 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, go! You guys, welcome to today's vlog number 99. This one is cool because we have a live model who's Madison, which is also our receptionist at the salon. So, pretty cool. I've never cut her hair before. What I wanted to do is show you guys a variation of the haircut that I've been doing with the twist cutting on top, but I wanted to show it to you on a live model so that you can see how it works on a real person as well. She's also got slightly wavy hair, so it's going to be really cool to see it that way as well. So, hope you guys enjoy this cut. Let's get started with our step by step. Here we go. Alright guys, so like I said at the beginning, this is our receptionist, Madison. So we're going to give her a haircut. She hasn't had a haircut in a really long time. She just started with us a couple months ago, so she's been holding out, waiting for a new cut. So what I did was I shampooed her first. Now the thing I noticed about Madison's hair right away is because she doesn't cut it very often. The ends are very, like, they were very frayed and weak. So what I wanted to do is put some strength into it. So I'm going to section off the haircut, and what I'm doing is creating a horseshoe section on the top. I really want to separate the top and the bottom for this cut. And then I'm going to separate just the midpoint. So right behind the ear, we're going to split that so that we are just sectioning off the front and the back and the top and the bottom of the head. So to create my sectioning, I'm using my YS Park 339 comb. The thing I love about this comb is it has that tooth in the very front that allows for easier partings and sectioning. So it keeps everything nice and clean. It's got nice, tight teeth, and then a little bit wider teeth on one end. So it's a very versatile comb. I use it in pretty much every cut as a standard. And then I branch off to other combs from there. So then right down center back, create my next parting. And then I go from the occipital bone right to behind the ear, slight diagonal forward, but not too far stretched forward. And just separate that point from the occipital bone to the low crown area and split that in half. What this is going to do is allow me to cut into the base of the hair. And where I talked about, you can see how that's kind of broken and weak. I'm also going to be using a cutting stool. And I'm just going to go in. I'm going to start to create that really strong baseline. So I see where the hair is weak. Madison didn't want to lose a lot of length. That's a very salon reality feeling. So I look at where the hair starts to look weaker. And that's where I start my line. With some people, this might have to be a little bit higher. Some people, it can be a little bit lower. We're taking about two inches off of our hair to get a clean line going, a nice solid base. And then we'll go through and start our layering after that. So I comb everything down a couple inches at a time, bringing more hair down to it. Using that as a stationary guide, using her back as a flat surface, and just creating that solid line through. The thing I like about using a cutting stool, we got our cutting stool at MinervaBeauty.com. The thing I like about using one is that it allows when you're working with somebody with longer hair. I'm a taller person, about six foot. So when I'm working on somebody, Madison's nice and tall, but she also has really a pretty long hair. So if I were to try to work without using a stool, I'd have to be bending my back quite a bit, and I'd be very uncomfortable. And like we talked about in past videos, the more uncomfortable you are, the more inconsistent your haircut will be. So I want to stay nice and comfortable. This is my favorite part right here. This is where we're going to start to add in the layering in the very back portion. So we go from basically the occipital bone up to the crown area, and I'm going to over direct it up. Now a lot of people when I did this on the mannequin before, they were like, this would be weird and uncomfortable if I had a guest sitting in a chair. Well, you can see right here that I take the hair, I bend Madison's head down. So it's actually a really comfortable position to create that layering, and you're doing condensed cutting. So it's allowing you a lot of freedom and quick technique. So in the salon, we talk about time being money and all of that and bringing value to what you're doing. So if I over direct that entire panel up, and cut it, it's going to give me nice uniform layers and in a quick result. So now the other thing that I'm going to do, and this is a little bit of a change from what we did on the mannequin. So if you watch vlog number 97, you'll see me do this cut on a mannequin. I don't over direct the hair forward like this, but what I'm doing with Madison is I'm creating a little bit more of a face frame, which I think will flatter her face a little bit more. So you have somebody that, I'm not trying to create too much separation in the face frame. I want it to wrap right underneath, about four inches underneath her chin and just kind of have it nice and soft there. So now we're going to work through the top. I create a horizontal section across. I grab a piece from the edge. You can see that little piece that I've left out there. That's going to be my guideline from the face frame. With Madison, I didn't want to create a short bang because she didn't want short bangs. So I go a little bit longer with the technique, which totally works. And I go through and I over direct the hair down, twist it and give it a cut. That twist, what that does is it over directs the hair on both sides. So it gives it kind of a U shape in the very front, which is a really nice soft feeling to the layering. Now, as I move through the back U section, I do a little bit heavier or not heavier, but higher elevation. And that higher elevation is going to remove a little bit extra weight. So as I move back on her head shape, I give it a little bit higher elevation as I work through it, gives me a lighter feeling. So here's the last section. You'll notice I don't grab the entire thing altogether, just a little bit at a time, use a little bit for my guide, over direct it forward and there we go. There is our technique. You see the layering. So I'm going through with the brush. What I want to do is use my Ergo paddle brush to just kind of pass through the hair. The other thing that I didn't mention is the scissor that I used to cut her hair. I used the DB20 scissor from Mizetani. It's the one that we sell on our website. I love that scissor, use it for everything. It's a 5.7 inch scissor. So anytime I'm doing precision cutting or cutting thicker hair, I like using a shorter blade and also that scissor is nanopowder metal which helps grip the hair and cut nice thick coarse hair really, really well. Great lines in it. So now I power dry her with the Dyson blow dryer and using the foam or the mousse in her hair. And then what I'm going to do is section off the top and then start working my round brushes. So I'm using the Ergo round brushes, a little bit wider brush. I didn't want to go too big with the round brush because that gives you more of a straighter look and I didn't want to go too small because I didn't want to create too much wave and curl in it yet. So this is the Joico thermal protectant they also sent me. And so I spray that in because I'm about 90% dry on the hair and then as I go through it I'm going to have that little bit of added protection in there. So there's my brush. You can see it's not a super wide round brush. I just want to get some volume and also polish the cuticle of the hair down. So I go through there over and over again you're going to see me working that brush. That's what gives it that shine you could see. So it makes your hair look nice and healthy. Gives it that shine and then I'm going to go through with an iron actually at the very end. So just kicking up that volume my brush is always elevating. If you think about hair cutting you elevate the hair. It gives it a nice light layered feel. It's the same with blow drying the more you elevate it the higher the volume is going to be the more light feel it's going to have towards the ends. Same thing I let it cool. I think a lot of people just quickly would take their brush out. You got to let it cool down a bit and then I kind of unwrap the brush so that I don't pull that curl out of there that wave that I've put in there. I even went back through in this section and did it again because I felt like it just didn't quite have that polish on it that I wanted. So you never want to skimp on something just go back in there and rework it. So last little bit on the side you'll notice everything's kind of coming off of the face. So my thought was if I iron or if I work the blow dryer and work the brush off of the face it'll open everything up. So now we move into the last section of the blow dry which is that U shape section. What I'm going to do is split that basically in half and as I work through the top the very first half of this section is going to be blown dry back towards me towards the back of the head and then the front part is going to be blown dry forward towards the face to give it maximum volume right in the very front but in the back I didn't need all that volume. Madison's already got a high density of hair she's got a lot of hair. So I wasn't worried about it not having the volume or the fullness but I did want to make sure that I was still lifting that brush nice and high working polishing from the base to the mid shaft to the ends and getting the look exactly the way I want it but I didn't need to get too much volume. Now if they had finer fabric of hair I might have rolled the entire top section forward which would have given me maximum volume but like I said with Madison's hair it's pretty good to go as long as you're giving it a little bit of that elevation throughout the blow dryer. The other thing I definitely, you know it's the elephant in the room I am using the Dyson blow dryer. Those of you that follow me know my stance on it I definitely like the blow dryer it is something that I use in the salon now. I didn't mind spending the extra money on it but I do believe that most professional dryers are just as good as this dryer the thing I like about it I like the lightweight feel of it I like anything that's new technology so I didn't mind spending money on that but I pretty much feel that you're paying for the new technology with that blow dryer I don't think it's necessarily that it's gonna blow dry your hair so much better than a professional dryer. I do strongly feel that you should not go cheap on a blow dryer though don't just run and grab a $20 blow dryer make sure that it has key benefits for your hair it's ionic and different things that it's not just blow drying your hair with extreme heat it's blow drying your hair with more modern technology so just make sure a key thing to know is if you're spending between $60 to $200 on a blow dryer you're gonna be pretty good to go and safe in that regard so last little bit like I said I'm blow drying everything forward wrapping it towards the face instead of away from the face what that's gonna do is give me that maximum volume in there and I wanted to really pop it up in the fringe area we did cut some of that face framing around so this is gonna give me all that volume that I'm looking for and if you guys aren't a hairdresser out there and you are watching this video and this could be the interesting part for you when we look at the blow dry I'm passing that blow dryer the nozzle is aiming down over top of the cuticle of the hair the air flow of the blow dryer should be passing down the hair strand that's gonna give you the most shine so you can see all those layers coming to life now I'm gonna go through this is actually a Palm Mitchell curling iron it's I think a one and a half inch iron I'm going through leaving the ends out even though they have a little bit of curl from the brush but I didn't wanna curl them so much cause I'm gonna pull those curls out at the end the trick here is to go through get that curl set let it cool and then you can run your hands through it and break it up later but you don't wanna pull and tug on it too much because you will lose the curl while the hair is still hot so same thing curling everything off of the face curling it back creating the style last few sections right on the top this again off of the face curling it back we already created the volume using the brush so this is really just to work the ends and the mid shaft and just to kind of give it that curl back each section I'm taking I'm kind of laying it on top of the other so it just gets it out of the way but you're not clipping it anytime you add a clip to the hair you start to bend it so I just wanna allow the hair to do its thing dry the, or cool down the way it's supposed to cool down and you'll get a better result there is the last one you can see all those curls see how healthy her hair looks now we definitely cleaned it up a lot it's like brought all new life to the hair so if you guys like this video definitely let me know in the comments below we're gonna finish it off this is I believe just a firm hold hairspray this is from Joyco as well just going through there separating the pieces pulling the hair out I don't, you don't wanna leave it curled the way it was so I like to stretch those curls out break them up give it a more natural feel so if you guys like it hit the like button let me know below if you have any questions thanks for watching All right guys like always if you liked the cut then hit the subscribe button hit the like button share this video with all of your friends out there and if you have any questions and post them in the comments below I love hearing your questions and also you guys know that I love seeing if you've made it this far in the video post that below as well thank you guys so much for watching I'll see you on the next video