 Nora-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo-yoo Alright. So, um, it was a catchy tune. It was good. Um, so first up, um, it's not a new product, it's just a back-and-stock which is just as important. Back-and-stock! We got the microbit bundles. Microbit V2 go bundles. We got a shipment of them, I think we still have some in stock. We do, we do have a limit of five per customer because educators have been waiting for these for a really long time. A lot of them switch over to circuit playgrounds, but that's okay. We have these if you want them. Pick them up. Next up. Okay, we've got two of these ultra skinny UTP cables. So, you know, these will work for cat five use with Ethernet, like Gigabit Ethernet or 100 megabit Ethernet. But I'd also know people tend to use these RJ45 connectors for DIY projects when they have to like, you know, get eight neopixel signals over from one side to the other. And so, we wanted to have these ultra skinny cables. You know, of course the connectors are still kind of chunky, but the cables themselves are only three millimeters. And if you're okay with not having, you know, full metal shielding on the cable jacket, then these will fit around and curve through your project much more easily. So, we have these in both one meter and one foot length. Okay, next up. Next up. Get some old projects with the RS232 connector on them. We now have an FTDI cable that has USB-C on one end, and RS232 on the other. Inside is an FTDI FT232 RL cable, plus a level shifter converter slash a charge pump that will take the five-volt signal and convert it to plus minus 10 volts. Some lower-cost cables don't give you the full plus or minus. They only go from like zero to 10, and it'll work sometimes. But this one actually goes from negative at least six to positive at least six. It's also using the FTDI chipset, which is extremely reliable and high quality. It's got drivers for every operating system. So, if you're trying to connect to some old equipment, or maybe you just want to get your pump outlet up and running again with your M1 MacBook Pro, this cable will definitely do the job. I'm going to tell everyone this is the new lightning cable from Apple. Yeah. I'm going to just like... I'm going to... It's called drop lifting. I'm going to put this in the Apple store. Yeah. I just say like... We have to get a white one. New, yeah, new lightning cable. Okay, next up. Okay. Next up, by request, JP wanted us to get some good looking knobs. Yeah. So, we got a few different colors, and this is just the top view. Top. So, we got gold is best. Gold is best. Cherry red. Yeah. Blue steel. Silver fox. Is that what we're calling it? Yeah. Yeah. And Adafruit black. So, five colors. These are machined solid chunk, anodized aluminum, knurled knobs. They feel great. They're 20 millimeters, while I'll show them on the overhead, by 15 millimeters tall. They have a set screw, if you go to the next image. Yeah, I was going to say, that's kind of like the best part of these. Yeah. So, the reason that it's great that they have a set screw is that the inside, as you go to this image here, the inside is a six millimeter drilled out core with a set screw, which means that you can use it with rotary encoders or potentiometers, or really anything that uses a six millimeter shaft, which is kind of standard, whether it's D, T18, or round shaft, and then you just use the set screw to set it. So, it's kind of a universal potentiometer rotary encoder knob. I mean, these are great. These are sometimes used in very nice guitar pedals or guitar mods, or synthesizers, but I think they just are a very high quality knob, and I like to have nice knobs. Sometimes, that finish really makes your project stand out. So, I can show these on the overhead. Yeah, go for it. I'll keep showing these foes until you get there. And you're there. Okay, so, sorry, gold, silver, blue, red one. Okay. So, yeah, these are, and I can see the scale because you've got my fingers in the way. Human hand. Human hand, and then I also have a potentiometer. So, this is like a T18 knob. So, you can see here the set screw. So, this fits in nicely. You adjust it the way you want. And then, this is a two millimeter hex wrench. You just crank it down finger tight. And then now, you've got a nice knob with an indicator. This one has a black paint, but the rest one are white paint. And they look really cool, and they're beautiful. They're anodized, so they're durable, and they've come in these beautiful jewel tone colors. So, thanks JP for recommending them. All right, the stars show tonight. Besides you, Lady Aida, our community, our customers, our Adafruit team, and everyone who helps make this thing go is... A new breakout, the PCF-8574. So, this is a Astema QT breakout for an iSquad C GPIO expander. You know, if you've been watching our shows, we can't get the MCP-28. I'm sorry, 23.017 or 08 series GPIO expander. I love them, but they're not available. So, I thought I'd expand my outlook and find some alternatives. So, the PCF-8574 is a low-cost expander from TI, and it's available, which is the most important thing. It's got eight pins. You can control it over iSquad C. One nice thing about it is it has three address pins on the back. You want this one? Yeah, the back. So, you can have up to eight of these connected. The default address is 0x20 hex, but you can have eight. So, that's like 64 total GPIO. It's got Stema QT, so it's plug-and-play. So, it's interesting about this chip. I do want to mention, because it took me like a few minutes to grok what's going on. It's extremely simple. There's drivers for like... We wrote drivers for Arduino and Circuit Python, but honestly, it's such a common expander. You're going to find drivers for almost any platform. You basically read and write just eight bits directly to the iSquad C address, and there's no specific direction pins. So, what you're used to with most IO expanders is you have a direction, and then you can also set pull-ups. So, you have the input, and then the input can be higher or low, or the output, higher or low, and then you can add pull-ups as well. So, this chip doesn't do that. Instead, it actually has two modes. So, each IO can either be an input with a very weak pull-up, about 100K, or an output that's sinking current. And what that means is that it basically can act as a bidirectional IO. If you want to be an input, you turn it on with that weak pull-up, and then you can, by default, it reads high, and if the whatever signal is sent low, you read low. And if it's floating, it reads high. So, if you have a button, for example, I'll show this on the overhead. So, I have two IOs here, because this is actually the most confusing is buttons and LEDs. Note that I didn't have a resistor with the LED because I'm just, I'm being cheap and fast here. So, the button goes between ground and the IO number one. You cannot connect a button from an IO pin to high. There's no such thing as a pull-down. There's only this light built-in pull-up. But when I press this button, it can detect that I'm shorting the input to ground. And then what it'll do is the code running in Arduino on this QT Pi, reads that through I2C, and then writes P7 to be that output low. So, if you want to read an input, you basically have a built-in pull-up, if you want to drive an LED, like something that's really sinking current, the LED has to be connected from positive, the anode to positive, and then common cathode. So, you ground the LED to turn it on. If you tried to connect this LED from the output pin to ground, there's no such thing as sourcing current. You can only sync current. It only matters, again, with an LED. You can only connect it from high to the GPIO, not the other way around. And a button, you can only use that built-in light pull-up. If you're using signal, like you're using this to trigger a reset pin, or communicate with another digital circuit, that light pull-up will always signal a high voltage, and turning it to an output low will signal a low voltage. So, as long as the input impedance of whatever digital circuit you connect it to is greater than 100K, which is almost everything that does digital circuitry, other than very old TTL logic, this will work just fine. It's just a bit of a funkiness. You can think of it basically as an open-drain IO expander. That said, it works quite well, as long as you're just aware of the button and LED situation, you know, the way you have to hook them up. It's extremely fast because there's only one register, and it works with a wide range of voltages and a wide range of I-squared C frequencies. That's new products.