 Hello people and welcome back to the channel. Today we are filming a video that has been highly requested. So much so that I've been nervous to make it. But that's okay because we are drafting our own pant pattern. So I'm going to go ahead and throw it out there that you never get it right on the first time. Disclaimer, yes this is how to draft your own pant pattern but we will have to make adjustments. You kind of always do based on your body type and measurements. What works for 2D doesn't always work for 3D but I'm excited to help you guys get there. So first there are a few things that you'll need and that's pattern paper or some kind of see-through tracing paper. If it's not see-through that's not a deal breaker. It's just easier. Next you'll need a measuring tape, some kind of long ruler. I mean 12 inches is fine but if you have a longer ruler that'd be awesome. Of course a pencil because we don't do nothing in marker here and then also optional a hip ruler. So I'll be doing everything in pencil and then outlining it with Sharpie so you guys can see what is going on. And now to get started there are some measurements you need to take. So first we'll start with our horizontal measurement. So you'll need your waist measurement which looks like this. Next you'll need your hip measurement which looks like this. To know what your hip normally sits at and I said this in my last video as well but right in the middle of like one butt cheek in the middle of that cheek is most likely where your hip is. It's just the widest part of your lower half. So go ahead and take down that measurement. You'll also need your thigh measurement, your knee measurement and your ankle measurement. So we do thigh knee and ankle just in case you want to do a slimmer fit pant or skinny jean versus a straight leg pant. Today we'll be doing more of a form fitting pant but if you want to do more of a straight leg pant all you have to do is take your thigh measurement and bring that all the way down. Slimming down just a little at the ankle. All right next we'll do some vertical measurements and that's from where you measured your waist to where you measured your hip. So waist to hip measurement which looks like this. Then you'll need your crotch depth which technically is like waist to crotch but how you get that is that you sit in a chair and you measure from your waist down to the bottom of your butt. That is your crotch depth measurement that we'll need. Next you'll measure down waist to thigh. Then also waist to knee and then waist to ankle and a pro tip for getting those last two is to use a mirror a full body mirror so that way you don't have to bend down and mess up the measurement by bending down. You can just put it at your waist, let the measurement tape hang, stand by a mirror and collect those measurements. So once you have all those measurements we are ready to start drafting. All right guys you just started drafting your pattern already have some things marked out but we'll go over them. What you want to do first is mark a straight line down your pattern. Be sure to do this in some because we will be adding seam allowance etc. So go ahead and draw a straight line and I'm doing this in sharpie so you guys will see it hopefully. And from this line we'll start adding measurements. So after you draw your straight line what you're going to do is go ahead and square off the top line. This will now be your waistline and you can mark it as such. And then now we'll be using our vertical measurements. So the pant I'm making today is for a friend. I'm going to go ahead and use the measurements I got for them. So you want to do your waist to hip measurement which for me is going to be eight inches down. Go down eight inches draw a little tick and then from there draw a straight line. This is why having a long ruler can be beneficial so you don't have to keep going keep inching the ruler forward as you draw. And then go ahead and mark that as your hip line. And then you want to take your crotch depth or like waist the crotch measurement and get that mine sits an inch below the hip line. So I'm going to go ahead and draw that straight line as well. And this is now your crotch line CL. And then you'll take your waist to thigh knee and ankle. Cool. So now we're going to start with actually our hip measurement. So take your hip measurement and divide it by four. For my person their hip measurement was 37. So divided by four that is nine and one fourth inches which is right here. And what you're going to want to do is also mark that measurement on your waistline. So we'll go up mark that here as well. So now you'll take your waist measurement and divide that by four as well. Her waist measurement was 28 divided by four that's seven. So what you'll do is take your ruler and from this point go this way and measure out seven. So for me that looks like this. And then also two we're going to want to add in. So let me go ahead. So you'll want to because you'll be doing this in pencil it'll be better for you. So what you'll do is mark that seven. But then what we're going to do is add an inch for the dart and that's going to be our new measurement. After you add an inch to your waist measurement that is your new position. And now we can connect the waistline to the hip line. I also want to jump in here really quick and let you guys know that I am actually using or the way I found out how to do this was from a video that I'll link down below. She has a really good technique for making a pant pattern which is really nice. But when I first did this video there was a lot I had to correct. So I'll be doing it a little differently than her but her video is amazing and that's what I'm getting all this information from as well. So if you don't understand the way I'm saying it feel free to check out her video as well because I think she did an excellent job though you'll definitely have to like adjust some fit issues after you create it. But hopefully with the new way I'm doing it for you guys you won't have to do that. So now we're going to focus on the crotch point but before we do that what you're going to want to do and you can do this in the beginning as well. I just kind of forgot to what you'll want to do is connect these two marks all the way down to the crotch line. And then next what we're going to do is take our hip measurement and divide it by four and basically with that new measurement what you're going to do is from your crotch line where this line meets you're going to go out that much. So for me that's 2.3 so it's going to be a little bit over 2 for me. So I'm going to go ahead and mark that out and what we're going to do is connect this point up to this line but you want to be sure you don't go too deep in so you have enough space and for my fellas as well like I would even go out yeah I would take that line out a half an inch more if you are male. So to connect this line you want to make sure you don't go deeper than from this point out you want to make sure you don't go deeper than an inch and a half so go ahead and mark that and then you can just start to free hand connect it up to the straight line too low perfect So once you have your crotch point what you want to do is take your ruler and find the midpoint of this the center of the crotch line so for me this is 11 and a half inches so the center would be 5 and a half I'll go ahead and mark that with my pencil first and then basically now what you want to do the whole way down is mark your center point on your trousers so you just want to make sure this line is straight you can even like square up your line with your ruler but we're going to draw this straight line all the way down So now your whole pattern should look something like this from your ankle line up you should just have a straight line that shows the center of your pattern which is how it will work and then now we'll add in the inch dart that we already put in but now we'll put it in place so now we have our center line of our pattern we can add in our dart the average dart goes down about four inches for me personally I like to do four and a half I feel like it gives you a nicer hug onto the body it's what I use for my personal pant pattern so I'm going to mark four and a half on my center front line and then also from the center I'm going to go ahead and mark an inch or half an inch on both sides to be an inch in total because that's what we added our dart to be and now we can move on to forming the rest of our pant so now that we have our center line drafting the rest of our pattern should be pretty easy so now this is where you can differ if you're doing a straight leg or wide leg pant versus more of a tapered fit pant this is going to be more of a skinny pant it won't be a skinny jean like tight but it will be more fitted to the actual measurements versus being straight leg if you wanted a straight leg pant you could put in your thigh measurement and then just go straight down from your thigh measurement coming in just a little bit at the ankle you're going to take your thigh measurement and for me and for who I'm making this for the thigh circumference was with 18 and a half so that divided by two is 9.25 so nine and a quarter so what I'll do is actually on my tape measure go ahead and find nine and a quarter which is that's nine and a half this is nine and a quarter go ahead and meet that with that line make an indent for the middle and then now you can use that indent as placement for your thigh measurement on your center line and you can mark that I'm going to mark my pencil first so nine and a quarter we have right here and lastly we have our ankle measurement mine was nine and a half so that divided by two is four and three quarters I'm going to first start by doing this in pencil and you guys should be already doing this in pencil and connecting each dot and then we'll smooth it out as we go and actually what you can do is go ahead and just connect your thigh line to your ankle line because this isn't far enough from where we needed to be so just go ahead and connect your thigh line to your ankle on this side so once you're done you should have a front pattern that looks something like this and now we're going to do something a little different and place a different sheet on top and go ahead and trace this original outline and you can do that in pencil I'll do it in dashed marker form so you guys can see it because this is going to help us with our back before we add our seam allowance to this part so first I want to make sure you transfer your waist hip your waist hip crotch thigh knee and ankle lines onto the new pattern or the new piece of pattern paper this is why having see-through paper is good so once you have these matching go ahead and trace out your front pattern you're gonna also want to mark the center so just uh just so we know it you don't have to draw the whole line down just mark what the center is and once you get that traced out now we can put this aside and continue working on our front so now on our front we're going to add seam allowance everywhere so I personally like to use half an inch seam allowance just because that is easier or easier for me to see on my sewing machine so at the bottom I'm gonna let my hem allowance be an inch and a half so let me go ahead and mark an inch and a half down and then another cool thing about having see-through papers when we fold up on that line fold the paper on this line and then what you're gonna do is mark up to the line you have cut out and just trace that all the way down so that way when you fold this on the inside you have enough fabric so we'll move this back and then trace those out and that is now your new hem with seam allowance included so now you are done with your front piece you can go ahead and cut it out all right so now we're going to start on the back which should be relatively easier because we have already traced out our front so now what I want you to do is take or mark the half mark between the center of the front panel and where you started your pattern cool so you'll go ahead and mark that half mark I'm gonna keep mine in pencil for now to keep things cleaner and what she has you do in the original video is take your crotch distance and move that up this way and move this line up by that distance for me that would be 2.3 but I've done this already for myself and I was too high so what I recommend that everyone do is just move this point up by an inch and a half because back pants are slanted to make sure you have enough room for the butt area and so when you sit down your pants don't slide down with you so I'll mark that and show it before you guys so you see it so this is an inch and a half up and you guys can do the same and now take your waist measurement from your front mine is 8 inches and from this line go ahead and slant down until you get to your point so from here so this will be my new waistline and now we're going to move on to the crotch point so next from your crotch point you're going to go out 2 inches and I'm going to mark that with pencil first and then you're going to go down by half an inch this is your new crotch line for your back panel and how we're going to connect it to the top we're going to use this center point as well and come out 2 inches to make sure our curve isn't too deep we're going to come out 2 inches from that point which is right here and then we're going to connect let me actually put that in sharpie so you guys can see we're going to connect these three lines in a curve so you want to make sure you get this part as smooth as possible mine is a little mine is a little stark but I'm also using a sharpie so it's going to be like that but you want to keep this line pretty smooth to close off the back pattern what we're going to do is add an inch to both sides of the front thigh knee and ankle measurements so from the thigh measurement from where our dashed line is from our tracing of our front we're going to add in an inch on this side and an inch on the opposite side as well and now we'll go ahead and connect those lines all the way around so what this does is include our seam allowance from our front pant pattern and also gives us a little give for our back pattern to make sure our seam stays in place in the original pattern tutorial she adds another seam allowance on top of this one you will not need that it was way too much the first time I did it so when you join your pant pattern she looks like this for now you won't have all these crazy lines because you'll be doing this in pencil so you can erase all this I'm almost tempted to retrace it but I don't want to waste any pattern paper I actually might have to slim this part off it seems a little too wide but now we're going to work on the dart before we finish to do that you're going to find the middle once again on your other top part of your back waistband and because it's slanted our dart will also be slanted so your average back dart is about five inches in I like to go down just a little deeper and five and a half your back dart will also be an inch as well so now we've added in our inch dart to put us back on a waist size so now that we've added an inch to all sides except for right here which is good because it factors in our half an inch seam allowance from our front but also we didn't add it here so when we sew this at half an inch it'll bring this in to where these actually meet which is really nice so now at the ankle we'll do the same thing for hemming allowance go ahead and draw out a straight line we'll fold the paper again onto this line and get our hem place your ruler right at that line and fold it over we'll go ahead and trace those seam allowance lines so we're able to mark them on the front effortlessly and that is your back pattern all done so now that you have your back piece all cut out what you want to do is take your front piece lay it on top and line up your knee lines hip lines cross on etc go ahead and line those bad boys up and because I was using sharpie I am just a smidgen off at the top and actually just at the top thank god hopefully because you're using pencil you're cutting on the right line so basically we want to make sure that when we line up our respective lines with oh god I can't line up our hip lines knee lines etc that our sides match up so that when we're sewing we can go ahead and just use our normal seam allowance so you want to make sure that your sides are trued so on my back pattern I actually forgot to add in a half inch seam allowance at the top so they do match up but as you can see my curve matches up pretty perfectly it's okay if these don't line up on this side because you do need more inner die space anyway but once you do that and everything matches up that is your front and back pattern done but in the next episode of this series I want to show you guys how to add pockets what kind of pockets you can add and also how to do the zipper fly this has been super fun it's definitely been a video that I've been avoiding just because I won't be there to help you guys with your fit issues and things like that but at least I can get you guys started somehow because with what we just done today you can do a mock-up pair of pants also for the waistband it would just be however thick you want your waistband to be whether you want an inch an inch and a half I think a standard is an inch and a half or two inches you just do that as the width and then the length of your waistband would be the length of your waist measurement or you can even go out an inch and a half more than your waist measurement just to be safe but yes stay tuned for the next episode thank you guys so much for six thousand subscribers that's crazy we just hit five thousand at the start of quarantine and we're already at six that means so much to me also be on a lookout for more sit down talk videos with you guys about how happily dress started what it means to me and how it's more of a lifestyle than anything thank you to everyone who watched my tarot video even if that's stuff that you're not into it's something that I really enjoy and being self-reflective I think is something that everyone can benefit from so thank you for those who have watched that video I'll see you guys in my next one see you guys later