 Canadian work boot jeans I mean DNA not denim. Original work boot pattern used in the trenches. Can you get any sturdier than this well daintily finished boot? How you going? Welcome back to my channel Boot Lossophy. If this is your first time here my name is Tech and I come to you from Western Australia and I acknowledge the traditional custodians of the lands around where I live and work the wudger people. This is Weiberg's stitch down service boot so classic that it is trademarked. This pair is about a year old pre-loved and I bought them from my friend Eli who's on Instagram as the heritage tribute. Thanks Eli. If you could hold this in your hand look at it closely and wear it for a moment. You will see and feel that it is an extremely sturdy boot which I'll get into in the review and yet on screen in images even at a distance looking at it you'd be forgiven for dismissing this as a dainty a feat fashion forward boot. You'd be wrong. It may be built with the care and focused attention on the finishing like a better quality fashion boot but this has Weiberg's work boot DNA all over it. Let me try and convince you the Weiberg service boot or to be exact the stitch down service boot was created by founder of Weiberg Ed Weiberg in the 1930s as a work boot for miners. The pattern was based on a Canadian military boot and was reintroduced in this updated style by grandson Brett Weiberg. It has the classic 21st century service boot attributes. It has an over 5 inch shaft, a low block heel, open derby or derby style of lacing, basic four-piece pattern of vamp, two quarters and a one-piece backstay covering an external heel counter. This one is plain toe but you can get Weiberg service boots with a cap toe and with brogue cap toes. This one is in one of the classic makeups that they call essential on the 2030 last and in brown chrome excel and in this essentials collection you can also get black, colorate and natural chrome excel as well as in three shell quarter-ven colours. Then they also offer what is essentially the same boots in increasingly varied and exotic uppers from quality tanneries like Charles I've said from the UK, Mariam from Italy and Tochigi from Japan. Apart from varying between toe cap, broguing at the toe cap and plain toe, they also use both day night and Ridgeway souls on this 2030 last as well as on their Munson style 2040 last, their round toe 1035 last and their boxy sprung toe 310 last. A last by the way is the 3D mold around which the maker stretches the uppers around to create a boot with different shapes for different lasts. Having that many lasts for this boot can be mind-boggling to decide what last is good for you and Dave from the Vintage Future YouTube channel did a really good explanation of the different vibo lasts on his channel. I'll leave a link to the vibo website down below so that you can see the variety of service boots available for all tastes. Just using a different upper and outsole even on the same last can create a different look and feel to the same boot as you can see from my review up there of the same boot in oiled koolata leather and on the Ridgeway Soul. But before we go on let me just talk quickly about the brand Viberg in order to give you some context to what I'm about to tell you. Viberg is a Canadian company and as I said earlier founded in 1931 by Ed Viberg in Saskatchewan before moving to British Columbia in the West. Starting by making farmers work boots in the wheat and cereal cropping province of Saskatchewan, the move to British Columbia's logging country also meant the introduction of logging boots, boots for miners and from there boots for forest fire fighters. Still Viberg family owned today the third generation Brett Viberg has the reins. It was in fact Brett that recognized the need to transition into markets outside of work boots using their existing work boot construction methods into a line of dressier casual shoes. In the late 2000s his visits to Japan caused the realization of the Japanese Americana heritage trend and he regenerated the original farming work boot with an old Canadian military last into the Viberg stitch down service boot. It's not unfair to say that Viberg was the first and is now crowded space of American heritage style service boots and soon other brands and more recent director consumer brands followed. As for their work boots they still make them but clear in their marketing strategy the Viberg.com website only carry their casual everyday collections and their work boots are on a separate website altogether. So starting from a work boot DNA how are these everyday service boots made? As usual I'll start from the bottom and work my way up. The construction method is stitched down in which the uppers of the boots are sewn together, last it and on the last the bottom of the front half of the uppers are flanged outwards to stitch them down to the sole construction. You can watch my video explaining different different construction methods up there. In this double row stitch down one row stitches is sewn through the flared out uppers to the leather midsole and the second row stitches through the uppers and midsole as well and then through to the outsole. That outsole stitch continues past the flared out uppers on the midsole all the way into the heels. The heels themselves are glued and nailed to the five millimeter thick midsole. This is an extremely durable and water resistant form of construction also used by all the American Pacific Northwest work boot makers like Whites, Knicks, JK, Franks. But while the construction and even the hand-hardy materials used are the same the stitching on Viberg is done by a company that clearly is experienced in making sturdy boots in a very refined delicate dainty manner. Take a look at this photo of the difference in the stitching between these Vibergs and a pair of Knicks boots. The stitch density is precise and even and way higher in count and the precision of the consistent and straight lines of the stitching is obvious. That's not to say that the Knicks stitching is bad that's not to say that the Viberg stitching is better or more durable. All that says is how Viberg uses the same methods but applies dress shoe manufacturing attention to detail. Now Knicks isn't going to fail any faster Vibergs isn't any less robust but I know which one my brain will tell me to wear to a fancy event and which one my brain will tell me to go digging in the garden with. As I said the construction connects the uppers to the outsole through the veg-tanned thick leather midsole. The outsole is from English manufacturer Day Night with the ubiquitous studs each set in a shallow depression for grip and ease of knocking off dirt yet maintaining a low profile for dressiness. You will see Day Night on almost every brand's collections and it is grippy enough except under the worst or wettest conditions. The heel is stacked leather with a Day Night top left. Inside the boot between the insole and the midsole is now a layer of cork but sometimes in the past there was a hard foam. If you watch a YouTube video of the Division Road Viberg Factory Tour 2020 you will clearly see cork being applied yet on the Cobblers Plus channel you can see the foam being pulled out of a pair that's being resold. There are others if you're a patient and do a search you'll see at quite different times Cobblers finding cork and foam when they're being rebuilt. I know that in early 2021 Viberg put out a Facebook post saying that they were consciously starting to use all natural materials and there may have been a gradual change to cork which some of the Cobblers are yet to see since they're repairing older boots. I was actually accused of lying in an earlier review by a viewer something I have never done in a video. He was adamant that they used foam but I suspect his fact that he relied on was gained from watching an old video cemented by his self-confidence of his view as being the only truth. When I asked Viberg I was told cork and I was also told they use leather shanks which is the thin piece of stiff material placed inside bridging the gap between the heel and the ball of the foot providing arch support in that space as well as torsional rigidity. Above that filler and shank is a leather insoles sewn to the uppers inside and on top of that is a thick heel to arch leather sock liner with a little square of foam under the heel for comfort. The vamp is lined with leather but the shaft is unlined. The uppers are made from brown chrome excel. If you don't know and you probably do but I'll tell you if you don't know chrome excel is tanned by Horween Tanry in Chicago. Another multi-generation family-owned company started in 1905 and now in its fifth generation of Horween family ownership. The two flagship products are Shell Cordoven and chrome excel. Chrome excel is a combination tanned leather that is chrome tanned and then re-tanned with liquor from tree barks and then it's hot stuffed with oils in a famous 89 step process taking place over 28 days. The result is a leather with veg tanned malleable character restricts yet also with the supple and durable character of chrome tanning. Chrome excel fans will also quote the heavy pull-up effect that makes it almost a self-healing leather because you can use the heat and pressure of a thumb or a finger and polish up most of the scuffs. This is a pretty good example of chrome excel. Horween apparently tans the hides in two pieces front and back of the cow and I understand Vibeau buys the back pieces which are firmer and as in this example show no deep wrinkles or the dreaded loose grain. All creases showing on the vamp and the shaft from natural wear patterns are small fine very crystalline lines. The clicking or leather selection is excellent. The toe is structured again going by the Facebook post it is a leather toe puff as well as an external leather heel counter at the back covered by this one piece backstay. The unlined tongue is partially gusseted to above the second eyelet it's sort of almost to the third eyelet. The hardware in this classic model is bright brass and a good size allowing flat wax cotton laces to go through quite easily. All eyelets though eight of them no speed hooks so if you prefer speed hooks you're out of luck in this particular model. The stitching is phenomenal it's precise clean consistent again belying the workbook credentials of the maker and looking as fine as any English Northampton dress boot. Not only are there no QC issues in the stitching just for fun I took a pair of dividers to measure the gap between the double stitching on the uppers and the variation within less than one millimeter. This is the type of stitching I'd expect on a bespoke suit and that level of detail precision and fineness does not make a dainty boot. The chrome excel use is over two nearly three millimeters thick which is heavier than most. The all leather construction and fine but firm stitching all adds up to a 765 gram boot over three quarters of a kilogram which is not as heavy as some P&W boots but heavy enough and certainly heavier than the mid-range grandstones and oak streets. Do not be fooled by the look this is a sturdy quality boot. As for leather care look I'm not going to say too much I've dealt with chrome excel in my other videos a hundred times but if you haven't watched my chrome excel care method well you'll have to subscribe and catch up on my videos. One word Venetian shoe cream anyway keep the boot clean and dust free by brushing regularly condition when needed maybe two or three times a year with Venetian shoe cream in neutral but if it feels really dry then a coat of liquid Needsfoot oil can be used. Horween uses both products the Needsfoot oil and Venetian in finishing the hide. Chrome excel can be left after conditioning but you can also polish it up if you want and a good cream polish from Saphir or the less expensive related company Tarago. Again in neutral I personally don't like using colored products on chrome excel because I like the lightening patina to show through and talking about patina take a look at this pic showing how the same brown chrome excel lightens with the patina over time. The oldest is going from right to left. So now you'll want to know how Viberg's size be prepared to be confused if you're American if you're from Australia New Zealand Canada or the UK or from any Commonwealth country that's retained its UK-ness it's simple order true to size. I'm a UK seven and a half in average width and this is a seven and a half in Viberg's e-width and they fit me perfectly in the 2030 last. If you're American you deserve a longer explanation because I've heard confusing and yet correct things being said like go down a full size that's right but it's also not right at the same time. You see Viberg being from Canada a member of the Commonwealth uses UK sizing numbers. These are one number down from the US so I said I was a UK seven and a half that equates to a US sizing number as eight and a half see one number down from the US. Same actual size of course my feet don't shrink in UK made boots just that the UK calls a particular measurement one number and Americans call it another number and these are true to size. You know how people say of American boots oh they size large go down a half size from your true size the confusing thing is that many American makers make a size 8.5 boot and call it their size 8. It measures the same length they just called it a smaller number by a half. However some boot makers like Oak Street boot makers for one Christian Daniel I think Kaz will boot certainly they make their boots true to size meaning if you measure 8.5 then buy 8.5. All that means is that if you're American you should find out your true brand it measured size and then convert that to Viberg UK sizes by going one number down. I measure a US 8.5 on the Brannock device my Viberg size is thus 7.5 that's why Americans will say I'll take a full size down in your Vibergs which could confuse the crap out of Brits but then again they lost to us in the ashes and the cricket so they're easily confused. As for comfort the 2030 last is really comfortable for me first of all the construction with the leather and I'm assuming cork under my feet provides a good shock absorbing experience and the way the last comes quite narrow at the waist provides me with the supportive arch support. There are no build-up of leather pieces under the arch as you'd see in P&W work boots but the shape of the narrow waist leads to a pushing in of the uppers there which creates good support for me. There is at least a thumbs width in front of my toes and the ball of my feet are snug but not squeezed and even this almond toe shape which does push in the big toe on some people and for me it leaves me with really good wiggle room. I'm quite comfortable walking around these all day except the heavier chrome XL does rub against my ankle as the shaft is a good inch less than the normal six inches which I think would probably then you know cinch up better being because it's higher up the leg. Finally to face the elephant in the room when new these boots are 800 US dollars now that's nearly 1300 Aussie dollars they do go on sale now and then but that's what you're faced with. A pair of White's MP boots go for 700 US that's a hundred less. Nick's Americana is 630 I've referenced those P&W brands because I really don't think it's fair to compare these with say Oak Street trench boots or anything else in that sort of you know cheaper mid-range the build quality and materials is just quite different. So the most expensive out of their most comparable boots and the other P&W boots are usually hand bottomed and hand stitched while a lot of the Vibex service boot is handmade that gorgeous stitching is I don't think hand stitched. On the other hand as I made it abundantly clear these will last just as long as the whites or the mix these are not delicate despite the dressy fine finish. How does that add up to value? If you know the finishing you'd say the Nick's Americana is great value compared to these. If you do take note of the finishing you should I think add a premium for that finish and yes I created a debate with one of my community posts on YouTube about the value of Vibex with almost equally half saying that they were worth it and the other half saying it was all just marketing hype. The price is polarizing. As a management consultant though I can tell you that in sales the mantra is we approach a product with our heads and then we buy with our hearts. So true my head ticks off the material things that logic says yeah despite the careful finish these should sell at the same price as the MPs and the Nick's boots because they'll last just as long but my heart says damn it I want a pair of these at only a hundred more because they look so cool. Are they worth the price? You tell me what your heart says so that's it beautiful boot great boot a bit pricey finally made like a several suit tough like a work boot they used to make versatile because it's a casual boot but it can be worn smart as well as rugged. Tell me what you think in the comments below and of course don't forget to click on like and also if you haven't already please subscribe. Both really help my channel and will push up my videos out to more people who would like to learn about boots. If you click on like and subscribe it's practically a public service announcement. What's coming up next? I'm planning a really interesting interview with a podiatrist about boot fitting don't miss that one. I also have a review of the Nick's Falcon collaboration with Park has coming up and further down the line I'm going to do a series for people who are new to quality heritage style boots and what they can afford as alternatives to expensive boots like this service boot. Subscribe and don't miss these interesting topics until then though take care of yourselves and I'll see you soon