 Hello and welcome back to another episode of First Impression Friday without the release of a Big Four Spring pattern this week. We are going back to Indie Patterns where we are going to be taking a look at Atelier Scummit and I hope I'm pronouncing that right. I did go to the about section and looked how to phonetically say it and I hope I'm doing it right. But they are based in France and the designer, Johanna, has a ton of experience working in luxury brands but also going to school and getting degrees in all the things that you would need to make a beautiful Indie pattern company outside of just pattern designs. Also like graphic design and all of those things that are going to make the pattern instructions really, really awesome. In the quality chart, she talks about the fact that her patterns are graded professionally. So designing patterns and grading patterns are two different things and she recognizes that. They're also tested on multiple sizes, seam allowances included. There's a lot of really great information in here but in the so better category, it mostly talks about this. Well cut models in current styles with refined details, complete step-by-step videos for every single pattern, professional finishing without a serger. So she'll talk you through, you know, like ready to wear finishing details. The pieces fit together perfectly which I thought this was interesting. I don't know if it means just that she makes sure that all of her seams are trued or if, I don't know, I wasn't quite, don't all of them fit together perfectly? Maybe not but I don't know. And then also she claims that her patterns are more affordable because you can make multiple versions with a single pattern. All right but she's also got a ton of patterns including home decor, kids and accessories which you can take a look at by yourself. Today we are going to look at all of her women's patterns and she has a bunch of them. So we are going to try and get through them quickly but also thoroughly. All right and I'm also, I know because this is a French pattern company, I am going to butch every single one of the pattern names and I am sorry to all my French viewers. I'll do the best I can. I think this is pronounced an A but it might not be and it's going to be fine right? Try not to overthink the pronunciation too much. All right blouse or dress with a V neckline finished with concealed binding and extended with a button placket seven eighth inch, seven eighth length sleeve finished with shaped cuff. Fairly straight blouse with or without sleeves that can be made into a dress with elastic waist. She has a level of intermediate pattern sizes four to 22 in the U.S. and we will look at what exactly that means in terms of finished garment measurements hopefully here in a second but here's where the seam allowances are included and she links to her quality chart full access or free access to step step videos by lingual English and French patterns interchangeable sleeves with all the patterns wearing a first name. Does that mean this being a first name means the sleeves are all interchangeable? That's really interesting that means that if you get this pattern and another pattern that has a first name in it you can swap out this sleeve for the other sleeve which you normally cannot do because arm size are different but if all of her arms size are the same very intriguing and then you can find more pictures at the hashtag an A pattern. Okay paper pattern and then your pdf pattern comes with instruction full size pattern to print a symbol one layer per size so you can isolate layers and two printing formats AO and then also your a4 and us letter. Okay so lots of information there that I think applies to multiple patterns so that's cool and then we've got the paper pattern if you want it to be shipped to you and then the pdf pattern is actually 850 nobody's supposed to review yet all right we'll look at all this stuff so this is what you will learn main techniques video you can find here secure sewing lines before assembly assembling a sleeve making french seams making a simplified button placket finishing a sleeve with a shaped cuff finishing a neckline with concealed binding making an open seam with folded overcast assembling a gathered like a baste I think that's a basting stitch so that's interesting that she calls out all the different lessons that you will learn from making this one pattern super cool so you can tell you know where you fall and which of these are going to be or how many of these are going to be really challenging for you. Okay so we've got our size chart finished garment 34 to 52 is the I guess the European sizes yeah and then in inches because maybe this is the English version of the website so everything's in inches the bust is 35 to 53 and the she doesn't provide the hip finished because it's like a fuller skirt I guess but the body measurements for the hip are 34 ish to 52 and a half ish so pretty decent in terms of you know a variety of sizes and then here's her fabric requirements very light to medium heavy and she even gives the ounces and then the fabric type so woven fabrics batiste crepe double gauze and light denim with 0 to 10 percent stretch and no elasting and then she tells what fabric she used navy double gauze and oh and links to it as well so you can buy the exact fabric and then in the instructions in the video she used this fabric love that and then she even gives her measurements in centimeters because I guess she's the model and then click here to learn how to wow okay so as you can see a ton of information before you ever even buy the pattern which I love I feel like we should be getting a lot more information about indie patterns before we buy them just to know is this going to fit in my skill set is this going to fit me is you know like am I going to be able to get the help that I need in order to execute making this pattern so I love this so much I was hoping we could easily get through these these photos but you can't and whenever you scroll over and zooms in automatically I sort of hate that when you do this it's pretty oh here we go here we go figured it out okay good all right so we have four options here we have a blouse and a dress sleeve sleeved or sleeveless the dresses have a gathered waist seam the tops have no waist seam and then the sleeves have this little banded hem here all of them are buttoned front all right still a little finicky to have to navigate through this but okay here we go so here is so cute the way it's styled with the stockings and the boots that's the dress version another photo of the dress version here's the navy one a little bit dark in the photos but you guys get the idea it's a little bit of a basic design I admit you know these are these kind of like button front v-neck dresses are a little bit of a dime a dozen this gives a really good picture of the sleeve where you can see there's a little notch there and I think also a pleat here I'm thinking that's intentional oh and then I really close up of the bodice so you can see you know that binding that finishes the front there's no doubt in my mind that when you make this yeah there is a really pretty pleat here I love that you will be executing finishing techniques that are unparalleled in in indy sewing even in big four they big four I think does the worst job of showing you how to finish you know and do proper construction they kind of are just like him this and you know finish that and they never really show you how but I think with her based on what I've seen you know never looking at never having looked at any instructions but based on what I've seen you're going to get some really really great tips on finishing that you can apply to any pattern so that's why I think that her patterns you know she says in the on the home page are good for beginners and advanced sewists alike because as a home sewist you know we don't learn all the techniques from every single pattern you know all right tons of photos for every pattern which is really nice all right back to the beginning okay so now that we have a good idea of just like the the quick and dirty of atelier scummet gosh I hope that's right um we'll be able to go through these a lot quicker so that was an a really cute dress why am I having a hard time navigating all right next up we've got the attitude I know how to pronounce attitude thank goodness so I'm assuming the attitude is not a first name so you can't swap out the sleeves on this one I think that that's exactly what that means but for example all of this information is the exact same as the last pattern except for the level and the pattern sizes but all of this is the exact same this is a 10 euro pattern um this one has one fewer size maybe maybe more fewer um finished waist and hip and inches are here so yeah hip well it's a jacket I'm not sure the hip matters too well maybe it does um 35 and a half to to 50 basically um here are all the fabric she used and then I wanted to see yep she has the weight of the fabrics again suggested fabrics again stretch again I love that she includes because you know even woven patterns you can have a little bit of stretch in them and sometimes it's nice to have that because it provides a lot of wearing ease so I just love that she gives you that option if you want to have a little bit of stretch in your denim for example um one to two percent max elastane spandex whatever it is you know I don't know I just feel like it helps people learn how to shop for fabrics for particular garments um okay what you will learn assemble the trial oh this is a pant pattern I thought it was the jacket this is a pant pattern so the hip absolutely matters and the waist 27 and a half to 41 in the waist yeah so I would and I'm like a I don't know 14 16 in the stores sometimes 16 18 and I'm at the max here so this isn't truly plus size because I'm not technically plus size and ready to wear um so maybe we'll get some patterns that have a little bit more inclusivity there but we're looking at the trousers here so I wish it would have said added to trousers a nay dress and top you know that would be just a little bit because I got some a skimmer because I could have read this and it would have said neatly cut elegant stylish and comfortable slim trousers a refined couture inspired trousers model with sleek finishes however with a stylish take on masculine wardrobe codes I love the like French interpretation to English so assemble the fly making Italian pockets with French seam finish making piped pockets with French seam to finish okay photos wise here we go so yeah the elastic in these pants would actually be really helpful to have beautiful crotch curve if I must say so myself you guys know I'm a bit of a stickler for that the French the front she has her hands in her pockets pants with your hands in the pockets why um I think this is why I mean granted her knee is up but it's hard hard hard to get these kinds of pockets to lay flat um this one looks okay though she is also leaning so let's see I'm so critical when it comes to these kinds of things so yeah you can tell these are just like your traditional like you know business casual type of trouser that you would find at j group and in a republic you know any of those kinds of places they're saying she has this little thing at the end of every um line drawing six variations are possible I'm guessing three backs and two fronts and three times two is six isn't that how that works so they wouldn't necessarily look like incredibly different from one another but I guess an option is an option right all right obviously they look really good on her she tends to I I think she has a little bit more of a straighter figure certainly more straight than me um gosh the hands in the pocket I get that you guys don't know what to do with your hands as you model but I need to see how these pockets are working um you know I just need like a straight on photo because even this one like you can tell she's been like shifting back and forth and this is twisted and this is bunchy so you do need a little bit of you know ease here so that you can bend your knee so it's not like this is poorly fitting um we are getting some bunching here but again hand in the pocket yeah it does look a little uh long here maybe the belt is pulling it down some or it doesn't fit in the waist right these are all the all the things I'm calling out right now are so specific to her and her body I I don't want you guys to think that just because I'm calling out that the rise is long in that one photo that that means it's going to be too tall for you um it everyone needs to make certain adjustments especially to pants um just calling out what I'm seeing as she's wearing them but some really really good things that I'm seeing are this crotch curve is excellent she does not have a mono butt or wedgie there's enough ease here for her to sit um it looks to have you know even though it's a straight leg I don't know much about her calf but um it looks to have enough ease there so all things to consider whenever you go to make any pants of your own all right so those are the attitude all right next up we have this solstice jacket this straight jacket is slightly dropped shoulders comes with three types of collars dog ear removable to be made a fake fur or a flat ribbed collar which I think is like a bomber jacket high high piped pockets may be positioned vertically low piped pockets may be positioned diagonally buttoned or zip closure I think she'll show two versions of that because she's really good at you know sewing up multiple versions but this is high because it's high up on her waist and I think that the lower ones will be at an angle and also sit closer to her high hip bones so intermediate four to 18 which is the same size as as the pants we just looked at and 10 euros all the things you'll learn in making this jacket collar with a collar stand making jetted pockets which I think are in English is welts pockets uh removable collar sewing and open and zipper also there's a zipper and buttons I love that and then lining so you're gonna line the entire jacket as well so woven with or without elastane wool jacquard and then she used a wool cotton denim blend here's her fake fur and then brown wool fabric from her own stock all right let's look at the photos so yeah foxy situation here is the bomber style jacket I see so you either have buttons or a zip but for those of you that watched whatever that video was where I was asking about button front bomber jackets here's a good option right I got a lot of options from you guys on DMs thank you so much for that um but here's another one this one supposedly has 12 options here is that little dart again in the sleeve I love that I love that that's included because that gives you a little bit of room in the elbow but it's not creating like this big wide sleeve which I think is a problem in indie patterns right this sleeves always tend to be so big on the bottom so these are the high vertical ones definitely a varsity vibe here here are our 12 options look at that okay so obviously you have your three collars you have high vertical pockets low angled pockets you have zippers and buttons I'm having a hard time telling oh collars did I say collars already what's the difference between these four oh besides the pockets like what's the difference between this and this the sleeve straight sleeve versus like a blousier sleeve oh this must be the ribbing well obviously I don't know it's I can't possibly discern I'm not good at that game where you're like what's what's the difference in these two pictures um but there is that version super cute little jacket I love it with the collar high pockets what's are there any pictures of the back yeah the fit looks really good you can see here how droopy or how dropped the shoulder is a little twirl all right let me get to oh here's the back yeah the back looks great so it's kind of at her high hip and then here's the brown version which is more like a bomber cute cute little jacket I'm a sucker for jackets though but I actually have a lot of jacketing fabric in my stash so I really need to find some jackets and start making up that fabric otherwise it's just gonna sit there all right so now we've got astree and that is a first name so you can swap out these short sleeves with the sleeves from the first dress it's kind of cool obviously it entices you to buy more of her patterns um and you know obviously the first dress you could just like shorten the sleeve and then you have a short sleeve maybe we'll get to some other versions where it's not so basic of an alteration just to do it yourself um but obviously do you have both of them and you don't want to go through the trouble you wouldn't have to all right blouse or dress with trapezium neckline which I think is that like you know oh shoot what is that shape called trapezoid oh yeah obviously trapezoid trapezium on the front and a v on the back finish with a pleated bias to prevent them from falling the shoulders are delicately held in place by a tie across the back I guess its airy style is conferred by the lovely ruffles I love ruffles I don't see ruffles on this one unless it's the bottom hem that's what she's talking about um to be declined with or without sleeves I think we're getting some translation issues here but we can make heads or tails of what she's trying to say so you can sew it with or without your sleeves intermediate we've got the extended size range on this one it goes up to 22 850 pounds I'm sorry euros um this is what you'll learn sleeve french seam cuffed short sleeve finishing a neckline or an armhole with concealed binding making an open seam with folded overcast assembling a gathered basting stitch and then here's your fabric requirements and then the fabric she used okay cute alright on on first peek here it's really cute right the neckline is really really nice unique we don't always see something like this and then here's the back yes where you have this deeper v and a little tie across the back I think that on these you can tie it once and then just slip it over your head because I don't know about you but like maybe it's because I'm getting you know a little bit older maybe because I've been sitting around a lot because of COVID but like I'm not as flexible as I used to be in tying this is hard um okay so here are the ruffles that she mentioned they are the tiers of the dress so again nothing revolutionary here in terms of design um you do have these little bust starts which we normally don't see on these kind of um dresses and then you've got the tiers with the gathers so you can make this cute little tank top t-shirt um and then two dress options and I'm assuming it's not lined so maybe there's a facing there there's your little cuff sleeve so cute and that's it actually not a lot of pictures on this one all right what's next we've got this cute little blouse petite oh petite that says chews is in English but I know that that can't be right chose oh what would it be in French I'm so bad bohemian style blouse or dress designed by the talented instagrammer fanny so this is fanny's instagram so it was named after her this versatile piece can be worn over 24 different styles from v shaped or keyhole shaped open neckline pretty v neck and back or full back including short or slightly puffy long sleeves to short or maxi-linked dress and many more fine and enjoy your own style smaller size range obviously they've called out the bust measurement specifically here nine dollars not with nine and a half euros is that how you say that here are all of your options oh I actually love this little scene okay let's get into this this little scene here is so cute because you have all the benefits of getting like a roughly thing here like a tier use some shape some interest but it's not across your midsection it's not across like your belly it's on this you know slimmer sides of your body so I actually really like that you've got your different sleeve options and then different lengths super cool you've got your keyhole v neck and then your back options are this triangle back or full back so cute look at it here oh I love this it's such a subtle thing that you would not normally notice which I think is like the beauty of it right look how cool it is there let's get a view where we can see you still can barely see it but I love that that shaping is there man this is really cute I like this one a lot right such a fun detail I even love the sleeve with the puff yeah this is really cute here's the back with the full ruffle actually it's not the full ruffle or maybe it is we'll look at we'll look back at that line drawing here in a second oh wait how about we do it right now yeah it is fully across cute cute cute so assembling a sleeve french seams clean finish for bnet collar keyhole simplified bias tape I don't know what that means but that's intriguing because I want to simplify that process as much as I can um supplies which I don't know what all that means width I guess um and yeah so you can read through all that that you would need to make it light to medium or very I'm sorry very light to medium weight fabric crepe light denim aka chambray double gauze and 10 max on your stretch that one's cute interesting I cannot remember seeing anything like that you know in the recent history all right this is called absolute half jacket half galay I don't know what a galay is this design will be the ideal mid-season friend combined with a chic fabric it will dress up the most basic of outfits in no time unlined this design incorporates a fully finished edge I think with bias tape two length options are available a large patch pocket two necklines and a part flat collar option composing a few pieces as quick and easy to sew smaller size range 10 euros sewing a part flat collar which I think is a collar without a collar stand I think um bias tape and assembling raglan sleeves and then here are your finished garment measurements 36 to 50 inches in the bust medium heavy to heavy weight fabrics including jacquard woolen fabric quilted cotton etc with a certain stiffness not too flowing right they don't want it to be too drapey and then here are her fabrics all right let's take a look at the photos here's the line drawings all right so are these actual pockets because that's really cool so you've got your raglan sleeve finished with bias tape you've got little pockets you know what this would be a perfect pattern for is a quilt coat here are other options this is the bias tape all around oh this is a flat collar so maybe more similar to like a bomber jacket would be and then this one has a more rounded neck and then I don't oh then you can do pockets or no pockets I don't see the is this I don't see the differences in the others okay oh shoot I meant to stay on the photos um here we go cute and she's absolutely right about it being a perfect transitional yeah they are pockets super cute here's the flat collar again I kind of really like that detail let's see more of that yeah you can't really see the collar love the raglan though it does have a some kind of seam up here on the sleeve or dart up there on the top of the shoulder which is nice for shaping yeah there's a good picture of the flat collar and since she used a jacquard on this the wrong side is also pretty you know because jacquard is like reversed it's like the negative of each other um so that's obviously a brilliant use of that fabric here's another one yeah super cute here it is from the front this is the different this is the one without the collar but the more rounded high neckline oh I love this so much it makes me want to go get another blanket from Goodwill another reversible fabric so cool and because all of these edges are sort of rounded you know the bias tape is not going to be that hard to install love super cute absolute okay next wait didn't we just do this this is Eugene which looks a lot like oh wait maybe she just oh so this is the exact same as that other pattern it just has a surplus bodice so we're not going to spend a lot of time on this one sharing a name with the talented renowned instagrammer Eugenie is the eponymous designer of this pretty model with delicate details fitted I'm sorry ruffled sleeves wrap neckline bust darts for a fitted bodice in contrast to the full skirt and easy to make as a blouse alone all right so here are your options so pretty much yeah the exact same it does have a little ruffle detail on the hem of the sleeve if you're into that but other than that it kind of looks the exact same as the dress from a couple versions ago right uh what one was I talking about this one it's a lot like this just a different neckline so don't need to spend a lot of time on that this is Lisa Ron Lisa Rome like macaron shirt with no bust art and rather loose its boyish style is highly compensated by lovely feminine details blounces at the bottom of the wristbands and possibly on the collar smaller size chart yeah it's your standard button down with options for like little ruffles on the sleeve of him can you see those little ruffles there here is that you can see them there does she have a picture of it completely untouched here's the back standard traditional button down what is this oh that's just it under a sweater okay not super helpful oh here's a close up of the sleeve love doesn't that look like a well finished sleeve with the sleeve placket and everything I'm not seeing any photos of it completely untucked which I would like to see so that I can see the front how long it is you know all that stuff this photo is of the construction of the inside look at that cute collar love yep so none of them are completely untucked so I don't know how long they are in the front but based on the um line drawings like a little bit shorter than they are in the back but you're going to be able to learn a lot of stuff french seams lining a yoke um all in one facing method aka burrito uh assembling a collar with a collar stand sleeve button cough with or without a flounce and making a cuff slit with placket like to medium weight fabrics all right so a good standard button down if you don't have one in your stash that one looks to be as good of one as good as one as good of one as any you know what I'm trying to say so this is france duval stela stela it is the eponymous designer of this elegant half jacket half coat number shawl collar kimono style armhole classic back option to add a button as well as patch pocket or piped pockets okay so this must come from another one of the um instagramers which I like that she's doing that assembling kimono sleeve in front assembled in back making a shawl collar lining a coat to give the garment a professional finish making a patch pocket making a piped pocket here are your finished I'm sorry your body measurements and then your fabrics woolen jacquard denim six to ten ounces so that's pretty hefty so this is a a coat you know but love the shawl collar this is giving me like remember whenever the grandpa cardigan was like a thing um this is giving me that vibe but in a coat which I mean it's got to be super simple to sew right like there's not a lot to it oh look at this the lines in the back so pretty so so so pretty yeah pretty tailored um not as oversized as I was imagining oh this is it in like more of a traditional like blazer fabric this is the piped pocket so pretty um or a double welt right and then here's the lining that looks really good really well sewn on her part yeah slim through the front it's got some volume I'm sorry some through the back some volume in the front here is the back sewn up super pretty yeah here's the wool one and it's a little bit wider in the shoulder this is nice this is nice not too fussy still really chic like I would buy this and probably reach for it all the time because it is so simple and clean lined I mean even the blazer version is really cool right like a lighter weight kind of version I mean I guess that could be some kind of wool but definitely getting like it looks like a blazer so getting some fun photos now and I mean you've got to be able to sew that up pretty easily if you've ever sewn a lining before you know you're halfway there I love that I do have a lot of those kinds of fabrics in my stash too because I thought I was gonna be making a lot of coats but then you know it's never cold enough here but this one could be perfect because it doesn't you don't really get all super bundled up in it you know what I mean it's kind of meant to be open nine and a half euros for that one we love it here is the Harman harmony harmony dress with pretty volumes and neatly defined waist blousing or not back in front of the shoulders yoke are adorned with gathers if she starts putting more gathers on more things I'm gonna be broke you know I cannot resist a gather while those on the skirt provide a feminine volume the button front dress can be made with either seven eighth sleeves or short butterfly sleeves finish with french seams and taped seams like bias tape it can also be made as a blouse and a long dress okay nine and a half euros assembling a sleeve french seams sewing pockets on a skirt securing sewing lines before assembly which I think is stay stitching maybe finishing a seam with bias finding she's calling this advanced but none of that really seems advanced to me here are finished garment measurements very lightweight fabrics zero to you know eight percent stretch max all right let's take a look what we've got sweet kind of hard to tell what's happening I think there's got like a forward yoke with gathers these are the butterfly sleeves v-neck button front but it's a separates or these all sewn together they're all sewn together so you've got an actual waistband I have not seen a dress with an actual waistband like this in so long side seam pockets gathers into a little sleeve cuff both the front and the back have gathers and I'm pretty sure when she said ruffles she meant gathers yes so here are your 10 options different sleeves and different lengths I think are the options here here is the long dress version sitting a little low on her there she is in the top again that looks to be sitting right so I don't know maybe that other one was let's see if we can get more photos look how pretty this is a great photo these are the kind of photos that really really help us right like I get you want to be cute and twirly and all that but give us like one or two like really just simple simple photos so that we can see it so that was the oh this is the longer one oh I guess because it's like a little bit more blousey so maybe it fell down because it does say blouse or not so I think there might be a couple of options in terms of how long the bodice is okay next is another little tiered top this one's Amy simple blouse with a round neckline with plated bias short sleeves slightly rounded and gathered above the sleeve bracelet which might also mean him yeah slightly rounded through here I think is what she means and then gathered right here above the like kind of cuff offers a version with a ruffle all with or without a sleeve and again ruffle means gather interchangeable sleeves oh and patterns whose names end in ee so it's a little complicated to determine which sleeves can be interchanged but but I appreciate that she went to that length to make it possible at all so here are line drawings it's pretty you know basic and straightforward here eight and a half euros for this which I mean considering you can get like other things from her site for not that much more I'm kind of surprised is this woven I think it is which is nice french seams yeah so it's got to be woven finishing neckline with concealed binding I mean it is a very simple design again though I think you're gonna really just have it it's gonna look like the most bomb woven shirt you've ever made you know what I mean the finishing details are going to be unparalleled so so something to be said for that even though it is a little bit basic next we have zoey or zo and again it's the v-neck button front with a sleeve with a ruffle and you can make it into a dress a sleeveless top or a well sleeved or sleeveless dress or top okay we've got to start getting through these or else this is going to be like the longest video ever which I'm sure you guys wouldn't mind but I gotta try and like meet in the middle a little bit all right here we go allure allure is I think a white leg trouser impeccably fitting mid-rise straight leg trouser Italian pockets give a sophisticated touch of elegance wow front patch pockets create an undeniably hippy style on the back there's the option for patch pockets or not the bottoms of the trouser finish with a wide hem held in place by an invisible stitch or top stitch eight possibilities I think that the little slant pocket is aka Italian pockets and then the back is with or without patch pockets the front is with or without patch pockets thank you pants photo without hands in the pockets okay so you can tell they are really close fitting through the hip through well yeah through the hip kind of even through the thigh and then they just go straight down from her low hip here is a beautiful view of like the side back ish here is the back if I could get a pant to fit my tush this good I would quit sewing no just kidding I would only make that pant for till the end of time here they are in some kind of like velour or velvet corduroy or something with a little patch pocket a little bit more casual this fabric might have some stretch in it which is why it looks to be a little bit um looser fitting there they are in the back oh here's a little striped version yeah so mid-rise isn't my favorite but that's easy enough to alter this one seems to have like a you know full-on um fly zipper um light to medium weight fabric zero to ten percent stretch um one percent max on your elastic so simple classic mid-rise straight leg trouser next we have tempo tempo might be a shacket military military jacket with much style designed with every detail taken care of this model features a dog ear collar to replace the classical collar stand slightly drop shoulders fitted tailored sleeves and different types of pockets allowing multiple options well let's see so you've got a front yoke um she's not showing the back here so I'm assuming the back is just flat different um pocket options you've got your patch pocket you've got your pleated pocket no pocket pleated pockets here no pockets here welt pockets here um collars look to all be the same you have this little oh shoot is it called an epaulet um yeah definite shacket vibes which is a combo shirt jacket cute right I love it with the little sleeve rolled up yeah I'm getting yeah this whole beachy vibe on it for sure look how cool this pocket is this is what I thought was the welt pocket but it's not this is definitely sewn from the button placket through to the side seam right am I missing that there's your collar so it kind of like instead of having a collar stand it kind of just rolls over on itself much easier to sew than regular collars maybe not this doesn't look like any of these options though but it is cute buttons buttons oh here's the inside thanks for showing unlined here are some other fabrics so yeah more of like a twill type fabric here definitely leaning into the military that one looks you know kind of professional looking does it come with a belt yeah so no belts were illustrated here either but you've got a little belt with belt carriers cute um wow look at all this that you are gonna learn so much stuff finished garment measurements are the same I think not finished body measurements are about the same as we've seen four to eight ounce fabric poplin denim gabardine or even like lightweight jacketing and stuff like that and then she used a green cotton twill cotton gabardine and then denim love you know I think every designer kind of like oh look how cute this is kind of like has their thing her thing might be jackets like I get that she also makes and sells dresses and that's nice and everything the dresses designs seem to be a little bit kind of like we've seen that before a little bit but those jackets both of them are really stand out to me this cute little skirt is as well I'm obsessed with this it's such a little thing like you could add that to really any pattern you've got but like I don't know seeing it all done like this just makes me so happy um so this is called novembre straight skirt fully lined short and feminine the cut for the back is adapted for the front to incorporate pockets okay with the optional finish of a small flounce so our english ruffles are french flounces french ruffles are our english gathers are we keeping up with the translations this one has actually even a smaller size range which is no good for my bum um I'll check those here in a second but I think what she's saying about the back coming into the front pocket is that all of this is one piece yeah like there's no side seam like this line here is not really a line like it wraps around which I think is really cool show me the side oh here's the back which I think is important yeah a little bit funky here this happens when it's too long through the back here um so that just needed to be like pinched out oh of course it's black and I can't really see but yeah probably there is a side seam there well heck I don't know what she's trying to say with that then because even this looks like there's a zipper in the side so that's not happening I don't know I don't know what that means cut for the back is adapted for the front to incorporate pockets I don't know what that means sewing pockets on a skirt lining a skirt without any visible seam recommended fabrics oh are we not going to get a size chart oh we don't even get a size chart on this one all right well that's a no for me like there's no chance I'm gonna buy that without seeing the size chart especially seeing that it's one size smaller than all of the other patterns like there's no way that's gonna fit me I was already at the high end all right this is Elise Eliza chic tank top with scoop neckline bottom Ampley flared for a very fluid effect can be embellished with a flounce at neckline and or in back intermediate which I don't know well I don't know where she's getting these I guess she's airing on the set of caution here um nine euros it is a really cute simple again but you know you start adding ruffles to things and I just can't help myself yeah so I like the trapeze you know the kind of a line design of it obviously you can extend that and make it into a dress and then you've got the ruffled collar the ruffled back yoke or simple and plain without any of that so some things I'm noticing is that it does seem to be a little bit fitted through here and then this is where the a line begins kind of like maybe at her high bust so that when you're looking at it from the side it's all really tailored through from here up right like it looks like it fits really well all through here and then at the bust is where you start to get all of your volume the volume does seem to sit front to back rather than side to side which is kind of weird when you're looking at it from the side but when you look at it from the front it looks very slimming or the back here's the back so doesn't it look really slimming like it doesn't look like it's as big as it really is here are some close-up shots of bias tape beautiful ruffle neckline gorge yeah she's cute nine euros though why is some things that seem so simple nine euros and the more complicated things are like 10 hmm um here's all the things you learn here's your sizes fabrics batiste crepe lightweight denim I probably have a million and five fabrics in my stash that would work well for that just really cute really cute really kind of sweet but clean and simple oh we've got a hoodie this is called icon no icon I oh man ikanee ikan I hope you guys aren't cringing too bad simple sweatshirt with cardigan or cardigan with smart detailing slightly curved raglan sleeves which soften the shoulder I'll show you what she means in a second ample hood with lovely interior touches sweatshirt option can be made with or without the hood and carding can be zipped or buttoned to be sewn either with an overlocker or a lockstick machine and a twin needle this is our first knit pattern beginner um okay 10 euros all right and this is what she means this same here see how it is curved like it's like a little baby arc instead of it being like boop straight like this that provides a really really flattering shoulder line rather it making your shoulders look wider or linebackery if you feel that way when you wear raglan try a curved one all right for what it's worth that also looks really good on a man um to kind of softens their shoulders a little bit it makes them look I don't know it makes the line look less like like big and bulky um Dan has a sweater that he got from banana republic maybe and of course I notice the curve he has no idea he's just like oh wow this looks really good and I'm like yeah it's because of that curved raglan sleeve and he just rolls his eyes he's like okay whatever you say um but it's true and every time he wears it I notice how nice his shoulders look so um anyway so you have options for a hood you can just do a banded collar or you can do your cardigan um that has this sort of like flat collar buttons or zips kangaroo pocket or without and then you've even got this little itty bitty ruffle here if you want so here's the back that's a great little fabric oh look at the hood it has like a little center panel love that here it is from the side view really nice no like bunching it's all sitting really nicely on her it's a sweatshirt but I mean it looks like a million bucks and I think that's the whole point so give us some more views of the hood yes yeah so you can see here how you know how sometimes hoods only have that center seam first of all it's really difficult to sew secondly it creates like a mohawk effect not cute this is an adorable hood and it matches up with the raglan sleeve so it's just gonna create like just really beautiful lines here's another view of it right like it doesn't make her head look enormous and all of this lines up maybe that's what she means about like seams matching up and stuff from the homepage that's a really cute slimming sweatshirt let's see it and then another version so this is just your little sweatshirt sweater with the banded collar very basic but really cute slouchy cute here's the what she's calling the cardigan version which is really just like a zip-up version you've got this adorable sleeve and the little cuff peaks out below like that's that's not her shirt that's the band of the jacket so it's the same fabric in all three places and then this little so cute um oh here we go cute right it looks like a shirt peeking out but it's not a shirt it's part of the jacket oh here's another version oh okay I see with the striped trim which you can pretty much find readily available nowadays online I thank you for talking in your hair I know that seems so silly but it really does help me see what's going on here so this is like another version of a button front bomber this one just doesn't have the bottom hem so it was like the universe heard me asking for that in addition to all the wonderful dm's I got from you guys there's some really great options here too that's a really cute sweatshirt really cute hoodie not too bulky not too boxy um really really adorable all right now we've got bohem bohem la bohem I'm trying to think of the um rent the song from rent la bohem right um an elegant simple blouse box plate in the back and flounce at neckline and cuffs longer in back then front this is a beginner I'm really not understanding the the levels um 9 euros french seams assembling a sleeve finishing a cuff with a ruffle finishing a neckline with the flounce okay and then no size chart on this one so all right here it is from the side not really all that helpful here's the line drawing okay oh yeah so it is pretty straightforward you've got your I think these are called are they still french darts when they when it comes in from the arm side what's that called I know these ones are called french darts what's this one called and then look how pretty this is it's a like a really deep plate that opens up to allow room in the waist and hip and then you've got your forward shoulder again and then this little collar this ruffle detail I guess is a better way to say it so your options are yeah just whether or not where you place the ruffle and if you place the ruffle anywhere yeah it's not laying super flat through here which means it's a little bit long for this piece but maybe it got stretched out the ideally this would all lay completely flat against the body here is another version that one's laying a little bit better in this gauzy fabric oh here it is untucked I love to see it untucked because you just never know and this one has this cute little shaped hemline I might have missed that beautiful sleeve you can tell kind of curves with her elbow so nice and then again that that dart that's in the back here creating a beautiful tailored like shoulder line and then it all kind of extends out from here so pretty right love that and then we've got oh go back go back we've got a plaid version yeah that collar looks really good and then she added a little ruffle to the sleeve here too kind of long in the shoulder a little bit but wide lousy adorable adorable okay next we have all right next up oh we're getting into some skirts oh my god look at that okay okay focus focus I'm like squirrel jumpsuit ruffles I can't help myself all right so this one is called our our oh our page midi long or short skirt with hot couture details button closure in back button loop fastening long tie belt or fitted button waistband it features low profile side pockets sitting forward of the sleeve of the seam these give a laid back flare to this chic model okay um here is the line drawing oh are they like slit pockets 12 possibilities oh my word look at this wow okay yeah obviously different lengths um and I am really not understanding how those pockets are sewn that's kind of interesting and then I know that there are options with this waistband either a fitted one or this one is just it's not a wrap um it just has this really long tie attached which I guess makes it a little bit adjustable and then center back zippers maybe here is this version that's the fitted one that's really pretty I do not understand how these pockets are sewn I've never seen anything like that here's another one how do they do that and then I think this is the this whole thing here is the hem I love a deep pimp and then you can see the back here gosh that fits her really well in the back especially here's a back view right sitting right nicely up against the lower part of her back which is kind of really hard to fit this is blowing my mind I just don't even understand I guess it's kind of like a welt but not here's the tie version now is she going to show us nope I was hoping we would get to see the tie version untied just to sort of understand the difference but this one has all these buttons which is kind of Victorian kind of weddingy kind of a lot of trouble to get in and out of um but I guess the tie one there's no elastic so or is there elastic no no elastic so I guess if you made the version with the tie you could put elastic in the waistband and then make it kind of like adjustable that could be nice those pockets though are just the most intriguing thing I would buy this just to learn about those um and then there's your fabric options I mean simple but not and I don't know I'm really getting into skirts I don't know what's happening I'm just I'm really digging the skirt oh here we go now we have an elastic waist skirt so this is Bonjour I know how to say that this skirt is fully made with French seams for a clean finished look its elastic waist offers a maximum comfort while being extremely easy to make no gathers are required except from the elastic to avoid a poppy effect duh that's so brilliant the very comfortable pockets directly sewn in the side seams provide a beautiful relaxed look to this very girly skirt I love the hemline on it but it is just an elastic waist skirt and it's nine and a half euros like I don't get that oops let me maximize yeah it's an elastic waist I think this is like a circle skirt sewn into an elastic hem which is a very interesting idea for sure and then you've got yeah so she's right it doesn't provide a ton of bulk especially through here where you know a lot of those ruffles would cause a lot of bulk or a lot of volume added that doesn't belong to your body so why should it be there this is more like a lineny version you could crank these out of so many fabrics yeah that one might be like a little bit of a lighter weight one yeah so you can see here how it is sort of a circle skirt combined with an elastic waist which is just brilliant I don't know why that's nine and a half euros though I wish some of these were like in the six euro range I'd be buying them up like crazy because she does have some really good ideas that obviously are like well thought out for a woman's body but for me it's value and there's not a lot of value I could probably I honestly I could probably figure that one out myself maybe not everybody could do that but all right jolly momay this jumpsuit has the fun spirit of its designer the talented helene french blogger of oh man helene etle jolly momay elasticated at the back to accentuate the feminine curves it can also be pulled in at the front two sets of three pleats demarc the top of the trousers and follow down to the start of each extra wide leg yeah okay the jumpsuit features an invisible zip can be made with or without sleeves with short sleeves or with a flat or gathered sleeve cap okay okay so anything new and interesting here no okay so this is what they mean well we'll get to the line drawings here a second let's go there super cute though right that's the sleeveless version in some kind of chambray okay so you've got your v-neck center front seam this is the kind of you know plain sleeve cap short sleeves these are the pleats that she's talking about are sewn down and then the pleat opens up and is carried into what it creates the width of your leg it's a really complicated way to say something that you've probably seen a dozen times but it does create for a beautiful leg line so here's your little ruffle sleeve ruffle sleeve with a gather sleeveless or sleeved so can you see how these pleats just kind of like fold open and that's what creates the wide leg it's not like the leg is drafted out like this these are what creates the volume which again you've seen a thousand times this is actually center front zipper not just a center front seam so you zip up through the front which makes it a little bit easier to get in and out of which is important because obviously to go the bathroom you have to take this off which some of you have a real problem with i don't mind it maybe that's just me i don't know i don't mind it at all like even in public i'm like what ups i don't know maybe because like i wear like bralette so it just feels like i have like a crop top on i don't know but beautiful sleeve you can see the little baby hem here you can see the zipper detail here too sort of a mid-range shot again i have so many lightweight drapey fabrics i need to find something to do with them and i think i've been a little bit hesitant to make dresses lately because i don't know i'm like feeling like that's not me anymore but it is or it isn't i don't know so this is would be a good compromise it'd be like both i love a jumpsuit and from what i've seen all of her have we had a back view of this yet all of her um wait is this the back that's the front um all of her pants seem to be really well drafted through the bum here is a back view so you can see there's not a lot of extra fabric you know it actually looks quite slim because you don't have the pleats in the back in the back you only have like a little bit of gathers um so it's actually a slimmer leg in the back than it is in the front which for those of us that are wider back here we don't necessarily want all that extra fabric you know so cute i love it with a sneaker yeah gosh i there's already like five that i would literally put in my cart and buy right now oh here's another back view see how it's just kind of pulled into this drawstring but that looks great right oh i want them all but i don't have the time to make all these so i really need to like think about it some so here's all the things that you'll learn again french seams create a runner i don't know what that is oh is that like a tie all right no fabric or no garment measurements on this one or body measurements for that matter um but i think it's roomy enough and it's in her regular size range so i think that i could definitely make this work because it's just so you know loose fitting all right now we have this cutie little top this one feels fun this one reminds me of um oh solar remember that solar pattern like the one random one that was on our etsy shop it wasn't on her website this one reminds me of that bohemian blouse with this is called vira volte uh bohemian blouse with a slight retro twist it gets its flair from a b shaped cut in front and back choose the blouse or dress version with long sleeves with a ruffle short sleeves with or without a hem with or without a hem and optional sleeve caps a perfect choice for a first time sewer and lots of fun so here you go first time sewers one of the few beginner patterns that she actually like claims is beginner this looks just as easy or complicated as the little tank top with the ruffle and that was intermediate so i don't know um here are our line drawings let's just go straight to this one so oh i see you can oh the girls like the ruffles too so you got a little ruffle addition to your sleeve this is all sewn into a ruffle interesting to me that this is beginner because this is kind of challenging to sew it into a little peak like this i mean not like you know rocket science or anything but you definitely have to like slow down and take your time especially if your brand is sewing um or you have this little band ruffle on the hem here and then dress and shirt version here's how long it is you can idea of the volume too it is really cute it is really cute dang it i just like the shape of it so much i love an empire waist um you know i like shirts with lots of volume to wear with tighter pants like this i love that this goes down like the ruffle you gotta imagine under her arm goes down into a peak and then back up again yeah that's just really cute there's the sleeve it doesn't even a little bit short right here it is with the little ruffle detail which i know when you were looking at that line drawing you were thinking it looked a little bit like wings i guess but this looks kind of cute i love it in this like eyelet too right isn't that just like sweet casual cute fun basic with the twist that's me and then here are dress versions oh goodness so 16 dress versions and then oh no that's eight okay so eight tops and eight dresses oh well i like this as a dress i would make a good jillion of these too i might be in trouble you guys but if i'm thinking about it like this is what's gonna help me sew my stash if each one of them is around ten dollars and i like like five of them so far that's only fifty dollars in patterns that's not that bad considering i wouldn't have to pay for fabric right and i can make multiple versions i'm just talking myself into this i'm doing the sewing math i'm doing the sewing girl math where you just justify it at all costs oh gosh she just has some really cute designs what can i say it's just like you know when you find somebody that's like that gets you i think i think she gets me oh god look at that was this the skirt okay i thought it was the jacket and i was about to really it's just a jean jacket i don't know i was i'm just like in the zone so this is charme charm i don't know this rather short skirt is composed of two layered elements assembled on a wide v-shaped waistband on the back and front for a minimalist version you will use the underneath skirt which is flared simple and asymmetrical or i'm sorry simple and symmetrical for a more romantic garment at the top skirt which is gathered and asymmetrical okay the skirt is closed on the left side with an invisible zipper and a fastener so this one sounds interesting it has like she said this layer here flat hem and this one is an asymmetrical hem both of them are sewn into this little v so it's kind of like flat like a yoke and then the skirts sewn in yeah it's kind of like a dropped peplum which isn't totally my vibe i think it's cuter in the drapeier fabric for sure and i kind of want to see it in like two different fabrics where the bottom layer is one and the top layer is like sheer or something i think that could be cute um here's the back yeah lightweight drapey fabrics i can see it a hundred percent here's your zipper which also opens into a pocket i think which is also a nice detail not hard to um execute either just by what you might think let's see here's the orange lightweight version right just drapeier so it fits closer to the body less like peplumy but this is also a really good study in fabric drape and how that affects the look of a garment because when you look at this one versus this one you can really see how drape impacts how this looks oh look she put it on with her hoodie so yeah she's cute she's not a must-have she's sweet i don't know that i'm gonna remember her later french seams invisible zipper and making gathers and then no side charts okay oh and then she moved her fabrics up here so maybe the charts up here somewhere i'm just missing it not seeing it yeah not seeing it so i wish that we had that finished garment on all of them because i guess the further back we get the less i'm seeing of that i can't even tell you the last time i saw it girl loves a ruffle and i love a ruffle that we are so simpatico like oh okay this is called passion blouse with victorian style high neck two finishing options are possible either with smocked collar and cuffs or with a collar stand with flounces short or long sleeves with the same finish as on the collar slightly fitted blouse with no bust starts for a contemporary look the patch pockets on the chest provide a lovely contrast to that classical style blouse okay let's look at these line drawings the smocked collar is interesting to me oh i thought it was button front it's not okay the line drawings make it look a little bit all the focus is on the boobs um so let's look at the made-up versions yeah no no not my fave it's no wonder we're getting a lot of side views a lot of back views here's one on the front yeah no no to the patch pockets across the boobs but maybe without those at all but then it's kind of plain okay honestly like i'm glad i'm starting to not like these because i like i'd mention was not going to have any money left so um so yeah it's not that the fit is bad just like all of the other patterns we've seen before the fit fabrication all of that is really really good i just think the design is a little bit the patch pockets are weird if i'm looking at this version that doesn't have the patch pockets it has this little collar here i guess it's like a little bit unique but i can't tell if it's like just weird unique or if like it's cool and unique not a lot of people like this up high on their neck anyways yeah i'm i'm not sold on it it's like i can't put my finger on it it's like not special enough i guess but does they don't all have to be special so then it would just be basic but then it's also not basic either so it's like in this weird like gray area of like i don't know okay so again that's that no size chart or anything lightweight woebins was the fabric on it oh all right this is the last page we've got a lot of a lot of patterns on this one page so this is in vol voluminous feminine blouse fully lined garment with with flared silhouette at the front and straight back the sleeves slightly gathered are finished with a little cuff not really a little band more like it um french seam finish she's calling this one advanced i'm a little bit like befuddled on the fully lined situation here i don't think you need to fully line a shirt it's kind of giving me like bowler shirt vibes i don't know cute little band gathers here flat banded neck line back yoke with gathers um itch to stitch has a pat is itch to stitch somebody has one i've made it before wouldn't fit me now but um definitely have seen this before let's see if she shows us the inside because that is odd unless you just wanted it to be like super warm okay no we're getting no pictures of the inside so if you just have a really like thick double layer lined shirt so this view makes it look less a line than the line drawing does maybe because a lot of that is sitting toward the front and back the line drawings on this one are really cute but i think that the execution of it i'm not feeling as much is this curved yeah it is a little bit see here it's a little bit angled that's a nice detail i'm trying to think if i didn't know that this was a fully lined garment there's no way that's gotta be that's gotta be a misprint this is not fully lined semi-lined maybe this part i like it a lot in a drapery fabric i think the lighter weight fabric looks better and then this is does she have the ruffle on this one is there a ruffle on this one no but i'm sure you could add it yeah and then the collar with the button yeah it's definitely cute but not something that i haven't seen right like we've got a lot of these lightweight drapey blouses in our arsenal of indy patterns so i think maybe all of her patterns are finished with french seams um button placket interfacing and collar assembling a sleeve cuffed short sleeve and then lining a yoke so it's just the yoke it's not the full thing i was gonna say that's just kind of blowing my mind um fabric requirements blah blah blah blah blah okay all right that is in vol now we have stockholm timeless blouse or dress with raglan sleeves version a is three length sleeves with a bask at their bottom which i think i don't know what that means uh version b long sleeves with the bask at the bottom of the bodice let's see if we can determine what a oh like a blouse or peplum yeah i don't know but the line drawing is kind of cute let's see what it looks like on her oh i see yeah not great for pairs it's like a dropped peplum which i guess you don't have to sew the peplum on there's a version without it oh this fabric gave her a time um regular bodice starts the raglan sleeve here's the sleeve the sleeve has like little plates in it that's really cute again not super hard to just kind of add to whatever shirt pattern you've already got even if it was the other pattern of hers that had the raglan sleeve this is concerning this is happening on the yellow one and i was giving it a pass because of the fabric but this is too small through here the first time i've seen any of her tester photos where or her sample photos where something was off in the fit um does it happen in this white one yeah yeah something odd is happening underneath the arm with this raglan i do like it in the eyelet though that's really cute too also very very wide neckline right doesn't that look like it's falling off this shoulder gaping here yeah first one that i've seen where i'm like um especially too because look at this neckline it's nothing like that white neckline so box pleats bias tape yeah that um i imagine what happened is that eyelet because it is you know it's got the holes in it kind of it's just stretched out um which can happen okay so now we're at idle idel the neck long sleeve blouse with pin tucked shoulders which create a delicately rounded effect that's so chic button back which i think was like it button backs definitely had their moments in indy pattern design world and everybody was buying them up um now i think maybe not so much but here's a little pleated sleeve that is really cute but other than that this is just a pretty straightforward bodice yeah other than the cute sleeve this is just like any other top you've got in your stash so slash and spread your sleeves put some pleats in and voila you've got this top i was looking for the armpit situation this one's not nearly as bad as that raglan was i'm wondering if the further we get back i don't know if she like oh that's kind of cute with the with the sheer sleeve again you can do that with any pattern you got already you don't need to buy this one to do that that's a close-up of the pleats which is really nice i was gonna say i'm wondering if we get further back like i think the way that the the websites are organized is the newest pattern is first so maybe these older patterns she was using like a different drafting situation in the sleeve okay next be pretty okay v-neck blouse or dress lined front back yoke in one piece for perfect finish so again the burrito method box pleat beneath back yoke traditional like button down shirt vibe long sleeve either plain or with tear resistant slit and button cuff flounces can be added beneath front and or back yoke so yeah from here up it's kind of just like a regular button down you can add a little ruffle there i don't know what the tear proof slit means shouldn't they all be tear proof um we have kind of a slight french um dart there kind of long in the shoulder i guess it's a little bit unique that you don't normally see like front yokes on like a just a v-neck there's the back doesn't really fit through the hip here it is in a shirting with that ruffle so cute again take any button down shirt that you've got in your stash you can add that ruffle into it same thing here yeah they all look a little bit small just really small and a lot of pulling through here um all these older ones i didn't notice that in the earlier ones yeah cute little design again i could hack that into just about any pattern that i've already got yeah i think it's just high i think that the arms eye is just high oh she put piping in this one that's a cute detail too and then here's the dress version just extended and then she added her own belt now we've got something called tokyo dress or blouse with round neckline long and slightly rounded shoulder finished with a yoke and a flared skirt the model can be lined or not so an elastic waist dress again we this is nothing new but i think in her like about me she said she started designing in 2015 so i mean the drop waist everything about this is like 10 years old i get it um so i don't know i mean do we have an opinion about designers like retiring certain designs like they do in big four certain things being out of print because they're just i mean i think you'd expect for them to be timeless and you know be able to be desirable for years and years but does it do them a disservice you know to have some patterns where like in the beginning obviously i was like yes yes yes i'd like all these this is so great like i'm gonna buy them all and now that we're getting toward the end here aka the beginning of her designing career i'm feeling less and less like excited not that i won't go back and get those other ones but i don't know just makes me feel like maybe there is some validity to retiring some patterns that are not representative of who you are as a designer anymore or not representative of what's in style anymore that said this is helios helios is a sundress with two linked options the v neck and cinched waist create a feminine appearance while the pretty butterfly slaves add a floaty look on the back the waist is elasticated and a drawstring selected according to taste runs through to be to the front where it is tied two sleeve links and three dress links make a very versatile item ranging from a little beach dress to an elegant cocktail outfit yes i'm getting beach cover-up vibes i'm even getting like a little bit of lingerie vibes maybe the trim is helping with that this is a maxi version it does not look like the beach or like lingerie this is new we haven't seen an illustration like this you know at all oh so it's like a um shoot what are those called it is like a beach dress that's how you sew those it's a rectangle and then you sew a little seam up here and then it makes sleeves and then these are your different links you can just add tears to the bottom again i think you can even find patterns like this for free uh or at least like this one and then you just add your tears to it so i don't know anybody that's going to be spending a ton of money on this because it kind of already exists for free let's see if there's any other versions besides this green dress here's the white dress again that would be really pretty um the whites making me think of bridal um if it were in like a little bit drapery of a fabric it would be super pretty for like a bridal rehearsal dinner or something oh and this one yeah she looks like she's ready to go tour you know Versailles or something so really cute can be done without spending nine and a half euros on it this does say that it has the sizes but no like size chart i don't think it would be there certainly she has a size chart within the instructions so she just needs to pull that out and attach it to here or give us a link or something so here is another button front i think we've seen this before right front yoke with the collar back yoke with a little bit of gather but in front you've got some cuffs we don't need to look at that right same thing with this we've seen the little like wings this one i guess okay i will take a look at this simply because the back looks so interesting with this trim detail in the back but i really only want to look at the pictures okay so lots of options here but that the yoke the yoke in the back right i was going to say i bet it would be really cool in a sheer and i'm right that is really cool so this feels unique right this feels modern there it is in the front yeah that's really cool i like this one a lot um we're back to liking so or you can use a solid fabric obviously i just love that this go this little ruffle goes up into the shoulder i think that that is so sweet right it just like carries around of course i love gingham here you can see a better picture of it here oh it just scoops around into the back it's kind of like a country you know western shirt but cuter but cuter yeah exactly and i don't know could you do this on your own yeah you just like you know cut this apart in a v shape and you know add your seam allowances and then make a big long ruffle yeah you could probably do it on your own um yeah cute cute idea cute idea and that was vertige i think vertige okay next we have claudy which is a cardigan peter pancaller cardigan line jacket with straight cut and peter pancaller various finishing options for a different style every time whether that a collar zipper or elastic waistband from most chic to most hip okay i bet that's the chic version open front jacket oh yeah this does kind of have a lot of options okay so we have that gray version we have this version which looks just like the gray version here's your collar yeah not a fan of peter pan again though 2015 i think peter pan was having a moment i had lots of patterns with peter pancallers she might have put a little piping in here which is a very interesting detail that's it so we don't get one of the elastic um hem which is a bummer because i kind of wanted to see that yeah it's just yeah simple again i probably have a whole bunch of these in my stash and if i don't you know like for nine euros you can get these at simplicity for a dollar um so not worth the value i don't think all right now we have this jacket called mersey straight cut coat with front button or zip closure with or without a collar the front cuts include two pockets edged with a ruffle or not the back of the coat can either be straight and simple or adorned with a fancy back gathered by an elastic for a more comfortable and stylish look what does all of that mean because it sounds cute so you've got your seam here with the pocket in it and a ruffle button front collar wow okay so it's kind of like an angled sort of princess seam you put a little pocket in there you can make a little welts ruffle collar less collared and then you have your two back options also zippered or buttoned let's see some of these here's the plain back right it kind of gives a bit of a cocoon shape buttoned okay here is the inside where you can see some of the lining details here is oh it's not is it zippered and that's like a flap the collar less is really chic to me yeah you can see the little pocket there i don't know it's just covered buttons or what here's the back which kind of makes it look like a jacket over a skirt i don't think the elastic is meant to be functional it obviously sits you know at or a little bit below the high hip i don't know it's is it it's really cool but maybe too cool for me like people would think that i made a mistake or something i don't know let me find out about the zippers it shouldn't say about closures let's see down here is there closure information lining sleeve head interfacing open in zip or six buttons and then your elastic band okay i mean i think it probably doesn't help either that i already saw the other kind of like long jacket that i just like more than that one artisan artisan artisan straight blouse with shortened gathered sleeves above a wristband or simple short sleeves lined yoke with diagonal cutting at the front mean bias on the bias and nice v low neck at the back with a thin tab above again that's really hard to button by yourself so gathers with little volume below back and front darts declinable into a dress meaning you can lengthen it elastic waist or not french seams and sheath finishes so there's the back you have this little yoke band thing with three buttons the v is really cute and sweet this is the front front yoke with little gathers great room for your bust we have to see in the garment on this one that shows the yoke lining oh here's the dress yeah that's hard to read with the stripes but yeah she's cute again nothing that i'm gonna be like oh my gosh i have to have that like i saw in a store i'd probably keep moving you know this is the dress with the elastic in it in the waist let's see up inside what are we looking at just the drawstring the elastic casing okay cute thanks for sharing this one she got her sister or somebody to help her model it oh this embroidery is really cute that's a obviously all yokes are a great place to add any kind of embroidery you can see it here too oh look bye see y'all it's fun hanging out goodness that's what happens in long videos i start to go a little wacky but good news whoops is that we're on our last pattern zephyr and it is a v-neck blouser dress with delicately full skirt lined bodice for a perfect finish long or seven eighth sleeves finished with a simple hem or a tear resistant slit what does that mean cuff and flounce yeah so it's like a little bit of a baby doll okay oh here's a little pink version so this whole part is lined and this part is not oh is it supposed to be crooked like that i don't think so that's a cute view i just love volume tops and this one seems a little bit short through here maybe it's rolling to the back some did she put a ruffle here girlfriend likes a ruffle and so do i yeah now this looks a little bit high you know like the bottom of her bust is like right here so this should come down some yeah that looks a lot better already even that though kind of kind of a little bit high somewhere in the middle cute though and that's a little chambray and little ruffle so so sweet but again basic almost too basic you know oh this is the tear resistant slit i don't know why we have to say that it's tear resistant aren't all seems tear resistant i guess no well resistant yes you know it's an odd way to say that you know oh this one she put a little trim in you know what she does have a lot of really really great ideas for how we can embellish the patterns we already have i know that that's terrible but um yeah it does look well maybe it could be a little bit more forward i'm looking at the shoulder seam here because you can see how this comes up in the middle and it just needs to be be straight across because the the um line drawing show it being straight across see i mean maybe there's a little curve there but not not as dramatic as it's seeming now that i'm looking at this this also seems high i don't know i think that i'm probably overthinking this little basic blouse okay so that is it that is atelier scummit what do we think obviously i'm a fan um i thought let's i'm just gonna kind of bruise all this while i get my final thoughts she had some really really cute ideas really cute designs especially like her more recent stuff you can really tell that she's kind of like evolving as a designer and i just love that so much um look you can get little girl versions of the adult versions so sweet um i definitely will be grabbing one or two maybe of these patterns look there's a little purse patterns that's free um there were a lot of them that i really liked that felt unique and different yet also still very much my style but i want to know what you guys think of these patterns um are they something you would be investing in do they feel like special enough unique enough something that you can't get anywhere else do they feel like your style um any of those things let me know in the comment section below if you do end up buying them let me know if you are someone who has bought these before you own atelier scummit patterns and you've made them please please please leave a comment because that helps the rest of us kind of know what to expect whenever we get into the instructions and the drafting and all of that kind of stuff so that is going to do it for me today i have linked here at the end slate the last first impression friday i did which was for the vogue spring patterns so check that out if you are inclined otherwise i will see you all very soon bye