 Welcome back to this retro tech special. We are looking at a Olympus PVM OEV 142 14 inch Sony PVM basically with a different name on The front just a different name might down here and here. It's practically identical to the 14 inch Sony PVM 14 m2 or 1353 MD that type of a unit But today this one's got some issues and it's going to be the first one That's going to be torn down all the way We're going to recap it and then I'm also going to do some different things with the shell I'm basically try to take this apart as far apart as I can and Rebuild it and hopefully it'll be perfect brand new Working once we get done with it because the tube is still really good and a lot of the parts are still really good But there's an issue with Geometry today is going to be the first part. So just up front. I want everybody know this is going to be a multi-part Episode where today I'm just going to have to tear it all down I'm going to show you how I do that and just walk you and talk you through that while I'm doing it The reason I'm going to have to do this in a couple parts is I'm going to show you then after I get it apart How I'm going to have to make a list of all the capacitors I need and double-check everything And what I'll be replacing and repairing. So we're just going to go ahead and get right into the Tear down and the first thing as Brutus goes in there and lays down over there to the left. We're going to do is take a Discharge tool and discharge the PVM and then I'll show you how About we'll go Taking it apart and everything like that So first let's get the monitor turned around okay, so back here at the tube and again nothing's plugged in and We're going to go ahead and start by discharging this monitor and we'll have Brutus sit over there and and watch us as we go and So if anything happens, you can take care of us I want you to take a notice if you ever do get a Olympus monitor you can check once you open it You'll see everything looks exactly the same as the Sony's I was talking about and it says up here Sony even on some of the decals And so we're going to go ahead and discharge this and this is my discharge tool which I Will link to at the end of this video because I did make a video a couple months back on how I made it What I want to do is I want to pick a nice point on here where it's the grounding Is looped into the whole monitor and it's easy on these you can see all these green ground wires are going to a point I like this point here where I've actually got a bunch of different ground wires and it is attached to the frame and You know sometimes you want to try to just get that screwed just loosened a little bit so you can feed your wire under it And that's just what I'm doing here so That's kind of spot now if you don't have That spot you can pick the corners But on this monitor all that's connected to the same metal. So it's a really good safe spot to Make sure you're grounded We go Test it pull it hard see it's definitely in there and then I've got my gloves Which I've done a video on before and you don't probably need this but just to be safe I like to wear gloves and be safe These are my electrical gloves. They're high quality We're about a hundred bucks and Here's my tool. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna slip this tool in make sure my cords nice and out of the way and We're gonna just slip it under this anode cap I'm kind of feel around there and it's okay if that pops up like that a little bit this that's okay We're not trying to actually get this. I mean it might come out, but that's not what we're trying to do Really what we're trying to do first is to just go in there and just use one hand again Always use one hand, but if you look you could see the metal so This one hasn't even been turned on in a while so I see the metal right there And it's definitely discharged and ready to come out so there was no pop sometimes these monitors will discharge themselves and Then you know, there's really no Thankfully these these are a great job of doing that discharging themselves for the most part so That's gotten pretty well. I'm done right there And there we have our anode cap out and you can see here We're discharged and safe to touch So this is the two metal points that you want to make contact with when you're discharging the monitor Sometimes you'll hear a tick sometimes you'll hear nothing like we just did so now And we really don't have to worry about electrical current But you do have to worry about it right here on your anode spot I've heard of people shocking themselves by putting their finger over that and like Hitting inside there because electricity can still stay inside that tube somewhat And you can even you know, like I say if you wear a wedding ring or anything else That's what I this guy did he had a wedding ring on it shocked him when he went across there and grabbed the tube thinking it had been discharged Okay back looking at this overhead view. I've got set up. I want to take you through kind of the next steps here of How we're gonna take this monitor apart and get to that deflection board, which is the board at the bottom where the flyback is and Some things we're gonna go ahead and do while I'm working here The first thing I want to get off. I think it's gonna be the neck board just to get it out of the way and This input board now when we're working on this input board down here We can get it out of the way pretty easily and You want to just loosen up your wires Don't worry about them being on these connections so you can always take them out and then There's a little tab here at the bottom where my right thumb is It's a little tab right here if you pull that out a little bit and lift up that's how this board comes out and there's one on each side try not to damage it and You'll be okay because you don't want to damage it so you can see here that that's kind of a Pain to get around so we're gonna probably have to remove it Initially and then we're gonna move from there to the neck board We don't want to really hurt anything so we're gonna take our time She can see there's there's these clamps that if you if you remove them you give yourself some more space They're just these Spacers and you can come back in when you're reassembling your monitor and use them again and Then but what you want to do now while you're working back here is Start marking Anything if you're gonna be pulling it out from where it goes except for you know some of this stuff It's pretty obvious that where it will go back in for instance There's some pin connectors down here That you just wiggle on that come straight up be careful because you don't want to damage any of this stuff But like on the back of this board I know that those are gonna go back in that spot and they're not the same size and different colors actually so I'm not as concerned about getting those Getting those marked out and Let's see here. So we've got a little card back there and It comes in here on this gray cable And you got to sort of work your way through and see what you're gonna need to disconnect and where it's gonna connect from so Leave those down there. You're gonna work with here. There's a ground set up I know you can't see a lot of this from this camera view so It looks like these three right here would need to come out from the back of our Just our peeve are bored right here to begin with and then those go and attach to spots in the front of the PVM so What we're gonna want to do is use a magic marker And just make a little mark and kind of match up where those things work, of course some of these like on the back here These these are color coordinated The ones you really got to be concerned with is anything that you may forget like these are all None of those are similar and like they're all different size, so I know exactly where those will go at least if I If I forget somehow, I don't know exactly where those are going and I'm not gonna be rebuilding any of the capacitors on this input board. There's no problems with it But I am going to be Unattaching a lot of these ground spots because that's what's left holding this board in place are these ground spots And you probably can't see so if I move it around here You see the last thing are these ground spots, so you can just take a screwdriver under those screws pull out the cables And that's what I'm gonna do now, so I'll take a brief second and we'll come back after I finish that Okay, so I've taken the screws out And if I only got this whole thing taken off and out of the way just take a look here I did have to improvise and clip this one because I think this is like lock-tighted in here something in that one Went straight to the board into a solder point for a ground loop so I'll probably just have to splice that back and put some Tape around it or something and protect it, but that's fine. That's not a big deal I'll just redo that or I'll just add it to another spot on here What that wasn't in use because a couple of spots weren't even use, but that's your video input board for this model and That's the first thing that's gonna be out of the way and Now we're gonna get to the more important stuff here some things you can see so It's pretty obvious where this thing connects to And what I'm gonna do is just to be safe I'm gonna put and take my marker and Then I draw like a spot You see how I drew that spot how you can match up and I'll do it unique to each connector just to make sure that Then I know which one's going to which to see I drew something right there So I know that those two need to go on that spot and and these connectors probably aren't gonna be the same but The next thing I want to do is get this neck board out of the way So you see some of these will have you just need to check these and make sure you don't rip them up Make sure you get the clips right. They usually have a clip on them that Helps you open them So there's one and there's another two connectors on the other side And I've got the bottom Black cable that I'm removing now next now. That's everything from my From my neck board here and The last thing that's there is this little bit of epoxy and I had a question that I went over about epoxy and the first thing I want to do is just check the integrity of the epoxy a Lot of times it just starts to break apart if you just wiggle the zecto knife. That's just be careful not to Damage anything, but if you usually just cut into it a little bit It'll make it at least break apart to the point where you can get it off to the most the part see just work it off and And that should probably be enough to at least get the neck board off And I just get this usually a little wiggle back and forth and It starts to come you don't want to really bend your pins. You want to come straight back Usually use two hands to come back so you don't bend those pins up and so There you have it That's our neck board right there and then you know before we reseat this We'll clean all this old epoxy off it usually just pick it off with your fingers and the zecto knife Comes right off and then you can even see I'm gonna zoom in here So just take care that just know that in the quality you can see how some of these pins now They're not bad or anything, but they did bend a little bit Because they're very soft. You don't want to you don't want to hurt these pins Okay, be careful. This is actually just a little spacer that's on top of here that black thing But see you can just pull Just be gentle with this stuff and you should be fine take your time, you know, so That's how you get rid of the neck board and that's all we're gonna do for that okay, we switched around here and You need to notice again. We've still got some connection points to be concerned with this one over here actually connects to the yoke and it's very large and unique and Should just slipped right out. There's might be a connection. There's a little thing right here So and just look around and see if you can find what's holding that in place I can't tell whether that's on the There we go There you go that one and that's sure that's unique There's not another plug that looks like that and that's marked already pretty much so most of the time You won't have to worry about that now at the very front Look at this once you get this thing Disassembled this whole black tray right here Don't worry about getting that board out yet. It comes out and slides out That's what I wanted to show from the same. Let's start the slide Make sure that the wires are all good and Okay, one thing I did was there was a board under there under the power supply that I pulled out That's that's easy. I mean that's some kind of Board Sony added and there's only one spot for it So that'll go back in later But that needed to be pulled so I wouldn't damage it and then I could pull this out a little further and gets these connectors up in the front to pull them out and Wiggle with them so they're all tied together. It should be easy to put back together once we get Our board recapped And then we've got two more over here That needs to be wiggled out and white one And then thankfully Sony changed colors because these two must be the same size a black one That's all I see that's connected and this should just slide right out If I've got it correct I'm gonna have to move some of these screw hole holders out Let me make sure I'm not Missing some spot on the bottom because it slides on the track kind of and then Not sure that The track Doesn't just you kind of pull it out and pull it off the track like anything should just slide out pull Board unit here, of course. I don't want to mess anything up, but Gotta get it out It's definitely hanging up in there and something That we're missing because I'm not doing that right Just gonna keep rolling and try to get this thing out Let's see Okay, so as I thought it really wasn't anything Just the cables were kind of stiff and then you had to work around these tabs and the sides they're meant to hold everything in place some of these wires. I'm just going to leave in place on the board And as I remove this I'll make sure that nothing's still connected there. See there's a little one up front. I didn't see and That appears to be it that there might be something There's a little black connector up front too there. So you've always got to be careful and then lastly Make sure we get up here And get our anode cap off of this This guy Here Opens up and lets them out and we have it So Long way around But as you can see now So it's left inside the pvm Let's just take a look here And that board does slip out nicely Anyway, this thing could just sit here like it is And um, we'll work on the uh component board. Let's take a closer look now At the whole deflection board Okay, everybody. So here we are back and inside now with the deflection board And actually main board pretty much and I'm sure this one like the other one's broken down into sections, but you can see just how many capacitors We're going to be working with on this Yeah, so I've estimated. I don't know. It looks like about 90 or more capacitors on this board. I'll replace every single one of them And I know that there's the service manual out there. I'm sure that's got them all listed in it But just to be safe Um, I'm actually going to go through myself and I'll just go through this thing systematically and by hand I'm going to Count all the capacitors document. I'm write them down what they are And then I'm going to go to the website that I use mouser And I'll actually order all the capacitors a lot of them are probably going to be the same So it won't be as tedious as it sounds, but I will do that individually I'll get all the capacitors ordered And then the next step will be individually recapping this like that's the way I do it I usually go and I pull one capacitor at a time replace it And do that systematically through the whole board it'll take a couple hours But it'll be done right And then we'll hook it back up and it'll work and it'll be ready for calibration But that's going to end this first part I really appreciate if you took the time to watch this entire video. Please look for the second one and We'll get it done and it will be a couple weeks while we're waiting on the parts to come in I'm also going to do some work on the shell. So keep an eye out for those upcoming videos Please please please if you enjoyed this at all give it a like And feel free to share that that helps a lot on the channel Thanks again for watching Retro Tech. I'm Steve and have a great day