 We're going to do this one more time to kind of explain how this thing works. So you've got the ceramic piece there encased in rubber. The rubber's got a tight seal against the metal. You've got this piece here, which is your black ceramic encased in rubber. The rubber touches the brass. It's going to slide down onto this brass. The spring's going to put pressure against it. And then on the backside here, you've got a O-ring that goes between the brass and that cut mark there. And that's going to go on the backside of the propeller. The seal's on this pump to the right, right here. I've got a valve off, I think, to turn. This thing's from 98. Got this butterfly-looking valve here shot. Got the motor mark down there on the bottom base. Rising. Looks to me like they added silicone to it, which is really making it easy to remove. I think I might end up trying that, because I like that. That's made it really, really nice to pull hard. Normally, you've got to chisel that crap off. This literally came right apart for me. Took that bolt off the end of it. Sled the propeller right off the end with the little crowbar there. The other section. So we take it apart. Here's the seal. This is so freaking dirty, you can't really tell anything. There's your black piece that mats against the white piece for your seal. I've got to pry this out of there yet. We got it in there. We ended up using the little piece of paper there. What I ended up doing, once I had it pretty much pushed into place with my hand, went ahead and put the flat side of this down on it and then kind of put more weight on it so that it was proportionally pushing on all sides to get it down in there, which, you know, this is not brand new spring chicken. It's 1998, so whether that's 20, some years old. What I see on the back side is clean, far as clean and even on both sides. They all finish wiping a little bit more of that stuff out. They don't want you to touch it with your fingers, which give me a break. That's unrealistic. But as long as you clean it up when you're done, it don't cause any starring on the face of the white or black seals that be piling, far as my opinion. Now I've got to get this back onto this piece here. It's where the lines come in handy. I've got to finish squeezing it together yet. I've got to get these bolts back in here. It wasn't perfect just yet. That's why we're leaving it kind of loose and slowly getting a bash right there. So we checked the bearings and stuff. They felt good, but I want to get fresh grease in there. We're going to flush that out. A little leakage there. We've been able to force it all through there. We're going to spin this thing some more and get it all out that way you aren't packed full of pressure and get that cleaned out. But we flushed through it. The bearings hadn't been getting greased very often prior to us. It's lived a hard life. Now the top one, it looks like some really nasty crap came out of there. You're really not supposed to use different motor greases or, you know, different greases from what I've always read. Maybe that only applies to motors. Like I said, there's no grind or anything like that. I put my ear up against the body there. It was listening for it because I've had a job where everything seemed like it was fine. We got it together and then I found out the bearings had a whine to it. So we've got it back in there. We've got that reattached. We've got this cleaned up with the brush wheel. We've got all that inside there cleaned up the brush wheel and blew out before we put it together. We don't want little chunks of crap coming down and getting in between your special seal here. Be careful that you don't touch the actual shiny part. Lubricate the backside. That's going to slide right down onto this brass rubber that slides right down onto it like that. Spring keeps the tension on it. That brass is lubricated with that same special silicone lubricant that they gave you. This is going to go straight down. We slide that onto that right there. They did not attach that rubber to that brass or that stainless piece there. What I did is I laid this down horizontal so I didn't have to worry about it falling into it and getting offset. I slid it on to the back so you can see what's going on. There's a rubber O-ring here which really is a square ring more than it is an O-ring. That fits right down into that groove. That is going to mate up against this backside of the propeller which we already wire the brush wheel back off. Then when we finish up the final seal is going to be this washer that has rubber in between it that's going to go on top of this propeller like that right there. That's the old seal right there that's just going to go boom like that right there. Before we get too far here we got to look at the set key that goes on here. That set key just barely misses that rubber. That's got to match up with the propeller here. While we're doing that we got to make sure that slides right into that key slot. I went ahead and ran the wire brush wheel on that last surface there. Everything's plain stuck going up to there so you've got some feeling going on there between the shaft of that bolt and that. I just got to shove it together and get it threaded on. Nothing's hitting. Everything's smoothly turning. Feels pretty good. You can see in the past where it may have hit it. Maybe that's the way they grooved it I don't know. It feels like it may have hit it one time whether it be rust or what and kind of carved it up a little bit. This is probably going to change that a couple of times. I'm going to do what they did last time. I only had a little bit of the high tip silicone around the corners and pulled the gasket in place. Then it'll also make it a lot easier to get apart next time which this thing came apart with minimal fight. So I've got that on there. Everything feels good around it. Just got to add that little silicone behind it and on top of it and then we'll start matching it back up over there. Which I've already put blue marks in different spots to help make it a little easier. I've got me a very thin little layer all the way around there. And now we'll put a little layer on top of that so it mates against the housing. And got to like that right there. Now I know we've used this trick before. I've had to do plumbing at different companies. Luckily I don't have to really do it here too much. But sometimes you're leaving your silicone with rubber o-ring on your basket strainers. And sometimes you just can't get them perfect. And a lot of times it holds a lot better than what bummer's buddy does. So you know, I ain't going to put it past it. Like I said it's actually in the instructions there. I've never done it like this before but it just made sense to me for as nice as it came apart. And it wasn't leaking there so obviously it works pretty good. One of the good things about having that in there like that is to get crinkled up and go to crap on you. So I got the first two started. Just going to work our way around slowly pull it in evenly. We got it together. They had some bolts that were a little short. So we had to get some other ones. Luckily they had some. We had to cut them down with the old bandsaw there which made it a lot nicer. Right now what we did is we opened up that return side. I've got it open. There's a bleed port here. What I could have done was opened up because it had, you know, pressure up to here when we stopped it. So if it in water straight through and then bled it up to here that would have been an idea. But unfortunately these things are so plugged up they've never been used. What I ended up doing was opening the side. Hope that it would tush most of it down to here. Shut off both pumps. Open the butterfly slowly so that it would go up here to my oil separator. And right now I'm just kind of searching my pump. The one that was actually still hooked up. And getting the last bits a little squirt there. This here is like a transfer switch. It allows either one pump or the other. So it's kind of a, it's a double throw non-fusible. There you go. Only one can be powered. But you can hear the bleeder up there. So my thought was we'll go ahead and slowly make sure I got all the air out as much as possible. You're going to get some unfortunately. So next thing I got to do is get my straight edge and stuff and get this thing leveled up. When I did this I did not mess with any shims that would have been in the motor. We're going to have quarter seals with this. So I condemned this nearly six months ago. And with the air conditioning season hitting we haven't had time. The boiler was not a humongous deal. However it is used for quite a few things here. And it does have to run year round. This does have the regular auto fill, which half the time doesn't fill up. We have a bypass fast fill there, which I just added. The newest boilers got new gauges that are actually working. That was showing me 15 to 12 here. I think more like 15. I'm going to go with that one down there. The poor man's way of getting this back was using your markings down there. Along with your crew bar, your straight edge. And just lining it up, making sure you're good in all directions. Now there's companies out there using lasers and all this other... You know, I don't have that. But this flex coupling can absorb a little bit. Alright, here we go. Let's get this thing a shot. Not seeing any leakage. Go ahead and change the ones on the chiller over here. This one here is the chiller circulator. The bolts that were pretty rusted in there. We've got them sprayed and soaking right now. I'm going to end sprayed with penetrating oil in there. Reassembly. Got the motor loosened, slid back. Got everything marked just like we did before. This one actually slides in the track there. They took a little bit of frying on all corners with the pry bar. And it hammered in between the bolts to go. Worked my way around slowly and eventually came loose. Of course you've got easily probably 10 gallons. So we ended up using the grinder wheel there to go through and clean. See, this is what normally is like. Usually all rusted, your gaskets are stuck on there, which I've got a little more cleaning to do. I like this gasket remover tool here. Works really good. It's a regular flat razor, which I'm getting kind of rough on it twice, angled like that. But it literally gets right through there and helps take them right off. Same thing as before. We've got that old piece of junk out of there. It's right there on the floor, looking pretty ratty. You can see the black stuff there. That's the actual piece that goes to it. It's all ripped up. Took the rubber out of it. Brung the brushed wheel on it, which I did with that part with my little drill. Cleaned it all out. Put a little bit of the silicone stuff right there it is. Put that only on the rubber side. Shove it down as far as I could. Put that on top of it to protect the white surface. Use the brass. Put it on top of that like that. Shove down so that it uniformly pushed all the way around so that way I didn't crack it. So at this point, that looks like it's completely in there. I cleaned that up, painted it, and then put the rubber back down. So it's pretty good. I'd like to have done it to that, but I'm not going to get it on its mating surface. That right there is the reason why I cleaned most of that rust crap off, which I'm going to clean a little more off because I do not want to get that rust in between there on my seal. That'd be really bad. I cleaned most of the other stuff off the outside here. That was really loose and nasty looking, but I kind of forgot that piece right there. So I'm going to clean that real quick. Got that cleaned up, blew it out with the blower. Got these edges here because that's going to mate up against that piece right there. We do not have to add anything to the white. So you got to keep that thing perfectly clear. You're not supposed to put your fingers on it or anything like that. So we're cleaning that up with a rag here in a second. Okay, we're going to do this one more time to kind of explain how this thing works. Got the ceramic piece there encased in rubber. The rubber's got a tight seal against the metal. You've got this piece here, which is your black ceramic encased in rubber. The rubber touches the brass. It's going to slide down onto this brass. The spring's going to put pressure against it. And then on the backside here, you've got a O-ring that goes between the brass and that curve and that little cut mark there. And that's going to go on the backside of the propeller. Then the bolt is going to go through the center of that propeller, has a rubber between the head of the bolt going down into the spindle like this right here. And that basically seals it. So everything on the inside of this brass is completely dry, nothing happens. The outside's got the water on it, and that's how it seals. The spinning part, the friction, what have you, is on the black to the white. So as time goes on and cred gets down into there, it ends up eating away at it and causes abrasive problems. And that's how it starts to leak. So all we've done is we've cleaned everything up. So we've got this here. I've got to put this on horizontally. So I'm going to lay this back down, the spindle there, and then slide it on horizontally. Then I'll put on the brass afterwards. Now one thing I'm going to tell you too, if you have problems getting that old spring mechanism there, that one there's all gumped up, full of thread, and it won't slide out. What I did is I cranked this bolt all the way in so that nothing can be damaged. I will gently let it hit the floor. The weight is going to hit against this and the threads, so it's not going to damage anything. That's why I want it all the way in there. Those threads are pretty strong. And basically then it's just kind of like a weighted sledge hammer, and it eventually pops down, then you can pull it the rest of the way off, or at least it gets out far enough that you can pry it out with your pry bar there. But that's what I ended up doing to get it off. The other one slid right off. This one here did not. I'm going to go on there like that. Against the other one, there you go. It's mating surface against it. Now you've got the set key here. Like that. This comes on the backside. Matches up against it. Now you've got that O-ring, or square ring as I'm kind of calling it, because it's square. It goes on the end right there. Like that. That seals it against this piece right here. I've got that on there, tightened it up by hand with wrench. Just used my crowbar. Wedged it in there so it wouldn't turn. Be careful. You can see what the last guy did when he was prying this off. He bent that, which probably could cause you some problems with your bearings. Definitely not a good thing. It would have been nice to have known that, but there's no way to know it. It's not horrible, but definitely isn't helping it none. Not brave enough to really smack it too hard and try to bend it back, because it could bust into like a casting. I'm not going to take a chance of that. Put a thin bead. This is some RTV silicone high-tip stuff that I had left over from another job. I didn't use it all. Put a little bead on there. I'm going to smooth it out with my finger. I just want a very, very thin piece there. I'm really using more of an anti-seize for the gasket, so it doesn't stick like it did last time. Also, it'll help seal up any spots where it's not making the greatest contact with it. If you don't want to get any of that into the inside, if you do, you want to wipe that off and get it out of there. We've got the gasket on now, and we're just going to put another thin layer around it and then pour and swap a little back over there into place. One, two, three, four. Work your way around just like you're doing a tire so that it pulls it in evenly. We've already spun this, made sure that everything feels free. I'm already taking out the ports. I used a whole freaking tube of electric motor bearing grease and filled this thing up. It's been one day now. This one here is not leaking. That's the one we first did. We're looking good on that. We're here to our other one. Got everything cleaned up. Touched it up a little bit where the paint was missing. Filled some stuff up back in place. The motors are greased. Everything's been purged on the water side of things. Any air would have went up there to the air separator up on the top left there. I opened up our outgoing side. I shut the pumps down when I did this so that there was no artificial flow to disturb it. Didn't really hear much air of any sort, so I'll probably have to go around to the different air handlers and make sure that we've got cool water hitting all of them. That's going to wrap this one up, guys. Just a quick little job here on the video. It's done. It's completed. If you guys enjoyed it, if you would like, share, and subscribe. Check us out on Facebook and Instagram. Until next time, guys, we will catch you on the next one.