 Welcome to the first episode of Subaru EJ25 engine assembly and this is what we got. I've been waiting a while for all the parts to come back from the machine shop. As you can see the block is nice and clean. I just cleaned it myself. Again I know the machine shop they do clean the block but just to make sure you always want to make sure there is no metal shavings left anywhere. It can be bad news. Anyways they did deck both both surfaces. They also checked the line bore for roundness which was okay and they did go one size over. I believe it's 99.7 right now the bore size and they did hone it obviously. So the block is ready to go. Here we got the main bearings. These are you probably won't be able to see it but it says XPG racing standard size. Here we got the crank and I will explain a bit later why it's the rods are on it already. I will not be removing them and we got some plastic gauge. We're gonna install the crank torque the two halves together with the plastic gauge on the mains and just to double check the machine shop's work. I did tell them to measure everything. I do not have any measuring equipment besides this but you can really measure all the critical components of an engine properly with that tool obviously and I'm not about to invest you know $3,000 or so on good equipment measuring equipment. I do not put engines together often. I know I could invest in like a three or four three or a $400 gauge set from Amazon for example but this is an important build. If this was a daily car then yeah that's fine but since this car is gonna be seeing tracks and autocrosses on a regular basis because of that I don't want to risk having my measurements off. That's why I told the machine shop to basically measure everything and that's why I am not taking the rods off the crank because the the ARP bolts that I've bought for the rods and the heads especially on the rods they are stretch bolts and we'll talk about later. All right making sure everything is nice and clean including the main bearings obviously. This one doesn't matter it's same on both sides so we're gonna pop it in push it in all the way making sure these edges this the edge of the bearing doesn't stick up too much and on the rest of the bearings you can see there's a little tab on one side that goes in here same thing here see this guy here no oil between the the bottom part of the bearing and the black. I know there's plenty videos on how to put the EJ25s together and probably hundreds of them by now but there's never one that's very detailed just from A to Z all of it so I decided to do one anyways one more one hurt so I'm gonna try and be detailed show every single step try to make it as quick as possible so if you want to follow this build subscribe and make sure you hit the the bell button whatever so you get notified whenever there's a new episode up that noise that you're hearing right now that's the heater it is cold outside winter is here I imagine this will be quite a few episodes since we're doing everything from what you just saw all the way up to till the car gets dined all right I thought I was recording but apparently it wasn't anyways you can see the the plastic the plastic gauge right here basically what you do is you cut up short pieces and you put it on top of each journal sideways before that you put the crank in no assembly lube or oil of any kind right now do not rotate the crank when you're just checking the clearances with plastic gauge now it's just a matter of putting the other half of the block on top there is assembly loop on the rods there we go just using its own weight kind of this is as far as it's gonna drop on its own using a rubber mallet okay looks like we're even on both sides these are stock bolts the washers need to be replaced we'll do that later but we're only doing the plastic gauge thing right now now two of these are different look at the the thickness of the washers the thicker ones go inside inside the the block the thinner ones go on the outside which is actually right here there's two so actually the shorter shorter ones go on the outside here okay I'm gonna add a little bit of oil on the thread on the bottom side of the washer this is so the torque when we torque it down it will be easier for the bolt to get tightened down so it doesn't get stuck against the washer against the block or on the threads somewhere so that needs to be done to all of them notice I'm wiping everything down trying to keep this as clean as possible even the socket on the inside I'm actually gonna just set it down so I don't have to lift it all the bolts have been torqued I will show the torque specifications and sequence when I will be torquing it for the last time no need to install any of these outside bolts remember we are only double checking the clearance so now it's time to remove the bolts looks like we have some success here I don't know if you can see this but there we go see the lines on the journals there on the mains same thing on the bearings here now all I got to do is measure it and the way to do that is you basically but say this is the line to do is you match it up with the measurement okay whatever it may be and that's it that's pretty much it so that's what I'm gonna do right now I will not show the clearances for any of the mains or rods or whatever only because as many people that many opinions this is the way I did it all I can say is that everything is a little bit looser as far as the bearings go and obviously much looser on the mainly pistons they are forged after all and I will explain why why you need the bigger clearances piston tool cylinder wall if you have forged pistons so now after measuring it I'm gonna remove the crank clean up the plastic gauge and start the actual assembly before I install the crank I wanted to show you something all of it got also balanced I might have to mention that before the rod these are stuck rods by the way you can see the way they balance it rods for example they put it on two weights and weigh the rod on each side at the same time and then some if if this side is heavier than the they pretty much match all the rods and you can see some material had to be taken off of this one see this one looks factory this one does not and on this side can see the same thing the little bit was taken off here and it wasn't here so this whole thing was balanced same thing was done to the pistons the crank the flywheel the factories do not do that to any of their cars maybe some high-end cars do get this kind of treatment but not your regular you know Subaru's Mitsubishi's hand does whatever now I kept the old O-rings and all the gas gets in fact so I can match up the new ones I put a little bit of oil on my fingers just loop these up a bit this just ensures a better seal I using this kind of assembly loop make sure the loop is everywhere everywhere on the bearings not on the block remember silicone goes between the two halves so you don't want we're gonna be putting silicone right about here so if you get assembly loop on the block on this mating area surface then you're gonna be cleaning that up just like snot okay now I'm gonna grab the crank or the rods I should say and grab the second rod and the fourth rod looking from the front so like that let the other two drop and slowly drop it in there we go so you can see how it looks as of now we got the four O-rings installed the usually the assembly loop will hold the rod up I mean both of these they got a point straight up so you can actually install the second half of the block forgot to mention why I am not taking the rods off just to check the measurement because I don't have any of the gauges the if these bolts were stock bolts then I could just torque them down but since these are ARP what you do is what they ask for is you torque these down on the crank obviously and then you measure the length of the bolt so you would measure your top of the bolt to the bottom of the bolt if it's too short or too long you pretty much adjust it tighten it more if it's too short so it stretches more so these are stretch bolts so you need a stretch gauge to actually get these in the right position forgot I should apply silicone first then install the crank so I'll just remove it look it took a bearing with it no biggie okay now I'm just making sure that wherever the silicone goes the surface is super clean see check this out look after me cleaning it it's still dirty so clean clean clean using brake cleaner okay now we're gonna apply the RTV what I'm using is this ultra gray maximum torque gasket maker I actually bought this just for this job just to make my life easier you want to be as even as possible I guess I cut an opening of an eighth of an inch basically what I'm doing is going around each hole next to the bearings and then on the inside area or the the outside of the case but on the inside of the bolts all around and then little bit well we'll see we'll see how it goes should be good I think let me go another line here probably didn't have to do this part okay now it's time to drop in the crank see this area here that's critical because you don't want to go too close with the silicone to the crank that's why I put a very thin layer a small bead of the RTV okay try and balance the rod okay forgot to put new washers these are rub with rubber seals on the inside of them and the inside bolts so we gotta do this quickly before the RTV dries up they should go on tight gonna apply oil more oil this time and install the short bolts that go on the outside no new washers for these forgot to put oil on the short ones so these instructions actually say assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around the flange let dry for one hour then tighten to torque specifications so so plenty of time actually got it coming out on top here a little bit and on the front here I see a little gap here I'm gonna tighten it some more now I'm gonna flip it or just lay it on its bottom now it's much heavier so only the thicker washers get replaced all together at six of the six of them okay now while I wait let's install the rest of the bolts here you can see the silicone coming out which is perfect it's not too much again oil on these there is one more on the very bottom but I'm gonna wait till it dries up so about 45 minutes or so tiny bit of silicone see came out there you want to clean this up so when when I'm gonna be putting the oil seal back in that will not interfere with the new oil seal alright it's been about an hour time to torque it down now what I do and this is this is what I do there there are several different ways to different torque specs and whatnot but it's all a similar specification what I do is I start with 10 feet pounds of torque then 25 and 37 and on this side which is the pet the driver side I go 1 2 3 4 and then continue on the other side and then come back to this side and other side and then this side and then the other side again and go 10 25 37 top bolt now bottom bolt now top front and bottom front now middle top middle bottom now number three is front top and I went over one that's okay this is only the first sequence so we were number one two three now four five and six that takes care of the first sequence now we're gonna switch it to 25 there you go now 37 I don't like the way the bolts are cracking I'm gonna recheck later so silicone is actually coming out a little bit which is good now the top ones oh yeah this is 18 now I'm just gonna simply recheck all of them switch to 37 on this back to 18 more silicone squeezed out 10 mil bolt which goes the 10 mil okay it goes right now yep right here