 Välkomna till den här säsongen på hälso- och texansproduktionen i och beyond Viking Age. Min namn är Eva Andersson-Strand, och jag har med mina kollegor, Carlotte Heden-Sjöna Jundsson och Marianne Bädler, organiserat den här säsongen. Vi har varit alla och tittar på att träna dig, se dig och hitta vad du tycker om våra idéer. Jag har lagt alla presentationer till en powerpoint. Vi ser hur det fungerar. Det var inte säkert tidigare, så jag hade att göra det väldigt snabbt. Så jag hoppas att den korrekt presentationen är lagt till den här säsongen. Men vi får se. Okej. De halv miljoner från 650 till 1150 så fundamental change in Scandinavia societies. Från central sheftens on the therapy of Europe to well-established Christian kingdoms with new types of economical systems and trading structures. State formations, urban systems and the influences of Christianity, warfare, exploring and colonising regions outside Scandinavia. New trade trade routes and the modes and organization of the production were important parts of this development. And although it's well known that club culture had an important impact on the societal development, this perspective is yes to be fully integrated in the general discussion of the social economic and culture changes that took place during this period. So most textiles produced in Viking aids, they are generally considered to have been produced in a household context by women on their spare time. So we now want to start the discussion on what type of textiles that should be included in what we can call a household production. So the first is what is the definition of a household production. Well, we would say that the household production should suddenly cover the household's own needs. One should have a general knowledge and skills. The raw materials should be commonly accessible and not working full time with this production. We do have several sources in archaeology. We have the textile finds, one from the item book that you see here from the harbor. But we also do have the textile tools that can tell us a lot. And the tools together with experimental archaeology can take us one step further and we can start to discuss at least suggest what type of textiles they might have been produced. We also have the iconography. We have the picture stones and we have the tapestries and so on. And of course using them with the knowledge that they are recorded later and translated several times by Icelandic sagas and other text. But what I think is also very important to include in this discussion is so to say the landscape of textile production. We also need to include the resources. What technology did I use? How did the textiles look like in order to discuss production and how the production was organized and in that way also come to the society. The textiles that we talk about most in Viking Age is the textiles for clothing. And we have an idea what the clothing looked like. But it's clear that most of the textiles that we find from Viking Age they are actually only fragments. And we have only very few parts or more complete parts of costumes preserved from this period. We do have quite a lot of mention of the textiles in the sources. And we should know that the people in the Viking Age they use textile and leather and fur to cover 90% of their body. And they use textiles from the cradle to the grave. And in the sagas we can read about textiles high status costumes. Military costume. Simple clothing. Warn out garments that have been mended and used and reused. Magical garments. Textile given as gifts. Textiles for trade and exchange. And together with the work that Ulla Mönring, among others and Maria Nivelo have done on iconography we can get an idea about what was a male costume and a female costume. A male costume with an over and under tunic trousers, breeches, kaftan, cloak, jacket, shoes, boots. Etcetera. And a female cloth costume with linen dress, wool dress, skirts, tunics, cloaks, jacket, shoes, boots, hair net and wails. So together with analysis of fragments, text, iconographic and context we can actually discuss a little bit about the costume trends. But the fragments they are very very important because the fragments they can tell us of the text of production in different stages. They tell us about the fiber procurement, the fiber preparation, spinning, dying, weaving and finishing. And we know from the textile analysis that the material that they used was flax, hem, maybe also nettle. We have sheep wool, maybe wool from horse and also from goat. We find tools from fiber preparation, from flax preparation. Here you have some lindklubbel in perfectly well written swedish but they should be the claps we are used to break the stems and break the pad also perfectly swedish. That is a shuttering notch to take off the wooden parts from the flax fiber. It's a very long process and I will not go into detail. When it comes to the wool, the wool they have to be the wool has to be sorted. That is also something that we see in the analysis that the wool has been very very carefully sorted and prepared, sometimes combed with the aid of wool comes and then spun with spindles. And spindles and spindle worlds are one of the most common finds from Viking Age settlements and here you have some nice examples from Viking Age and they are from here to be where we also have good preservation of wood. So here you also have some excellent spindle rods that we generally don't find. We have done experiments, we have tested the spindles, testing the size of the spindles and what they actually mean for the production and in order to better understand the outcome. And what we can see from those tests is that with a light spindle you can spin a long fine fine thread and with a heavier spindle you spin a coarser thread and then you have all the variation. So it's the size of the spindle, it is the fiber material and of course in the end also the spinner that dictates the outcome of what you want to produce. And this is also something that we see in the archaeological material. Here is for example all spindle walls I have recorded from Haithaboy and you see they go from five gram up to quite heavy. So here we got an idea about that they have produced a wide range of textiles. The dye analysis also tell us that they have dye textiles with different types of plants for example blue with vod and red with matter. Furthermore the small fragments can tell us something about the weaving techniques they knew, plain weave such as tabby but also different types of twill and other types of weaves like rockade tapestry and pine. We know that they have been working and working and been weaving on the work weighted loom and in Viking Age we see an increasing use of this type of loom because we find so many loom weights. Just for this setup we needed 60 loom weights. The cloth is 60 cm wide. It's a twill. And again we can see that the small loom weights they are more convenient to use to one type of fabrics while the heavier loom weights is convenient to use for another type of fabric. We have a tendency to underestimate how much raw material and time consumption that was needed to produce textiles just for clothing. Here we have done some calculation. It's based on one male costume weighing around 4 kg. For this in a very coarse quality and this is coarser than Viking Age textiles in general but we said 10 freds per centimeter you need 30 000 meters of yarn and this is equal to 14 square meters of coarse cloth. It would take them 32 days to prepare the fibers. 60 days to spin all the yarn needed. 2 days to set up the loom. Approximately 28 days to weave. So around 122 days if you're working 10 hours a day it will take to produce this very coarse textile. But what about other types of textiles? So far I've just talked about clothing for costumes. We also know that there was a need of textile for furnishing. Tapestries, pillows and mattresses, curtains, bed linens and tablecloth. Are these textiles also produced in a household context? What about luxury textiles? Tablet, woven bands, silk applications, embroideries, etc. And then I will say no sales, no Viking Age. If they couldn't produce the sales it would have been quite impossible to sail around on the North Sea and further on. And the need of sale was quite substantial. Erik Andersson has calculated that in 1030 1 million square meters of sales were needed in the old Danish kingdom. And I have calculated for the laddership. My question was how many textiles were necessary and used on a ship similar to the Danish laddership with 32 horsemen. So just to produce the clothing, the sale and some tents needed 410 kg raw material which would take more than 24 years for one person to make working 10 hours a day. And then another 60 kg were needed for a sale another 2.6 years. And if you then also needed tents you even one small tent which had another 30 kg raw materials and 1.3 years to make. So this has taken up a lot of time to produce the sales and produce the clothing for the trade, the war and warfare. And could this be included in the household production. So the aim in this session is to explore the variety and function of household textiles and the production in the Viking Age. So what can we consider to be a household production and what goes beyond it. This was my short introduction.