 But now we're going to do the legs. They look kind of complicated, but they're really not. We're going to have eight pieces of the length that's on the plans, and then we're going to do what I'm going to talk about here. We're going to cut a tenon on the bottom of all eight of those. We're going to have another eight pieces that are five inches long, and we're going to cut a tenon on the bottom of those. So I have sixteen boards. What I'm going to do is bind them together four at a time so that I can cut that tenon by running it over the table saw blade. The table saw blade has been set precisely one and a quarter inches tall. I do that by using a one, two, three block, the one inch part of it, and then a quarter inch little measuring bar. So that gives you a pretty accurate feel for the height. So I just set it up like this with a one inch and with a quarter of an inch, and then try to find the apex of that. And let's see, if I wanted anything, I would want it to be slightly under so that this would be slightly too big, and then I can always sand that down. If I'd slightly over cut it and then this tenon was too small, I can't add wood back. So that's always the mistake you want to make, but I'm going to try to cut it as accurately as I can. You've got to find the apex of where that is the highest. I think that's going to be really, really, really close. All right, so I've got that set one and a quarter inches high, and I have measured in two inches. So when I cut out this part here and then cut out this part here, I will have a tenon that's two inches by, this is four and a quarter total. So one and a quarter, one and a quarter is two and a half, so that will leave one and three quarters in the middle. So that's what we're doing. I'll show you some of it. I'm not going to bother you with all of it. I decided to take these rough cut lengths first. I've got 16 of them, and they're all more than enough length, and then we're going to cut them after we do the tenons. We're going to cut them to size because if something went wrong here, then I would have the ability to cut the tenons again because I've got extra length. If I cut them to exact length and then something went wrong, then I'm done. I've got to do all new pieces. So it makes sense sometimes to not do your final length cuts until you've done some other procedures. Generally when you're doing woodworking, don't cut profiles and stuff too early in the process because you may want to have nice square edges for things, so you would never want to round over something early in the process. You'd stay that to the very end. All right, so that's what we're going to do. I've got my cross cut sled here. There's another video available in my channel on YouTube showing the building of this cross cut sled and using the William Ng five-cut method to measure if this back fence has been set to perfectly 90 degrees. You know we're going to be perfect, but for all practical purposes it's perfect. The holes, you'd have to see what the holes are for by watching that video on building that sled. If you don't have a cross cut sled yet in your garage, that's fine. You can use the miter gauge that came with your table saw. You'd probably just want to get a really stable fence on it though. In this case, I've got two, three-quarter inch, so I've got an inch and a half of stability on that, and then I would push my work piece across that. It's just that when you do build yourself a sled, you want to use that, but I could have used just the miter bar. Now, a couple of things I thought of while I was cutting that. The reason for eight of them that would be five inches long, I don't want to be cutting two inches into a five-inch piece, leaving only three inches to hang on to. For me, that gets me inside of my safety zone. I don't want to be holding on to three inches here to cut two inches, so cut these first and then cut it to five inches in length. That's the one thing. The other thing is, I'm using a 24-tooth rip blade on here, and that has a flat profile on the top of it. If you have one saw blade and it's a combination blade or it's an 80-tooth plywood blade, then what's going to happen is you're going to get ragged edges. That's all right. Don't go buy a whole new blade just for this build, but you will eventually want to add a flat top rip blade to your collection so that when you're doing joinery and you're cutting tenons like this, you'll get a nice flat top. The way these go together is you'll have the big long ones here with the tenon on it are going to go on the outside. We're going to glue two of these where all of these tenons are lined up, and then we're going to come in four and a quarter inches, and we're going to glue two of these leaving a four and a quarter inch span right here. So long board, then the components are the pieces, and then the other long outside board. So when we glue it up this way, and it's going to have the mortise, it's going to have the tenon, and it's automatically going to create the tenon on the top, just based on the size of the piece of wood. Alright, so the secret here is to put these pieces onto this piece and glue it, and then have this be four and a quarter inches, and then span by the outside. So that's what we're after. Now here's my one recommendation. This is a lot of gluing and a lot of trying to line up and stuff, and so whenever I'm doing a glue-up that involves a multitude of parts, maybe in my workbench here each half had six boards in it. So when you try to glue up something that's six boards wide, or in this case four boards wide with a couple of pieces, things can slip around, you can have difficulty getting it lined up, you think you're all lined up, you're putting on your clamps, there's a lot of moving pieces. The way to deal with that problem is don't do the entire glue-up all at once. So what I did yesterday was I just glued one of these little pieces, and one of these pieces on top of one board, and I stopped right there. Then I did another one. So just glue up two pieces, two layers at a time, let it dry overnight. Now I can come back, and all I'm trying to do when I put these together is simply one glue job in between. And so now this other stuff isn't going to move around, and this is much, much easier to do. So my recommendation would be to, you know, it may take an extra day or two, but do your glue-ups in sections instead of trying to glue up all four pieces all at once. So that's some advice from small workshop guy. I do, when I'm doing this, I do use some salt, in other words I put my tight bond two in this case. This is, if you, we're going to have this outside a lot, you might want to use tight bond three. It's more designed to be okay outdoors, but if it's primarily an indoor pop-up workbench, which mine is, and it's not going to be in the rain or anything, then I'm just going to use tight bond two. And what else? I just put the tight bond on, I spread it around my hands, I don't worry about trying to use sticks or brushes or all sorts of fancy things to keep it off your hands. My feeling is when you spread that glue around with your fingers, you have much better tactile feeling and you can tell when the edges are too dry and then you just keep rubbing more glue around to get those edges wetter. So just use your hands. The other tip that I use when I'm trying to line things up, if I've got something and I want them to be lined up this way, then I just put a board in a vice. Now you don't have your workbench yet. You can do this later after you've built your pop-up workbench, but I just put a board in a vice so I can get it up against there and keep things more lined up in that direction. All right, so I'm going to get a little glue up here. I've got a wet rag, I've got a dry rag, I'm going to get stuff on my hands and then take it off of my hands. So in other words, once you get the glue spread around, do two things. Put this back down and wipe it. It's called wiping the baby's butt. That's from Next Level Carpenter. That way I remember it. You would never change the baby's diapers, you know, without wiping the baby's butt before you put him away. And the same thing is true here. Don't pull this up and then do a whole glue job and set it down with a top up and a loose ripping around and then pick it up and do some more because you'll end up messing up all of the openings and you'll be cutting stuff off and it'll rag it pretty quick. Close it every time, wipe it every time with your wet rag and keep it nice and clean. Ah, let's see, secondly, to make it work better, keep it full. This works much easier when you've filled it up. So I've got the large bottles and every time I get about a third of the way down, I fill it back up. All right, so get it, you want to make sure when you're gluing that you're getting right up to the edges and then you're going to clamp that to, so this, to make sure the edges form a nice tight bond through your clamps. Again, with your fingers, you can feel where the wet is and where the dry is, so just keep spreading stuff around until it feels nice and wet everywhere. That way you don't have to use too much glue and you won't get as much squeeze out. So, you know, you don't want to get your bottle all gluey, so wipe your hands off before you do the next section. Go around the outside edges with a nice beam, go around the middle a few times. You can always come back and put more, it's pretty difficult to take it off. Now, I just put that down there, I'm going to set this down, pull the lid down, and wipe the baby's butt. Do never put down your glue bottle until you've cleaned it up. Alright, so you can start rubbing this toward the middle and then you can get right on the edges and you can feel where the, this is a good time to be able to wipe up if you went over the edge and got on to the outside. It's an easy wipe up. Generally, you want to be careful with excessive glue and wiping with a wet rag because if that wet rag gets all gluey, then you really, what you're doing is just spreading glue on to the edges where you don't want it. So, I want to make sure all these edges are nice and wet and well-covered and then feel if I've got good coverage in the middle. I don't want any great big globs anywhere. I want it all kind of spread out, so that works cool. Wipe my hand off and get these two glued together. Here's the beauty of having this mat, the gluing mat, is I don't have to worry about glue now getting on that mat. I got a little misalignment here, but that's okay. I'll straighten it out with chisels, so get it lined up as best I can. Probably more important to have the ends lined up here. Could have put some salt on there. Salt would keep it from moving around as much. I got enough surface here, that's not much of a problem. And then, here's when you're doing any kind of a glue up in your woodworking. Make sure you have a million of these little clamps and a million of these somewhat larger clamps. Many of your glue ups are just going to involve small things of this nature. Start on an end. Don't apply a lot of pressure, just enough to get it started. If you pry too much, it'll pull it up or down. And then, when you go to the next one, put the handle on the other side. I've got a whole video about how to make all these clamps slide easier. You might want to see that, and I've got some videos on keeping clamps clean. So, alternate. Try to go over a few inches. Now, there's nothing being glued here, so I don't need any here. I normally wouldn't do this big of a span, but in this case, there's nothing here to glue, so I'm just trying to go there. Again, do not over-tighten. So, you just continue that process, alternating on both sides, getting it just tightened down just a little bit. I'm starting to get some squeeze out there. And then, I come back on this side and squeeze everything down nice and tight and kind of wipe the bottom, if that's the process I want to use. I have a better process, recommended process, but I don't think right now I have any wood chips, so I'll have to look at my barrel. Instead of wiping this, you might come in here with sawdust. And if I take this one, it's bulging out like this, a little bead, and that's about the right amount. I want something to squeeze out, but I don't want excessive, so this is about perfect. As I tighten up more, this will squeeze out a bit more. And then, come in with some sawdust and rub all of that. I'll tend to ball up that glue and pick it all up without spreading it all over the place. So, next level carpenter says, and he's my guru for a lot of things, he says that once you use the sawdust trick for cleaning up glue, you'll never go back, it'll be your lifetime habit. So, give it a try, see what you think. Getting this glue off of plywood can be problematic. Here's another tip. Think about the components that you're doing and the fact that you're going to get glue on them, and you want the easiest way possible to get that cleaned up. This is four and a quarter wide. How about making it four and a half inches wide, all of them. Do your glue ups and then pass it. If you have, this is assuming you have a jointer or a thickness planer, and then pass it over the jointer or the thickness planer and take off another quarter of an inch, I guess eighth of an inch on each side. So, four and a quarter, make it four and a half, that's an extra quarter of an inch. Shave off an eighth of an inch on each side. You'll be down to your four and a quarter, and you will have had the easiest way to get all the glue off, because glue will show up under whatever varnish or polyurethane you're going to put on it. So, using that method, there is no glue. You've shaved it all off using your power tools. Alright, but that requires thinking ahead. Generally, and I didn't do this on these plans, but I didn't want to bother you with that.