 Most 3D printers are like that, you can tell how new they are. So this is Delta Bong. It is what we call a Delta 3D printer. Rather it's a linear Delta robot. So it's got 3 motors that control these 3-carriers. This is something we know. I wanted to 3D print the wheels as well, but it didn't work out so well. Are there any 3D printer projects aiming to build self-repurposing machines? The service area obviously has to be larger. Do you feel something slightly smaller? Software building? No, hardware building is harder. You have to deal with the motors and you can't talk to people. The hardware building hardware is the precisely what we're at right now. It's about 3D printers that can be 3D printed. How do you know if the controller is there? Electronics. Well yeah, but you can't print because it's kind of like a squid. Let's give my next idea. So what slicer do you use? The controller coordinates, right? So it means it cannot be like someone's slicer. The controller board is the console. It runs Marlin. Marlin has the whole controller. Oh yeah, I've learned a new way to slice the model. It's the same. It uses the standard Cartesian coordinates and then the Marlin does the transfer. Oh, I didn't know that. I've only built the Cartesian ones. I never tried. I haven't built the Cartesian before. I use the Cartesian a lot. I use the Cartesian to print all of these parts. How about the vibrations? Can you promise with the vibrations? It's so funny. Vibrations, you can feel it as if the whole table starts shifting but overall it doesn't affect the print that much. You do get a bit of over-shoot. So this piece you see around the corner is a bit of a blank. That's mostly from my corner to the corner. So how about, is that as a recording? Does it, you calibrate my hand? Yeah, it's in my hand. My hand because I don't have the switch that's the calibration. I plan to make one like a trigger on or off switch. It's basically one of these switches. Oh, like the one on top here. But mounted somewhere here. Oh, too soon? Yes, so it can sense a bit. Because it's really difficult to calibrate. I mean it's not difficult, it's just tedious. And every time you take out the glass and put in a new one, that shifts it by just a bit. It's not always in the same orientation. Sometimes you end up with glass. So did you print out all these parts yourself? I designed these. The corner ones, the leaves. This one I copied from an existing design. The existing design had these jaws. These jaws but with a socket instead of a plug. Since I'm using hollow tubes and rather thick hollow tubes, I needed to change that. The effector is stock from the Rostock printer. This is someone else's design. Someone else's design. This I designed with copying someone else's design again. So you design this part, you design this part. So how many microns does it serve? How much? Adjustable. So you see these hexagonal spacers, right? These are eccentric spacers. The whole right is not in the centre. So as you turn the spacer, it pushes the wheel. It's a bit difficult but you have to adjust both spaces in tandem so that you can keep your carriage in the opening. The eccentricity is by 1mm, so you can adjust it. It works quite up to where you want it. But when you do something, how do you use it? How do you use it? The positioning is the same. How far do you know how much you will go through to get it? I don't know. I don't think there's much. I didn't really factor it into the design but it's more of the quality of the belt. So these are very cheap belts. I bought a 10-metre reel from Aliexpress for $10. The same goes for the greens. Those are $10 packs for $5. How much is it? Is it 6? Yes, yes. This is somebody's open cape. It was some kind of shelving taken apart. The cupping was difficult because you need perfect lighting to free your joints. I went downstairs and there's a shop that has this fence on both the cables. So you just keys in the length you need and it's very nice. I'll try to hack sewing it myself. It doesn't work. The silicone bed, which is this red colour piece here is a silicone needle from Aliexpress. It's 12 volts, 170 volts. Which means it's a 24 cm diameter. Just in case the heating isn't uniform, I have a 20 mm aluminum plate. So let's access my heat spreader. It also gives me a surface I can stick with the silicone thing because I need something rigid. If I stick it to glass, one day I'm going to shatter my glass and then I'll need a few of the bits. I don't know whether that heatsink is really in there. So I decided I'll just play in the 20 bucks and get this little cut aluminum next door. Oh, for greens too. Oh, and these green things, these are tonal pads for heat sets. I used it because it gives you a bit of friction to your glasses. I wanted my glass to fit perfectly on this thing but evidently the glass is smaller than the silicone heater. So no matter how I clamp this thing in, I can't get it to hold the glass. Unless I designed it for specifically the glass side. I actually saw an interesting design where someone would make this taller and then use screws to push the glass. Oh, basically holding the position. It all actually exists. What's up for you? This is Brother Face. Brother Face running, controlling the volume, running on the Sanguinolonga. Sanguinolonga. Oh my god, it's a bonus. I can't see. The Sanguinolonga actually has terminals for the heated bed. There's a wall spread there that controls the heated bed. But the traces of the PCB are not thick enough for the kind of current that is being provided. So that's why I have this custom arrangement. Oh, I see. The relays is like on or off? On or off. Okay, so it's a solid-state relay. It's on or off. The insulation is bulging out and I'm not surprised. So how much did you spend on parts together? But that's not counting the screws. Screws apparently are not that cheap. They're cheap when you use them in ones and twos. But when you use them in hundreds, they're not cheap anymore. I buy them 50 at a time. My last batch of screws was about $6. It all adds up. So for this, the current rating is for $1.2, which is something like that. And the current one is taken $5. I needed to get a lower voltage rating for this type of motor because if you get one that's rated too high, it ends up being significantly more resistant to the side. Because the stepper drivers do not know why. They're not able to bump up. Oh, okay. That's the stepper drivers on the board. There's a trim cut there. All degrees? Yes. All right. So the trim cost is a test cost. Test that against the round case. And then the line. From that you can calculate how much current you want. This gives you a voltage. And you take that and you buy it. Right. So how about this? So what's the way around here? This is a nylon. I have no idea how much they were. I hope that they don't swear on my phone. I mean, I have a brand new one. But nylon itself is a very good one. So what made you decide to build that car rather than that? Because we have a car GCA. Oh, okay, you're ready. Flash watch creator. What do you guys think? Yeah. The interesting part of a Delta is that it looks nice. It looks great to watch. I know. So have you found this to be more accurate than the previous one? No, probably not. I have not really influenced it. I found that you can get significantly better quality from a Delta and mine to print very high speeds. Oh. This is a gear. This is a 250mm sensor. The PCBs are in the Cartesian image. Oh really? Especially these photos. When you get these photos, the Cartesian tends to slam down. Okay, basically it doesn't know how to slow down the longest and circles the most difficult acceleration. So you need to start copying. Okay. It doesn't lose any steps, but it jacks. I was waiting for you for this. Oh, okay. Well, thanks for your explanation. I appreciate it. Ah? Uh... I shouldn't have started a print. Why? Because now you can't...