 What a wonderful day to go work on a cooler. So we got one that's freezing up. So we're gonna get there and see what's going on. I'm gonna guess that either slow on charge or the thermostats acting up or we have a fan out. So let's go take a look at it and see what we've got going on. So we've got us another true natural refrigerator. So we've got a coil that is really freezing up. It's been doing it since freaking June. It worked for maybe a month. And then they got to unplug it. And then basically it works again for a while. It looks like our seals are in need of placing. Okay, so we're a little bit dirty there. I'm gonna clean that off. You can see we've got a little bit of water down there in our pan. Coil's looking a little ratty. I'm going to do my usual. I'm going to brush the coil off. We're going to check the system for leaks because that tends to happen. And I noticed the condenser coil don't feel very warm. We're gonna check our temperature sensors because they've changed positions a few times. And we're gonna check our programming in this thing. So he just turned it on. Both temperature sensors are in that area. We're also going to find out, see what's going on. We're also going to find out whether or not it's set up for accumulative defrost or time defrost. And from what I've learned, the time defrost has been the most reliable and had the least problems. As usual, they try to be all efficient and that tends to not work out so well. So let's go ahead and get started here. All right, so we scanned it over for leaks and not really finding anything. However, you can see that signs of oil that's nowhere else up here. So I'm pretty sure we have a leak. Our pressures might be a little bit low. So if the pressures are low, we aren't going to get much of a leak. So I'm going to probably tap this thing as much as I don't want to and find out. Still going to check our coil up here yet for our sensor. You can see where all this is. And there's the blue one going back here. Make sure that's in the right spot. But it's leaning towards an issue with the refrigerant level, which, like I said, I've seen the leak there before. I've replaced this coil on another one before. Didn't have anything on any of the cap tube and stuff like that, which is one of the smarter things they finally started to do. But we have cap tube in here so that you can change it without having to run a whole new line down here, which I don't know why they didn't do that long time ago. So we're going to go ahead and probably tap this thing. We're going to double check the sensors and programming first before we do that because it's going to be the last thing I want to do. So we went through here and double checked the defrost type and the type was accumulative, so we switched it to time. We checked the differential on the temperature. It goes three degrees above, three degrees below. We changed the temperature for defrost to end at, from 40 took it to a little higher and the maximum defrost times 40 minutes. So we did a few changes there, but because I can see that oil in here on the coil, right up in here, see that stain there? That right there tells me that there's a leak, most likely a leak in that area because there's no reason for it to be brown like that. So I am leaning on, I also adjusted the temperature sensor on the back a little higher. Normally it's a little bit towards the top of the coil instead of towards the middle. All this thing's combined. I'm really leaning towards going ahead and tapping this thing. I didn't want to, but I think it's about where we're at. All right, so I'm going to go ahead and cut it loose. We're going to go ahead and do this with my little torch here. This is quarter inch lines. This shouldn't take much heat to do it. I'm tired of bringing in the monster torch. Every time we want to do something, so I'm going to get this done. Put that there, we'll go ahead and cool it down, get the valve core in there. Chances are this is going to be low. Factor recommends you go on high side also. We're just going to see if it looks low to begin with and then we'll add a little bit and then order a coil if that's where we need to. We can always check the customer and see if they want to go for full blown leak search here and stuff, because I mean that's where we're leaning at. You can see the coil down below there. It looks like crap, but I didn't pick up any leaks on that. So let's go ahead and get tapped onto this thing and find out where we're at. We went ahead and got the coil back in there with the cover on, so we got some airflow. You can see that we're running 23 below on our coil, which it's coming up a little bit, it's been running for a little bit. Our discharge gas, even before we go into that water coil, is not very hot. I mean it's hot, but it's not hot. We're only talking 3.3 ounces on this thing. So you can tell that we are running pretty low. The pressures usually, I should say the saturation temperatures are pretty equivalent to what you're used to seeing. So I would say, depending on what they want to do, we should probably add some nitrogen to it and verify that it is leaking the evaporator. I'm gonna see what they want to do before we go much further. I mean, we could add an ounce or two and it'd probably be just perfectly fine, but that doesn't fix the problem. So I went ahead and shut it off to see what my pressures were. Right at 73 pounds. I would have figured I would have picked up a leak. I think what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go and pull out the refrigerant, just weigh it back in, see how it acts after that. That's sometimes the easiest thing to do since you only hold three ounces. All right, so we went ahead and drained everything out. Still slight positive, very little of any. As usual, here's the reason why I can't stand my 555s because they never go back to zero once they go from one to another, which it's two pounds, I understand. Not a humongous deal. But what we're gonna do, we're gonna warm this bottle up because it's 30 degrees outside. We're gonna use our little weight scale here. We're gonna put it in there. We're gonna flip it upside down. We're gonna use that to invert it. And we're just going to weigh the refrigerant back in. So we could actually fill this bottle full or this bowl full of water if we wanted to, which I might, I don't know. Right now, we're gonna run some hot water on this thing. Bring that temperature up because she's cold. She's definitely cold, but we're only talking three freaking ounces. Gonna charge it in liquid. Just connect, hook my digital gauges back up once it's running, see where our pressures are at. I can guarantee you they're gonna be better than what they were. It's definitely running low. There's no reason for it to be that low. I did speak with them. They wanted to just go with the coil. I've had this before with this coil. So not a real surprise that it's leaking where it's leaking at. I mean, why was the, oh, that's high quality right there in it. Geez, look. Why is everything garbage nowadays? Nothing is good. Holy cow. Nothing is good. Yeah, she's warm now. Good deal. All right. All right, so I've been wanting to build a stand for it, but honestly, we're just gonna do this the simple method. So we went ahead and bled it up to the ball valve there. Let's invert this puppy. There we go. That'll hold her up just like that. Turn on our weight scale and we'll get her set up. I just did a Google. It comes out to 93.3 grams. We'll get it down here on the ground and get her started. All right, so let's go ahead and zero that thing out. I am not completely connected here. So we're gonna bleed. Knocked any air that was in there between that and the Schrader core. Back to grams. Let's go ahead and dump in 93. Look how quick and easy that is. Your own. And stop. So we even went over by just a touch, but that's gonna make up for my hoses going on and off. That's a minuscule amount. So let's go ahead and disconnect. Actually, we can go ahead and start it up that way. It sucks whatever's in that tube out of there. We don't lose anything more than we have to. So let's go ahead and turn this thing back on. Fan should come on. Give it a moment there. There goes the compressors. Picking on. Let our fan do our forward and backwards crap so that's gonna get any gunk out of it. But by flipping it back up, we'll go ahead and get that thing to drain back into the tube as much as possible. So it should be dropping. Yeah, hardly lost anything there. All right, so now we're running 33 pounds of pressure, which is equivalent to 11 degree evaporator. That's gonna rise a little bit once it starts to stabilize, which further confirms that it was low on refrigerant. This little scale here, you can get on Amazon. I used that for my food scale when I was losing my weight and my user and everything I ate, so that's cheap. It's in my parts description, which guys down in my description area of the thing, I've got three different tool bags or four different tool bags, plus my Patreon. If you guys wanna see everything that you see here, all put in one area so you can find it. It's in there and you pay the same rate through Amazon and I get a small percentage of what you guys buy. It helps support the channel without having to actually spend any money out of your pocket. We're running a 20 degree evaporator so far, which is beautiful compared to what it was. That's the first time I tried it like that, to be honest with you. You know, it's going to boil off into a vapor. It's not like you're slugging the compressor. You're talking three measly flip analysis. So I think a lot of people make this a little more complicated than what it needs to be. Not that that means you should not take precautions and everything and you need to read through the manual and take the training on it to use the proper procedures and stuff. This is not obviously the absolute buy the book way. They want discharge and head pressure both. But since this thing wasn't running into a negative, I wasn't too worried about the compressor screwing up the oil and contaminating it causing it to cause a capillary tube restriction. You can see right here, we're already at 18 degree of app. Our temperature is still about 54. So let's go ahead and let this thing run for a little bit longer. We may rescan it. Now they're gonna have a little more pressure in it. And guys, don't focus on pressure. Pressure doesn't matter. Pressure is an arbitrary number all dictated by temperature. So get that out of your head, focus always on saturation temperatures. So we're gonna let this run for a little bit and see what we got. Since they're going to go with a new coil, I'm going to leave that port on there for now. You guys probably seen other people do it. I know Chris has done it before. What I usually do is I like this one here cause it's easy to re-round it. I pinch it, cut it, make sure there's no leaks. Put a already swedged quarter inch fitting on there. Undo it, re-round it, do my thing, pinch it back off, re-braze it. You're good to go. Shouldn't have to do a whole lot of anything. I like that a little bit better than the saddle taps that are usually garbage. All right, so what we're doing is we're checking our discharge temperature and we're checking our liquid temperature right there. And so discharge temperature is 117 and our liquid temperature is right around 79. So that kind of tells us we're getting a little closer to where you would figure. It is a very efficient refrigerant so it doesn't want to be near as hot. The differential between the two of them is 38 degrees. So that's how much our condenser is convincing it. So these are things that you should do while you're learning these new types of machines, guys, that are new out there. You can start taking notes of what your normal pressures are, what your normal temperature, what's the ambient temperature when you're doing it, what's the normal liquid temperature, what's your normal hot gas temperature for the unit you're working on. If you do all those things, you'll have something to reference. So when you go back on one that's not working and then that'll give you a place to start. So these are all things that you can use to help better yourself. I mean, just little dumb tricks like this. I mean, I just kind of pulled this out of my butt and it's not rocket science. You need to invert it. Do I need a fancy stand? Hell no. Freakin' bucket works. And it fit on there perfect. So as you can tell, we're at 36 degrees. It's only been probably maybe 10 minutes if you're lucky. And we're looking pretty. So basically the moral of this job here is it was low on charge. We have a leaking evaporator. You can go off the signs and see that with the oil over the coil and then the pan. You know, there's no oil gonna be in just one spot of the pan if it's not leaking. I mean, it's something from the food. It's gonna be all over. And so that's about it on that one there. And look at that, boom, she just shut off. 36 is where it went to. Supposed to be a three degree above and three degree below. And I think, yeah, it's set for 36, which, yeah. So 37, 38, 39, so come on at 39. Yeah, it's kind of, it's got 35 in since they're gonna be funny. That should be better than what it was. So, yeah, there you go. Well, let's go ahead and scan it again and see what we find. Maybe they'll find something on this. All right, so you know me, I can't give up. Unless I know certainly what I'm gonna do is gonna be the real repair. So we come into here, arrow it down. It's kind of cool because look, it's slowly variable even though it's electronic all the way up, a little bit down. Just a little bit down and a little further down. Kind of cool. Yeah, we got all the way up. So let's go ahead and try to, just as a work, we see a little bit of a crack on the painter. This is the same place it leaked last time. A little higher. I'll see them on one just above it. We are at 75 pounds of pressure. It probably helped a little bit. So we'll go ahead and get that off there and kind of a little bit there. More than I want to lose, but like I said, we're coming back and when we do that final one, I usually like to disconnect when I have the little hose on it or while it's running. That way you lose the least amount because as you've seen, it just doesn't hold a whole lot at all. We're gonna go out there and grab that soap and just spray it for giggles to see if we can visually see it on top of everything else. To see much of anything. Yeah, it's not on the solder joint because the solder joint kind of is right here to the left. Right there in the center. So it's leaking between the metal and that. And that's just so thin it's not worth jacking with. Might even have a little bit there. It's hard to say if that's just accumulation or what. Kind of looks like a little bit there too. So I mean, if it happened on one there's a good chance of tapping it on others. Yeah. But it's not on the main solder joints. So there you go, another R290 leak. Don't know if this refrigerant is possibly eating the coil up or what exactly the story is or it's just they're trying to make it so thin that it's not lasting. It's hard to say. I mean, there's nobody that really stands out as being better than the other. So go ahead and get our freaking insulation plate back up there so it doesn't end up dripping all over the place. There we go. So anyhow, guys, that's gonna wrap this one up. If you liked the video, you know what to do. Leave a little love down in the comments section. Don't forget to check out the links like I was mentioning earlier. And until next time, we will catch you on the next one.