 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools, quality tools, essential support. All right guys, so today we're working on a self-contained beer cooler. So the problem they say is that it sounds like it's making funny drip noises. Just got here, got to look at it and let's see what we got. So what we've got here is a self-contained little unit. You've got a compressor section here, you've got a compressor section there. According to this, we're on about 39-40 degrees. It's a Kaiser Warner. Looks like it. Our 22 holds eight and a half pounds. I don't know if that's between the two of them or per section. Not 100% positive on that yet. First one like this, I've worked on this particular design. So anyhow, we've got this unit here. You can hear it. All right, like I was saying, the filter dryer here is not even warm. It's kind of cold. Discharge off the compressor, hot gas. I mean, obviously I can leave my hand on it. That makes me wonder, are we grossly overcharged? What's going on here? Receiver's not warm. Compressor just does not appear that it's pumping. So let's go ahead and see if we can get this ice off here so we can maybe hook a suction port up and see what we got going on. All right, let's see what we got here. I'm going to say we're probably overcharged or we have some issues with the coil. Oh, it's nice. Somebody doesn't know what a damn refrigeration wrench is so they got under the cantalocs and screwed the valve up. This thing's flooding back so bad, but it's pretty obvious what's going on. We have about a 7 psi evaporator, 120 discharge, which is 70 degrees. So we're about 20 degrees over ambient, but yet we're running a negative 24 evaporator. We've either starving, plugged up coil with ice, restricted airflow. We're going to have to unload this thing. We got all the alcohol underneath there and get these covers out. And guess what? Surprise, surprise, surprise. We got us an evaporator here. It's all froze up. Wonder what happened here. Let's just keep on running it. Yes, sir. Now what sucks is, ain't nothing we can do because they got probably a condensate pump in there and it is completely froze up. And if I melt all that out, they're going to have water everywhere and it's just going to pump that water out of there right up somewhere, you know, to a pan that's going to overfill everywhere. See that? Or vacuum it out while we do it. So I'm not sure what we need to do next. I'm going to probably get my camera out. We'll inspect this other corner over here. All right. So we're going to try out this new camera here, which I've been using it and I've been pretty happy with it so far. This is a TrueTech Tools product they sell. As you can see, it's a pretty little guy. And I'm going to show you what's really cool about it. For starters, I don't have a 16 foot camera that takes, you know, you have to be on loop, de-duped. This one here doesn't hold memory like my other one did. So we take off the little protector there on the end and here's what's really cool about it. Watch this rotate it and actually bend all the way back around and you can actually look around and see what's going on. So that makes it very easy. And the display is really big. I guess if I was thinking a little closer, I would have realized that this piece of metal here is right there where they're going to hit it at. But if we go right here on the side, we should be able to see if there's any ice there. So let's take a look at that. Kind of go left and right to see where we're at. There's the coil. See the coil right there on the side right here where we're able to see. So you've got this red orange thing here in the middle. It tells you whether you're straight on or not. So I'm able to turn it and look back at myself. You can see my hand right there. Okay, from what I'm seeing, you can see the end loops just plain as day. So obviously we're not dealing with that and you're not hearing the funny noises that we're getting out of the other stuff. I'm going to see if we can find out whether or not this is what happened the last time somebody was out here or what, but definitely is an issue. We can actually turn the fan off and come down to the top. There we go. I got everything crammed in here. Okay, we're able to put that right down through there and you can see we can turn our camera and maneuver to see exactly what's going on. You can see that the fan is right there. You can see the coil. Don't look too bad. I mean it's got dirt on it, but you can also see the temperature. There's 92 degrees. This does video recording and still photography also does Wi-Fi and you can send it by Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. I believe it's both of them or one or the other either way. You can get it to your phone to send it out to somebody, but you can see firsthand that that coil looks fine. This is the only one I've seen with that articulating head. Yeah, I've got my other one can go side shot, but the problem is that long wire is a pain in the hind end. Now this is a little more expensive than the one I was using. I'll give the link for this down there. True Tech Tools. I want to save 8% on it, use survival, check out and check it out. So anyhow, let's go ahead and get back to this. So that was just one example how I can use some of the tools to make my job a little easier versus tearing the whole thing out. One of the guys told me that there was a manual for some of the other cases back there somewhere else and I found it. So now I can figure out how this works. At first I was like, oh, look at that. There's no buttons. Well, guess what? That flips up and here is your display to tell you what you're doing. So we're gonna go through here and check some of our temperatures. See if that sensor's bad. It appears this does not have a heated off defrost cycle. So it's probably just timed off only. Let's go ahead and hit manual defrost or tap it once and don't do anything. So let's hold it. There we go. Compressor shut off and the compressor is still running and we're in defrost. So our problem might be that our contactor is sticking. I heard it click which ain't good. So let's go ahead and grab the meter and see if we got power to the coil on the contactor. We may have just found our problem. That or the control modules jump on the other, neither of which would really surprise me. Any power on the contactor. Check that out. See both. You can see the display there. You can see the contactor. So we're going down here to the coil. Going to that one and going to that one. No voltage. Make sure our meter works. Let's go to one of the power legs to ground and see if we got power yet. There's 118. So if we go here to this contactor and pull that off like that and it's still running, that means your contactor's bad. Look at that. It shuts off. So I would say our problem here is the contactor's burnt and that is what's causing it to freeze up because it never shuts off. And that compressor is more powerful obviously than the heaters. Let's go down here and check amp draw and make sure these heaters are working. So I am not picking up any amp draw on that. Nothing on that. Let's go to the main power legs here. Not getting nothing there. So not only do we have a bad contactor, we have a potentially bad heated coils. That's if it has elements I don't know yet. I mean it sure looks like it's got it. Let's go over here and look at the schematic here. So here's the run capacitor relay, high pressure switch, compressor overloads, you can insert fans. Don't see anything. Ballast. It's all these things. Ballast, ballast, ballast, condensate evaporator fan, fan, condensate evaporator fan. So yeah, this does have like a heated pan back here. You can see that dirty nasty looking thing. So that's how it does that. So I don't see anything in here showing me any heated elements. So I bet you that must be ballasts. It's probably lighting the circuits of some sort. We could probably grab the vacuum cleaner and sweep it out as it's melting and then keep dumping it into a bucket until we finally get it all melted. We could do this probably with a pump sprayer of some sort. Yeah, it looks a little burnt. Yeah, it's a little burnt. So if you wanted to, you could have divided the power between the two legs and give yourself total probably 40 amps of capacity or 50. I'm sure it's rated for 30 amps of 60 amps capacity, but in reality it should, you know, it should last longer possibly. Which if we got a dual contactor, it's probably what I'll do is I'll just divide it between the two of them. We'll split top and bottom together. Give you a little extra capacity. Also, if I would have been standing up, I would have seen that the fan is still running. So you're not usually going to run the fan while the heater elements are on. And that definitely be an issue. So I have seen it on some of these older cases, but generally you don't do that. Okay, we're going to go ahead and turn power off to this. We're going to double check, make sure both legs broke like it should. So we're going to go down here to the bottom, check the ground, between the two of them, nothing. So we're good. So now we're going to get this contactor change, which ain't rocket science. Get our coils back on there. I was going to do a underneath there, but they didn't put the nice flat pieces under there. So we're going to have to go ahead and use spade terminals or just to make it simple, go ahead and use the same push-on terminals. I don't usually like these for high air amperage things, but since we're only talking probably nine amps or 10 amps, it's not going to be that big of a deal. But you know, it's funny even on electric furnaces, they still use those type of connectors a lot of times and don't use the eyelets. This top piece to this top and this bottom to the bottom. That way it'll both open up together. Everything will be just fantastic. Just going an extra mile, you know? It's little things like this that make a difference. Is it necessary? No, but it might prevent a problem a little bit longer than if we didn't do it. And since we got it like that, why not? All right guys, so we've got that connected here. I'm going to go ahead and hook this up for just a second to make sure that it kicks on and kicks off, telling me whether the controller's working. So we'll kick it on. So there comes on the lights. The compressor should kick on here in a second. If it does, I'll put it into defrost, make sure it disconnects. And then I'm going to go run another call and come back and we'll melt this ice. So while I'm gone, I'm going to pull this off the coil so that it continues to run the fan and melts the coil or melts the ice off of it while I'm gone. So I don't, you know, we've got something more important I got to go do. Okay, we're waiting on that. Let's go and get this back together. That way I don't forget about it later. So I always like putting everything back together that way. Just like I said, you don't forget it because it's easy to do. You get busy on something else. We had two of these booklets at the other and this should kick on here in a second I think. Now I will probably need to turn the alarm off on this case for this particular sensor because it's probably going to go into alarm. All right, it's back into running. Let's put it into defrost. Boom, shut off like it should. Let's go ahead and disconnect that. We'll tape that off. That way it doesn't shorten anything and then like I said, we'll take off. Okay, here's the map of the store. Here's that eight foot cold beer, two dash seven. See it's blue. Might be rack A but the thing is it's not on the rack but that's where they put it at I guess. Usually that'd be. So let's see if we find that. All right, there's circuits, no beer there. Circuits, eight foot beer, SC. So let's go down here. They only have one temperature sensor. I swear they had two temperature sensors. They're SC eight foot beer. Yep, SC. So it must be average. You would think if it was averaging they wouldn't have, they'd have to have two of them. So let's go. Yeah, I see it's already up to 40. Let's go down here to setup. Let's go to log in. Now we're logged in. Undefined, case type, self-contained. So now you know SC self-contained. Set points 32 which is jack. It runs on its own thing. Alarms, case high alarm 50 degrees. So yeah, it's not even gonna go off most likely anyway. That's nice but it's beer but still nice to have an actual indication of what's going on. Let's go ahead and let it go. I think we're gonna be fine. I'm not gonna screw with it. So I came back to the store and the coil had completely defrosted itself. It took a couple hours. I went up there to help another guy fix the leak on one of the racks. We got that fixed. Here's a couple pictures of that. Basically it was in a real bad spot. You can see the damage here on this fitting right here. We ended up having to cut this piece out and bolt it, cut it out, chop out the bad section, unswet the one pipe, put it back in and get one side of the coupling done and then put it back in and then had to sweat around it on the one coupling down there in that corner. So when I got back everything was already thawed out. It was running fine. Well you know the system was starting to freeze up just because the compressor was never shutting off and it wasn't going to defrost. The noise was liquid refrigerant going back into the compressor which was that drip noise you heard in the beginning. Right now all we're doing is a bunch of maintenance so there's not a whole lot to record. So here's what you got. So thanks for watching guys. Appreciate it. Till next time, later.