 Hey everybody, welcome back today to Retro Tech. I'm Steve and we're in the CRT Bunker and we're going to be looking at a Sony BVM today. This is going to be a CRT and it's specifically the 14F5U broadcast video monitor. Now this one is a clients and it has been a little bit serviced but there's still a little more work to do on it so I thought we could do that together and also it would give me an opportunity to go over some of the unique features of this monitor. We'll try to do that a little bit more quickly. So first off this does have an 800 line resolution tube so it is slightly sharper than something like a PVM that is a 600 line tube in the M series or even the 50 series that you may find. This one only supports analog video so you're only going to get 240p and 480i and hey before we go too much more into the details please make sure you're subscribed to the channel and if you do use Bell notifications that'll be great if you set that for Retro Tech because I do have a lot of videos that come out about every six days so if you don't have those notifications on you might not get a notice it's something you're interested in seeing gets released. So just do that but let's go ahead now and jump back into some more on this BVM. This is again an F5U series meaning that it has a built-in controller with all the things that we need to use to access different inputs and make adjustments on the screen. The reason that is important to know is because the F1 series does not include the controller it would just be the actual CRT monitor by itself so that is a kind of important thing and I'm not going to go into too many details on what a lot of these things do they're pretty standard for a PVM or BVM. I will show you quickly the back here just to make some notes this particular monitor would have been made in the late 1990s today's is from 1998 the way this is set up is you have your power items over here on the left so we have our power supply and then we have our deflection board right here and then we have our video processing analog board and this is the main board in this BVM and it's included in a lot of BVMs up until the D series and the good thing about this is you have an automatic input here that will do RGB or component and then you see these slot covers and another card here with this particular BVM can have up to four different inputs so you can add specific cards for whatever you may need this one includes a 21d which is another component and possibly composite other inputs but you can refer to the manual and it will show you which of these cards actually works with this monitor and what the buildouts you need to have a specific input and a specific region for example like PAL some of the cards cannot do PAL and other ones can over here is your system control the one more thing is is if you're going to set up this monitor you do need to use 75 ohm terminators on this BVM it does not include self-termination like many of the other companies used as well as like the Sony PVMs a lot of them are self-terminating so you need to at least terminate your colors to get them to work properly on this monitor all right that's a pretty quick overview on this BVM the next thing we're going to do is run through a couple of checks on it now before I even power it on I want to show you the inside of the monitor and the easiest way to do that is to go in through the top it's really easy to access so let's do that now this is again really easy to get inside and look at the majority of the monitor really quickly there are four Phillips head screws on each corner there's one that you can remove and then you just slide the top back a little bit and pull it up one of the first things we notice here right off the bat is this one was serviced before it on 421 in 2005 a new CRT tube was installed and thankfully this note was left for us and so what you see down here is a new tube that has been installed and it looks pretty good the issue however with this one is that there are a bunch of scuffs and scratches in the screen layer right there it's difficult to see from this angle but it's right here there's a big one and that's not cleanable what we need to do is remove the anti-glare layer on here and protective layer so we can expose that that's what we're going to do but just a quick look inside this bvm you can see our deflection board down in there and then our other power supply and over here is the bay where all our input cards would go we've got some flyback breakout controls over here here's our deflection yoke and there's our nice convergence adjustment deal down there where we can do additional convergence adjustments see how it's got that copper winding around there that's pretty nice should be able to do some stuff through the service menu with this monitor and then there's the pa board over here and so now what i'd like to do is just we're going to remove this it's another process of removing philips head screws we've got four on here and then what we'll eventually be able to do is pull the whole screen out and we'll expose the tube behind it the screws have been removed let's see if we can get this just kind of pull it evenly towards you a little bit to begin with and we'll come off and then you can flip it around here like this because it on this bvm there's a connection a few connections that are just right over here on this side the other side has no connections thankfully so it's really easy to move it out and you don't even have to remove it any more than what we've just done but if you look over here at this tube it's obviously got the protective layer on it and again there's there's probably half a dozen little nicks in it that i can feel and i'm sure the owner he would rather have it clean and looking really nice than have this little layer just to keep protecting it because that that kind of a gash in there will really be distracting if you're looking at it so let's let's go ahead now and remove this all right there's a look at that line where you can tell that the screen protector is there let's uh get out a nice blade here yeah that's my uh this is my crocodile done d knife and my terrible uh australian accent so i'm looking for a spot where this is come down a little bit just so i could start it kind of get under that oh yeah that's going to be nice noise right there that's a knife okay the idea is to slowly work this out a little bit you don't want to try to break it and put pressure against the actual layer not do not put pressure as much as you know try to avoid putting pressure on the glass and the other thing is is you want to try to get as much of the adhesive layer with it so yeah if you can get it to go in one solid swoop motion and keep that adhesive stuff stuck to the plastic you're going to be much better and one of my best urr but voices is to try to not bend it like flatten it you can bend it and roll it like this but try not to flatten it the next thing i'm going to do is i'm going to actually grab that sucker with some pliers and that way i can maybe be a little bit more stable and get it out of there well maybe not nothing like your hands right so you could use a heat gun on here if you wanted to but i think you're risking having some of that adhesive layer stick to your tube which you don't want to do i mean you don't want to add extra time to your job but you can take a lot of that stuff with it boom like that and see i did a no-no and i pulled it off too fast because check it out down here at the bottom this is exactly what i'm talking about but thankfully it's down here in the bottom so i can get it off pretty quickly and easily but if you don't do it properly you'll end up with stuff like this left behind which is just layers of the glue and adhesion that have stuck and so i'll get to scrape and clean this off but you definitely don't want to have any of this left on the majority of your tube because that can be a nightmare to clean off and then you can actually end up scratching the glass i'm going to go ahead and get this little remnant off here and then i'll clean the tube and we'll get it placed back together and turned on pretty easily i was able to peel off that remainder of the screen layer but it does leave behind a good example of the residue that you can get stuck again on your tube that you don't want there and if you have that again in the middle of the tube it's a real pain in the neck to get it off let's go ahead with our favorite screen cleaner that's the ammonia free world's best sprayway cleaner i don't have any type of a sponsorship with this product it's just one i love to use since there's no screen layer on here you can get in here and just clean your tube directly without having to worry about any damage to the glass because this is safe on any glass surface and also it it just smells so nice trust me if you use this stuff once you'll love it it smells so much better than really anything else before we put this bezel back i will clean around this area a little bit just to make sure there's nothing sticking there we're kind of ready to put the bezel back in place and then finally turn this monitor on now we're ready to turn this on and work our way through it a little bit and i'll show you some interesting features of this particular bvm just note that to get to the point where we are now i have my red standby light and all i did to do that was plug in my main power in the back of the monitor and then turn on the main power switch right here to the next to the ac and that will get you into this state where we have our standby light illuminated and all we have to do now is press the power button on the front here and then you'll hear the crt tube engage and there goes the degausser and then our power button down here will eventually illuminate in green if we have good power in our bvm now just relax these things do take a second to power up and turn on all right so here's our menu we just press the menu button and don't be surprised that the menu jumps up and down like that it's a 240p image in 480i so it's flickering back and forth sometimes it'll sit still but on bvms it's very common for it to flicker and see look now it's sitting still it might flicker again a lot of these monitors need a good 20 minutes to warm up before you can really start judging them as far as like performance but i do want to show you some really quick things here on this menu first off if we go down to our status and we go to page 2 on this one it'll give us some of our more important information of course bvm 14 f5u serial number 2000 oh man this is a 08 this might be like the eighth one off the assembly line and then look at the hours here we have 120,661 hours uh that is why you have a new tube in here i guarantee it there's no way that tube that was originally in here would have lasted nearly this long going into that status menu is how you check the operation time on these you can also see what kind of software you have and if you want to try to do a firmware update you that's what the memory cards are for for settings and updates if we go down in here into maintenance that's where you have to enter your password and that's where you can get into the deeper menu but you do not have to do that to set up your inputs you want to go to setup input configuration and it will tell you what your input is you know if you want to change the input in here and what the format is on the input for examples here's what we have we have the buildouts to do composite component and sdi and channel one and you can also switch this to component beta cam stmp or rgb and then that's how you would for example set your channel to input uh rgb on there and let's before we do that i want to show you one interesting thing about these monitors and that is the built-in test patterns that comes with the controllers on this monitor and it will be on any monitor that if you have the controller for it even if it's an external controller these will be in there so first off let's go zero nine uh eight i think that's it zero nine nine is nothing zero nine eight so you type in zero nine eight and that will take you to this pattern of just you know it's like a cross hatch pattern almost where it's just a grid and obviously you can check you know how the screen looks based on this and the good thing is is this has all kinds of different patterns here's a dot pattern that's perfect for checking convergence and your beam alignment and if we keep going down we have a secondary convergence check nine six is a second uh hatch pattern nine five is a hatch pattern nine four is a gray scale pattern and then ultimately nine three is a white pattern and you say well what's a big deal about white the good thing about pulling up this white screen is you can use this to check to see your colors are all still prevalent on your tube for example let me show you if i push the red and the green it shows me just the blue and then if i push and have the green deluminated that means it's just showing green and then red that way you can test to make sure every color is working on here and the cool thing about it is you do not have to have anything you don't have to have a single device to be able to do this other than the monitor and a controller for the monitor now this is going to be a standard configuration if you're using rgb you notice i've got green blue red and external sync down here and then that is an rgb adapter going into this these bvms aren't as picky about sync so you don't have to worry about having a c-sync or composite sync it should take either now what i'm going to do is i'm going to spin this around now let's set up for example we'll put it on channel 2 and let's set up this input to register for rgb and again to do that we're going to go first down in the menu to set up input configuration click format component rgb and then slot number now remember how i told you there are two cards in this slot number two is our external card but if we go over here slot number six that's our internal card okay so let's do slot number six now the reason it looks all crazy is we have one thing left to do that's to go over here and turn on our sync and boom we have a picture now just remember this does have a shift button and it needs to be shifted to get to your sync that's very important but other than that that's how we set it up now every time you turn this monitor on and you select input number two it's going to go into that rgb mode and you'll have to program it actually to keep the sync on there so let's try to do that if that's possible sync mode right here external sync now every time let's try that channel two now is set every time to go in and change over to external sync and rgb all right real quickly i'll show you some test patterns so you can see how this screen really really can get a great beautiful image on it i mean as far as like convergence geometry and especially since it's got this new tube in it it's really working well and it's got you know a very good picture on all places on the screen highly adjustable and our aspect ratio looks really good too and it's just account nice or team you looks in 800 lines of 240p resolution all right that's going to finish things up on this look at the bvm 14f5 view the rest of this video i will put some gameplay footage just so you can get an idea of what that 240p really looks like but i can tell you and one of these that has a good tube and it's working well it's going to look very very good and again this monitor should be valued higher than the 14m for you which has the same level line count yet it doesn't have all the controls and basically the heavy duty build out that this one does this bvm does have a larger footprint than the pvm's in the same size it's quite a bit wider and then longer i mean it's like three or four inches longer and it weighs a heck of a lot more because it's pretty much entirely made of metal with a with exception to the bezel and this frame piece up top thanks again for watching everybody and i'll see you all next time with some more retro content