 The Prusa Mini is a great little machine, but it's also known for some blobbing, stringing, and sometimes heat cream. Today, we're going to fix all of that and more with one awesome upgrade from Slice Engineering. This is the Slice Engineering Copperhead Upgrade Kit made specifically for the Prusa Mini. Today, I'm going to show you how easy and super fast this is to install, and I'm going to show you how to finish calibrating the Prusa Mini when you're done installing it. This Slice Engineering Copperhead Upgrade Kit will work for the Prusa Mini and the Prusa Mini Plus. It comes with the Copperhead Hot Block, the Copperhead Heat Break, a Bridgemaster 0.4 Nozzle, the Silicone Copperhead Boot, a piece of Capricorn Premium PTFE tubing, enough Boron Nitride Paste to do five of these upgrades, and a small little tiny dowel pin, and you'll see what that's used for later. You are going to need a few tools for this. You'll need a 1.5 millimeter, a 2 millimeter, and a 2.5 millimeter Allen wrench, an adjustable wrench or a pliers. Adjustable wrench could be this style where you open and shut it, or like I said, just a regular pliers will work too, and a 7 millimeter socket. Start by moving the Z-head all the way up, and then the print head all the way to the left. Then heat up the hot end to 250 degrees Celsius, and make sure you unload any filament that's loaded currently. Take the wrench or pliers and hold the hot block with the wrench or pliers in the front so you don't damage anything. Then loosen the nozzle and take it out with a 7 millimeter socket. Remember, this is very hot, so you don't want to touch any of this. Once the nozzle's out, you want to cool down the hot end. This may take a few minutes, so grab something to drink or whatever. Just let it cool down completely, because you don't want to burn your fingers. Now take the 1.5 millimeter Allen wrench, and loosen the set screw for the thermistor. That's the one right here. You don't have to take it all the way out, just make sure it's loose. Now with the 2 millimeter Allen wrench, you want to loosen the heater screw right here. Don't take it all the way out, just make sure it's loose. Now hold on to the hot block with your pliers or your wrench, and push the thermistor and the heater out of the block with your 2 millimeter Allen wrench, like this. There are three screws right up the side of your hot end right here. You want to loosen all three of those screws, and again, you don't have to take them all the way out, just make sure they're loose. Now pull the whole hot end down and out. We can actually set that aside, because now it's time to prepare our copperhead. We're going to start by taking the copperhead hot end and pushing the pre-cut PTFE tubing down into the heat break. There's a small screw on the side of the copperhead hot block, and we're actually going to remove that screw with a 2 millimeter Allen wrench. Be careful, because that little dowel pin I was talking about earlier is inside of the hot block, and you don't want to lose that. Now we need to find these two screws here in the side of the Super Pinda sensor holder. Take those two screws out and set that whole assembly to the side. If you're getting value from today's video, please smash that like button. It really helps push this video out further into the community where more people can see this awesome upgrade. Also, if you haven't yet, please consider subscribing to the channel for more awesome 3D printing content just like this. Now back to it. Take your new copperhead hot end and insert it into the heat sink. Make sure it's in this orientation right here, where the flat part of the hot end is in the back, and the two holes are on your right side if you're looking at the printer. Now, while holding your copperhead straight, use a one and a half millimeter Allen wrench and tighten those three screws that we loosened earlier right here. Using the foam swab that came with the kit, put some boron nitride paste on it and thoroughly coat the heater cartridge and the temperature sensor all the way around. It only needs a thin coat, so be sure not to make it too thick and clean off any excess paste with a paper towel. Take the temp sensor, which is the smaller of the two, and put it into the top hole here. Then push the heater cartridge into the bottom hole here. Grab that little retaining screw we took out earlier and put it back in with the two millimeter Allen wrench. This will hold the temperature sensor and the heat cartridge in place, but be sure you don't over tighten this because you don't want to damage anything. Just make sure it's tight. Now we can put the super pinned amount back in place and screw it back in with the two and a half millimeter Allen wrench and screws that we took out earlier. Grab the new silicone sock and put it on the copperhead hot block. Make sure it's all the way on and secured as you don't want it falling off during a print or dragging and hitting anything while it's printing. That's it! We are officially done installing the Slice Engineering Copperhead upgrade kit on my Prusa Mini, but before we do any prints, we need to do just a couple quick calibrations and make sure this thing is dialed in and then we'll be ready to lay down that sweet plastic. To calibrate it, what we're going to do is go into the calibration menu and choose wizard. Then run your wizard. It will go through and test the heaters, the fans, all the accesses, all the good stuff and then walk you through the bed leveling calibration as well. And then when you're all done with that, everything should be calibrated and leveled. It may be a good idea to run a PID tune or two as well and I'll link a video in the description below if you want to go through that process. It's a little bit more lengthy than we want to fit in this video, but it always can't hurt to do it. So if you want to, the video is in the description below. So I just want to jump in because when I was doing that calibration, I noticed that I couldn't get low enough for the filament to hit the bed. That's because my new Copperhead was pushed too far up. So I needed to pull it down a little bit and make sure it's lower than that SuperPinda Probe right there. And I just wanted to do that carefully by loosening up the three screws on the side and then pulling it down a little bit. Make sure it's not hot because you will burn yourself, but I'm going to tighten these back up and try again. And that's it. You've officially installed your Copperhead kit for the Prusa Mini from Slice Engineering. You've tuned your printer and you're ready to print. A couple quick things though. Number one, when you're pushing the thermistor and the heat block out, be very careful. It took a while to get the back one out and you just have to be very careful that you don't break any wires. You don't damage anything. It doesn't just push out and if it does, you're lucky. Number two, you saw in my little interjection video that I had it push too far up. Don't make that mistake before you do this. Make sure the nozzle looks like it's lower than your SuperPinda, then your AutoBed leveling sensor because if it's not, you'll never get low enough to get a good layer. All I did to lower is loosen those three screws along the side that we loosened and tightened before. Hold it down just a little bit until it looked like it was lower, tighten them back up and then ran the calibration again. When I ran the calibration again, I'm getting really nice layers. And also, number three, if you're looking for one, check out the description below where I'll have a link to Slice Engineering. It is an affiliate link and it helps the channel out. I really appreciate it if you use that. Just a quick note on time. If I was not filming this, I probably would have been done in roughly 20 minutes. It's actually very quick to do. The longest thing that I took to do was trying to push that thermistor and the heat block out because I was trying not to break anything. Other than that, it actually went really smooth. If I wasn't filming, it would have been way faster. Also, thank you so much to Dan over at Slice Engineering for sending this kit over. I cannot wait to start ripping some awesome prints off of the copperhead on my Prusa Mini. And let me know in the comments below what Prusa Mini upgrades that you've done and if you've tried the copperhead or maybe if you want to try the copperhead. I would love to know if you have. And if you're looking for a really nice printer at a great price, check this out.