 Now we're going to get started on the inside of this monitor. Again, we're working on the Tony PVM 20L5. And the first thing we need to do when we work inside the monitor is get the shell off. That way we can get inside of the circuit boards and the other important areas of the monitor that we're going to be servicing and adjusting. Now, when you originally look at the side of this monitor, you'll notice there are some extra screws that will not be removed to get the shell off. What we're going to remove to get the shell off on this is the three screws on the larger piece of metal on each side. And then there are four screws in the back of the PVM on the plastic that are holding that black or the screws are black, but they're holding that board and the other things on the back in place. You don't have to take off these plate guards or you really don't even have to remove your boards if you're careful enough. But once you get those screws out, you should just be able to get behind the monitor and slip the shell off, slowly pulling it back towards you, just like any other PVM. It's pretty standard right there. So that's how you get it open. And one of the first things to notice on this PVM is how compact it is. Now, this is the first time I've opened this one, maybe not the very first time, but it's never the first time I've opened it to be serviced. I might have just opened it to check and make sure there wasn't anything damaged initially. But it still had cobwebs and some large amount of dust built up in it. And again, this one was sold new to a local video editor who rarely used it and then put it in storage and then I got it from him. So never been serviced inside. It's never really needed servicing to this point. So it's just a really good shape, but still pretty dirty inside and needs some cleaning. You can really see some cobwebs down here in this clump of wires over here just under the yoke assembly and right above that heat sink plate. So just a lot of things actually inside this monitor. This is one of the most compact and cramped 20 inch PVMs or really probably altogether broadcast level monitors you work on. So when you work on a 20 inch BVM, you're going to have a lot more room in there. There's a lot bigger. So this one's really cramped. There's a lot of boards hanging on top of each other. A lot of wires connecting the boards together. And the first board we're working on is going to be this board over on the right hand side of the monitor if you're looking at the back of it. It's got a ton of capacitors in it and a couple connection points. There are some screws holding it onto this plastic here. So just make sure that you don't torque those screws too hard. You could crack that plastic. Again, all the plastic in this PVM tends to be pretty brittle. So it's still workable, but it's very brittle. So you have to be very careful when you're working it. So this is the board we're working on first. Again, this cap kit I got came directly. Look, this one came directly from Save on Pat. At least the plan for it did. Now, I did replace a couple of different capacitors with the higher quality capacitors that I use. But the kit design was from him. So that's where I got the actual layout for it, plus his recommendations for upgrade kit parts. So this kit is available on eBay. And it might be something to definitely use if you have any troubles with your PVM. But it's kind of an odd kit. And I'll talk a little bit more about that as we go through this repair. Some of the odds and weirder things better on it. But this board was like a mini version of a power supply unit. It looked to have a lot of the power supply parts on it. So maybe that's even what its ultimate design is, is to be like a breakout board for the power. But this one, pretty easy to recap. The caps were in there. And the thing that Sony did do was they used extremely high quality capacitors, especially on these 20L-5s. So that's why if you get in there and you look at the capacitors, you'll notice a lot of them are metal topped. And I mean, they're really, really high-end versions of capacitors. So a lot of times, even nowadays, if the monitor doesn't have a lot of use, a lot of these capacitors will still be good. So these are the removed spots on the board where the capacitors go. And now I'm gonna go in and heat up my iron. And then we're gonna replace the capacitors in here that are recommended by the Save On Pat cap kit. Now, if you're really serious about getting in here and replacing every capacitor in your PVM, just note that this one will be a colossal task. And it's definitely something I would not recommend for anybody who's on any kind of like a novice level. I'll give you my thoughts towards the end of this, more on that, on how difficult it was for this particular cap kit and to actually go in and replace all the caps on this particular PVM and do serious repairs. It's really difficult. There's a lot of the size on this. Everything's compacted down smaller. The components are practically right on top of each other. There's very little room to get in and out in between things. And this was actually one of the boards that was easier to work around. The later boards, I'm just gonna show them to you, they were actually really difficult to get in and work on. But the cap kit, you know, it's pretty simple, showing you how I like to replace caps where I'd remove them all first and then I come in afterwards and then sometimes I'll tack them into place, usually with flux and some nice solder. And then after I tack them into place and snip the legs down, I come over it and I reflow the solder to make sure the connection is nice. And then we'll of course clean these areas up with some alcohol after all this. But I wanted to show you the majority of the capacitor replacement on this board since it was easier to work around. And since primarily the other boards were really just too compacted and too difficult to work around and get a lot of good footage to work in. So this was really the best board to do all this. But it's always good. You see what I'm doing here? I actually had one of the capacitors I put in was the wrong value. I put the wrong cap in one of the places right there and I caught myself after I did a quick check after what I'd done and found that cap. So even, you know, when to make sure you're paying extra close attention and don't accidentally do that and then not catch it and then you'll have a big problem if you turn the monitor on or put it back together with possibly the wrong capacitor in one of the places that you replaced it. So it's always a great idea to go in and double and triple check the capacitor changes. You know, make sure that they're all pointed. The negative side is on the right negative position and then everything else is in the right spots. So that's that one board and with it out of the way we're gonna work on getting the next board out which ultimately is gonna be the neck board and the chassis and the chassis is obviously behind this video input card here with all our different inputs, the master input board that is attached to the PVM. So that board doesn't actually have any, that doesn't actually have any, you know, different parts in it that we're gonna be working on. Now, this is the discharge method. I wanted everybody to see that warning. Do not try this discharge method at home, okay? This is the Sony recommended discharge method and I only did this sometimes when the monitor is in really good condition I could inspect that anode cap and cable but this is how you're supposed to discharge it according to Sony's manual which just means working it around till you actually get it unhooked from the back of the CRT tube there, get it unclipped and then after you finally get it unclipped make sure you don't touch any of that metal but you tap that metal part to the main chassis really anywhere. I did the grounding plate on the back of the CRT and that's all you do. Now I'm not gonna go up next to that tube spot so I'm not actually gonna, I mean I wouldn't be going near it but you should discharge that too with a discharge tool after you've done what I just did. The reason behind doing it in that method that I just showed you is you're not gonna damage the back of the tube by scraping it with a screwdriver or anything. That apparently was a problem back in the day where two texts that were untrained would often go in and scrape that tube too hard and actually damage it. So that's something to take into consideration. Next when you're removing the neck board you notice there was a piece of plastic that tends to hold this neck board into place. That is gonna be so brittle that from the heat of being on the CRT gun it's gonna most likely shatter. Mine just shatters into pieces just by pretty much touching it. Don't worry about that. You can get some silicone and reapply that or if you're not moving the monitor it'll still sit nice and snug on the neck board without that piece of plastic holding it. But that's where the plastic went. And the next thing I'm doing is I'm actually disconnecting this portion of the plastic where there's two cables that come in from the back of the flyback. Those cables come into the neck board and you can see how that's got a weird proprietary grip or plastic connector on there. So that way you can get it out of the way and have nothing connected to it at all while you're going through and working on that neck board. You can have it isolated by itself which is definitely needed. Now I'm trying to get the chassis out and that cannot be done without removing this board right above my head where you normally have your cards, your additional cards. It's just a couple of screws that hold the whole plastic housing in place and then you can kind of just lift it and set it out to the side. And then there are two screws on the chassis. One is usually behind the flyback. So make sure you get that one. And there's one right at the back here where this little white piece of plastic is under my hand. And that's all that's holding it in there. So make sure you just get that out and get all the cables out of the way as best as possible. Because I've been, look at that. That is a ton of cabling probably twice as much as like a 20M2 or I mean an M series or like another medical monitor. It's probably got twice as much cabling inside it. So again, very small and the neck board looks pretty standard but the chassis is very small. Now here's one of the parts in the kit. And this kind of confused me, okay? Then one of the parts in the kit was this attached to this heat sink, this IC right here. And I checked the parts numbers on it and it was exactly the same. And for some reason Pat only recommended changing the first one. Now there's one of these for each color, right? So there's one, two, three. So there's gonna be three of these total. The problem is, is those heat sinks are so close together I have no idea how anybody would be able to change the other two if you had an issue with the other two back ones. If one of those burn out, I don't know how you change them without taking the whole board apart practically and actually removing the heat sinks most likely to get to the other part. And since the parts were exactly the same, take caution and you don't actually have to change them if you don't want to, if there's not an issue with these parts because again the part number is exactly the same. And the second reason I say this as I look on the back of this board and this was not clear in the instructions for the cap kit. There's actually a little diode I believe attached on the bottom of each one of these ICs. Every single one of them has it jumpered over into the same spot with some silicone on there. So that really wasn't clear either. And again, I don't really see the point to changing this part particularly here just this single one when it has three of them on the board. And again, it's not an upgrade part particularly there because it was the same exact part numbers on the front of that board description right there. So just note that there are some parts recommended, two parts recommended to change on that and they're pretty much a similar just like that. So that's what you get in that kit. If you go look at the kit some more you're gonna get in here and it's just got sporadic capacitors that are listed to replace in here. And that's fine, but you have again this is so difficult to get in and work around here just because of all the metal shielding and the actual design of how tightly close and all the heat sinks. I mean, they pretty much cover up nearly every single capacitor. It's just like there's extra heat sinks over top of them. Things are compacted all together. Look at this cluster of capacitors up here on the other side of this. You've also got other components attached to the outside of this large shielding to dissipate more heat. So it's really a difficult design. And the only way I'd really, I'd only recommend this kind of stuff again for really extremely highly level of expertise and experience with electronics repair to get in here and do this. One of the other things was that that's another little part that was included in the kit. And I was trying to figure out why it's this one right here, this three-pronged IC. And again, same exact part number as the replacement part. I didn't see a single difference on the replacement part. It's not as if it was a better part. My guess is this board sits or this part of the heat sink sits on an exterior part where there's some ground cables that come across another cabling that comes through here. And you may get an opportunity to have a short between these legs and then you'll probably blow out this part. And that's most likely what I think would be the reason this was in the kit in case that happens maybe more often than not, this part fails. So if you have an issue with your PVM, that might be one of the parts to look at replacing. And that was actually an easier part that was on the outside of the board, one of the easier parts out of all of them. But when you get that kit, you also need to know that you're not just getting the parts. You have to actually go in and buy some more thermal paste, some nice thermal paste to put in between those components. If you do change, I mean to put that between that and the heat sink, a little bit of that on there, which I didn't show any of that. I just showed the single board being done. But now I've got everything put back together. And it's again, a long and tedious process that I just didn't show you all the way through it. It was exact opposite of taking it apart, just put it all back together, making sure every one of those cables is connected. And there were dozens of connections on this monitor. And then we're gonna go ahead now and do a firing up of the monitor or test run. And we'll see just initially, whether we can get power into it, what happens when we turn it on, what the screen looks like. And this is like one of those, the nerve wrecking moment. If you've finished repair, something that technically difficult and that precise of a machine, it always makes you nervous when you put it back together and you're actually getting to turn it back on. But thankfully everything worked out okay. And everything looks fine on here. So everything worked. That's really good. I just wanted to go through and show you the menu pulls up. This is honestly the very first time I did pull it and turn it on. So I didn't, I noticed I didn't have any edit cuts in there. That was, this is the first time after the capacitor replacement. So just at this point, we're gonna go in and work on running a lot of tests. And that's gonna be testing every input for analog video, as well as some of the digital input video inputs. And then we'll test the video card slot and just get a good overall idea of what condition we're in. But that's gonna all wait till the next video because that's gonna do it for today's episode. Today's episode was pretty much just about the chassis and the inside of the monitor and getting in there and working around giving you guys a good idea of what it looks like inside there. But again, this is not repair stuff that I'd recommend for people who are not highly trained and do not have a lot of experience working on specifically monitors like this. If you don't, if you get inside there and you're afraid to work on those boards, then it's probably a good idea to try to find somebody else that will do it for you. Because again, this monitor is becoming so rare and the fact that it does 480p and 720p and 1080i and 240p does all those and it just accepts so many great video inputs that it's still one of the most desirable broadcasts CRT monitors on the market. So again, let's look for that next time. I'll have that come in in just a couple of days that episode where we go through the calibration and you get a lot of, see a lot of the testing. I've got some really cool stuff already taking care of for that. But that's gonna do it for this episode. Please leave a like and let me know if you have any questions or comments below and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content.