 Hi, what's up you guys, this is your girl Silwit with Bred and welcome back again to my YouTube channel So today we are going to learn on how to properly sew the lapel or notched collar. In this tutorial I'm going to demonstrate you guys the proper way or technique of sewing your ready-to-wear lapel collar By the way, I have a separate tutorial for the basic lapel collar and I will put the link down below To learn the sewing technique for the lapel make it sure to continue on watching this tutorial to see the full creative process Here are the tools and the materials that I'll be using for this tutorial bodice with drafted lapel and collar Pencil Taylor's chalk lots and lots of pins pattern papers fashion rulers masking tape measuring tape tracing wheel fabric and paper scissors Fabric I am using Calvin Klein wool that I bought last year Your dress form and of course your trusty sewing machine I have been using this sewing machine for nine years and I still love it From the front necktip of my bodice, I will be marking out 1 to 8 inch From this mark, I will draw a freehand panel for my facing until the hem of my front bodice There's no exact measurements for this one, but one thing is for sure do not hit the darts When you are done drafting the facing for the front side, you can now move on to the back side Same thing for the back side or the back bodice starting at the necktip mark in 1 to 8 inch And on the center back neck Mark down at least three inches to four inches And now we are going to connect these two marks using the curve ruler Always check if both facings are the same in measurement at the shoulder Now that we are done drafting the front and back facings, get another piece of pattern beeper and we will trace here both front and back facings By the way, at the center back of the back facing, label it on fold as we will cut it on fold directly onto our fabrics Once we are done tracing, we can now move on to the adjustments For the front facing at the tip of the lapel, mark out 1 eighths of an inch From this mark, blend it towards to the breakpoint into nothing These adjustments here is needed to give the lapel an ease when pressing it all down The ease helps us to have beautiful seams and to avoid curling And it also helps us to hide the top stitches Next, I will trace my collar to a new pattern beeper Once I am done tracing the collar, I can now move on to the next step From the tip of the collar, mark out 1 eighths of an inch And from this mark, blend it towards the center back into nothing And now, this is my top collar It is also the same purpose for the top collar We don't want seams to be curling once we've all sewn all of this At the same time, this added ease is also to cover the top stitches that we will do later Next, I will use princess line for my front bodice But for the back, it's just going to be as is Once we are done, we can now put sewing allowances to our patterns And I'll be using 4 eighths of an inch as my sewing allowance for each of my patterns And please do not forget to extend the notches at the breakpoint And the notches at the lapel and the collar We need these notches in order to sew the lapel properly And by the way, for the top and under collars, label the center back on fold We will cut these patterns on fold directly onto our fabrics So let's move on to the next step After putting the sewing allowances on our patterns, let's indicate the grain line The grain line is parallel to the center front and the center back Simply use your ruler and mark out from each center front and center back Approximately 1 inch to 2 inches and draw a vertical line, like this one Once the grain lines are determined, we can now place our patterns into our fabrics My fabric, fortunately, is already on the grain line But placing the patterns can be a bit complicated From the selvage of the fabric, just simply parallel the ruler to the grain line indication on your patterns To find the real grain line on the fabric And this is where we should cut our patterns Do it on the next pattern and onto the next pattern and onto the next pattern I know it's a lot of work, but you gotta cut everything properly You cannot just place a pattern on your fabric and cut them in place That is a big no-no The collars are usually cut on bias, but I prefer to place and cut them on the grain line Once all of your patterns are properly placed on your fabric, we can now start cutting everything After cutting everything, we can now move on to the sewing part Before we remove our pins, let's indicate the notches first The lapel notched, the collar notched, and the braid point Starting off with the braid point, simply snip the notch to your fabric on both facing and bodice sides For the lapel and collar, we will be using a pin and tailor's chalk or pencil Just insert the pin directly to the original mark of the notch And using your tailor's chalk, simply draw or mark on the leg of the pin Like this one We crucially need these important points for our sewing, so attention is a must Do these chalk marks on both facing and bodice And here you go guys, the complete chalk marks of the notches for the lapel and the collar And first, I will construct my front and back bodices And once I'm done, I will connect both front and back bodices' shoulder seams And the front and back facing shoulder seams After that, I am going to press all of the shoulder seams open Next, for the bodice, I will be attaching here the under collar And for the facing, I will be attaching here the top collar Both have the same procedure, so I will be just demonstrating the under collar to the bodice Since our lapel pattern's seam is curved, we can snip the curved lines to ease the tension before pinning everything in place on the collar The sole purpose of snipping is for the spreading So we can lay the fabric flat and it will be easy for us to sew it Just don't snip too much beyond the sewing allowance First, align the center back notches on the fold And pin on the back first Next, match the chalk marks of the collar to the lapel These marks should be aligned at all times You can pin everything directly on the marks to avoid confusion Just like this one The marks or the notches on both lapel and collar are the indications where we should stop sewing Control your speed by the way for sewing the collar to the lapel And now, it's time to sew the under collar to the bodice And if you guys can see here, I will be stopping exactly at the point or the chalk mark where we did earlier at the lapel and the collar notches And don't forget guys to back tack And if you guys can see here, I've stopped the stitch line exactly at the chalk marks And this is how the under collar to the bodice should look like Next, I will be attaching my facing to my top collar As I've said earlier, it is the same procedure as my bodice and under collar Once we are done assembling the bodice to the under collar and the facing to the top collar, it's time to give the seams a press Press all of your seams open as every seam of the lapel sewing are vital And we will all be using all of them Like literally all of them Once we are done with the pressing, we can now move on to the next step First, I will connect the collars Right side to right side, I will sew the top collar and the under collar together I will be sewing the seams by 4 eighths of an inch Start sewing slowly and don't forget to back tack Once we are done attaching the collars together, we will send or push all of the collar seams towards the under collar like this one And we will do top stitching on the under collar side Remember, all seams should be on the under collar side For the top stitching, I am going to use 1mm top stitch from the seam line And there you go Next, I will flip over the facing right side to the bodice side and I will assemble the lapels For the lapel, do not forget to match the break point notches Patch them together and sew Once I am done, I am going to snip the break point notch, not going beyond the stitch line I'll also pin the break point notch for reference For the lapel, we will push or send all of the seams at the facing side first And top stitch by 1mm Stop stitching exactly at the break point And next, we will shift this top stitch to the bodice side I will send all of the seams to the bodice side And top stitch the bodice side of the lapel by 1mm Top stitch the bodice side of the lapel all the way up So there you go, simple as that The purpose of shifting the top stitch from facing to the bodice side Is to cover the stitches and also to give a nice fall for the lapel And now the notch is all we have left to work with I will start first with the collar We are going to start by folding all of our seams towards the under collar And if you have noticed, there is an excess and that is alright Do not panic The excess is the ease for the collar to hide the stitches and also to avoid curling for the seams This is what we did earlier Next, pin everything in place And make sure there are no extra lapel seams underneath Push all of the seams to be safe Start sewing slowly and by the first three stitches, don't forget the back tack We are going to end the stitch line exactly at the last stitch from the collar mark Once you have reached the mark, back tack to secure to end the stitch line Do not sew beyond the chalk marks And here you go, this is how the collar should be sewn And as you guys can see, I didn't go beyond the yellow stitch line or the chalk marks of the collar Next is the lapel seam Push all of the collar seams to make it sure you won't hit them or sew them Fold all of the seams of the lapel going towards the bodice side and also the excess or the ease Start stitching slowly and back tack And when you've reached the mark of the lapel, make it sure to back tack to secure to end the stitch line Do not sew beyond the chalk marks And here you go, this is how the lapel should be sewn And as you guys can see, I didn't go beyond the yellow stitch line or the chalk marks of the lapel Now we are done assembling the collar to the lapel To turn over the collar and the lapel, we must push the edges using your fingers or your thumb And push the pointy tip of the collar and the lapel gently And there you go, all that we need here is a good pressing And as you guys can see here, I gave the facing a press And also pressed the collar and the lapel for a clean finish Once we have flattened the lapel and the collar, we can now move on to the neckline So if you guys have noticed at the neckline, it is still open and the collar and the lapel are still exposed To give it a clean finish at the open seam on the neckline that we did earlier We will topstitch both seams to close the collar to lapel I'm just going to sew these seams together by two-eighths of an inch Ending approximately two to three inches from the lapel And here you go, everything is closed and not exposed This gives me a clean finish to my lapel and it is in place and not moving at all And lastly, I will sew the side seams of the bodice and yes, we are done Et voila! Here is my finished mock-up for the lapel sewing And if you guys can see here, the fall of the lapel is achieved thanks to the shifting technique that we did earlier From here, we couldn't see the top stitches And in here, if you flip it over, the stitches are covered by the ease or the excess we did on the tip of the lapel and the tip of the collar I am very satisfied with the finished product and I hope you guys are too Anyway, you guys, I hope this sewing tutorial gave you enough tips and techniques on how to properly sew your lapel or notched collar And if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up and subscribe to my youtube channel, Soap It With Bread And I will see you guys on the next tutorial A piento