 Hey YouTube. I've got one of these little little kits off eBay again today, but I didn't get it today. It came through the post. That's what I'm trying to say, not that I ordered it today, it's just arrived instantly. This is a little, it's based on a CD4017BE. YC and it is an infrared remote switch. Well, it's all good, little kit, simple enough to put it together. Before I can see most of the markings, they're clear enough. There you can actually see that. It has an infrared sensor. It's at the top here. That is outputted into a transistor. I can't put it in my fingers where I want it to. And then that goes into this IC anyway. And then that's pushed out again to another transistor, which then switches really. And there's some capacitors and bits and pieces in between. So, yeah, this is it. Now, in the actual advert, it shows that this has got a socket and it doesn't come with a socket. It's a little bit annoying, especially if you wanted the socket yourself. It also has like the yellow, I don't know what the number is of the yellow connector for the power. But it actually just comes with a couple of pins and these things, which is a little bit annoying. Because again, if you wanted the connector for something else, you haven't got it. For the £6 or £19, I don't know what this kit costs. Maybe I shouldn't quibble. But there you go. So that's the kit anyway. I'm going to put it back in here because I decided I didn't want to build the kit. I decided I didn't want to build it. I wanted to build my end. And so I went looking around on the internet and I found a circuit which was pretty similar to this. And I thought, well, I'll give it a go at building it. It's great to build the little kits. You won't practice soldering and such. But it's also good to have these stay apart because I'm going to use these parts. I'm going to use this terminal connector and I'm going to use the relay up here. I don't think I've got a need for the momentary switch. I don't know why it's on here because really your remote should be on the switch. I'm just doing it from a distance using a standard plain, just old remote. This is from an old TV that I don't have anymore. I think it's from a TV that I don't have anymore. And it would have come in really, really handy. And I'll show you what it would have come in really, really handy for. What it would have come in really, really handy to use as a remote control. First, here's my circuit. I've built it already. Now, from this wire here, this wire included and all this, forget it. Forget it. This is a little intercom system I'm working on. And it uses this wire as well because I've pulled out the speakers. The speakers and bits and pieces are down there and we don't need those. And so it's just from these wires basically here, this LED. And this is where the relay should go on the other circuit. But I've decided just for this not to bother with the relay. I just wanted to get the circuit working. I had a couple of fun parts for this circuit. It was pretty straightforward really. I'll put the schematic in the link in the description. It was pretty straightforward. The only thing that I had was my infrared receiver is a different pin out. And it took me a little bit of time to figure out which way to put that round. But that sorted not a problem. If you use the actual infrared receivers that they have on the schematic, you won't have that problem. It's just that I don't have them infrared receivers. They don't come in those kits either. Completely different ones come. And so I've used that. I've connected it to my little power supply here. So if I flip this on, now it's set to 3.7 volts. And the reason why I've done that is because one, the infrared receiver uses less than that to be powered up. And two, the chip does as well. Now if I were going to use this for a heavier load, say, than what the transistor can give, which is only about 100. It's a BC, it's a 558, I think I've got there. Or it could be the 557. Whichever one's the NPN is there. Out of those two. Yeah, 357. It'll be on the schematic. But it's only about 100 milliamps. So I'm just driving this little LED with it. Yeah, it's a pretty straightforward circuit really. Well, it is pretty straightforward if your biggest enemy when you come to constructing this circuit isn't yourself. And with me, it is myself. And so what we got here is I need to pause because I'm short and I smell my dinner. And it doesn't sound, smell that healthy. Just give me a tick. Right, so there we get it. Ah yes, the remote control. Now this is all one and good. But if the, let me switch over. Before we take the transmitter off for something else. You can be playing your circuit if you want. This doesn't work. This doesn't work. Why doesn't this work? And so I started changing things, looking at the schematic again. There we go. So PMP transistor, did I get them the wrong way round? Did I get them the wrong... And it was taking like 120, 130 milligumps. I think it was too much I thought for a circuit. I was supposed to be in standby if it's using all that power. It's probably not very good. But that's when I realised that the pinout on this was completely different to the pinout on the schematic. Mine's a TSO 1780. I don't know what it is actually. I can't be saying what it is because I can't remember. It's on the screen behind there. Maybe I could just bring that up on there actually. So there's the schematic anyway. Okay, so, right. Well, when I realised that that was a problem, I decided to stop taking the TSO apart anymore. And I wouldn't have got the one from my TV. And guess what? Here, here, here. It just pressed it down. It works. Ooh, ooh, ooh. I'm quite chuffed because, um... I say I'm quite chuffed because for a while I put off building these because this is the fourth one that I bought. Now, there is my bought two more. I checked with the people. I said, look, it does come with a socket, doesn't it? It does come with the proper power connectors. And they said, yes, yes. So I ordered two more. And of course it didn't come with a socket and it didn't come with the proper power connectors. But I suppose it did have these, which the other one didn't have, which is this three terminal. That's the lights that I was shining off of. The three terminal connector. So the higher voltage because this transformer, the relay can switch 240 volt. And, oh, it can just switch the uh, uh, which is what I'm going to use it for. I'm going to have this as a remote. And my lights, oh, this will be nice. This is what else I wanted to see as well. But one of these little remotes, and it does. Brilliant. Because they don't actually use... Oh, it's not that good, is it? I'll leave it a second. I don't actually use the bulb for this. I bought this one and the bulb. I'll take it apart, see what was inside, and try and see if I can make any sort of hidden tell about how it worked. But this could come in handy to have in here just to switch my lights on from here. After my battery. And of course this one run off my battery too. As it is at the moment. I'll just put a little voltage regulator. And sort that out. And because it only draws well, it doesn't draw a lot, you know, sort of like 10 milliamps with that running like that. And obviously if I put something else on, I'll just give it a separate power supply to the relay side of it. Yeah. So. Nice. Simple little circuit. It's great. Don't move around. I'm going to build one of these kits. It's great to build the kit. And I've all built a kit. And I'm pretty sure it will do together quite successfully and simply. But it's also great to just build a drawing. If you've got this far guys, cheers for watching. Bye for now.