 Hey, what's up folks, welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noah Alvarez. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro. How you doing buddy? Good morning everyone. I'm Pedro. I was creative tech here at Adafruit. Now we're here to share three penta projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That is right. This is a show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello everybody, welcome to episode 3, 418. It is October 18th, 2023. The show is called Frasswrench LED Noodles and Octopus Pumpkin. We're hanging out in the Discord chat room. If you'd like to join us during the show, you can say hello, ask questions, drop some gifts and memes and all that fun stuff. We'll take a couple of moments to welcome folks to the show. We have a fun cosplay prop replica project this week. We have some community makes. We have a little bit of a shop talk. We have all that and more on, you guessed it, 3D Hangouts. It's not Thursday. It is Wednesday. I need to update that. What's up? I said, I need to update this banner. It's just Thursday. Whoops. Yeah, I have one that says Wednesday. I just forget to upload it. But any who? Good morning. Good evening, good afternoon to everybody. We got skid.jpg, Rosin hanging out in the Discord chat room. We're also hanging out in the YouTube chat room, Periscope, Twitch, LinkedIn and Facebook. So if you wanna say hello in any of those channels, please do so. We'll say hello. Okay, next up, let's check out the freebies going on. Adafruit.com slash free for all the details. If your order is $99 or more, you'll get a free PCB coaster with a golden Adafruit logo. Very, very nice. If your order is $149 or more, you get the PCB coaster plus an Adafruit KB2040. That's that lovely RP2040 dashboard. If your order is $199 or more, you'll get a free. You'll get UPS ground shipping free. That's continental US only. And if your order is a whopping $299 or more, you'll get the free ground shipping from UPS. You'll get the KB2040, the PCB coaster and perhaps either a Circuit Playground Express or an NXP Metro M7. I just emailed support team because there's clearly some inconsistencies on the webpage. So yeah, that's out there. But you'll get one of those. I might as well give you both the options. It's a toss up. You'll get some very good options. Very good options. Whether it's a Circuit Playground Express or an M7, it's a flip of the coin. Who knows? On top of that, you can use your 10% discount code FASBAIR. And that has to do with this week's prop project, which we'll take a look at in a few moments. So yeah, Adafruit.com slash free for the details. And these get automatically added to your cart. No need for extra coupons, but of course you can use our coupon. All right. And we are I think ready to mosey on over to this week's project. All right, this week's project is release of the Freddy FASBAIR, FASWRENCH. Yeah, this is from the DLC game, Five Nights of Freddy, Security Breach Ruin. This is a very cool device that's used to unlock doors, unlock nodes from the main character Casey, who's looking for Gregory. And this was recommended by Pedro Son, my nephew Gavin, shout out to you, sir. You had the idea like, hey, this looks like a cool prop. Can y'all make this real? And we were like, that does look like a cool prop. It has a LCD display with a prop maker feather, couple of NeoPixel LEDs, it's got a rotary encoder, sound effects, it's got two buttons for activating different modes. And you can use the accelerometer to trigger different looping sound effects. Cause in the game, Casey uses it to unlock whether it's up or down to charge these nodes. And we thought that'd be super cool to integrate that since we have a built-in accelerometer on the prop maker feather. So it's just using all of the bells and whistles of the features on the prop maker feather. And our props keep getting more and more features. And this one really makes it super cool. You got built-in USB charging for charging the battery. Yeah, it's got that STEMA QT port. So we were able to use the STEMA backpack board for those LCD displays. And you can display all sorts of fun messages on these kind of classic character displays. It's all done in CircuitPython. This was a collab project. Liz Clark, she helps out with all the code, all the demo code for these props. And it works really well. And it's pretty easy to customize it too for a different type of device. I think it's reminiscent to like a fluke multimeter. It's just got that kind of industrial but kind of fun look to it. And Pedro, you did a really good job on designing the decals and just making it all nice and integrated. So all the components have their own separate mounts and everything's nice and secure. It's kid-friendly. It's meant for the kids to play with. I know the game might not be for kids but kids somehow love Five Nights at Freddy. They just do. I don't know how I'm gonna get around showing them the movie. It's like right at R. I thought it was Beach 13. Oh, is it? I thought it was R. I thought so. This is like- Yeah. Well, just watch parental guidance. Just watch it with them. If you get scared, you'll, you know. Can you hear the drilling going on? Just now that you mentioned it, just a little bit. So if I keep muting, that's why. All right, gotcha. All right, well I just posted a link to the Learn Guide. We're gonna take a look at it. Pedro's gonna walk us through all of the nitty gritty of building your own Baz wrench. All right, cool. Let me load up the guide page. There we go. All right, cool. Yeah. Let me get over. I don't know. I'm not gonna be able to see anything. It's gonna be fun. Yeah. I'll have to juggle some windows. Yeah. All right, cool. So yeah, just the basic breakdown of what you just said. Gavin really wanted this to come to life. He's been watching a bunch of the LMetronics and the video game play through for this. So super interested in having an actual physical proct that he can go ahead and play with as well. And, you know, some parents might think that, you know, letting the kids watch horror type stuff might be not good, but I like that it's gotten them very interested in making electronics and animatronics, especially since it's like such a highlight in the game. So definitely whatever sparks their interest, you know, so this was definitely a project that checks off all the boxes. So yeah, it's utilizing the PropMaker RP2040. It's utilizing the, you know, display. Then of course the ancillary, you know, goals of having your kids be inspired by something that they really like. Yeah. Going off, you know, all the circuit pipeline stuff, showing off all the, where you can download all this stuff. The GitHub that has all of our 3D printed or the 3D models for everything. So it is like just an encompassing of all the chat box for, you know, the type of project. I just like the assortment of components and really lend it to all sorts of different things. We got a comment from, let me see real quick, from squid.jpegs, like this would be a cool remote control for controlling WLED devices. It's got a nice rotary encoder for menu selections. It's got the menu, the display for menus. So yeah, we think it's just a cool looking enclosure for an actual remote control. And you have, you know, the antennas so it can actually remotely control something. So it's like ready to go. Yeah, these are real antennas. The connection, the real connectors on the back so you can hook this up to a UFL feather. Yeah. It's fully mileage. If you don't need, if you want a feather, like radio or a Laura, like you have the feather, you know, mounting holes built in, so you just swap out the feather and put any, you know, range of components that you need. It's already ready for a battery, a big beefy battery. So it's gonna have really nice battery charging. It's a cool prop. It's even a cooler enclosure that you can use. Yeah, I think that usability of the enclosure for something real was definitely my goal. So you have so much room in here. Let me jump over to the other side. I'll do it for you. There you go. Yeah, so definitely a lot of room in there. Get some of this stuff out. You have your room for, your battery is all this section down over here. And then the rotor encoder goes right here. I was shown off last week. I was pretty proud of the way that we were able to construct a regular encoder to have it be a thumb scroll. So what we're doing is just laying it on the side. We have this little hook thing that holds onto the shaft and then all of the platform destabilizes it so you can actually use it as a thumb drive. Cause I don't think we actually have a part that is like that, do we? I don't think so. Or it's just a dedicated thumb scroll, vertical like that. Yeah, I haven't seen it. I haven't seen us do a rotor encoder mounted on its side. So it's a scroll wheel. That's a really cool way to do that. Yeah, so when we're talking about the modularity of all the components, we're also simplifying some of them and making them fake components. Like this isn't a real LED, it's just a diffuser and we're using NeoPixel. So it's just a strip of NeoPixel. So we don't have to individually add each, we'd be like a three millimeter LED instead of having that and then having no control of the animation, the way it flows. We can just utilize our animation library for NeoPixels and have that being fake NeoPixels in the way that it's diffusing. You can actually have those shine through through different rows. So it looks like it's real. Some of the other stuff too, like you were saying, just gluing on some of the decal detail. Very useful for that. And then the way that we're holding the battery, the custom thumb knob, the little stopper on there. So definitely lots of ways that you can edit. And then yeah, just simple little holders like the LED strip holder and the slide switch holder. Very modular so everything breaks on it. You can easily swap into these parts out. And this was really because we would usually build a bunch of that stuff into a case, but man, this takes like seven hours to print. So if something breaks, we don't wanna reprint it just because of a tiny little piece that broke on it. So having these all be separate definitely saves a lot of time, especially when you're still prototyping everything to make sure it fits. You wanna be able to quickly swap out components to make sure all the tolerances are correct. Okay, it's very modular. All right, get rid of that. Check back into the learn guide. Let me fix my face, y'all. There we go. Yep, so there's the breakdown, the overall, like why we wanted to build this, all the check boxes that we wanted to get checked off. And here is the component list of some of the things you'll need. Not listed here is the, actually, no, it's all listed here, but every single thing that we needed on there. So all the rotary encoders and looks like some of the stuff is in stocks at the display. Yeah, there's a different display color, I think. You get like a different one if you want. Buttons, even down to like the resistors that we're using on here, we do have those, all the screws, all the wires, like the little connectors for the antenna. And the thing is all there, a little drone. All right, jump into the 3D printing page. Nice little setup of all your files. You have the Fusion 360 file that you can get, like the step file for, where you can just download the STLs. It's on Thingiverse, and I think it gets shared from there to all the other sites. The majority of the components do not require supports. I think the only thing that does require is just the top case, and that's just for the little grip area. You can see here, we have the support setup. The supports would be just right here in this grip area. It's just like a millimeter or two that is off the bed, just so you have room to slide on the little snap-on part or the part that you glue on the grip. You've got the settings for that. The multicolor label for the lightning bolt, it's pretty much on layer three above, is blue, and below that is red. Of course, you can change that out to anything you want, or you can just easily paint that. I just didn't want to sit there and paint on the edges of that. And then we're using Super Glue with the, well, what's that spray called? The accelerator, yeah, to hold that on. The cover gets printed out and adhered on the inside. And this is simply so that we don't have light leaking from this angle here. That's a good mask. Yeah, it's very nice. It's masking it out. I did try doing the filament swap for the entire case, but then you wouldn't end up with a black strip right here. Which could be cool. I guess if you want it. I mean, if you want that, yeah, but aesthetic-wise, that didn't work out. That's just an easier way to have a little cover for that diffusion. Okay. And that's the three-printed part. We went on to the circuit pipeline page, nice little breakdown of updating a board. If they want to do that, it's one of the first things. You get through all that. Let's put together a really good code page, breaking down all of the functionalities for it. So you can get our project bundle that'll have all the sound effects, all the code and the libraries you're gonna need. And this is all broken down here. I think the only thing that I went here and changed was I think like the brightness of the neopics, but you can adjust that for like, I think I just did it for like the recording of the video. And the audio files, you can swap that out for whatever else you want. That's less enough. There's just the WAV files. I kind of ripped them from the game. Like I used the screen record, but y'all can do whatever. It's all stored in a sounds folder. So you can easily swap them out like you were saying. And yeah, here's what the folder structure looks like. So very simplified. You can see here all the fast sounds. Oh, and like if you want to change like the text on the LCD display, it's easy to do. So it's just the f-string. So you just change it out in the code. So you can make it say whatever you want. You can create your own menu system if you'd like to all sorts of fun stuff. So yeah, we haven't used this new LCD backpack. And with the StemicUT cable, you just plug it in. It's so much easier than wiring, you know, five different wires. So really, really nice. And that makes it nice and slim too. You don't have to have that terminal connected to it. And then over to the circuit diagram. Looks a little scary, but because it is all compartmentalized, you can break it down with each individual component. This definitely makes it easier. Like when I was thinking about how to do this project, that's how I start thinking about things now just in individual components instead of like the overall picture, because then it does get overwhelming a little bit. Yeah. So break that all down. One of the things I couldn't find for the push button LED was... Oh, this is nice. Yeah, showing what is what. I wanted to mention this to you and your HAL project too, like the button switch would have been nice to have something like this because I definitely don't know what I'm talking about. Okay. I had the pin going into that. So it was just continuously pushing. Oh yeah. It's just triggering back to back. So we have a graph of what that layout is and then what it actually looks like wired up. And here pretty much I'm showing that I'm using the JST2 pin for the power. That's what's gonna make it easy to just plug into the other half. Otherwise, you're kind of chain balled to the other half of the case when you wanna take it apart or debugging or assembling it together and then jumper cables for easily connecting the signal wire pin 13 or the button that goes straight into the terminal block on the feather. And the 220 resistor, you must have the resistor. I think the LED is only rated for like two volts or something like that. I was able to get away without it for a little bit and then right where I'm about to go it burnt out on me. So I had to salvage one of the red button from your old guitar with the light up one. So I had to rip it out of there all because I thought you didn't need the resistor. So use that resistor for the power. Don't look that up. Good tip. Yeah. Lesson learned. Moving on to the assembly. You can attach to the Stemma board driver to the LCD screen by just soldering on the headers. But last week I was saying that I'm anticipating the kids breaking this. So I wanna be able to swap out the screen when it does crack. Yeah. If you drop it, maybe. Oh yeah. I mean, kids, they just drop things on the floor. If it falls just right, it might crack the screen. It could happen or go outside on the concrete, just dump it on the floor. So I use the short headers. Yeah. Yeah, short headers for this and that works. I did have to use little stabilizers like the nylon screws and nuts just so that it has a standoff on the side so it's not like wiggling back and forth since it does elevate it just a little bit. You can kinda see here. It's elevated just a little bit but it's still nice and slim. And then for the rotary assembly. Oh, sorry, skip the step. The parse fits into the front of the case with the cutouts and then just we're using the M25 by six millimeter screws to attach the PCB part of the display. Nice. The rotary assembly, like we were saying before, this little hook apart attaches, like holds onto the stem of the rotary so it is nice and stable. Just a warning here to make sure that when you mount this, the stem of ports are on the side so that you can close the case, the top case because otherwise it's sticking up. No, otherwise the cable's sticking up and it won't close. Yep, yep, all right. So orientation matters big time. Yeah, the width of the case is determined by this rotary. That's quite sad. We needed the tallest thing. Again, resistor. Use the resistor. Yeah, you got your money. The green button lasts way longer than the red one for whatever reason. Yeah, it's just the color way started. Yeah, it started blinking on me. I'm like, oh, what's going on? And then it just died. The assembly, I didn't smell anything. No, I just stopped working. Okay. Yeah, for the LEDs, we are using the side lit neopixel. So what that means is the LEDs is shooting off this way, not from, you know, that way. Yeah, forward on the sides. So you can mount these vertically and that saves so much space for the way that you're eliminating the false LEDs on top. Those mount like so. It is a little bit difficult to cut these. So you might want to have like a sacrificial LED just because the pads can get kind of small for soldering them together. And these are the high density ones, unfortunately. So you do have to get like a roll of them just to utilize five of them. Yeah, that's fair. I mean, you can use them and the rest of the wheel can be used for other projects. Yeah, just cut the end of the reel off. You know, if you have like a, I have like a baggie of like all of the cutoff extra pieces and that's what I grabbed that from. Yeah. Let's see, mounting all the components together onto the feather mount. We're just going to be just one of these guys right here. I did mount the terminal side. So you can kind of see how it's cut off like that. Yeah, that's good. I think that the M2 screws for that. And then the M25 for the front part where the USB-C port is. And then the speaker just attaches to the section right here, face down. I like your little notch cutouts for the wire. It's nice and clever. Which one? Oh, this one, yeah. The notches, yeah, the bottom notch. It's really the cable ramp. I think you did that. No, you did that. Was it over there? I believe. I think I edited it. I was like a good notch. It's where the speaker connects. So we'll mount all of that and then we can start hooking up all of our components to the terminal soldering on our three volt. Our grounds, air pin for the button pushing, and then the enable and the ground for the slide switch. For the slide switch, I'm just using these little jumpers here. This white and black one. So it can just easily plug directly into the switch itself. So I'm not soldering to the switch. Again, I'm using the modularity of it. I'm using the shorter oval speaker. So we can have the PicoBlade connector. Yeah. It's got to chop that down just a little bit, but it's easier to disconnect this and move around. What else? And then the socket side of the GAST that'll connect into the plug side for the two buttons. Nice, very modular. Moving on to the antenna. We have the RP-SMA jack that is going to mount the, or panel mount the antenna. We do have bigger antennas if you're actually using this for like, you know, actual wifi scanning or something like that. You can get like a bigger one than those should be the same size as for it. It's just longer and thicker, I think. The base, I think is the same size. Slide switch, press fits and angle and then is mounted to the side of the case. That's where we start mounting everything to the case. The battery mount, you slide it in. Attach, place it over the case and then screw in the M2.5 by five millimeter screws from the bottom into the case. And I made it thick enough so it shouldn't puncture the battery. Nice, just be careful with that. But I did add extra two millimeters. See, and then we can start mounting everything together like the rotary encoder and we'll go in the whole feather assembly with the LED. And then we'll start plugging in all our components like the stem cable goes into the display and that goes into the rotary and then the rotary's stem goes right into the feather. So we're using the 50 millimeter cable and then the 300 millimeter cable. And that is like the perfect size for being able to open up your case, have enough room to like sort of separate it while it's still connected. And then you want to route your cables for it to close nice and securely. It should be like right here where you can route everything right by that standoff and right by the rotary encoder. So everything just sort of collapses and coils into that arrangement there. And that's pretty much it. We're using the M3 by eight millimeter line screws. These are countersunk. So I did get like some longer bits to be able to screw that in to fit the pieces together. And that's pretty much it may look complicated but if you just break it down and like by component it becomes super manageable. Yeah, for sure. You can track everything down and yeah. Yeah, yeah. Stem EQT really makes, you know the breakouts easy to daisy chain. So super nice. Demo, the rotary encoders. And the screw block terminals. Screw blocks. The, what else? The headers that you can add onto this. Circuit Python, like everything combined together. Everything's modular and customizable. It's really nice. This would have been a nightmare. I think with like Arduino or having to use a sound. Yeah, the breakout board. Oh my God. All the feathers now have STEM EQT. So like it's really nice time with the audio. Oh my God. Yeah. And the usability of being able to have, you know this as just the case, like that's what I'm gonna do with the second one. I'm just gonna assemble all the components without any electronics. And it just, you know, the kids have imagination. So they can. Yeah. Cool. We got some comments here. Turbo Falcon on YouTube. So it's really nice enclosure. They're saying, love the learn guides. The first one they were done was the pie girl back when I was in school. Super cool project. Easy to follow. I was just thinking about that one. That was intense. That one's gonna have to be redone. Yeah, right. Maybe next year. With the Python. I don't know. Thanks for your comment, Turbo. There's so many like handheld Linux, Pi, things on Amazon these days. I don't know if it's worth creating to be creating. It would have to. Obviously would have to have some component that Lamar made. That is right. Something new that it's a little different to make. So that's how we would approach it. Yeah. And Lamar is a Pi gamers and Pi badges. Like those are really nice all-in-one boards with the screen and they have NES emulators. So I got to remind you to start posting though since we did the get a stock of those in. Cool. I haven't posted any links to it because we're just looking at the Lerngrad, right? So I think we're good. The prop maker is not good. Yeah, it's just the product works. All right. Well, we have a big batch of these boys and girls. The prop maker feathers they're in stock. So check those out. That is the hero for the past two months now. Whatever, however long it's been. As soon as it got released, I think. Yeah. And then Squid.jpg says, I really like the idea of separating the component mounts into their own parts. I feel like these could be reused on other projects. They have been. Yeah. The slides which is an example that the speaker mount, we tend to reuse that one. So yeah, for sure. The slides which we noticed that. Yeah. I did just do a couple of updates to it and all it was was adding, I think a platform just because of the way it's mounted. And then whatever tolerance changes on your printer. So it's made, I think like this little back. Little end stop. I just made it like 0.5. Oh yeah. All right. So it doesn't like wiggle back. And that's just my tolerances. Right. Okay. Just there's always like minor updates. Oh, and I think like adding like chamfers to like the walls so that it can print vertically. So it might be like the base part that we're reusing, but we're modifying it yet again to fit what new orientation that we're using it for. So yeah, it is the base model that we use over and over again, but just with slight modifications to fit. Very cool. All right. That's this week's project. You can use coupon code, fazbear, get 10% off your order. Be sure to check that out. If you wanna pick up stuff, support the show, support your maker habit. All right. We're gonna do shop. No. What are you prototyping? Yes. All right. Noodles, LED noodles. They're all in stock, all colors, all sizes, lengths. So I wanted to do a project with the LED noodles. And since we're pretty much almost here, Halloween is a couple weeks, if not week. So I figured it's time to do a holiday project with LED noodles. And you've seen me do some signs with 3D printed parts that kind of press fit into the noodle, press fits into these signs. So I figured I really wanna do a three-dimensional one. So in the background, you might've seen this. This is my three-dimensional LED tree. And I have a total of eight noodles. I have four green ones and four red ones. I have yet to wire them up, but this tip here shows you, where am I? There you are. That's good. So the tip here shows the little pins. So I'm gonna wire these up to a brass rod. And the brass rod's gonna go in the center. I have a separate piece. It's gonna have a cutie pie and the LED driver. So I'll be able to do animations of the individual noodles, pulse or fade in, all sorts of different animations we can do. And this is all 3D printed without any supports. So the idea is that each noodle just press fits into these channels. The channels all twist and taper to create a holiday tree. So I haven't seen something like this yet. And I thought it'd be a good idea to do a three-dimensional LED noodle project. So that's what I am working on. Might as well get to it early because I hope to get this printed and resin from one of the 3D printing services. So I think I have time on my side this time around. But that is the idea is to get these noodles wired up with an LED driver and a cutie pie. And then I'll use USB-C to charge it up. But it's yay big. It's about 220 millimeters tall, 100 millimeters on the width. So I think it'll fit on most 3D printers. I printed this in PLA using clear filament. On my Ender V2. So my Ender V2 was able to print it, no problem. Took about six hours to print, depending on your speeds. But yeah, I think this will be cool when it's lit up. So that is what I'm working on. Even makes it get short a minute. This is a big ornament, but yeah, maybe we can make it smaller. A giant tree. You can make a giant tree, yeah. We do have the, what is it, 600 millimeter LED noodles? What do we got? Do we have really long ones? They're 24 volts. Yeah, 1.2 meters long. Oh wow. Yeah, so it's a really long noodle. Three foot, right? Yeah, but I wanted to stick with the 300 millimeter, 300 millimeter length ones, because that's the ones that have the colors. And as you can see, it's a desktop-sized tree. So I figured for your desk, it makes sense to do this. When these first came out, it was really tough to get them in stock, but we have them all in stock. So I'm using the green and the red. We'll see how they look like once we're wired up and stuff. But yeah, I think using a brass rod as a structure and as like a connector is gonna be kind of interesting because I've seen a lot of sculpted, PCB sculpted art that uses brass rod jewelry as well. So I'm gonna give that a try. If not, I'll just use a silicone wire, you know? Yeah, no, that'll be that, but that's the idea. And that is what we are prototyping. For next week though, let me get my screen ready. I have a new 3D PCB file. Let me get my fusion ready. Here it is. We have a 3D model of this USB power delivery breakout board. It's got the USB 238 for doing... It basically kind of helps you power gadgets and devices that use different voltages. So USB-C can do some pretty high voltage and Lamar thought it'd be good to have a PCB breakout that lets you choose between five volts all the way up to 20 volts and one amp all the way up to three amps depending on which jumper you wanna use. So the idea is that you would use this with one of those high voltage USB-C power breakouts for the wall wart and then you'd be able to wire in, let's say like a lamp that has a weird 17 volt thing. You'd be able to use this guy to power that. So the idea is to USB-Cify all of the gadgets. So that's what this breakout board does. It's like $5 and you have some abilities to use circuit Python or Arduino with the I-squared C to change up the voltage. But of course you could also do it with the jumpers. But this is the breakout that we got, 3D model that's available right now in the Learn Guide. And I'll make a little case for it because we're gonna need it. So definitely the case for something delivering that much power. Yeah, exactly. So I'll be working on that. We'll probably have that for next week. And let's go ahead and bring up the product. Let me get rid of that and add this. Here we are. So what did I say was a $5 board? Yeah, it's a $6 board actually. Here's a product page which is showing a multimeter attached to it. You can see this is doing nine volts and 12 volts. So in the code, you can actually have it switch if you want, but this is the demo code to show. It's pretty small breakout board, but yeah, Lamar thinks it'll be good for all those weird gadgets that have different voltages and amperages and USB-C, all the things. So the Learn Guide is out in public. And if you go to the downloads page, you can see the 3D model is on GitHub. You could also use the fritzing object if you wanna create a wiring diagram. And of course, the Eagle CAD files open source so you can reuse the schematic or the footprint if you want. Yeah, and we have demo code in CircuitPython in Arduino. So have at it if you want to do a specific USB-C power project. So that is the shop top this week. Don't forget, you can use your coupon code, FAVS Bayer can get 10% off your order if you wanna pick up that USB-C power delivery board or any number of breakouts and components. So, let's see, Squid is saying that this is gonna make a good gadget to power the 12-volt LED strips. There you go. That's what I thought you were gonna use this for with the longer nodes. Yeah, no, I think the LED driver I'm using, let's go back, there's a- Well, the main reason is because they don't have colors in those lengths. Exactly, yeah. Yeah, I'm using this guy here. It's a STEMA QT board, so it's gonna plug it directly into the QT-Py and then I'll be able to, no resistors required here for my LED noodles. And this way, I'll be able to individually control them and then if you go to the Nudes Learn Guide, there is demo code already on how to fade them in and out. So that's basically my circuit diagram. So you can see here, Nudes, not wires. This is how I'm gonna wire up the noodles with external wires and just connect it with a STEMA QT cable to the QT-Py and then the code here just fades between the various pins. So it should be kind of easy to do. Super cool. Yeah, so that's what I'll be doing. I think I want the hero shot to be like at, I don't know, whoever has a big old tree, one of the resorts. Oh yeah. Well, I mean, it's titled out there. Yeah, yeah, we'll figure out what to do. We got time, right? I figure I'd start now because I actually have been prototyping this, trying to figure out the right kind of recipe to get this path to kind of, you know, taper in as it's wrapping around in this cone shape. With the correct length for the... With the correct length. I mean, it ended up being a little bit longer, but that's fine. I'd rather have it be long than too short. Yeah, because then it's dangling out. Right, and I'll probably do, sorry, I'm trying, there we go. I'll probably put like a star to cover up this. So you can imagine a star here, and then like a holder here. I think it should be sparky. The sparky, the little flame. Yeah, maybe, I'm just gonna do a star. So it looks like a tree, you know? So yeah, it could also be a unicorn horn, I guess. Yeah. Yawning is saying that this would be great for clothes for dark times as winter is approaching. Really? Okay. Let me see. Wade has used the LED driver before, says it works great. Yeah, man, it's great. Yeah, I've only used it in the Pico MIDI Fighter project where I had all the LED buttons wired up to it. So it'd be cool to see that driver drive the noodles and pulse them in and out. I have eight of them here, so I think that makes sense instead of wiring up to the GPIO pins on the QDPI. Cause that's actually what I did with the noodle, with the lamp, LED noodle lamp. And that was a trick. It's like a flat holder for the noodle. And then let me show it to you, right here. Yeah, so this project here has the noodles wired up directly to the GPIO pins. Oh man, it's too bright. Oh yeah. It's flat and they're just mounted vertically onto these little things. But I want that coil effect. There you can see it, they're just flat. So there it is on, there it is off. And I'm just wiring it directly to the QDPI. There's only, how many are here? Like six? So I figure eight of them is just the right number for doing the LED driver. Cause the LED driver can do 16, I think 16. Putting it back on my project shelf. So yeah, noodles. Cool, thank you. Thank you JPEG, squid.jpeg. Oh, they've made that project. They say it is awesome. And then space duck is saying, does it have PWM? Yes, yes it does. Let me go to that. Here you can see, yeah, you can use PWM, right? There's a PWM. I mean, that's how it's fading, right? I think so. Here's analog control, analog control, yeah. Yeah, I want to say it's PWM. So you can fade it in and out. I think that's what it's doing. Yeah, PWM control with Arduino and with CircuitPython. We're using the PWM IO library in CircuitPython or the core of Arduino. So Phil B did a great job on doing all the things. You can control with digital in and digital out and also PWM, so yes. All the things. Cool, all right, next up, let's hop over to this week's... Space duck is saying they want to incorporate it into a droid build. Yeah, for sure. Heck yeah, all right, I'll be ready for... I'll post the link to this week's time lamps. Check it out. This week's time lamps Tuesday is Halloween-themed pumpkin squid. Where did it need dual color? This is such a cool filament. Is it the quantum fill or something else? Quantum, yeah, this is right from Filamentum. Had just a little bit left of this, so I was like, hey, purple, kind of the gold, maybe could be like the pumpkin color, I don't know. That looks pretty cool. Hold on. There's so much detail in this squid pumpkin guy, like his tentacles have all these pumpkins with all these different leaves on it. Yeah, that's cool. And then the sides have like these autumn leaves. Yeah, very festive. So much detail. Yeah. That's what I'm impressed with this project, that all this detail in it printed while doing a time lapse, just minimal cleanup. It's a little bit of string and just the ugly side here because of the time lapse for the... How's that? Good detail in the eyes. It's very silky, very shiny. And this is for Matterhackers, isn't it, Matterhackers filament? Filamentum, quantum. Really? It's on Matterhackers. Oh, okay, the distributor, I think, or the shop. All right. I thought it was for some... There's so many people make this now, so... Yeah, okay, yeah. Iridescent, two-tone kind of colors. Yeah, I just got the three-tone color one from, I don't even know what company it is. It looks like that glitch effect. You see that oogie boogie one? I think that's what I'm printing, the oogie boogie. And it looks like the... It's like the pink, white, green static effect, like when... It's like that 2D-like effect or 3D effect where it has like the two different... I don't know, I can go grab it, but... Yeah. Sorry about the squid. I'm sorry, I'm sorry. Yeah, let's talk about the squid. Up on... As a free model, and it's written by Va Va Li, Va Va Va Li on Colts 3D. And take a look at these photos. Take a look at these photos. Yeah, this multi-print... It's again on the ultimate. Yeah. It's just two colors, then? I believe, yeah, just two colors, but you can definitely see... We'd be able to see the pumpkins a lot better. These photos are very, very nice. Oh my God, look at these photos. Yeah, I wanted to get macro shots with the video, but I ran out of time. Very cool model. I think a squid makes a lot of sense to shape into a pumpkin. I wanted to put like string on one of his tentacles and make it safe. Oh yeah. Yeah, it looks like you can stand it upright, but you can kind of have some of the limbs stand up a bit. Yeah, that is super cool. So for decorations, for decorations or having around, kids just been running around with this thing because of the tentacles. It's a super cool, awesome print. Is there any support needed for it? No, right? No, no supports. Yeah, it's amazing. Some flats. Yeah, the tolerances are super good. Right. Like I'm saying, just like all the detail and all these tiny little things. Yeah, there is a lot of detail. I'm surprised none of these pieces went flying off. Yeah. Good filament. Doesn't look like the pumpkin filament there. Good designs. No, they're kind of... Yeah, I think some of them fill in a little bit. Yeah, I like how it smudged on its eyes. Kind of gives it some detail. Cool. Good use of the quantum detail filament. Yeah, it's super flat, but I like how it makes that weird shape or the color anyway. And there it does sign off of it. You can probably bring it into mesh mixer or something and hollow out the head and make the eyes glow. And you're kind of worried about it. That would have been a good idea. All you have to do is pop off the top. Oh, really? And hollow on it. Oh, I had no time though. I know. That's why I'm saying I know. If you want to do it. So it's next year. All right, well, that's a good time lapse. And again, shout out to Va Va Bali. It's a free download, free. Go get it. Go print it. It'll be ready just in time for hollows Eve. All right. Time for community makes. These were brought to our attention via email notifications. So let's kick it off with this week's community makes. First up, we have a lightsaber make from R2H2 on cold street or printables.com. They gave a nice comment here. It says, went together well, added a neopixel jewel while I'm waiting on the blade to show up. Works pretty well for a younger kid to run around with and play it with like a flashlight instead of bashing a brother. Okay. That's what they do, yeah. So yeah, yeah, you can definitely remix this. Use different component in this case, the neopixel jewels to fit pretty well. And it looks nice and green and, you know, nice silver kind of color. So thanks for sharing that, R2H2. I'm saving the shell that you sent me, the resin print of it. So when Gavin can actually add stuff, it's like here, dude. Yeah, here's your shell. That's cool. Yeah, and I'll screw it together. So easy to take it apart. All right, hey, people are getting ready for the next holiday or the next next holiday because there's still Thanksgiving to get through. Michaelet posted up a post of their make of the snap fit ornament. This is called just a snap fit ornament with a spinning snowflake in the center. They said they scaled it up to about 102% so it would fit. Otherwise, no issues, easy to print. Thank you for sharing. Nice. Yeah, this is a cool one. It has a lot of different inserts and folks have been making their own. There's some remixes as well. So I made a really big one, I think, right? Yeah, these are so fun. This one had a bunch of makes on the other site. So cool, people are getting ready. For the next next holiday. And after that, 8081 posted up their make of the heat set insert rig. Looks like they got a nice long piece of aluminum extrusion. This, of course, is a tool to help you do very parallel heat set inserts. So there you go. So it's a great, super easy to print and assemble and it's super useful. Yeah, yeah. Next up, we have Claudius posted up their make of the Epcot Spaceship Earth. This time, small, hand-sized. It looks really cute. It's a golf ball, right? Oh, cool. Looks really cute, yeah. I didn't think to make it small. I think you could make an ornament. Oh, a tiny version. Just like a CPX, yeah, CPX. Yeah, CPX, that wouldn't actually work. You could use the mounting tabs to put the circuit playground in there and then just have it light up a swirly ring. Exactly, yeah. It's a good idea, actually, yeah. Still popular. People tend to like the Epcot Spaceship Earth. I was walking through connections and they released their own statue. I think I sent you the photo of it. Yeah. Of course, LEDs weren't working and it's probably just one bulb or something. One bulb. Yeah. RGB LED that just flashes through. But it was like 200 bucks, like, seriously. Oh, is it ceramic or something? Maybe ceramic. Oh, CUAC has connections for 90% off. Oh, that's funny. Yeah, I always wait for it to go on sale. All right, after that, we got another prop. Flash from the past, Diego, printed up the energy sword from Halo video game series. This looks dope. Oh, look at that. Looks like it's got the electricity or whatever you're liking kind of details printed in this nice color. And it's got like a gold finish. Looks good on the wall. You've got like a special hanger with like a plaque and stuff. That's pretty cool. Look at the tab that shows the other thing. Oh, cool. Yeah, like when people print it, they don't necessarily need to put LEDs in it. Go the extra mile, but it's really cool when you do some post-processing and give it that extra detail. So good job, Diego. Yeah, what about excuse I could use to remake it? Besides the prop maker. Right, the prop maker, then maybe a new Halo game will come out at some point. As an energy. I was gonna say, I don't know if they've worn out their welcome with the mood for the show. Right, the show wasn't... I don't know about the show. I thought the first episode was fine, but then I kind of lost interest. Mm-hmm. Yeah, all right. After that, we have two more to get through. This was posted by Tim. They made the very timely TVA time stick from Loki, the Disney plus TV show, which just started. They just released it in the stores. Yeah, Disney has their own version, which is like $100. Yeah. Or you could build your own for like... Super heavy. I think we listened to some of the sound effects like somebody had. They sounded awful. Did they really? Yeah. Oh boy. Oh boy. This is cool. Timbie says, really like the model, decided to not use the electronics for now and lengthen the handle grip section. Nice remix. Now I'm gonna experiment with some different infills and wall counts for the diffuser as I do not have translucent filament. Yeah, I mean, it looks great. It looks good, doesn't it? Yeah, I like the extension of the handle. Looks good. Yeah, let's do it. Yeah, it's fully customizable. You could put a flashlight in there if you want. I think I did that originally, but I wanted to have the sound effects and the accelerometer controls. So when you actually whack it, it makes some really cool sound effects. This would be a good remix for the new prop maker because this one uses the M4 and the feather wing. So you'd be able to make it a little bit easier with just one board or just put a flashlight in there. Like I said, I think it's pretty cool. And it's funny that you can DIY a better version than Disney. The wood section has this totally fake wood grain texture. You can do the wood grain too, I guess. You could probably do it better, yeah. Yeah, you could probably do it better, yeah. Do some nice finishing. And this is all done with no finishing. It's just the filament colors look really great these days. They just get a nice silky, shiny, glitter silver. A nice matte brown, glossy black. And yeah, it looks finished already. All right, and the last one this week is a make of the dark saber. This was uploaded by a pen dragon on Printables. And it's the dark saber with a little bit of paint job on it to accentuate those silver grip lines. Looks good. Yeah, this would be another one for the new prop maker because this one also used, this was a Bluetooth one though. So it had the BLE feather with the prop maker feather wing. Is that the NRF? Yeah, the NRF, blue fruit feather. Not sure if they put electronics, they just have a photo of it, but it looks good without electronics too. It's fine. And that's this week's community makes shout out to everybody for posting those up. We'll have links in the YouTube video for all the makes if you wanna take a look at those. All right, I'm getting lost in my windows. Believe that is all for this week. Yeah, oh, we have one more make from squid.jpeg. Oh, yeah, that's good. Oh, he has his fading, that was great. Nice. Yeah, that was a movie. I should have done the fading code. I thought you could have done it, no? I think I did and I just wanted it to be on for photos. That's probably what I did. I just have to, that's what's cool about CircuitPython, you can have multiple code files and just switch them out when you wanna do photos or something like that. Yeah, probably could have just, I would have to add a button to like cycle through modes, but that is up to you if you wanna do that. There's already a button mount at the top. So you just switch out the latching button for a momentary button. Wow, that's a really bright stick figure, very creepy. I think it's a 12 or 24 volt, huh? Maybe. Yeah, it's probably like real LED strip, not the noodles. What is this? Maybe later. Cool, one of the Las Vegas sphere. Yeah, yeah. Took advantage of the fact that the actual power switch at the bottom, so I made the cycle modes every time you power. Oh, that's cool, yeah. No, you didn't. That's a good idea. Wow. All right, well, now that does it for the community makes. Thanks, sweetie, and everybody else for posting up. They're makes super cool. Hey, it works. Oh, you did it. Pedro Rock in the new Simona Mac OS. Or you can do, not just do one thumb up, one thumbs, and then you get the one thumb. That's kind of interesting. What are the numbers in it? I don't know all the gestures. What should I tell you when you roll over it? Don't, do they? Yeah, but the new version of Mac OS Simona has these gesture triggering effects, I guess you would call them. Yeah, so, yeah. So you can like, the camera detects you doing thumbs up and then it'll do that animation. I'll be good when you're scratching at like, yeah. Yeah, nothing. Yeah, I don't know what else, what are all the gestures? What are some other, is there a phone? No, I don't know what else. I'm sure there's a search for it. Yeah, all right, well, we've reached the end of the show. Now we're just ranting or chatting about Mac OS features. Thank you, everybody, so much. If you wanna support the show and get some stuff from the Adafruit shop, Fazbear will get you 10% off as a code. Pedro got a phone call from Fazbear. Hello, is this Fazbear? Hello? Hello, where's Gregory? I have to find Gregory. Where's Gregory? No, the pizza. It turns out Gregory is, the Gregory is a lie. He's like a robot. I don't know if I spoiled it, but the game has been out for a little bit now. Yeah. Is there anything else tonight is show and tell hosted by Mr. and Mrs. Lady Eta? Come on by, back-to-back shows. Asking engineer follows up at 8 p.m. Eastern time. Two shows. I'll probably come on with the Hal 9000. Pedro, you can come on with the Fazbear. So just to kind of share about it again, Mara might ask some questions or have some comments. What else? The show tomorrow is JP's Workshop. Where is that? Where are you JP? There you are. JP's Workshop. He's got a learned guy that's, I need a review after the show. Oh crap, yeah. Yeah, the Lego Music Synthio Project. And then Friday is either Tim, Bomi Guy or Scott, Shotcroft doing deep dives on Fridays, 2 p.m. Pacific, 5 p.m. Eastern. And then JP just did his product pick of the week yesterday. It was the Metro board. One of the Metro's, forget which one. But yeah, every Tuesday you get up to 50% off discounts on select JP product picks. Mondays are circuit Python weekly community meetings. And then Sundays are Lady Aida live streams. So tune in to all the days. We have just about every day we have a show. And then we do the show on Wednesdays. All right, I think that's it. I've exhausted my time. Ooh, here's another cool, oh man, look at this. We got a cool prop from Yanni. There's another game franchise that I've never heard of. It's called the OmniTool. Oh, and there's already like a template file. Oh, for laser cutting, oh yeah. It looks pretty dope. All right, we'll take a look. Very cool. Thank you everybody so much for tuning in. We'll see you later tonight on Show & Tell. But until then, remember to make a great day. Bye folks, have a great night.