 FreeSalonEducation.com invites you to join us every Wednesday night at 7 30 p.m. Eastern Standard Time for live and interactive classes from your favorite FreeSalonEducation educators. So grab a mannequin, get set up, and make sure to share your results using the hashtag FreeSalonEducation. FSE live starts now. FreeSalonEducation.com and there's a, it's on the YouTube thing I think. Let me turn up my mic a little bit. Extreme close-up. What's up guys? Welcome to FSE live. We're gonna be doing some haircutting tonight. My name is Matt Beck from FreeSalonEducation.com obviously. We're gonna go through, we're gonna be cutting a modern looking shag, but really my goal with tonight is to go through elevation, body position, hand position, all of those things worked into a haircut. It makes it a salon-friendly haircut for you but also it is you know gonna work on the fundamentals as well. So we're gonna start off by pre-section the mannequin just to save a little bit of time and you guys know most of the time how to how to make partings. So I want to go through the sectioning first. We have this time an overhead camera. So hopefully this will help you guys out. So we worked that out. You guys asked for it and we tried to deliver. So we have the the section at the parietal ridge so everything across here coming back to a point in the back of the head. This is low crown. So you have mid-crown here, high-crown, apex. So we're right at below the mid-crown. So low crown right there to a point and then you got to click on the video. We got it? Yeah, so we're all right. So maybe we should start. So anyways we have the mannequin here now. So let's talk about the sectioning and well we have to put the camera. Yes, no I got it. I got it. So parietal ridge over so then we can see here. So parietal ridge over back to low crown just below here and then back up through the parietal ridge area. Then we're going to go down center back here and then I like to section this into two parts because we could over direct everything over but I'm going to explain why it's not always a good idea to always over direct everything extremely across the head. So we break up the two sections right in the temple area and then we have the top. So we're going to start off in the temple area working the sectioning in the haircut. So this mannequin has been sitting here for a little while. We have a lot of hot lights on it so it's probably half dry at this point. So I'm going to turn the head. Let this out. Just saturate the hair a little bit and we're going to start working in the temple area. The reason I like to do that is I want to start working on the face frame. I'm not really worried about the length in the back because this is going to be more of a shag feel to the haircut. It can get as long as it wants in the back and we'll clean it up later. So we're just going to start off. We're going to comb this out. Grab my scissors here. I don't even know where they are. They're right there. So combing the hair down. What I'm going to do is work diagonal forward because we're going to be working on a higher elevation. Now the key thing here is to make sure a lot of times when we want to cut a face frame or more of a shag look a lot of people will just take the hair and bring it forward like this and just start cutting it mostly working with their finger angle not realizing that the elevation is really what changes this whole entire haircut because if you cut everything down here working on your finger angle just to get the kind of scooped feel to the layering what's happening is because your elevation is so low in the haircut it builds up a lot of weight. So we end up with a really heavy haircut and then we have to go in later and take all the weight out. So what I'm going to do is start on the side of the head. I'm going to be working on top of my fingers with diagonal forward sectioning combing it straight straight out parallel from the parting. So let me just turn just a little bit more. There we go. So working you'll see me flipping my comb a little bit. I like to work the little hairs out of the base of the scalp with the tight teeth of the comb and then go through I'm not trying to work with too much tension in this haircut because it is a shag I'm not I'm not trying to create trying to stretch the hair too much I wanted to have a lot of freedom to it. So we're going to elevate it straight up parallel to the section. You're going to choose your length and determine that if you want you could hold a piece down here and see we're just going to eyeball it because I can see it based on my eye where that's going to fall there. So elevation is up parallel to the head and I'm going to work I'll try to adjust. Can we see that Chris? Is that better? So just working that line in the hair there. Now I'm going to take another diagonal forward section out of that temple area really combing those loose hairs at the scalp. Now this is a stationary guide at this point because I'm not working off of a different part of the head. So we're working off one round and the way that I look at the head as I'm cutting the hair is when I made this section as I start to see the head peeling away that's where I take my parting and I section all this hair off. So if I were to over direct the hair from behind that section so if I were to take this hair and bring it past that corner and then all the way up here we're actually passing two corners of the head so this hair is going to fall a lot heavier than this hair is because of the amount of corners. So if you look at when you're cutting hair you're working with a three-dimensional shape so you can't just focus on what my finger angle is here. You also have to realize that the head shape is here so let's say let me take a section and you can see. So not only am I worried about the elevation here vertically I'm also worried about the elevation this way because if I over direct it this way the hair is going to fall back towards me and away from the head. So if I grab hair from all the way back here wrap it all the way around the head and up to this point this hair is going to fall slightly dramatic through the back but then once it rounds that other corner it's going to fall a lot flatter. So my goal is to have a nice light airy feel especially when we're cutting a nice layered hair cut instead of just whipping the hair all the way around the head and having it be too heavy in the back. So we're going to continue in that temple section temple panel there combing the hair up getting the hair off the base working on that same elevation. Re-comb and I slightly elevate my hand a little bit more when I make that second comb because if you look at it here again because this is starting to get a little bit further back on the head the angle is changing so in order for me to not create too much weight build up I need to make sure I shift my hand just slightly so we go up and then when I make my second comb I just shift it up a little bit more and remove a little extra weight there. Another section combing it up and when you break apart or when you break up the head into many sections it allows you to not have to worry so much about your elevation you can stay pretty pretty confident that the elevation is going to be the same throughout the whole section. Yeah I think that that's you know it it's really all about extra combing you know a lot of people it's it's cool to invest a lot of money in scissors to get a great straight line and all of that but really the combing is the most important part so what that's doing is just giving us that layering it's giving us the pieces around the face and we can work on that perimeter later but I really just wanted to get those layers in there and lighten it up first so then now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna work into the back panel now the big difference here is we're gonna be working slightly concave so let me turn around here hopefully you guys can see and maybe that can get in on that one you see my top of my head my nice little bald spot up there no not zooming in on that that thanks appreciate it so now what I'm gonna be doing is I still want to continue that round shape on the haircut so instead of now pulling everything up and over the head what I'm gonna do is start working a concave right at this point behind the ear using a guide from what I had previously cut so we're gonna continue that concave I'm gonna be pulling everything towards myself again still a stationary guide but starting in that second corner so before we were pulling it all the way here now we've built up that guideline and I'm gonna bring everything just to that point so that I don't I'm not pushing too much weight I want some layering through the back and I want to be able to lighten it up through there so Matt we just had a question how I forget what it was exactly it was how do you know how to match up the other side well we're gonna go all the way through it so alright so we'll get there gotcha so now I'm standing in front of the head pulling the hair up towards me straight over top of that first or that corner that we were working on and we're gonna pull our guide from the previously cut hair so there we go need a little bit further and it's important if you want this to really connect the way that you're looking for then it's important to make sure you find that piece of hair throughout there that you were cutting and don't just cut it wherever you feel like so another section another parting again over directing it up towards me and working concave now because we're working condensed cutting or we're working with a stationary guide and she has a lower density of hair I can take a little extra hair through these sections plus because of the length of the mannequin there's not a ton coming off at this point so I can really see that line through it so it's just key thing here is just making sure that you know exactly where you're elevating that hair to or where you're over directing the hair to and keeping it consistent there so that is that side so now what I'm gonna do there was a question earlier how do we match up both sides easiest way to do that is just first up they don't have to be perfectly matched up when you're cutting the hair I mean nobody's face is really symmetrical either but what I'm gonna do is just you know have a piece and you're gonna look at it you're gonna eyeball it you're gonna make your cut but the big difference here is I'm gonna be cutting on the opposite side of the head over directing it up for the first part because I was cutting short to long here and now what I want to do is cut short to long on the other side so I wouldn't want to stand on this side and cut down this way because I want to keep my cutting angles and everything that I'm doing with the scissor consistent so we're gonna take our diagonal forward section just like we did on the opposite side over directing it up and this is where if you want you could take a look at the opposite side and then you're just gonna make that cut in there hey Matt yeah they are asking our lovely followers that are following along with us right now yeah if this is a real client would you stand in front of her for the whole cut like if there was an actual body there not a mannequin stand yes yes I would be standing not as close to her but I would I would definitely be standing in front of her yes okay so again just working that stationary guide all on a diagonal forward and to keep you know consistent with the other side now that I've gotten a little further back I slightly elevate towards the back of the section just to remove a little extra weight off of that corner bring the rest of the hair up and this works great for you know just a face frame as well it doesn't have to be you know a shag feel to the haircut so you could use this technique with a lot of different types of haircuts hey Matt are you using her nose as a guide to put over direct I'm not really using her her nose no we're not over her nose we're right over let's say the eye at this point we're not going all the way to the center that makes sense yep now we're gonna spray it down a little water here yeah it's better than working with like an ear or you know so now big difference here is I was standing in front of the head on this side now I'm standing behind because anytime we're cutting concave we're cutting shorts along again and another difference is I'm pushing away for myself because we always want to be combing towards our guideline so we're just working that hair forward now this is a little bit harder in terms of being comfortable and staying consistent because when as you're pushing that hair forward your arm never wants to rest forward so as I'm combing that I just want to make sure that I stay nice and consistent with where I'm over directing the hair to again parting and over directing just over that's center corner right above the ear now to kind of go a little further with the question about what I stand in front of the client the whole time the big thing is your client's head's gonna move a lot more like right now I don't have a guest in my chair that I'm working on so there's no chair so I can stand right here and it's not a problem if I was working on a guest in the salon what I would probably do is just tilt her head over slightly and bring it over to me this way so that you know I'm staying consistent and that's the beauty of you know working on a real person as you can move their head around so it makes it a little bit easier for you and you're not standing over top of them the whole time now we want to stay clean with the parting so when I grab that guide and then grab my next parting and comb everything together instead of just grabbing that hair from the back and pushing it forward and messing it all up in everything else that I cut because you're gonna end up with five different guides if you bring all of this into it so you want to make sure that you know you just grab that guideline and start pushing everything forward and there's not much to cut at this point comb that just get it out of the way you could even throw a clip in there if you want makes you more comfortable tiny little bit alright so we're gonna comb that out now we're gonna let down the top we're gonna be working with a fringe here but I'm not gonna cut that fringe wet so what I'm gonna do is comb right along the high point of the head and I'm gonna separate the front and the back what I'm looking for when I start combing this down is different movements within the calic area and that's how I'm gonna determine how I want to cut this back portion the rest of the front here is all gonna be cut dry so what I'm gonna do is take this and just twist it up and get it out of the way for now and we're gonna work to the back portion so now I don't see obviously with a mannequin depending on the mannequin but there's not much going on within the calic area so what I'm gonna do is just work in a clock sectioning and really just elevate this to straight above the head so it'll be a little bit of concave so we're working straight up and I'm just gonna remove that wait line and now we're gonna work it like a clock so take that section take half of what I just cut and bring that up into my hand so now we're working with a station or a traveling guide through this part another section half of the old comb it all out of the way and elevate straight up in the air and we're gonna do the same thing on the other side body position is gonna stay the same I'll cut this in half directly down center back and take another clock section there all right the last little bit so we got some nice layers in there layering in there we've removed a lot of the weight and we've softened the shape to kind of create a lot of that movement in there and give this kind of a shaggy or feel what we didn't want to do is have the real kind of uniform layering in there so just working on your elevation and making sure that you're not over directing everything too far and all of that that's gonna eliminate the fact that you have all those really stacked layers in there so what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna blow dry the mannequin and I'm gonna blow dry the front we're gonna smooth it completely out and then we're gonna go in and do a ton of dry cutting to really finalize and personalize the haircut and we're gonna cut the fringe dry as well so let's go ahead and do that me grab brush we're gonna start by working a flat wrap motion with the hair and just smoothing it out that doesn't mean that this has to be a smooth style at the end it's not going to be it's gonna have a lot of texture but just flat wrapping it gives it kind of a smooth feel and allows your eye to see kind of how the weight is shifting and moving in the haircut so we're gonna go in with the blow dryer and just start smoothing it out so I start working the hair forward and then I work the hair backward and I'm not leaving any part in the hair whatsoever so as I work the hair around the head I'm working with it in its natural fall and just slightly moving it back and forth we'll do a little bit of leafing through the hair so I'll take some from the base and I'm just allowing the air to pass over the cuticle I'm not working it and moving the blow dryer a lot because I don't want to rough up the cuticle of the hair and just allowing the air to pass over and smooth smooth out again brushing it back and forth what that's gonna do is give it a very flexible base so then when we go in and we're gonna cut later we can move the hair all around and it falls really natural and the more we allow that air to flow over top of the hair it just gets shinier and shinier as you let it do that because it's laying the cuticle down and making and the cuticle is what really produces the shine so just allow that air to flow over top and let the brush do all the work while you're blow-drying it hey Matt yeah somebody's gonna be working at a Paul Mitchell salon and wants to know if you have any recommendations for good products to use as a cutting lotion from Paul Mitchell I would say I like quick slip or the conditioner is a great product as well doesn't be my two big choices I mean if they don't if their hair is finer and you don't want to put it like a heavier product on there maybe just go with sculpting foam you know with a little bit of a serum just so you don't have that heavy weight in there but I would say quick slip is kind of my go-to and then because it has a little bit of hold to it for the blow-dry later and the conditioner is always good especially if somebody has really thick kind of tangled hair that you're trying to work through I like that one as well I can already see kind of how the round layering flows back so you can see how the weight starts off it just gets a little bit heavier towards the back and then it's the heaviest at the back point that's what you're really looking for with this haircut to give it that shag kind of feel it's that freezing almost alright so the fringe is really the most important part especially because we haven't cut it yet so as I'm working through the front we're going to go back and forth really work in the base of the scalp or the base of the hair right at the scalp and making sure that there's no part whatsoever in the hair it's actually pretty loud in here I think the microphone is just that good yeah because last week on Brian's video when he started blow-drying I couldn't hear it either so I don't know it's loud in here yeah they're not yeah quieter than most but it's still not quiet the barrel I mean this barrel doesn't see much longer than any other okay honestly I say whatever your preference is that's what you should go with I mean yeah yeah alright so last little bit here and then we can get turn it this way okay I'm not a fan of I've never really been a fan of the the like bore yeah the natural ones that's just personal preference though I know there's a lot of people that are so I think for a dressing brush I like more of a bore bristle kind of feel to it but for blow drying and stuff I just feel like it has a lot of tension it doesn't I feel like it this doesn't for me flow through the hair as easy as a brush like this when you're working through it but depending on the type of you know type of hair you're working with as well if you have really coarse hair and you need something with a lot of tension then I think it's you know a better option for you most of my guests have hair like this so I don't typically need to have something with a lot of tension right right so they don't heat up as much either hey Matt what is your recommendation for clients who won't keep their heads still you know that's funny that's not a question that gets asked a lot you just make them keep their heads still I think you know like you just have to you really have to take control when you're behind the chair like it's it's kind of your time to make them look good and make them their hair look good so if they're moving their head around you just got to tell them that they got to stop or their hair is not gonna look as good and I guarantee if you tell them that then they'll start to pay attention you know so I never really have that much trouble I mean I've obviously there's occasionally somebody I have a guest who's on her cell phone the entire time I cut around it and I let her go and if you know that's that's her choice if she wants to talk on the phone the entire time you know so sometimes we just have to in salon reality do what we need to do you know yeah that has a question everyone I say you know I don't ask them to put their head down and let them do it I put it there put it where it needs to be and then you know let it go and if they kind of come up a little bit then you put them right back you know you need to make those kind of those adjustments as you're going through it so if you guys didn't understand what that's question was it was what happens if you tell them to put their head down they don't put it down as far as you want them to this is a good way to you know you just you grab their head and you put it there and I think that that comes with confidence and you know just the more years you are behind the chair the more you you're comfortable with just moving them around and putting them where you want them to be but it's definitely going to make for a more successful visit for your for your clients so yeah let me adjust a bit so good so basically what I'm going to do here is I'm combing the top of the head right at the pridal ridge over and we're going to go through and smooth this and I'm going to work on a diagonal back quickly through it I mean I don't want to spend a ton of time on this but it's really important not to just grab a bunch of hair and start ironing it with your comb because that's not you want every piece of hair to be the same and smoothed out so that you see your lines that you cut if you don't do that you're not going to see any of the lines that you cut then you end up cutting something that you didn't want to in the first place so this will really if you get a nice smoothed out head of hair you're going to really see if you have any inconsistencies that you want to make adjustments to or anything like that so what I'm going to do is I comb out the hair I hold it in my hands just like I was going to cut it with a lot of tension and then I put the iron in this is my new fun tool from Bercato the Vibra straight which I just realized you can turn the vibration off which is yeah hey Matt yeah someone is noticing that you're flat ironing with a comb why that versus using a round brush when you dried it well I don't a round brush is not going to a round brush will make the hair smooth but it won't if you're looking to smooth the hair out at a natural fall you're going to get a much kind of flatter smoother polish with a flat brush and then the iron so I'm only doing this is prep for a haircut not for her to walk out the door so anytime I have never I'm going to tell you this now and I don't know if I know the exact actual reason but I've never been backstage at a hair show watching somebody do a beautiful haircut and round brush to smooth it for for the hair cutting finish I mean I've seen there's been times where I've seen them round brush a section if they're going to do a certain type of dry cutting to have a little more bevel in it but I think for the most part you're going to see everybody going through with nice fine sections polishing out the hair and getting it ready to cut it then later on you can go in and add some volume or whatever you want to add into it at the end and the texture but plus I think once they see your finished result here after you go through and smooth it out here yeah I mean you'll see that when Mac goes through and irons this like I can rock a round brush but I can't do this with it so yeah this is a it's just a different right yeah it's too hard to get a round brush nice and tight in there now people can do really nice round brush blow dries that's not what this is though this is this is for hair cutting yeah and then if you could just explain the point of using the comb with the straightener so I'm parting the hair right and then I'm taking my section I'm combing it out to to get the tangles out of the hair but then I'm not really combing anymore and the only reason I put the comb back in after I pass with the iron is because it's hot as hell and I don't want to burn myself but other than that I'm not that there's no reason for the comb in there we'll do a couple passes and then you're good so I'm working on a diagonal back so I want to create creases in the hair and then I'm taking my section nice and small section a lot of tension with my fingers and then when I go to put the iron in it so I don't have to stretch so much when I go to put the iron in it as soon as that iron hits the hair I'm following the round of the head with my hand so this is following the shape of the head down so you can see that little slight bevel to the hair it's not perfectly straight if you make it perfectly straight that's kind of defeating the purpose of seeing the weight shift and the shape of the haircut so you can see how that falls it's all falling seamlessly together and that's what smoothing the hair for cutting is all about so I'll grab another section and we'll just work through a lot of tension diagonal back and you'll notice too I'm really just focused on the ends I'm not really touching the scalp much because I already did all that work with the blow-dry so really my big focus throughout this whole thing is just the the ends of the hair Justin you want to come up here real quick I'll just have you so I can get through this quick you stand over there and I thought you were taking your shirt off no that's okay here that just channel that all there is is boys here for the most part me Matt this is off topic okay Kevin would like to know what brand jacket you have on this is a diesel and is this Matt is this mannequin available on the website this saw there is a blonde I think it's Irene this exact mannequin is not this one I found in the basement there is one like it yeah I was gonna say Irene but I'm not sure she's blonde yeah yeah the ones on our website are are really good mannequins so their pivot point mannequins are all the better quality ones so I didn't put the cheaper ones on there because I don't I just feel like if you're gonna get one I would rather you get the the better one so yeah alright so let's go to this side so we're just gonna work on our way back if you guys have any questions keep asking them it's not much else to say at this point someone would like to know what the minimum starting point with shears I'm guessing for the price on our website um well like the scissors I was using today are the DB 20 those are not the minimum but they're normally an $800 scissor but we have them on our site with the 20% discount is 640 lowest price scissor on the website would probably be the blacksmith fit which is about with your I think there's a 10% discount on that which would make it about $405 I believe so that would be like a base model scissor which but it's an awesome scissor I have it right there and I use it a lot as well so not that one but that's a base model as well biggest difference like the DB 20 has the ball bearing ball bearing screw in it so it's a smoother shot to the scissor and it also is the powder metal the nano powder metal steel which is basically just smaller molecules of metal that are consistent shape with cheaper scissors and it's not a bad thing but when you look at what cobalt is made of cobalt is made of a few different types of metal so the shape of each cut of metal is a different shape so if you actually looked at a scissor under a microscope you're gonna see that there's gaps in it so the blade's gonna be a little bit rougher and it's not gonna be as consistent with the hardness of the blade so that's why I like the nano powder metal and that's why you know it's a little bit more expensive but it's worth it in the end you're gonna have it forever so be laughing about yeah they're referring to you as the human clippy yes hey Matt do you want to hit on the point of the vibrating of the iron again yes so the vibrating of the iron it's kind of like how I'm taking the comb and putting it through the hair right now it separates the hair and allows you to smooth it out better the point of this iron why it vibrates so you can turn on the vibration you can hear it maybe so as I go to iron the hair it vibrates and moves the hair as it's ironing down sometimes I like it on there but I really I like the iron by itself so I don't really use the vibrating function that often all right almost there Justin see the finish line yep then we put you away so you can see through there how much tension is actually on the hair and I start not at the scalp because if I go to the scalp it's gonna pinch all that hair together anyways and create a crease so I just start about the mid shaft and work my way down and again just softly beveling the edge and polishing the ends no this is good information so we're almost there thank you Justin everyone's ADD is kicking in right now all right so last little bit is the front okay so once I get done smoothing it because the hair I feel is a little bit kind of stuck together I just go through and blow dry real quick around it and I feel like that's to me kind of polishes the hair a little bit more adds a little shine and separates it hey Matt yeah dry cutting scissors question the difference between the acro leaf and the puffins so acro leaf is I think it will it's really just quality of metal so the puffin is gonna be is made of like the acro is part of the the type Z family so that's a more expensive metal I don't think it's the nano powder metal but it's a cobalt metal the puffin is also cobalt but it has a little bit fatter edge to it so the acro leaf is not quite as wide as the puffin that's why they call it the puffin those are really the only two things that I really know about it I don't have the acro leaf so I've never used that one but we do have the puffin sad you have yours it's packed up jay do you have yours okay so kind of show you guys what the puffin is all about but it's just really just a fatter blade and what the fatter blade does it kind of it wings out and then comes back in so when the blades come together it slightly pushes the hair so instead of coming down and slicing the hair off you get a little more push to it so it's a softer cut when it's when you're working with dry hair so depending on really what you want doesn't mean that you have to have a puffin to cut dry hair obviously you guys know that but sometimes you want a regular scissor to cut dry hair like puffin I don't know you guys it's not like a scissor over comb type thing on dry hair do you use it for scissor over comb a little bit you do you use it for it to okay okay so like right in the kind of sweet spot in the middle yeah go to Thad's camera the Thad cams I can you zoom in on this a little bit I'll move so you can zoom in um so no one can hear you at all no no at all it's because you don't have a mic oh sad that yeah that's talking and we can't hear him so I'm gonna break this down real quick Thad's saying he disputes that you don't need them because he thinks that you do need them men's cutting he cuts the top of the head you guys can't hear him at all so I know so we are so basically he's saying that he uses them for men's cutting women's cutting he uses them for pretty much everything point cutting yeah so it's a great scissor and what you're gonna notice the difference between a dry cutting scissor and a regular scissor for those of you that don't normally use them is so you have your regular scissor here you have your dry cutting puff in here where it gets fatter in the blade is where all the power is so a typical scissor is going to be weaker at the tip and that's why a lot of times like if you get your scissor messed up or something like that when you go down to cut you'll have problems with the tip actually cutting the hair because it's the weakest part of the scissor usually the part that gets damaged first most people like if you look at the type z2 which is Mizetani as well you could see that it gets fatter at the tip and we've done this video before so if you guys get a chance check it out on our YouTube channel but it gets fatter at the tip so this is a great scissor for point cutting so what I usually do is this one is my main point cutting and I also like it for scissor over comb because no matter what when I'm working through the hair like Justin said he likes it has that sweet spot well on a type C2 it has a sweet spot right at the tip but it's also has a thick blade here and then this beveled kind of powerful edge down the center so this blade is so strong that you can really use it for basically anything the puffin is great because it has a nice razor sharp fatter blade so we can use it for dry cutting as well so I'm gonna show you guys what we're gonna do with the fringe so now I'm gonna move to more of a wider tooth comb to work on the fringe area we'll slide around here and we really want to open up the face so what I'm gonna do is comb this down to its natural fall someone asked real quick can you use the puffin for the tease cutting yeah that's what I'm gonna do right now look at that so we're gonna tease cut the fringe in instead of cutting it straight so we could do a straight across fringe why don't I just ask everybody actually do we want to see the fringe straight across and I'll delay for a second or the fringe to be shattered and messier we'll find out get a quick vote Matt what part of the scissors did you say was the weakest in the cutting so the weakest part of a scissor is the tip just the tip yeah oh god thanks Brian all right so I'm gonna work on the sectioning right now because the section will be the same no matter which way we're cutting this haircut so you guys be on the lookout for which type of fringe that they want so I'm gonna section down I comb this all in the natural fall and what I want to do is just take out the edge of the eyebrow I'm gonna push this hair back now I can clip it away which I'm going to I might have to iron it a little bit later but I really want to get that hair out of the way and we're gonna do the same thing on the opposite side I'm gonna comb it from this high point we're gonna do a nice heavy fringe no matter what you guys decide it looks like it's gonna be shattered everyone saying shattered we got shattered but straight not angled okay cool good choice all right so we're gonna take the puff in and use that for this haircut is this the right angle Chris well no I know I just moved because I saw that it was on that section but I just want to make sure or should I move this way yeah let's do that I think that one's good all right so I'm gonna go right down the center of the nose I'm gonna hold the hair out I think I'm gonna shift like this everybody can see the elevation and then they can also see above it when we want to as well so I'm gonna pinch this in my hand I'm not twisting the hair some people like to twist the hair I think if you twist the hair too much it starts to over direct it and it's just not I think you get a better result without doing that so I'm gonna pinch the hair now you're gonna see this angle coming off here if you go to the other camera Chris the you can see that angle there this is so as the head starts to go down right this is where people make the biggest mistake with a fringe as the head starts to go down the angle changes so we're at 90 degrees right here right so this what I'm holding right here is actually zero degrees a lot of people would say that this is zero this is below zero so we want to keep this at about a zero straight out from the forehead and that's gonna give us our best angle it's still gonna be heavy but it'll be broken up as well so now I'm gonna pinch pinch the hair determine where I want that hair to fall and then I'm gonna go in with my scissor right here pinch it really hard not let it go and just work the puff and dry cutting scissor through it I have a lot of hair in my hand so I'm just gonna keep working through and the cool thing about a tease cut is it's giving it a whole bunch of different lengths so that's gonna give it that kind of shattered broken up feel and we're gonna go in we'll take a little bit more of that out in a second but what I want to do is just get this line in here so I grab another piece of hair grab another piece as my guide over directed straight out from the head not into the center same thing here I grab this piece and bring it out here we do not sell combs anymore no we give them away at hair shows though yeah all right so we did some tease cutting now I'm gonna let this down and I want to break it up a little bit more so what we're gonna do is I'm gonna go through and this is all based on the density of the hair but I have my acro leaf wide this is the the texturizing scissor version of the dry cutting scissors so as a dry cutting blade on it and but it's a texturizer as well so I'm still gonna do tease cutting and what I'm gonna do is come over top of the hair and clip that top part away because I don't want to cut into the top part of the fringe because that's the part that I want to kind of have my line I want the underneath to be a little bit weaker so we're gonna go in here with our texturizer and just cut into it slightly and just keep breaking it up and that's really all based on how much you want it to be broken up so we're just gonna go in cut into it just teasing into it yeah yeah you could use that it just I mean the more teeth you have the less dramatic it's gonna cut into it so but but it works you know just as good so I just like I think the biggest thing is just keep taking these sections don't try to do the whole fringe at the same time and you can go in you could even come in with your texturizer and just break it up this way as well and take some of those pieces out hey Matt what shows are you going to be at in the near future I know I'm gonna be at yes yeah I mean I'm not yeah I'm not teaching I'm gonna be at the Millennium booth podcasting so we'll be that's kind of the so far the plan because there's questions of Orlando Vegas and possibly Houston they're wanting to know if you're gonna be I will not be in Houston or Vegas for sure possibly Orlando even if I'm in Orlando I'm podcasting as well so we don't have any classrooms really set up yet so you'll have to be on the the lookout for that all right so I want to kind of show you where we're at so far Chris you want to show can you do like a wiggly close-up to show about how much you're opening and closing as you are tease cutting yes where should I close up here or should I go to that here we go right here so let's see if we can focus in here so basically what it is is where I'm actually with this is or I'm closing all the way so I guess I don't need to do that with a text riser with the puff in we're going in and closing about that much so it's open close about that much so really you're working on that what Justin was saying was a sweet spot where the blade is the thickest you don't want to try to get into the tip and sliding in and even if you did that shut up right even if you did that praising even if you did that it's the weakest part you're gonna cut the hair off where you don't want to anyways so all right now what I'm gonna do is just blend in we have a little bit left over from this section that we left out long from the shag part of the haircut so what I'm gonna do is just take that little bit we're gonna work actually gonna elevate it up in the air here and I'm gonna work a point cut and this is where you really feel the puffins cutting well because they are that's I mean they're really meant for that yeah so I'm gonna do the same thing on the opposite side elevating up point cutting in just removing that weight right around the face so there's a ton of texture in this haircut you can see how it gets longer into the back that's what I really probably one of my favorite parts about this cut and I want to go through and just take a few pieces and again just a little bit of tease cutting because I love the way that it adds the texture into the hair but not doing too much because I mean you obviously don't want to alter the haircut so this is very light I'm barely closing the scissor as I cut just softening some pieces around the face and I'm at you want to clarify what type of hair to be using this on for those of the audience you may not have been that experienced in this type of cutting what texture of hair you can do this on any texture of hair for the most part I love doing on curly hair I so I wouldn't even worry about that it's just more knowing how much hair you actually want to take out is it's probably the biggest biggest thing now I'm gonna go through and just soften in the fringe area thank you for asking oh I didn't know that so we go through and I'm just softening the edge a little bit I might go through the top here just point cut into it a little bit more take a little bit more from the back these are just horizontal sections in the back bringing everything up Matt just so you know there's a lot of people thrown out a bunch of love right now saying how much they love these classes and they're learning more tonight than they have in a very long time and people are saying they love the education because they're connecting with people from all over while learning at the same time that's awesome so you guys can see all of this texture here and how it's a shag it's got the shag feel to it but the modern part about it is it's not flipping out and all that stuff it's you know it's got a lot of movement the fringe kind of gives it the modern feel and it's not a big hairdo so I really love that when I add a little bit texture here it's a little bit of cream texture we've been playing with these products from brocado and I'm really loving a lot of different ones but this one this one's nice because it's a it's a really creamy feel to the product but then once you get it in your hands it's it kind of stiffens up a little bit but it doesn't make the oh come on come on crazy I'm pretty sure that was Drea that started laughing first wasn't even Brian Matt say hi to Stuart it's one o'clock in the morning there and he's still staying awake to watch this thanks Stuart Christine is not even awake says totally worth it I was just kidding you said that you were you were getting bored John Penta would also like to thank you for taking the time from your family to educate us and Pam Barry T once glitter spray in there of the glitter spray if we're using the glitter spray I'm leaving now see you guys tomorrow spray it on Justin all right this is a can you type is anybody have any questions so we don't have to wait for the response I think we've hit on most of the questions everything seems good any last minute questions guys people are saying they love it they're gonna do the cut great class sorry about that yeah it's fun I like it I like it I had no idea this was gonna happen are we using the Bercato glitter spray on this one no Christina stole it she just got it for you I'm not really gonna spray it on her but I am gonna spray it I can't I can't glitter everything up yeah that so I just used the movable hold spray from Bercato to kind of finish it up it's got a really good smell to it and I use the carved texture icing which was a cool product just to get get that texture in there but it's still nice and light so it's not like it's a super heavy product so I hope you guys enjoyed this haircut thank you for hanging out the whole time I don't even know how long we've been on here but if you guys hung out the whole time you're awesome yeah so thank you guys for watching we'll be back here live again next Wednesday night and make sure you check out splitting hairs Wednesday mornings at 9 30 it's our podcast for hairdressers where we just have a good time and we talk about hair subjects and hang out as a group so you guys have any questions post them below in the comments make sure you please subscribe to our YouTube channel and share it with all of your friends we're hoping to keep sharing free salon education all over the place so thank you guys so much and we'll see you next week thanks free salon education comm invites you to join us every Wednesday night at 7 30 p.m. Eastern Standard Time for live and interactive classes from your favorite free salon education educators so grab a mannequin and get set up and make sure to share your results using the hashtag free salon education FSE live starts now