 Hello everyone and welcome back to Retro Tech. Today we're going to take a closer look at the first monitor from yesterday's haul and that's this 20L2. It's pretty good monitor. High end it's a 600 TV line monitor. So I wanted to kind of just show you this thing's got some stuff on it. We're going to have to clean off and I'm sure I haven't even tried to plug it in and start it up yet. So maybe we'll do that just see what it looks like right off the bat and I'll show you around the monitor. So I'm just going to come on over here and we're going to pick up and I'll show you what we're working with. So we're going to use start down here with the Super Nintendo. Again this is that Super Nintendo mini or junior. I always try to use the original power supply whenever I can just to avoid any type of signal loss or quality problems. So I've just got the power plugged in and my SCART adapter plugged in. I'm not worried about my audio signal. So let's just take a look back here. 20L2 and some other things are important to look at when you're looking at one of these monitors. There's usually your model number when you're looking at it and then you know you got your date here of manufacturers. This is almost a 2005 date which is pretty much right when they stopped making these as far as I know. Other good things to look for on these monitors is this spot. Sometimes this will be open or it'll have an input card, a video card in here. The other one had an input card. I've got some other input cards but you always want to make sure you know if you get the and it has these sleeves in it you see one that's a little bit more of a bonus. You can actually sell these if you wanted to and probably bring about 25 bucks a piece maybe more. But down here on the input side you got in and out for what we could use as component or RGB. So we've got RGB set up and then there's the audio for it. This we're not going to use. It's like a serial parallel port I believe and an option audio card. So like when when you get your option board up here you won't actually have a audio hookup up here. The audio hookup for the speaker if you're going to use it is all the way over here in and out in and out. It's a self-terminating monitor so you don't have to put terminators on there but don't plug anything in or it won't be terminated and you'll get signal problems. If you're just going to leave something coming out of it you've got to make sure it's all terminated at some point. So composite composite s-video. That's it for the back but it's really dirty. It's just been sitting in some dust. Here's our cable for Super Nintendo. We're using the retro access cable and if you just you know plug it into your SCART adapter and then I'll plug this guy in the back of my Super Nintendo and then that's what it said. Oh it's already powered on. So I made this did this install and I'll put the LED light under the button there. I really like that. So you can't see it. It doesn't look like any different from the outside but that's just something to think about if you're going to add an LED because those don't have an LED indicator telling them when they're on. So let's go back around to the front now and see what happens. Okay so let's go ahead and turn this thing on and see what she does. You'll notice you just get a delay before that de-gaw sound and then this is all normal no sync. It's currently on line A and still under the normal de-gaw procedure. All right so the first thing to do is hit menu and uh just look at your formatting. Unfortunately you get this big sticker. I'll have to clean off and then all right let's get down here. So here's what's important. When you get to this fourth option this is just for this monitor maybe 20.052. It says format or it's this user configuration the fourth one down and it'll tell you RGB or component. Well it's in component mode right now and access that I have to actually get back out of the menu. I need to go over to the component selector RGB component hit menu. Now actually see here it says it's an RGB so that should be ready. Now we can turn it on and test it. All right so this is important too. Some of these do have this and some don't. There's a sync button that I just had to press there. So there you go. Hey that looks pretty good. Not too bad for sitting around there. We've obviously got some geometry issues a lot over here. The color looks good though. I don't see anything looking bad so it's all a good sign. If the corners are kind of wonky sometimes that can mean you might have capacitor problems on your deflection board but right now that one actually looks pretty good but it's again it's really dirty. I got marker on here. So what I'm going to do now is since I know it works and everything this actually has a different menu option than the other ones that I've done before with the calibration stuff. So what I'll do here is I'm going to go through and clean it. I'm going to get all these stickers off the way I did in the other video I just made about cleaning your monitor and clean the screen and then I'll take the back off and look inside and then I'll show when I'm doing the inside clean I'll show that again because that should be fine and it doesn't take as long as a screen clean but I'll show you too some of me getting this marker off because I mean it comes off even if I rub with my finger it hurts but it comes off no problem and I might have a little yeah see most of the time if there's stuff built up there you can just scratch and eventually it'll come off and that's what's happening with that stuff all this little stuff you just got to take your time sometimes it just something gets on there and sits there forever and sticks really good but I will do that and then we'll calibrate it and we'll get it all on film so this is just the first part sit back and let's get going all right now so we're back and this is the screen and this awful sticker it's one of the worst kinds that just falls apart as you take it apart the best thing to do is take your time with it and just scrape along just a little bit on the fingernail and try to get as much of that stuff off as possible that's all I did I didn't use any tools or anything I don't want to mess with that anymore let's try let's try to put some cleaner on it so I've got my handy dandy Windex here and I'm going to start with that on this silly thing and hopefully get rid of this lousy spot here say a couple paper towels so rather than you know I told you not to spray this directly on the screen but I'm going to break that rule a little bit by just putting my towel under it and kind of saturating that sticker area and then I'll hold this towel so that the cleaner won't go down you know let's stop there let it sit for a minute and maybe with this I'll go around and start rubbing these other areas so Windex takes this marker right off the screen no trouble whatsoever I've got to tell you Windex especially that just like the commercial Windex does wonderful things on here I've not had any problems with it because it's so nice it doesn't leave any streaks you don't want to get the cheap stuff does a good job right see it just eats up that sticker and the sticker residue thankfully so we're not even going to have to use any harsher we're not going to have to use any harsher chemicals which is good I mean that's that thing's starting to shine up and it's only one two bounty paper towels again I don't recommend just using the better stuff so you don't have to sit here and use more and more and more cheap paper towels but you can use whatever you want sometimes a good thing to use to clean is like an old t-shirt you don't use anymore or something in pillowcase maybe but beautiful let's get some get some marker over in this area still and oh man that screen is nice and clean so now we can look at you know calibrating and stuff so what I'm going to do now is we're going to finish cleaning off the front with some more Windex maybe a little alcohol on the tough spots but just take a look at that perfect not a single thing on that screen anymore let's back up a little bit it's a shiny and shiny glossy so I like to sometimes too take my fingers over I go over it again but just to see if I could feel anything any kind of that glue residue man that came off very nicely there's not a single speck on this screen which you always got to check for that if that's the hardest part about buying something online is making sure that there's nothing wrong with the screen too so if you're looking at you know buying one of these on ebay you got to make sure that all right from anywhere you got to make sure that the screen's nice and smooth if you're going to pay you know retail price for it you want that to be done right so let's get it cleaned up and we'll come back after that we are back here up top point now what we need to do up here this was where that sticker was and it stuck I've tried to use the Windex on this but it didn't work very well at all so I wanted to show you what did work better was the alcohol on the plastic so we figured that one out it just seems to flake right off much easier when it's on the other material so that's just something I want you to know if you get a plastic that's what's good to have multiple types of cleaners and it just goes right away with that but it was not doing that with the Windex whereas the Windex was doing way better on the glass surface so might be different on the metal again too so you never can be too sure until you try it a lot of this stuff isn't going to hurt anything so that part's good and clean I'll clean up the rest of the bezel and then we'll take the back of this thing off well now you can see the screen area and the bezel is nice and shiny and clean again I wanted to go ahead and take you around the pvm so you can take a closer look at some of the other areas again the screen screen the bezels clean the buttons areas all been cleaned mostly with Windex I'm going to come back here let's get the camera and go around and look at some more details on here so again I like this look there's not been any kind of pull-about racks on this monitor I've not seen that on a 20l too seen it on some other ones but not a 20l too so that's a cool thing to see something new every time with these I like the aesthetic look at this compared to the white one so anyway there's you know pretty much standard for this era the look of it cosmetically but look at this over here when you so I've got the shell here first off I'm taking that off next so just to see port things here two screws here Sony does a nice thing to put these little arrows on the place we need to remove the screws so two here one here one here Phillips head screws go around to the back one here one here same thing over here one here and here and then you got these three sneaky screws right here one two three those are tiny here and here and here and here okay so but look up here let's look up here with our buddy look at that grime and just filth and it gets worse over there so I can imagine there's a lot of dust and nastiness put in this thing so I guess we're gonna we're going to take the shell off obviously we're going to clean that by itself but before we even finished putting the shell we're gonna take it off let's see how it looks on the inside and see what kind of a clean job that's going to take so let's just set up we'll just take this shell right off here my friend can sit down here with the screws the shell just slides back on this model doesn't look too bad in the inside there and so let's go ahead Steve let's go looking back behind here now okay and as I thought we have a good amount of dust in this one even though this model is not that old we got a lot of dust so I'm going to go through here and dust it I'm going to use my special brushes brush off a lot of that that I'm going to come over here and polish this the crt gun the electron gun let's talk about some areas that I'm going to obviously avoid for right now I'm going to avoid the anode cap and everything else though looks pretty safe I mean I'm not again it's not running I'm not going to discharge it just to clean it because this monitor most likely self discharges but even if it doesn't it's I'm not going to be doing anything hazardous so there are some areas around the yoke now this one's covered in plastic but there are some areas that if you have just a regular crt or a different type of monitor there can be some exposed solder points here that that can carry electricity and could shock you so just stay away from that stay away from any of the solder points don't try to bump into them just try to dust everything that's going to be a lot of compressed air so I'm going to get back to that job compressed air brushed down and then I'll probably come back set up and then let you guys watch me polish that beautiful electron gun but that's going to be it for right now okay everyone we're back here I've pretty much cleaned up the outside very well I just used the same you know we just used the same technique we did again before where we dusted off everything you can kind of see how a lot of the dust is gone now and then I used my air compressor to blow it all out and the last thing I wanted to do over here was just kind of you know take now this is a nice this came from a sunglass rag so it's nice on glass surfaces doesn't scratch so I like to just rub off my electron gun here with it and make it shine and look pretty rather than that dull glass that we had when we started now let's take a closer look at that but while we got here man I want to show you some of the great features that you might want to consider when you're looking at these if you're looking at one of these monitors and you're saying what's the difference between this one and one of the older ones let me show you some stuff sony really made this one a lot more friendly as far as maintenance is concerned but the bad news was is this was made pretty much at the end of the life cycle this product so it's like they finally perfected the way the monitor should be put together for service right when they stopped servicing supporting and probably selling the monitors so let's look at some of the things that are different on here first take a look at this flyback it's actually tilted a certain way and I'll go closer here so you can maybe get a better look but it's tilted in such a way that you can make see we've still got our focus and then our screen brightness settings on the back of the flyback as usual but it's got a nice cut out here and it's nice and open where I could actually fit any almost any size Phillips head screwdriver in there while it's running and it'd be completely safe to make an adjustment without having to worry about anything you just you've got plenty of room to work around let's look at some other things too on here here's a potentiometer I'm I'm thinking this is uh going to adjust kind of like the screen centeredness maybe horizontal frequency to be technical some of the other things that I noticed they pretty much consolidated a lot of the capacitors back here on this board I don't know if you can see they've changed it over there's a lot of these huge ones I mean very large capacitors in this one so they're not as many but there are larger ones and I've gone through and visually inspected it and touched all of them at the top of them just to make sure none are bulging they're all in very good shape no signs of leakage the dust has all been removed let's look at some other things that make this one special so this was kind of cool and I just noticed this see this gray portions here these are actually plastic pieces that are on the other side and they just stabilize and hold this board in place because sometimes on the other monitors before this one this board is only connected by epoxy over here and so it moves around some that's really cool that they've got that so you could just like slip it out and pull that board out when you're doing that maintenance but that again is how they've consolidated a lot of this stuff let's look at the other side not much more different over here I just noticed this huge capacitor here 450 volt by 330 microfarer and it's the biggest one on the board but you can see a lot of that dust gone especially around that top and on the along the back of the CRT again you can take a quick look at the electron gun and how shiny it is it was covered in dirt and nastiness and now it looks beautiful so getting rid of that dust again it dust acts as an insulator on electronics and it's not good to let it sit there on components and actually cause them to heat up and fail so due to the excessive heat it's putting excessive wear and tear on those parts so I guess what we were going to say being my buddy here is that I really appreciate you spending this time looking at the first half of this video on the 20L2 so let's just recap we cleaned the screen bezel we tested it and then our second step was taking the shell off cleaning the inside inspecting the inside thoroughly and now the last two things that I see on here is to hook back up the super nintendo and we'll run a full calibration on the monitor and get it set and then we'll clean the shell and reassemble it totally and it'll be ready to be put into service and used normally so again I appreciate you spending time with us today and please like and subscribe if you haven't already and have a wonderful day