. That's exactly how somebody should look nice curtains You're welcome All right, so we've got her sectioned off up top again where we're gonna be doing the tease highlighting sides will be weaves and the back will be slices I Like to work. I'm gonna be standing in front of her. So which one do you want me to stand that? like That's good for you I'm gonna be this way. Okay So I'm gonna start with her money piece here, let me just Keep this out of my way before we get started. Is everyone good? No questions or anything yet? There's some questions. Oh jeez. Let's see where we're at here Random one. Where'd you get the apron? What is it? Victory, I think it's like victory. Yeah victory brand. I just found them on Instagram I like it because I don't ruin my nice clothes. I wipe my hands off on this So I destroy these Best way to prepare for bleaching and protect before treating Meaning I mean like when someone comes in I'm just gonna get right into it But if it's someone who you know, you need a little TLC and they're your guest I make I do have clients that I say, you know before I see you again Please, you know do some of these deep conditioning treatments on yourself Just to prepare the hair. It's why it's a good time to have a conversation about stuff They need to take home to maintain their investment All right, so real quick right up front. Do you need me to turn her some? Is that enough you got more Okay, so up front on this front hairline On a regular hairline, it's gonna give a little bit more but you guys get the idea. I like to do Weaves along the hairline because it gives it a nice bold pop without So much of a harsh harsh line So I'll just you know grab some random going a little heavy on it Because chances are if they're already your color client, there's already some lightness through here So that's why this is sort of refreshing at the same time as creating. Just come on in Get it nice and tight if that's the look you're going for the only not the only but the the one part of the head that I really try to focus on a real client of making sure I get as close as I can is this money piece because That's what makes it pop so much. That's what makes that Explosion around the face that everyone notices because it's great You want it to look good all over because you know you're providing a service and this is your work But it's that stuff around the face that they're gonna stare at that. They're gonna notice right off the bat So is I'm gonna do just a few foils back again back to back weaves Because that also helps to keep it from being too solid if you do back-to-back slices You get a chunk, but if you do back-to-back weaves it kind of Breaks up the start of it a little bit and makes it just look a little softer a little more natural So I don't remember. Oh look that's nothing like the weave before it This is exciting This is how magic happens So as far as how big you want this money piece to be that's all on you and your guests You guys have a discussion. I've seen people that have pulled off a really huge panel right up front of a ton of blonde And I've seen people that just like a thin little one. I Just rewatched this weekend The morning show and I gotta say I think that's my favorite that Jennifer Aniston's money piece has ever been because it's really like fine around her face it goes down both sides of her part, but it's really bright and I was like watching real close to see where it looks like it starts and it's just it's done really well So that's what this reminds me of I like to do Super fine Like not real far back on the head and Then that's why I like a good foil technique because then I can get in there and let it process to get it Super duper bright Like you know foils can do So Olivia's got a good question. What's up, Olivia? Talk to me through Matt's voice What volume of developers do you start with in the money piece? Well, because I do want it to get bright. I Have this technique When you're not talking through it like I'm about to do you can typically get through pretty quickly So I'll use the same that I do everywhere So if I'm going in with a 20 volume on which is you know pretty normal pretty typical I'll go in with 20 here because I do want this to be the brightest You know keep an eye on it I don't know that I would put this on somebody if you've got 20 on the the money piece and then like leave and go Have lunch, you know, I would Watch it and if it looks like it's getting a little compromised then you know pull it out while you process everything else But typically I can you know time it so that it gets done around the same time And then finish at the same time But if you are going in and doing Zillions of foils on the head you might want to start with something a little bit lighter Like lighter as in lower developer around the face. So you don't So that that piece that I'm talking about they're gonna stare at the most isn't destroyed and damaged Does that make sense? There you go. All right, so I'm gonna do one more of these Just because I am making them nice and Super duper fine, and then we're gonna move into the teasing Another good Question KS is saying how do you avoid lines? I struggle with this a lot Well, that's why I'm doing the weave on finer like It's a finer section that I'm taking and then I'm doing a weave to help diffuse a start point Because if you take a really thick foil, then it's gonna be a really thick chunk of a start line Whereas if you do a lot of smaller ones, you can't get the exact same spot over and over and over again So that's gonna diffuse that line a tiny little bit for you and make it not quite so In your face So try that Okay, so we've got a little money piece working. We're good now For the rest of this Mohawk, I'm gonna go through and I'm gonna take slightly thicker sections and we're gonna do tease highlights So the whole point of a tease highlight is to get the energy of a foil with the softness of Like a balayage or an ombre so much. It's not you're not gonna get close to the root So it's obviously not something that maybe you want to do on everybody But for what we're doing here, it's pretty perfect. I'm gonna turn her because I want you to see So when I tease Let's there's two ways to do it. Uh, no, I like there's only one way. So I'm gonna do a little bit fatter Double weave you can see decently thick and then just some Light teasing I'm holding on not real tight Because more so than creating a nest at the root I'm trying to see that I'm breaking up where the ends of the hair are You can see that, right? Because I don't have it super super tight with the tease. So there's ends all over here so I'm gonna highlight to about there and what that's gonna do that's going to avoid a line all together because Think about Where that's hitting on all that different hair and then just to add a little bit more softness. I'll turn my brush And just have more of like a feathered technique up at the top there. So you get a good saturation Lock it up. Just get a couple more in there and we'll move into the sights. How are we doing? Good Okay, so what lightener are you using I am using Paul Mitchell's sinker lift right now Because I like it. It's very dependable. It has a really good consistency and it gets me the lightness that I want While making sure I'm not destroying the hair in the process So Jess is asking do you use clay lighteners and if you do How do you distinguish when to use a clay lightener as opposed to a powder lightener? I use powder lighteners in foils and clay lighteners when I'm just doing hand painting because Typically you need That that nice consistency of the clay lightener as you're applying so that it doesn't get everywhere It doesn't stay like Moist as long as a powder lightener does So it's less messy Let's get one more and we'll move into the sides Just get a nice Chunky weave. I feel like this is a good thing to talk about so And I'll kind of throw in my two cents too. Somebody was saying what's better than a 10 v or 10 v v toner I Have too much gold in my blondes what so here's here's the words that I think we should discuss because you're talking about what? Brightens blondes better. Mm-hmm your tone with the V. You're actually dulling your blond When you neutralize something you dull it you're not and I think what you mean is make it whiter, but Brightness comes from yellow. So right so that's kind of a hard thing when you when you think about Right, there's light and there's bright You know I because I've got people that I can blast them up to an 11 And then we tone it with like a really nice ash and it's as light as it can go But that ash is absorbing light. So it's not necessarily bright That's why you you need to when you're talking to your guests have that conversation of light versus bright And then Christos is saying or Christos Christos is saying how much Space do you have between your sections? Here I'm doing maybe half inch in between. It's really going to be dictated by how much you want this curtain up top To have lightness going throughout. I'm gonna get that out of my way Now I'm gonna move into the side here Let me just Keep that little guy So in moving into these side panels this hair is gonna come for this type of haircut It's gonna come down. It's gonna go back. It needs to look good in many different directions so I am gonna follow the hairline and I'm gonna do a really light weave first because a lot of people even on a look like this That does look a little more lived in do still want it to to show when they pull their hair back So I do like to do Just a little guy little itsy bitsy along the hairline I'll just grab like small little baby lights Well, maybe He's cute and then I'll just leave that as an actual weave. I won't tease it or anything Do I'm gonna do both sides or just go into the back after this Okay, I mean both sides are gonna be the same so we get that little cute little weave in there But then once I move into once we go beyond the hairline and we get into the meat of The side section I do like giving it a little bit more of a pop because we're doing a weave It's not going to explode like a slice wood But I do want to start seeing some bands running through the hair Because we are trying to marry this new look with if she's got old blonde on on her ends So again, I'm following I like to follow my section angle that with the hairline Because that makes it Fine if the hair comes forward fine if the hair goes back and it gives it enough of a diagonal to diffuse it as it comes down Again, it's a nice little weave. I like to change up Some thicker some little You can do Morse code in their hair if you want with dots and dashes whatever whatever makes you happy and Also makes them happy because let's not forget It's kind of what they're paying for you use Olaplex with bleach. I do I'm a big fan of Olaplex ever since it came out. I've seen really amazing things. I've been able to do really amazing things and I'd say not stress as much, but let's be honest like we're all just stressing all the time But it's nice that my stress is for nothing when I use Olaplex and the hair feels great afterwards Has a nice shine So again, the whole point of this technique is to do as much or as little as your client wants or needs So you can do these foils with just a tiny little bit of hair in between Or you can add a little bit more space to give it a slightly more organic lived-in look It's as much or as little as you want to get whatever effect You're trying to achieve Like my guess the the first guess that I did this on she's somebody she likes a dramatic pop But she needed something super low maintenance. So I went in and I did quite a few foils especially along the The top for her through that mohawk section of the the tease Because that's what she sees the most, you know, that's that's what's on the outside. That's what She's gonna look at and determine how blonde she feels So that's where I put in a lot of energy. You can see she I think I put a picture of her up on my Instagram She's like She's got a mask on so you'll know that But she's got long blonde hair with nice pops of color around her face. I just saw it recently So it'll be a recent post So you get to pick how much energy and excitement You get it's kind of like I just got a bidet and it's like a little bit You just like do a little bit of highlighting and it's like, oh, all right, nice or you can do a lot bit and it's like whoa Let's that's intense Were you looking for my picture of Ariana? Yeah, were you just talking about a bidet? Yeah Well, because it's similar like if you just want a little bit of intensity it gets the job done But if you want a lot of intensity, it's gonna put you stop in your tracks. Okay? My international People you know what I'm talking about. Yeah Okay, so now I'm gonna clip that out of my way. Oh Yeah, there she is So you can see yeah, then that's what I'm working on right now. Boom. That's the mannequin So you can see where I did The stronger money pieces around the face that back to back with the foiling and then behind that you can see where there's some highlighting But it also looked very lived in very organic. I wanted a transition into you can see those super light ends From when I was mega bleaching her back before lockdown a year ago. So this is how We're evolving her color Into a nice fresh new way Okay, so now I'm moving into the back. You let everybody know that you're getting paid for them. I am I am getting paid for this If you think I should get paid more you know who to talk to Yes, I'm getting paid and he's gonna buy me lunch today. Yeah, no, I'm just kidding. I made my lunch I made a really good lunch actually Okay, so my back section. This is where you get the freedom to go a little bit harder in the paint That's a sports term, right? I think so. Yeah. All right. No. Hey, that's me So back here typically the hair is more dense. It is darker. It doesn't see the light as much So you can you can go you can get in there a little bit So back here is where I like to do full-on slices because this is what's going to fall around The like around the face but like around the neck that that heavy shadow that comes from back here nice pops of highlights here will just help to break that up a little bit and Just make it make it explode a little bit more when they look in the mirror So I am going to start with a Fine so Everything I just said hold on to that but forget it for a moment because I'm going to start with a fine weave on the hairline Just for pulling it up out of your like when she pulls her hair up's sake Anytime I'm doing anything along the hairline. I like to do a fine weave just because it makes it a little bit softer So again, whatever your little heart desires As far as how much Here's a question Jeanine is saying would you say this technique would have an age group or would you use it for? Mature clients. I have been using this on anybody because it's really it's not so much of a Like a tick-tock trend as it is Just a technique for making someone's hair look nice like it's not I Don't feel like this plays into any trend too hard That would ice anybody out that may want it. Does that make sense? Yeah So if you want it more subtle if somebody, you know mature doesn't want a Crazy explosion of one then you just change it up a little bit. Maybe do a little smaller of a money piece You know, don't be afraid to reference Jen Anderson. Everyone of every age wants to look like her What about length wise with this technique? Length wise I would just change that up a little bit You know, if it was a bob I maybe wouldn't focus super hard on lots of Slices back here if hair is longer the slices back here going to show up a lot more in the length of the hair so Just keeping in mind When you're looking at a haircut where the excitement of the haircut is Find a blonde that that mirrors that so like I like in a pixie if they have a great bang Then obviously that's gonna be where you're focusing most of your attention and again Just real quick while I'm working I'm mirroring the the hairline as far as my I like diagonals because they blend and You want a little bit of blending to happen when you're using something more severe Like a full-on slice Again, don't go crazy thick if you want more blonde do more thin slices because more thin slices Will create lots of blonde without creating harsh ugly lines that you and your guests are not gonna want to see Even though she probably won't see them because it's in the back of the head You're gonna see them while you're blowing it dry or whoever's blowing it dry and you will be ashamed So do lots of thin slices Still closing it up because I'm OCD like that and then we're just gonna keep working in this back It's not really a quadrant. What is it when there's five? Quint drink Someone must know I gotta look that up. That's gonna by the mail day now unless someone else knows in the chat Just learn the term for when people are in their 70s septu-genarian and like octu-genarian when they're in their 80s So now I want to like make it to my 70s just so I can start introducing myself as a septu-genarian Things you think about hey Typically while you're foiling you're not talking the whole time so your mind's got to go somewhere Quintet is what Carol says Yeah, but I only know that is like a music group of five. We have Penta. Oh But like I need the the translation quadrant Five drin Whatever this back panel Go with that. All right, so fun little thing when you're actually doing this on all the hair Little tip from me. You will end up with a couple of triangles here where these meet I always save that for last and then I'll typically do just a couple of horizontal slices right here I'll show you I'll do a little horizontal slice here Horizontal slice horizontal weave. I mean and Then I'll use this piece Because I it's the last one you put in This will be what I check to make sure everything is done So when you're checking the money pieces and you're like, okay, they're they're good But you know, they're not gonna fry off if I give everything another minute or two I'll come back to this foil and look at it and Be like, oh, yeah, no or look at it and go. Oh, yeah Perfect because if this piece is good then everything underneath it's going to be even better Because that's got the added incubation of being surrounded by other foils and other hair So if you look at this and you're like, yeah, that's that's where I want it Then you know that everything down here is going to be a okay because this all gets a little bit warmer So that's exciting We put the noodles in the oven and then we have lasagna. I Processed it and toned it in those few seconds. What toner did you use and curled it? Actually, I didn't tone this I'm telling it. It's just technique. Yeah, it was just technique because I have a demi over the whole base And I was afraid if I toned it it would lift that off but again All right there. So now that you've seen where I put it in you've got the money money in the front and Then these diffused highlights Back here. That's what the teasing does is it makes it so that there's not a harsh line But there is a highlight here And you'll see it just picks up nicely, but diffuses itself and then when you come into the sides We've got a little let me just adjust As you come into the sides you've got your highlights in here you've got your slices They definitely show up. They're definitely in there But when the hair is down, it's nothing too extreme. It'll blend nicely And then as you make it into the back where you've got a bit stronger We've got your full slices It holds its own up against the the depth and dark of the back of the head So how about them apples? Just give her a little all the way around. I worked hard on this. Look at it. Love it dig it Okay, so I'm gonna read off a few questions. All right, let's go and then we'll wrap it up, right? Hit me So first one if they had damage in the front, would you reverse and do? Back to back Start back to front. Um, I Mean you can if that I feel like would maybe come down to more of like Changing your developers or if you have an additive that's meant to keep the hair from damage then, you know Treat all of your sections appropriately for how they need to be treated to look good and stay healthy if You know, you're limited on supplies and you only have one developer and nothing to add in then yeah, sure start in the back and and work forward to get To let there be enough time in the back for it to get Nice and bright. I wish this was a wig. I would wear this so hard right now All right, I think and clients came in like look at those wigs. I'm like, please those were wigs You know, I would have one on I think your brother came through with the Or didn't but it looks like he What I don't know. He wrote that. That's your brother. I don't know my brother. Yeah, right. Yeah Daniel. Oh, yeah, there it is. Oh Quintin, yeah That's what I guess Good job. Thanks, Daniel When is the next session so exciting stuff guys Actually next session is tomorrow Next session is tomorrow with Danielle, which is super exciting. We're gonna do some curly hair color and then Brian will be back here. Brian's gonna be here every what is today Wednesday? Yes every Wednesday morning at 10 a.m So you guys will get used to Brian He'll be doing all kinds of colors if you guys want to let us know in the chat what you want to see in future classes with Brian Let us know and if you like the class definitely, please just hit that share button for us and go follow Brian on Instagram will keep you up to date At hairstyle. I want to write it. Okay My last name is hair in case you don't know me. So that's where that comes from Right Style tattooed on my arm case you forget. There you go. The tattoo came first Luckily the Instagram wasn't taken So shout out to my tattoo artist the hashtags taken though because people can't spell yeah, it's unfortunate. It's Upsetting I tried to look and I tried to take over that hashtag a long time ago And I was like no I can't because there's just too many people that don't know how to spell Yeah, so Sharon it's 10 a.m. East Coast. So yeah, it starts at 7 a.m. Your time, which is early We know but where's that? Oh Pacific. Yeah, but Brian is about to go to the salon and do hair all day Yeah, this is my first client now. I have many more Yeah, so that's kind of why it's got to be so early, but make sure you give him a follow on Instagram Let's let's grow him up there and you guys will get used to hanging with him on Wednesday. He's super excited about that Oh, thanks, Adrienne And thanks everyone that came and watched and had fun. Yeah No, this has been fun. I look forward to Doing lots more with you guys like Matt said let me let him let us let Someone who can do anything about it know if there's anything specific that you want to see because I can come up with things all day long But it'd be fun to try to Do some stuff like at request Cool. All right. Well guys, I'll see your I'll look back at this and see all of your Suggestions for upcoming classes and me and Brian will talk about it and we'll see what we can do But thank you guys so much for for joining us today Let us be a part of your morning and can't wait for the next one