 Chapter 11 of A Voyage in the Sunbeam by Anna Brassi. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Recording by Davy Cross, Taos, New Mexico. Santiago and Valparaiso. Gems of the changing autumn, how beautiful you are, shining from your glassy stems like many a golden star. Thursday, October 26th. Our kind hostess at Lota had given us a letter of introduction to her manager at Santiago, who called this morning to inquire what arrangements he could make, which would be most agreeable to us during our stay. She had also given orders that her carriages and horses should be placed at our disposal. And at about 10 o'clock, we all started in an open break, drawn by a pair of good-looking half-bred brown horses, bigger than any we had seen before in this country. We went first to the Campania, a large open square planted with flowers, the site of the old Jesuit church, which was burnt down on December 8th, 1863. Well known as the story is, I may here recall the tragic details standing on the very spot where they took place. It was the Feast of the Virgin, and the church was densely crowded with a congregation composed, almost entirely of women, principally young, many of whom were servant girls. Some of the draperies used in the decoration of the building caught fire. The flames spread rapidly, destroying in their course the cords by which the numerous paraffin and oil lamps were suspended across the nave and aisles, and precipitating their burning contents upon the people beneath. The great doors opened inwards. The crowd, trying to press out, closed them and kept them hermetically sealed. The priests, anxious to save the church properties and sacred relics, shut the large iron gates across the chancel and kept them fastened, notwithstanding the agonizing shrieks of the unhappy victims, many of whom might otherwise have escaped. Their conduct on this terrible occasion created at the time a feeling of bitter and universal indignation, and caused a shock to the popularity and authority of the priesthood in this country, from which it will take them a long time to recover. Mr. Long told us that between 7 and 8 o'clock on the evening of the catastrophe, he was walking with some friends on the Alameda when he saw a smoke rising in dense volumes from the quarter of the city, where the house in which he resided was situated. He and his friends ran quickly in the direction of the fire, giving the alarm as they went, and on reaching the church, they found the doors closely shut while fearful screams were issuing from the interior and smoke and flames pouring from the windows. They got a party of men together accustomed to the use of the lasso, no difficult task here, and with them climbed from the neighboring houses to the top of the church. Making a hole in the roof, they then dropped their lasso over some of the women beneath, and so dragged them out of the building, but the number thus saved was necessarily very small and it happened too often that many of the poor creatures below in their eagerness to escape hung on to the legs or body of the one they saw lassoed and by their weight literally dragged her to pieces. Sometimes even a lasso broke and those clinging to it when almost within reach of safety were again precipitated into the burning mass below. Anyone who has seen a raw hide lasso capable of withstanding the sudden rush of the fiercest bull ever captured will be able to realize the immense strain which would be required to cause one to give way. The next morning at daybreak, the interior of the church presented a terrible spectacle. Mr. Long described it as being full of women standing up tightly wedged together, their hands stretched out as if in an attitude of supplication, their faces and the upper part of their bodies charred beyond recognition, the lower part from the waist downwards completely untouched. Their remains were buried in one large grave in the cemetery of the Recaleta and the spot is now marked by a square piece of ground full of bright flowers enclosed by iron railings almost hidden by the creepers that entwined them and shaded by willows, orange trees, cypresses and pomegranates. In the center is a large cross and on either side of the iron railings there is a marble tablet with a simple but touching inscription in Spanish. Encendio de la Iglesia de la Campanilla el 8 de diciembre, 1863, Restos de las Victimas, 2000, más o menos. Burning of the church of the Campanilla, December the 8th, 1863, remains of the victims, 2000 more or less. Almost every household in Santiago had lost one of its members. One lovely girl of 17 was pulled out through the roof and taken to Madame Cosino's residence where she lay for nearly a fortnight. She suffered the greatest agonies but was sensible to the last and gave a graphic account of the whole harrowing scene. The site of the church hallowed by such sad memories has never been built upon but is preserved as an open space surrounded by a strip of garden and having in its center a finely carved monument. The houses of Congress were the next thing we went to see after which we drove through a great part of the city and over a handsome bridge with statues and small niches on either side. Beneath it, however, there is little more than a dry torrent bed and it is said that an American when visiting this spot with a Santiago friend who was showing him round remarked, I guess you ought either to buy a river or sell this here bridge. We also went to the church of La Recoleta. From the church we went to the cemetery of the same name which is prettily laid out and well stocked with flowers and trees. It being now past 11 o'clock we began to think about breakfast and accordingly returned to the hotel where I was disappointed to find no news from Tom and no answer to the telegram I sent last night. At one o'clock we started again and had a pleasant but rather dusty drive of eight miles to Macul, the stead farm established by the late Dandue Cusino. We had some luncheon at Mr. Canning's house in a room that had recently been split from top to bottom by an earthquake and afterwards we sat in the veranda to see the horses and some of the cattle which were brought round for our inspection. Amongst them were Fanforan, Fandango and other beautiful thoroughbreds, three fine Cleveland coach horses, Suffolk cart horses and persherons and some of the young stock. We saw only a few of the beasts as at this time they are away feeding on the hills but I believe they are as good as the horses. Mr. Long had arranged for us all to ride round the farm and I was mounted on a lovely chestnut mare, 16 hands high, daughter of Fanforan and niece to Kettledrum. I should have liked to have bought her and sent her home but she was not for sale though her value was 400 pounds. English horses here are as dear in proportion as native horses are cheap. The latter may be bought for from 20 to $60 a piece and some of them make capital little hacks. We rode all over the farm attended by half a dozen peons who drove the young thoroughbred stock together in the enormous fields for us to see and afterwards did the same thing with some of the cattle. We also went through the farm buildings in one part of which we saw the operation of making lassos. The best are composed of neatly platted strips of cured hide about a quarter of an inch wide. The commoner sort being made from an undressed cow's hide with the hair on cut from the center in an ever increasing circle so that they are in one piece, many yards in length. In another part of the farm, there were a few acres more of flower gardens, orange trees and kitchen gardens. Beautiful as the whole place is, it loses much in interest from its vastness. You never seem to know where you are or when you have come to an end. I hear that Madame Cosigno talks of extending the park still further right up into the mountains which seems almost a pity as it is already too big to be kept in really perfect order even with 120 men employed upon it. Everything is completely surrounded and overgrown with flowers. Even the fields are separated by hedges of sweet smelling double pink roses and these hedges are larger than many of bullfinch in the old country. After a delightful gallop of about two hours, we returned to the farmhouse where we found a fresh pair of horses waiting for us in the break and drove back to Santiago by moonlight. It was eight o'clock when we reached the hotel and as the top to oat dinner only lasts from five till half past seven, I asked for a private dinner in our own room or in the general dining room for our own party and two guests in addition. But the landlord said he was not at all sure about giving us dinner. He must see what there was in the kitchen first. We then declared we would go and dine at a cafe and in less than half an hour managed to get an excellent little dinner at the Cafe Santiago. Though even Mr. Long who ordered it for us could not induce them to give us native wine. I am bound to confess however that we punished ourselves at least as much as the landlord for as we paid so much a day for board and lodging he was of course bound to provide us with dinner and we had thus to pay for our food twice over. Friday, October 27th. Still no news from Tom. Mr. Long called at half past eight to take me to the market and my first step was to send another telegram this time taking care to see that it really was dispatched. We then walked through the streets to the market hall a handsome iron building, commodiously arranged which was sent out from England pieces and put together here. All rounded our stalls where you can get a capital breakfast generally consisting of coffee, tender beef steak, buttered toast and boiled beans for a small sum. One of our party who had been at the market since half past five tried one and fully confirmed the report we had heard as to their excellence and cleanliness. At the time of our visit all these refreshment stalls were crowded and I felt rather tempted to join one of the hungry Mary looking groups myself. The market was well supplied with meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and flowers of all kinds, green peas, French beans and strawberries being specially abundant. There were quantities of queer looking baskets to be seen and some curious pottery made by the nuns from a kind of cement. Outside the building there were men and women hanging about with ponchos of their own manufacturer which they had brought in from the country for sale. We bought some bright specimens as presents for the children but it took some time to collect them as each individual had only one to offer. They are the work of the women in the intervals of household labor and as soon as one is completed it is sold in order that materials for a fresh one may be purchased. We also bought some of the carved wooden stirrups made in the country and used by all the natives. They are rather like a small coal scuttle in shape and must be heavy and cumbersome. From the market we went to hear high mass of the cathedral. This is a fine building though the interior seemed very dark. The high altar was illuminated by hundreds of candles whose light shone on a crowd of kneeling women all dressed in black and with black veils over their heads. The contrast between their somber appearance and the gilding and paintings on the walls handsome at a distance but tawdry on a closer examination being very striking. The organ is of splendid tone and quality and reverberated grandly through the aisles and the whole scene was not without a certain impressiveness. I had not thought of paying a visit to the cathedral when I went out this morning and it was not until I saw everyone staring at me that I remembered I had committed the terrible mistake of going to church in a hat and without any veil but we remained in a dark corner most of the time and emerged into open daylight again before any of the authorities of the place had time to observe or remonstrate with me. My wearing a hat was however quite as much against all church rules as a similar proceeding on the part of a man would have been. The women of this city are almost always good looking when young and they glide gracefully about the streets in their long black clinging gowns and mantos by which they are completely enveloped from head to foot. In the afternoon we went for a drive in the park and to see Santa Lucia of which as the only hill in Santiago the inhabitants of the city are very proud. And from then strove to the Cosimio park an extensive piece of ground near the Alameda laid out and arranged under the direction of the late Don Luis Cosimio and presented by him to the city of Santiago. After a stroll around the park Mr. Long took us to an emporium for Panama hats which are made in Lima, Guayaquil and other states of Chile as well as in Panama from a special kind of grass split very fine and worn by almost everybody on this coast. The best made cost $340 or about 60 guineas and 50 pounds is not at all an uncommon price to pay though the inferior kind may be had for two pounds. Those ordinarily worn by the gentlemen here cost from 20 to 30 pounds each but they are so light, pliable and elastic that they will wear forever, wash like a pocket handkerchief, do not get burnt by the sun and can be rolled up and sat upon in fact ill treated in any way you like without fear of their breaking, tearing or getting out of shape. For the yacht however, where so many hats are lost overboard they would I fear prove a rather unprofitable investment. We now drove back to the hotel past the Mint a handsome building guarded by soldiers and with windows protected by iron gratings. On our return I found that one of the valuable panchas given to me in the Argentine Republic had been taken from our room. The landlord declined to trouble himself about its recovery as he said it was most unlikely that anyone would take a thing of no value to him here. The real truth being that the guanaco panchas are worth nearly double as much in Chile as they are on the other side of the Andes. After dinner we walked to the theater where we saw La Cereambula well put on the stage and well summon acted by an Italian opera company. The Prima Donna, Contralto, Baritone and Bass were all good, but the scenery was occasionally somewhat deficient. The house which is highly decorated, perhaps too much so for the lady's dresses, looked well by night, though if it had been full the effect would have been still better. The box tiers are not divided into pigeonholes as they are with us and everybody can therefore see equally well. The presidential box seemed commodious and handsome and had the Chilean coat of arms in front of it making it look very much like a royal box. The walk back by moonlight was delightful. Some of our party afterwards went to the Union Club where they met several English gentlemen who were most kind and pressing in their invitations to them to stay a few days longer and go up the mountains to see the views and to have some guanaco shooting. About 24 hours from here they say you can have your first shot and a little further on you meet them in herds which may be counted by thousands. There are also wild horses and wild donkeys. Quaggas and humiles used to be found, but are now extinct. The last named is a rare animal exactly resembling a horse in every particular except that it's hoofs are cloven. It used only to be found in the mountains of Chile and it is one of the supporters of the National Coat of Arms. Saturday, October 28th. At 5 a.m. we were called and soon afterwards parting gifts of flowers began to arrive and even I was obliged to confess that four large clothes baskets full of rose buds were more than I quite knew what to do with. At 7, Mr. Long came to know if he could help us in any way and a little later, Madame Cusino's coachman appeared with the carriage to take us to the station. We had a pleasant drive down the Alameda the sun shining brilliantly in a bright blue sky and the distant mountains for the first time being clearly visible. The station was crowded with vendors of pottery, curious things in buffalo horn, sweet meats, et cetera. The rolling stock on this line is of English manufacture and we were therefore put into the too familiar close stuffy first class carriage and duly locked up for the journey down to Valparaiso. The line running as it does through the mountain gorges for a great portion of the way must have been a difficult one to make. Just now the whole country wears a gold intent from the bloom of the Espinoza which seems to grow everywhere and which is now in perfection. The branches of the shrug are so completely covered with little yellow balls of flowers which come before the leaves and which have no separate stock but grow along the shiny, horny branches that they look as if they were made of gold. It is called the burning bush here and its wood is said to be the hardest in the country. The flowers are often plucked off and dried in which state they are most fragrant and are used for senting linen and for keeping away moths. The thorns, however, are a terrible nuisance to the shepherds and owners of cattle, catching their clothes and tearing them as they gallop swiftly across over the plains. If I bore you by saying too much about the flowers, forgive me, I want to make you all realize if possible what a lovely flowery land Chile is. The whole air is quite perfumed with roses, principally large double pink roses, something like the old fashioned cabbage rose, though there are a good many of the monthly kind and a few white and deep scarlet ones. They formed hedge rows on either side of the road and in many places climbed 30 or 40 feet of the trees and then threw down long brambles laden with bloom, almost producing the effect of a wall of pink. There were also plenty of wildflowers of other sorts, such as scarlet and white lilies, lark spurs, echelotias, evening prim roses, and many others whose names I do not know. At Yayay, we stopped for breakfast, procured at a small restaurant at the station. While waiting for the train for Santiago to come in, we had plenty of time to observe the half Indian girl selling fruit, flowers, cakes, et cetera and jabbering away in a sort of patois Spanish in recommendation of their wares. Some of them were really pretty and all were picturesquely dressed in bright colored stuffs, their hair neatly done up and decorated with flowers, their faces clean and smiling. At 11, 15 a.m., we reached Quilota, where the train was literally besieged by men, women and children offering bouquets for sale, two or three of which were thrust in at every carriage window and baskets of strawberries, cherimoyas, nasperos, melons, oranges, sugarcane, plantain, bananas, asparagus, green peas, French beans, eggs, chickens and even fish, nice little pecheries, fresh from the stream close by. It must evidently be the custom of the chilenos to visit by rail these fertile districts for the purpose of doing their marketing, for the occupants of the train soon absorbed the entire stock of the vendors who were left with empty baskets. I never saw such a country as this is for eggs and chickens. A hen seems never to have a smaller brood than 10 and I have often counted from 17 to 21 chickens with the mother and more than once as many as 24. However well you may have breakfasted or dined, the waiters always come at the end of the meal to ask not whether you will have any eggs but how you will have them, fried, boiled, poached or in some sort of omelet. If you refuse altogether the chances are that two very lightly boiled eggs will be placed by your side with the suggestion that you should beat them up and drink them. The inhabitants of the country always seem to finish their meals with eggs in some form or another. The celebrated Bell of Quilota, a mountain which derives its name from its peculiar shape and which serves as a good landmark in entering the harbor of Valparaiso is well seen from the railway, a little below Quilota station. We stopped again at Limash, a little village situated in the midst of a fertile country, about 25 miles from Valparaiso, where fruit, flowers, et cetera, were as freely offered for sale as before and again at Viña del Mar, the next station to Valparaiso. There is a good hotel here in the midst of a pretty garden where you can get an excellent breakfast or dinner. From this spot, the line runs close along the edge of the sea and we strained our eyes in vain trying to discover the yacht. At the station, we were assailed by porters and touts of every description, but seeing no one to meet us and not knowing where to go, we contented ourselves with collecting our luggage at a little heap while a fight went on close by between a policeman and a coachman who had been too persistent in his endeavors to obtain a fare. They knocked one another about a good deal and broke one or two windows, after which they appeared quite satisfied, shook hands, and were good friends again. Tom, Mabel, and Muriel arrived before it was over and we were very glad to meet again after our short absence. A long dusty drive brought us to the mole and while the luggage was being packed into the boat, Tom and I went to call on the British consul where we found some letters. We were on board in time for two o'clock luncheon, after which, amid many interruptions from visitors, we devoured our news from home and other parts. For amongst our letters were some from Natal, India, Japan, Canada, Tenerife, South American ports, St. Petersburg, Constantinople, and several other places besides those from dear old England. About four o'clock, Tom and I went ashore. We had intended going alone in the flash, our lightest boat, but a strong southerly wind had sprung up, which at once made the sea so rough that we went in the gleam, the gig, instead with six oars. It took the men all their time to get us ashore, though we had not far to go, for wind, tide, and waves were all against us. Valparaiso consists mainly of two interminable streets running along the edge of the sea at the foot of the hills, which rise immediately behind them and on which are built all the residences and villas of the gentlemen of the place. Very few live in the town itself, which is composed almost entirely of large warehouses and fine shops, where you can get almost anything you want by paying between three and four times as much for it as you would do in England. For instance, the charge for haircutting is a dollar and a half for shillings. A three and six penny let's diary costs two dollars and a half, 10 shillings. A tall hat costs 58 shillings. You must pay six pence each for parchment, luggage labels, three pence apiece for quill pens, four shillings for a choir of common note paper, and so on in proportion. We had, as I have said, seen the yacht leave Lote Bay with a strong headwind blowing on Thursday, the 19th instant. In a few hours, the wind fell to a calm, which then changed to a light favorable breeze and the sunbeam reached Valparaiso on the following Saturday afternoon, anchoring out in the bay, not far from HMS Opal. Here they rolled and tumbled about even more than if they had been at sea, the swinging capacities of the saloon tables and lamps being tried to the utmost. On Sunday, half the men went ashore for a few hours leave, but neither they nor the boat returned until the next morning as they had not been allowed to leave the shore after nine o'clock. In the meantime, Tom had been told that smallpox was raging in the town and he was much annoyed at their having to pass the night on shore, owing to proper inquiries as to the regulations of the port, not having been made by them on landing. The next day, the doctor went to see some medical confray at the hospital and found that the reports were much exaggerated. The reality being that smallpox is always more or less prevalent, both here and at Santiago. Three months ago it was very bad, but at the present time it is not worse than usual. Tom and Mabel started for Santiago on Monday, but unfortunately left their letters of introduction behind and as they did not like the hotel, they found it rather dull. We could not telegraph to them from Cacenas or anywhere en route for there were no wires. So on Wednesday morning, not hearing or seeing anything of us, they returned to Valparaiso. Tom left a long letter for me with enclosures, which I never received. In the innkeeper's hands, asking for a telegraphic reply as to our plans and intentions, and as I have already mentioned, never said a word about coming back. Thursday was spent in seeing what little there is to see in Valparaiso and in visiting the opal. On Friday, Tom went for a sale, moved the yacht close and sure, had a dinner party on board and went to a pleasant ball afterwards, given by the Philharmonic Society, an association of the same sort as the one at Rio. It was not, however, called a regular ball, but a teriulia, so the ladies were in demi toilette. Tom described the room as good, the floor first rate, the music excellent, the ladies good looking and the men agreeable. Today he met us at the station with the children and now therefore one account will describe the movements of the whole reunited party. Sunday, October 29th. We all went ashore to church, having been told it was only five minutes walk from the landing place, instead of which it took us at least a quarter of an hour in an intensely hot sun to climb up a steep hill. The building itself was large, airy and cool and there is a good organ and choir, but most of the choristers had gone away today to a picnic in the country. During the litany, our attention was suddenly drawn to the fact that earthquakes are a matter of frequent occurrence in this country by a special prayer being offered up for preservation from them and their destructive effects. At four o'clock we went ashore for a ride and having climbed the hills at the back of the town which command extensive views over land and sea, we galloped across the downs and through some villages onto the old high road from Valparaiso to Santiago, along which we rode only for a few yards, turning off into a romantic valley where the path was so narrow that we could barely squeeze through between the thickly growing shrubs and trees. At last we went up a steep hill onto another high road and re-entered the town quite at the opposite end to that at which we had left it, after which a ride of two miles along the stony, ill-paved streets brought us to the landing place. Monday, October 30th, we were to be off directly the sea breeze spraying up at about 11 o'clock and as I had many letters to write, I was called at four a.m. and finished them all before breakfast at eight. But first one visitor and then another arrived and it was nearly 11 o'clock when we landed to make the final preparations for starting on our long voyage of 11,000 miles across the Pacific. Our route, as at present arranged, will be via the society, friendly and sandwich islands. Juan Fernandez, Robinson Crusoe's Island, which we at first thought of visiting, we have been obliged, I am sorry to say, to give up, not on account of its distance from Valparaiso as it is only 270 miles off, but because it lies too far to the southward and is consequently quite out of the track of the trade wind, which we ought to pick up according to the charts and sailing directions, about 500 miles to the northward and westward of this place. I have been trying to persuade Tom to steam out five or 600 miles so that we may make a quick passage and economize our time as much as possible, but he is anxious to do the whole voyage under sail and we are therefore taking very little coal on board in order to be in the best trim. If we do not pick up a wind, however, there is no knowing how long we may lull up about. I suppose till we are short of water and fresh provisions when the fires will be lighted and we shall steam away to the nearest island, uninhabited, we will hope, or at any rate, peopled by friendly natives, which is rather the exception than the rule in the southeast corner of the low archipelago. There we shall fill up with fresh water, bananas, breadfruit, and perhaps a wild hog or two and resume our voyage to Tahiti, but this is the least favorable view of the matter and we must hope to fall in with the trade soon and that they will blow strong and true. The island of Juan Fernandez now belongs to the Chilean government but is led on a long lease to a man who, they say here, is somewhat of a robber. He was very desirous that we should give him a passage in the yacht and another man wanted to come too with some pointers to show us the best spots for game, goats, turtle, crayfish, and sea fish with all of which the place abounds. Some cattle have also been introduced and the island is much frequented by whalers who go there for fresh provisions and water. There is nothing particular to be seen, however, and the scenery of the island is not remarkable, at least so people who have been there tell us and the photographs I have bought quite confirm their report. Admiral Simpson, who stayed there once for a fortnight told us a good deal about the place and strongly recommended us not to go there unless we had plenty of time to spare as we should not be repaid for our trouble which would probably only result in the dissipation of all our childish illusions. Our first step on landing this morning was to go to the consuls to post our letters. By the by, I hope people in England will appreciate them for they cost between nine and 10 pounds to send home. For our outward letters, although prepaid in England, we had to pay over eight pounds before we were allowed to have them from the office. 29 cases of stores, provisions, wine, et cetera, which had also been sent out all arrived safely and cost comparatively little. There are very good French hairdressers here, a tempting hat shop, and a well-stocked bookshop, but everything, as I have said, is frightfully dear. It was half past three when the harbor tug arrived to tow us out of the harbor and so save our getting up steam. There was not a breath of air stirring, but Tom hoped we should find more outside when the tug cast us off. As we dropped slowly out, we had a good view of the harbor and town and we soon found ourselves once more fairly embarked on the bosom of the wide ocean. End of chapter 11. Chapter 12 of A Voyage in the Sunbeam by Anna Brassie. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Recording by Davy Cross, Taos, New Mexico. Thou Paraiso to Tahiti. The western sea was all aflame. The day was well-nigh done. Almost upon the western wave rested the broad-bright sun. Tuesday, October 31st. Throughout the night, a flat calm prevailed. The morning was wet and foggy or we might still have seen Valparaiso and perhaps have had a peep at Akancagua. There was a light contrary wind from the northwest throughout the day. In the afternoon, we saw two whales blowing in the distance. Wednesday, November 1st. An almost calm day with a few light showers and fitful but unfavorable breezes. Some 30 or 40 little birds which the sailors called mother-carries chickens but which were smaller and more graceful than any I have seen of that name followed closely in our wake. I was never tired of watching the dainty way in which they just touched the tips of the waves with their feet and then started off afresh like a little maiden skipping and hopping along from sheer exuberance of spirit. Thursday, November 2nd. A bright sunny morning with a heavy swell and light contrary wind but the sea became more tranquil towards the evening. The sunset was superb and the afterglow as is often the case in these latitudes lighted up sky and sea with an indescribable beauty which attained its greatest magnificence about five minutes after the sun had disappeared reminding one of the glorious sunsets of the African deserts so often described by travelers. Friday, November 3rd. Still a blue sky, bright sun shines smooth sea and light headwind. The crew have all turned to tailors and are making themselves new suits from some dungaree we bought at Valparaiso the clothes we expected for them not having met us there. Saturday, November 4th. As fine as ever, this is certainly sailing luxuriously if not swiftly. We have now settled down into our regular sea ways and have plenty to do on board so the delay does not much signify. Still our time is limited and we all hope to fall in with the trades shortly to carry us to Tahiti or some of the South Sea islands. We caught half a dozen of the little petrels for stuffing by floating lines of black cotton astern in which they became entangled. Tonight's sunset was more superb than ever. Each moment produced a new and ever increasingly grand effect. I mean to try and take an instantaneous photograph of one. It would not of course reproduce all the marvelous shades of coloring but it would perhaps give some idea of the forms of the masses of cloud which are finer than any I ever saw before. This ocean seems to give one in a strange way a sense of solemn vastness which was not produced to the same extent by the Atlantic. Whether this results from our knowledge of its size or whether it is only fancy I cannot say but it is an impression which we all share. Sunday, November 5th. Fine and considerably hotter though not unpleasantly so. We had the litany at 11 and evening prayers in discernment at four o'clock. Not a single ship has passed within sight since we left Valparaiso and the only living creatures we have seen are some albatrosses, a few white boobies, a cape hen, the little petrels already mentioned, a shoal of porpoises and two whales. Monday, November 6th. Passed at 3 a.m. today, a large bark steering south and at 8 a.m. a full rigged ship steering the same course. We held, as we do with every ship we pass, a short conversation with her through the means of the mercantile code of signals. This habit of exchanging signals afterwards proved to have been a most useful practice for when the report that the sunbeam had gone down with all hands was widely circulated through England, I might almost say the world, for we found the report had preceded us by telegram to almost all the late reports we touched at. The anxiety of our friends was relieved many days sooner than it would otherwise have been by the fact of our having spoken the German steamer, Sakara, in the Magellan Straits, October 13th, four days after we were supposed to have gone to the bottom. The weather continues fine and we have the same light baffling winds. We hoped when we started to average at least 200 miles a day, but now we have been a week at sea and have only made good a little more than 700 miles altogether that we have sailed over 800 miles through the water. It is however wonderful in the opinion of the navigators that we have made even as much progress as this, considering the very adverse circumstances under which the voyage has so far been performed and we must endeavor to console ourselves with the reflection that the sailing qualities of the yacht have undergone another severe test in a satisfactory manner. How the provisions and water will last out and what time we shall leave ourselves to see anything of Japan are questions which nevertheless occasionally present themselves to our minds. Endependently of such considerations, nothing could be more luxurious and delightful than our present mode of existence. With perfect weather, plenty of books to read and writing to do, no possibility of interruptions, one can map out one's day and dispose of one's time exactly as one pleases until the half past six o'clock dressing bell which always seems to come long before it is wanted recalls one to the duties and necessities of life. Wednesday, November 8th, a gray cloudy morning and a flat calm at 12 o'clock to the great joy of everybody on board, Tom decided to get up steam as we have now been becalmed quite 24 hours and have made but little progress in the right direction for some days. The clarity with which the order to stow sails and raise the funnel was obeyed, everyone lending a hand and the delight expressed on every countenance must have assured him of at least the popularity of his decision. Whilst we were waiting for steam to be got up, Tom took Muriel and me for a row in the flash, his own particular little boat with about four inches of freeboard. The possibility of doing this will give you a better idea of the tranquility of this vast ocean than any description I can write. At the same time, when we wanted to get into the boat, we found there was a considerable roll on and that it was no easy matter without the aid of a gangway or ladder. We rode a little way from the yacht and considering how quiet it had seemed to us when on board, it was wonderful to observe how she rolled in the trough of the sea without sails to study her or motive power to guide her. The lota coals, though black and dirty beyond description burn up very quickly. And in about an hour, we were steaming merrily along the Arabian horseshoe on our bowsprit's end being now pointed direct for the island of Tahiti instead of for wherever the wind chose to blow us. Thursday, November 9th, a flat calm at 6 a.m., a very light, fair wind at 9 a.m. In spite of my remonstrances, Tom determined at half past nine to cease steaming and try sailing again. About 12 o'clock, a puff came that sent us along at the rate of 10 and a half knots for a short time but it soon dropped and during the rest of the afternoon and evening, our average speed was only three or four knots an hour. This is very poor work for the trades but I don't believe we are really in them yet in spite of the wind charts. It is possible that they may vary in different years besides which it is now the height of summer with the sun south of the line which would naturally make them lighter. Saturday, November 11th. At last we seem to be feeling the influence of the trades as the wind continues to blow from the same direction though it varies much in force. Sometimes we are going along at the rate of 11 and three quarters knots, sometimes barely five. In the afternoon, we had the usual Saturday singing practice. Sunday, November 12th, another lovely day. We had the litany and hymns at 11, evening service and sermon at four. Just before morning church, someone turned on the water in the nursery bath and forgot to turn it off again so that when we came aft from the saloon we had the pleasure of finding everything in the children's cabins afloat and that a good deal of water had got down into the hold. It was rather annoying at the time but I daresay like many other present troubles it was a good thing in the end. It obliged us at any rate to have all the stores brought up on deck and led to our taking an inventory of our resources sooner than we should otherwise have done. I am sorry to say we found that owing to the departure of our head steward and the illness of his successor they have not been husbanded as carefully as they should have been especially those provided for use forward. Sailors are more like children than grown up men and require as much looking after. While there is water in the tanks for instance they will use it in the most extravagant manner without thought for the morrow and they are quite as reckless with their other stores. I find however that one of the drawbacks to taking a very close personal interest in the housekeeping arrangements on board is the two intimate acquaintance one makes with various individuals composing the livestock. The result being that the private particular history of every chicken, duck, turkey and joint of mutton is apt to be remembered with a damaging effect to appetite. In the afternoon two boobies the first birds we have seen for some days paid us a visit. I suppose we are too far out to see anything more of our pretty little friends, the Petrels. Monday, November 13th. We had a regular turnout in rearrangement of our stores today and discovered that the waste and mismanagement have been greater even than we at first supposed. Fortunately we found some spare tins of provisions stowed away under the nursery floor and forgotten and which will now come in very opportunity. But I fear that even as it is we may be seriously inconvenienced before getting to the end of our voyage. Of the six sheep, 60 chickens, 30 ducks and four dozen pigeons brought on board alive at Valparaiso, we have comparatively few left and not a great deal to give those few to eat. So we must depend mainly on our potted meats and vegetables which happen to be excellent. We often wonder how the earlier navigators got on when there were no such things as tinned provisions and when the facilities for carrying water were of the poorest description while they were often months and months at sea without an opportunity of replenishing their stores and with no steam power to fall back upon in case they were becalmed. Still more wonderful in my opinion is the successful manner in which the Spaniards managed to convey their hordes and tiny vessels together with a sufficient quantity of forage for them to the new world where according to all accounts they generally arrived in good condition, fit to go to work or to war immediately. The wind increased in the evening and blew dead aft. In the middle of the night the miz and halyards broke and blocks and all came down with a tremendous crash which caused both Tom and me to rush up on deck. About an hour and a half's work put everything straight again however, though it looked a sad mess at first. We had been remarking at dinner how lucky we had been with all this rolling about in calms and running before the wind not to have had anything carried away or any of the ropes chaffed. Personally, I think the accident is not to be regretted for now all the foreign aft canvas is stowed and we are running under square canvas alone which is much steadier work that we still roll considerably. Tuesday, November 14th, fine with a strong fair wind I have been laid up for a few days with a touch of my old enemy Syrian fever but I'm gradually recovering and enjoy very much lying on deck and reading. Our victiculing arrangements have now been satisfactorily settled and everybody has been put on an allowance of water our supply of which will last the whole ship's company of 40 persons for five weeks leaving one tank still in reserve in case of accidents. As we expect to reach our destination in about three weeks from the present time we have therefore I hope an ample supply for all our requirements. Wednesday, November 15th. Pleasant as we have found life at sea in the South Pacific hitherto it is I fear monotonous to read about and I dare say you will find it difficult to realize how quickly the days fly past and how sorry we are when each one comes to an end. I am afraid they are among those things which do not repeat themselves. At any rate, they afford a golden opportunity for reading such as we are not likely to have again often if ever in our busy lives and Tom and I are endeavoring to make the best use of it by getting through as many of the 700 volumes we brought with us as possible. The weather favors us in our endeavors to be industrious for while it is sufficiently warm to indispose one for a very severe course of study it has never been so hot as to compel us to lie down and do nothing but gasp for breath which is what we were warned to expect. There is indeed one slight drawback to the perfect enjoyment of our present state of existence and that is the incessant motion of the vessel. When she rolls as quickly as she has done today it is difficult to settle down steadily to any occupation and at last one cannot help feeling aggravated at the persistent manner in which everything including oneself refuses to be still for a single instant. Thursday, November 16th, today it is really warm not to say hot with a bright cloudless sky which renders an awning acceptable. We saw some boas and birds for the first time and more shows of flying fish. I wish a few of the latter would come on board. They would be an agreeable addition to our breakfast table. The rolling still continues the wind being dead aft and nothing but our square canvas being set. The effect is rather wearisome and one longs to be able to say catch hold of our head and keep her still if only for five minutes peace and quietness. Cooking is difficult and even eating is a hazardous occupation and at our evening game of cards we have to pocket our counters and markers and hold on as best we can. Friday, November 17th. At 8 a.m. the course was altered. Our four and a half canvas was set again and we were once more gliding along swiftly and smoothly through the water to the great relief of everyone on board. The day was lovely and though it was warm a pleasant breeze throughout the ship prevented our feeling uncomfortably hot. Saturday, November 18th. The days are so much alike that it is difficult to find anything special to say about them. They fly so quickly that I was surprised to be reminded by the usual seeking practice this afternoon that another week had gone by. The two green pericuts, Coco and Meta given to me by Mr. Fisher at Rosario have turned out dear little pets with the most amusing ways. They are terrible thieves especially of sugar, pencils, pens and paper and being nearly always at liberty they follow me about just like dogs and coax and caress me with great affection. They do not care much for anyone else though they are civil to all and good tempered even to the children who I am afraid rather bore them with their attempts at petting. The other foreign birds of which I have a large collection are doing well and I begin to hope I shall get them home safely after all. We had at one time about 20 parrots belonging to the men on board all running about on deck forward with their wings clipped but about half of them have been lost overboard. The dogs keep their health and spirits wonderfully. Thelias is quite young again and she and Lulu have great games tearing up and down and around the decks as hard as they can go. Sunday, November 19th. I am convalescent at last and appeared at breakfast this morning for the first time for 10 days. The wind was very variable throughout the day. Between six and seven a.m. we were going 12 knots between seven and eight only three but as we never stop we managed to make up a fair average on the whole. At 11 o'clock we had the communion service and two hems. At midday the week's work was made up with the following result. Our position was in latitude 15 degrees 38 seconds south longitude 117 degrees 52 seconds west. We were 3,057 miles from Valparaiso 1,335 of which had been accomplished since last Sunday and 1,818 miles from Tahiti. Today we were not far from Easter Island the southernmost island of Polynesia. Here as in the Ladrones far away in the northwest quarter of the Pacific most curious inscriptions are sometimes found carved in stone annexes a photograph taken from one I saw at a later stage of the voyage. The sails had been flapping more or less all day and at the change of the dog watches at six o'clock Tom ordered the men aft to stow the mizzen. This they had scarcely begun to do when a light breeze sprang up and in a few minutes increased to a strong one before which we bowled along at the rate of nine knots. These sudden changes are of constant occurrence and coming as they do without the slightest warning are quite inexplicable. If only we had our old square sails and our bigger yards and top mast we should have saved a good deal of time already. For one or two knots an hour extra amount to from 25 to 50 miles a day. And in a month's run the difference would not be far short of 1500 miles. But we heard so much from people in England who had visited these parts of squalls and hurricanes that Tom did not like to run the risk of being over spared especially with a wife and children as passengers. Monday, November 20th. The four and aft sails were taken in as they were doing no good and the square canvas was drawing. This allowed the miz and awning to be spread making a pleasant place to sit in and a capital playground for the children who scamper about all day long and do not appear to feel the heat a bit. Tuesday, November 21st. Certainly a very hot day. We made steady progress under the same canvas as yesterday. Wednesday, November 22nd. Between two and three a.m. a nice breeze sprang up and between three and 430 a.m. all the four and aft sails were again set. It was deliciously cool on deck at that time but the sun rose fierce and hot and more or less killed the breeze as the day wore on. Thursday, November 23rd. 24 days out. We had hoped to reach Tahiti today and Tom begins to regret that he did not steam some distance out from Valparaiso so as to pick up the trades sooner. Still it is satisfactory to know how well the sunbeam can and does sail against light contrary winds and to have an opportunity of developing some of her good points of which we were previously hardly aware. How she manages to slip along as she does four or five knots an hour with not sufficient wind to blow a candle out is a marvel to everyone on board. More than once when the hand log has shown that we were going five knots, I have carried a naked light from one end of the deck to the other without it's being extinguished. The sunrise was magnificent and a splendid albatross the largest we have yet seen was at the same time visible in mid-air floating against the rose colored clouds. He looked so grand and calm and majestic that one could almost fancy him the bird of Jove himself descending direct from the sun. Where do these birds rest? How far and how fast do they really fly? Are questions for the naturalist. We have seen the many times at a distance of at least 2,000 miles from the nearest land. About nine o'clock there was a slight breeze but it fell as the sun rose and the day was intensely hot. Friday, November 24th, a fine breeze in the early morning which however gradually died away. Having now quitted the regular track of the trade winds and got into the variables we lighted fires at two o'clock. Then another light breeze sprang up for a few minutes only to fall away again immediately and at six o'clock we commenced to steam. Saturday, November 25th, a very wet morning, the sky clearing at about 10 but the weather remaining dull, heavy, hot and oppressive throughout the day but we were making good progress under steam which rendered the state of things more durable than it would otherwise have been. Whilst I was standing on deck at night a flying fish flew against my throat and hung there caught in the lace of my dress. He is a pretty specimen but only his wings are to be preserved for Muriel will have his body for breakfast tomorrow. Sunday, November 26th, our fourth consecutive Sunday at sea and out of sight of land. At four a.m. the sails were spread to a good breeze. At seven we stopped steaming but at 10 the wind again fell light. The litany was right on deck this morning on account of the heat. The observations at noon showed that we were in latitude 15 degrees 47 seconds south, longitude 135 degrees 20 seconds west. The distance accomplished during the last 24 hours being 181 miles. We have now made good 4,067 miles from Valparaiso and our 815 miles distant from Tahiti. At five p.m. we had prayers and a sermon also on deck. It was then almost calm and at eight o'clock we again began steaming. In order to ensure our making the island of Tata Kotaroa 200 miles off before dark tomorrow. Monday, November 27th. I was on deck at 3.30 a.m. Everybody on board was more or less excited at the prospect of making land after 28 days at sea. It was a delicious morning with a favorable breeze and under steam and sail we progressed at the rate of from 10 to 11 and a half knots an hour. Several birds flew on board amongst whom were two boobies who hovered round us and appeared to examine everything with great curiosity, especially the little wind veins at the extremity of the masts. At last they settled on the four top mast whereupon one of the sailors went up to try and catch them. They observed his movements closely and appeared to be specially interested in his cap. But as he approached first one and then the other flew away for a few yards and then returned to his former position. At last the man, watching his opportunity, managed to seize one of them by his legs and bring him down in triumph, despite flapping wings and pecks from a sharp beak. He was shut up in the fowl pen, now alas, empty of its proper denizens where we had an opportunity of examining him before he was killed. He was a fine, handsome gray bird with large blue eyes and a wild hawk-like look. At one o'clock we were almost sailing over the spot marked by Findlay as the situation of Tarekotopoto or Anonymous Island, but there was nothing whatever visible in the shape of land, even from the mast head where a man was stationed and from which it was possible to see a distance of 10 or 15 miles. Tom went up himself several times and scanned the horizon carefully but in vain. It is therefore evident either that the position of the island is incorrectly stated or that it has become submerged. I believe that in these seas there are many islands marked that have no existence and that several that do exist are not marked, which renders it necessary to keep a constant good lookout. What a charming task it would be thoroughly to survey these parts and to correct the present charts where necessary and how much I should like to be one of the officers appointed for the service. At 1.30 p.m. land was sighted from the mast head and at two o'clock I saw from the deck what looked like plumes of dark ostrich feathers rising from the sea. This was the island of Tete Kotoroa, also known as Narcissus or Clark Island, to the eastward of the Palmatu or low archipelago of the South Seas. The sailing directions describe the inhabitants as hostile and Sir Edward Belcher mentions that some of them tried to cut off the boats sent from a man of war for water. We were therefore afraid to attempt a landing but sailed as near as we could to the shore, which surrounded by a rampart of snow white coral and clothed almost to the water's edge with feathery palms, coconut trees and luxuriant vegetation of various kinds looked very tempting. A few canoes were drawn up on the beach near a large hut out of which three or four natives came and having looked at us for some time ran off into the woods. Blue smoke could be seen curling up from several points of the forest, no doubt indicating the presence of more natives whose dwellings were concealed by the trees. After lunch, Tom had me hoisted up to the four topmests head in a boson's chair, which is simply a small plank suspended by ropes at the four corners and used by the men to sit on when they scraped the masts. I was very carefully secured with a rope tied around my petticoats and knocking against the various ropes on my way was then gently hoisted up to what seemed at first a giddy height but when once I got accustomed to the smallness of the seat the airiness of my perch and the increased roll of the vessel I found my position by no means an unpleasant one. Tom climbed up the rigging and joined me shortly afterwards. From our elevated post we could see plainly the formation of the island and the lagoon in the center encircled by a band of coral in some places white, bare and narrow in others wide and covered with palm trees and rich vegetation. It was moreover possible to understand better the theory of the formation of these coral islands. I was so happy up aloft that I did not care to descend and it was almost as interesting to observe what a strange and disproportionate appearance everything and everybody on board the yacht presented from my novel position as it was to examine the island we were passing. The two younger children and the dogs took the greatest interest in my aerial expedition and never ceased calling to me and barking until I was once more let down safely into their midst. As soon as we had seen all we could of the island fires were banked and we proceeded under sail alone throughout the evening and night. End of chapter 12. Chapter 13 of A Voyage in the Sunbeam by Anna Brassie. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain recording by Davy Cross, Taos, New Mexico. The South Sea Islands. And all throughout the air there reigned the sense of waking dream with luscious thoughts or laden, of joy to conscious made and too intense by the swift advent of excessive aid in bewilderment of beauty's affluence. Tuesday, November 28th. We passed Anna or Chain Island in the morning watch before daybreak. I came on deck to try and get a glimpse of it and was rewarded by a glorious sunrise. We had a nice eight-knot breeze and a strong current in our favor. And just before breakfast Tom described from the masted Amanu or Muller Island, which we had hardly expected to make before 10 or 11 o'clock. Someone remarked that it seemed almost as if it had come out to meet us. The reef encircling this island varies much in height and vegetation. In some places it supports a noble grove of trees. In others the sea breaks over the half-submerged coral bed, the first obstacle it has met for 4,000 miles with a roar like thunder. Before we had lost sight of Amanu, the island of Howe Harp or Boe Island was visible on our port bow. I wished very much to land and at last persuaded Tom who was rather anxious on the score of the natives to allow some of us to make the attempt, thus cautioning to turn away from the shore directly in case the islanders looked at all doubtful in their attitude and intentions. After lunch, therefore, we hoped to and the gig's crew were ordered to arm themselves with revolvers and rifles, which they were not to show unless required to do so. All the gentlemen had revolvers and Maybel and I were also provided with two small ones, Phillips and Muriel being the only unarmed members of the party. I took a bag full of beads, knives, looking glasses and pictures for barter and presents and with these preparations, we set off to make our first personal acquaintance with the islanders of the South Pacific. Tom gave us a tow to Windward and we then rode direct to a point on one side of the entrance to the lagoon where we saw some natives waving something white. As we approached, we could distinguish several figures standing on the point under the shade of some coconut trees and on the opposite side of the entrance, some canoes were drawn up on the beach by the side of a hut close to a large clump of low trees. We were by this time surrounded by breakers and it required no little skill to steer the boat safely through the broken water between the race of the tide on one side and the overfall from the coral reef on the other. It was successfully done, however, and having rounded the point, we found ourselves at once in the waters of the Tranquil Lagoon. We should have preferred to land at the point had it been possible as it was doubtful whether it would be safe to go around the corner and so lose sight of the yacht. The intentions of the natives seemed peaceable, several of them running into the water up to their wastes to meet us while others could be seen hurrying along the beach, the women carrying what looked like bunches of fruit. It is really impossible to describe the beauty of the scene before us. Submarine coral forests of every color studded with sea flowers and enemies and a chidna day of a brilliant sea only to be seen in dreamland. Shoals of the brightest and swiftest fish darting and flashing in and out. Shells, every one of which was fit to hold the place of honor in a conchologist's collection moving slowly along with their living inmates. This is what we saw when we looked down from the side of the boat into the depths below. The surface of the water glittered with every imaginable tint from the palest aquamarine to the brightest emerald, from the pure light blue of the turquoise to the deep dark blue of the sapphire and was dotted here and there with patches of red, brown and green coral rising from the mass below. Before us on the shore there spread the rich growth of tropical vegetation shaded by palms and coconuts and enlivened by the presence of native women in red, blue and green garments and men in motley costumes bringing fish, fowls and bunches of coconuts born like the grapes brought back from the land of Canaan by the spies on poles. As soon as we touched the shore the men rushed forward to meet us and to shake hands and having left the muskets and revolvers judiciously out of sight in the boat we were conducted to a cluster of huts made of branches or rather leaves of the palm tree tied by their foot stalks across two poles and hanging down to the ground. Here we were met by the women and children who likewise all went through the ceremony of shaking hands with us after which the head woman who was very good looking and was dressed in a cherry colored calico gown with two long plots of black hair hanging down her back spread a mat for me to sit upon just outside the hut. By this time there was quite a little crowd of people assembled round amongst whom I noticed one woman with a baby who had her hair sticking straight out all round her head and another who held a portion of her dress constantly before her face. After the gentleman had walked away she removed the cloth and I then saw that her nose had been cut off. Most of the women were good looking with dark complexions and quantities of well greased neatly platted black hair but we did not see a single young girl though there were plenty of children and babies and lots of boys. The latter of whom like some of the older women had only a piece of palm matting round their loins. We therefore came to the conclusion that the girls must have been sent away intentionally when the approach of the yacht was observed. As soon as I was seated the head woman told one of the men to knock down some coconuts from the trees close by and after cutting off the ends she offered us a drink of the fresh cool milk which was all the sweeter and better for the fact that the nuts were not nearly ripe. While this was going on the natives brought piles of coconuts, fish and vowels and laid them at our feet as a present. Some of the fish were of a dark brown color like bream. Others were long and thin with a pipe like nose and four fins somewhat resembling the wings of a flying fish. Seeing smoke in the distance rising from under some high palm trees we thought we should like to go and see when it proceeded and accordingly set off to walk through a sort of bush over sharp coral that cut one's boots terribly. The sun blazing down upon us fiercely all the time until we reached a little settlement consisting of several huts the inhabitants of which were absent. Fine platted mats for beds, coconut shells for cups, mother of pearl shells for plates and coral of various kinds and shapes for dishes and cooking utensils formed their only furniture. We saw three women, one very old with nothing but a palm leaf mat as a covering. The others dressed in the apparently universal costume consisting of a long bright colored gown put into a yoke at the shoulders and flowing then loosely to the ground which completely conceals the wearer's form even to the tips of her toes. I think these dresses must come from England or America for they are evidently machine-made and the cotton stuffed of which they are composed has the most extraordinary patterns printed on it I ever saw. Cherry and white, dark blue and yellow or white stripes red with yellow spots and blue with yellow crosses appear to be the favorite designs. The women seemed gentle and kind and were delighted with some beads looking glasses and knives I gave them in return for which they brought us quantities of beautiful shells. We saw the large iron knee of a vessel in one spot during our walk and wondered how it came there. In another place we saw a canoe in process of construction ingeniously made of boards sewed together with platted palm leaves. The canoes in use here are very high, long and narrow and are only kept from upsetting by means of a tremendous outrigger consisting of a log fastened to the extremity of two bent pieces of wood projecting sideways from each end of the boat. The only animals we met with in our ramble were four pigs and a few chickens and no other livestock of any kind was visible. No attempt seemed to be made at the cultivation of the ground and I think if there had been we must have observed it for our party separated and walked at good distance in various directions. The natives made us understand that on the other side of the entrance to the lagoon in the better sort of house we had noticed there resided a white man. He did not, however, make his appearance during our visit and I imagine he must have been one of those individuals called beachcomers referred to in so many of the books that treat of the South Sea Islands a sort of near do well Englishman or American rather afraid of meeting any of his own countrymen but very clever at making a bargain between a ship's crew and the natives with considerable profit to himself. Among the bushes we found numbers of large hermit crabs crawling or rather running about in welk shells half a dozen of them occasionally having a grand fight amongst themselves. We picked up at least 20 different sorts of gracefully shaped pieces of coral and quantities of shells of an infinite variety of form and color. Calories, helmet shells, the shells from which cameos are sometimes cut, mother of pearl shells and a large spiral univolve nearly a foot long with the dark brown spots and stripes on a delicate cream colored ground like the skin of a tiger or leopard. On our way back to the huts we peeped into several of the canoes drawn up on the beach in which were some fish spears and a fish hook nearly three inches long made of solid mother of pearl the natural curve of the shell from which it was cut being preserved. A piece of bone was securely fastened to it by means of some pink's hair but there was no bait and it seemed that the glitter of the mother of pearl alone serves as a sufficient allurement to the fish. In nearly all accounts of voyages in the South Seas much space is devoted to the description of the purchase or rather barter of hogs. We thought we could not do better than follow as far as possible the example of our predecessors and accordingly bought two little pigs for two shillings each. They were evidently quite pets lying on the mats outside the huts and coming when called just like dogs. The one I first bought appeared to be quite happy and content to be carried under my arm. The native seemed quite to understand the value of money and did not hesitate to ask for it in return for the coconuts full of shells which they brought us. I fancy some of the Tahiti schooners trade here for pearl, shells and bech de mer. The coconuts, fowls, fish, coral, et cetera having been put into our boat we shook hands with the friendly islanders and embarked and having rounded the point we soon found ourselves again in the broken water outside the lagoon where the race of the tide and the overfall were now much more violent than they had been when we landed. If we had once been drawn into the current we should have stood a good chance of being knocked to pieces on the coral reefs strong as our boat was but the danger was happily avoided and we reached the yacht safely much to Tom's relief. The natives did not exhibit the slightest curiosity about us during our visit to the island and though they received us with courtesy and assisted us as far as they could on our arrival and departure they did not follow us about while on shore nor with the exception of one or two of them did they take the trouble to walk across the point to see us get into the open sea and join the yacht. In this respect they might have given a lesson to many civilized people so gentle, genial and graceful yet dignified for their manners. The screw having been feathered and the sails set our voyage was at once resumed. A few miles from where we had landed we saw high and dry on the coral reef skirting the island, a large square built schooner of about 500 tons, her masts gone, her hull bleached white by the sun and a great hole in her side. She was on the inside of the reef and must therefore either have drifted there from the lagoon or else have been lifted bodily across by one of the big Pacific rollers in some terrible storm. No doubt the iron knee we had seen on the island originally formed part of this vessel. Wednesday, November 29th. We seem to have got into the real southeast trades just as the chart tells us we ought to expect to lose them. For there was a strong fair breeze all day which made it very pleasant on deck in the shade of the sails. But it was exceedingly hot in the saloon where some of the woodwork has been pulled down in order to secure better ventilation for the galley and the births of some of the men who I hope appreciate the alteration for it is a source of considerable discomfort to us. We have the bigger of our two little pigs for dinner today and a welcome change it was from the salt and potted meats. He was most excellent and fully corroborated Captain Cook's statement as to the superiority of South Sea Island pork to any other, a fact which is doubtless due to the pigs being fed entirely on coconuts and breadfruit. Still it seemed a pity to eat such a tame creature and I mean to try and preserve the other one's life unless we are much longer than we expect in reaching Tahiti. He is only about 10 inches long but looks at least a hundred years old and is altogether the most quaint old fashioned little object you ever saw. He has taken a great fancy to the dogs and trots about after me with them everywhere on the tips of his little toes even up and down the steep cabin stairs. I call him a gag because he walks so delicately whilst others accost him as bow not only on account of his elegant manners but as being the name of his former home. The moon was more brilliant this evening than we have yet seen her during our voyage and we could enjoy sitting on deck reading and even doing some coarse needlework without any other light. One splendid meteor flashed across the sky. It was of a light orange color with a fiery tail about two degrees in extent and described in its course an arc of about 60 degrees from South Southeast to North Northwest before it disappeared into space far above the horizon. If the night had been darker the spectacle would have been finer but even as it was the moon seemed quite paled for a few minutes afterwards. We have seen many meteors falling stars and shooting stars since we left Valparaiso but none so fine as the one this evening. Friday, December 1st. The sun rose grandly but the heavy black and red clouds looking like flames and smoke from a furnace gave promise of more rain. The heat was greater today than any we have yet felt and it is now nearly midwinter at home. At five a.m. we made the island of Metia and expected to reach it in about an hour and a half but the wind fell light and it was a quarter to 10 before we got into the gig and set out for the shore. There are not many instructions about landing either in Captain Cook or Findlay but the latter mentions that houses are to be found on the south side of the island. We thought however we could distinguish from the yacht a little cove close to some huts at another part of the shore where the surf did not break so heavily. We accordingly rode straight for it and as we approached we could see the natives coming down from all parts to meet us. The women dressed in the same sort of long, bright flowing garments we had seen at Howe Harp with the addition of garlands round their necks and heads. The men wearing gay colored loincloths, shirts of Manchester cotton stuff, flying loose in the wind and sailors hats with garlands around them or colored silk handkerchiefs, red and orange evidently having the preference, tied over their heads and jauntily knotted on one side. Several of the men waited out into the surf to meet us sometimes standing on a rock two feet above the water sometimes buried up to their necks by a sudden wave but the rocks were sharp the only available passage was narrow and the rollers long and high and altogether it looked upon closer inspection to unpromising a place to attempt a landing. Much to the disappointment of the natives therefore we decided to go round and try the other side of the island. Seeing us prepared to depart the people on shore immediately launched a tiny canoe with an enormous outrigger and a man dressed in a pale green shirt, dark blue and yellow undergarment and with a silk handkerchief and garland on his head came alongside and made signs that he would take us to the shore one by one in his frail looking craft. But the heavy Pacific rollers and the sharp rocks daunted us and we declined his offer with thanks and rode off to the southward. Anything more enticing than the cove we were quitting can hardly be imagined. A fringe of coconuts and breadfruit trees overhanging an undergrowth of bright glossy foliage and flowers, a few half hidden palm leaf covered huts from one of which I suppose the chiefs, a tattered Tahitian flag floated in the breeze, a small schooner drawn up among the trees and carefully covered with mats, the steep sugarloaf point at the entrance to the cove clothed to its summit with grass and vegetation. These were the objects which attracted our attention in our hurried survey of the scene. We had to give the island a wide berth in rowing round it on account of the heavy rollers which seemed to come from every side breaking in surf against the dark brown cliffs and throwing columns of white spray from which the brilliant sunshine was reflected in rainbow hues high into the air. As we proceeded, matters looked worse and worse and the motion of the boat became so disagreeable that both Muriel and I were very ill. At last we came to a spot where we could see some people sitting on the shore and several others who had probably come over from the other side to meet us, running swiftly down the sides of the cliffs to the beach. The island was of a different character from the one we had already visited and was evidently of volcanic origin. No coral was anywhere to be seen, but there were big rocks jutting out at intervals into the sea all round it, one of which seemed large enough to afford us a sort of shelter in landing. The natives waved and pointed towards the channel beyond this rock and one or two swam out to meet us, but we soon found that the channel would not be wide enough to admit our big boat, though it was no doubt sufficient for a light canoe drawing some two inches of water. We therefore reluctantly turned away and resumed our uneasy coasting voyage in the course of which we passed some nearly leafless trees full of white patches, too large for flowers, which afterwards turned out to be booby birds who here find a resting place. There are so numerous that it is hardly possible to walk beneath the trees without treading on their eggs. Having completed the circuit of the island, we found ourselves once more opposite the spot where we had first thought of landing, and the tide being by this time a little higher, we decided to make another attempt. Some of the natives, seeing us approach, plunged into the water as before and seized the gunwale of the boat, while others on shore brought down rollers to put beneath our keel. We went in on the top of a big wave and thus at last found ourselves, boat in all, high and dry on the beach of Metia. The people came down to meet us and conducted us to the house of the chief, who, with his pretty wife, received us kindly, but with much gravity and dignity. Mads were placed for me to sit upon. Wreaths were offered me for my head and neck and coconut milk to drink. We wished for some bananas and they immediately cut down a tree in order to obtain a bunch. Coconuts were, at the same time, thrown down from the trees and a collection of fruit, poultry and meat, the latter consisting of the immemorial hog, was laid at our feet as a present from the chief. The rest of the natives brought us pearls, shells, mother of pearl, small canoes, fish hooks, young boobies and all sorts of things for barter, but the chief himself refused any return for his gift. Perhaps the greatest curiosity they offered us was about six fathoms of fine twine made from human hair. Before these islands were visited by Europeans, this was the material from which fishing lines were made, but it is now rarely used and is consequently very difficult to procure. The young boobies they brought us looked just like a white powder puff and were covered with down far thicker and softer than any swans down I ever saw. The natives seemed quite au-fait in the matter of monetary transactions and exchanges. For an English sovereign, they would give you change at the rate of five dollars. Chilean or United States dollars they accepted readily, but Brazilian currency they would not look at. They were pleased with knives, beads, looking glasses and picture papers I had brought on shore and we did a brisk trade. We experienced great difficulty in explaining to them that we wanted some fresh eggs, murals a special fancy and a luxury which we have been without for some time. At last, by pointing to the fowls and picking up some small egg-shaped stones, we managed to procure a few, though from the time it took to collect them, I should think the island must have been scoured in the search for them. Most of the natives seemed puzzled to comprehend why we had visited the island at all. No sell brandy, no, no steely men, no, no do what then. Their knowledge of English was too limited to enable us to make them understand that we were only making a voyage of circumnavigation in a yacht. It was now time to bid farewell to our amiable hosts and their beautiful island. As we reached the landing place, a small schooner, which we had previously noticed in the distance, came close to the shore and a canoe put off from the island to meet it. We found that the vessel was bringing back from Tahiti and other places some of the inhabitants of the island who had been away on a visit or in search of work. The meeting of the reunited friends and relatives was in some cases quite touching. Two women in particular sat and embraced each other for nearly a quarter of an hour without moving but with tears running down their faces. All our gifts and purchases having been placed in the boat and one or two of us having embarked, she was shoved out over the wooden rollers into the narrow channel where she lay to while the rest of the party were brought alongside one by one in a frail canoe, an operation which occupied some time during which we had leisure once more to admire the little bay I have already attempted to describe. We asked the captain of the schooner who spoke French to give us a tow off to the yacht, which he willingly consented to do, chatting cheerfully all the time but evidently fearful of approaching too close to the yacht and positively refusing our invitation to him to come on board. There can be little doubt that he mistrusted our intentions and feared we might attempt to kidnap him and his crew. For the whites have, in too many cases, behaved in a most villainous manner to the inhabitants of these islands who are, as a rule, to which there are, of course, of exceptions, a kind and gentle people. I think if the many instances of the murder of ships and boats crews could be thoroughly sifted to the bottom, it would be found that most of them were acts of reprisal and revenge for brutal atrocities committed on the defenseless natives who have been kidnapped, plundered and murdered by unscrupulous traitors and adventurers. Unfortunately, the good suffer for the bad, and such lives as those of Captain Goodenough and Bishop Patterson are sacrificed through the unpardonable misconduct of others, perhaps their own countrymen. It is still quite a chance how you may be received in some of the islands, for if the visit of the last ship was the occasion of the murder, plunder, and ill treatment of the inhabitants, it is not to be wondered at that the next comers should be received with distrust, if not with treachery and violence. We reached the yacht at four o'clock, rather exhausted by so many hours' exposure to the broiling sun, having had nothing to eat since breakfast at seven a.m., except coconuts and bananas. The ship was put about, the sails filled, and continuing steadily on our course throughout the evening, we made the smaller of the two peninsulas that formed the island of Tahiti at 10.30 p.m. Saturday, December 2nd. We were dodging on and off all night, and at daybreak the weather was thick and rainy. At 4.30 a.m., we made the land again, and crept slowly along it, past Point Venus and the lighthouse in Madhavai Bay, Captain Cook's first anchorage, until we were off the harbor of Pepiti. Footnote, Pepiette or Pepite, a bag of water, and footnote. The rain was now descending in torrents, and we lay too outside the reef for a short time, until a French pilot came on board and took us in through the narrow entrance. It was curious, while we were tumbling about in the rough sea outside, to see the natives placidly fishing in the tiniest of canoes on the lagoon inside the reef, the waves beating all the time furiously on the outer surface of the coral breakwater, as if anxious to seize and engulf them. At 9 o'clock, we were safely anchored in the chief port of the island of Tahiti. Perhaps I cannot better bring this account of our long voyage from Valparaiso to a conclusion, than by a quotation from a charming book given to me at Rio, which I have lately been reading. Berrand de Hupner, promenade autour du monde. Les jeux c'est souvent et c'est ressemblant. Sauf le cours epaisseur de mauvaise temps. C'est trois semaines méfante l'effet d'un charmant rêve, d'un conte d'effet d'une promenade imaginaire à travers une salle immense. Tout eut et les pieds l'azoui. Pas un moment de nuit ou d'une patience. Si vous voulez abrégir les langues d'un grand traversier, distrabuce bien votre étang et observez le règlement que vous vouliez imposer. C'est une moyenne sur des effets promptement à la vie claustrale et de membre d'un joui. We have been five weeks at sea and have enjoyed them quite as much as the Berrand did his three. We saw but two ships between Valparaiso and Tacotaroa. He saw only one between San Francisco and Yokohama. It is indeed a vast and lonely ocean that we have traversed. End of chapter 13.