 triple through wedged mortise and tenons. Part three. Parts one and two we talked about using the router to cut these mortises by using a template. We discussed squaring the mortises on both sides. Part two we discussed some of the principles of what we needed to do to those mortises. One of which was make sure that on the entry side it is wider than on the exit side. That way we can push a tenon through there. It'll fit but it'll just squeeze out on the other side and that's exactly what we want. We want the tenon to be the same size as the first half inch in here and for that tenon to be right up against those walls. All right we also discussed when you're tapering in order to accommodate the splitting with it with the wedges that that taper needs to go all the way down in a straight line to almost the bottom. In other words if I'm an inch and a half up here and an inch and a quarter down below then I need that to go almost the way down. I can't just go with the first half an inch or inch in and then have it go straight down from there. Otherwise the wedge won't be able to go down deep enough to spread the outside edge over to the wall. All right so now we're in part three and we're talking about fitting the tenons for the mortises. The first thing that I do and I've already done it I'm just going to talk about it is I use my Veritas dual marking gauge and I go from a common reference point in this case the top. Adjust my marking devices to where they just bridge that mortise and then with that all set then I go and it's gone here now so I can't do it. Then I go to the top edge of my tenon piece and I mark where that tenon is going to be and that should be awfully precise so I have this part here. I've marked off all three tenons and then I need to get that cut somehow. I can cut it by hand that's a lot of work particularly when you're talking about so many of these connections. I could do it a number of different ways. The way I like to do it is to I have power tools so I want to use them so I take this to the bandsaw and I push this across the bandsaw making sure that I stay in the waist area of my line. In other words when I'm done cutting on the bandsaw I can still see my lines and that my lines should be the exact width that I want so as long as I can still see them then what I start doing is I start paring down to the lines and when I get pretty close then I start measuring like crazy so if this is my tenon number three this is my mortise number three this mortise size wise so that's like point eight three so if I measure this then I'm at like point eight seven point eight eight well point eight eight will not fit into point eight three so I don't even need to try I see a lot of people trying and trying and till they finally get to fit well use some calipers just you know if you need to measure two or three times to convince yourself that your tenon is still bigger than your mortise then go ahead and do that furthermore my mortise on the other side is even less so if I measure number three here mortise number three I get them all labeled with little tape so I know which tenon is going into which mortise and that's like point eight zero and so I need to get this down to where it'll fit in and end up at point eight zero now the part that I want to focus on since I have about a quarter of an inch half an inch here that will stick out is I'm dealing with this area right here that is going to be somewhere in there is going to be right at my outside edge in other words when they come out here that's going to be somewhere between these two lines what I do is I make that my area that once I get it to be equal to my outside mortise hole I make very sure I don't sand it chisel it file it or do anything to it again once I get at the right size to fit my outs my exiting part of my mortise then it is religiously left alone furthermore the outside edges of my mortise are not to be touched because I'm trying to get everything to fit that once I decide that this area right here is equal to this area here then I don't touch either one of them I might have to go inside here to carve out my inner walls but I do that by taking my chisel below the lip and then try to make that wall convex so don't touch it don't touch the edge don't touch the critical area so all the rest of this can be chiseled away until I know that it's small enough to fit into my mortise I don't even care if this is smaller down here than it is at my critical spot because that won't be seen I'll have a blind area here where everything closes up and that's all inside of the of the the joint this is what's seen this is what I want to look like I know what I'm doing so that's where I am that's what I do I just continue to chisel away usually going you know in this way watching my grain splitting make sure I don't get too big of a chunk coming off getting down to my lines measure measure measure measure measure measure measure when I finally feel like it's equal to or less than my mortise then I'll I'll try the fit I I want to sneak up on it I don't want to end up overshooting it and then finding out that in my critical area it is too small compared to the critical area of my mortise which is the actually this side here which is where it's going to come out so I want this exactly equal to this and everything else doesn't matter so much so when I say that you can round over these edges but if you going to do that start beyond your line start beyond your sacrosanct area don't touch this area do it back here so around these edges make sure the corners are nice and clean round over the entry edges so you don't have a nice sharp piece trying to push through that mortise and catching on some little piece in there you might have to keep coming back and cleaning up the inside of your mortise but again don't touch the exiting face perfectly okay to touch the interior face the face where you're going to enter so I just keep doing that until it fits then I look for any gaps that I might have anywhere here and whether or not it's closing up nice and tight I'm not going to go into that in this video but I do have another video called how to use your feeler gauges in order to close up any gaps in your joinery that's the end of part 3 I hope if you're going to do the samurai carpenter workbench or something that's similar with triple through wedge mortise and tenons that this series of three videos will help you do that small workshop guy signing off