 Working on something that's not a CRT, hopefully people will forgive me for it. The main power supply. High voltage area. That's got to be capacitor failure. Just look at that. I can't wait to pull this out and see what it looks like. Hey everybody, welcome back today to Retro Tech. I hope you're having a wonderful new year. It's January and so that's a great time to start looking at some new projects and some new things and maybe even getting outside of our comfort zone and trying some different stuff we normally wouldn't look at. Over the holiday season I was able to get a 3D printer and this is my first experience with a 3D printer. I wound up getting the Ender 3V2 and that's right over here over my shoulder but I've been practicing just tuning it up, printing parts, printing random little test items like toys, figurines. There's nothing that impressive. I only bring this up because I have been trying to think of some ideas for things to print that are CRT related. For example, I've been working on this Sony emblem replacement which this is again just plastic and there are some issues with it. But this was one of the first prints I was able to get done successfully so I was kind of happy about it and it could technically be used if I wanted to use it but that was something that I'm kind of interested in if there's anything you'd like me to try out or if you have any files that you want to submit that you've already tried for a PVM or BVM or some other CRT problem. Send those to me or put them in the comments. I'll link to that and I'll check it out maybe for future reference and work. Now today's video is not about the 3D printer. I just was mentioning that but it is about something else new so my friend Bob over at RetroRGB as you know got the JVCD series 36 inch television which I had refurbished. It belongs to him now and what he did was he left me with some stuff. One of the things he left me with was this. A Sony PVM that is not a CRT. This one is an LCD screen. We're looking at the LMD 1420 model of 14 inch LCD screen. Now the thing that sucks about this is there's no stand for it so it's kind of awkward to hold. I'm going to let you see a closer look at it here in a minute and the other issue is Bob told me that the thing doesn't work so I'm not sure if this is something he actually wants back or if he was just donating it to me for the case of science but either way we're going to tear into this thing after testing it out and we'll see if it's just a power issue. So we'll just start with some troubleshooting of this thing by seeing whether it powers on or not and then we'll take it apart and go from there but I'm kind of excited to look at this new thing completely new. It does have a plethora of inputs. Let's take a closer look now at it. Alright let's take a closer look at the Sony LMD 1420. First off you'll notice the screen does have a couple of scuffs and scratches in the surface and there's just really nothing we'll be able to do about that. I'll clean it the best I can and if there is a protective layer or something on the glass, well let's say glass but the display screen, then we'll get rid of that but I doubt there is on this. Notice right away we have a tiny mono audio speaker so they did keep the mono audio speaker on these and we've got our power button over here, volume, menu, enter, up and down, reset. Some of the same kind of inputs. You'll notice we have a line A, B, RGB slash component, sync, blue only, scan, aspect and SDI support. Other than that it's just a pretty standard LCD screen from the front of it. We've got the Sony logo and we've got a tally light at the top. One of the last things I'll mention it does have a true 14 inch screen and that's something that the Sony CRTs do not have. They're actually 13 inches. Let's flip this over. Take a quick look at the back. This LCD monitor does do 100 to 240 volts, 50 to 60 Hertz, 1.2 to 0.06 amps, manufactured in February of 2006. This would normally be where our mounting bracket would go for either a desktop style plate or you could use some kind of a screen mount to mount it to the wall or something else. We have our standard power input here on our power supply and then if we look over to our inputs, we've obviously got line A, which is S-video composite. Then we've got daisy chains out, audio in for mono audio. Line B appears to be only a composite input and output. Then we've got RGB slash component support over here with our sync that we can either leave in green or change over here to external sync, audio option in where you can add an option board and this one does use a serial style cable to add an option card for SDI. I do not have that card but that's okay. Then there's our audio input. Our AC power here is ready to go. I'm plugging it in and then I'm going to turn it around and we'll see if it powers on. First I'll make sure the power button is not turned on so it doesn't just do something. Let's keep that suspense for when we turn this around. It shouldn't be like a CRT where it needs a second to warm up but can you believe I'm even working on something that's not a CRT? Hopefully people will forgive me for it. Let's go for it. Powering on I guess. I do hear a little faint noise. It's kind of funny. It's almost like a CRT high pitch hum very light but as you can tell we're not getting any kind of power indicator here. I am getting just a little bit of feedback noise but no power at all. No response from any kind of switching. So we get to start by looking at our power supply and we'll have to take this apart to do that. There's little clips on the shell so you have to use a flat head screwdriver and then individually get them out of the way without trying to crack the plastic which I know is very difficult to do on even 15 year old plastic like this. There's a good chance some of it will crack. They crack sections on it so hopefully we can minimize that kind of damage and still get it out without busting anything. I'm just not sure. So again I've never opened one of these. There on that side. The last thing you're really going to do is be forceful with any of this. There we go. Should mostly have it together. Let's take a closer look up at these clips. They're on every single side. See those clips. And here we have a fresh look at our board. This is our power area. See how our AC comes in over here and then travels over into this board. So we've got a couple fuses we can test for continuity and if we're lucky maybe they'll be blown. Otherwise we may have something else in this such as a bad capacitor. There's quite a few of them in here or even one of these transistors down here could have gone bad and there are quite a few of those. So this is just again the main power supply. High voltage area and hopefully we'll get lucky and it'll just be a cap problem. Just disconnect our connection right here and probably probe these and see if we're getting any voltage too. That'll help us troubleshoot a little bit more. Let's start again by testing our fuses right here. I've got my multimeter and I'm using continuity and my meter will make a noise that you guys should hear when there is continuity make that beep. So the first thing we're going to do is just check some of these fuses out. This first one down here we should hear a beep. Fuse is good. Over here, same thing. That fuse is good. I also need to inspect and make sure that there's not any solid state fuses in here or soldered into place fuses. I didn't see any off the get go but let's just take a quick look and see. If I inspect closer I'm going to zoom in a little bit right over in this area. You'll notice this component and then these two components up here. These are fuses. They say F for fuse and then they have a 4 amp 125 volt rating. We should test all three of these just like we did the other fuses a second ago. Let's start with the bottom fuse. That one's good. Now the one above it. That one's good and then finally the top one. Okay. None of the fuses so far are blown. Let's continue on and see what else we can discover. I've been closely inspecting this power supply more and more and one of the first things I noticed upon further inspection is these capacitors right here. They're 16 volts, 680 microfarad. They're starting to swell up and get cones on the top of them. And worse than that it appears that some of them have even started leaking out onto our PCB and most definitely that's contributing to our failure. Let's take a look under this one right here specifically C704. Look at that. Do you see how there's this crust right under there? That's got to be capacitor failure. That's what's causing our breakdown issues and again all I did to start off with was look at the capacitors and I noticed these weren't as flat as the others or as they should have been. Now these are Rubicons so they are high quality but they failed here. So definitely at the least we need to replace these three capacitors right here and when we remove them we'll have to thoroughly clean this area and make sure that nothing's damaged. I don't see a lot of traces on the top of this board thankfully so that's hopefully a good sign that we haven't damaged too much on the board itself but just look at that. I can't wait to pull this out and see what it looks like. Here's just one closer look at this board and these awful capacitors definitely going to be causing an issue. So we may have more problems beyond this but at least these are most likely the power problems are coming from these capacitors. Before I removed these capacitors I did document them here on this list and I will have a full cap kit here and I'll put a link to that in the description but what I'm going to do now is I'm going to use my HACCO here and remove all these capacitors and then I'll show you what the board looks like and the capacitors after we get them out. Well, here is our circuit board. You will notice that I've left four capacitors in place those all appear to be good and honestly out of all the ones that I removed only three appear to be completely dead and I'll show you those closer here in a second just wanted to show you the view of this board from this side and then if we flip it over what it looks like there's a lot of cooked kind of residue on here and I'm imagining that's probably some of the splattered insides from those capacitors that blew up and left this crustacean here's a close close look at the pads on the component side for especially C705, 04 and 06 those all really got bad discharge and then have a thick nasty black residue on there so I need to clean that off and the other ones didn't look as bad look how clean they were underneath it and I haven't cleaned this board really at all I did clean out the solder from the holes outside of that I haven't cleaned anything yet we're going to clean the rest of this here's the other section up at this other heat sink for 703, 714 and 715 and again those don't appear to be burned out at all so these are the ones we're going to have to replace here's a closer look at our three capacitors just this disgusting mess it was coming out of there a lot of fish oil other mess that one might be the worst this one's pretty bad too though and these definitely are going to prevent us from getting power into our monitor so we're going to need to replace these now to make this kit I did go and physically read each value and then I also checked to make sure that the negative end matched the negative end on the board before I removed any of the capacitors and they all did so I made my kit based on that now if we wanted perfection in our kit we could use this tool right here so we can see what size our capacitors are just put this in here and it'll give you a size see we're right at about 8mm for the outside diameter on these and then if we wanted to we could even measure our top diameter which should be about 21mm but it's a little expanded it could be 20mm so if you want to mark down these measurements and then you can even it's better to use the holes on the board here since they're not bent but you can actually go through here and measure the distance between the holes on this pad and that will give you 3.3mm for example then we can go and try to get a capacitor that will accurately fit in there and this is just a I can't even think of these are called calipers so anyway this is a good little handy tool if you want to have the right measurement and size for your capacitor this can be gotten pretty cheap but that's how you're going to need to that's what I'm going to need to do today and I'm going to need to order these caps before we get into replacing any caps though we're going to need to clean this board and again we're just going to put it in this nice container here and the best thing to get started off to clean this will just be some isopropyl alcohol and that's really what I'm going to concentrate cleaning at least our one dirty spot right here and I'll use our ESD brushes to get a lot of that goo off hopefully or crust right yeah it's coming off thankfully it's not anything but just some fish juice you thankfully it doesn't smell that bad sometimes you get in here and this stuff will still be rather pungent and aroma is enough to make it nauseous so that's just what I'll continue to do is use this alcohol scrub this board take one last look at it before we start repairing it alright here's one last look at our circuit board down here after I've cleaned it and we're ready now to insert new capacitors I also checked continuity of all these pads especially this one right here you can see what it looks like originally I thought the pad had rotten off or came off with the capacitor or rotted away but I checked continuity and it's actually still good there just lost the shiny copper coating on the top only the bottom actually looks fine no problems down there and I'm not getting it completely cleaned because after we replace the capacitors we will have to clean it again that's just the nature of doing all this work and if you look at my viciously abused hands these capacitors did stick a bunch and caused me to slip with my hot lovely hacko desoldering tool and it hit my thumb right there and then a couple other spots on my fingers so kind of been a rough day on this thing the other big issue is these capacitors are completely different from what I normally use in CRT repair so I don't even have any of the values here available really in stock for replacement specifically the ones that we need to replace so I'm going to have to order my kit and I will publish a copy of this lovely kit here I'll put it down in the description below in case you have an issue and have the same problem with your power board or if you're just following along because you like electronics then that's even better so next time when we come back I'll get the capacitors in and I will replace them and then we will hook this back up and hopefully get power into our LCD PVM and maybe we can run some tests unless we run into more issues but that's going to do it because we've got a long video here today and probably a whole other lengthy video to come on this because I really want to explore the LCD PVMs more thanks for watching today everybody and I'll see you next time with some more retro content hey Brutus oh Brutus I sure hope everybody forgives us for working on an LCD screen what do you think don't much care hopefully we can get this bad boy working right what do you think of it yeah you disgusted by it great let's hope not everybody else is as picky as you are about your CRTs