 Hey guys, Heather Cottonoy here, artistic director at John Paul Mitchell Systems. This is Amy. We're going to be working through a beautiful block color dimensional coloring technique. You can see that Amy's hair has her natural regrowth for a few inches down to about that mid shaft and ends. With the lighter shade of dimension, we're going to come through with 8MB Paul Mitchell The Color XG and 20 volume. This is mixed one part color to one and a half parts of your developer. That way we're going to get a beautiful soft even lift scalp through ends. I'm starting off by taking a horizontal diagonal back section on the lower part of Amy's head shape so that we have a beautiful light dimension traveling all the way into the ends of the perimeter of her haircut knowing that she has beautiful long layers. As I'm working through with the 8MB, you can see that I'm saturating everything thoroughly from scalp and I'll flip a little bit more of those lengths and ends up into that foil so that we have a nice even saturation so she gets a beautiful light transition all the way into the perimeter of her hair. You can see that my section size is about one inch thick so I'll elevate the hair and saturate the underneath portion. This is also really going to help keep my foil stabilized and locked in place as I'm going to continue to work multiple shades in through the rest of Amy's base color. Working my 8MB again you can see I have a side to side swiping motion. This again is going to ensure I have thorough saturation through that one inch thick subsection. The next section of the light dimension we'll be creating is a little higher on Amy's head shape. Again knowing that Amy's haircut consists of longer layers, I want to be sure my dimension travels through the shortest length of the layers into the longest length of the layers. So that section size again is about one inch thick. Being a little higher on the head shape is going to again allow that dimension to trickle through the top veil of her natural color. Flip and fold the rest of the length into that same foil. Be sure to thoroughly saturate where you fold that hair into the foil to ensure that you have a consistency in lightness all the way through the length of Amy's hair. So again that last area on this side full saturation 8MB 20 volume and we're going to pack it that up to isolate it from the base color. We're going to repeat this process on the opposite side working one lower horizontal diagonal back and one higher horizontal diagonal back. Now we're going to come through and section out the rest of Amy's hair starting from the top working our way down to set us up for success when we apply the base color. Really being sure to clip and isolate that top layer of foils and I'm going to use the midsection of her natural hair to also hold those foils up and away so that I can have a nice easy application starting from the bottom of the hair up into the top. Equal parts of 6N, 7N and 8MT in the demi to equal parts of your palmitial processing liquid. The saturation and application is going to start in the front of the hairline on scalp all the way in through the ends in certain areas. I'm also going to recycle and reuse some of the lightness Amy has with a different formula. So as I saturate in certain areas I'm inspecting the ends of the hair. If the ends of the hair are living a little bit lighter into about a 7 or 8 level I'm going to isolate and keep those out and we'll jump into another formula to neutralize that. Applying scalp into the ends with this formula I'm really honoring Amy's natural hair color. Knowing that Amy hasn't visited the salon in quite some time I want to make sure I can give her richness and depth without having a harsh line of demarcation where she's committed to come back through and keep that maintenance. In thicker areas of my sectioning you'll notice that I'm applying the demi to the scalp everywhere and what that does for me is it expedites my application time where I can thoroughly saturate through the mids and ends more easily. This is the area of the ends in the hair where you notice they're a bit lighter so I'm keeping those out again seeing that those are a little bit more of a orange based faded out color. I have to change my formula to really isolate and neutralize that shade. So right in that front again this is our deeper formula of the demi equal parts 6N7N and 8MT our matte series to honor her cool natural shade. Also eliminate a little bit of that red orange that's coming through on the mid area of Amy's hair from her faded previous color. Right here you can see I'm going to isolate and keep those ends out. Those ends are living more at a level 7 or 8 so we're going to create a perfect formula to neutralize a little more of the yellow gold in Amy's hair. We'll continue to work up the head shape. On those lighter ends equal parts of 8N and 6BV with clear shine to allow a little softness and translucent to our deposit with your palmatial processing liquid. So the lighter edges of the hair that are living now at that level 7 you can really see that orange gold reflection coming through the blue violet base along with the end from our level 8 is going to help to control how aggressive the blue violet can tend to be sometimes especially on the ends where it's a lot more porous. I really am looking to neutralize rather than jumping on the other side and cooling out the ends. So you'll see our our BV mixed in with our N is really going to be a nice compliment compliment to isolate and neutralize that warmth coming through on Amy's hair. She'll have a 20 minute processing time and we're going to come through and give her a beautifully undone style with the memory shaper from invisible wear. Working that product all the way through and creating a wonderful polished blowout right there you can see is the lightness from our 8NB trickling through. I'm going to spray in our orbit hairspray prior to curling the hair to give us a nice soft hold and a touchable feel as we create these beautiful waves in Amy's new hair color. I love that transition of the lightness with the depth that you can see and how we really cooled down the whole look of Amy's hairstyle. With the undone texture hairspray I'm really going to isolate and define certain areas and waves within Amy's hair for her to have a beautiful soft curly look. Now the biggest thing knowing that Amy's hair does tend to fade out and those warmer shades pull through I have to be sure to send her with the perfect maintenance that she can maintain at home to richen up her color when she sees any of that faded. With color craft we're going to customize and create a certain conditioner that Amy can use specifically for her hair type and her hair color formula. With the combination of the color craft cacao, honeycomb, and lapis cacao is our cooler brown into the color craft but I want to really be sure with the honeycomb and the lapis that yellow and that blue creating a green base to resist any of that red faded. Thank you guys so much for any more formulation tips or techniques visit PaulMitchellPro.com